Great video, I think printer that can print carbon filament are the future when it comes to create products that can be used in product that would be take more force than PLA or ABS can take.
My K1C arrives Monday coming from Ender 5 Pro, glad to join your company and see what you get up to. Any closer to solving this issue? I plan to root, go to latest klipper and do any and all calibration possible, will update with my cat results.
...look to see if you have speed changes (or other changes at those layers, for that matter). I had the same issues and discovered that changes in speed were resulting in what appeared to be layer/z/etc. shifts.
This is a common trend. The K1 series has inherent issues. It needs a stiffer frame and a redesigned extruder. It may be a decent value, but I think there are better options right now. The Q1 Pro especially. Not to crap on your collaborations with Creality at all, but I have to be honest. It's disappointing, because the printers really could be great.
@@TheRealSamPrentice I just never like to mess with a creator's connections unless they're a real jerk. ;) I trust you to give us a real opinion though.
Had V3 S1 Pro, too much constant fiddling on the bed. Just bought the K1C bundle on the deal that is now expired. Hoping this new version will allow me to print without having to manually level every day.
Print outer wall first. Inner outer is only necessary if you have large overhangs. Otherwise, printing outer wall first will give you better surface quality.
@@TheRealSamPrentice - hmm. Only thing I could suggest is slowing down the acceleration to see if it is some sort of slack in a motion system bearing. If it improves with lower accelerations, then it isn’t your typical z-wobble (shifting as the bed moves up and down).
Oh, and you might want to see if your extruder gears are running true (if they move closer and further apart as they rotate). On the original K1, creality did a poor job of ensuring that the gears are concentric with the hole as they used threads as a locating mechanism (always a bad idea for precision mechanisms, they should have had a interference fit with precision bolt shank and a hub).
About that egg print quality thing, try a VFA test to see what speeds are problematic and avoid them on the outer walls, 2nd off the inner/outer/inner wall order on my slicer improves layer consistency a lot as well. if neither of those work I would double check the backlash on the Z leadscrews, there will be a little bit but it shouldn't be excessive. I've also sometimes see that the gantry being slightly out of square can cause issues like this. Usually that is fixable by messing with the belt tensioners a bit to change the center distances to make the gantry square again. Lastly (although it might be a non issue) the smooth idlers on the toothed side of the belt can cause consistent 2mm VFAs at certain speeds which can be fixed by using toothed idlers on the toothed side of the belt. Hope this could possibly lead to a solution down the road!
Yep there is a shot in the video where I print that, this print was better in vase mode, and I tried turning off z hop, slowing it down, the belts, rooting, upping the amps on the motors and so on. Please try the file and let me know what you get.
That robot you're working on, I think I saw Mike post a video in his FB group teasing that. That uses those Neo motors too, right? Is that PLA gear going to be rugged enough to handle the torque?
4:01 So i have a question about one of the prints you did in this video, it's the black geometric vase, I have been printing 95% of the past 3 years print with resin, so i am rather green when it comes to FDM, i have just purchased a K1C and that's how i stumbled onto this video. SO! more to the point I have noticed there is little to no layer lines and I was wondering if you can please tell me how to print with that high quality. thanks in advance
@@TheRealSamPrentice Awesome, Thank you for replying so quick too. I am already loving the k1c. but the dream is to someday be able to afford a Bambu Lab X1. Thanks again for your help 🙂
@@TheRealSamPrentice I am using Hyper PLA at the moment but want to start with some ABS and Barbon. as i print interior Automotive parts for ford territorys here in Australia.
When I got both of my K1 Max's they printed great a little ghosting but nothing that was a shock bit after I upgraded to the latest firmware now all of the sudden I'm getting whisps and it doesn't matter what filament I use I get them no again no big deal but do you think it's something in the firmware or something mechanical?
Its a strange one, on the pink cat text I used various slicers to try and get improvements and it was somehow lacking, in the end its either the model or the bed/head movement. But having two of the same here and then getting the same issues in china it could just be the model?
here i had a re think and l think the multi filament upgrade kit for the k-series and the ender wont worry about a poop shot but will instead us a purge tower!
Do you try to run imput shaper script?? It seam to be a problem with Creality firmware, they use same value from x to y axis. If you rooted the printer and run this macro could improve the quality I think.
