oh my days how useful is this video!!! Days and weeks deciding to buy either a tablesaw or tracksaw and Peter shows just how versatile a track saw can be. Peter you are (still) the man!!
Several years too late for this comment but - I think for me the biggest benefit of a track saw is breaking down big panels into a safer configuration. I can't tell you the number of times I needed an 8 foot sheet of plywood broken down into a 6ft piece (off the top of my head). Running a large panel through the table saw with such a large amount of unsupported or tenuously supported material is just not safe, nor is it often very accurate. I have a nice big table saw - even still I would consider a track saw an endlessly valuable piece of equipment for any shop. Add to that the mobility of a track saw vs a cabinet saw it's my go to for projects outside of the home. This channel is a HUGE part of why I made the jump and I absolutely do not regret it.
It was long before I came across this video when I decided to invest in a track saw and a pair of guiding rails over a table saw for my home use. Since I have no dedicated space for my hobby, track saw is a real space saver, as I can put it away into my tools cabinet along with its rails as soon as a finish using it, unlike a table saw, which requires permanent storage room. And with a track saw I can easily build a compact DIY table saw for working with small parts or non-sheet material. Glad I've made a right decision.
Many thanks Peter. As a result of your comparison videos, I purchased a Titan about 6 - 8 months ago from B&Q. £70 on sale, guessing end of line but £70 including the track!?! WOW. A lot of bang for your buck. I'm only a new amateur/hobbyist/weekend woodworker trying to work out of a 4ft by 10ft shed, so I can't justify £500 on a festool. Now embarking on your Tracksaw Workshop playlist with keen anticipation. Whilst it's impressive to see our friends over the pond making 15 foot epoxy river tables in their double garages etc, you content keeps it real for the vast majority of us. Thank you!
@peter Millard Bought my first track saw, a MacAlister one - wow to think the time I spend trying to set up straight cuts with my bosch circular saw, clamps, guides. The track saw just does it! Never knew about them till this channel and Scott Brown, great thing. Thanks for the tutorial series.
Truly grateful for all the videos you put out, but this series is the one I need in my life from tomorrow onwards. (so being able to watch the whole series in one day is just the ticket). Completing a loft conversion I started too long ago and using 12mm ply to screen water tanks etc. and access doors. I'd never heard of this exotic piece of 'quip before I saw your videos but I bought a Makita SP6000 last week, with two tracks, and I don't know how I've ever managed without one now. Thank you for all the vids you do but especially bringing TSs to my attention.
Excellent video! I've used a tracksaw for quite a while, but never thought of using it for rebates and trenches! No need to pull out the router for a small job.
Just did a binge watch of all seven parts of this series Peter, mate, what a lot of work! My hat goes off to you, thanks very much :-) You are quite right about the table saw, it has its uses, but you can get by without one generally. I do like the new channel logo, nothing wrong with the old one, but in the small icon it made you look like you were wearing a black pork pie hat and dare I say it, a bit more Arthur Daly like than Inspector Frost :-) I will align the rest of my comments with the relevant parts, but thanks again for all your work on this it will be a very useful RUclips resource.
Thanks Bob! And thanks for the Arthur Daley comment - priceless, lol! Yes, the new logo - like the tracksaw workshop - has been along time coming, hope it was worth the wait! 👍👍
Great video Peter. I wish I'd bought a tracksaw before I bought a cheapo table saw years ago. That thing used to frighten me to death and I was really relieved when I sold it (to a professional chippie by the way, not to another unsuspecting newbie). I took the plunge (no pun intended) and bought a Makita tracksaw 6 months ago. It was a big investment but I've never regretted it. Used it last weekend to build a shaker style cabinet door using your method and the whole thing worked a treat. Thanks Peter. Learning loads from your channel.
Thank you for converting me to plunge saws. The cut quality is absolutely second to none: no matter how much effort I put into the best cuts on the table saw - the effect was rather mediocre. In the case of glue-ups, pristine, straight-cut lines are paramount and the track saw does offer this feature.
Thank you so much for your clear explanations. I don’t have space for a table saw and need to rip a lot of materials for a project so a track saw interests me.
That is honestly one of the best demonstrations of a track saw that I have seen. Very practical application of its abilities. Festool needs to take notes! I’ve been to several of their demonstrations and the just make Test cuts. Big deal😕 I used to have a hobby shop that was probably 3times the size of your pro shop. Filled with standalone tools just to play with. Sold that home and moved to smaller home where now I only have a garage. Kept my miter saw, router and bought a festool saw and mft. I’m very happy with the decision.
I remember getting my makita 36v tracksaw I was so excited, I chucked in a couple of batteries pulled the trigger the blade spun then fell out on the floor 😕 so I slowed down a bit checked everything properly and its been great ever since 👍🏻
Hi Peter and followers, i've recently purchased a 800mm rail/track from Festool for my lovely plunge saw of Makita. Works fine in my tiny workshop in combination with my (dutch invented) walko. For horizontal or (on an angle some 75 degrees) vertical use. Great to see you working and explaning all you insights, the hilarious bloopers included. we all could share a bit more of those easily made mistakes. I got a ton of it if fear. Michael from Amsterdam
I do love the track saw. I started last year as a Handyman and in my workshop I had a good bench saw. As time went on I was needing the abilities of the bench saw on site. Debating the idea of a portable table saw or a track saw I opted for the Bosch tracksaw. So so glad I did. Door fitting and trimming became a damn sight easier. Flooring and many other jobs are easier now. Nice video and looking forward to the rest of the series. Thank you.
I’m subscribed to quite a few channels on RUclips and occasionally comment. It’s nice to actually get a response from the channel owner. There is only yourself and the Gosforth handyman that appear to take time and read comments and actually respond. Time to move my Patreon subscriptions I think.
I started with Ebauer but short tracks put me off. Eventually I got Dewalt. Have been using it to cut doors, frames, corian shelves, you name it - as you have said - extremely versatile saw :).
Hi Peter thanks for some great tutorials. I made my first basic box using Parkside track saw (€59 in France) after watching your 20 min build. Mine took an order of magnitude greater but I'm very pleased with result, it's just for the cat. Things I learnt: 1 10mm ply is unforgiving of nails, 2 I should have done a full dry build before any gluing and handled it less , 3 I should have used oval panel pins. I'm going to watch your how to build a box video now and see what else I should have done! Cheers Allen
Nice video Peter. I have the dewalt flexvolt 'tracksaw' circular saw. In the UK and Europe it is track compatible but in the States its just a regular saw. I don't tend to use my plunge saw a lot but the 'tracksaw' that I have is used constantly as the ability to make quick straight cuts is well worth it.
I used a circular saw today with a wooden guide, the guide slipped a bit, the saw tilted a bit... Only happened on every side of the board at least once. If these are not common problems with a track saw then I finally understand why you are so enthusiastic.
Ok Peter. I take it all back. The fabled Tracksaw Workshop has finally arrived despite my scepticism (see earlier posts). And well worth the wait. Thank you for continuing to put such helpful content out there accessibly. I appreciate the time and effort. I’ve already bought a tracksaw on your advice and I can see it becoming the mainstay of my embryonic workshop. All the best for the year ahead.
