Hey Mark, loved the video. Been stringing for almost 50 years so I'm and old guy. But when I was in the tennis business (Penn and Prince), I participated in and attended many stringing seminars given by Lucien Nogues who was the men's tour stringer at the time (early 80's). He is now Tennis Director for Babolat. When asked how long it should take to string a racket, he would always reply. "if you're good, about 30 minutes. If you're really good, about 40 minutes." I always kept that in mind and wonder about those who string in 15 minutes. I'm sure you weave and tie-off very quickly, but I worry about tension loss in the first couple of hours. I have had similar discussions with many musicians of stringed instruments about the same issue - how often must I keep tuning to keep the correct tension to maintain the right pitch. As you know, string continues to stretch after you clamp (the biggest complaint about crank machines). If you stall before clamping on a continuous pull machine, the tensioner will continue to pull, thus insuring reduced tension loss after clamping. I still remember Lucien pinging the two middle mains, then the next two, and the next two etc. before starting the crosses (two piece stringing), to test the tension of each pair to make sure that they matched in pitch. He was a perfectionist. I'm interested in your and other's thoughts about the time it takes to string. Thanks.
I would love a full stringing tutorial with an emphasis on knots. I feel like I struggle getting the knot to seat well and then have less confidence in the string job as a whole. Great channel by the way!
Never even think of buying 2 point. By the way, Drop weight actually is more accurate than Crank. You never need to calibrate as you use it for many years. For crank type, you need to calibrate. It works on a spring loaded self-locking device. Once you crank to the set tension, the device will lock. The problem is if you calibrate it at 50lbs, it is accurate at 50lbs but if you want any tension higher, then you need to adjust the tensioner to tighter the spring load which is a rough estimate. Lastly Poly string loose tension very fast, by actual right once you pull a poly string at the desire tension, it need to continue pulling the string at the desire tension for few second before you clamp it and only drop weight and electric machine can do that. For crank type there is an alternative to string poly string that is a double pulling method to ensure the poly string don't drop too much tension. Electric machine have 2 types, one is a turning type which is not good (spring load) and the other type linear pulling. A good linear pulling has self-calibrating function everytime you turn on the machine. You may only need to calibrate it once in a very very long time. With all this said, the most important thing of a string job drill down to the consistency of a stringer. If you go to a stringer A with drop weight and string at 50lbs but actual tension is 48lbs. You won't know it if you keep going to the same stringer. If you switch to a stringer B using crank and you string at 50lbs and the result might be 45lbs, you might not like it, but if you ask stringer B to string at 54lbs, it maybe same as stringer A strung at 50lbs. Same goes to the electric type. End of the day, if you are buying for your ownself, I would prefer a drop weight as it is good for poly string vs the crank type. The only issues with drop weight is the drop weight has to be in close to horizontal position everytime you pull the string to be consistent. I know there is a drop weight machine which has a rachet system that you can adjust it so that the drop weight can land horizontal everytime. But I do suggest you buy a good electric stringing machine and it can last you for very long and it is way more fun to string. I am having the Tecnifibre Ergo One which is handmade in France. It cost me about $6000 usd at the time I bought it. I already recover the cost by helping friends and players to string their racket. If you bought a drop weight, its so slow and not user friendly that you might not want to do it commercially. Just some alternative for you guys to consider. If you make $10 per racket and you have 10 rackets to string a week, each month you can make $400 and you can make $4800 in a year. Lest than 2 years you already cover back the cost of the electric machine.
