Just would like to say 🎉after buying your plans, several months ago, i have finally gotten it to the point that i can actually use it. Keep in mind I'm 75 years old and am not the best with computers but ihave watched your videos so many times that my screens are almost etched. Never thought i would own a CNC ,let alone build one. Your plans and videos are the best of anything i have experienced. Now to get a THC and tubing notcher add-ons. Thanks again .
If one wants to easily disable this device one could most likely wire in a double pole toggle switch into their cabinet and with the flip of a switch be back to wired mode.
I have the plans! I have a thermal dynamics cutmaster 151 but I thought I heard it will not work as it is a pilot arc. First is that correct and second will using the blue tooth connection get rid of the problem and make it feasible to use?
What a brilliant idea! I built my own plasma cutter and after months of chasing interference issues (it was the usb cable!) I decided to put a raspberry pi in the same case as the arduino with a really short usb cable, which works great, and I then use WiFi to access the pi in a headless mode. If only I had thought of this I could have save a couple hundred £!
Have you ever considered upgrading to something like a MKS DLC32? It's a low cost (~$15-20) ESP32 based cnc controller capable of running the Fluidnc, a grbl extension written for the ESP32. You can communicate with it over wifi or bluetooth and it has a micro sd card slot on board that you can use to store your g-code files. With this you could communicate with and control the machine from any bluetooth or wifi capable device without ever having to load any specialty software on to the device you're using.
@@danraymond1703This board can use either on-board or external stepper drivers. Those plugs are for on-board drivers, beside each of the plugs are 4 pins, these are for external drivers. The plugs are left empty when external drivers are used.
So, can I just use the Arduino UNO R4 WiFi [ABX00087] - Renesas RA4M1 / ESP32-S3 - Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, USB-C, CAN, DAC, OP AMP, Qwiic Connector, 12x8 LED MatrixArduino UNO R4 WiFi [ABX00087] - Renesas RA4M1 / ESP32-S3 - Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, USB-C, CAN, DAC, OP AMP, Qwiic Connector, 12x8 LED Matrix?
Great work, did the build, got problems with the relay, connected to NO and nothing, connect to NC, turn on the plasma cutter and it arcs up straight away no control, soturn off the plasma cutter. Relay is connected as per diagram, pin 11 on the UNO board for signal, so am at a loss as to where the problem might be.
Great information. Thanks for sharing. 👍 I am wondering if you removed the processor from the Arduino board if you wouldn't have to go through the reflashing process. I was able to program a XBEE HC-05 Bluetooth module via serial monitor by removing the processor. I didn't have to blank and reflash. Another benefit of going wireless is that there will be less EMI via the USB cable, especially if using an inexpensive imported plasma cutter.
GRBL controller shows "Unknown" in the connection area, and "machine not idle" if I try change position. All jog buttons etc are greyed out. I can move the machine via bluetooth by entering Gcode in the Gcode tab, but nothing else. Open to any suggestions ?
I did set up the Bluetooth conversion but just got to the point of getting it connected to the laptop and it did connect then disconnect every time so I did research and checked everything on the laptop and it seems to be functioning correctly. I even tried the PC and did the same thing. the laptop has other Bluetooth devices and they work fine and I do have 2 of theses HC06 dongles and both disconnect so it is not the devices. Just stuck for the moment with the wireless deal.
This is awesome - not completely through the playlist yet but is there a vid or documentation on getting initially setup with the software via cable? and flashing whatever needs to be flashed?
I made the connections and prior void flashing, according to the instruction, and the AT prompt simply does not get any reply. Does anybody have clue to that issue ?
hi. i have this bt module, but when i'm connected with bt the test code don’t run smoothly. if i connect via USB it is working perfect. has anyone experienced same problem?
I am having issues with this. The 3.3v doesn't seem to be sufficient power to BT module, however when I plug it into the 5v it works instantly. Not sure how to run this on 5v with the relay also using the 5v as per wiring diagram? Have successfully got the BT module working in BT connection only, but the conundrum is how to supply both as 3.3v not enough and I don't want an extra powerpoint/cable in my build.
same here. Am not able to establish connection with the BT module at all. The "AT" command does not get a response. Have tried your 5V trick, but doesn't get me anywhere 😞... Any idea you could share? Thanks
@@danygeorges631 Try each com port and do AT command, could be a different port? After BT setup complete, I ended up needing to still use COM4. Also I just had both feed from the 5v port and it works fine, not sure how this will be tunability wise. But the BT module now works.
Hello. Can i with my build insted use the Arduino Uno Rev4? Insted off the uno rev3. Since it has buildt in Wifi and Bluetooth? thank you so much. I can't wait to complete my build. Best regards
For anyone using a Windows 11 pc, in Bluetooth and Devices-devices, I had to change the Bluetooth devices discovery from default to advanced before I could see the device in the “add device” list
Thank you for posting this. I was able to connect with my laptop running Windows 10 so I knew that it was working, but my desktop running Windows 11 wouldn't discover it. Your advice solved my problem. Too bad there isn't a way to post this so that it stays on top.
