Upgrading and customizing the Holding Tank Valves in my RV. Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- In this video, I upgrade the cable-pull holding tank valves in my RV. They have been problematic since we bought the RV, so I am going to replace them with Barker Auto-Drain electric valves.
Here is a link to part 2 of the video: • Upgrading and customiz...
Project Webpage: www.rv-project....
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Looks like a nice upgrade, thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Such poor craftsmanship with the original cables. Something like this no one would think about to check when purchasing their new RV. The company should still reimburse you. They should be sued( but too much work for a lazy, greedy lawyer ) for all the grief and possible waste disasters it caused. We need a better government, one that really prevents these companies from selling crappy products to the public. Thanks for your post, God Bless
As long as people continue to buy them...
@@RVProject yep, seems that way. People been buying marijuana for years. Now it's even becoming legal. Customer education and buyers BEWARE has to be the credo. Another thing, if it were up to me, no RV would pass inspection if it didn't come with a full solid walk on roof. Some come with it, but many have a flimsy roof that if you're not extremely careful will break. How cheap can these RV manufacturers be. Very sad situation. Happy and safe RVing 🌴🐣🐰
Can you just use a rocker dpdt switch in place of the oem switch? I’d like to use two switches in parallel for each motor. That way I can operate the valves from the wet bay and inside. Any input you have is appreciated
I have the same issues with my trailer. If I wasn't planning on upgrading I'd consider them. I have three gate valves (gray, black, and galley) so I estimate $450 in parts. If I could do the job for a couple hundred it would be a no brainer.
After what I found out when I installed mine is you might get the cable valves to work properly simply making sure they were installed correctly. This means accessing the underside of the RV and re-routing the cables if necessary.
I didn't do this because I already bought the valve actuators, so by the time I opened the bottom of the RV, I figured I'd do a complete upgrade.
Here is a link to the Valterra Cable Valve installation document showing the proper way to install them: www.valterra.com/download/11413/
I discovered the manufacturer of my trailer simply didn't follow these directions. If they did, it might have worked better to begin with.
Being under the rig, how weather proof do they look?
They are not particularly weatherproof. However, my RV has a bottom cover that encloses everything. If it were exposed to the weather, I might not install them.
Good thought though. I will incorporate that caveat into Part 2. Thanks for the idea.
I was able to contact Barker. Here was their response:
"Yes, many Auto Drain installations indeed are located in the open belly of an RV travel trailer, motorhome or 5th wheel trailer. Our Auto Drain is not water-tight but in most cases if it gets wet it’s not going to be an issue. We do not require any special cover or protection from moisture".
what override ability do you have in the case the auto drain decides to not work?
None.
Great upgrade. Thanks. Have you posted the link install for the electric valve?
www.rv-project.com/projects/barkervalve.php
Boring!!