I have the same boat and want to add a second 7-inch screen. This video helped a lot, still trying to figure out how to mount it with the windshield. Thank you for sharing.
In general, the TI units are faster in response to inputs. This is seen when quickly switching between sonar, downscan, chart, and split screens ruclips.net/user/postUgkxeAxH15LxhjGlg5-CRYqjTGTEH0tbY4vk recommend The Hook units will show some lag on button pushes and screen switching. The big ticket item though is maps. If you install a mapping card such as Navionics or the free C-Map Genesis which has a lot of map detail, then moving around the map with the cursor or when running down the lake can lag significantly on the Hook units, but is seamless with the TI units.
Now that I've seen you ran a home made snake to pull that transducer wire (coat hangers) I'm more confident in doing the same using an electrician snake . Really liked how you showed hooking up the power to an existing electrical power strip in the console. Thanks again.
Very well done! I am installing the same unit in the dash but did not know the screws mount from the front Vs the back which would have been a huge effort. That tip alone saved me many headaches.
Great video. Thank you very real honest experience. I have the same boat…love it. Looking to add the same graph. Are you happy with the transducer placement you used? Does it work when the boat is on plane or only when at a troll / search speed
@@toulialee82 I have not. But I am also very hesitant to drill into the gel coat. If you do it carefully and take the proper precautions, you can do it without extra damage.
Have the same boat and changing the hook to the Garmin 93sv like you did. Are you happy with the location you put your transducer? Any issues with that location? And how many p clips did you install for the transducer cable to the transom? Thanks.
I just bought a Garmin 93SV for my boat project. My local marine supply store recommended running power from my Blue Sea fuse block. Another trusted source recommended running power strait from the battery with 10 gauge wire along with an inline fuse. Any suggestions?
Wire size is a function of current over the given distance. So look in the literature to see what kind of current the unit draws and then measure the distance. All kinds of tables online to calculate correct wire size.
The trusted source is wrong. Only a very few specialized devices should NOT be downstream of the battery switch - such as a boat which is left in the water all the time and needs a continuous bilge pump to drain rain water. The battery switch prevents battery drains when the boat is not in use. The wiring should be: battery positive lead to battery switch, then to master fuse (size per bus bar capacity), then to the positive bus bar, then to switch panel. The device is then wired into the switch panel and can be turned on and off at will. The negative return to the battery does not need to be switched, because if the positive current is broken by the switch, no current can leak. The battery switch prevents someone from turning on devices and draining the battery.
I'm installing the same unit on the same boat, my 93 uhd dont have holes in the corners of the graph to screw it in like yours, I'm I missing something? Tks for the video.
There should be a cover plate you can remove that will expose the holes. I had the same problem until I found it referenced in the manual. Do you have the paperwork that came with it? If not, DM us on Instagram.
when you put the positive wire to the fuse. Is it the black wire that you attach to the ground screw. I got my first boat and I am unsure about hooking up my fish finder.
on marine dc systems, red is always positive, and should be fused. black returns need no fuse. If you don't have a battery switch, you need to get one. When turned off, all battery drains are prevented. Pacific Yacht Systems has super tutorials.
I was wondering where I was going to connect my stuff too, but I was told maybe you want it on a switch so it don't run even when the vessel is off. Like connect to bilge switch
Only a very few specialized devices should NOT be downstream of the battery switch - such as a boat which is left in the water all the time and needs a continuous bilge pump to drain rain water. The battery switch prevents battery drains when the boat is not in use. The wiring should be: battery positive lead to battery switch, then to master fuse (size per bus bar capacity), then to the positive bus bar, then to switch panel. The device is then wired into the switch panel and can be turned on and off at will. The negative return to the battery does not need to be switched, because if the positive current is broken by the switch, no current can leak. The battery switch prevents someone from turning on devices and draining the battery.
You state you can’t use a jig saw, but you use a 1 foot hacksaw blade.
Still awesome install and great installation.
I have the same boat and want to add a second 7-inch screen. This video helped a lot, still trying to figure out how to mount it with the windshield. Thank you for sharing.
In general, the TI units are faster in response to inputs. This is seen when quickly switching between sonar, downscan, chart, and split screens ruclips.net/user/postUgkxeAxH15LxhjGlg5-CRYqjTGTEH0tbY4vk recommend The Hook units will show some lag on button pushes and screen switching. The big ticket item though is maps. If you install a mapping card such as Navionics or the free C-Map Genesis which has a lot of map detail, then moving around the map with the cursor or when running down the lake can lag significantly on the Hook units, but is seamless with the TI units.