Great video! Thanks! I just bought your files to bild my own plasma cutter so this came really handy. One thing though, never plug the Arduino to the charger before you plug it in to the wall. It´s easy to fry it when you do that. Seen it on computers, Arduinos, ... Just a tip. Love this channel! /Jesper (Sweden).
Thanks, Jackson, I've been wondering about doing this for my build. The shield I'm using doesn't show rx/tx broken out so I have a message in to the maker. If his board doesn't make them available I'll switch to a different breakout shield. I have a question about the GRBL setting for max X/Y at 1000mm, which is about 40 inches? The table is a little smaller. 😁 I also didn't know you could power the HC05/6 with 3.3V. I've always used a voltage divider on the rx/tx lines. Thanks for more great info on this build!
1000mm is the default setting on GRBL. Table dimensions don't actually mean anything if you don't have soft limits on (we do not) so no reason to change it. You don't actually need the voltage divider is you use the 3.3V supply over the 5V supply
Thanks, that's good to know about the soft limits. I guess if you design and cut the parts you know how big they are and can cut accordingly. The HCo5/6 say 3.6V to 6V so I never tried to use one on 3.3V. I sure will now. Thanks for the info!
I tried both DSD Tech HC-06 and HM-19 modules. They program just fine but neither my PC or my iPhone will recognize them when I do a bluetooth search. I have an Android tablet that recognizes both modules. Any ideas?
Im having similar problems as well. I had the HC-06 work for a couple hours then it quit working! Computer doesnt see it but my phone does. I tried another HC-06 and same problem... I may try a HM-10 next.
Hey Jackson, thanks for all the videos and the plans, i am building it and so far everything fits perfectly. I decided to use the bluetooth connection, however I'm not sure whether it would be the best option for me. I purchased my plasma cutter before seeing your project and my cutter is high frequency. Do you think bluetooth is more vulnerable to EMI than usb cable or is it the other way around? Any advice is appreciated. I have installed everything in aluminum box but still able to establish bt connection.
Hello Peter, I am in a similar situation. no pilot plasma cutter, bought before thinking about making a CNC (every pilot plasma I see on sale on the net are said to have HF ignition as well, anyway does it change anyhing to the noise, to have a pilot or not pilot ignition ?) I have serious EMI issues too. I have no bluetooth module yet, but I am thining about buying one. Did you try it, is it working ?
Also, i may prefer to ask again to be sure I understand you well, you say the bluetooth communication can pass through the aluminium box, really ? is this box grounded ? that would be awesome
Hello, Do you have an update for Arduino Ide 2.0 ? I hit a wall , I send AT. It returns ok. Then I try the AT+NAMEplasma and it is stuck. Any ideas? Thanks
I had to try different things for 3 weeks before I was able to make it work. It turns out there are different versions of the BT module which use slightly different versions of commands. Also some will disregard the command if it takes too long to type, so i had to copy and paste
FYI i got a Umidigi bison 8gb ram ddr4 phone its sweet unlocked i use h20 20 a month on att network its waterproof tuff as nails and has big batter and 3.5mm audio jack fm radio still i never get another samsuks again lol and fast no blote ware i got it on ebay as a referb
I searched and searched for connecting an HC-05 and came up with some wide variations on how to do it. This covered everything perfectly. Thank you! Edit: If using Win11 you need to select "Advanced" under "Bluetooth Devices Discovery", toward the bottom of the menu on the Settings page where you are adding the device. Otherwise the HC-06 won't be discovered.
For more Information you can check out our website here. jdsgarage.bigcartel.com/
Just would like to say 🎉after buying your plans, several months ago, i have finally gotten it to the point that i can actually use it. Keep in mind I'm 75 years old and am not the best with computers but ihave watched your videos so many times that my screens are almost etched. Never thought i would own a CNC ,let alone build one. Your plans and videos are the best of anything i have experienced. Now to get a THC and tubing notcher add-ons. Thanks again .
If one wants to easily disable this device one could most likely wire in a double pole toggle switch into their cabinet and with the flip of a switch be back to wired mode.
Could you use a dpdt switch in-between the arduino and the Bluetooth module to switch it off and on?
So when I put a switch between the transmit and receive cables I can easily change from cable or Bluetooth mode
I have the plans! I have a thermal dynamics cutmaster 151 but I thought I heard it will not work as it is a pilot arc. First is that correct and second will using the blue tooth connection get rid of the problem and make it feasible to use?
