From what i remember, after the wax molds are attached on the main center sprue, the investment material is poured into the entire mold and allowed to dry. When it is dried sufficiently, the entire mold is put into a furnace which melts away the wax inside leaving a negative cavity. The molten metal is then poured into the sprue (down sprue-down gate) which fills the cavity left by the evaporated wax patterns. In centrifugal casting it is advisable to have vents so gasses and excess metal will have an escape route and not leave an air pocket which could cause a small bubble on the finished casting. After the casting cools down, the mold is separated from itself and the investment material is broken or washed away from the castings which are then cut off of the center sprue as well as any vents where metal went up inside of. After that, the castings are rough sanded or wire brushed and all ground parts are smoothed before polishing or sending for plating. A bit abbreviated but one can probably understand the process somewhat!
You can not make a copy from the original the cast copy will always be smaller. The silicon wax and metal all shrink 2 to 3% total combined. But your process is spot on. Apart from the fact you use the original part.
Wow man, thanks for showing this. I make Silver Jewellery and i know of this process but have not seen it. I just make something, whatever comes to mind, out of wax. Then I send it off to a place and 3 days later the Wax thing is Sterling Silver. I usually make rings, trinkets like Charms, Pendants, etc... Whatever inspires me, I grab the wax and begin carving, Then when I have a few items ready to rock & roll, I package them up and send them off to the Metal place and I can have them made from Sterling Silver, Gold, Platinum, Chrome, brass, Copper, zinc, whatever. So I imagine that you are using maybe aluminium of zinc and you have sent these off to be chrome plated. BTW, they turned out awesome, You are a master of your craft. This is NOT by any means easy, It takes a LOT of patience, time, practice, and goofs. So a Smart Man makes 10x just to be safe, even though only 2 are probably required, the original can be "archived" and the replicas can be put on the car. I am interested in knowing why you didn't use the 2 casting nodes on the back of the badge, Maybe this doesn't suit your technique but it's clear how the factory did it. I am subscribing to you man, I love this stuff. Currently experimenting with using 1.75mm wax on a spindle, into a 3D printer. If I can nut this one out, I will be able to create some truly impossible shapes, like a ball in a cube, etc....
@@rogerd4559 The ring with the wax pattern at 1:12 get investment (high temp plaster) poured into it, let it get hard, and throws it in a oven, burns out all the wax and that your negative.
Around the blue wax piece is packed sand, the blue wax pieces are heated and melted out of the sand making a mould in the sand into which the molten metal is poured.
You didn't show what/how you packed around the wax. In 8th grade metal shop we had some sort of fine black sand and had to pack it around the item. Have no clue how you would pack it around that tree thing you made.
no, investment, similar to plaster but won't burn, and dries water vapour free so you don't get explosions....he also vacuums it to remove air bubbles because those would create voids in the castings and could trap air in the investment and that could cause an explosion as well.... Google "casting investment" and you'll see what it is....
you're right. It's just that you would have to want to go through al this work, and buy the stuff you need, because how it's done is al to see here on youtube, and no skills or talent is needed for this. It's cool alright, because not many people want to go through all this, so he makes a few people happy alright, but at a price, because i'm sure he doesn't give them away for free.
its crazy what hobbies people have. i was just thinking of doing a vw badge as i did a metal cast in HS. funny how this popped up. Seems a lot of work but glad your passionate about it and u seem to it very careful and professionally.
Did I miss something? He had wax emblems and then poured metal? Where's the packing sand? Either way, that's some crazy skill buddy. I love watching people being creative and using ingenuity
Wow really good to see the time consuming process in copying rare metal work. I initially thought you was going to grind it from a piece of steel or something lol. Well done you have opened my eyes to a really interesting way of doing this.
He uses the lostwax casting (or cire perdue) process, -- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting. Anyways he is very good at his job, is very dificult to get good cuality models ath the end.
Wait! Did I miss something? Kind of a waste watching parts one and two. It looks like you poured molten metal onto wax and magically got the end result. I watched because I thought you we going to demonstrate how this was done.
I think he put the wax emblems on the stands, then he put them in a container and filled it with plaster. I could be wrong, but I kind of think that's a simplified version of it.
"Who would dare to separate a Marlboro man from his truck", (see 1st part of 1st video for reference). Great work, thanks for showing us how to do a pro job!!
We used that blue stuff in a food machinery plant. It came into contact with the food because someone was too cheap to use the proper material. A few upset customers sent it back to the factory.
BEAUTIFUL WORK. There was a lot of detail in the beginning but toward the end I was hoping to actually see the Pour. Actually I was hoping to see this done in Bronze or Brass which will chrome plate better.How did you clean the parts? Bead blasting them. Very high quality work, I would love to know the amount time involved. Thanks for the Video, it was awesome!!!
