Your gonna cause me all kinda mayhem at my national IPMS show when I finally get at building a plane kit and “ruin” it like this😁😁 I’ve also tested out MMP and found them real easy to work with!
Tried this last night and was really impressed with not only the ease, but also the results. I don't have any MM metallics, so I used an Allclad instead (defeats the environmental benefits of MMP, I know...) and got some great methods set for my Doolittle Raider B-25 on the bench.
Great to hear, and def get the 3 MMC paints at some point. They’re brilliant metallics, very underrated (the rest of their metals are hobby standard and optional). Extremely durable 💪 I’d add too, pick a spot and just burnish the heck out of it, it’ll pop to a full gloss. Blending this in and out of a matte paint job will liven up the various sheens from the real thing
MMC-001, 002, 003 Chrome, Brass and Gold -- the gloss bases aren't needed unless you are actually spraying for true chrome etc (I'm using them as a base metal layer not as a true "chrome") - plus you can blend and mix them for some alternate shades/tones between them, and/or add a drop of paint etc. for color tinting.
@@rs.pso I got a few of the MM metallics and began playing around with them, but that chrome is insane. I just put it over some black and gray MM primer as a test on a scrap piece I didn’t even do any surface sanding or polishing etc and it was better than any Alclad II I think I’ve shot.
@@matthewashley7138 awesome, that’s been my experience too. It’s tops and much nicer to deal with overall. Super durable too, I let it kick off for a few minutes before heat drying, it loves the warm air lol
You don't...I do this completely against the grain of the hobby ;) Live Stream Ep89 goes over this. I only spot varnish to level the edge of the decals and kill the gloss, or go with painted markings. Secondary spraying of thin coats after decals is another excellent process and allows for more of the same.
Don't all finishes have that issue? Use jigs, stands, holders, bases, etc.- wash your hands, use gloves...do what works. This process is no less prone to that worry. Go for it and see how it goes!
Great demo, thanks Mike. Always amazed with the MMP burnishing properties. If I am not mistaken, you did not use poly on the Olive Drab on this one, correct? so that the MMP can chip with water. My understanding is that with the Poly it basically turns into polyurethane paint so it can't really be chipped with water anymore (correct me if I am wrong). But does the poly make a difference in the burnishing? Would you say that without the poly, MMP burnishes more or less? Or no real difference? I am not sure about that myself. Thanks!
Poly is handy if you want more gloss than matte. It can be burnished to 2K levels 🤘 For chipping, add in a CF or non-alcohol HS and you should be good. It won’t quite do this style so knowing the outcome is how you’ll select the combo to arrive at your end game…it’s never a one way only works, rather what is the subject, finish goals, etc
@@rs.p got it, thanks! I am experimenting now with a base layer of MMP with poly (over a MMP primer), no chipping fluid, and then a second MMP layer without poly. Then weather straight with water. It works well, for a more subtle chipping effect, or rather a wearing-down effect, almost like lightly sanding with sandpaper between the layers (I do that too). It takes a lot of experimenting, but I prefer it to HS or CF. I also tried your recommendation of MMP with poly to make it more durable, and then another acrylic (I didn't have any Atom paints, so I used Archive-X), and then chip with a lacquer thinner. That was very interesting too, but Archive-X was quite tough and Gamsol did not do much, so I switched to Turpentine and it worked great (but you need to be careful with turps, it can easily remove the top acrylic completely). Most interestingly, the MMP plus poly (quite tough too) was chipping with turps in a very subtle, controlled and minimal way, tiny chips, very much in scale for smaller scale models (1:72, 1:144 etc.). Lots of options and as you say, it all depends on what the end goal is.
Do you normally use the MMP Poly? And if so, do you leave it out when you are weathering? I really, really want to like MMP but I don't find it at all durable. Am I doing something wrong?