Hello Peter, I am fortunate enough, I guess, to have both a Festool ts55 track saw and three different length tracks plus a Scheppach ts2600ci table saw. The table saw has an excellent 'micro adjustment' facility on the sliding table that to me far exceeds the level of accuracy and repeatability you can achieve by nudging the track system. Nevertheless my MFT table and mitre fence & square system with up/down lift track is also revolutionary compared to previous woodworking methods I have used over my DIY years ! You're 10 minute videos are hugely interesting and inspiring as I still have much to learn. Thank you.
OK I am convinced. I was halfway there anyway as I don't have the money for a sawstop and tablesaws scare the bejesus out of me. Pushing a blade away feels so much safer than pushing timber into a blade. I am thinking a tracksaw and a bandsaw might eliminate the need for a tablesaw completely. thanks for doing these video, regards John
Great start. Having lost the trenching facility in my mitre saw with the move to DeWalt, I’m doing many of my dados, rebates and half laps on the track saw now, albeit for a dado/rebate cuts to the like with the saw and then a router attached to the rail to remove the waste in two passes. Anyway I’m already on the next vid... see you there.
Bought one recently and yet to use it. This series will be very useful. I have both a table saw and a portable cirular saw and they can be tricky for large cuts, I am sure the tracksaw will be easier.
Great videos, very informative. I would argue that comparing a track saw to a table saw is a bit apples and oranges, and the best option for a pro or decent amateur would be to have both! I have a table saw as part of my Triton TWX7 table system - an excellent piece of kit for the small workshop or onsite - and I use it for much more than just ripping down ply or mdf. I do a lot of repair and splicing jobs for sash and casement windows, so it's ideal for forming the profiles of rails or stiles, eg the 15 degree slope of a sash meeting rail. It can also be used for making rabbets or to cross-cut half lap joints, plus cutting tenon shoulders. I also use it to rip down spare stock to smaller sizes, or quickly adjust skirting depth rather than plane it. Finally it's an improvised joiner when you need to straight-edge two boards and glue them together. All in all, a table saw is a versatile machine in the right hands and well worth the investment for a traditional carpenter/joiner. Having said that, I haven't got a plunge saw, and I'm in the market for one - which is why I've ended up here. I have the occasional need to use ply for a sub-floor prior to fitting hardwood flooring; my old Bosch 110v or GKS18Vli does a decent job of ripping down the sheets with a straight edge, but my mate has just bought the Erbauer and said he wished he'd got one years ago! Let's face it we don't need much of an excuse to get more lovely kit! Cheers.
Thanks. This series is pitched at novice woodworkers picking up their plunge saw for the first time, and aimed at helping them get the best out of it, starting from when you unpack it. Yes, there are many things that a table saw can do better or easier than a plunge saw (narrow repetitive rips, cutting wedges...) and as I say in the videos, I wouldn't want to be without my table saw - but they're not the focus of this series, and were only mentioned in passing. 👍
Waiting for a video in which you teach us how to cross cut 4' wide ply square with reference to base edge. I think without that this series is not complete. Thanks in anticipation.
I wish you'd made this video last year, I had to make a load of draws just like that last year but I chose the worlds most difficult method. The only thing I'd have done differently is to just rebate the base in rather than dado it. As long as the base is a good fit the glue will be more than strong enough. Really looking forward to binge watching the rest of the series now.
Okay, so this is the first time I've seen it explained that generally a tracksaw is a plunge style saw, not just a normal circular saw with bits that connect to a rail. This makes a bit of difference in my thoughts on whether to trackify my circular saw. I'm sure there would be benefits over a free hand circular saw and guide, but it may be worth it for me to look at actual tracksaw systems, now.
Yeah, the water's muddied a bit by manufacturers making circular saws that attach to guide rails. See video #378 'Skil saw or plunge saw' - ruclips.net/video/cV3DjNlZq8s/видео.html 👍
If you want the miter sloped towards saw, you can flip the board over! Don't forget make allowance for the reversed miter width.😎😎😎😎 No table saw needed!
Great start to the series, Peter; I really enjoyed the tray demo. I wish these videos had been around a couple of years ago when I was humming and hawing over my own tracksaw purchase - it would have made the decision much easier! Looking forward to binge-watching the other parts now :-)
Thanks for these videos. They’ve really helped dispel the notion that one “needs” a table saw in the hobbyist workshop. 1. Have you done a video or have info in deciding between the TS 55 vs the TS 75? 2. What length of track would you recommend to start with, especially for those replacing their table saw with a track saw? (Cutting wood from plywood sizes to cutting board thicknesses and hoping to incorporate your jigs) Thank you so much Peter
Thank you! No, I’ve never used a TS75, and honestly if you need the extra depth of cut then you probably know it already. It is a heavier saw, with a longer baseplate too, so if you want to start / finish a cut with the saw fully plunged you’ll need a longer rail. As to rail lengths, I cut an awful lot of material with just a pair of 1400 rails when I first has the saw, but if you have the funds and the space to store it, I’d recommend a long rail for cutting full sheets. I bought the Makita 3-metre rail because they were a fraction of the price of the Festool, though the difference is less marked these days. And worth having a shorter rail too, for smaller pieces - an 800 or 1080. Actually Incut my 3-metre rail into a 2100/900 which has worked very well. HTH! P
I think track saws are the great unsung heroes of the small workshop, and even medium sized workshops where you might consider a panel saw with sliding table. Sliding tables rob you of half a workshop, and for the amount of use it is likely to get, an unnecessary waste of space at that. For my money, jobsite saws are perfect in a garage size home workshops, coupled with a decent track saw. I use the Bosch GKS 18V-68 GC (I believe any of the Bosh saws with 'G' designation will work on their track). My saw does not have all the features your Festool does, but it is possibly more versatile. I would never do without my DeWalt tablesaw though. It has rack and pinion fence that always stays perfectly aligned with the blade, and always cuts exactly to the size indicated, and that is true even when the fence is removed and replaced. I have a ton of jigs for the table saw that a track saw couldn't come close to duplicating. Horses for courses, but if I could only have one, it would be the table saw. BTW I found it frustrating waiting for you to stop talking and demonstrate something useful. Just saying but it was getting pretty boring.
You know some folks find what I'm saying to be quite useful too, especially for a novice, who this series was aimed at when I made them. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. 👍
About time Millard lad... 😒 Lookin forward to watchin the rest of the series Pete, I bought a Scheppach tracksaw (looks like the thumbnail model) online from Germany last year but haven't had much of a chance to use in it in anger yet. There are "tune-up" vids out there & one big thing is to get a lighter spring... I haven't done that yet but boy does it need it. I also have one of those little Lidl tablesaws which is quite handy but I'd be afraid to put an 8 by 4 sheet on it !😅😅 Okay lads... lets DO this 👍😎☘ Edit... Just wanna also say thanks for all the links you put in the description box... I did have to do a double-take on the Steam Roller 😅😅😅
Peter. I've been enjoying and learning a lot from your videos. Can you possibly advise me about dust. I bought a Macallister saw on your recommendation, have taped an old credit card over the side window and tried connecting the saw to a shop vac and a Henry. They may be extracting some dust but there are huge clouds of sawdust blown out to the front of the saw when cutting. I am thinking of getting your Sheppach bust collector and rigging up some sort of funnel ahead of the saw but I notice that your saws never seem to cause this problem. It would be great to have your thoughts on the best dust control for the tracks. Thanks
Hi James. The dust collection is one of the things that does improve as you get further up the price scale, but I can’t say I’ve experienced what you’re describing when I’ve used the MacAllister, Titan or Parkside saws - all of a similar type and price point. I wonder if there’s some kind of internal blockage that might be restricting the airflow? I had this once on my Festool saw where a fine piece of shaving worked it’s way into the blade housing and partially blocked the hose outlet; might be worth a quick look, if you feel like tinkering with it? The blade guard/saw side is usually just screwed on, so easy enough to get into to take a look. But that’s all I can think of for now, as to what might be a cause. Let me know how you get on. Thanks Peter
Thanks, but there's really not much more to say about the tray other than what was shown in this video, or in the previous video (#131) if you wanted to do it 'properly' ie not as a tracksaw project. HTH P
Wow! I only just saw this video, now. And I have got to say Peter, I wish I'd seen this video before. The first saw I got was circular saw, which I build into a diy table saw. And I have all the problems you adressed, and more. Breaking down large sheets are a nightmare, I struggle to get square crosscuts on large pieces, and being a diy saw - there is neither a blade guard, nor a riving knife. Sadly, there is a real lack of reasonably priced tracksaws here in Norway. There are some cheap ones, but they use a system where you attach the saw to a sled, that again rides on the rail. And these have gotten really bad reviews. I am trying to get by using another cheap circular saw that just bought today, but the my initial tests are not promising. However, we shall see how this all turns out. Again, great video. Very educational/informative as well as entertaining. Luckily there are 6 more ;-) Thanks for the great content.