Yes this process has a steep learning curve and quite a few pitfalls to get by to do it well but there is much info available (maybe materials less so) on the process. It just takes a little diligence and a high interest to learn it.
That was great.. (i've done a lot of silicon for plastic parts..) but you kinda lost me when all of a sudden you poured metal on it.. please do a voice-over or something like that.. I have looked at the comments and they all seem to say the same... Great video though, and we appreciate you posting it. but you left us hanging (just a little..) Thanks!
The Ceramic Coating of the Wax Mold seems to have been deliberately missed-out. And yet, this process is well-known, not a Trade Secret. The 'Lost Wax' Process of Investment Casting.
hmm, are you saying that the molten metal melted out the blue plastic or how did that work? you went from plastic or wax emblems on a stand to metal emblems on a stand? what level of Magic and Miracles classes do I have to graduate from to be able to perform these kinds of acts?
I have the same questions as everyone else --- how the heck did the wax poured into a rubber mold turn into something you could put into a furnace ??? what were the blue emblems made of ?
The waxes are invested into a material similar to plaster of Paris. Then the wax is burned out leaving a hollow cavity that the molten brass is poured into....
I enjoyed your video. It was not a complete how to video, but I gained enough information to learn something. I have now subscribed to your channel and please don't let the arm chair quarterbacks discourage you, I have yet to see there videos. Please keep up your site.
This is awesome! How do you avoid air pockets after pouring the metal into that? I feel like the metal would fill it in a way that it could not possible perfectly fill it without imperfections the way the tree appeared to be set up, but clearly yours turned out flawlessly so I was wondering how you managed to avoid air pockets when pouring the metal. Great work, has me thinking of all sorts of new ideas for possible low production methods of creating quality metal creations.
Bear with me here. I know nothing about this process, am not familiar with the terminology. (E.g. what does investment mean?) But you lost me after you had completed the tree of blue wax (?) emblems. How did you go from that to the same in metal? Isn't there a step or two missing in between? If you put that tree and pour metal around it, wouldn't you end up with a negative? But somehow you got another positive out of it. I'm confused.
There's a few different ways to do it but if you want the most detail you use plaster. You dip the wax tree in a thinner liquid plaster and build up a few coats. Then you put that into a container of plaster. Once it's dry you put it in a furnace and burn the wax out of it. That leaves a cavity for the molten metal. Once you pour the metal and let it cool you break off the plaster leaving the metal parts.
Schnorschel its a lost wax casting process. Make a duplicate of the item you want from wax. Pack casting sand tightly around the wax leaving whats called an ingate (also made from wax). Its somewhere for the molten metal to enter the form or flask (what you call the contraption holding the wax duplicate and sand). When you pour what I assume in this video is molten aluminum (which is going to be around 1300°F) the wax vaporizes and the metal fills the cavity. Its a pretty cool process. You can also use hard styrofoam (called lost foam casting) and achieve the same results. Foam is a bit tougher to get the same detail as wax but doesnt require as much effort or specialty tools such as the wax injector or vacuum pump/chamber. I cast emblems by making a form of them in casting sand then pouring the molten metal into the cavity left when you remove the emblem. So I dont use wax or foam. Get the same results but this method is better for producing multiple items at once. I can only do one or two at a time. Its a fun hobby and can actually make you some money if you can produce quality products. I started off building a smelter and just melting soda cans and misc. scrap copper and brass to take to the scrapyard. But for the same reason as this video I needed a new emblem for my old subaru and could not find one anywhere. So I watched a few videos to get an idea of what I needed to do to make my own and started practicing. Didnt take long before I could make quality reproductions of the emblem. Posted some pics on facebook in a few subaru groups and next thing you know I had about 100 people that wanted one. Sell em for $50 each so it pays for materials and puts some cash in my pocket. All for a hobby 😁 Watch some vids and if this interests you get into it. Just like anything else it just takes practice. Just be safe man. Molten metal can be dangerous. Good luck!!
I'm very impressed with your casting results! Being new to casting I'm curious about the vacuum on the investment. Does it just help to suck the metal into the mold? I'm assuming the metal cools enough before getting into the vacuum tube and melting it? Without using the vacuum, would the results not be nearly as nice? I'm also curious about the burn out stage of your process. I think you mentioned using a toaster oven in one video? Any tips on how hot and how long to get a good, clean investment? Lastly, do you pre heat your investment prior to your pour? Thanks in advance! I appreciate you showing your results here on RUclips
+Keven Carter I stopped using the toaster oven long ago, it worked ok for wax, but did not fully burn out the investment like it should for the use of vacuum assist casting. The investment is porous when fully burned out allowing vacuum to be drawn thru it. No molten metal leaves the block of investment (on a good day) The vacuum pulls the molten metal into the mold helping it fill completely which is especially helpful on thin castings and also improves surface finish. Once the investment is fully burned out it should not be allowed to drop below 260C otherwise it may fracture on you. I find using the 260c as a pouring temp gives me the best surface finish when I can get away with it, but really thin castings may require higher depending on the alloy. Shoot me an e mail at aonemarine@aol.com if you need some help with what you want to cast.