Yes yes yes, more string tutorials, knots, starting knots, hints, tips, weaving tutorials, measuring string, especially from a packet, I hate packets they always turn into bird's nests, give me a reel any day. Great video and I'm gonna think about investing in an electronic tensioner now over my crank. Hope you're well my man and dat hair is looking fly on the side and high, looks good. 😉
Mark makes many good points in this video. Some have mentioned the omission of clamp system discussion - fixed vs flying, and the effectiveness of the clamping surfaces and adjustments. You want fixed. There is also a range of racket clamping adjustment flexibility and speed. The Baiardo is not the best setup, it is designed for speed rather than flexibility. The lower end six point setups have a lot of knobs to turn, takes time and can be misadjusted to put unbalanced force on the frame. The higher end clamping systems have a better setup. There is also stiffness of the machine and spring-back which contribute to tension loss. Rotary vs linear tensioners wasn't mentioned either. In researching, buying and using a few machines I found a lot more differences than even the feature lists mention. Lockout tensioners are fast but not as consistent and at some point need calibration and mechanical maintenance. Drop weights are constant pull but accuracy depends on the patience of the stringer, and getting the arm consistently level and they can be mis-calibrated. Rotary tensioners require more string. Linear electronic tensioners have the most features and advantages, and maintaining calibration was an issue early on but technology has led to stable electronics and more accuracy. Pulling each string consistently long enough to relax it and reach accurate tension doesn't happen in a 15 minute string job. Weaving to avoid misweaves, wear and kinks takes a little extra time. Tying better knots takes a moment longer. Avoiding starting knots takes a few seconds more. Prefer quality over speed. Saving a few bucks on a machine might seem to be important in the short term, in the long run it gets amortized across thousands of string jobs and the extra cost doesn't matter but the quality and features may make a difference in the quality of the work, and in the health of the stringer due to ergonomics. Find a good used machine if you want to save. They sell fast so you have to be prepared. Move up when you understand better what is important to your process. Enjoy.
Helpful. Thanks! Strung several hundred rackets on a 6 point crank machine at a pro shop in the 80s and about 50 on a two point drop weight stringer at home. Took me about 20 minutes with the crank and at least 45 minutes with the drop weight…really do need to take your time and use caution with a two point. I remember once trying to string my wooden Bancroft Borg racket at 65 #s on two point machine and almost immediately had to back the tension off to 62 pounds, fearing the racket would brake in that machine at the higher tension. It was pretty dicey even at 62 and I think I didn’t string higher than 58 pounds with that stringer after that. Years later, I’m getting back into tennis and looking for a stringer. It’s just so convenient to string your own and you can try different set ups without spending so much.
I agree 100 percent your comments ! You tell it exactly as it is. I hope it helps beginner stringers and they listen to you. I have been stringing for over 50 years and just purchased what you show in your video. I bought the red gamma machine and the 2086 head and couldn't be happier. I did not need a Wilson Baiardo or higher priced electronic machine with all kinds of bells and whistles. I have also strung on pretty much all of the machines and brands over the years. I agree that one should set a budget and get good mount, clamps, tensioner and then be sure to clean clamps and do periodic maintenance. Ultimately, its practice and good technique! Thanks for a great video. Jerry
Professional stringer here and our company recently purchased the Gamma Progression II ILS machine. After about 50 stringings, I'd recommend it highly. Very easy and top quality.
Great advice Mark! I have a 6 point Gamma with a drop weight.. will probably upgrade it to electric tensioner in future. I personally dont mind the time spent in stringing the racket on drop weight as it's quite fun and relaxing to do for now.
Great video, Mark! One thing I would like to add is that all drop weights ARE NOT created equal (most but not all). I've had my Stringway ML100 with T92 clamps for almost 20 years and it's incredible. Unlike almost all other drop weight machines, the lever arm on mine does not have to be perfectly level to be at the correct tension. Insert the string, drop the arm and bam...it's at the desired tension. Of course, by design it's a constant pull tensioner also. The mounting system is awesome as well. 5 points off contact at the top and 4 at the bottom for a total of 9 points of contact supporting the racquet head during stringing. For about $1,000 one can get a fast, constant pull machine with excellent clamps, a tensioning device that won't break down or need electricity, and the best mounting system of any machine out there (IMO of course) 👍🏻
Ya I've got the Stringway ms140 constant pull stringer. Has the same mounting system as yours but uses a spring for tension. Very good stringing machine.
Im all for a high quality stringing machine and want to buy one in the future, but my $200 super simple drop weight is VERY reliable, consistent, easy to use, and has been a great investment. once you learn how to use it well, it is just as effective as anything...albeit a little slow
Spot on advice, but I'd actually recommend a drop weight with the Wise added (instead of the crank), to save a bit of money and space. The Gamma version is great, but I slightly preferred the Alpha Pioneer DC (clamps feel a little better to me). Wise drops in with no special mods using the drop weight adapter. Add a Babolat starting clamp and you've got something wonderful. I put mine on an inexpesive Walmart microwave cart, which is the perfect height.