Nice one as I bought an Aldi tracksaw for crimbo and been waiting for this since you mentioned it on your podcast. Not used it much but rails seem smooth and sticks to boards ok. Also made your cross cut jig to work with it too. (the old one that uses the track)
Hi Peter, great video as usual. Have you used or heard of people using the Rutlands brand plunge saw? Priced aroudn £170, I wonder if this is worth the extra over the Mac Alister? Thanks
Hi Gary. Never had hands-on with one, but visually it’s very similar to the Einhell and Parkside. Can’t say wether or not it has the same issue as those saws re the wider baseplate or not though. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you for the super quick response, much appreciated and please keep up the videos. They are very interesting and entertaining. My wife may not agree but I like them!
Thanks I’ve been waiting for this episode and guess what it’s like those London buses wait long enough and you don’t get just one but a a long line of them.
For me the main Reason to get a table saw in addiontion to my Tracksaw was to cut small workpieces. Even with small workspace i think to way to go is a combination of a (cheap) tablesaw and a tracksaw.
Thanks Peter for the time and effort you've taken to put together this series of videos. Hopefully I'll have the confidence to start using my Lidl track saw that's still sitting in its box. Slightly confused by RUclips recommended which put video 7 up first in my case that's algorithms for you!!
Peter, it's not very clear to me why you consider a track saw to be so superior to, say, a table saw. It seems to me that the most significant cause of error is aligning the edge of the track to the line to be cut. As far as I can see, this can only be done by eye-balling it, unless you have an expensive alignment jig. With a table saw, you can either a) set the fence accurately using the fence adjustment or b) set the fence using a gauge block of some kind (maybe just a wooden offcut, in the most primitive case.) The table saw fence, once set, gives repeatable cuts. Now, I don't own a track saw, but I do have a home-brew track saw jig (a wooden sled in which my circular saw sits, and a track made from a piece of t-and-g flooring with an aluminium u-channel guide along which the sled slides) so I am very used to the problem of aligning to a pencil line. I can't see that an expensive track saw would alleviate this problem any better than my own jig. Am I missing something obvious?
I just started watching your tracksaw series and I agree that it is definitely a safer way to start for beginning wood workers. One thing that sprung to mind when watching this video is that it appears the offcuts are sized to the desired width. For splinterfree cuts, that would need to be the side where the track is on. Am I wrong or do you indeed work with the offcuts and is the tearout acceptable for your demonstration?
I'm sorry, I don't understand 'offcuts are sized to the desired width'; the rail rests on the workpiece, the offcut is to the right of the splinter-guard. Unless you're deliberately making a waste-side cut - where the piece you want to keep is to the right of the saw - then the offcuts will be whatever size remains. I typically get very little tearout on the waste-side with the saw that I use commercially, if that helps.
@@10MinuteWorkshop That was indeed what I meant. To me it appeared that the right side of your cut was sized to the width you wanted, but that may just have been my impression. Thank you for your reply.
Wow!! Why on earth didn't I ever think of using my plunge saw for trench cutting instead of always getting the router out? I do it all the time using the trenching stops on my two mitre saws - but this is just SO OBVIOUS !!!! *Facepalm*
Enjoying the plunge saw vids , was wondering if you could do a review on the Erbauer saw understandably you are possibly done with plunge saws and inundated with requests 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Superb looking forward to that before I purchase, Erbauer tools in general seem to have good reviews but I wouldn't necessarily believe all RUclipsrs if you know what I mean 👍
Thank you, Peter, for this excellent series on the track saw 👍👍 BTW, is there any reason that you know why track saws are always left handed? Stupid question probably, but it’s not obvious to me… Thanks you for not only the “big” tips, but also the small, not so obvious ones (that wouldn’t occur to me but are genius although obvious too, like how to check if the cut is square in Part-3. Awesome! -Tip, see how-to readjust squareness in Part-4 video.). It seems to me that you’ve got a nice intuitive ability in geometry 😉👍
Thanks Ernesto! Yes, it’s an odd one; most cordless saws are right-handed, I’ve discovered! The only right-handed corded tracksaw I know of is the Kreg - and we don’t get that here in the UK. 🤷♂️👍
Hi Paul. It’s an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-function table & the hinged rail comes as standard. See videos #182 and #183 for more details. 👍 Video 182 ruclips.net/video/0V-p5F7SjO4/видео.html
Nice video - just bought the Schleppach PL55 and need to get going. Looking forward to see the next videos. I have not considered using it "on top of the table" as you do (cutting shallow trails in the table too). What type of board is it you use on the table top?
Thanks. The full tracksaw workshop series was released a couple of years ago - there’s a playlist with all Tracksaw workshop episodes in order, and all tracksaw-related videos here - bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop The bench top covering is just scrap MDF, but you can use whatever you have - it’s just to protect the surface. 👍
Just learning about track saws. Is the "keeper" piece the one under the track saw? All the videos I see they put a measurement mark on the board and aline the track to the cut. and make the cut. if you have a 4x4 sheet good and need a 2 inch piece, does that mean the track has to be on the 2 inch piece? If the track is on the large piece I think your small piece would be off by the width of the blade kerf. If the track has to be on the small piece I would think you have shim up the track so it is stable. Thanks for the videos.
