My sofa would only work one way, so suspected only one relay was broken. I took it apart and replaced both relays - bought of EBay for £2.76. I have since removed the plastic case on the old relays and compared the contacts. One is clearly burnt out. Thanks for the video, really helpful and saved my £150 on a new motor assembly.
Thank you so much David!!!! You saved a mountain of headache (specifically "spec'ing" out the relays for me) because I didn't even know where to start! Thank you again!
Knowledge is power. I woulda had to throw the thing out. I bought a recliner for my mom ( brand new ) but the motor don't work. Thanks to RUclips and you I gonna give it a try.
I took my actuator apart today:, the screw which the shuttle rides upon as it turns had a bunch of "stuff" (hair, cloth fibers, animal fur, stuff packed in a glob of grease) wrapped around it. So, I cleaned up everything with car parts cleaner, and re-greased everything that moves with left over brake caliper grease, put it back together - viola, working again! I think that contamination, and maybe lack of proper lubrication was causing it to fail? And, there wasn't a circuit board in there, so no relays to check and switch, just 2 micro-limit switched in the a actuator arm, which I cleaned up too! That was easy, and cheap! Dave, doing Dave things!
That's great! I hate throwing things away that are still good. The limit switches may also have been causing problems; I've seen that recently on my actuator. Cleaning solved that problem. Thanks for watching!
Update: Day after "fixing" (cleaned up) my actuator, it worked a few times, then the next morning it stopped working again! Only the extension button, so I think it's a switch problem! So, I've ordered a new switch pad with USB and Bud Lite, it'll be here Sunday (2 days, via Amazon $22). See what happens after installing the new Switch! *BLUE LIGHT! How many caught that?
Thanks for the video David! I have a different problem... My Okin Model JLDQ-1A linear actuator failed with the couch in the upright position and it won't recline. Nothing happens when I press the switches on the couch. Long story short, I took the actuator apart and found that a limit switch failed (both NO and NC contacts shorted to common all the time), so the couch thinks it is both upright and fully reclined at the same time, and won't budge. The limit switch is not too hard to replace, you just have to take the whole actuator apart, remove the switch, desolder and resolder the wires to a new one. I'm trying to source a new limit switch right now, and can't find one with the right button height. The switch part number is KW12-5, and I have checked Digikey, Mouser, etc and cannot locate it. Most of the switches that I see at distributors have metal levers that press the button. The ones with just a button don't have the right button height. The right height is 2.75mm as measured from the top of the button to the top of the switch housing, in the non-actuated position). I bought 10 buttons for $6.99 from Amazon that have the metal lever, and broke off the lever, but the button height is too short. This is the red button shown in the picture (the OEM button has the yellow/orange actuator). I glued a piece of plastic on the switch from Amazon to increase the height, but I don't have hopes that this is a durable solution. The height is pretty critical. Too tall and the actuator sliding over the button might break the button rather than press it. Too short, and the actuator won't press the button far enough to actuate it. I'm contacting Okin, but I'm not too hopeful that they will provide parts or divulge their sources for the switches. I have two actuators that are bad on two couches. I don't really feel like spending $400 on two new actuators for a $5 part.... If you have any insight into where I can source these switches, it will save me hundreds! Your help is greatly appreciated! My email: miller863 at hotmail (I separated so the bots would not grab my email address)
I'm sorry; but I don't have a source for the limit switches. Perhaps you can modify one of the Amazon switches by drilling and tapping a little screw into the end of the button. I think that might last longer than relying on glue alone. You could epoxy the screw in place once you get the height adjusted correctly.
I worked in the industry for 25years and the "Normal" problem is the limit switches when it only say goes up but not down, you'll notice that there are diodes attached to them that whenthe switch is pressed won't allow the circuit to complete. and after either contamination or the grease in the switch hardens it will only allow for one mode of travel. I assume since you own an osilliscope you know what you are doing, but it wasn't clear from the video that you rulled that out first. hope that might be helpfull to someone with the more common problem.
That's a good point. Yes, I had a couple weeks of experience where I had to click the switch a couple times to "tickle" the relay. I did check the continuity of the limit switches; but I didn't cover it in the video since it was pretty "messy". Thanks for the comments!