And so how do you get the final step for emblems (like the "XJS" for Jaguar) that have a mirror-like silver finish on them? I have tried all kinds of "silver" or "metallic" spray paints but still can't get that factory result.
Really good video thank you for sharing. I have to do exactly the same thing, I didnt see anywhere what metal you were using, Im told all the low melt point metals cant be chromed as the acids eat the tin and lead in thinks like pewter and diecast.
I cast them in 360 brass. it was preferred by my local plater as he could just buff and go right to nickel plate then chrome, without having to strike coat and copper coat.
aonemarine brilliant. I was hoping you would say that as my plater prefers brass also. I thought you might have been using Al and i didnt know how to get that plated. Sincere thanks to you for taking the time to make this video
With a home plating kit I've successfully copper struck, nickel and gold plated pewter, although I use lead-free pewter. Commercial plating might be a little different intensity but it can be done. Just saying...
Thank you, I am trying some pewter from melted mugs in the hope it is lead free, I will try plating it. might be easier than having to send out to get cast in brass as I dont have facilities for that temperature of metal.
@@aonemarine I would like to see it from the beginning if possible. Some of the point I would like to see, the draft angle on the lettering, the gates and risers design. Any idea of the material you will be casting, brass or aluminum. Thanks Chuck
@@charlesk8415 there is alot of different ways to go about making a plaque. One of the easiest would be to make up some 2d art in inkscape, then send it to villageimpressions.com to be turned into a rubber stamp. Why dont you join up on the forum and start a discussion of what you would like to do there. HT1 is a member there with alot of experience in making plaques. forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php
Gasgiant they are international emblems. Yes, people have been getting on me about cutting that part out, but all they have to do is watch a couple of my other vids to get the whole picture..
Clay was used to mould Silicone which was then used to make wax forms which were then applied to a tree and Finecasting sand was packed around them then BRASS was poured no alu, not poured in Clay...
I am lost ? How can you poor molten metal around wax impressions with out melting the wax that has to be at least 1200 degrees or more my brain is hurting trying to figure this out I wish you would of gone into more detail
The original ones were pot metal, but alot of chrome plate shops prefer plating to brass because they can skip the cyanide copper strike coat...so I did them in brass...
Wish you lived near by, been researching and wanting to do this for years, years I tell you. But I feel like I'm going to screw up my mold making rubber material and it isn't cheap.
Please do my friend. need to know how to use the vacuum assist cast. I need to cast some fire dept badges urgently. Thank a lot, cheers from the southland where the Spanish language is very fluent.
You lost me. did you just pour 800-degree metal on soft wax molds and not have them disintegrate? Those blue molds were just wax... right? Don't you have to make a sand casting first then pour the molten metal into the sand mold?
No, I burned out the wax same as I did in my other videos. Somewhere along the line my camera ate that part of the video. Thanks for the compliments on the vids, it's good to hear them rather than people telling me just to 3d scan and print them. If they only knew how much more work it is doing it that way....
I found the video of the T-Rex skull and the safe finials, that show the investment pour and burnout process. Very informative. Of all the casting videos that I've seen, I've never seen anybody de-gas with the vacuum chamber at each step like you do. I guess the results justify this. Thank you for sharing.
Blue Rider I can make them up. When it gets into organic shapes it gets a bit too challenging though. I have another video where i cad modeled it in Alibre and cnc machined the master. Have also done some domed topped enameled badges..
I'm in elkton MD. Molds (flasks) are at 600 F when the metal is poured into them. If the castings are really thin I'll heat the mold up more, and if the castings are thick the mold temp woul be lowered.
Fantastic! But THERE'S GOTTA be an Easier WAY! I havevA Ferrari,; Kids steal the Emblems! Couldn't One Use Like Dental Stone, or Plastic Resin...Press Emblem in...and have a Negative Mold...then Pour Resin in...Come up with Positive Emblem. Use Like Solder to make Emblem!?
How come you miss all the steps? I want to know how to do those 40s and 50s style badges and emblems that have what looks like anodised aluminium colors underneath glass
When I take on this type of work the client owns the mold and keeps it in their possession. But I will be more than happy to contact him for you and see if he has any left or wants to make a few more sets.