Most of the time the guiderail rests on the workpiece, and the splinterguard is on your cutline; the waste piece is to the right. Occasionally for narrow cuts, you'll make a waste-side cut where the workpiece is to the right of the saw, so you need to allow for the blade kerf; there are simple jigs available for this. 👍
I have a stupid question. What speed do you set your saw at to cut MDF? I have a Makita and at full speed (6) it often burns the edge of the MDF. I did a quick test this morning and found that at 4 & 5 I got less burning. My blade feels pretty sharp and hasn't done a ton of work. Your cuts always look perfect. Mine not so much 🙄
I really need to invest in one just waiting on a deal for the 18v makita in my opinion both are needed table saw to rip small stock but the track saw would save me having to clear a space to cut down 8x4 boards
I guess you could say your rate on track Peter ,but i didnt expect you to give the table saw the finger ,well the UK imposing fines ,i think its a case of tools and beer dont mix ,at any time ,but if they make the saw stop mandatory for everyone who makes table saws like they ve been saying ,well things will change ,and somebody will still finger out away to lose a couple ,its like putting a hot coffee between your legs and trying to drive ,why would anybody want do that ...lol
Loving the video, you've touch on one subject I was thinking of "could I do it on my mft & festool tracksaw", the half lap joint, I've got six large drawers to make, so loving that simple box you made so might give it ago, I normally use a router but this way seems quicker and cleaner!!! ,I'm using mdf and they will be painted so I won't be using dovetail joints, so episode one and I've got inspiration all ready....keep it going 🤣🤣, regarding tracksaw or table saw, I think both if you can afford it and the space, but if I had to choose one, it would be the tracksaw a bit more versatile 🤣🤣🤣, looking forward to episode 2 ,although I saw 3 early this morning I'll probably watch it again this time with wide awake eyes 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Brilliant video as a beginner. Built the box with a Makita Sp6000 from eBay. Took me a few hours, however, was really good fun. So much nicer and quicker using a Tracksaw vs using a circular saw with a homemade guide. Any tips on knowing when the blade needs sharpening? I cleaned the pitch off before starting and found as I went through the project the pitch built up quickly and cutting slowed down. Another quick question is how do you know what speed to set the saw at?
Thanks James! When the blade needs sharpening you usually get some burning/scorching along a cut, and the saw gets harder to move through the wood, also the quality of cut deteriorates; it's pretty obvious when it's happening, tbh - and keeping the blade clean helps a lot! As for saw speeds, I pretty much only use mine at full speed (11, lol!); I'd consider reducing it if I was cutting something very delicate, or something composite eg plastic, where the blade speed can melt the material rather than cut it, but for everyday use then it's full speed ahead 👍👍
Hi Peter and thanks for all this valuable information of which we all enjoy. I have never seen you with a table or mitre saw only a track saw. Have you ever owned these or used them? Can I assume this is because you only have a small workshop and would you own all these if you had the space?
I’ve worked mostly in sheet goods, I have a tracksaw and MFT, and an excellent timber yard (see latest video) that does the bulk of my board cutting. The table saw is useful for repeat narrow rips, the mitre saw for, you know, mitres and cutting small section pieces (mouldings etc..) to length. But a great local timber yard, and the MFT & tracksaw combination covers most of my cutting needs. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hi Peter and thank you so much for replying in depth. I know Fergusons well as I worked around this area for over 30 years, brilliant shop.
I have a TS55 in my workshop in France (with a few tracks and a UFT). Here in England (no space) I use an end of range Makita circular saw with a home made plywood track (many You Tube videos on that kind of thing). But MY track has a 90 degree cross piece, so breaking down full sheets is straightforward (OK I couldn't split one lengthways). I know Festool do a fancy mitre cross piece for work sites. I'm surprised no one else has given it a go (either manufacturers or RUclipsrs).
Hi Peter, great series!! Inspired me to buy my first tracksaw a Makita SP6000J, and now I've watched it all again to help me set up. One question I have though - do you cut with the material face down like you would with a circular saw? Both the scoring function on the Makita and the splinter guard on the rails left me questioning this. Also would you always use a spoiler board underneath? Does it give a cleaner cut than leaving it overhanging a workbench for example? Many thanks!!
Hi Rhodri. No, the whole idea behind tracksaws/plungesaws is that you can work face-up on boards, makes a big difference! I prefer to use a spoiler board as it helps with the dust extraction, not convinced it gives a cleaner cut though! 🤷♂️👍
![TW P2; Tracksaw basics, splinterguard trim [video #278]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/T5KpZnWo7d4/mqdefault.jpg)
![TW P2; Tracksaw basics, splinterguard trim [video #278]](/img/tr.png)
![Tablesaw or Tracksaw for Narrow Rips [video 477]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wYy2VUhBxYI/mqdefault.jpg)
![TW P4; DIY crosscut jig [video #280]](/img/1.gif)
oh my days how useful is this video!!! Days and weeks deciding to buy either a tablesaw or tracksaw and Peter shows just how versatile a track saw can be. Peter you are (still) the man!!
Several years too late for this comment but - I think for me the biggest benefit of a track saw is breaking down big panels into a safer configuration. I can't tell you the number of times I needed an 8 foot sheet of plywood broken down into a 6ft piece (off the top of my head). Running a large panel through the table saw with such a large amount of unsupported or tenuously supported material is just not safe, nor is it often very accurate. I have a nice big table saw - even still I would consider a track saw an endlessly valuable piece of equipment for any shop. Add to that the mobility of a track saw vs a cabinet saw it's my go to for projects outside of the home. This channel is a HUGE part of why I made the jump and I absolutely do not regret it.
It was long before I came across this video when I decided to invest in a track saw and a pair of guiding rails over a table saw for my home use. Since I have no dedicated space for my hobby, track saw is a real space saver, as I can put it away into my tools cabinet along with its rails as soon as a finish using it, unlike a table saw, which requires permanent storage room. And with a track saw I can easily build a compact DIY table saw for working with small parts or non-sheet material. Glad I've made a right decision.
Many thanks Peter. As a result of your comparison videos, I purchased a Titan about 6 - 8 months ago from B&Q. £70 on sale, guessing end of line but £70 including the track!?! WOW. A lot of bang for your buck. I'm only a new amateur/hobbyist/weekend woodworker trying to work out of a 4ft by 10ft shed, so I can't justify £500 on a festool. Now embarking on your Tracksaw Workshop playlist with keen anticipation.
Whilst it's impressive to see our friends over the pond making 15 foot epoxy river tables in their double garages etc, you content keeps it real for the vast majority of us. Thank you!
Thank you! Always trying to keep,it ‘relatable’ 👍👍
@peter Millard Bought my first track saw, a MacAlister one - wow to think the time I spend trying to set up straight cuts with my bosch circular saw, clamps, guides. The track saw just does it! Never knew about them till this channel and Scott Brown, great thing. Thanks for the tutorial series.
Truly grateful for all the videos you put out, but this series is the one I need in my life from tomorrow onwards. (so being able to watch the whole series in one day is just the ticket). Completing a loft conversion I started too long ago and using 12mm ply to screen water tanks etc. and access doors. I'd never heard of this exotic piece of 'quip before I saw your videos but I bought a Makita SP6000 last week, with two tracks, and I don't know how I've ever managed without one now. Thank you for all the vids you do but especially bringing TSs to my attention.
Glad to hear it Stuart, and thanks! Tracksaws are fantastic pieces of kit, and totally worth the workshop space. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop You're a good bloke and a good watch :o)
Excellent video! I've used a tracksaw for quite a while, but never thought of using it for rebates and trenches! No need to pull out the router for a small job.
‘Zactly! 👍👍
Just did a binge watch of all seven parts of this series Peter, mate, what a lot of work! My hat goes off to you, thanks very much :-) You are quite right about the table saw, it has its uses, but you can get by without one generally.
I do like the new channel logo, nothing wrong with the old one, but in the small icon it made you look like you were wearing a black pork pie hat and dare I say it, a bit more Arthur Daly like than Inspector Frost :-)
I will align the rest of my comments with the relevant parts, but thanks again for all your work on this it will be a very useful RUclips resource.
