@@funjunkiegarage I own an all original 2001 Toyota tundra SR5 V6. Stock from the factory I’m running 31 1/2 inch tires. No lift. The truck came with 9 1/2 inches of ground clearance straight out of the factory in Kansas.
Great video thanks for keeping it real and for the good tips what to do and not to do just ordered my 2-inch leveling kit for my 2006 DC Tundra blue steel metallic 👍🏼👍🏼
Nice job! I’m also running Bilstein but 5100s with stock springs. Those are set 4th notch that give apx 2.5 lift. I recently got 35s and after all kind of trimming and cutting still getting rub while backing up at full lock. I’m thinking to add 1” spacer to see if it helps. I just heard rumors that Bilstein doesn’t recommend adding spacers over its struts but who cares. If it works for you it might work for me 🤞
Thank you. I've heard that about Bilstiens also. Never understood why. The strut doesn't know if there is a spacer, nor does it care. My Bilstiens don't have different settings for the spring so I used the spacer, when it's time to replace them I'll go to 5100s. I'll probably go to 35s at that time too. Thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate your support.
I had Bilstein 5100's/stock springs. Added a heavy front bumper with a winch. The 5100's lasted about two months until they were shot. Now Bilstein 6112's. Like the 5100's but 3 1/2" of lift. Way more beefy springs. New Camburg Hi travel upper control arms. 33" tires. No rub, tons of travel/clearance. Can easily support my new front bumper/winch.. Zero spacers. You get what you pay for.. The 6112's are about $800/each. They are absolutely huge compared to the 5110's. 5100's are great. Up until I modified my front bumper.
Thanks brother. I appreciate that. Fog lights are factory. Yellow LEDs are just replacement bulbs from Amazon. I think I paid 40.00 for them. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just put 3" spacers on my 05' Tundra this past weekend. And boy did I struggle getting that bottom bolt in! Not only that, I'm in the northeast so mine was pretty rusty. Getting the cotter pin out of the crown nut on the top was a major pain in the A. But like you I'm glad I did it the truck looks great!
We suffer for our passions, that's for sure Sounds like you had all the same issue as me. I have to agree, it looks great. Thanks for sharing your struggles. Glad you got it done. Enjoy your Tundra Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it. Have a great day
I’ve been trying to put a 3 inch spacer as well in my 05 tundra, I just couldn’t get the bottom bolt in, did I just need more leverage like the video? 😂
Nice DIY suspension lift. Let me ask ya, how is the front strut lift holding up? The reason I ask is because I have seen some folks develop vibrations and whatnot after the lift. Yours is only a 2" lift so I'm assuming everything should be good. Going to eventually do this myself but kicking my feet.
Thanks. Everything is doing fine. I did have to get an alignment to set toe afterwards. Have put about 1000 miles on it including a 9 hour round trip on the interstate. The ride is just like stock. I've lifted other rigs and gotten a vibration after. An often overlooked cause of this is the drivers side bearing in the clamshell front diff. Replacing it with the ECGS solid bushing is the cure. You should go for it, it's easy to install and just as easy to undo if you don't have the success you hoped for. Thanks for watching.
2000 was the first year for a TRD Tundra, it was part of the Ivan Stewart package. The grille, bumper fascia and wheel flares along with a few other color matched items, bilstein suspension and custom wheels were all a part of it. It was a dealer installed option. This truck had the Ivan Stewart areo package installed at the dealership. 2002 was the first year for a stand alone TRD option that could be ordered from the factory. So it's not all that uncommon or unusual for 1st gen Tundras to have TRD emblems. Plus the emblems and stickers are available for purchase so some may just add them. Hope this helps to clear things up. Thank you for watching and commenting.
No problem other than old CV boots will tear. There are several different options to combat this. I went with high angle CVs. I did have one upper ball joint boot tear, but it was already bad I replaced them both and no more issues. Ok. The top of the spindle will hit the springs at full droop when turning. I ground off about 1/8" on the part of the spindle that was hitting.( you'll see the rub marks) That was easy. So yes, a couple of small issues, but once I corrected those it's been smooth sailing ever since. Hope this helps. Enjoy your project. I appreciate your support.
