2013 Audi A8L Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- The "official" way to do this job is to remove the whole steering knuckle. It's possible to do it 100% on the vehicle if parts are not rusted together. This is why I buy cars from out of state now. It's like working on something new even though it's almost 10 years old.
That was the gettoest way to take off a axle nut I’ve ever seen 😂 but it worked
I have a 2005 Audi a8 with air suspension do you think I should take it to a shop or do it myself?
I'm not sure how different the '05 would be from this. I also don't know your capabilities or tool inventory. I would get the factory manual from erWin first:
erwin.audiusa.com/erwin/showHome.do
a 24 pass will let you download as much as you want in .pdf files. It's well worth the money. Then just look up the procedure and see if you think you can tackle it. I always do my own work, but I also keep spare cars around, I'll never be stranded. If you give it a try and get in a bind I'll do what I can to help here.
Get yourself an axle stand my friend. I don't see one in the video. Car jacks can fail from low hydraulic fluid. On the stub axle you can go to 3/4" breaker bar plus extension to move 200Nm.
I do need to be better about using those.
crazy good job m8 how much did you save ?
Not really sure, I rarely bother getting quotes from shops since it always comes in so high. I need to replace the solenoid for the piston cooling jets on this car and it was near $2k. The AC compressor has to be removed to access it, so lots of labor costs. Fortunately, there is a bypass and the cooling jets are always on if oil pressure gets high enough. I forget the exact number, but it was surprisingly low, like under 20psi. I'll try and do it this summer, part was like $35 and waiting in the garage.
So the hub and wheel bearing do not need to be pressed together?
If you want to follow the service manual perfectly you can use a press to put the hub in the bearing first. I do this with cars that don't have a bolt-in bearing assembly and require the bearing to be pressed into the hub as well. With these the hub and bearing interface can just be pulled together using the bolt and CV joint. The end of the CV is already the perfect size to push on the inner race and the torque required on the bolt makes more force than a press would need to seat the assembly together.
Where you buy the hub
I got this one on rockauto like a true degenerate. No problems so far, I paid $89 and looks like they are even cheaper now. I don't think it will.last 10 years, but for that price point I'm ok with it.
Bro how it s the name for that key to open the bolt from Bering ?
The one it had was a 19mm hex key. If I remember right the new bolt that came with the bearing used a 17mm. Depending on what brand bearing you buy they sometimes are a different size hex key. I just have a kit of the larger stuff since they are common for older VW transmission drain plugs. Best to pop the lugnut cap off and check through the wheel before committing to the work so you can go buy stuff if it's not the standard size 19mm hex key.
@@smsauce When I replaced my front passenger CV axle it came with a 17mm hex head bolt as a replacement for the 19mm factory.
Earthquake!