Yep, definitely learned something. I just start accumulating as much knowledge and ways of doing things as possible, getting into serious machining. The most valuable tip here, is to exaggerate the angles to ensure removing backlash. Thanks for sharing this very detailed video.
I just want to clarify something. A machine need not be level. There are machining bays on boats, ships, aircraft carriers, etc. They are never level. So long as the base and table are true, you're set t begin tramming. I say this because a lot of shop floors aren't level (especially home shops), but the process can still be completed. Another trick/tip is to put something like a 1/2" drill rod in a collet and, using a machinist square, get the head as close as possible.
I'm sorry but I'm confused. I only have one indicator, same as you have shown on the actual machine, but the explanation is for having 2? how can I do this with just he one indicator?
I was taught to have the quill extended for greater accuracy and finer adjustment. Also not to have too much travel on the indicator as it can damage the stylus / plunger when sweeping out of the the tee slots. Here is a quick release indicator holder ideal for general use on a Bridgeport. - ruclips.net/video/_djgGUKpULs/видео.html or for use in a chuck or collet - ruclips.net/video/3r9xVYoTK38/видео.html
Im 17 going into this line of work in hopes of making it a profession (trade skills in general is of my main importance acquiring a machinists handbook plus starett tooling and book and getting a bit acclimated with mills lathes cncs and so on) But when it comes mills does anyone have good tips when learning (i have 1 year experience so i am moderately familiar with the basics)
1) understand your place as a learner and don’t try to act like you know everything already. Show that you want to learn from others. 2) have a rigid setup. Always shorten any kind of stick out 3) understand everything about the machine. Know when you can change settings (running/not running) 4) understand speeds and feeds 5) understand what climb milling is and when it is and isn’t appropriate I have all my lecture notes and videos organized in one place here: engineeringtechnology.org/et-curriculum-and-lecture-notes/
Just to add, if college is an option have a look at engineering technology. Less theory than engineering, more career options than trade skills alone, but high value on trade skills. If you have questions, just let me know: engineeringtechnology.org/about/contact/
This is a good procedure for the imaginary perfect world on the imaginary perfect machine. In reality it only gets you close. The final proof is taking a light fine facing cut with a 3-6" single point fly cutter, if you do not have cross hatch marks on the piece in both directions and in both axis then it is not square. Rinse and repeat until you have cross hatch witness marks in both directions and in both axis. Marks like this ((((((( or this ))))))) shows it is not square. Finally don't sweep the vice jaw in, clamp a solid straight bar in the vice and sweep that to simulate an actual part. Of course if you are making pins for bulldozers and bars for welding on excavator buckets you don't need to do this. But when you need to split that last thousandth , this is how to do it.
@@Robbeerrtt No the cutting cross hatch is the ultimate arbiter of squareness. Once you have that, all the dials can tell you is how misaligned the surface is to the actual axis of the cut.
I'm not a machinist, but in the past they had machinist (very precise bubble) levels. Level table means level vice and you can level a part with a machinist level. Now we have digital smart levels. You can zero the smart level to the table and then your part. I would do my best to level the machine though. It really doesn't take very long.
So let's say a block is messed up and is 6/8 instead of 5/8, you can put a facemill in and easily chop off .125 quickly, let's say it needs to be a perfect 90 or a squared block, so you need the side and top to be perpendicular, but let's say you didn't tram or indicate and you cut it. Now it will be slightly off whether that be by 1 degree or many, you messed up the block and have to completely restart or if you put in a drill instead of using a drill press cause you were pressed for time (hah comedy) as you drill the hole will be at a slight angle instead of perfectly down. Basically if you are using the machine at all that isn't trammed it's not a smart idea
@Thedudeabides803 You are right, a machine does not really have to be leveled. The first problem is that some folks don't understand the difference between "leveled" and "trammed". The former means "the XY plane is perpendicular to the direction of gravity", whereas the latter means "the XY plane is perpendicular to the Z axis". This video is about the latter, a prerequisite to precise machining. The second problem is that without mentioning numbers (accuracy) "perpendicular" has no meaning. Practically speaking, it turns out that you can measure (as has been shown in the video) the deviation from perpendicularity of the Z axis (tram) and you can actually see the results when machining. Measuring "levelness" is not as precise, so you don't really know how far off things are, and I would challenge anyone who would want to claim that a machine that is not leveled will produce something visibly different or bad. That said, leveling is likely a good practice -- folks may assume the table is leveled and use a level when fixing a part. It may be that the coolant system (or tray) assumes a reasonably leveled machine. Lastly, as a stretch, the geometry of an unleveled machine would be exposed to ever so slightly different gravity-induced force vectors, but I'd offer that practically such changes would be infinitesimal and insignificant. However, the gravity-induced forces can distort (e.g., twist) a machine (to the point of detectable problems) if the supporting feet are not equally pressurized, so adequate support and floor is important on large highly precise machines. But this has nothing to do with leveling.