Thank you. The hood/grille and bumper cover were part of the Ivan Stewart aero package. A limited availability option for the 2000 to 2003 model years. Here's a link to my video with more information on the Ivan Stewart package. ruclips.net/video/H8Y_Vey5ibM/видео.html Thanks for watching. I appreciate the support.
Thank you fine sir for a real life video. Far too often do I watch one from the manufacture or distributor of a part that makes everything seem like a piece of cake. It appears you didn’t remove anything more than you would have with a standard strut replacement. Was this indeed the case? I have the ksp on order now for a 2004 sequoia.
Thank you for watching. It rarely goes as smooth as they depict in those videos. I like to show what you can do on the floor in you garage, like most of are when we work. Indeed nothing more to remove than for a strut replacement. Hope you enjoy your project. I appreciate your support.
They did great the entire time they were installed. I drove over 20k miles with them and no issues. I have since changed them out for a set of Bilstien lift struts. Definitely would do it again if I needed an inexpensive way to level the truck. Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
My strut spacers came in the mail yesterday I would like to talk tires.last night I ordered cheap set of rims 17x8.5 with a 0 mm offset what size tires would you recommend? P.S sorry to bug you but I'm kicked off of Facebook right now for my political beliefs otherwise I would ask my first gen Tundra group LOL
No worries, always happy to share my opinion. Not sure my offset but my backspace is 3.5" and 8.5" wide. I run a 33x10.5 with no rubbing. I believe that would be a 285/75x17 or a 305/65x17. I'm well pleased with the performance.
Those are moto metal mo960 I believe. They have a 3" backspace and -32mm offset according to motometal website. I think that's the correct wheel, they were a discontinued model at the time I got these. I agree they are a perfect fit. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your support.
I don't think it decreases payload. It would make it handle poorly when towing, so I installed air bags in the rear to keep it level when towing. Actually tows great.
Yes, but just a slight wander on the interstate . Once I got used to it, I don't even notice it. Not enough to make the drive unpleasant or anything like that. Thanks for watching and commenting.
It's time consuming and requires a complete donor truck. If it's an 04 and up you need stuff from behind the dash and the ignition and a few other things as I understand it. I haven't done this to a Tundra but I've done 2 3rd gen 4runners. I did research the job for a Tundra but the guy backed out so I didn't do the job. You'll need the transmission and tcase, drive shafts, cross member, front diff, axles, spindles and brakes. Also the 4wd solenoids & vacuum pod. You'll need the dash buttons and all the wiring. Often the interior wiring will be there because Toyota will include all plugs for all features to simplify harnesses. But you may need the ecu and transmission harness so everything works properly. I'm not 100% sure on that, just what I read. But you need shifter input & other electronic input for low range. If you get real creative you can put a J shift case in it from a 4runner, but that's a bunch of extra work. It's definitely a "most difficult " job in my opinion because short of building a car from scratch, this is very in depth & requires knowledge in about every aspect of the vehicle. In vehicles pre 2000 its much eaiser because of less electronic stuff involved. But no Tundra before 2000. I'm sure I've forgotten something. Hope this helps.
If the under dash plugs are there for the 4wd buttons that would be great, if not, you'll need those. There is wiring for the transfer case that's necessary if those plugs aren't there you'll need the 4wd harness and the 4wd ecu. I have no idea if those may be there or not. I've never done one with an electronic t case. So I can't say for sure if there is anything else. I know for low range you need speed input and shifter position input and that's why you need the ecu, again I've just researched it, not done it.
There are always ways to bypass switches and wire things up direct if you have that kind of electronic knowledge. I wouldn't know where to begin on that though.
Thanks for watching. Hear is the link to the ones I used. KSP Tundra Lift Kit Front 2" Aircraft Billet Strut Spacers Leveling Lift Kit fit for Tundra 2WD 2X2 4WD 4X4 1999-2006 a.co/d/isU9twn Hope this helps.
I did the spacers for the same reason, I only had 30k miles on my Bilstiens. Proper lift struts will be next. It's holding up nicely. Ride is good and no ill effects. On full droop and turning the spindle hits the coil spring and makes noise, doesn't hurt anything and if I grind it an 1/8" it will not interfere. Yes, I tore cv boots and upper ball joint boots. I replaced the upper b.j. boots and they have been fine. I replaced cv boots 3 times and eventually went to high angle units and no more issues. I love the look and am in no way sorry for doing it. Thanks for the questions and thanks for watching. I appreciate your support.