Great install video. How did you end up liking this unit? Maybe I missed it, but I didn’t see a review video.
Now that I've seen you ran a home made snake to pull that transducer wire (coat hangers) I'm more confident in doing the same using an electrician snake . Really liked how you showed hooking up the power to an existing electrical power strip in the console. Thanks again.
that's awesome! thank you for watching and supporting our channel!
Thanks, just bought a new EM95SV, so this was and will be a help. Tight lines!
that's awesome! and thank you so much for your support!
Thank you, very informative!
Very well done! I am installing the same unit in the dash but did not know the screws mount from the front Vs the back which would have been a huge effort. That tip alone saved me many headaches.
awesome! thank you very much Robb! and thank you for watching.
Great video! Keep up the good content bro 💪
Thank you so much!
Great Job !!
Great video. Thank you very real honest experience. I have the same boat…love it. Looking to add the same graph. Are you happy with the transducer placement you used? Does it work when the boat is on plane or only when at a troll / search speed
Before leveling the install pattern be sure boat is level.
Good call out...
was thinking the same thing!
Mmmm The screen looks crooked. Just kidding looks great! Thanks for the video, Really helped a lot.
Good video brother
as always, thank you very much!!
You should of explained how that sensor that you hooked at the bottom back of the boat is what finds the fish
Is the Cv version basically the same thing minus side view? Thanks
Great video. Gives me idea how to install transducer on my 2021 z19 sport. Ty
Thank you very much!
Have you tried any portable mounts. Really hard to decide to drill into my fiberglass
@@toulialee82 I have not. But I am also very hesitant to drill into the gel coat. If you do it carefully and take the proper precautions, you can do it without extra damage.
Have the same boat and changing the hook to the Garmin 93sv like you did. Are you happy with the location you put your transducer? Any issues with that location? And how many p clips did you install for the transducer cable to the transom? Thanks.
On the power cable it’s a total of 4 cables, + and - BUT it’s 2 more skinnier than +and - one. Where’s those Cable will be Connect?
I just bought a Garmin 93SV for my boat project. My local marine supply store recommended running power from my Blue Sea fuse block. Another trusted source recommended running power strait from the battery with 10 gauge wire along with an inline fuse. Any suggestions?
Wire size is a function of current over the given distance. So look in the literature to see what kind of current the unit draws and then measure the distance. All kinds of tables online to calculate correct wire size.
The trusted source is wrong. Only a very few specialized devices should NOT be downstream of the battery switch - such as a boat which is left in the water all the time and needs a continuous bilge pump to drain rain water. The battery switch prevents battery drains when the boat is not in use. The wiring should be: battery positive lead to battery switch, then to master fuse (size per bus bar capacity), then to the positive bus bar, then to switch panel. The device is then wired into the switch panel and can be turned on and off at will. The negative return to the battery does not need to be switched, because if the positive current is broken by the switch, no current can leak. The battery switch prevents someone from turning on devices and draining the battery.
I'm installing the same unit on the same boat, my 93 uhd dont have holes in the corners of the graph to screw it in like yours, I'm I missing something? Tks for the video.
There should be a cover plate you can remove that will expose the holes. I had the same problem until I found it referenced in the manual. Do you have the paperwork that came with it? If not, DM us on Instagram.
when you put the positive wire to the fuse. Is it the black wire that you attach to the ground screw. I got my first boat and I am unsure about hooking up my fish finder.
on marine dc systems, red is always positive, and should be fused. black returns need no fuse. If you don't have a battery switch, you need to get one. When turned off, all battery drains are prevented. Pacific Yacht Systems has super tutorials.
Remember not to use just regular silicon to seal. It must be marine grade waterproof silicon or you will sink your boat.
I was wondering where I was going to connect my stuff too, but I was told maybe you want it on a switch so it don't run even when the vessel is off. Like connect to bilge switch
Only a very few specialized devices should NOT be downstream of the battery switch - such as a boat which is left in the water all the time and needs a continuous bilge pump to drain rain water. The battery switch prevents battery drains when the boat is not in use. The wiring should be: battery positive lead to battery switch, then to master fuse (size per bus bar capacity), then to the positive bus bar, then to switch panel. The device is then wired into the switch panel and can be turned on and off at will. The negative return to the battery does not need to be switched, because if the positive current is broken by the switch, no current can leak. The battery switch prevents someone from turning on devices and draining the battery.
Do you know of FISH finder with an IN-HULL transducer?