As a toolmaker I can safely say it matters, this is not a scientific explanation but has happened to myself during my work. A machine I was using was on a slight slope about 5° to the right, no big deal until the machine to the left had parts on it, so I hung the part off the back right side of the bed with the head about 85° in C and started drilling some deep holes. Well, the Inertia of me pulling the handle down helped tip the machine right over, I didn't know my own strength as this milling machine came crashing to the floor. No injuries just a snapped drill and a huge hole in the ground. Every machine was bolted down afterwards.
The head and table need to be perpendicular with each other for accurate machining. The machine itself doesn't need to be level. Check out Mr. Pete's tramming video #662.
Hello, I hope you reply to my message. I am a secondary industrial school student. I was asked for a project, so I took part of your video clip and added modifications and my voice to the clip. I hope you forgive me for this. I also added your name to the video. Channel owner weld notes
Excellent video, was able to knock mine out in less than 30 min, including the time it took me to watch the vid TWICE! Outstanding!
Yep, definitely learned something. I just start accumulating as much knowledge and ways of doing things as possible, getting into serious machining. The most valuable tip here, is to exaggerate the angles to ensure removing backlash. Thanks for sharing this very detailed video.
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
I just want to clarify something. A machine need not be level. There are machining bays on boats, ships, aircraft carriers, etc. They are never level. So long as the base and table are true, you're set t begin tramming. I say this because a lot of shop floors aren't level (especially home shops), but the process can still be completed.
Another trick/tip is to put something like a 1/2" drill rod in a collet and, using a machinist square, get the head as close as possible.
Such a well presented video. Thanks...
Excellent presentation.
Thank you.
I'm sorry but I'm confused. I only have one indicator, same as you have shown on the actual machine, but the explanation is for having 2? how can I do this with just he one indicator?
Very clean mill 👍
Great video…thank you!!
Extend the quill. Why? To amplify error from vertex. Also use 1 precision parallel for sweep.
I was taught to have the quill extended for greater accuracy and finer adjustment. Also not to have too much travel on the indicator as it can damage the stylus / plunger when sweeping out of the the tee slots.
Here is a quick release indicator holder ideal for general use on a Bridgeport. - ruclips.net/video/_djgGUKpULs/видео.html or for use in a chuck or collet - ruclips.net/video/3r9xVYoTK38/видео.html
Nice mill
I am a chemical engineer working with mainly mechanical guys. Machining seems like some sort of beautiful and arcane art to me.
Great logical thought process and tips.
Im 17 going into this line of work in hopes of making it a profession (trade skills in general is of my main importance acquiring a machinists handbook plus starett tooling and book and getting a bit acclimated with mills lathes cncs and so on)
But when it comes mills does anyone have good tips when learning (i have 1 year experience so i am moderately familiar with the basics)
1) understand your place as a learner and don’t try to act like you know everything already. Show that you want to learn from others.
2) have a rigid setup. Always shorten any kind of stick out
3) understand everything about the machine. Know when you can change settings (running/not running)
4) understand speeds and feeds
5) understand what climb milling is and when it is and isn’t appropriate
I have all my lecture notes and videos organized in one place here:
engineeringtechnology.org/et-curriculum-and-lecture-notes/
Just to add, if college is an option have a look at engineering technology. Less theory than engineering, more career options than trade skills alone, but high value on trade skills.