Those are Moto Metal MO970. They were going nonstock (in my area) when I got these, but there were still many available. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I don't agree with it being acceptable for "mild over landing" It will preform worse than stock, and eventually kill the strut if used offroad at all. its a substantial suspension downgrade removing a large degree articulation AND you bottom out on your strut tower rather than the control arm bump stop. Im not trying to discourage anyone from what they are doing, but I think its important people understand what they are actually doing. Many people thing they are upgrading their suspension doing this. The reality, its a substantial downgrade to the suspension with the ONLY trade off 'looks cool to be level". And that is a big spacer, that puck is just about as big as you can install on a FGT with stock arms. Any larger of a puck will bottom out the upper ball joint to the coil spring even with the weight of the truck pushing down. It just seems small in comparison to some of the ABSURD 6" spacers you see on other platforms.
Thanks for sharing your opinions on the subject. I always appreciate a second point of view. I never called this an upgrade and never stated it would be a better performing strut off road. As for using it offroad, I have several times and my struts are fine. Do I think it's better than proper offroad suspension, no. And I do state that. So it absolutely is acceptable for offroading. And does not perform worse than stock, I would know, I drive the truck. There are no benefits other than looks and increased ground clearance. It is worse on the strut but not killing it by any means. And I state if these struts weren't relatively new, I'd go with an extended travel strut. I appreciate you wanting to make sure everyone understands what they are doing. But I'm certainly not misleading anyone. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
@@funjunkiegarage "does not perform worse than stock" this is just not true, and the number one misconception. You have lost suspension travel, and no longer have usable bump stops. Your strut is now your suspension limiter. A stock suspension has more travel, articulation, and durability. Not anything that's my opinion it just is what it is.... In your video you can see the upper ball-joint craming into the spring as you had to use a pry-bar just to get the strut in!! Thats not acceptable. If you had a camera up in there while offroading, you would see the same thing. The ballpoint bottoming out on the spring just like it was on install every time that side has to articulate all the way down. Not having a suspension limiter is also a big issue. It only takes a few times of hitting limit to crack the shock eye right off (or just kill shock), because its been used as the bump stop suspension limiter. You hit your suspension limit frequently offloading. If your going to put a spacer on, you are no longer OK doing anything that articulates the front end without negative consequences. So its advised use ON ROAD ONLY, although personally I steer clear all together. A ACTUAL upgrade in regards to lift requires new struts that have more travel, and a larger upper control arm. This addresses all 3 problems the lift with tophat causes. Any lift done without improving those 2 factors is a downgrade from stock performance, only looks better.
Ok, I don't disagree with the facts, ie; no bump stop, bottoming out the strut and the spindle hitting the spring. But in the real world it does drive down the road just fine. It wheels just fine and then drives down the road again just as it should. Therefore it's no worse than stock. I don't make claims based on engineering. I simply share my experiences and in my experience this set up is working out fine for me with nearly 20,000 miles on it, right wrong or indifferent. I definitely plan to "upgrade" my suspension system in the future and I will boast it as such when done properly. Again I thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. And thank you for watching my channel.
I have a Sequoia of a similar year. Man they're nice. Toyota makes these full size vehicles pretty well. What state are you located in? I'm wondering if I could pay you for a welding job.
@@funjunkiegarage nvm. A little too far from me. I bought a bolt on winch plate from Ampd Up. It will probably need some reinforcement.... but I also like the removable aspect of it.
I really should do bolt on because it's removable. I have to build a new one for each vehicle. But I enjoy that. I do weld on so I don't have fear of a bolt shearing or frame tearing and I want the added strength of the load spread out over a larger area. It's just my way, not saying it's right or better. If you feel like a road trip one day let me know. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Here is the set I used. KSP Tundra Lift Kit Front 2" Aircraft Billet Strut Spacers Leveling Lift Kit fit for Tundra 2WD 2X2 4WD 4X4 1999-2006 a.co/d/8twTQW9
Congrats my man. Great job well done. You are much more patient than I. I would’ve been throwing tools halfway through. Lol.