@@Handygrrl Um its in line with a leg from the switch . so lets say the up button is has positive electricity on the blue wire and negative on the brown, but the down button is positive on the brown wire and negative on the blue, so if the limit switch is clicked the diode only allows power flow in one direction so you can complete the circuit. so what happens the grease hardens so the switch never goes to the open position and allows that power flow in that direction. side note if this is the case sometime hitting with a rubber mallet releases the switch, but it will get stuck again in cold weather. so a permanent fix is to strip the grease off of all the guts and switches with an electronic safe solvent with it un powered and then test the switches once they are good then regrease the acme thread with high quality synthetic grease.
I have a two yr old electric recliner with an actuator that looks much like yours except that a collar fell off the back of the actuator which keeps the chair from reclining from full extension otherwise ok.I got the chair after back surgery so I haven’t been able to do much yet and of course the warranty is more of a hassle than you can imagine.I probably just need to bite the bullet and take it apart
The end that holds the screw can break if the limit switches are not functioning properly. The motor is so powerful that it will just crank the back end plate off. I would suggest getting it repaired under warranty if possible since it seems that the chair actuator manufacturers discontinue models often and the only way to get parts is under warranty
I’m sorry I completely forgot the most important part,it looks like it fell straight down to the floor from the back of the actuator where it held something in place.it fell off because the set screw on the collar was never tightened at the factory.what ever it holds in place is what’s keeping it from operating correctly.3/4 extension is ok but go farther and you’re in trouble but after watching some videos I can pretty much see what needs done.I just have to wait for a day I feel good enough and dive in but than you for a quick response.if I can’t figure it out I may try the warranty again but we did that once and I think it’s a complete scam type warranty.again thanks
I wanna thank for just showing me a picture of what it looks like when its bolted in properly so i can sort it out. I got one one these sofas used and never owned one before. Well this thing is all backwards and actuator not bolted to anything lol.. Thanks again
Thank you. I have a corollary video on troubleshooting the actuator circuitry that might be helpful ( ruclips.net/video/diehiXWF4pc/видео.html ). Thanks for watching!
Update: I took my actuator apart today:, the screw which the shuttle rides upon as it turns had a bunch of "stuff" (hair, cloth fibers, animal fur, stuff packed in a glob of grease) wrapped around it. So, I cleaned up everything with car parts cleaner, and re-greased everything that moves with left over brake caliper grease, put it back together - viola, working again! I think that contamination, and maybe lack of proper lubrication was causing it to fail? And, there wasn't a circuit board in there, so no relays to check and switch, just 2 micro-limit switched in the a actuator arm, which I cleaned up too! That was easy, and cheap!
My neighbor call me to look at his recliner. Found that the problem. It was the one wire going to the limit switch. Not a complete broken wire. I rig it for now so it would work. Still searching on how to remove the pin out of the limit switch.
I don't even see the circuit board on my okin actuator. Would it be in the metal tube somewhere? I do see the two limit switches in the tube. Defective limit switches perhaps? Mine would extend but not contract then wouldn't move at all. Perhaps the circuit board resides outside this unit. I saw a circuit board attached to the control switches on the couch side. By the way I ordered a new actuator and t works fine. This is why I suspect the limit switch in actuator are faulty
I'm not familiar with that unit. But it could use just limit switches and buttons for motor control with no relay. This means that the full motor current would flow through the switches. They would then be subject to the same contact deterioration as the relay on my actuator. Bad limit switches seem very possible. Thanks for the comment!
@@1232bluejays If it doesn't work at all; you could use a continuity tester to check the switches when open and closed. If they are flaky testing is more difficult. Good luck!
Does the screw turn? If not, the coupling between the motor and screw is broken. If it does, then the nut that moves up and down the slide could be stripped. Good luck!
Hello David! This is a great video! I have a question and wondered if it would be possible for me to email you? I have what I believe is the same exact linear actuator but it's for a different recliner. I just want to make sure that when I'm buying the relays that I'm buying the correct ones. I figured it might be easier for me to just send you a photo to see if you could help me make sure that they are the in fact the right ones?