Hello, can you make a custom cast car emblem for me? It's a copy of an original emblem with one number changed. I can provide an original emblem to use as a starting point. If you can, we can discuss privately. Thanks.
@@aonemarine thanks man, it came out looking great, did you use plaster of Paris or investment? Or do you just stick the wax tree directly into the sand? I'm new to this and I really appreciate your help.
@@egyptianamericanpatriot1531 for the investment I use ransome and Randolph ultravest.. its mixed and poured around the trees. Join the forum. Thehomefoundry.org
@@aonemarine you are awesome. Thank you for your help and the great videos. You can make extra bucks selling your items online ebay, amazon, etzy, etc.
@thehomefoundry Would you be interested in doing some small parts like this for our classic car club? We are the largest forum in the world but there is a small group of us that need a few parts replicated for our speedometers that were made of pot metal causing them to stop working once the original pot metal swelled and broke itself! We are currently working on a 3D printable file but I think casting a new part is the way to go. Let me know if you are interested?
From what i remember, after the wax molds are attached on the main center sprue, the investment material is poured into the entire mold and allowed to dry. When it is dried sufficiently, the entire mold is put into a furnace which melts away the wax inside leaving a negative cavity. The molten metal is then poured into the sprue (down sprue-down gate) which fills the cavity left by the evaporated wax patterns. In centrifugal casting it is advisable to have vents so gasses and excess metal will have an escape route and not leave an air pocket which could cause a small bubble on the finished casting. After the casting cools down, the mold is separated from itself and the investment material is broken or washed away from the castings which are then cut off of the center sprue as well as any vents where metal went up inside of. After that, the castings are rough sanded or wire brushed and all ground parts are smoothed before polishing or sending for plating. A bit abbreviated but one can probably understand the process somewhat!
That's what I missed.
But what was the vacuum pump attached to during the pour?
Thank God there's craftsmen like you who can still make these parts.
And miss out on video 1.5
You can not make a copy from the original the cast copy will always be smaller. The silicon wax and metal all shrink 2 to 3% total combined. But your process is spot on. Apart from the fact you use the original part.
Wow man, thanks for showing this. I make Silver Jewellery and i know of this process but have not seen it.
I just make something, whatever comes to mind, out of wax. Then I send it off to a place and 3 days later the Wax thing is Sterling Silver.
I usually make rings, trinkets like Charms, Pendants, etc... Whatever inspires me, I grab the wax and begin carving, Then when I have a few items ready to rock & roll, I package them up and send them off to the Metal place and I can have them made from Sterling Silver, Gold, Platinum, Chrome, brass, Copper, zinc, whatever. So I imagine that you are using maybe aluminium of zinc and you have sent these off to be chrome plated.
BTW, they turned out awesome, You are a master of your craft. This is NOT by any means easy, It takes a LOT of patience, time, practice, and goofs. So a Smart Man makes 10x just to be safe, even though only 2 are probably required, the original can be "archived" and the replicas can be put on the car.
I am interested in knowing why you didn't use the 2 casting nodes on the back of the badge, Maybe this doesn't suit your technique but it's clear how the factory did it.
I am subscribing to you man, I love this stuff. Currently experimenting with using 1.75mm wax on a spindle, into a 3D printer. If I can nut this one out, I will be able to create some truly impossible shapes, like a ball in a cube, etc....
Did I miss something? You went from the wax to the pour, and missed out the mould making?
yes same here
Guess he doesn’t want anyone to copy his technique?
The wax model is "Burned out" in an oven at up to 1200 degrees, then you have a hollow negetive ready to cast
@@srrowell I know but I did see you make the negative
@@rogerd4559 The ring with the wax pattern at 1:12 get investment (high temp plaster) poured into it, let it get hard, and throws it in a oven, burns out all the wax and that your negative.
Around the blue wax piece is packed sand, the blue wax pieces are heated and melted out of the sand making a mould in the sand into which the molten metal is poured.
You didn't show what/how you packed around the wax. In 8th grade metal shop we had some sort of fine black sand and had to pack it around the item. Have no clue how you would pack it around that tree thing you made.
Tom Helsel. it's plaster?
no, investment, similar to plaster but won't burn, and dries water vapour free so you don't get explosions....he also vacuums it to remove air bubbles because those would create voids in the castings and could trap air in the investment and that could cause an explosion as well....
Google "casting investment" and you'll see what it is....
@@muskokamike127 The casting investment resembles Plaster of Paris and is used by Dentists.
