Making a Toolpost Grinder Part 12: Toolpost Clamp 1
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- This is part 12 of the toolpost grinder build series.
Last time, we completed the motor clamp and assembled the motor to the spindle. In this video , we start work on the toolpost clamp, roughing and finishing the dovetail to fit the toolpost.
If you haven't seen the previous videos, a playlist with all of the parts of this project is here: • Making a Toolpost Grinder
If you're following along with the build, here are some links to some of the tools used in the video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
2.5" Carbide Face Mill (Amazon*): amzn.to/2Bo1VXk
HFS 190-Piece (0.061-0.250") Gage Pin Set Minus (Amazon*): amzn.to/2DDSAf3
Shars 81 piece gauge block set (eBay*): goo.gl/DGtbHE
YG-1 Tank-Power 3/8" powdered metal roughing end mill (eBay*): goo.gl/4QmiZi
YG-1 4-Flute Carbide 1/4" end mill (eBay*): goo.gl/1dLomn
Definitely enjoying these James. I used to work for a company making industrial stepper drives so those sounds bring back a lot of memories!
Nice video as usual. Thanks for not editing out the mishap!
kerboom. Fun times. Good outcome
At the end of this video James mentions the measurement for the dovetail for a wedge style QC holder should actually be measured from the registration surface (top as he machined his) and not the bottom of the dovetail. If you plan to make more than one tool holder it would be well worth making 2 modified versions of the corner finder that James used to locate the material when it stood in the vise at 45-deg. Instead of the 90-deg. cutout, the dovetail corner finders need to have cutouts to match the dovetail angle, I think it is 60-deg. for James' QC post. The angle needs to match whatever you have. Use is just like the dowel method but with the corner finders resting on the registration face and the inside of the dovetail instead of the bottom and the inside of the dovetail. Then the measurement between the round corner finders on your new tool holders just needs to match a good existing tool holder.
Even with a manual mill with conventional leadscrews, depth of cut on a dovetail (just like cutting threads on a bolt) is increasing the amount of material removed with each successive pass if you use the same depth of cut. Therefore, depth of cut must be reduced on each pass to keep the chip load (volume of metal removed) consistent. Best of luck to all!
I'm a new finder of your EXCELLENT chanel. I'm a sparky by trade, but have a very keen interest in engineering. So my not so naive question is, with the dovetail cuts, is there a reason you drove into the cut rather than out of the cuts? Would have thought that with CNC ability you could have done that. But I'm not an engineer so just wondering. Love your content as it is mentioned by you "This is how I did it, rather than look what I made". Fantastic content. Even a simpleton like me can understand what you are putting forward. Thanks from a simpleton :-)
Cheers
Pete'.
I would never climb mill with a dovetail cutter - even on my Bridgeport. I could hear the cutter pulling the x-axis towards it. I was shouting "James - press the mushroom!"
Yeah...good advice. There isn't really any backlash in the axes, so it's probably all flex. I started with the climb cuts because they were running quieter, but obviously with the depth of cut I attempted there, it wasn't good.
PS - I can also recommend the Randy Richards style dovetail cutters too. ruclips.net/video/tWKG20EEcLE/видео.html
Yeah, I considered those. I have serious doubts about being able to swing something like that in my little mill, though. It might be worth trying to make one with a TTS face register.
Am i missing something here, I thought climb milling was okay with ball screws even in a manual machine. the problem with climb milling in a manual machine with ball screws is the table will want to feed itself which shouldn’t be a problem with steppers. I set my cnc cam to always climb mill. i’m not a machinist, so i may be wrong here.
That's my understanding as well, though I do note that there are times when G-Wizard recommends conventional milling, depending on the circumstances.
Although you lost wieght(from more recent videos) i notice you always put your drawbar air wrench on the floor, why not use a simple S hook and chain to length and hang it to hand from the end of the curtain rail, or is that the secret of the wieght loss? bending down 50 times a video 😂😉 iM going slowly through all your videos, nice.