K1C doesn’t seem to be able to print TPU well. Constant clogs and under extrusion while printing with TPU. Especially because of the unicorn nozzle design. I’ve tried with different TPUs, every time it clogs mid print and fails due to under extrusion
Hello, the model of the cat that you have put in the link is not the same one that you print in the video. The one in the video is one piece and the link is two and it is not solid.
Its a combination of the flimsy frame, the location of the leadscrews in relation to the linear rods for the bed and of course the toolhead being allowed to rock on the upper brass bearing which is held in place by two springs. whole lots of no no's.
Hello, well I removed the springs because the circles don't come out well with them and I read somewhere that they recommended removing them and indeed when you remove them the circles come out better. So do you recommend that they not be removed?
Great video! Last week im thinking upgrading from my heavily modded ender3 v1 to k1c or ender3 v3 plus and im confused. I have the ender3 v1 since 2018 and i want something that works out of the box without a hassle. Any suggestions? Also i would like to be able to print cf filaments.
I was thinking for infimech tx also. Flashforge adventurer 5m pro but this is like using apple products which I'm not so fan of. What do you propose if you don't mind? Please 🙏
@@TheRealSamPrentice I have tried it on my Ender3 V2 with Sonic Pad, which prints very very finely and comes out the same as on the K1C. Could it be the stl's fault?
Hi Sam, telling grandmother how to suck eggs but here goes. 🙂 Lower print speed maybe to stop the vibrations, lower fan speed to give filament time to bond, combing mode? Love the video though.
@@TheRealSamPrentice So, you got exactly the same results in China, using the same filament but different machine and, also using different filament. Sounds to me like there is a design flaw somewhere. Does it need larger diameter lead screws, longer lead screw nuts to add to the stabilisation of the print bed? You mention that the chain keeps catching the hood, is that causing vibrations in the extruder? Is the support system for the nozzle strong enough? Just suggestions from a 3D print novice (3 years and a bit) 🙂
I get asked that every now and then, RUclips disabled it as default. Plus it’s up to you if you dislike something it’s certainly not going to spoil my day.
@@TheRealSamPrentice I didn't know it's like that by default. When they're disabled it's especially noticeable, since very few other channels have it like that, at least the 3D printing related ones that I watch.
@@TNX255 yeah it’s weird, I’ve never been able to find the setting, the one to show how many people liked the video is there and I’ve clicked that now.
Excellent film/edit work on the unwrapping of the printers. That hot pink is pretty slick.
I’ll let the editor know :)
Great video, I think printer that can print carbon filament are the future when it comes to create products that can be used in product that would be take more force than PLA or ABS can take.
Great video as always 👍
Congratulations on the 50k subs
Thank you very much!
My K1C arrives Monday coming from Ender 5 Pro, glad to join your company and see what you get up to. Any closer to solving this issue? I plan to root, go to latest klipper and do any and all calibration possible, will update with my cat results.
...look to see if you have speed changes (or other changes at those layers, for that matter). I had the same issues and discovered that changes in speed were resulting in what appeared to be layer/z/etc. shifts.
I’ll check again :)
@@TheRealSamPrenticeany update on this?
Great review buddy
Stickers make everything much faster!
This is a common trend. The K1 series has inherent issues. It needs a stiffer frame and a redesigned extruder. It may be a decent value, but I think there are better options right now. The Q1 Pro especially. Not to crap on your collaborations with Creality at all, but I have to be honest. It's disappointing, because the printers really could be great.
P.S. Love the hot pink, hahaha.
That’s the best part right !!
You’re not crapping on anything my opinion is my own with all of this regardless of events I do with them
My K1max and K1C have performed faultlessly and produce top quality prints
@@TheRealSamPrentice I just never like to mess with a creator's connections unless they're a real jerk. ;) I trust you to give us a real opinion though.
Had V3 S1 Pro, too much constant fiddling on the bed. Just bought the K1C bundle on the deal that is now expired. Hoping this new version will allow me to print without having to manually level every day.
Print outer wall first. Inner outer is only necessary if you have large overhangs. Otherwise, printing outer wall first will give you better surface quality.