Thanks Bob! And thanks for the Arthur Daley comment - priceless, lol! Yes, the new logo - like the tracksaw workshop - has been along time coming, hope it was worth the wait! 👍👍
thank you i inherited the cf55 from a deceased family member with no instruction your video has helped me no end.
Glad it helped, thanks! 👍👍
Great video Peter. I wish I'd bought a tracksaw before I bought a cheapo table saw years ago. That thing used to frighten me to death and I was really relieved when I sold it (to a professional chippie by the way, not to another unsuspecting newbie). I took the plunge (no pun intended) and bought a Makita tracksaw 6 months ago. It was a big investment but I've never regretted it. Used it last weekend to build a shaker style cabinet door using your method and the whole thing worked a treat. Thanks Peter. Learning loads from your channel.
Glad to hear it, thanks! 👍👍
Thank you very much Peter.
Again you surprise me about yours way to introduce tools for everyday DIYers.
I can already tell I'm going to enjoy this series.
Oh Lord, I’ve just found your channel, a RUclips wormhole :-o awsome stuff.
Thanks, and welcome aboard! Be sure to check out the playlists where videos are grouped by topic or type. 👍 🙌
@@10MinuteWorkshop already there, I’m a seasoned pro!
Thanks Peter, I’ve only just discovered your channel, I’m sure I’m going to learn a lot.
Superb series this.. I’m new to the tracksaw.. this is fab content.
Thank you! 👍
Thank you for converting me to plunge saws. The cut quality is absolutely second to none: no matter how much effort I put into the best cuts on the table saw - the effect was rather mediocre. In the case of glue-ups, pristine, straight-cut lines are paramount and the track saw does offer this feature.
Just watching all 7 episodes. Great tips especially for me and my tiny workspace.
Peter thank you - ye God’s you have been busy. I have so been looking forward to this and have watched the first and will watch the rest tomorrow.👍
Thanks Norman! It’s been along time coming, hope it satisfies! 👍👍
Glad you mentioned the safety aspect there Peter. Never ceases to amaze me the shortcuts people take with Powertool’s. Great introductory video. 👍
Totally agree, the safety aspect is a real plus with the track saw.
So glad I saw this video. Thanks mate, you're a legend.
Thank you so much for your clear explanations. I don’t have space for a table saw and need to rip a lot of materials for a project so a track saw interests me.
That is honestly one of the best demonstrations of a track saw that I have seen. Very practical application of its abilities. Festool needs to take notes! I’ve been to several of their demonstrations and the just make Test cuts. Big deal😕
I used to have a hobby shop that was probably 3times the size of your pro shop. Filled with standalone tools just to play with. Sold that home and moved to smaller home where now I only have a garage. Kept my miter saw, router and bought a festool saw and mft. I’m very happy with the decision.
Thank you! 👍👍
I remember getting my makita 36v tracksaw I was so excited, I chucked in a couple of batteries pulled the trigger the blade spun then fell out on the floor 😕 so I slowed down a bit checked everything properly and its been great ever since 👍🏻
Always worth a once-over straight out of the box 🤔👍👍
U musta had the batteries in upside down andy !! 😂😂 😎👍☘️
Hi Peter and followers, i've recently purchased a 800mm rail/track from Festool for my lovely plunge saw of Makita. Works fine in my tiny workshop in combination with my (dutch invented) walko. For horizontal or (on an angle some 75 degrees) vertical use. Great to see you working and explaning all you insights, the hilarious bloopers included. we all could share a bit more of those easily made mistakes. I got a ton of it if fear. Michael from Amsterdam
Thanks Michael! Walkos were great, but very expensive over here, unfortunately. Good to hear you’re making good use of it though 👍👍
I do love the track saw. I started last year as a Handyman and in my workshop I had a good bench saw. As time went on I was needing the abilities of the bench saw on site. Debating the idea of a portable table saw or a track saw I opted for the Bosch tracksaw. So so glad I did. Door fitting and trimming became a damn sight easier. Flooring and many other jobs are easier now.
Nice video and looking forward to the rest of the series. Thank you.
Thanks! I wish I’d had one of these when I was doing handyman work 👍👍
I’m subscribed to quite a few channels on RUclips and occasionally comment. It’s nice to actually get a response from the channel owner. There is only yourself and the Gosforth handyman that appear to take time and read comments and actually respond.
Time to move my Patreon subscriptions I think.
I will follow your suggestions to buy a good track saw, I always have trouble with my small cheap table saw. Thanks so much Peter!
👍👍
Thank you, Peter! Just what I needed. M.
I started with Ebauer but short tracks put me off. Eventually I got Dewalt. Have been using it to cut doors, frames, corian shelves, you name it - as you have said - extremely versatile saw :).
Hi Peter thanks for some great tutorials. I made my first basic box using Parkside track saw (€59 in France) after watching your 20 min build. Mine took an order of magnitude greater but I'm very pleased with result, it's just for the cat. Things I learnt: 1 10mm ply is unforgiving of nails, 2 I should have done a full dry build before any gluing and handled it less , 3 I should have used oval panel pins.
I'm going to watch your how to build a box video now and see what else I should have done!
Cheers
Allen
Cheers Allen! Honestly, I’m so pleased that I was the only person to see my first box - it was terrible! 😂👍👍
Excellent. Looking forward to the rest of the series.😁
Nice video Peter. I have the dewalt flexvolt 'tracksaw' circular saw. In the UK and Europe it is track compatible but in the States its just a regular saw. I don't tend to use my plunge saw a lot but the 'tracksaw' that I have is used constantly as the ability to make quick straight cuts is well worth it.
You're the reason I now own 2 tracksaws Peter 🤣 Must say I love working with them
Only two?? 😱😂😂
@@10MinuteWorkshop I'm working on it!
Well that's an eye opener for sure !!!!
I used a circular saw today with a wooden guide, the guide slipped a bit, the saw tilted a bit... Only happened on every side of the board at least once.
If these are not common problems with a track saw then I finally understand why you are so enthusiastic.
Definitely not a common problem with tracksaws. 👍
Track saws just look more versatile than a table saw and combine it with the parf guide system is the way to go i think thanks.
Thank you.
Ok Peter. I take it all back. The fabled Tracksaw Workshop has finally arrived despite my scepticism (see earlier posts). And well worth the wait. Thank you for continuing to put such helpful content out there accessibly. I appreciate the time and effort. I’ve already bought a tracksaw on your advice and I can see it becoming the mainstay of my embryonic workshop. All the best for the year ahead.
👍👍
This is a perfect series for the beginner! Where were you when I started? By the way, does anyone want to buy my Table Saw? I have a Track Saw now.
john Frederickson how much
Hello Peter, I am fortunate enough, I guess, to have both a Festool ts55 track saw and three different length tracks plus a Scheppach ts2600ci table saw. The table saw has an excellent 'micro adjustment' facility on the sliding table that to me far exceeds the level of accuracy and repeatability you can achieve by nudging the track system. Nevertheless my MFT table and mitre fence & square system with up/down lift track is also revolutionary compared to previous woodworking methods I have used over my DIY years ! You're 10 minute videos are hugely interesting and inspiring as I still have much to learn. Thank you.