Hello @lifewithdavid1 I purchased the correct relays from digi-key and soldered them on to the PCB. Unfortunately it did not work. Do you have any other suggestions as to what it might be or how else I can troubleshoot it
I would start by checking the power supply. Does the power brick work; and is power getting to the actuator? Suspect bad wire or connectors. Then do the relays click when the up/down buttons are pushed? If not, it could be the connection between the buttons and the actuator; again wire or connector. Or maybe one button is stuck closed and the limit switch is holding it out. If the relays do click, then check the motor. Manually move it to the middle of the stroke and then tap power directly to the motor. Be careful to only tap the power for a very short time since you are bypassing the limit switches and can easily blow out the end of the housing (don't ask me how I know). If the motor is OK, then check the limit switches. They could be locking out the motor. Hope this helps and good luck! @@josiahsdays
Hi Jimmy. Great video. Thank you! I have a different problem you might have suggestions on. My recliner chair goes up and down fine, but when the back is reclined it creeps back up. In seconds it’s back to the upright position. If laying flat out it stays, but if it’s just partially leaning it won’t hold. Do you think it’s a possible fix. So far I haven’t been able to find the actuator that replaces it 😡 Thank yiu in advance
Is it a power recliner? If so, then maybe there is a broken bolt between the back mechanism and the seat. I've had a couple bolts break in the past; which causes the seat mechanism to act strangely. Good luck!
@@LifewithDavid1 yes it’s power. I we were going to replace the actuator because chair is only 2 years old but am hoping it’s fixable. I hadn’t noticed any broken bolts but will inspect much closer. Thank you
There is a link to DigiKey in the description. It's for the relay; they have other electronic components; but probably not direct replacement motors. I'm not sure where to get those; you might be able to cobble something together. Good luck!
Hi Dave, I am having the same problem on my Berkline recliner. I switched the power supply from another chair with the same problem , only goes in one direction. It is a Ciar Jldq linear actuator. Who can iI have fix the LA because they are no longer available to buy?
I know; it's hard to find someone to work on these; that's why I did it myself. If you can find someone that is willing to get into the nitty-gritty of the repair, I have another video that might help ( ruclips.net/video/diehiXWF4pc/видео.html ). Also you might be able to find a furniture repair person; they might have access to replacement actuators. It sounds like either a bad relay or a funky limit switch. Good luck!
Unfortunately, I didn't find them at the CIAR web site. I believe mine came as part of the entire frame and I don't think it was sold separately. That's why I had to fix it myself or else replace the chair. Sorry :-(
Any chance you can provide the size of what appears to be a fuse just left of the 6 pin connector on the board as oriented the same way as your video. I have the same model and can’t find the diagram.
I checked detailed photos that I took of the circuit board. There are no fuses, just 4 diodes. I think they are 1N4007, a standard 1A, 1000V diode. I have uploaded the front and back of the circuit board to Github for you. The foil side has been flipped so it should overlay the component side. This should make it easy to reverse engineer a schematic. github.com/LifeWithDavid/Recliner-Chair-Lift-Photos.git Good luck!
Hello, My electric Linear Actuator has a 5 pin male connector. Somehow this actuator is hard to find a replacement. I ordered a linear actuator from amazon but noticed its a 5 pin female connector. This product does not work for my recliner because it has 5 pin female connector on the back of my recliner. Help! Where do I find the right 5 pin male connector? Do I have to replace the entire system from the back of my recliner? Thanks Juan
I guess would just make up 5 individual short male to male jumpers. Then I would plug them between the appropriate female positions. You can tape it all together when it works like you want. You'll need the pinout of the new connector (and the old one too) so you can get the wires to the proper spot. It seems every actuator has their own connector. Good luck!
Hey David, I have a question about that white plastic part on the reclining part of the couch. I was wondering what the name of that part was or how I could replace one?
It might be called a drive nut. Unfortunately, this part is specific to each drive model; you have to get it from the manufacturer. If it's broken and you can't get a replacement from the original supplier, that is usually a fatal flaw; and the whole drive unit has to be replaced. Good luck!
thanks for the video, my lineal actuator look sealed, no screws to disassembly, any tips to disassembly, look like glue residues, anybody disassembly with dremel or heatgun?
Glued plastic joints are tough. I've had a little luck in using a sharp chisel along the glue line if the glue isn't really strong. However, it can cause cracking. In that event, cutting the case along the glue line with a Dremmel saw is about all you can do. Resign yourself that you may have to repair using a high build glue like epoxy. Good luck!
That's a tough one. I looked into buying a new actuator, and it was impossible even from the same manufacturer. I believe the chair manufacturers buy the entire frame and actuator as a package from the actuator manufacturers. They all have proprietary controls and linkages. You would need the stroke, and actuator force. Good luck; it is not a trivial task.