Did that too :)
@@TheRealSamPrentice - hmm. Only thing I could suggest is slowing down the acceleration to see if it is some sort of slack in a motion system bearing. If it improves with lower accelerations, then it isn’t your typical z-wobble (shifting as the bed moves up and down).
Oh, and you might want to see if your extruder gears are running true (if they move closer and further apart as they rotate). On the original K1, creality did a poor job of ensuring that the gears are concentric with the hole as they used threads as a locating mechanism (always a bad idea for precision mechanisms, they should have had a interference fit with precision bolt shank and a hub).
Awesome. I just bought one and it's sitting in my office :)
Print that cat
A sunny day in the UK ? I thought good weather was just a myth in the UK. 😉
I’m living the dream
About that egg print quality thing, try a VFA test to see what speeds are problematic and avoid them on the outer walls, 2nd off the inner/outer/inner wall order on my slicer improves layer consistency a lot as well. if neither of those work I would double check the backlash on the Z leadscrews, there will be a little bit but it shouldn't be excessive. I've also sometimes see that the gantry being slightly out of square can cause issues like this. Usually that is fixable by messing with the belt tensioners a bit to change the center distances to make the gantry square again. Lastly (although it might be a non issue) the smooth idlers on the toothed side of the belt can cause consistent 2mm VFAs at certain speeds which can be fixed by using toothed idlers on the toothed side of the belt. Hope this could possibly lead to a solution down the road!
Yep there is a shot in the video where I print that, this print was better in vase mode, and I tried turning off z hop, slowing it down, the belts, rooting, upping the amps on the motors and so on. Please try the file and let me know what you get.
I’ll check that tho but on 4 printers ?
That robot you're working on, I think I saw Mike post a video in his FB group teasing that. That uses those Neo motors too, right? Is that PLA gear going to be rugged enough to handle the torque?
Yep and I’m using pla on the tiny bike too
What's the print look like on other printers for comparison?
black one is out of stock, is the football design removable from the red one?
Yes it’s a sticker ❤make sure you use my links :)🎉🎉
4:01 So i have a question about one of the prints you did in this video, it's the black geometric vase, I have been printing 95% of the past 3 years print with resin, so i am rather green when it comes to FDM, i have just purchased a K1C and that's how i stumbled onto this video. SO! more to the point I have noticed there is little to no layer lines and I was wondering if you can please tell me how to print with that high quality. thanks in advance
The filament has a lot to do with it, but its stock settings using the Bambu Lab k1c profile
@@TheRealSamPrentice Awesome, Thank you for replying so quick too. I am already loving the k1c. but the dream is to someday be able to afford a Bambu Lab X1. Thanks again for your help 🙂
@@TheRealSamPrentice I am using Hyper PLA at the moment but want to start with some ABS and Barbon. as i print interior Automotive parts for ford territorys here in Australia.
How about bamboo lab K1C profile?@@TheRealSamPrentice
How about that?
Is the bed PID tuned - so there's minimal temp fluctuation. Are the linear rod bearings stellar quality or is there a little play?
It might be the rods I can’t see the bed heat having any relevance to movement tho
@@TheRealSamPrentice those were two separate questions...
When I got both of my K1 Max's they printed great a little ghosting but nothing that was a shock bit after I upgraded to the latest firmware now all of the sudden I'm getting whisps and it doesn't matter what filament I use I get them no again no big deal but do you think it's something in the firmware or something mechanical?
Its a strange one, on the pink cat text I used various slicers to try and get improvements and it was somehow lacking, in the end its either the model or the bed/head movement. But having two of the same here and then getting the same issues in china it could just be the model?
sunny day!!!!!
You know it !
Hello there Sam, nice video as alway, any coupon or discount code for the red version in europe?
Let me ask the question !
here i had a re think and l think the multi filament upgrade kit for the k-series and the ender wont worry about a poop shot but will instead us a purge tower!
That’s very true ! I have four of their dry boxes which I intend on making a system with
Do you try to run imput shaper script?? It seam to be a problem with Creality firmware, they use same value from x to y axis. If you rooted the printer and run this macro could improve the quality I think.