If you have questions, just let me know:
engineeringtechnology.org/about/contact/
This is a good procedure for the imaginary perfect world on the imaginary perfect machine. In reality it only gets you close. The final proof is taking a light fine facing cut with a 3-6" single point fly cutter, if you do not have cross hatch marks on the piece in both directions and in both axis then it is not square. Rinse and repeat until you have cross hatch witness marks in both directions and in both axis. Marks like this ((((((( or this ))))))) shows it is not square.
Finally don't sweep the vice jaw in, clamp a solid straight bar in the vice and sweep that to simulate an actual part.
Of course if you are making pins for bulldozers and bars for welding on excavator buckets you don't need to do this. But when you need to split that last thousandth , this is how to do it.
Learner here. If the dials don't get you aced at first, then you go to the cross hatch method, then return to the dials?
@@Robbeerrtt No the cutting cross hatch is the ultimate arbiter of squareness. Once you have that, all the dials can tell you is how misaligned the surface is to the actual axis of the cut.
Why does the machine to need to level? I don’t understand why this matters.
I'm not a machinist, but in the past they had machinist (very precise bubble) levels. Level table means level vice and you can level a part with a machinist level. Now we have digital smart levels. You can zero the smart level to the table and then your part. I would do my best to level the machine though. It really doesn't take very long.
So let's say a block is messed up and is 6/8 instead of 5/8, you can put a facemill in and easily chop off .125 quickly, let's say it needs to be a perfect 90 or a squared block, so you need the side and top to be perpendicular, but let's say you didn't tram or indicate and you cut it. Now it will be slightly off whether that be by 1 degree or many, you messed up the block and have to completely restart or if you put in a drill instead of using a drill press cause you were pressed for time (hah comedy) as you drill the hole will be at a slight angle instead of perfectly down. Basically if you are using the machine at all that isn't trammed it's not a smart idea
@Thedudeabides803 You are right, a machine does not really have to be leveled. The first problem is that some folks don't understand the difference between "leveled" and "trammed". The former means "the XY plane is perpendicular to the direction of gravity", whereas the latter means "the XY plane is perpendicular to the Z axis". This video is about the latter, a prerequisite to precise machining.
The second problem is that without mentioning numbers (accuracy) "perpendicular" has no meaning.
Practically speaking, it turns out that you can measure (as has been shown in the video) the deviation from perpendicularity of the Z axis (tram) and you can actually see the results when machining. Measuring "levelness" is not as precise, so you don't really know how far off things are, and I would challenge anyone who would want to claim that a machine that is not leveled will produce something visibly different or bad.
That said, leveling is likely a good practice -- folks may assume the table is leveled and use a level when fixing a part. It may be that the coolant system (or tray) assumes a reasonably leveled machine.
Lastly, as a stretch, the geometry of an unleveled machine would be exposed to ever so slightly different gravity-induced force vectors, but I'd offer that practically such changes would be infinitesimal and insignificant.
However, the gravity-induced forces can distort (e.g., twist) a machine (to the point of detectable problems) if the supporting feet are not equally pressurized, so adequate support and floor is important on large highly precise machines. But this has nothing to do with leveling.
As a toolmaker I can safely say it matters, this is not a scientific explanation but has happened to myself during my work. A machine I was using was on a slight slope about 5° to the right, no big deal until the machine to the left had parts on it, so I hung the part off the back right side of the bed with the head about 85° in C and started drilling some deep holes. Well, the Inertia of me pulling the handle down helped tip the machine right over, I didn't know my own strength as this milling machine came crashing to the floor. No injuries just a snapped drill and a huge hole in the ground. Every machine was bolted down afterwards.
The head and table need to be perpendicular with each other for accurate machining. The machine itself doesn't need to be level. Check out Mr. Pete's tramming video #662.
Please start putting videos
Hello, I hope you reply to my message. I am a secondary industrial school student. I was asked for a project, so I took part of your video clip and added modifications and my voice to the clip. I hope you forgive me for this. I also added your name to the video. Channel owner weld notes
Please start putting videos