Great video, not sure though if crank is really more accurate than dropweight. The dropweight applies constant pull. Many strings stretch quite a lot after reaching the tension, so the final tension using a crank will be quite a lot lower than dropweight or electronic machines.
Exactly my thinking. Historically, gravity has always been pretty consistant. I used to use crank before I got a WISE and I always thought a crank job felt terrible.
Agree here 8:25 - drop weight slower but more accurate than crank due to lack of constant pull of gravity or electronic tension head (thanks for video Mark!)
I started stringing because I felt like I was more string sensitive and less racquet sensitive when it came to tennis, it's therapeutic when you have the time.. You definitely gotta dive in get a bunch of stringing under your belt but you do get better and faster.. get a process that works, try different knots, figure out a few tricks, techniques.. I'm just stringing the 'Yonex' way, always two piece but I'm probably 6-8 minutes slower than you on average still if you're in the 13-15 range, obviously some wacky strings are more challenging (slower) than others to string (full Ultra Cable in a tight pattern I'm looking at you!). Nothing beats trying new strings/hybrid combos and being able to swap em if it sucks. Great video, I like your string review videos and seeing other people's techniques who've been stringing a long azz time, there's always something new to learn or get better at.
Just strung up both my racquets using a 2 decade old klippermate drop weight stringer my buddy gave me for 0$. It does a fantastic job as long as you know how to use it. The most important thing is knowing what you're doing. I've paid for stringing and gotten worse results from professional machines used by amateur stringers. The stringer is the most important part, not the machine.
My high school tennis coach taught me how to string a tennis racket and I used the cheapest of equipment 20 years ago. Now that I am playing tennis again, I hope I still remember how to string a racket.
im planning to buy a new tennis string machine. it hasn't been a year since i started stringing with my drop weight stringing machine and i do feel the same it takes a lot of time and tension is a a hit or a miss. Thank you for this Mark!
I dusted off my old Klippermate a couple years ago when I got back into tennis after a very long layoff. I did upgrade to the stringway floating clamps which are worlds better than the ones the Klippermate came with. Works good for me because I only string my own racquets with good old synthetic gut. I was considering getting a Prince Neos if I ever decided to string for others since that was considered a top notch machine for many years even though it's a two point mounting system.
If you are buying now, buy 6 mount point which is a new design machine. Consider price point you should buy 6 pt or 4 pt mount. He is trying to scare you about 2 pt machine, like saying "airplane crashes so you should not fly airplane". I tested drop weight 55=50, 70=66,30=29 I already have a Klippermate drop weight since 90's. You have to know "string mechanics" which is taught in university mechanical engineering 300-400 level.
I have a Prince Neos crank and a Babolat Star 5 electric. The Neos is a two point mount but they are wide and I only distorted one racquet. There is a lock underneath that keeps the two points from expanding or shrinking and one time I forget to set that and ruined a racquet. I put multi color tape on it to never forget again. I do not think the Neos has a problem with distorting today's racquets. I am actually faster with the crank because I do not have to wait for the beep. But the swivel clamps on the Babolat are pretty nice. I would recommend the Neos if you need to often transport it. It is rugged. I take it apart in 3 pieces and the crank goes in a case, and in my car. I have a word of warning about the Wise. I used this with my Neos but when I bought the Star 5 I stopped using it stored it away. I was thinking of selling it and hooked it up and kept getting an error code. I sent emails and got no response. Looking at tennis forums it seems a bunch of others had the same problem. Someone mentioned that my error code was because the initial test run took too long. I played around with it, turning it on and off several times and even off in the middle of the test and eventually started working again. I think they should respond to emails.
@Mark, i took your advice and I went ahead and bought the Wise 2086 series 14 in Feb'21 to bolt on my Alpha Pioneer DC tabletop dropweight. It's an awesome combo! I've strung ~10 rackets so far. I avg ~22min and hoping to break 20min with practice.