Unfortunately, no I don't. There are several things it could be, the limit micro switch moving or not working, a jammed mechanism, even a loose pivot connection with too much slop in the footrest extend mechanism. Your best bet is to get close to the mechanism and have someone open and close it while you observe the operation to see what's going on. Good luck!
I bought my relays at DigiKey. Make sure the relays you get meet or exceed the ratings of the one currently in your chair. Here is a link to the one I bought for my chair: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G5LE-1-DC24/280367
can anybody help me trouble shoot? my buttons gives power to the motor and the motor continues to make a small click sound if I keep the switches pressed, where do start to trouble shoot?
I'm working on a troubleshooting video; but it won't be ready for a few weeks. In the meantime, try this. If you hear a click (from the relays) when each button is pushed, then the button circuits work. If you rapidly cycle the buttons and you sometimes get movement; then a relay may be bad. If you VERY QUICKLY touch the motor leads to the power, and the motor doesn't turn; then the motor is probably bad. If the motor is good; then one of the limit switches may be bad. Good luck!
Great video. Just got a lazy boy powered recliner couch for but the right side is intermittent with the buttons. Thanks to the video that's probably the first thing I will check. When you tested it with the multimeter what connections were you testing from?
It could be that there is a short in the power head. Or a stuck relay. This could drag down the voltage and the light would go out. In fact, when I push either of the buttons, the light goes out. Hope this helps.
I bought mine from DigiKey. Make sure you match the size and ratings for your chair. Here's the link to the ones I bought for my chair: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G5LE-14-DC24/280370?Relays&Dynamic%20Search_EN_RLSA&Relays&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy4eNBhCaARIsAFDVtI0AA5-9_cgJAWGx_-dnOHxMmit8r3n0tqRDxDSPCrukGRAfy7mcbxUaAs7SEALw_wcB
I'm sorry for that. You can get them at Harbor Freight at a reasonable price. However, you should practice a little before you attempt to work on a circuit board. Maybe you have a friend that can help you. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
They are not as available as you would think. I would have liked to have replaced mine; but I couldn't get one. Also, if you can get them they are very expensive; the relay was only $4.
@@tomb9758 I see that. That's a relatively recent development. Don't forget new buttons and a power supply. Recliner mechanism manufacturer don't seem to have standards; it seems each system has it's own plugs and mounting hardware. Good luck!
Check out my recent recliner video for more theory of operations and troubleshooting tips! ruclips.net/video/diehiXWF4pc/видео.html
My sofa would only work one way, so suspected only one relay was broken. I took it apart and replaced both relays - bought of EBay for £2.76. I have since removed the plastic case on the old relays and compared the contacts. One is clearly burnt out. Thanks for the video, really helpful and saved my £150 on a new motor assembly.
Fantastic! Glad it helped.
Thank you so much David!!!! You saved a mountain of headache (specifically "spec'ing" out the relays for me) because I didn't even know where to start! Thank you again!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Knowledge is power. I woulda had to throw the thing out. I bought a recliner for my mom ( brand new ) but the motor don't work. Thanks to RUclips and you I gonna give it a try.
Great. Good luck to you!
I took my actuator apart today:, the screw which the shuttle rides upon as it turns had a bunch of "stuff" (hair, cloth fibers, animal fur, stuff packed in a glob of grease) wrapped around it.
So, I cleaned up everything with car parts cleaner, and re-greased everything that moves with left over brake caliper grease, put it back together - viola, working again!
I think that contamination, and maybe lack of proper lubrication was causing it to fail?
And, there wasn't a circuit board in there, so no relays to check and switch, just 2 micro-limit switched in the a actuator arm, which I cleaned up too!
That was easy, and cheap!
Dave, doing Dave things!
That's great! I hate throwing things away that are still good. The limit switches may also have been causing problems; I've seen that recently on my actuator. Cleaning solved that problem. Thanks for watching!
Update: Day after "fixing" (cleaned up) my actuator, it worked a few times, then the next morning it stopped working again! Only the extension button, so I think it's a switch problem! So, I've ordered a new switch pad with USB and Bud Lite, it'll be here Sunday (2 days, via Amazon $22). See what happens after installing the new Switch!
*BLUE LIGHT! How many caught that?
Thank you very much David! It seems I've got this kind of problem as I've already checked the switch and the battery pack. To be follow....