Thank you.
Much appreciated.
I edit out the tool throwing, hahahaha.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@funjunkiegarage I own an all original 2001 Toyota tundra SR5 V6. Stock from the factory I’m running 31 1/2 inch tires. No lift. The truck came with 9 1/2 inches of ground clearance straight out of the factory in Kansas.
Nice, sounds sweet.
Great video thanks for keeping it real and for the good tips what to do and not to do just ordered my 2-inch leveling kit for my 2006 DC Tundra blue steel metallic 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I love the blue steel metallic. Hope your project goes smoothly.
I appreciate your support.
Truck looks great!
Thank you for the awesome compliment.
I appreciate you watching and commenting
Спасибо за видео! Классная тачка. Выглядит супер! 👍
Thank you.
I'm not sure what you said exactly but the thumbs-up is positive.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
@@funjunkiegarage Translation: Thanks for the video! Cool car! Looks great! 🤝👍
Awesome.
Thank you for that.
And thank you for the compliments!
Much appreciated
Nice job! I’m also running Bilstein but 5100s with stock springs. Those are set 4th notch that give apx 2.5 lift. I recently got 35s and after all kind of trimming and cutting still getting rub while backing up at full lock. I’m thinking to add 1” spacer to see if it helps. I just heard rumors that Bilstein doesn’t recommend adding spacers over its struts but who cares. If it works for you it might work for me 🤞
Thank you.
I've heard that about Bilstiens also.
Never understood why. The strut doesn't know if there is a spacer, nor does it care. My Bilstiens don't have different settings for the spring so I used the spacer, when it's time to replace them I'll go to 5100s.
I'll probably go to 35s at that time too.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate your support.
I had Bilstein 5100's/stock springs.
Added a heavy front bumper with a winch. The 5100's lasted about two months until they were shot. Now Bilstein 6112's. Like the 5100's but 3 1/2" of lift.
Way more beefy springs. New Camburg Hi travel upper control arms. 33" tires. No rub, tons of travel/clearance. Can easily support my new front bumper/winch.. Zero spacers. You get what you pay for.. The 6112's are about $800/each. They are absolutely huge compared to the 5110's. 5100's are great. Up until I modified my front bumper.
Great vid man, wondering about the foglights, and hwere you get them
Thanks brother. I appreciate that.
Fog lights are factory. Yellow LEDs are just replacement bulbs from Amazon. I think I paid 40.00 for them.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just put 3" spacers on my 05' Tundra this past weekend. And boy did I struggle getting that bottom bolt in! Not only that, I'm in the northeast so mine was pretty rusty. Getting the cotter pin out of the crown nut on the top was a major pain in the A. But like you I'm glad I did it the truck looks great!
We suffer for our passions, that's for sure
Sounds like you had all the same issue as me.
I have to agree, it looks great.
Thanks for sharing your struggles.
Glad you got it done.
Enjoy your Tundra
Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
Have a great day
hey mane i am trying to put a 2 inch spacer on mine but i am struggling bad with it, any tips?
Sorry you are having a tough time. I think I shared everything I know about it in the video.
What's the issue?
I’ve been trying to put a 3 inch spacer as well in my 05 tundra, I just couldn’t get the bottom bolt in, did I just need more leverage like the video? 😂
I bet that's what it'll take. It's definitely a chore.
I wish you all the best.
Nice DIY suspension lift. Let me ask ya, how is the front strut lift holding up? The reason I ask is because I have seen some folks develop vibrations and whatnot after the lift. Yours is only a 2" lift so I'm assuming everything should be good. Going to eventually do this myself but kicking my feet.
Thanks.
Everything is doing fine.
I did have to get an alignment to set toe afterwards.
Have put about 1000 miles on it including a 9 hour round trip on the interstate. The ride is just like stock.
I've lifted other rigs and gotten a vibration after. An often overlooked cause of this is the drivers side bearing in the clamshell front diff. Replacing it with the ECGS solid bushing is the cure.
You should go for it, it's easy to install and just as easy to undo if you don't have the success you hoped for.
Thanks for watching.