I did and rooted it, I spend a number of days working things out the guys on discord d3vil design are doing a fine job also
K1C doesn’t seem to be able to print TPU well. Constant clogs and under extrusion while printing with TPU. Especially because of the unicorn nozzle design. I’ve tried with different TPUs, every time it clogs mid print and fails due to under extrusion
What’s your settings ?
@@TheRealSamPrentice 230 C temp, 50mm/s speed, 0.4mm retraction, flow 1.1 .That’s pretty much it
@QuantumX I would say that’s a little hot which profile are you using? Are you using the reality one or the one in bamboo Studios?
@@TheRealSamPrentice I’m using Creality Slicer with Generic TPU profile. Just tweaked the temperature and flow settings.
Hello, the model of the cat that you have put in the link is not the same one that you print in the video. The one in the video is one piece and the link is two and it is not solid.
Inside the zip file there is another zip file...
Is it there’s a couple of versions inside the zip.
Its a combination of the flimsy frame, the location of the leadscrews in relation to the linear rods for the bed and of course the toolhead being allowed to rock on the upper brass bearing which is held in place by two springs. whole lots of no no's.
Good to see you here dude, I know we messages about this issue too
Hello, well I removed the springs because the circles don't come out well with them and I read somewhere that they recommended removing them and indeed when you remove them the circles come out better. So do you recommend that they not be removed?
How is it possible to print without the foundation layer?
What do you mean ?
Great video! Last week im thinking upgrading from my heavily modded ender3 v1 to k1c or ender3 v3 plus and im confused. I have the ender3 v1 since 2018 and i want something that works out of the box without a hassle. Any suggestions? Also i would like to be able to print cf filaments.
This will do it but there are several options out there now, this has a good support community and a very good team around klipper online
I was thinking for infimech tx also. Flashforge adventurer 5m pro but this is like using apple products which I'm not so fan of. What do you propose if you don't mind? Please 🙏
@PanosMesi I’ve had a lot of success with the k1 max and the Bambu p1p/p1s I’ve not used the flashfoge
Yeah these are very good options but unfortunately my budget is not that high 😢
Sam I feel that you are missing a cat in your life. Lol
I know right! My son likes playing with them so thats something!
Wait a few weeks the K2 will be released
It’ll be more than a few weeks, but I’ve already seen it
It´s a lot more expensive!
have you tried the pink cat on ender 3 V3 (not the se or ke)?
I’ve not no, but I should !!
@@TheRealSamPrentice I have tried it on my Ender3 V2 with Sonic Pad, which prints very very finely and comes out the same as on the K1C. Could it be the stl's fault?
Hi Sam, telling grandmother how to suck eggs but here goes. 🙂 Lower print speed maybe to stop the vibrations, lower fan speed to give filament time to bond, combing mode? Love the video though.
Honestly I tried it all slow speed faster speed 4 slicers different firmwares 🎉
@@TheRealSamPrentice So, you got exactly the same results in China, using the same filament but different machine and, also using different filament. Sounds to me like there is a design flaw somewhere. Does it need larger diameter lead screws, longer lead screw nuts to add to the stabilisation of the print bed? You mention that the chain keeps catching the hood, is that causing vibrations in the extruder? Is the support system for the nozzle strong enough? Just suggestions from a 3D print novice (3 years and a bit) 🙂
@@TheRealSamPrentice Nice garden by the way. 🙂
@@stephengittins6116 I might have to give those backlash nuts a good old shaking
@@stephengittins6116lol thank you
Problem for me - no .2 nozzles
It boils down to speed ,slow down to 200.
It doesn't even at 60mm/s there were quality issues with that print
@@TheRealSamPrentice Maybe its a new benchy
Ahhh I see the problem....its a creality printer....
Lol
Why would you disable downvotes? Suspicious...
I get asked that every now and then, RUclips disabled it as default. Plus it’s up to you if you dislike something it’s certainly not going to spoil my day.
@@TheRealSamPrentice I didn't know it's like that by default. When they're disabled it's especially noticeable, since very few other channels have it like that, at least the 3D printing related ones that I watch.
@@TNX255 yeah it’s weird, I’ve never been able to find the setting, the one to show how many people liked the video is there and I’ve clicked that now.
@@TNX255u must be living under a rock it has been ages since that has happened
Yeah I thought that was the case I’ve looked but never seen the options
It's pink!
It sure is!