+mike dugan Because that isn't normal drilling, but by melting through the different materials that is listed at below video. Metal drilling is slow process and this is fast, fee seconds per hole. But bad side is that this leaves material around hole so it can't be used so well as normal drill.
Might be helpful if in the description they put a URL where to get them or at least a bit more information so people would know what is going on and why. I'll have to see if they have some for 1/4 inch taps and #6 and #8 as I use them frequently.
really innovative... excellent for home projects for a very custom/pro look. Agreed that you wouldn't want to use this in the brewing industry, but excellent for many applications.
For me it seems like very creative and extremely helpful idea for somewhat light jobs. Just imagine, you can have a quick thread from the side of a thin walled pipe !
That would be useful in the shop I used to work at. We worked with lots of stainless HSS with lots of holes drilled and tapped. Often have to tack a nut or extra plate inside or on top to give some thread depth, and it is all food grade so the no filings is a huge bonus as well. With any production tool, longevity is an important question, but the time savings on cleanup and bonus tapping strength is huge.
Check out their website. This isn't a drill and you can't use a drill or drill press. You have to have something a lot more powerfull. A collumn drilling machine or NC or CNC machine. You'll have to click the little British flag to see it in English.
Can someone explain why this is preferable to just a drill+center drill? I don't quite understand. Kinda looks like it will start a fire, too (I know it won't really)
@GeneralG1810 Coolant would only ruin the effect of this kind of drill. This isn't your typical toothed drill bit, Instead it uses friction to melt out the centerpoint
+KastaRules right, but this makes use of the existing metal, no need for extra weight (that does matter in some applications), or any more than 2 steps.
The bits wouldn't last long as they are constantly heated cherry red then slow cooled-this would make them softer.Try doing this with a normal tungsten drill and it would be snafu after the first hole!
it's not threading at the same time as the drilling. they still tapped it afterwards to show the benefit of having the extra big burr created by the "drill".
+_404_Error before this, one had to drill a hole, place a rivet, set the rivet, thread the rivet (or pay more for threaded rivets), then secure the rivet in place either with adhesive or a tack weld. rivet and ashesive/weld add extra weight and weak spots. creating the rivet from the existing metal and then threading it creates a perfect bond without the need for any extra weight or work. TL;DR: It takes a 3-5 step process down to 2. That saves LOADS of time, energy, and resources over the span of a project.
+_404_Error Well, fucker, those fucking rivets are fucking necessary, because fucking otherwise there would be fucking nothing to fucking hold the fucking thread. Fucker.
what about the mechanical properties of the stock material wouldnt they be affected by the heat? just like the welding process which weakens material because of the heat
***** i should have been more specific on this, for the presentation there is no coolant used ( so we can see what happens ) in work conditions there is lots of coolant used to prevent such extreme overheating, anyway you are right there is while the production process it get's hot but not hot enough to weaken the material to much, should it be still get weak through the heating you can just take the hot steel and cool it fast in a cooling bath so it gets strong again. i dont say its a perfect solution but it is a cheap solution. hope this helps a little bit, take care :)
awesome that would come in handy if it could be used on a drill in the field instead of cutting threading and installing tees on pipes just drill and tap
What's the advantage compared to conventional drilling ? it just create hot spots in the metal parts, create an fat edge which would have to be removed after. Well I can't figure out the purpose of that so called " innovative technique " !
Right. I see heat fatigued material the square stock started to warp and blue is burn damaged material which is radiating out past the drill hole. Maybe if anything a faster technique and a bit that lasts longer, but if you have to debur you way passed lost the extra time gained. I'm not a machinist so I could be missing something.
***** "Yeah. You go ahead and try to tap threads into that steel that's been heated red hot and cooled and see what happens." You can see 2 holes being threaded at the end of the video.... Heating steel to cherry red and allowing it cool slowly is known as normalizing or annealing, this process strips the steel of any heat treatment properties, and leaves it soft.