That's pretty cool man got lots of talent keep it up
Fido Tru very talented, to reverse engineer like this
That's far from reverse engineering and literally required no talent.
you're right. It's just that you would have to want to go through al this work, and buy the stuff you need,
because how it's done is al to see here on youtube, and no skills or talent is needed for this.
It's cool alright, because not many people want to go through all this, so he makes a few people happy
alright, but at a price, because i'm sure he doesn't give them away for free.
derbigpr500 says a person who has never tried it...
@@aonemarine A talent is natural, what you've done here are acquired skills / knowledge.
WOW. great videos. a dyeing art of craftment. You are a talented man! lovely to watch your work
its crazy what hobbies people have. i was just thinking of doing a vw badge as i did a metal cast in HS. funny how this popped up. Seems a lot of work but glad your passionate about it and u seem to it very careful and professionally.
Did I miss something? He had wax emblems and then poured metal? Where's the packing sand? Either way, that's some crazy skill buddy. I love watching people being creative and using ingenuity
Thanks for posting. I love watching people share their talent and craft.
Wow really good to see the time consuming process in copying rare metal work. I initially thought you was going to grind it from a piece of steel or something lol. Well done you have opened my eyes to a really interesting way of doing this.
Thank you Ian.
Did I just have a stroke or something ... something seems to be missing. He went from wax to pour ... isnt there some sand or something ??
Nice work on part one and two. I stumbled on your videos, not specifically looking for the casting process. Almost finished product looks great!
Really informative video! Thanks for all that effort. I watched the first one too.
Great but i feel missed in the process. How do you go from blue pieces to metal???
He uses the lostwax casting (or cire perdue) process, -- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting. Anyways he is very good at his job, is very dificult to get good cuality models ath the end.
I'll do another video shortly
Great video. Consider me a subscriber.. 2 THUMBS UP 👍 👍
this guy is a grat skilled mold maker but a stupid ass when it comes to RUclips videos. Very misleading
@@rogerd4559 He reproduced an emblem. what did you expect? Nothing misleading.
Great video, nice to see there's still homegrown innovation out there!
Wait! Did I miss something? Kind of a waste watching parts one and two. It looks like you poured molten metal onto wax and magically got the end result. I watched because I thought you we going to demonstrate how this was done.
I think he put the wax emblems on the stands, then he put them in a container and filled it with plaster. I could be wrong, but I kind of think that's a simplified version of it.
This process is called Lost Wax Casting. Wikipedia reports the first know example is 6000 yrs ago.
The vid showed everything that I understand and left out the part that I don't so was / am unimpressed - nice end result but how did you get there....
Just subbed, GREAT work & TEDIOUS, must have nerves of steel & VERY steady hands
Great video and emblem reproduction, thank you!
This one got you a new subscriber.
Thanks!! Now I just need to get off my butt and do some more videos....
"Who would dare to separate a Marlboro man from his truck", (see 1st part of 1st video for reference). Great work, thanks for showing us how to do a pro job!!
We used that blue stuff in a food machinery plant. It came into contact with the food because someone was too cheap to use the proper material. A few upset customers sent it back to the factory.
BEAUTIFUL WORK. There was a lot of detail in the beginning but toward the end I was hoping to actually see the Pour. Actually I was hoping to see this done in Bronze or Brass which will chrome plate better.How did you clean the parts? Bead blasting them. Very high quality work, I would love to know the amount time involved. Thanks for the Video, it was awesome!!!
They were cast in brass.... cleaning was blasting with walnut shell..
And I did show the pour in the video...
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Yes this process has a steep learning curve and quite a few pitfalls to get by to do it well but there is much info available (maybe materials less so) on the process. It just takes a little diligence and a high interest to learn it.
Good job fella.
Nice video. Hope to see many more.
That was great.. (i've done a lot of silicon for plastic parts..) but you kinda lost me when all of a sudden you poured metal on it.. please do a voice-over or something like that.. I have looked at the comments and they all seem to say the same...
Great video though, and we appreciate you posting it. but you left us hanging (just a little..) Thanks!
The Ceramic Coating of the Wax Mold seems to have been deliberately missed-out. And yet, this process is well-known, not a Trade Secret. The 'Lost Wax' Process of Investment Casting.
Maybe it was just too boring to put in the video, and its not difficult to figure out.
Seriously what's with the conspiracy theory?
Great job good tutorial video, land Rover 110" wheelbase badges
hmm, are you saying that the molten metal melted out the blue plastic or how did that work? you went from plastic or wax emblems on a stand to metal emblems on a stand? what level of Magic and Miracles classes do I have to graduate from to be able to perform these kinds of acts?
The blue wax is melted out in a kiln..
The same way gold dental crowns are make but this is on a much bigger scale.