Thank you! 👍👍
OK I am convinced. I was halfway there anyway as I don't have the money for a sawstop and tablesaws scare the bejesus out of me. Pushing a blade away feels so much safer than pushing timber into a blade. I am thinking a tracksaw and a bandsaw might eliminate the need for a tablesaw completely. thanks for doing these video, regards John
Thanks for watching! yeah, although I own a tablesaw I don't use it much, and would prefer a bigger bandsaw. 🤷♂️ 👍
Great set of videos! I remember my revelation that the plunge saw replaces a table saw.
Great start. Having lost the trenching facility in my mitre saw with the move to DeWalt, I’m doing many of my dados, rebates and half laps on the track saw now, albeit for a dado/rebate cuts to the like with the saw and then a router attached to the rail to remove the waste in two passes. Anyway I’m already on the next vid... see you there.
Which DeWalt? Some do have depth stops but not as easy to set as the Festool.
@@robertyoung7827 The DeWalt DWS778-GB (240v) - other dewalts too have the feature
Bought one recently and yet to use it. This series will be very useful. I have both a table saw and a portable cirular saw and they can be tricky for large cuts, I am sure the tracksaw will be easier.
Great videos, very informative. I would argue that comparing a track saw to a table saw is a bit apples and oranges, and the best option for a pro or decent amateur would be to have both! I have a table saw as part of my Triton TWX7 table system - an excellent piece of kit for the small workshop or onsite - and I use it for much more than just ripping down ply or mdf. I do a lot of repair and splicing jobs for sash and casement windows, so it's ideal for forming the profiles of rails or stiles, eg the 15 degree slope of a sash meeting rail. It can also be used for making rabbets or to cross-cut half lap joints, plus cutting tenon shoulders. I also use it to rip down spare stock to smaller sizes, or quickly adjust skirting depth rather than plane it. Finally it's an improvised joiner when you need to straight-edge two boards and glue them together. All in all, a table saw is a versatile machine in the right hands and well worth the investment for a traditional carpenter/joiner.
Having said that, I haven't got a plunge saw, and I'm in the market for one - which is why I've ended up here. I have the occasional need to use ply for a sub-floor prior to fitting hardwood flooring; my old Bosch 110v or GKS18Vli does a decent job of ripping down the sheets with a straight edge, but my mate has just bought the Erbauer and said he wished he'd got one years ago! Let's face it we don't need much of an excuse to get more lovely kit! Cheers.
Thanks. This series is pitched at novice woodworkers picking up their plunge saw for the first time, and aimed at helping them get the best out of it, starting from when you unpack it. Yes, there are many things that a table saw can do better or easier than a plunge saw (narrow repetitive rips, cutting wedges...) and as I say in the videos, I wouldn't want to be without my table saw - but they're not the focus of this series, and were only mentioned in passing. 👍
Great video Peter. I'm fortunate to have both the Festool and mafell and wouldn't be without them. Looking forward to watching the rest of the series.
Thanks Mark! Wow, both the high end tracksaws - must be hard to choose which one to use, lol! 👍👍
Thanks Peter..
Waiting for a video in which you teach us how to cross cut 4' wide ply square with reference to base edge. I think without that this series is not complete. Thanks in anticipation.
I wish you'd made this video last year, I had to make a load of draws just like that last year but I chose the worlds most difficult method. The only thing I'd have done differently is to just rebate the base in rather than dado it. As long as the base is a good fit the glue will be more than strong enough. Really looking forward to binge watching the rest of the series now.
Okay, so this is the first time I've seen it explained that generally a tracksaw is a plunge style saw, not just a normal circular saw with bits that connect to a rail. This makes a bit of difference in my thoughts on whether to trackify my circular saw. I'm sure there would be benefits over a free hand circular saw and guide, but it may be worth it for me to look at actual tracksaw systems, now.
Yeah, the water's muddied a bit by manufacturers making circular saws that attach to guide rails. See video #378 'Skil saw or plunge saw' - ruclips.net/video/cV3DjNlZq8s/видео.html 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks! I'll definitely check it out.
Great start to the series. Looking forward to part 2!
If you want the miter sloped towards saw, you can flip the board over!
Don't forget make allowance for the reversed miter width.😎😎😎😎
No table saw needed!
Can’t bevel one edge of e.g. a 100mm square post with a tracksaw. Sadly.
Now i know why a video was deleted,fancy posting number 5 first! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Scheduling snafu - #3 went out at 7.00am - but not for long 🙄😱😆👍
I watched it at 7 then I'm like weird why he's starting at 3 😂😂😂
Great start to the series, Peter; I really enjoyed the tray demo.
I wish these videos had been around a couple of years ago when I was humming and hawing over my own tracksaw purchase - it would have made the decision much easier!
Looking forward to binge-watching the other parts now :-)
Cheers Eddy! 👍👍
Another great video........ keep them coming.....!
Thanks for these videos. They’ve really helped dispel the notion that one “needs” a table saw in the hobbyist workshop.
1. Have you done a video or have info in deciding between the TS 55 vs the TS 75?
2. What length of track would you recommend to start with, especially for those replacing their table saw with a track saw? (Cutting wood from plywood sizes to cutting board thicknesses and hoping to incorporate your jigs)
Thank you so much Peter
Thank you! No, I’ve never used a TS75, and honestly if you need the extra depth of cut then you probably know it already. It is a heavier saw, with a longer baseplate too, so if you want to start / finish a cut with the saw fully plunged you’ll need a longer rail.
As to rail lengths, I cut an awful
lot of material with just a pair of 1400 rails when I first has the saw, but if you have the funds and the space to store it, I’d recommend a long rail for cutting full sheets. I bought the Makita 3-metre rail because they were a fraction of the price of the Festool, though the difference is less marked these days. And worth having a shorter rail too, for smaller pieces - an 800 or 1080. Actually Incut my 3-metre rail into a 2100/900 which has worked very well. HTH! P
Amazing! Thank you. You’ve really opened up a whole new world.
👍👍
I think track saws are the great unsung heroes of the small workshop, and even medium sized workshops where you might consider a panel saw with sliding table. Sliding tables rob you of half a workshop, and for the amount of use it is likely to get, an unnecessary waste of space at that. For my money, jobsite saws are perfect in a garage size home workshops, coupled with a decent track saw. I use the Bosch GKS 18V-68 GC (I believe any of the Bosh saws with 'G' designation will work on their track). My saw does not have all the features your Festool does, but it is possibly more versatile. I would never do without my DeWalt tablesaw though. It has rack and pinion fence that always stays perfectly aligned with the blade, and always cuts exactly to the size indicated, and that is true even when the fence is removed and replaced. I have a ton of jigs for the table saw that a track saw couldn't come close to duplicating. Horses for courses, but if I could only have one, it would be the table saw. BTW I found it frustrating waiting for you to stop talking and demonstrate something useful. Just saying but it was getting pretty boring.
You know some folks find what I'm saying to be quite useful too, especially for a novice, who this series was aimed at when I made them. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. 👍
great video Peter, I watched part 4 first by mistake haha ,
In theory they should work in any order, but 1-7 usually works best 😂👍👍
Fantastic advice and very interesting!
About time Millard lad... 😒
Lookin forward to watchin the rest of the series Pete, I bought a Scheppach tracksaw (looks like the thumbnail model) online from Germany last year but haven't had much of a chance to use in it in anger yet.
There are "tune-up" vids out there & one big thing is to get a lighter spring... I haven't done that yet but boy does it need it. I also have one of those little Lidl tablesaws which is quite handy but I'd be afraid to put an 8 by 4 sheet on it !😅😅
Okay lads... lets DO this 👍😎☘
Edit...