This melts a tenon on it what could be used to tap stuff into making a larger surface for the screw to hold, this is perfect for certain puposes. I think some central heating companies are very interested for mounting sensors and stuf this way. Making structures for hanging their systems on. And so on. Great saves on production and welding. Just a drill and tap in the process some kind of o-ring and it's water tight.
How does the drill bit survive all that friction heating? Does it have a cutting edge, or does it work entirely from friction? Being able to add a tapped hole is nifty. What are the applications of this process?
The bit is made of tugsten carbide. Since it is a sintered ceramic of sorts, it can withstand incredibly high heat without any affect to itself. No cutting edge, but they tend to be shaped like a very rounded square rather than a circle down the axis of rotation. Applications are mainly to allow more than just a few threads to be cut into thin wall material.
* No material is lost. The excess material forms a sleeve that is about 3 times longer than the original thickness of the target material, which makes it possible to make very strong bolt joints in thin material. * It is a clean process because no litter (particles) is produced. * No access needed to back of workpiece, as with rivet nuts. * Tool life span is upwards of 25 times longer than conventional drills. The holder is made to form the sleeve, it is part of the tool.
Totally different application. It looks like they want the tenon and the flange for bolting into. A twist bit or a spur bit would only leave the thickness of the wall. Once tapped there would only be a few threads, where this technique leaves many more threads and is much quicker with no chips left to clean up. In a big production this would be much more efficient. The bigger downside is the strength of the threads, they would wear out over repeated use.
No metal is lost, which is good, you get more surface to tap and the drill lifetime is somewhere in the realms of 25 times longer than normal cutting drills.
That would be awsome to own as attaching parts to a motorcycle frame can be hard work at times with drilling and threading or captive nuts this seems to create a perfect base for threads
* No material is lost. The excess material forms a sleeve that is about 3 times longer than the original thickness of the target material, which makes it possible to make very strong bolt joints in thin material. * It is a clean process because no litter (particles) is produced. * No access needed to back of workpiece, as with rivet nuts. * Tool life span is upwards of 25 times longer than conventional drills.
It is for small wall Sizes of pipes, when you need to screw something in. The material melts into the pipe and you have more space for cutting the screw thread.
This technique is only useful for a very little spectrum of applications. From the metallographic point of view, as the metal is getting to hot, the crystal structure of the metal is deformed. The "hot drilled" point will have so higher hardness levels than the other part of the metal that the metal Grains near the hole will be so much and small in size than the whole other metal body, that homogeneity is sucked!! ex. A stainless steel pipe at high pressures with a tension using this hole, a ring around the hole will break off like an apple. For sure, for heavy duty applications, further processing is required.
Once the metal heats and begins to flow, you must NOT stop the downward movement until you have completed beading over the flange. White hot, is too hot and will drastically shorten the life of the drill.
That is the drill that will take you to the heaven. Don´t beleave in me that believes in you, dont believe in yourself that believes in me, believe in you that believes in yourself... Who the fuck do you think i am?!?
flo drill video. watching work stuff. new low. only time it's fun is when a chunk of red hot steel spits off at your face. the paste is sticky as hell too.
this is a technic not for drilling holes but for getting more material for threading ok you get a hole allso :-) and you can du this on any drill press
This process is not to merely drill a hole. Thermal drilling is almost always employed to provide an extended surface for threading, in thinner material, eliminating the need to weld a threaded nut, for fastening.
i use this at work a lot. I have literally drilled 1500+ holes in 2.5mm wall thickness stainless steel tube. It has only just started going blunt. We also use an M8 tungsten carbide form tap with it which is still holding up well.
Okay now I got it...it's cutting using pure friction, hence no burrs and really good finish, without loosing any material...but, such are not commonly used...
thats a minor market relative to the hole making industry. most hole making results in clean and burr-less holes. Need threads? Many ways to accomplish that. This isn't the only way.