Good luck. I hope it is the relay, every thing else is more expensive and a bigger pain in the rear end to fix.
Very informative and clear video indeed. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thank you awesome video I'm always wanting to learn
Thank you. I hope it was useful.
Thanks a lot. It gives me the confidence to try agin repairing my recliner.
Happy to help. Good luck!
Thanks for the video David! I have a different problem... My Okin Model JLDQ-1A linear actuator failed with the couch in the upright position and it won't recline. Nothing happens when I press the switches on the couch. Long story short, I took the actuator apart and found that a limit switch failed (both NO and NC contacts shorted to common all the time), so the couch thinks it is both upright and fully reclined at the same time, and won't budge. The limit switch is not too hard to replace, you just have to take the whole actuator apart, remove the switch, desolder and resolder the wires to a new one. I'm trying to source a new limit switch right now, and can't find one with the right button height. The switch part number is KW12-5, and I have checked Digikey, Mouser, etc and cannot locate it. Most of the switches that I see at distributors have metal levers that press the button. The ones with just a button don't have the right button height. The right height is 2.75mm as measured from the top of the button to the top of the switch housing, in the non-actuated position). I bought 10 buttons for $6.99 from Amazon that have the metal lever, and broke off the lever, but the button height is too short. This is the red button shown in the picture (the OEM button has the yellow/orange actuator). I glued a piece of plastic on the switch from Amazon to increase the height, but I don't have hopes that this is a durable solution. The height is pretty critical. Too tall and the actuator sliding over the button might break the button rather than press it. Too short, and the actuator won't press the button far enough to actuate it. I'm contacting Okin, but I'm not too hopeful that they will provide parts or divulge their sources for the switches. I have two actuators that are bad on two couches. I don't really feel like spending $400 on two new actuators for a $5 part.... If you have any insight into where I can source these switches, it will save me hundreds! Your help is greatly appreciated! My email: miller863 at hotmail (I separated so the bots would not grab my email address)
I'm sorry; but I don't have a source for the limit switches. Perhaps you can modify one of the Amazon switches by drilling and tapping a little screw into the end of the button. I think that might last longer than relying on glue alone. You could epoxy the screw in place once you get the height adjusted correctly.
just fyi, my cases were the limit micro switches(upper limit and lower limit) stuck, need to replace that tiny switches
That's too bad. I didn't do any research on replacing those. Good luck!
GREAT VIDEO DAVID
Thank you!
Great video.
Could you please give us a link or data for which relays are needed?
The link is in the description. I got mine at DigiKey. Good luck!
I worked in the industry for 25years and the "Normal" problem is the limit switches when it only say goes up but not down, you'll notice that there are diodes attached to them that whenthe switch is pressed won't allow the circuit to complete. and after either contamination or the grease in the switch hardens it will only allow for one mode of travel. I assume since you own an osilliscope you know what you are doing, but it wasn't clear from the video that you rulled that out first. hope that might be helpfull to someone with the more common problem.
That's a good point. Yes, I had a couple weeks of experience where I had to click the switch a couple times to "tickle" the relay. I did check the continuity of the limit switches; but I didn't cover it in the video since it was pretty "messy". Thanks for the comments!
So it's bad diodes on the limit switches?
@@Handygrrl Um its in line with a leg from the switch . so lets say the up button is has positive electricity on the blue wire and negative on the brown, but the down button is positive on the brown wire and negative on the blue, so if the limit switch is clicked the diode only allows power flow in one direction so you can complete the circuit. so what happens the grease hardens so the switch never goes to the open position and allows that power flow in that direction. side note if this is the case sometime hitting with a rubber mallet releases the switch, but it will get stuck again in cold weather. so a permanent fix is to strip the grease off of all the guts and switches with an electronic safe solvent with it un powered and then test the switches once they are good then regrease the acme thread with high quality synthetic grease.