Just wanna also say thanks for all the links you put in the description box... I did have to do a double-take on the Steam Roller 😅😅😅
😂😂👍👍
You're good people, Peter.
I try 😂👍👍 And thanks!
Great overview Peter, looking forward to watching the others over the weekend, but I
better get back to work now :)
Cheers Nick - and yeah, that ’work’ stuff sure gets in the way... 😂👍
Peter. I've been enjoying and learning a lot from your videos. Can you possibly advise me about dust. I bought a Macallister saw on your recommendation, have taped an old credit card over the side window and tried connecting the saw to a shop vac and a Henry. They may be extracting some dust but there are huge clouds of sawdust blown out to the front of the saw when cutting. I am thinking of getting your Sheppach bust collector and rigging up some sort of funnel ahead of the saw but I notice that your saws never seem to cause this problem. It would be great to have your thoughts on the best dust control for the tracks. Thanks
Hi James. The dust collection is one of the things that does improve as you get further up the price scale, but I can’t say I’ve experienced what you’re describing when I’ve used the MacAllister, Titan or Parkside saws - all of a similar type and price point. I wonder if there’s some kind of internal blockage that might be restricting the airflow? I had this once on my Festool saw where a fine piece of shaving worked it’s way into the blade housing and partially blocked the hose outlet; might be worth a quick look, if you feel like tinkering with it? The blade guard/saw side is usually just screwed on, so easy enough to get into to take a look. But that’s all I can think of for now, as to what might be a cause. Let me know how you get on. Thanks Peter
Id love more info on how you dod that tray . I have a track saw and am new to this lark but am very impressed with your video. Thank you
Thanks, but there's really not much more to say about the tray other than what was shown in this video, or in the previous video (#131) if you wanted to do it 'properly' ie not as a tracksaw project. HTH P
Wow!
I only just saw this video, now. And I have got to say Peter, I wish I'd seen this video before.
The first saw I got was circular saw, which I build into a diy table saw. And I have all the problems you adressed, and more. Breaking down large sheets are a nightmare, I struggle to get square crosscuts on large pieces, and being a diy saw - there is neither a blade guard, nor a riving knife.
Sadly, there is a real lack of reasonably priced tracksaws here in Norway. There are some cheap ones, but they use a system where you attach the saw to a sled, that again rides on the rail. And these have gotten really bad reviews. I am trying to get by using another cheap circular saw that just bought today, but the my initial tests are not promising. However, we shall see how this all turns out.
Again, great video. Very educational/informative as well as entertaining. Luckily there are 6 more ;-)
Thanks for the great content.
Thanks Goran! All my tracksaw / plunge saw videos are in a playlist, btw - keeps everything together, and in order. Enjoy! 👍👍
omg i want one!
Thanks Peter
Do you put some kind of base down so that as you cut you’re cutting a little into the base? I please explain the whole process
Nice one as I bought an Aldi tracksaw for crimbo and been waiting for this since you mentioned it on your podcast.
Not used it much but rails seem smooth and sticks to boards ok. Also made your cross cut jig to work with it too. (the old one that uses the track)
Really useful video thanks!
I love my Evolution Table saw with the collapsible stand. But if I can exchange its floorspace with a track saw.......... hmmmmmmm
Just bought a table saw. Wish I’d seen this vid. first!
The festool saw is actually a pivot saw the dewalt is on piston type rams that plunge down not that I'm a know it all lol
Hi Peter, great video as usual.
Have you used or heard of people using the Rutlands brand plunge saw?
Priced aroudn £170, I wonder if this is worth the extra over the Mac Alister?
Thanks
Hi Gary. Never had hands-on with one, but visually it’s very similar to the Einhell and Parkside. Can’t say wether or not it has the same issue as those saws re the wider baseplate or not though. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you for the super quick response, much appreciated and please keep up the videos. They are very interesting and entertaining. My wife may not agree but I like them!
Thanks Peter. I think the domino will be the next purchase. 👍
👍👍
Thanks I’ve been waiting for this episode and guess what it’s like those London buses wait long enough and you don’t get just one but a a long line of them.
Haha! Actually London buses aren’t bad these days - they still
turn up in threes, but to a timetable 😂😂
Peter Millard here in Birmingham they also come in 3’s but never to the timetables
For me the main Reason to get a table saw in addiontion to my Tracksaw was to cut small workpieces. Even with small workspace i think to way to go is a combination of a (cheap) tablesaw and a tracksaw.
Same 👍 Still use my tracksaw 20x more than my tablesaw though 👍👍
Thanks Peter for the time and effort you've taken to put together this series of videos. Hopefully I'll have the confidence to start using my Lidl track saw that's still sitting in its box. Slightly confused by RUclips recommended which put video 7 up first in my case that's algorithms for you!!
Thanks! There’s a playlist with them all in order - link in the video description, along with lots of others! bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop 👍👍
03:40 And FESTOOL's tiny window comes in really handy.
Peter, it's not very clear to me why you consider a track saw to be so superior to, say, a table saw. It seems to me that the most significant cause of error is aligning the edge of the track to the line to be cut.
As far as I can see, this can only be done by eye-balling it, unless you have an expensive alignment jig. With a table saw, you can either a) set the fence accurately using the fence adjustment or b) set the fence using a gauge block of some kind (maybe just a wooden offcut, in the most primitive case.) The table saw fence, once set, gives repeatable cuts.
Now, I don't own a track saw, but I do have a home-brew track saw jig (a wooden sled in which my circular saw sits, and a track made from a piece of t-and-g flooring with an aluminium u-channel guide along which the sled slides) so I am very used to the problem of aligning to a pencil line. I can't see that an expensive track saw would alleviate this problem any better than my own jig.
Am I missing something obvious?
Nice one Peter
I just started watching your tracksaw series and I agree that it is definitely a safer way to start for beginning wood workers. One thing that sprung to mind when watching this video is that it appears the offcuts are sized to the desired width. For splinterfree cuts, that would need to be the side where the track is on. Am I wrong or do you indeed work with the offcuts and is the tearout acceptable for your demonstration?
I'm sorry, I don't understand 'offcuts are sized to the desired width'; the rail rests on the workpiece, the offcut is to the right of the splinter-guard. Unless you're deliberately making a waste-side cut - where the piece you want to keep is to the right of the saw - then the offcuts will be whatever size remains. I typically get very little tearout on the waste-side with the saw that I use commercially, if that helps.
@@10MinuteWorkshop That was indeed what I meant. To me it appeared that the right side of your cut was sized to the width you wanted, but that may just have been my impression. Thank you for your reply.
Excellent video
Thanks! 👍
Wow!! Why on earth didn't I ever think of using my plunge saw for trench cutting instead of always getting the router out? I do it all the time using the trenching stops on my two mitre saws - but this is just SO OBVIOUS !!!! *Facepalm*
👍👍
Enjoying the plunge saw vids , was wondering if you could do a review on the Erbauer saw understandably you are possibly done with plunge saws and inundated with requests 👍
I’ve had the Erbauer on my list for ages, just haven’t got around to it yet. By all accounts it’s a decent saw. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Superb looking forward to that before I purchase, Erbauer tools in general seem to have good reviews but I wouldn't necessarily believe all RUclipsrs if you know what I mean 👍
Thank you, Peter, for this excellent series on the track saw 👍👍
BTW, is there any reason that you know why track saws are always left handed? Stupid question probably, but it’s not obvious to me…
Thanks you for not only the “big” tips, but also the small, not so obvious ones (that wouldn’t occur to me but are genius although obvious too, like how to check if the cut is square in Part-3. Awesome! -Tip, see how-to readjust squareness in Part-4 video.).