What a brilliant idea! I built my own plasma cutter and after months of chasing interference issues (it was the usb cable!) I decided to put a raspberry pi in the same case as the arduino with a really short usb cable, which works great, and I then use WiFi to access the pi in a headless mode. If only I had thought of this I could have save a couple hundred £!
Have you ever considered upgrading to something like a MKS DLC32? It's a low cost (~$15-20) ESP32 based cnc controller capable of running the Fluidnc, a grbl extension written for the ESP32. You can communicate with it over wifi or bluetooth and it has a micro sd card slot on board that you can use to store your g-code files. With this you could communicate with and control the machine from any bluetooth or wifi capable device without ever having to load any specialty software on to the device you're using.
Where do you find a wiring diagram for this one board as it has plugs currently on it and the steppers come with 4 wires on them not plugs
@@danraymond1703This board can use either on-board or external stepper drivers. Those plugs are for on-board drivers, beside each of the plugs are 4 pins, these are for external drivers. The plugs are left empty when external drivers are used.
So, can I just use the
Arduino UNO R4 WiFi [ABX00087] - Renesas RA4M1 / ESP32-S3 - Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, USB-C, CAN, DAC, OP AMP, Qwiic Connector, 12x8 LED MatrixArduino UNO R4 WiFi [ABX00087] - Renesas RA4M1 / ESP32-S3 - Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, USB-C, CAN, DAC, OP AMP, Qwiic Connector, 12x8 LED Matrix?
Great work, did the build, got problems with the relay, connected to NO and nothing, connect to NC, turn on the plasma cutter and it arcs up straight away no control, soturn off the plasma cutter. Relay is connected as per diagram, pin 11 on the UNO board for signal, so am at a loss as to where the problem might be.
Great information. Thanks for sharing. 👍 I am wondering if you removed the processor from the Arduino board if you wouldn't have to go through the reflashing process. I was able to program a XBEE HC-05 Bluetooth module via serial monitor by removing the processor. I didn't have to blank and reflash. Another benefit of going wireless is that there will be less EMI via the USB cable, especially if using an inexpensive imported plasma cutter.
Haven't had ant EMI issues on this machine, but I have in the past on others and it is NOT fun having your processor crash mid way though a job.
GRBL controller shows "Unknown" in the connection area, and "machine not idle" if I try change position. All jog buttons etc are greyed out. I can move the machine via bluetooth by entering Gcode in the Gcode tab, but nothing else. Open to any suggestions ?
I did set up the Bluetooth conversion but just got to the point of getting it connected to the laptop and it did connect then disconnect every time so I did research and checked everything on the laptop and it seems to be functioning correctly. I even tried the PC and did the same thing. the laptop has other Bluetooth devices and they work fine and I do have 2 of theses HC06 dongles and both disconnect so it is not the devices. Just stuck for the moment with the wireless deal.
This is awesome - not completely through the playlist yet but is there a vid or documentation on getting initially setup with the software via cable? and flashing whatever needs to be flashed?
Awesome Hope I can do this when I build my plasma cutter , already have plans and water tray now i need the 4D printed parts next.
The link for the new code to put into IDE is not pulling up the correct page. can you fix the link??
I made the connections and prior void flashing, according to the instruction, and the AT prompt simply does not get any reply. Does anybody have clue to that issue ?
Hi, did you find a fix for your issue?
Did you change to correct BAUD
@@burgo856yes, I did the necessary, trying with various bauds.
Can you use the wireless and cable both? Or does it have to be one or the other?
hi. i have this bt module, but when i'm connected with bt
the test code don’t run smoothly. if i connect via USB it is working perfect. has anyone experienced same problem?
the app grbl controler doesn't exist in my play store
Arduino a brand for the cnc machine wut??
Openbuilds doesn't see my arduino mega 2650. Any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong? Everything else has gone just like the video.
Thanks
Is there any benefits of spending the extra fifty cents on the hc-05?
On a side note the Android app GRBL controller will not run on newer phones.
Thanks for the info !
I am having issues with this. The 3.3v doesn't seem to be sufficient power to BT module, however when I plug it into the 5v it works instantly. Not sure how to run this on 5v with the relay also using the 5v as per wiring diagram? Have successfully got the BT module working in BT connection only, but the conundrum is how to supply both as 3.3v not enough and I don't want an extra powerpoint/cable in my build.
same here. Am not able to establish connection with the BT module at all. The "AT" command does not get a response. Have tried your 5V trick, but doesn't get me anywhere 😞... Any idea you could share? Thanks
@@danygeorges631 Try each com port and do AT command, could be a different port? After BT setup complete, I ended up needing to still use COM4. Also I just had both feed from the 5v port and it works fine, not sure how this will be tunability wise. But the BT module now works.
Hello. Can i with my build insted use the Arduino Uno Rev4? Insted off the uno rev3. Since it has buildt in Wifi and Bluetooth?
thank you so much. I can't wait to complete my build.
