Awesome content! Have you played with those maroon compliant wheels and are they squishy enough? How could we attach them to regular andy mark motors? We will be ordering those rev motors once they are in stock!
We did not have any of the maroon compliant wheels, so we will leave that question for someone at AndyMark. As for your second question, Andymark wheels have the same hole pattern as Tetrix, and rev makes a hub for that pattern as well: www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1147/
There are two pillow blocks on the REV site. REV-41-1317 - 15mm Bearing Pillow Block is when you want the hex shaft to rotate, like the wheels on a drivetrain, gearbox, or an arm. We use these pillow blocks commonly. REV-41-1316 - 15mm Hex Pillow Block is for when you want to mount a hex shaft, but you do not want it to rotate. We personally rarely use these because usually when we use hex shafts we want motion, and when we want stiff structure we use extrusion.
Quick question - can you grab glyphs diagonally? Love your design, by the way - I was going to do something similar, but with a diagonal plate instead. Thanks!
For your relic recoverer, why not intake it the same way as the glyphs, and have the whole upper claw mechanism extend out to the zones? Although I do like your envelope idea :)
Do you mean like shown in this video? ruclips.net/video/MxnQ_lab7u0/видео.html The idea of the relic recover mechanism in this video is a 100% success rate. Having to rely on a the same grabber designed to only pick up glyphs would ultimately lead to matches where sometimes the the relic is successful, but other times the relic is dropped, followed by struggles to regain control as the clock counts down. A manipulator for the relic should be able to grab the relic in the laying down position quickly, and place it upright on the other side of the field quickly. These mechanisms should be designed with driver error in mind since the end game clock is counting down and the drivers are stressed to move fast.
About how long did it take to score 1 glyph for your robot once you sped it up and practiced driving? We are trying to weigh out the different ways of scoring points and seeing that is a reasonable amout of glyphs that can be scored when picking 1 up at a time.
To answer that question properly, it would take about a week of fine tuning and driver practice. The goal of this robot was to drive forward, pick up a glyph, drive backward while lifting the arm, and scoring the glyph without ever having to waste time turning around. That strategy would certainly be achievable over multiple weeks of tuning and practice, but not during a weekend build.
When you approach a block, and attempt to wheel it into your robot... how do you ensure the block stays straight? Our blocks like to rotate when we try to wheel them in. Thanks.
Try controlling the wheels individually. When the glyphs do not stay straight, have the driver of the intake mechanism rotate the blocks during the intake.
Hello! How did you mount the Andymark Orbital 20s (NOT normal NeverRest 20s) motors to the REV 15 mm extrusion? We can't figure that out. Also, how did you put the hex gear on the Andymark motor shaft? Thanks so much for your help!
If you have an AndyMark motor and want to put a hex gear on it, then you will need to take the stock gearbox off and purchase a gearbox with a hex output shaft, like this one www.revrobotics.com/REV-41-1065Alternatively, you can purchase a motor with this gearbox already attached www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1301/ .If you absolutely do not want to do either of those, you can have your stock AM motor with a sprocket drive a hex shaft with a sprocket.
This motor bracket is designed to mount AM Orbital 20 motor to the REV 15mm extrustion. www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1027b/The whole pattern on the bracket will match both the AM and REV motors.
Good morning. Thank you for the great video. I have a few questions about parts and assembly of your 4" Compliant Wheels: Are you using an 8mm bore on the 4" wheels? What size collars are you using with set screws on hex shaft? Is the hole inside the collars round or hex-shaped? How are you attaching the hex motors to the frame? We are looking for specific parts (Andymark, RevRobotics, etc). Thanks so much for the speedy response. We are behind and need some additional mentoring. Much appreciated. Linda @ Tech Tonix team 11103.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
3:46 they're the exact opposite of us...we the programmers blame the builders for everything ;)
Just found your channel and LOVE IT!!!! I'm a new coach for FTC and like the way you guys present material
The mechanism at 1:54 was popular for FRC 2016
Awesome content! Have you played with those maroon compliant wheels and are they squishy enough? How could we attach them to regular andy mark motors? We will be ordering those rev motors once they are in stock!
We did not have any of the maroon compliant wheels, so we will leave that question for someone at AndyMark. As for your second question, Andymark wheels have the same hole pattern as Tetrix, and rev makes a hub for that pattern as well: www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1147/
Are you allowed to used kits?