It seems to me that you’ve got a nice intuitive ability in geometry 😉👍
Thanks Ernesto! Yes, it’s an odd one; most cordless saws are right-handed, I’ve discovered! The only right-handed corded tracksaw I know of is the Kreg - and we don’t get that here in the UK. 🤷♂️👍
Hi Pete what hinge system do you use for fold down track.can’t seem to find it in any of your videos. Keep up the good work
Hi Paul. It’s an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-function table & the hinged rail comes as standard. See videos #182 and #183 for more details. 👍
Video 182 ruclips.net/video/0V-p5F7SjO4/видео.html
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you for reply looks like it’s out of stock from link ill keep looking 👍
What is the negative 1 degree angle bevel cut used for on these saws?
Nice video - just bought the Schleppach PL55 and need to get going. Looking forward to see the next videos. I have not considered using it "on top of the table" as you do (cutting shallow trails in the table too). What type of board is it you use on the table top?
Thanks. The full tracksaw workshop series was released a couple of years ago - there’s a playlist with all Tracksaw workshop episodes in order, and all tracksaw-related videos here - bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop The bench top covering is just scrap MDF, but you can use whatever you have - it’s just to protect the surface. 👍
Just learning about track saws. Is the "keeper" piece the one under the track saw? All the videos I see they put a measurement mark on the board and aline the track to the cut. and make the cut. if you have a 4x4 sheet good and need a 2 inch piece, does that mean the track has to be on the 2 inch piece? If the track is on the large piece I think your small piece would be off by the width of the blade kerf. If the track has to be on the small piece I would think you have shim up the track so it is stable. Thanks for the videos.
Most of the time the guiderail rests on the workpiece, and the splinterguard is on your cutline; the waste piece is to the right. Occasionally for narrow cuts, you'll make a waste-side cut where the workpiece is to the right of the saw, so you need to allow for the blade kerf; there are simple jigs available for this. 👍
Thanks, I appreciate the response.
Got mine, Currently £59.00 in bury st Edmunds Suffolk
I have a stupid question. What speed do you set your saw at to cut MDF? I have a Makita and at full speed (6) it often burns the edge of the MDF. I did a quick test this morning and found that at 4 & 5 I got less burning. My blade feels pretty sharp and hasn't done a ton of work. Your cuts always look perfect. Mine not so much 🙄
Usually full speed (11 😂) Seriously, I don’t think I’ve ever used anything but full whack. 👍
I really need to invest in one just waiting on a deal for the 18v makita in my opinion both are needed table saw to rip small stock but the track saw would save me having to clear a space to cut down 8x4 boards
I guess you could say your rate on track Peter ,but i didnt expect you to give the table saw the finger ,well the UK imposing fines ,i think its a case of tools and beer dont mix ,at any time ,but if they make the saw stop mandatory for everyone who makes table saws like they ve been saying ,well things will change ,and somebody will still finger out away to lose a couple ,its like putting a hot coffee between your legs and trying to drive ,why would anybody want do that ...lol
😂 Too right Syd! And look - I have both thumbs as welll! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop lol
Great videos very informative. On a side note Peter what is the hinge you have on your track on the mft?
Thanks Ricky. The hinged rail comes as standard on the Festool MFT. 👍👍
interesting video, nice one
Loving the video, you've touch on one subject I was thinking of "could I do it on my mft & festool tracksaw", the half lap joint, I've got six large drawers to make, so loving that simple box you made so might give it ago, I normally use a router but this way seems quicker and cleaner!!! ,I'm using mdf and they will be painted so I won't be using dovetail joints, so episode one and I've got inspiration all ready....keep it going 🤣🤣, regarding tracksaw or table saw, I think both if you can afford it and the space, but if I had to choose one, it would be the tracksaw a bit more versatile 🤣🤣🤣, looking forward to episode 2 ,although I saw 3 early this morning I'll probably watch it again this time with wide awake eyes 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
👍👍
Brilliant video as a beginner. Built the box with a Makita Sp6000 from eBay. Took me a few hours, however, was really good fun.
So much nicer and quicker using a Tracksaw vs using a circular saw with a homemade guide.
Any tips on knowing when the blade needs sharpening? I cleaned the pitch off before starting and found as I went through the project the pitch built up quickly and cutting slowed down.
Another quick question is how do you know what speed to set the saw at?
Thanks James! When the blade needs sharpening you usually get some burning/scorching along a cut, and the saw gets harder to move through the wood, also the quality of cut deteriorates; it's pretty obvious when it's happening, tbh - and keeping the blade clean helps a lot! As for saw speeds, I pretty much only use mine at full speed (11, lol!); I'd consider reducing it if I was cutting something very delicate, or something composite eg plastic, where the blade speed can melt the material rather than cut it, but for everyday use then it's full speed ahead 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Going to 11 then :-)
Thanks for the help,
Hi Peter and thanks for all this valuable information of which we all enjoy. I have never seen you with a table or mitre saw only a track saw. Have you ever owned these or used them? Can I assume this is because you only have a small workshop and would you own all these if you had the space?
Hi, and thanks! I do have a small workshop, and I do own both a mitre saw and table saw - I just don’t use them much! 👍👍
But what is the reason you dont use them much?
I’ve worked mostly in sheet goods, I have a tracksaw and MFT, and an excellent timber yard (see latest video) that does the bulk of my board cutting. The table saw is useful for repeat narrow rips, the mitre saw for, you know, mitres and cutting small section pieces (mouldings etc..) to length. But a great local timber yard, and the MFT & tracksaw combination covers most of my cutting needs. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
Hi Peter and thank you so much for replying in depth. I know Fergusons well as I worked around this area for over 30 years, brilliant shop.
I have a TS55 in my workshop in France (with a few tracks and a UFT). Here in England (no space) I use an end of range Makita circular saw with a home made plywood track (many You Tube videos on that kind of thing). But MY track has a 90 degree cross piece, so breaking down full sheets is straightforward (OK I couldn't split one lengthways). I know Festool do a fancy mitre cross piece for work sites. I'm surprised no one else has given it a go (either manufacturers or RUclipsrs).
Can you explain the 90 degree crosspiece Stephen? Not sure I follow?? Thanks. 👍👍
Think he's talking about the hk55 and cross cut rail system not sure tho 🙄
I have a photo but how do I send it?
@@stephenshipley1066 Thanks Stephen; you can email me - link in the 'about' section of the channel home page 👍
Hi Peter, great series!! Inspired me to buy my first tracksaw a Makita SP6000J, and now I've watched it all again to help me set up. One question I have though - do you cut with the material face down like you would with a circular saw? Both the scoring function on the Makita and the splinter guard on the rails left me questioning this. Also would you always use a spoiler board underneath? Does it give a cleaner cut than leaving it overhanging a workbench for example? Many thanks!!
Hi Rhodri. No, the whole idea behind tracksaws/plungesaws is that you can work face-up on boards, makes a big difference! I prefer to use a spoiler board as it helps with the dust extraction, not convinced it gives a cleaner cut though! 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Great! Thank you very much for the advice! Really enjoyed your latest series too, best tutorials out there!