Short answer is no I don't normally use Poly. I spray the bulk of my work without. Poly is optional (and I always show or mention it when I am using it, when not then it's not being used, to help clarify). It has great qualities, however it does kill the matte. That said you can burnish the regular paint to full gloss in either case. I'm not sure what to advise without more info. *Typical issues with MMP revolve around using the wrong chemicals with it or going in with too much water. It's water soluble (ie can react quickly to it, Poly can help here if you need a crutch of sorts for a particular layer) -- and does not like alcohol or solvents in any way (cleaning/thinning/etc). If you use any of those to clean and thin, switch that out to water and thinner only. You can weather the same Poly or no poly, however the glossier the paint the less an oil will bite (using OPR) so there are work arounds and various aspects to be aware of. I can help with more specifics - cheers~
@@rs.p Thanks Mike. Sorry I realise that short comment doesn't help with any diagnosis. I try and follow MMP instructions to the letter but I find that it can sometimes be lifted by masking tape and doesn't play well with just about any other layer I put on it - even just putting on decals can cause problems sometimes. Is there any particular clear finish that you'd recommend to use to protect the MMP colour coat?
I have a decal episode with the last Live Stream 89 - and also a follow up video coming on decal repairs coming soon (same wings in fact). I spot varnish around the decals when done and don't get into sealing layers. Again, not sure on specifics, so it's hard for me to understand what you are specifically doing or not doing. I'd consider my Patreon for more 1-1, it's likely a collection of small tweaks to get the most for you. The Tempest and P-61 projects here are all MMP only with no varnish except over insignias decals, and the Tempest camo was a stencil masking exercise live with no issues of lifting the paint.(I understand this is a common issue).
Thin wet layers is always a key with MMP. If it goes on dry it can definitely lift. Applied in thin wet layers it can be pretty damn durable. A trick you see a lot of guys using now is the cp30 mix with is 30% MMP clear primer (mms007) with 70% MMP thinner. Very durable but can affect your chipping and burnishing in weathering.
playing a little catch up but great video as always question i didnt see the cf or hairspray applied did that process come in after the painting, great work thank you
Weekend is here and finally managed to watch the video in peace, enjoying a cold one.Thanks for sharing 😁
Cheers!
Always nice to see you skills at work Coach
Thank you Guy
With planes, you have to remember to always wipe front to back. :)
Thanx for sharing!
Always!
Your gonna cause me all kinda mayhem at my national IPMS show when I finally get at building a plane kit and “ruin” it like this😁😁 I’ve also tested out MMP and found them real easy to work with!
Goals! ;)
Tried this last night and was really impressed with not only the ease, but also the results. I don't have any MM metallics, so I used an Allclad instead (defeats the environmental benefits of MMP, I know...) and got some great methods set for my Doolittle Raider B-25 on the bench.
Great to hear, and def get the 3 MMC paints at some point. They’re brilliant metallics, very underrated (the rest of their metals are hobby standard and optional). Extremely durable 💪
I’d add too, pick a spot and just burnish the heck out of it, it’ll pop to a full gloss. Blending this in and out of a matte paint job will liven up the various sheens from the real thing
@@rs.p when you say “the 3 MMC” metallics does this mean the chrome, and the two bases?
MMC-001, 002, 003 Chrome, Brass and Gold -- the gloss bases aren't needed unless you are actually spraying for true chrome etc (I'm using them as a base metal layer not as a true "chrome") - plus you can blend and mix them for some alternate shades/tones between them, and/or add a drop of paint etc. for color tinting.
@@rs.pso I got a few of the MM metallics and began playing around with them, but that chrome is insane. I just put it over some black and gray MM primer as a test on a scrap piece I didn’t even do any surface sanding or polishing etc and it was better than any Alclad II I think I’ve shot.
@@matthewashley7138 awesome, that’s been my experience too. It’s tops and much nicer to deal with overall. Super durable too, I let it kick off for a few minutes before heat drying, it loves the warm air lol
That subtle burnishing technique looks great. What happens when you finish it off with a clear coat of varnish?
You don't...I do this completely against the grain of the hobby ;)
Live Stream Ep89 goes over this. I only spot varnish to level the edge of the decals and kill the gloss, or go with painted markings. Secondary spraying of thin coats after decals is another excellent process and allows for more of the same.
@@rs.p Thanks, so does the finish remain vulnerable to finger marks and dampness from handling after completion?
Don't all finishes have that issue? Use jigs, stands, holders, bases, etc.- wash your hands, use gloves...do what works. This process is no less prone to that worry.
Go for it and see how it goes!