I have the same questions as everyone else --- how the heck did the wax poured into a rubber mold turn into something you could put into a furnace ??? what were the blue emblems made of ?
The waxes are invested into a material similar to plaster of Paris. Then the wax is burned out leaving a hollow cavity that the molten brass is poured into....
I enjoyed your video. It was not a complete how to video, but I gained enough information to learn something. I have now subscribed to your channel and please don't let the arm chair quarterbacks discourage you, I have yet to see there videos. Please keep up your site.
This is awesome! How do you avoid air pockets after pouring the metal into that? I feel like the metal would fill it in a way that it could not possible perfectly fill it without imperfections the way the tree appeared to be set up, but clearly yours turned out flawlessly so I was wondering how you managed to avoid air pockets when pouring the metal.
Great work, has me thinking of all sorts of new ideas for possible low production methods of creating quality metal creations.
The flask is having a vacuum pulled on it from the flange down which sucks the air out and the metal in...
Terrific work.
Bear with me here. I know nothing about this process, am not familiar with the terminology. (E.g. what does investment mean?)
But you lost me after you had completed the tree of blue wax (?) emblems. How did you go from that to the same in metal? Isn't there a step or two missing in between? If you put that tree and pour metal around it, wouldn't you end up with a negative? But somehow you got another positive out of it. I'm confused.
There's a few different ways to do it but if you want the most detail you use plaster. You dip the wax tree in a thinner liquid plaster and build up a few coats. Then you put that into a container of plaster. Once it's dry you put it in a furnace and burn the wax out of it. That leaves a cavity for the molten metal. Once you pour the metal and let it cool you break off the plaster leaving the metal parts.
XC2long4u Interesting. Thanks for the explanation.
the plastic melts, and the metal fills in the cavity...
Schnorschel its a lost wax casting process. Make a duplicate of the item you want from wax. Pack casting sand tightly around the wax leaving whats called an ingate (also made from wax). Its somewhere for the molten metal to enter the form or flask (what you call the contraption holding the wax duplicate and sand). When you pour what I assume in this video is molten aluminum (which is going to be around 1300°F) the wax vaporizes and the metal fills the cavity. Its a pretty cool process. You can also use hard styrofoam (called lost foam casting) and achieve the same results. Foam is a bit tougher to get the same detail as wax but doesnt require as much effort or specialty tools such as the wax injector or vacuum pump/chamber. I cast emblems by making a form of them in casting sand then pouring the molten metal into the cavity left when you remove the emblem. So I dont use wax or foam. Get the same results but this method is better for producing multiple items at once. I can only do one or two at a time. Its a fun hobby and can actually make you some money if you can produce quality products. I started off building a smelter and just melting soda cans and misc. scrap copper and brass to take to the scrapyard. But for the same reason as this video I needed a new emblem for my old subaru and could not find one anywhere. So I watched a few videos to get an idea of what I needed to do to make my own and started practicing. Didnt take long before I could make quality reproductions of the emblem. Posted some pics on facebook in a few subaru groups and next thing you know I had about 100 people that wanted one. Sell em for $50 each so it pays for materials and puts some cash in my pocket. All for a hobby 😁
Watch some vids and if this interests you get into it. Just like anything else it just takes practice. Just be safe man. Molten metal can be dangerous. Good luck!!
actually this one is done using plaster. Much finer detail than sand. Also he cast them in brass, not aluminum.
I'm very impressed with your casting results! Being new to casting I'm curious about the vacuum on the investment. Does it just help to suck the metal into the mold? I'm assuming the metal cools enough before getting into the vacuum tube and melting it? Without using the vacuum, would the results not be nearly as nice? I'm also curious about the burn out stage of your process. I think you mentioned using a toaster oven in one video? Any tips on how hot and how long to get a good, clean investment? Lastly, do you pre heat your investment prior to your pour? Thanks in advance! I appreciate you showing your results here on RUclips
+Keven Carter
I stopped using the toaster oven long ago, it worked ok for wax, but did not fully burn out the investment like it should for the use of vacuum assist casting. The investment is porous when fully burned out allowing vacuum to be drawn thru it. No molten metal leaves the block of investment (on a good day) The vacuum pulls the molten metal into the mold helping it fill completely which is especially helpful on thin castings and also improves surface finish. Once the investment is fully burned out it should not be allowed to drop below 260C otherwise it may fracture on you. I find using the 260c as a pouring temp gives me the best surface finish when I can get away with it, but really thin castings may require higher depending on the alloy.
Shoot me an e mail at aonemarine@aol.com if you need some help with what you want to cast.
Love it; nice job!