What is the bearing pillow block for? I didn't understand the description at rev haha
There are two pillow blocks on the REV site. REV-41-1317 - 15mm Bearing Pillow Block is when you want the hex shaft to rotate, like the wheels on a drivetrain, gearbox, or an arm. We use these pillow blocks commonly. REV-41-1316 - 15mm Hex Pillow Block is for when you want to mount a hex shaft, but you do not want it to rotate. We personally rarely use these because usually when we use hex shafts we want motion, and when we want stiff structure we use extrusion.
www.revrobotics.com/ftc/motion/bearings-linear-slides-pillow-blocks/
Quick question - can you grab glyphs diagonally?
Love your design, by the way - I was going to do something similar, but with a diagonal plate instead.
Thanks!
Nice. Just one question: what do those kids sitting in the background do?
Which motor mount did you use?
For your relic recoverer, why not intake it the same way as the glyphs, and have the whole upper claw mechanism extend out to the zones? Although I do like your envelope idea :)
Do you mean like shown in this video? ruclips.net/video/MxnQ_lab7u0/видео.html
The idea of the relic recover mechanism in this video is a 100% success rate. Having to rely on a the same grabber designed to only pick up glyphs would ultimately lead to matches where sometimes the the relic is successful, but other times the relic is dropped, followed by struggles to regain control as the clock counts down. A manipulator for the relic should be able to grab the relic in the laying down position quickly, and place it upright on the other side of the field quickly. These mechanisms should be designed with driver error in mind since the end game clock is counting down and the drivers are stressed to move fast.
About how long did it take to score 1 glyph for your robot once you sped it up and practiced driving? We are trying to weigh out the different ways of scoring points and seeing that is a reasonable amout of glyphs that can be scored when picking 1 up at a time.
To answer that question properly, it would take about a week of fine tuning and driver practice. The goal of this robot was to drive forward, pick up a glyph, drive backward while lifting the arm, and scoring the glyph without ever having to waste time turning around. That strategy would certainly be achievable over multiple weeks of tuning and practice, but not during a weekend build.
When you approach a block, and attempt to wheel it into your robot... how do you ensure the block stays straight? Our blocks like to rotate when we try to wheel them in. Thanks.
Try controlling the wheels individually. When the glyphs do not stay straight, have the driver of the intake mechanism rotate the blocks during the intake.
Hello! How did you mount the Andymark Orbital 20s (NOT normal NeverRest 20s) motors to the REV 15 mm extrusion? We can't figure that out. Also, how did you put the hex gear on the Andymark motor shaft?
Thanks so much for your help!
If you have an AndyMark motor and want to put a hex gear on it, then you will need to take the stock gearbox off and purchase a gearbox with a hex output shaft, like this one www.revrobotics.com/REV-41-1065Alternatively, you can purchase a motor with this gearbox already attached www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1301/ .If you absolutely do not want to do either of those, you can have your stock AM motor with a sprocket drive a hex shaft with a sprocket.
This motor bracket is designed to mount AM Orbital 20 motor to the REV 15mm extrustion. www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1027b/The whole pattern on the bracket will match both the AM and REV motors.
Can you make a video on how you program your robots?
how many glyphs were you able to score in an actual match?
These robots do not compete in actual matches. They are built simply to provide the community with ideas, and point students in the right direction.
Why did you hinge the intake?
Good morning. Thank you for the great video. I have a few questions about parts and assembly of your 4" Compliant Wheels: Are you using an 8mm bore on the 4" wheels? What size collars are you using with set screws on hex shaft? Is the hole inside the collars round or hex-shaped? How are you attaching the hex motors to the frame? We are looking for specific parts (Andymark, RevRobotics, etc). Thanks so much for the speedy response. We are behind and need some additional mentoring. Much appreciated. Linda @ Tech Tonix team 11103.
NICE
FIRST
HAHAH
Ayyyyyy, someone got it.
FTC 3737 Hank's Tanks 😂😂😂😂👌🏼👌🏼
I get it xD that's funny
Questions on starting a FIRST Alumni group on your campus? Email me at alumni@firstinspires.org
Please can I get a free kit for my robotics competition