Do you have a video on the clamshell front diff ? You are a world of knowledge to me! Seriously
I have a video on removal and disassembly but not on gear set up. I did make one but lost it in editing.
Sorry.
Thanks for all the support.
Ha ha; sorry if I gush a little. I’m zeroed in on your 2000 Tundra mods and experiences! Keep on doin what you’re doin 👍
That's awesome. I love the way my Tundra works and looks.
More to come on it for certain.
I appreciate your support my brother.
Why can I not find "TRD" tundras for this year....yet so many have "TRD" emblems someway somehow.
2000 was the first year for a TRD Tundra, it was part of the Ivan Stewart package. The grille, bumper fascia and wheel flares along with a few other color matched items, bilstein suspension and custom wheels were all a part of it. It was a dealer installed option.
This truck had the Ivan Stewart areo package installed at the dealership.
2002 was the first year for a stand alone TRD option that could be ordered from the factory. So it's not all that uncommon or unusual for 1st gen Tundras to have TRD emblems.
Plus the emblems and stickers are available for purchase so some may just add them.
Hope this helps to clear things up.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
just bought the same one. does the ball joint, control arm, axle have problem?
No problem other than old CV boots will tear.
There are several different options to combat this.
I went with high angle CVs.
I did have one upper ball joint boot tear, but it was already bad I replaced them both and no more issues.
Ok. The top of the spindle will hit the springs at full droop when turning. I ground off about 1/8" on the part of the spindle that was hitting.( you'll see the rub marks) That was easy.
So yes, a couple of small issues, but once I corrected those it's been smooth sailing ever since.
Hope this helps.
Enjoy your project.
I appreciate your support.
You should replace the lower OEM ball joints at anything over 100K miles. They do fail.
Nice video. Where did you get the hood grille?
Thank you.
The hood/grille and bumper cover were part of the Ivan Stewart aero package. A limited availability option for the 2000 to 2003 model years.
Here's a link to my video with more information on the Ivan Stewart package.
ruclips.net/video/H8Y_Vey5ibM/видео.html
Thanks for watching. I appreciate the support.
Thank you fine sir for a real life video. Far too often do I watch one from the manufacture or distributor of a part that makes everything seem like a piece of cake.
It appears you didn’t remove anything more than you would have with a standard strut replacement.
Was this indeed the case?
I have the ksp on order now for a 2004 sequoia.
Thank you for watching. It rarely goes as smooth as they depict in those videos.
I like to show what you can do on the floor in you garage, like most of are when we work.
Indeed nothing more to remove than for a strut replacement.
Hope you enjoy your project.
I appreciate your support.
Its been a while. How them spacers do?
They did great the entire time they were installed.
I drove over 20k miles with them and no issues. I have since changed them out for a set of Bilstien lift struts. Definitely would do it again if I needed an inexpensive way to level the truck.
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
My strut spacers came in the mail yesterday I would like to talk tires.last night I ordered cheap set of rims 17x8.5 with a 0 mm offset what size tires would you recommend?
P.S sorry to bug you but I'm kicked off of Facebook right now for my political beliefs otherwise I would ask my first gen Tundra group LOL
No worries, always happy to share my opinion.
Not sure my offset but my backspace is 3.5" and 8.5" wide. I run a 33x10.5 with no rubbing.
I believe that would be a 285/75x17 or a 305/65x17. I'm well pleased with the performance.
whats the offset of the wheels? it fills the fenders perfectly.
Those are moto metal mo960 I believe.
They have a 3" backspace and -32mm offset according to motometal website.
I think that's the correct wheel, they were a discontinued model at the time I got these.
I agree they are a perfect fit.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your support.
I can't stop laughing🤣🤣🤣🤣
So long as you're enjoying yourself no need to stop.
@@funjunkiegarage Looking at buying the same truck today with 228,000
Just getting broken in.
Hope it's nice and you get it.
@@funjunkiegarage We just went and picked it up. Same as yours but grey and the v6. It gets 21mpg so thats good
Nice! Congratulations.
Doesn't that decress the payload capacity of the vehicle as well as the way it handles while putting something?
I don't think it decreases payload.
It would make it handle poorly when towing, so I installed air bags in the rear to keep it level when towing. Actually tows great.