And so how do you get the final step for emblems (like the "XJS" for Jaguar) that have a mirror-like silver finish on them? I have tried all kinds of "silver" or "metallic" spray paints but still can't get that factory result.
plating, same as he will do on this pieces. ill search his vids now for final resoult
Really good video thank you for sharing. I have to do exactly the same thing, I didnt see anywhere what metal you were using, Im told all the low melt point metals cant be chromed as the acids eat the tin and lead in thinks like pewter and diecast.
I cast them in 360 brass. it was preferred by my local plater as he could just buff and go right to nickel plate then chrome, without having to strike coat and copper coat.
aonemarine brilliant. I was hoping you would say that as my plater prefers brass also. I thought you might have been using Al and i didnt know how to get that plated. Sincere thanks to you for taking the time to make this video
With a home plating kit I've successfully copper struck, nickel and gold plated pewter, although I use lead-free pewter. Commercial plating might be a little different intensity but it can be done. Just saying...
Thank you, I am trying some pewter from melted mugs in the hope it is lead free, I will try plating it. might be easier than having to send out to get cast in brass as I dont have facilities for that temperature of metal.
I have one also, with the chromatic acid. Its just not something I wish to do for others. Ill just stick with the casting..
Where is the making of the casting molds? That's another 1/3 of the process.
Thanks MASTER THANKS AGAIN
It takes years to develop
These skills
Keep up the great work
Foundry man
From muellermold maker
Some time in the future could you do a video on making a plaque.
Supposed to have a plaque being sent to me to cast. But I would think you would want to see one from scratch, as in making the pattern and all???
@@aonemarine I would like to see it from the beginning if possible. Some of the point I would like to see, the draft angle on the lettering, the gates and risers design. Any idea of the material you will be casting, brass or aluminum. Thanks Chuck
@@charlesk8415 there is alot of different ways to go about making a plaque. One of the easiest would be to make up some 2d art in inkscape, then send it to villageimpressions.com to be turned into a rubber stamp.
Why dont you join up on the forum and start a discussion of what you would like to do there. HT1 is a member there with alot of experience in making plaques.
forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php
Excellent videos, thank you.
A lot of work, but sounds like nowdays, five years later, 3-D copying has made all that a lot of obsolete, unnecessary hard work.
Just commented that on video #1. First thing that came to mind when I saw it.
Does the casting coat the plastic molds ? Why does it not melt them ?
The positives are made of wax. They melt away when the hot metal hits them
Great tutorial but to show the sand/mold stage would be great! Some viewers are a little confused! Are they off a Land Rover 110 series?
Gasgiant they are international emblems. Yes, people have been getting on me about cutting that part out, but all they have to do is watch a couple of my other vids to get the whole picture..
Those look great!
Thank you :)
I would rather just pay to have them made. Where to reach out to ?
That's pretty Kool nice job but I'm shocked that when you pour hot molten aluminum into the cast why does the clay not melt?Thanks for Video!
Clay was used to mould Silicone which was then used to make wax forms which were then applied to a tree and Finecasting sand was packed around them then BRASS was poured no alu, not poured in Clay...
hello could you help me create an emblem for my car
Maybe later on this year. Just too busy right now..
I am lost ? How can you poor molten metal around wax impressions with out melting the wax that has to be at least 1200 degrees or more my brain is hurting trying to figure this out I wish you would of gone into more detail
Where the originals made that nice, I thought most emblems were pot metal?
The original ones were pot metal, but alot of chrome plate shops prefer plating to brass because they can skip the cyanide copper strike coat...so I did them in brass...
@@aonemarine They are a heck of a lot nicer in brass, and they will outlast the truck.
Do you work with cast iron?
Do you have a website?
Thanks
That's amazing man! Was that aluminum?
360 brass
I should start making some back uo emblems for my 1984 Nissan Junior
Very interesting
the guy just needed two so do you sell the rest
He did..
i need the same thing for my Vespa emblem. 10 would work. could I hire you to make me 10 of them?? about same size as yours.
How did you make the mold around the wax to pour the metal into? You lost me.
Wish you lived near by, been researching and wanting to do this for years, years I tell you. But I feel like I'm going to screw up my mold making rubber material and it isn't cheap.
Wooley689 im in Delaware.
Why are you afraid you would screw it up?
Awesome work!
Excellent work!! Sorry you do not speak Spanish, you must say very interesting things!
Can you do that with aluminum emblems?
forgive me if you have already done so, but you should make a video just explaining what all the tools are that you use
ok, ive been thinking about it for some time now. guess i better get off my butt and do it...
Please do my friend. need to know how to use the vacuum assist cast. I need to cast some fire dept badges urgently. Thank a lot, cheers from the southland where the Spanish language is very fluent.