S235J2G3 image looked dangerus whit the flying peces of metal going every were and also i agree whit organicdrew a bout the bacteria and also the pece that comes down from the drill will be very week be cose of the manipulation of the steel i would rather velt it to the metal to give the fastener some suport if it´s important for thad kind of work
LOL did I piss you off by by saying its sloppy? ha. I have been going all my life thinking a drill makes a round hole. Maybe I will try the square bit next time. And if your going to thread that hole, fine, this system works. If you dont, just a huge burr to me.
I'm at the weird part of RUclips...Again..
yeah, this isn't even close to bordering the weird part of RUclips.
LazyH-Online malikrqduaur n
Lol how is drilling metal weird
+mike dugan Because that isn't normal drilling, but by melting through the different materials that is listed at below video. Metal drilling is slow process and this is fast, fee seconds per hole. But bad side is that this leaves material around hole so it can't be used so well as normal drill.
Might be helpful if in the description they put a URL where to get them or at least a bit more information so people would know what is going on and why. I'll have to see if they have some for 1/4 inch taps and #6 and #8 as I use them frequently.
really innovative... excellent for home projects for a very custom/pro look. Agreed that you wouldn't want to use this in the brewing industry, but excellent for many applications.
wtf am i doing here i have a exam tommorrow
+quirijn van Wingen same hahahahha
+100ignacio100 oooooooooooooooo, aburn.
+quirijn van Wingen me too...
same as the rest of us...
did you pass?
neat bit....would have been nice to get some voice over...but I got the point.
Did I seriously just sit here and watch things getting drilled for 3 minutes?
ThundertonTV Did you learn that from Call of Duty?
ThundertonTV You don't even spell either. Fucking loser.
yes, and i bet you tried to think of how you can justify getting one too. everyone needs more tools!!!!
fitztheviking not gonna lie, I kinda tried.
Some material dose leave litter you can see it in the video but that being said this thing works amazing is it the bit or is the drill press different
It all becomes clear...fantastic.
how long do you have to let it cool down before you drill the next hole?
This is sooo awesome, i wish more people to understand why.
For me it seems like very creative and extremely helpful idea for somewhat light jobs.
Just imagine, you can have a quick thread from the side of a thin walled pipe !
That would be useful in the shop I used to work at. We worked with lots of stainless HSS with lots of holes drilled and tapped. Often have to tack a nut or extra plate inside or on top to give some thread depth, and it is all food grade so the no filings is a huge bonus as well. With any production tool, longevity is an important question, but the time savings on cleanup and bonus tapping strength is huge.
Did you see how red that drill bit got? The power of friction is incredible!
That it does not cut through but push aside, leaving enough material to thread.
No waste, no inserts, no nuts. Nice.
Now how do you get rid of the excess metal? Grinder? Additional work!
Leo Moralina You can usually clean that up with an old pocket knife pretty quickly
***** spam
Leo Moralina It is not intended for boring a clean hole. It is intended to produce excess material for extra thread surface.
exactly
+BurnerProducts RocketStoves I wonder if the metal around the hole become harder to tap, because it effectively gets heat treated.
These holes don't need to be deburred or cleaned up. The intent is leave more material to tap for a stronger threaded hole.
Is your point that the material doesn't flex as much as it would normally? I guess I still don't get it.
Check out their website. This isn't a drill and you can't use a drill or drill press. You have to have something a lot more powerfull. A collumn drilling machine or NC or CNC machine. You'll have to click the little British flag to see it in English.
Can someone explain why this is preferable to just a drill+center drill? I don't quite understand. Kinda looks like it will start a fire, too (I know it won't really)
@GeneralG1810 Coolant would only ruin the effect of this kind of drill. This isn't your typical toothed drill bit, Instead it uses friction to melt out the centerpoint
Im a welder/fabricator by trade, i can see many uses for this system on the race car chassis i build.
Actually quite handy if you want to tap thin metal it will give you a little extra meat to grip onto.
Thats cool
+Robert Ritchie there's threaded rivets for that...