I have a two yr old electric recliner with an actuator that looks much like yours except that a collar fell off the back of the actuator which keeps the chair from reclining from full extension otherwise ok.I got the chair after back surgery so I haven’t been able to do much yet and of course the warranty is more of a hassle than you can imagine.I probably just need to bite the bullet and take it apart
The end that holds the screw can break if the limit switches are not functioning properly. The motor is so powerful that it will just crank the back end plate off. I would suggest getting it repaired under warranty if possible since it seems that the chair actuator manufacturers discontinue models often and the only way to get parts is under warranty
I’m sorry I completely forgot the most important part,it looks like it fell straight down to the floor from the back of the actuator where it held something in place.it fell off because the set screw on the collar was never tightened at the factory.what ever it holds in place is what’s keeping it from operating correctly.3/4 extension is ok but go farther and you’re in trouble but after watching some videos I can pretty much see what needs done.I just have to wait for a day I feel good enough and dive in but than you for a quick response.if I can’t figure it out I may try the warranty again but we did that once and I think it’s a complete scam type warranty.again thanks
I wanna thank for just showing me a picture of what it looks like when its bolted in properly so i can sort it out. I got one one these sofas used and never owned one before. Well this thing is all backwards and actuator not bolted to anything lol.. Thanks again
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
It was fun watching your video. I would never be able to do what you did. Our power sofa by Cheers is just sunk.
Sorry about your sofa. Manual levers are not as fancy; but they don't break down as easily either. Thanks for watching.
Genius! I wish u spent a bit more time on choosing the correct relays and soldering, desoldering...but excellent, thank you
Thank you. I have a corollary video on troubleshooting the actuator circuitry that might be helpful ( ruclips.net/video/diehiXWF4pc/видео.html ). Thanks for watching!
I'm going to try this, before paying $90 for a new actuator/motor assembly!
Good luck.
Update: I took my actuator apart today:, the screw which the shuttle rides upon as it turns had a bunch of "stuff" (hair, cloth fibers, animal fur, stuff packed in a glob of grease) wrapped around it.
So, I cleaned up everything with car parts cleaner, and re-greased everything that moves with left over brake caliper grease, put it back together - viola, working again!
I think that contamination, and maybe lack of proper lubrication was causing it to fail?
And, there wasn't a circuit board in there, so no relays to check and switch, just 2 micro-limit switched in the a actuator arm, which I cleaned up too!
That was easy, and cheap!
My neighbor call me to look at his recliner. Found that the problem. It was the one wire going to the limit switch. Not a complete broken wire. I rig it for now so it would work. Still searching on how to remove the pin out of the limit switch.
Flaky connections are always tough. Sometimes I have stripped the insulation and tried to solder the conductors together again. Good luck!
@@LifewithDavid1 Work for Xerox and IBM, have all sort of pin pusher. Yes, Thanks for the Good luck.
I don't even see the circuit board on my okin actuator. Would it be in the metal tube somewhere? I do see the two limit switches in the tube. Defective limit switches perhaps? Mine would extend but not contract then wouldn't move at all. Perhaps the circuit board resides outside this unit. I saw a circuit board attached to the control switches on the couch side. By the way I ordered a new actuator and t works fine. This is why I suspect the limit switch in actuator are faulty
I'm not familiar with that unit. But it could use just limit switches and buttons for motor control with no relay. This means that the full motor current would flow through the switches. They would then be subject to the same contact deterioration as the relay on my actuator. Bad limit switches seem very possible. Thanks for the comment!
@@LifewithDavid1this is what i am thinking faulty limit switches. I will try and look for exact replacements
@@1232bluejays If it doesn't work at all; you could use a continuity tester to check the switches when open and closed. If they are flaky testing is more difficult. Good luck!
Thanks for the vid! For mine, the motor and the switch work fine, but the recliner doesn’t go up and down. Any idea? Thanks.
Does the screw turn? If not, the coupling between the motor and screw is broken. If it does, then the nut that moves up and down the slide could be stripped. Good luck!
Hello David!
This is a great video! I have a question and wondered if it would be possible for me to email you?
I have what I believe is the same exact linear actuator but it's for a different recliner. I just want to make sure that when I'm buying the relays that I'm buying the correct ones. I figured it might be easier for me to just send you a photo to see if you could help me make sure that they are the in fact the right ones?
The relays are pretty stock. Check the voltage on the label, the pinout, and the dimensions. That will let you verify or select the relays.
