Hey Matt! Thanks for the Flitz love!! 👍👍👀 Much appreciated! Although technically "non-abrasive", our paste polish comes in at approx. 4000 grit. For musical instruments, we usually recommend our liquid polish which comes in at approx. 6000 grit. We also make a spray-on, rinse-off tarnish remover that may make your job little easier. I'll give you a call to get some samples sent your way. Thanks again!!
Couldn't find your normal polishing routine....bad link...oops found..but it wasn'ta RUclipslink. It was text instructions! Do i even know how to read step by step instructions anymore!?!. Cheers, thanks for the content. I stopped playing 30yrs ago, but my son has decided to start, so I need to tidy up my old silver mk6 tenor. Btw, how lucky is that kid, learning on a mk6? I was ten years in and a pro before I had it.
Great result for sure!! But I wonder what will happen if it's getting used for playing again. Zilver or metal tends to react with human touch...resulting in a black or dull sax. Is it going to get a new clear coat or do you leave it 'as is'? I'm on the verge to overhaul a Conn Shooting Stars 14M, a Mexico produced alto sax from 1970. Would polishing this sax be possible or does it also have a clearcoat ( which I think.. ) so it's better not to polish?
Hello Matt, you may have a really old Flitz tube. My year old product is listed as. Non-abrasive, non-toxic, non-flammable, acid free and won’t dry out. Between Keyes I flush the brush in cup of water and dry. I use 4”x4” Webril Wipes for wipe / polishing. Changing often. The label says no residue. I still rinse everything afterwards. Without rinsing I find parts will fog with heat. The inside of the cup and wherever cork goes. I wipe with Q-tip & alcohol pre install.
Thanks. In desperation I used 0000 steel wool. Much time polishing out scratches. Any tips on maintaining or protecting the work. My Horne is a C Melody. It plays well but there is a problem with pitch. C# is flat, it drives my ear nuts. Well thanks again. Bill
I ~~love~~ Flitz. I especially love it for times when I want bare metal to get to a nice shine but in a situation where I would be reluctant to go to the buffer. I like it in playing condition situations with large spots of missing lacquer... I can get some flitz on a cloth and sort of "blend" the look of the bare brass into the color of the remaining lacquer. Discretion is the better part of valor here of course. I also recommend Flitz over Brasso to anyone who *insists* on polishing their own bare brass (old sousaphones, whatever). Brasso leaves these horrendous streaks and doesn't leave a fine polish, whereas Flitz, even if it doesn't bring the color back to yellow will still bring a nice wet look to bare brass without the scratches. I also have plenty of other polishing tools in my arsenal but Flitz fills an important all-around heavyweight role.
I was trying a bunch of things at the time but don’t think I tried mineral oil. It took several applications of flitz to polish a mouthpiece down to a nice black gloss, but it worked better than other polishes I had around like Wenol and similar. With the flitz you could tell right away it was working to cut the oxidation because there was a strong smell of sulfur.
The keys and rods etc need to be super clean before you can do key fitting well, I think. Especially if you're trying to keep swedging marks to a minimum. If I can clean the keys to my satisfaction and then do the fitting and then do the polishing, that is ideal, and that sometimes happens. On this horn though, there was no choice- the tarnish and corrosion had to come off first because they had physical thickness that would have caused damage to the finish if I had swedged over it.
Hey Matt! Thanks for the Flitz love!! 👍👍👀 Much appreciated! Although technically "non-abrasive", our paste polish comes in at approx. 4000 grit. For musical instruments, we usually recommend our liquid polish which comes in at approx. 6000 grit. We also make a spray-on, rinse-off tarnish remover that may make your job little easier. I'll give you a call to get some samples sent your way. Thanks again!!
Couldn't find your normal polishing routine....bad link...oops found..but it wasn'ta RUclipslink. It was text instructions! Do i even know how to read step by step instructions anymore!?!. Cheers, thanks for the content. I stopped playing 30yrs ago, but my son has decided to start, so I need to tidy up my old silver mk6 tenor. Btw, how lucky is that kid, learning on a mk6? I was ten years in and a pro before I had it.
Great result for sure!!
But I wonder what will happen if it's getting used for playing again. Zilver or metal tends to react with human touch...resulting in a black or dull sax.
Is it going to get a new clear coat or do you leave it 'as is'?
I'm on the verge to overhaul a Conn Shooting Stars 14M, a Mexico produced alto sax from 1970.
Would polishing this sax be possible or does it also have a clearcoat ( which I think.. ) so it's better not to polish?
Dude… game changer 🙏
👍 We hang on every word. Greetings from the UK.
Hello Matt, you may have a really old Flitz tube. My year old product is listed as. Non-abrasive, non-toxic, non-flammable, acid free and won’t dry out.
Between Keyes I flush the brush in cup of water and dry.
I use 4”x4” Webril Wipes for wipe / polishing. Changing often.
The label says no residue. I still rinse everything afterwards. Without rinsing I find parts will fog with heat.
The inside of the cup and wherever cork goes. I wipe with Q-tip & alcohol pre install.
Thanks. In desperation I used 0000 steel wool. Much time polishing out scratches. Any tips on maintaining or protecting the work. My Horne is a C Melody. It plays well but there is a problem with pitch. C# is flat, it drives my ear nuts. Well thanks again.
Bill
I ~~love~~ Flitz.
I especially love it for times when I want bare metal to get to a nice shine but in a situation where I would be reluctant to go to the buffer. I like it in playing condition situations with large spots of missing lacquer... I can get some flitz on a cloth and sort of "blend" the look of the bare brass into the color of the remaining lacquer. Discretion is the better part of valor here of course.
I also recommend Flitz over Brasso to anyone who *insists* on polishing their own bare brass (old sousaphones, whatever). Brasso leaves these horrendous streaks and doesn't leave a fine polish, whereas Flitz, even if it doesn't bring the color back to yellow will still bring a nice wet look to bare brass without the scratches.
I also have plenty of other polishing tools in my arsenal but Flitz fills an important all-around heavyweight role.
Flitz is also good for when you’ve got an old hard rubber mouthpiece that has oxidized badly. I would keep it off the tip and side rails, though.
Interesting! Haven't heard of that one. Have you tried mineral oil?
I was trying a bunch of things at the time but don’t think I tried mineral oil. It took several applications of flitz to polish a mouthpiece down to a nice black gloss, but it worked better than other polishes I had around like Wenol and similar. With the flitz you could tell right away it was working to cut the oxidation because there was a strong smell of sulfur.
Very good tip ! Thanks 👍
Would you use it for Yamahas from 80-90's or modern Jupiters?
@@lassisilventoinen2897 I don't have much experience with Jupiters, but yamahas have plating that is plenty thick.
Hey Matt, have you already done all the key fitting / mechanical stuff before you start cleaning up the keys?
The keys and rods etc need to be super clean before you can do key fitting well, I think. Especially if you're trying to keep swedging marks to a minimum. If I can clean the keys to my satisfaction and then do the fitting and then do the polishing, that is ideal, and that sometimes happens. On this horn though, there was no choice- the tarnish and corrosion had to come off first because they had physical thickness that would have caused damage to the finish if I had swedged over it.
Wow!