there is static and residual pressure, residual pressure has a pressure drop when water flows and a larger pipe will have less pressure drop so good call on a larger pipe
Well there's a whopping pressure drop when he started filling the line initially, but he will not see any pressure drop during use, because he will always be in laminar flow velocity when using the spigots, shower, washing machine, etc.
your air compressor analogy doesn't (pardon the pun) hold water. Air is compressible, water is not. Your 2" pipe won't be like the air tank, unless, of course, it expands!
Well, kinda. The water doesn't compress like air but the volume of water will allow it to hold pressure longer, allowing the supply to catch up and maintain the pressure. For example, install two valves one foot apart on a section of 3/4" pipe. Fill the pipe, close the valves, then open just the exit side. Pressure will be relieved to 0 almost immediately. Now do that with 1300' of 2" pipe. With the same 3/4" outlet. The pressure will take a lot longer to get to 0. It may not be like an air compressor tank in that you are compressing the volume to a greater density. But it is like an air compressor tank in that it gives the same end result of longer lasting pressure.
@@BPo3Homestead Respectfully, you cannot get around the fact that water is uncompressible. It will not hold pressure longer and allow supply to catch up. It you lose main pressure you will lose system pressure just as fast. Consider doing a video post of having the main turned off by one person and have another person videoing someone opening the spigot immediately afterwards. There will be other issues like a vacuum trying to form at the main trying to stop flow, but you will lose pressure immediately even if you had a vacuum breaker at the main. The only flow will be from any high point head pressure above the spigot. You can also test how long it takes to fill up a 5 gallon pail at each spigot. Make sure you have a pressure gage to know what it is at static and free flow at the spigot. Also a phone call to the water department asking what should be the expected flow at the main tap. Then you will have some comparison numbers. Your biggest limit is the 3/4" lines at the meter's exit (trying to flow through a straw). There is a limit at which you hit turbulent flow (all about velocity) and the pressure drop rises significantly. It can only catch up so fast as demonstrated when you initially charged the system with water. If you know how long that took and the volume of the 1300 ft of 2" PVC pipe (~ 49,000 in^3), you can calculate the max flow rate out of the 3/4" line in front of your 2" pipe. It will never be higher than that. Here is a link that people can use to calculate line size and if they are in a turbulent flow range (bad). www.plasticpipecalculator.com/PressureDropHeadLoss.aspx. There are others if you do a web search. In the end, it's all a matter of you being satisfied with the water output. Which it looks like you are.
Value. The cost is much less with PVC and I've never had an issue with it. Keep it from freezing and it's a great option. I'm using PEX inside the shop because its more likely to freeze above ground.
Ours is sleeved, i.e. inside of a larger diameter pipe. (At least part of the way. It has been patched so many times since it was installed in the seventies! All on the water company's side of the meter.) Some of it is black polyethylene. We do have the _rockiest_ soil in the state! (Per the power company's geologists.)
No. What they did here is standard for this area. We have great, lasting pressure with this setup so I'm not sure how much a 1" feed would change things.
We visually inspected the line for obvious leaks. Then shut all the valves, took a meter reading making sure it wasn't moving, and went home. The next day the meter was the same, so it held pressure.
👍👍👍👍
there is static and residual pressure, residual pressure has a pressure drop when water flows and a larger pipe will have less pressure drop so good call on a larger pipe
Well there's a whopping pressure drop when he started filling the line initially, but he will not see any pressure drop during use, because he will always be in laminar flow velocity when using the spigots, shower, washing machine, etc.
You are thinking of a Boat "cleat". But just get a galvanized gate door pull handle from Depot.
You know the old song "MISSISSIPPI MUD". hehe Hope all those pipes are below the freeze line.
8" is the freeze line here in Mississippi.
@@BPo3Homestead 40” in CT
@@BPo3Homestead Only 8", wow. !6" in Central TEXAS.