Hello @lifewithdavid1
I purchased the correct relays from digi-key and soldered them on to the PCB. Unfortunately it did not work. Do you have any other suggestions as to what it might be or how else I can troubleshoot it
I would start by checking the power supply. Does the power brick work; and is power getting to the actuator? Suspect bad wire or connectors. Then do the relays click when the up/down buttons are pushed? If not, it could be the connection between the buttons and the actuator; again wire or connector. Or maybe one button is stuck closed and the limit switch is holding it out. If the relays do click, then check the motor. Manually move it to the middle of the stroke and then tap power directly to the motor. Be careful to only tap the power for a very short time since you are bypassing the limit switches and can easily blow out the end of the housing (don't ask me how I know). If the motor is OK, then check the limit switches. They could be locking out the motor. Hope this helps and good luck! @@josiahsdays
@@LifewithDavid1 thank you so very much!! This was REALLY HELPFUL!!!
Hi Jimmy. Great video. Thank you! I have a different problem you might have suggestions on. My recliner chair goes up and down fine, but when the back is reclined it creeps back up. In seconds it’s back to the upright position. If laying flat out it stays, but if it’s just partially leaning it won’t hold. Do you think it’s a possible fix. So far I haven’t been able to find the actuator that replaces it 😡
Thank yiu in advance
Sorry. David.
Is it a power recliner? If so, then maybe there is a broken bolt between the back mechanism and the seat. I've had a couple bolts break in the past; which causes the seat mechanism to act strangely. Good luck!
@@LifewithDavid1 yes it’s power. I we were going to replace the actuator because chair is only 2 years old but am hoping it’s fixable. I hadn’t noticed any broken bolts but will inspect much closer. Thank you
Wow yeah maybe its the relay on mine i suspect it is because after taling apart the thing that is clicking like crazy is the relay
Hopefully that's it! That's the cheapest part to replace. Good luck!
Where would you order relays, motors and switches if you can't locate or purchase parts from the manufacture?
There is a link to DigiKey in the description. It's for the relay; they have other electronic components; but probably not direct replacement motors. I'm not sure where to get those; you might be able to cobble something together. Good luck!
thanks
Glad to help! Thanks for watching.
Hi Dave, I am having the same problem on my Berkline recliner. I switched the power supply from another chair with the same problem , only goes in one direction. It is a Ciar Jldq linear actuator. Who can iI have fix the LA because they are no longer available to buy?
I know; it's hard to find someone to work on these; that's why I did it myself. If you can find someone that is willing to get into the nitty-gritty of the repair, I have another video that might help ( ruclips.net/video/diehiXWF4pc/видео.html ). Also you might be able to find a furniture repair person; they might have access to replacement actuators. It sounds like either a bad relay or a funky limit switch. Good luck!
Great video Dave. Do you know where I can purchase a new actuator?
Unfortunately, I didn't find them at the CIAR web site. I believe mine came as part of the entire frame and I don't think it was sold separately. That's why I had to fix it myself or else replace the chair. Sorry :-(
Amazon
Thank you!!!
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Any chance you can provide the size of what appears to be a fuse just left of the 6 pin connector on the board as oriented the same way as your video. I have the same model and can’t find the diagram.
I checked detailed photos that I took of the circuit board. There are no fuses, just 4 diodes. I think they are 1N4007, a standard 1A, 1000V diode. I have uploaded the front and back of the circuit board to Github for you. The foil side has been flipped so it should overlay the component side. This should make it easy to reverse engineer a schematic. github.com/LifeWithDavid/Recliner-Chair-Lift-Photos.git Good luck!
@@LifewithDavid1 Thank you so much, it was scorched beyond recognition! I think the board is salvageable. I truly appreciate the help!
Hello, My electric Linear Actuator has a 5 pin male connector. Somehow this actuator is hard to find a replacement. I ordered a linear actuator from amazon but noticed its a 5 pin female connector. This product does not work for my recliner because it has 5 pin female connector on the back of my recliner. Help! Where do I find the right 5 pin male connector? Do I have to replace the entire system from the back of my recliner? Thanks Juan
I guess would just make up 5 individual short male to male jumpers. Then I would plug them between the appropriate female positions. You can tape it all together when it works like you want. You'll need the pinout of the new connector (and the old one too) so you can get the wires to the proper spot. It seems every actuator has their own connector. Good luck!
Hey David, I have a question about that white plastic part on the reclining part of the couch. I was wondering what the name of that part was or how I could replace one?
It might be called a drive nut. Unfortunately, this part is specific to each drive model; you have to get it from the manufacturer. If it's broken and you can't get a replacement from the original supplier, that is usually a fatal flaw; and the whole drive unit has to be replaced. Good luck!