Great demo, thanks Mike. Always amazed with the MMP burnishing properties. If I am not mistaken, you did not use poly on the Olive Drab on this one, correct? so that the MMP can chip with water. My understanding is that with the Poly it basically turns into polyurethane paint so it can't really be chipped with water anymore (correct me if I am wrong). But does the poly make a difference in the burnishing? Would you say that without the poly, MMP burnishes more or less? Or no real difference? I am not sure about that myself. Thanks!
Poly is handy if you want more gloss than matte. It can be burnished to 2K levels 🤘
For chipping, add in a CF or non-alcohol HS and you should be good. It won’t quite do this style so knowing the outcome is how you’ll select the combo to arrive at your end game…it’s never a one way only works, rather what is the subject, finish goals, etc
@@rs.p got it, thanks! I am experimenting now with a base layer of MMP with poly (over a MMP primer), no chipping fluid, and then a second MMP layer without poly. Then weather straight with water. It works well, for a more subtle chipping effect, or rather a wearing-down effect, almost like lightly sanding with sandpaper between the layers (I do that too). It takes a lot of experimenting, but I prefer it to HS or CF.
I also tried your recommendation of MMP with poly to make it more durable, and then another acrylic (I didn't have any Atom paints, so I used Archive-X), and then chip with a lacquer thinner. That was very interesting too, but Archive-X was quite tough and Gamsol did not do much, so I switched to Turpentine and it worked great (but you need to be careful with turps, it can easily remove the top acrylic completely). Most interestingly, the MMP plus poly (quite tough too) was chipping with turps in a very subtle, controlled and minimal way, tiny chips, very much in scale for smaller scale models (1:72, 1:144 etc.). Lots of options and as you say, it all depends on what the end goal is.
Awesome as usual coach.
Thx Cliff
Do you normally use the MMP Poly? And if so, do you leave it out when you are weathering? I really, really want to like MMP but I don't find it at all durable. Am I doing something wrong?
Short answer is no I don't normally use Poly. I spray the bulk of my work without. Poly is optional (and I always show or mention it when I am using it, when not then it's not being used, to help clarify).
It has great qualities, however it does kill the matte. That said you can burnish the regular paint to full gloss in either case.
I'm not sure what to advise without more info.
*Typical issues with MMP revolve around using the wrong chemicals with it or going in with too much water. It's water soluble (ie can react quickly to it, Poly can help here if you need a crutch of sorts for a particular layer) -- and does not like alcohol or solvents in any way (cleaning/thinning/etc). If you use any of those to clean and thin, switch that out to water and thinner only.
You can weather the same Poly or no poly, however the glossier the paint the less an oil will bite (using OPR) so there are work arounds and various aspects to be aware of.
I can help with more specifics - cheers~
@@rs.p Thanks Mike. Sorry I realise that short comment doesn't help with any diagnosis. I try and follow MMP instructions to the letter but I find that it can sometimes be lifted by masking tape and doesn't play well with just about any other layer I put on it - even just putting on decals can cause problems sometimes. Is there any particular clear finish that you'd recommend to use to protect the MMP colour coat?
I have a decal episode with the last Live Stream 89 - and also a follow up video coming on decal repairs coming soon (same wings in fact). I spot varnish around the decals when done and don't get into sealing layers.
Again, not sure on specifics, so it's hard for me to understand what you are specifically doing or not doing. I'd consider my Patreon for more 1-1, it's likely a collection of small tweaks to get the most for you.
The Tempest and P-61 projects here are all MMP only with no varnish except over insignias decals, and the Tempest camo was a stencil masking exercise live with no issues of lifting the paint.(I understand this is a common issue).
No problem - I'd focus on your airbrushing and application. Replicate what I do on screen and see if that helps.
Thin wet layers is always a key with MMP. If it goes on dry it can definitely lift. Applied in thin wet layers it can be pretty damn durable. A trick you see a lot of guys using now is the cp30 mix with is 30% MMP clear primer (mms007) with 70% MMP thinner. Very durable but can affect your chipping and burnishing in weathering.
That’s mint mate, do you think burnishing it like that would be sufficiently flat enough to apply decals to without silvering?
Yes, please watch Live Stream 89, it was the topic of the stream 👍
playing a little catch up but great video as always question i didnt see the cf or hairspray applied did that process come in after the painting, great work thank you
None needed with MMP, we've been going over this process a ton on our Patreon, come check it out ;)
Absolutely i will definitely check it out
1st comment!!!!!!!!! Lets goooooooo!!!!!!