+KastaRules right, but this makes use of the existing metal, no need for extra weight (that does matter in some applications), or any more than 2 steps.
Neat! I'd be concerned about introducing weak points from heat stress.
The bits wouldn't last long as they are constantly heated cherry red then slow cooled-this would make them softer.Try doing this with a normal tungsten drill and it would be snafu
after the first hole!
is that a dril bit or a grinder pleas respond
drilling and treading at desame time,no hand tapping,super Excellent.
it's not threading at the same time as the drilling. they still tapped it afterwards to show the benefit of having the extra big burr created by the "drill".
How noisy is this? Is it inexpensive and portable? Will it work on bank vaults? Asking for a friend...
No. Bank vaults are way too thick. But the process is as quiet as the machine driving the bit. They are expensive, though.
es estupendo ,excelente herramienta de barrenado...perfora,hace cuerda...increible...
and whats the inovational part of this?
+Christoph Schneider You can make room for a screw into a thin metal sheet without welding a nut!
+Rodolfo Agustinho But how is that innovative?
+_404_Error
before this, one had to drill a hole, place a rivet, set the rivet, thread the rivet (or pay more for threaded rivets), then secure the rivet in place either with adhesive or a tack weld. rivet and ashesive/weld add extra weight and weak spots.
creating the rivet from the existing metal and then threading it creates a perfect bond without the need for any extra weight or work.
TL;DR: It takes a 3-5 step process down to 2. That saves LOADS of time, energy, and resources over the span of a project.
I-Love-CO Mountains Then don't use fucking rivets.
+_404_Error Well, fucker, those fucking rivets are fucking necessary, because fucking otherwise there would be fucking nothing to fucking hold the fucking thread. Fucker.
Dont use it on items sensitive to specific harness. Other than that, this is brilliant, and has a multitude of uses!!
what about the mechanical properties of the stock material wouldnt they be affected by the heat? just like the welding process which weakens material because of the heat
someday ,someone will invent something called "coolant"
yes i know, but it weakens the material. it changes the properties as said in groover´s book
*****
i should have been more specific on this,
for the presentation there is no coolant used ( so we can see what happens ) in work conditions there is lots of coolant used to prevent such extreme overheating, anyway you are right there is while the production process it get's hot but not hot enough to weaken the material to much, should it be still get weak through the heating you can just take the hot steel and cool it fast in a cooling bath so it gets strong again. i dont say its a perfect solution but it is a cheap solution. hope this helps a little bit, take care :)
Bernd Narr your are a shitty person
paul mayernick
so what ?
do ypu think this makes you a good person...
paulmayernick@yahoo.com
OK lets say I am interested, how do I buy these ? website ?
awesome that would come in handy if it could be used on a drill in the field instead of cutting threading and installing tees on pipes just drill and tap
What's the advantage compared to conventional drilling ? it just create hot spots in the metal parts, create an fat edge which would have to be removed after. Well I can't figure out the purpose of that so called " innovative technique " !
it leaves no chips so it's easy to cleanup and those flat edges on round stock can be exactly what you want and then this is a good solution
you've got something longer than just the tube's wall thickness to tap threads
Right. I see heat fatigued material the square stock started to warp and blue is burn damaged material which is radiating out past the drill hole. Maybe if anything a faster technique and a bit that lasts longer, but if you have to debur you way passed lost the extra time gained. I'm not a machinist so I could be missing something.
*****
Umm considering they tap it in the video I'm going to say that it works....
***** "Yeah. You go ahead and try to tap threads into that steel that's been heated red hot and cooled and see what happens."
You can see 2 holes being threaded at the end of the video....
Heating steel to cherry red and allowing it cool slowly is known as normalizing or annealing, this process strips the steel of any heat treatment properties, and leaves it soft.
Looks like a great way to create bosses, no swarf and maximised length of thread! Far stronger than conventional drilling and tapping!