Disconnect the sway bar and it will drop down easy
That's good advice, thanks for sharing.
if i do that will it be easier to put the screw in for the strut?
@@anthonyestrada5755 should help.
Any squirrely steering afterwards??
Yes, but just a slight wander on the interstate .
Once I got used to it, I don't even notice it. Not enough to make the drive unpleasant or anything like that.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey on a scale of 1 to 10 how difficult would you think that it would be to 4wd swap my tundra
It's time consuming and requires a complete donor truck.
If it's an 04 and up you need stuff from behind the dash and the ignition and a few other things as I understand it.
I haven't done this to a Tundra but I've done 2 3rd gen 4runners. I did research the job for a Tundra but the guy backed out so I didn't do the job.
You'll need the transmission and tcase, drive shafts, cross member, front diff, axles, spindles and brakes. Also the 4wd solenoids & vacuum pod.
You'll need the dash buttons and all the wiring. Often the interior wiring will be there because Toyota will include all plugs for all features to simplify harnesses. But you may need the ecu and transmission harness so everything works properly. I'm not 100% sure on that, just what I read. But you need shifter input & other electronic input for low range.
If you get real creative you can put a J shift case in it from a 4runner, but that's a bunch of extra work.
It's definitely a "most difficult " job in my opinion because short of building a car from scratch, this is very in depth & requires knowledge in about every aspect of the vehicle.
In vehicles pre 2000 its much eaiser because of less electronic stuff involved.
But no Tundra before 2000.
I'm sure I've forgotten something.
Hope this helps.
@@funjunkiegarage mine is a 2000 is there much wiring required?
If the under dash plugs are there for the 4wd buttons that would be great, if not, you'll need those. There is wiring for the transfer case that's necessary if those plugs aren't there you'll need the 4wd harness and the 4wd ecu. I have no idea if those may be there or not.
I've never done one with an electronic t case.
So I can't say for sure if there is anything else.
I know for low range you need speed input and shifter position input and that's why you need the ecu, again I've just researched it, not done it.
There are always ways to bypass switches and wire things up direct if you have that kind of electronic knowledge. I wouldn't know where to begin on that though.
that’s a after mark front bumper, right?
Yes, it's part of the Ivan Stewart package.
Yes the black is but it still hold the same style as the stock 2000 to 2002 bumbers with the big bright fog lights
Hey what brand did you use? Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Hear is the link to the ones I used.
KSP Tundra Lift Kit Front 2" Aircraft Billet Strut Spacers Leveling Lift Kit fit for Tundra 2WD 2X2 4WD 4X4 1999-2006 a.co/d/isU9twn
Hope this helps.
Perfect thank you!
You're welcome.
Enjoy your project.
I’ve been considering getting spacers just to lift my tundra till I get a proper lift. How’s it holding? Did you tear the cv boots after the setup?
I did the spacers for the same reason, I only had 30k miles on my Bilstiens. Proper lift struts will be next.
It's holding up nicely. Ride is good and no ill effects. On full droop and turning the spindle hits the coil spring and makes noise, doesn't hurt anything and if I grind it an 1/8" it will not interfere.
Yes, I tore cv boots and upper ball joint boots. I replaced the upper b.j. boots and they have been fine. I replaced cv boots 3 times and eventually went to high angle units and no more issues.
I love the look and am in no way sorry for doing it.
Thanks for the questions and thanks for watching.
I appreciate your support.
@@funjunkiegarage Understandable. Thank you for taking the time out of your day to answer my question! Hope to see your build come along very well.
Any time brother.
Happy to help where I can.
Enjoy your build as well.
Have a great day
Also can i ask what wheels you have
Those are Moto Metal MO970.
They were going nonstock (in my area) when I got these, but there were still many available.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I don't agree with it being acceptable for "mild over landing" It will preform worse than stock, and eventually kill the strut if used offroad at all. its a substantial suspension downgrade removing a large degree articulation AND you bottom out on your strut tower rather than the control arm bump stop. Im not trying to discourage anyone from what they are doing, but I think its important people understand what they are actually doing. Many people thing they are upgrading their suspension doing this. The reality, its a substantial downgrade to the suspension with the ONLY trade off 'looks cool to be level". And that is a big spacer, that puck is just about as big as you can install on a FGT with stock arms. Any larger of a puck will bottom out the upper ball joint to the coil spring even with the weight of the truck pushing down. It just seems small in comparison to some of the ABSURD 6" spacers you see on other platforms.