50" in Michigan where I spent my early years. I don't want to experience those winters again...brrrrr
Makes me think about ‘What the Hales’ channel. He put in a 2” pipe and the corrupt Mayor charged him twice as much/gal. Good to see the progress!
Is that for real? Charging more because of the diameter of pipe? I don't understand how that would be allowed to stand if sued.
I see somebody has fiber also. 15:31 😊
your air compressor analogy doesn't (pardon the pun) hold water. Air is compressible, water is not. Your 2" pipe won't be like the air tank, unless, of course, it expands!
Well, kinda. The water doesn't compress like air but the volume of water will allow it to hold pressure longer, allowing the supply to catch up and maintain the pressure. For example, install two valves one foot apart on a section of 3/4" pipe. Fill the pipe, close the valves, then open just the exit side. Pressure will be relieved to 0 almost immediately. Now do that with 1300' of 2" pipe. With the same 3/4" outlet. The pressure will take a lot longer to get to 0. It may not be like an air compressor tank in that you are compressing the volume to a greater density. But it is like an air compressor tank in that it gives the same end result of longer lasting pressure.
@@BPo3Homestead Respectfully, you cannot get around the fact that water is uncompressible. It will not hold pressure longer and allow supply to catch up. It you lose main pressure you will lose system pressure just as fast. Consider doing a video post of having the main turned off by one person and have another person videoing someone opening the spigot immediately afterwards. There will be other issues like a vacuum trying to form at the main trying to stop flow, but you will lose pressure immediately even if you had a vacuum breaker at the main. The only flow will be from any high point head pressure above the spigot.
You can also test how long it takes to fill up a 5 gallon pail at each spigot. Make sure you have a pressure gage to know what it is at static and free flow at the spigot. Also a phone call to the water department asking what should be the expected flow at the main tap. Then you will have some comparison numbers.
Your biggest limit is the 3/4" lines at the meter's exit (trying to flow through a straw). There is a limit at which you hit turbulent flow (all about velocity) and the pressure drop rises significantly. It can only catch up so fast as demonstrated when you initially charged the system with water. If you know how long that took and the volume of the 1300 ft of 2" PVC pipe (~ 49,000 in^3), you can calculate the max flow rate out of the 3/4" line in front of your 2" pipe. It will never be higher than that.
Here is a link that people can use to calculate line size and if they are in a turbulent flow range (bad). www.plasticpipecalculator.com/PressureDropHeadLoss.aspx. There are others if you do a web search.
In the end, it's all a matter of you being satisfied with the water output. Which it looks like you are.
Just curious, why did you go with the white pvc pipe instead of pex?
Value. The cost is much less with PVC and I've never had an issue with it. Keep it from freezing and it's a great option. I'm using PEX inside the shop because its more likely to freeze above ground.
@@BPo3Homestead awesome thanks. That is great reasoning. The new land series has been great! Keep up the great work.
Ours is sleeved, i.e. inside of a larger diameter pipe. (At least part of the way. It has been patched so many times since it was installed in the seventies! All on the water company's side of the meter.) Some of it is black polyethylene. We do have the _rockiest_ soil in the state! (Per the power company's geologists.)
😃👍🏼👊🏼
Was a 1" feed an option?
If he wanted to wait until spring.
Joking
No. What they did here is standard for this area. We have great, lasting pressure with this setup so I'm not sure how much a 1" feed would change things.
Cleat
Just curious about the way you pressure test. I know a few plumbers and they all use a gauge and air. Hold for 24 hours and then cover.
We visually inspected the line for obvious leaks. Then shut all the valves, took a meter reading making sure it wasn't moving, and went home. The next day the meter was the same, so it held pressure.
@@BPo3Homesteadwhy not do the air test earlier, then cover the pipe before you have water?
Extra steps. I'd need to glue in a connector to hook up to an air hose. Then find a portable compressor to use.
Hate DeWalt. My first drill was a DeWalt that burned up driving in lags that had predrilled holes, I've never bought DeWalt since.