This melts a tenon on it what could be used to tap stuff into making a larger surface for the screw to hold, this is perfect for certain puposes. I think some central heating companies are very interested for mounting sensors and stuf this way. Making structures for hanging their systems on. And so on. Great saves on production and welding. Just a drill and tap in the process some kind of o-ring and it's water tight.
Can this machine drill through Granite or Limestone counter-tops?
im pretty sure they won´t melt and create this effect no
How does the drill bit survive all that friction heating?
Does it have a cutting edge, or does it work entirely from friction?
Being able to add a tapped hole is nifty. What are the applications of this process?
I think its made of industrial diamond or ceramic
this is a DC current shortage as like in spot welding
The bit is made of tugsten carbide. Since it is a sintered ceramic of sorts, it can withstand incredibly high heat without any affect to itself.
No cutting edge, but they tend to be shaped like a very rounded square rather than a circle down the axis of rotation.
Applications are mainly to allow more than just a few threads to be cut into thin wall material.
Im pretty sure you just do maximum speed for most friction and the "feed" is done by hand just push as hard as you can.
What's the benefit of this? Creating a bigger contact area for the screw?
yes.
burr is the point of this kind of drilling, its so you can have a thinner plate while using the consistent burr to tap the hole you made.
Who all are recommended this after 12 years
Wow, that's impressive and very handy.
Does anyone know the metal of the tip,tungsten?
Aus welchem Material besteht denn der erste Bohrer???
I thought it was useless until they started threading it, then it made sense.
* No material is lost. The excess material forms a sleeve that is about 3 times longer than the original thickness of the target material, which makes it possible to make very strong bolt joints in thin material.
* It is a clean process because no litter (particles) is produced.
* No access needed to back of workpiece, as with rivet nuts.
* Tool life span is upwards of 25 times longer than conventional drills.
The holder is made to form the sleeve, it is part of the tool.
Totally different application. It looks like they want the tenon and the flange for bolting into. A twist bit or a spur bit would only leave the thickness of the wall. Once tapped there would only be a few threads, where this technique leaves many more threads and is much quicker with no chips left to clean up. In a big production this would be much more efficient. The bigger downside is the strength of the threads, they would wear out over repeated use.
where Ican bye that tool?
Its so lovely to watch it turn into 'red' slowly at 0:48
It would muck up any temper etc OK for mild steel though
Exactly what I was thinking.... that and the quality of the holes. That said it is fast.
Ei näyttäisi tulevan kovin kummoista katkolastua... i see some loosen edge, perhaps some coolant wanted. Best regards Swedish Machinist
Hello, what is the material used as punch '.??
ou peut on acheter cette outils
No metal is lost, which is good, you get more surface to tap and the drill lifetime is somewhere in the realms of 25 times longer than normal cutting drills.
That would be awsome to own as attaching parts to a motorcycle frame can be hard work at times with drilling and threading or captive nuts this seems to create a perfect base for threads
* No material is lost. The excess material forms a sleeve that is about 3 times longer than the original thickness of the target material, which makes it possible to make very strong bolt joints in thin material.
* It is a clean process because no litter (particles) is produced.
* No access needed to back of workpiece, as with rivet nuts.
* Tool life span is upwards of 25 times longer than conventional drills.
At first I was like what, that's totally dumb then I kept thinking about how you could thread more in your already limited space. I like it.
I finally understood the concept. Please excuse my ignorance.
You could just use a riv nut, but I guess this looks cooler.
How come the job dispenses so much heat even at such low RPM's?
it is an induction machine that heats it up.
Think this is called flow drilling, haven't tried it yet but looks cool.
what the hell are the bits made from?
збс где купить такое сверло?
I do this at work, its called flowdrill. It's a pain in the ass.
It is for small wall Sizes of pipes, when you need to screw something in.
The material melts into the pipe and you have more space for cutting the screw thread.
This drill is nuclear just like those secret ones that make all the tunnels and area51 like places.
Dónde se puede comprar????
Нагрев за счет трения?
Next task : Drill to the Center of the Earth
By my understanding, the tip applies heat that softens the metal, and pressure is applied to move away the material.. I like it.