Thanks for sharing your opinions on the subject.
I always appreciate a second point of view.
I never called this an upgrade and never stated it would be a better performing strut off road.
As for using it offroad, I have several times and my struts are fine.
Do I think it's better than proper offroad suspension, no. And I do state that.
So it absolutely is acceptable for offroading. And does not perform worse than stock, I would know, I drive the truck.
There are no benefits other than looks and increased ground clearance.
It is worse on the strut but not killing it by any means. And I state if these struts weren't relatively new, I'd go with an extended travel strut.
I appreciate you wanting to make sure everyone understands what they are doing.
But I'm certainly not misleading anyone.
Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
@@funjunkiegarage "does not perform worse than stock" this is just not true, and the number one misconception. You have lost suspension travel, and no longer have usable bump stops. Your strut is now your suspension limiter. A stock suspension has more travel, articulation, and durability. Not anything that's my opinion it just is what it is.... In your video you can see the upper ball-joint craming into the spring as you had to use a pry-bar just to get the strut in!! Thats not acceptable. If you had a camera up in there while offroading, you would see the same thing. The ballpoint bottoming out on the spring just like it was on install every time that side has to articulate all the way down. Not having a suspension limiter is also a big issue. It only takes a few times of hitting limit to crack the shock eye right off (or just kill shock), because its been used as the bump stop suspension limiter. You hit your suspension limit frequently offloading. If your going to put a spacer on, you are no longer OK doing anything that articulates the front end without negative consequences. So its advised use ON ROAD ONLY, although personally I steer clear all together. A ACTUAL upgrade in regards to lift requires new struts that have more travel, and a larger upper control arm. This addresses all 3 problems the lift with tophat causes. Any lift done without improving those 2 factors is a downgrade from stock performance, only looks better.
Ok, I don't disagree with the facts, ie; no bump stop, bottoming out the strut and the spindle hitting the spring.
But in the real world it does drive down the road just fine. It wheels just fine and then drives down the road again just as it should. Therefore it's no worse than stock.
I don't make claims based on engineering.
I simply share my experiences and in my experience this set up is working out fine for me with nearly 20,000 miles on it, right wrong or indifferent.
I definitely plan to "upgrade" my suspension system in the future and I will boast it as such when done properly.
Again I thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
And thank you for watching my channel.
I have a Sequoia of a similar year. Man they're nice. Toyota makes these full size vehicles pretty well.
What state are you located in? I'm wondering if I could pay you for a welding job.
My son-in-law has a nice Sequoia. I love it.
I'm located in Indiana.
@@funjunkiegarage southern part? The river is a couple hours drive from me.
I'm just North and East of Indianapolis.
@@funjunkiegarage nvm. A little too far from me. I bought a bolt on winch plate from Ampd Up. It will probably need some reinforcement.... but I also like the removable aspect of it.
I really should do bolt on because it's removable. I have to build a new one for each vehicle. But I enjoy that.
I do weld on so I don't have fear of a bolt shearing or frame tearing and I want the added strength of the load spread out over a larger area.
It's just my way, not saying it's right or better.
If you feel like a road trip one day let me know.
I appreciate you watching and commenting!
where did you find that grille??
It is part of the dealership installed "Ivan Stewart aero package" that was available in 2000, 01 and 02.
I have the same grill, I love it!
Nice! I love it too.
so 1 1/4 spacer gives you 2 inches ?
Yes. Due to the location of the strut.
Pushing it down 1.25" pushes the end of the control arm 2".
@@funjunkiegarage what brand ?
Here is the set I used.
KSP Tundra Lift Kit Front 2" Aircraft Billet Strut Spacers Leveling Lift Kit fit for Tundra 2WD 2X2 4WD 4X4 1999-2006 a.co/d/8twTQW9
I have all those tools just missing the fat arse.
Hahahahahahaha. Fat arse not required.
@@funjunkiegarage lol👍