@@LifewithDavid1 thank you 🙏🏽
thanks for the video, my lineal actuator look sealed, no screws to disassembly, any tips to disassembly, look like glue residues, anybody disassembly with dremel or heatgun?
Glued plastic joints are tough. I've had a little luck in using a sharp chisel along the glue line if the glue isn't really strong. However, it can cause cracking. In that event, cutting the case along the glue line with a Dremmel saw is about all you can do. Resign yourself that you may have to repair using a high build glue like epoxy. Good luck!
What information on my recliner motor is pertinent to buy my replacement of a different brand? Thank you Dave.
That's a tough one. I looked into buying a new actuator, and it was impossible even from the same manufacturer. I believe the chair manufacturers buy the entire frame and actuator as a package from the actuator manufacturers. They all have proprietary controls and linkages. You would need the stroke, and actuator force. Good luck; it is not a trivial task.
Hi David, do you know the OSIM UDivine Model? The footrest actuator is not retracting back to the initial position. What could it be?
Unfortunately, no I don't. There are several things it could be, the limit micro switch moving or not working, a jammed mechanism, even a loose pivot connection with too much slop in the footrest extend mechanism. Your best bet is to get close to the mechanism and have someone open and close it while you observe the operation to see what's going on. Good luck!
I have a lm55 actuator on a couch. It has a RJ9 or RJ11. I need to reterminate the wire. Do you know if that is a RJ11 or RJ9 connector?
I'm sorry, but I don't know. My wires were fine so I didn't into changing out the connectors. Good luck!
I have the same actuator and the same problem. Where did you purchase the relays?
I bought my relays at DigiKey. Make sure the relays you get meet or exceed the ratings of the one currently in your chair. Here is a link to the one I bought for my chair:
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G5LE-1-DC24/280367
Like your video. 👍
Thanks for the visit
can anybody help me trouble shoot? my buttons gives power to the motor and the motor continues to make a small click sound if I keep the switches pressed, where do start to trouble shoot?
I'm working on a troubleshooting video; but it won't be ready for a few weeks. In the meantime, try this. If you hear a click (from the relays) when each button is pushed, then the button circuits work. If you rapidly cycle the buttons and you sometimes get movement; then a relay may be bad. If you VERY QUICKLY touch the motor leads to the power, and the motor doesn't turn; then the motor is probably bad. If the motor is good; then one of the limit switches may be bad. Good luck!
Great video. Just got a lazy boy powered recliner couch for but the right side is intermittent with the buttons. Thanks to the video that's probably the first thing I will check. When you tested it with the multimeter what connections were you testing from?
I was testing the DC voltage between the motor leads. Positive voltage and the motor turns one way; negative and it turns the other.
@@LifewithDavid1 awesome thanks so much. Huge help
When you plug the wire from transformer to the chair in the power light goes out! Plug in light comes on. Cables all look good. What gives?
UNplug light goes out
It could be that there is a short in the power head. Or a stuck relay. This could drag down the voltage and the light would go out. In fact, when I push either of the buttons, the light goes out. Hope this helps.
Dave, where can I buy the relay?
I bought mine from DigiKey. Make sure you match the size and ratings for your chair. Here's the link to the ones I bought for my chair: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G5LE-14-DC24/280370?Relays&Dynamic%20Search_EN_RLSA&Relays&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy4eNBhCaARIsAFDVtI0AA5-9_cgJAWGx_-dnOHxMmit8r3n0tqRDxDSPCrukGRAfy7mcbxUaAs7SEALw_wcB
Could you have repaired the relay instead of replacing?
I don't think so. It's sealed; and I'm afraid I would destroy the relay trying to get in.
I don’t have a
Soldering gun
I'm sorry for that. You can get them at Harbor Freight at a reasonable price. However, you should practice a little before you attempt to work on a circuit board. Maybe you have a friend that can help you. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
I'll just replace the motor LOL....
They are not as available as you would think. I would have liked to have replaced mine; but I couldn't get one. Also, if you can get them they are very expensive; the relay was only $4.
@@LifewithDavid1 They are all over Amazon for less than $150..
@@tomb9758 I see that. That's a relatively recent development. Don't forget new buttons and a power supply. Recliner mechanism manufacturer don't seem to have standards; it seems each system has it's own plugs and mounting hardware. Good luck!
@@tomb9758 Much more satisfying for me to resurrect my soldering skills from 30 years ago and save about £150