This technique is only useful for a very little spectrum of applications. From the metallographic point of view, as the metal is getting to hot, the crystal structure of the metal is deformed. The "hot drilled" point will have so higher hardness levels than the other part of the metal that the metal Grains near the hole will be so much and small in size than the whole other metal body, that homogeneity is sucked!! ex. A stainless steel pipe at high pressures with a tension using this hole, a ring around the hole will break off like an apple. For sure, for heavy duty applications, further processing is required.
what does it do to wood
It's not really drilling is it? If there's no cutting shouldn't it be called something else entirely?
Once the metal heats and begins to flow, you must NOT stop the downward movement until you have completed beading over the flange. White hot, is too hot and will drastically shorten the life of the drill.
for taping and drill longevity, good point.
That is the drill that will take you to the heaven. Don´t beleave in me that believes in you, dont believe in yourself that believes in me, believe in you that believes in yourself...
Who the fuck do you think i am?!?
+Nacho Franc Oh, OH! I know!
Nacho Franc?
NobodyNowhereKnowhow
Yes!
+Nacho Franc i am ashamed that i know, bro.
the "burr" is intentional, this way you have extra material to thread as shown in the video.
the drill produces too much heat and doesn't really remove muck material. the bit mostly pushes the extra material t the side
flo drill video. watching work stuff. new low. only time it's fun is when a chunk of red hot steel spits off at your face. the paste is sticky as hell too.
Hi my name is renato
I am from Përu
In peru buy this tool?
No pienso que venden esto en Latino-America
this is a technic not for drilling holes but for getting more material for threading ok you get a hole
allso :-) and you can du this on any drill press
Two seconds to drill, two hours to clean up the hole... lol
This process is not to merely drill a hole. Thermal drilling is almost always employed to provide an extended surface for threading, in thinner material, eliminating the need to weld a threaded nut, for fastening.
the thing with any drilling is how long does it stay sharp?
Sharpness is not the essential but hardness. Here no metal cutting.
It's a friction bit. Lot's of speed and pressure.
A better question would be how much can it take, and for how long.
i use this at work a lot. I have literally drilled 1500+ holes in 2.5mm wall thickness stainless steel tube. It has only just started going blunt. We also use an M8 tungsten carbide form tap with it which is still holding up well.
***** its not friction heated, the heat comes from an induction machine so the temperature can be controlled. the bit is just pushing the metal aside.
Okay now I got it...it's cutting using pure friction, hence no burrs and really good finish, without loosing any material...but, such are not commonly used...
Alright I understand why this would be preferable in that case. Thanks for your time.
I think this way you won't end up with a crack developing at the drilled hole, but I don't see many practical uses of the end result.
what is difrnt frm order ?
It is very fine tool, I never seen this before.
thats a minor market relative to the hole making industry. most hole making results in clean and burr-less holes. Need threads? Many ways to accomplish that. This isn't the only way.
Stone drillbits?
metoda e numeste AUTOFRETARE [sper sa traduca corect] si se foloseste in electrotehnica de exemplu.
And what is the name of the tool?????????????????
Drill bit.
Drill Press
Flo-Drill is one brand I have used.
That's how they want them...if they want a clean hole they would use a regular drll bit and countersinking bit,...
that's genius
Of course any heat treatment would need to be after this operation, or at least take it into account.
Looks like the RPG impact with slow motion camera.
S235J2G3 image looked dangerus whit the flying peces of metal going every were and also i agree whit organicdrew a bout the bacteria and also the pece that comes down from the drill will be very week be cose of the manipulation of the steel i would rather velt it to the metal to give the fastener some suport if it´s important for thad kind of work
LOL did I piss you off by by saying its sloppy? ha. I have been going all my life thinking a drill makes a round hole. Maybe I will try the square bit next time. And if your going to thread that hole, fine, this system works. If you dont, just a huge burr to me.
Who said these pieces are hardened?