Best regards
For anyone using a Windows 11 pc, in Bluetooth and Devices-devices, I had to change the Bluetooth devices discovery from default to advanced before I could see the device in the “add device” list
Thank you for posting this. I was able to connect with my laptop running Windows 10 so I knew that it was working, but my desktop running Windows 11 wouldn't discover it. Your advice solved my problem. Too bad there isn't a way to post this so that it stays on top.
Hi, I try so many times but still not getting any response when I send AT, so I'm stuck there, don't know what to do
Great video! Thanks! I just bought your files to bild my own plasma cutter so this came really handy. One thing though, never plug the Arduino to the charger before you plug it in to the wall. It´s easy to fry it when you do that. Seen it on computers, Arduinos, ... Just a tip. Love this channel! /Jesper (Sweden).
Thanks, Jackson, I've been wondering about doing this for my build. The shield I'm using doesn't show rx/tx broken out so I have a message in to the maker. If his board doesn't make them available I'll switch to a different breakout shield. I have a question about the GRBL setting for max X/Y at 1000mm, which is about 40 inches? The table is a little smaller. 😁 I also didn't know you could power the HC05/6 with 3.3V. I've always used a voltage divider on the rx/tx lines. Thanks for more great info on this build!
1000mm is the default setting on GRBL. Table dimensions don't actually mean anything if you don't have soft limits on (we do not) so no reason to change it. You don't actually need the voltage divider is you use the 3.3V supply over the 5V supply
Thanks, that's good to know about the soft limits. I guess if you design and cut the parts you know how big they are and can cut accordingly. The HCo5/6 say 3.6V to 6V so I never tried to use one on 3.3V. I sure will now. Thanks for the info!
@@georgechambers3197Did the 3.3v work for you?
I tried both DSD Tech HC-06 and HM-19 modules. They program just fine but neither my PC or my iPhone will recognize them when I do a bluetooth search. I have an Android tablet that recognizes both modules. Any ideas?
Im having similar problems as well. I had the HC-06 work for a couple hours then it quit working! Computer doesnt see it but my phone does. I tried another HC-06 and same problem... I may try a HM-10 next.
Anybody had any problems using hm10 module on a mac? Cannot get it to emulate a port tia
Hey Jackson, thanks for all the videos and the plans, i am building it and so far everything fits perfectly. I decided to use the bluetooth connection, however I'm not sure whether it would be the best option for me. I purchased my plasma cutter before seeing your project and my cutter is high frequency. Do you think bluetooth is more vulnerable to EMI than usb cable or is it the other way around? Any advice is appreciated. I have installed everything in aluminum box but still able to establish bt connection.
Hello Peter, I am in a similar situation. no pilot plasma cutter, bought before thinking about making a CNC (every pilot plasma I see on sale on the net are said to have HF ignition as well, anyway does it change anyhing to the noise, to have a pilot or not pilot ignition ?) I have serious EMI issues too. I have no bluetooth module yet, but I am thining about buying one. Did you try it, is it working ?
Also, i may prefer to ask again to be sure I understand you well, you say the bluetooth communication can pass through the aluminium box, really ? is this box grounded ? that would be awesome
I don't have a 3d printer do sell the case for this unit ?
Hello, Do you have an update for Arduino Ide 2.0 ? I hit a wall , I send AT. It returns ok. Then I try the AT+NAMEplasma and it is stuck. Any ideas? Thanks
I had to try different things for 3 weeks before I was able to make it work. It turns out there are different versions of the BT module which use slightly different versions of commands. Also some will disregard the command if it takes too long to type, so i had to copy and paste
thank for inspiration God bless i buy plans soon for stuff you have
What cable do you use from the torch to the arduino ?
Will this work with a Apple iPad?
FYI i got a Umidigi bison 8gb ram ddr4 phone its sweet unlocked i use h20 20 a month on att network its waterproof tuff as nails and has big batter and 3.5mm audio jack fm radio still i never get another samsuks again lol and fast no blote ware i got it on ebay as a referb
Worked great. Thanks!
👍 👍👍👍👍 💯 💯 💯 💯 💯
Any plans for Torch Height Controller? Thank You
It will be the next video with this project.
tôi có thể mua nó ở đâu
Awesome! 👏
I searched and searched for connecting an HC-05 and came up with some wide variations on how to do it. This covered everything perfectly. Thank you!
Edit: If using Win11 you need to select "Advanced" under "Bluetooth Devices Discovery", toward the bottom of the menu on the Settings page where you are adding the device. Otherwise the HC-06 won't be discovered.
Thank you for advanced tip :)
how come you dont ship the parts to the UK ?
My guess would be Brexit.
😻😻😻😻 😻 👍 👍👍👍 👍 💞💞💞💞💞
I have yet to get the firmware flasher to work on any of my Arduinos. I had to flash it with IDE.