Great video!
You lost me. did you just pour 800-degree metal on soft wax molds and not have them disintegrate? Those blue molds were just wax... right?
Don't you have to make a sand casting first then pour the molten metal into the sand mold?
No, I burned out the wax same as I did in my other videos.
Somewhere along the line my camera ate that part of the video.
Thanks for the compliments on the vids, it's good to hear them rather than people telling me just to 3d scan and print them.
If they only knew how much more work it is doing it that way....
Awesome job!!
Great video! I just subscribed looking forward in learning more on home foundry.
What was the material poured around the wax?
This is certainly not for the regular Joe!!
would the silicone stand up to the casting heat if i'd only want to make one copy so i could skip the wax and plaster part alltogheter?
TheEvanovitch not at all...
shame, ah well, thanks for replying :)
fascinating stuff!
Do you have a video showing the sand or porcelain investment? Do you use a slurry, then gradually increase the course of sand?
Craig Blume the investment used was ransome and randolph ultra vest w/o fg.
hope this helps...
I found the video of the T-Rex skull and the safe finials, that show the investment pour and burnout process. Very informative. Of all the casting videos that I've seen, I've never seen anybody de-gas with the vacuum chamber at each step like you do. I guess the results justify this. Thank you for sharing.
Craig Blume. That is the textbook way to do it, but you better work fast. The investment sets up pretty quick.
Dam men you r a genius. Can you make up an emblem or you have to have a 3d object to do it?
Blue Rider
I can make them up. When it gets into organic shapes it gets a bit too challenging though.
I have another video where i cad modeled it in Alibre and cnc machined the master. Have also done some domed topped enameled badges..
Did we miss the thermal coat?
What type of metal did you use?
Professional nice work
glues4wood
Thanks!!
I want 2 of the L-110 series emblems please message me back.
are you in baltimer. Do you preheat your molds?
I'm in elkton MD.
Molds (flasks) are at 600 F when the metal is poured into them. If the castings are really thin I'll heat the mold up more, and if the castings are thick the mold temp woul be lowered.
Cool
Good skills thxs for sharing
Sand molding and Wood box... less investiment ... I think Your way come out two expansive process!!!!!
Fantastic! But THERE'S GOTTA be an Easier WAY!
I havevA Ferrari,; Kids steal the Emblems! Couldn't One Use Like Dental Stone, or Plastic Resin...Press Emblem in...and have a Negative Mold...then Pour Resin in...Come up with Positive Emblem. Use Like Solder to make Emblem!?
Looking for a set of these emblems for a 52. Does anyone have any connections?
Had a hard time finding
Was wondering if you could make me an emblem ? I need a batch of them but I want them made in plastic
send me some more information. aonemarine@aol.com
U a genious man
Casting a good business to be in?
What metal did you use?
360 brass
How come you miss all the steps? I want to know how to do those 40s and 50s style badges and emblems that have what looks like anodised aluminium colors underneath glass
Platers gonna plate
Any chance you still have a couple of those? I have some originals, but it'd be nice to have a couple nice shiny new ones for my restoration project!
When I take on this type of work the client owns the mold and keeps it in their possession. But I will be more than happy to contact him for you and see if he has any left or wants to make a few more sets.
That would be awesome! Thanks!
He still has a couple. How can I send you his contact info? I dont want to post it here.
Paul Fujan got it..
aonemarine thank you!
Hello, can you make a custom cast car emblem for me? It's a copy of an original emblem with one number changed. I can provide an original emblem to use as a starting point. If you can, we can discuss privately. Thanks.
shoot me an e mail and picture. aonemarine at aol dot com
Will do, thank you!
What metal did you use? Thanks in advance
360 yellow brass
@@aonemarine thanks man, it came out looking great, did you use plaster of Paris or investment? Or do you just stick the wax tree directly into the sand? I'm new to this and I really appreciate your help.
@@egyptianamericanpatriot1531 for the investment I use ransome and Randolph ultravest.. its mixed and poured around the trees. Join the forum.
Thehomefoundry.org
@@aonemarine you are awesome. Thank you for your help and the great videos. You can make extra bucks selling your items online ebay, amazon, etzy, etc.
@thehomefoundry Would you be interested in doing some small parts like this for our classic car club? We are the largest forum in the world but there is a small group of us that need a few parts replicated for our speedometers that were made of pot metal causing them to stop working once the original pot metal swelled and broke itself! We are currently working on a 3D printable file but I think casting a new part is the way to go. Let me know if you are interested?
You would need to give me a bit more information before I committed myself.
Thehomefoundry@aol.com
thehomefoundry thanks for the reply, I’ll email you some details and pictures in the morning!