@@MarkSansait my only minor issue is that i don't have 360 rotation, bec/ of the drop wt adapter that raises the tentioner. My fix (for now) are two long screwdrivers (secured with electrical tape) to each side of the 2086 to prevent the racket handle from hitting the diablo/gripper. It's only for the first 4 throat mains. Otherwise it's all free flowing.
fixed my 360 issue. went to ACE hardware and got 1"x1" round metal bushing, couple of 1-1/4" washers, and 4x 2" bolts. it raised the whole mounting system by 1-1/4" enough to clear the Wise 2086. Very happy now!
I've been using the KlipperMate for a few years now, just doing rackets for my kids and myself. The pros at my club have been impressed (once I stopped making mistakes) with the results. It is slow though - takes me about 70 minutes at a steady pace. Didn't know about the breakage risk though... that might save you thousands of $$$ on medical bills.
I have done over a thousand racquets on a Prince Neos and I guess that is two point. No racquets ever exploded. I did distort one once after forgetting to set the lock. I did that once, only once.
Hey Mark - I know this video is a few years old now, which crank machines would you consider buying today in 2024? Ive been considering Alpha, Gamma or Tourna - is there one of those that stand out to you? Or perhaps 1 from a brand I didnt mention?
Per Wikipedia: Gravity decreases with altitude as one rises above the Earth's surface because greater altitude means greater distance from the Earth's center. All other things being equal, an increase in altitude from sea level to 9,000 metres (30,000 ft) causes a weight decrease of about 0.29% Even between Malibu and Mt Everest, that's less than half a pound of tension difference at 60 lbs, which I would claim is insignificant. The levelness of where you live also shouldn't be counted against drop weight tensioners. Regardless of the slope of the property, good builders build a home level with respect to gravity. You can hang a plumb bob to check whether your stringer is sitting perpendicular to the force of gravity if you have any doubts about the levelness of your home. On the pro-side of the argument for drop weight tensioners, you don't give them credit for the same constant-pull benefit that you list for electric tensioners. I would highlight setting the arm to exactly horizontal as the biggest source of drop weight tensioning error. A 5-degree error is about a 9% tension reduction. Even a 2-degree error is a 3.5% reduction, which is a couple of pounds at 60 lbs. Your criticism of it being the slowest method also seems valid. The absence of comments about clamps implies that you think they're all about the same. Is this true? Even if it's true for holding power while not damaging the strings, certainly some must lead to quicker stringing than others, right? Which do you think are best? What about a starting clamp? Do I need one? If yes, is there one that's better than the others? All that said, you raise a lot of interesting points for someone just starting to research stringing machines. Thanks for your thoughts.
I’ve heard that a 2 point mount is better because it allows the racquet to move whereas the 6 point holds the racquet so rigid that it has to break, rather than shift.
I think I commented about this on another one of your videos. I had a Progression ST II with the crank and was planning to upgrade to the ELS model. Instead, I bought the Wise 2086, saving about $700 in the process, so now have the exact same setup as in this video. I've been using it now for about a month and have strung about 20 racquets with it. It was life-changing over the crank machine!! It is perfectly calibrated and works great. I'm very happy with it and even happier saving the dough. One thing to point out to you that you may not have noticed. The bolts that hold the Gamma adaptor plate to the main rail have a tendency to loosen up after a few string jobs, probably from the pulling torque and vibration of the tension head moving back and forth. I recommend putting a little BLUE Loctite (242) (NOT RED!) on those bolts and tighten them back up. Problem solved.
I know this video is old, but I wanted to note that there is another type of tension head that is less common: pneumatic. I have a Prince MP100 that is old, and is a 2-point mounting system, but it was almost free (
I think you're exaggerating the breaking of frame aspect on a 2 pt mounting system. I think it's a rare occurrence and only happens if the racquet is in very bad shape. The local pro at our club prefers a 2 pt machine and he strings many racquets all year long. He says the 6 pt mounts frequently get in the way and slow him down.
Isn't a drop weight more accurate than a crank? Drop weight relies on a constant - gravity, whereas crank relies on a spring that can lose tension over time. Additionally, you get constant pull with the drop weight vs a lock out on the crank.
Technically yes, but it has to settle PERFECTLY level when the racket angle is "natural" after the tension is pulled, and that takes significantly longer than the electric tensioner and crank. That is true about the crank though, but I dont know long it takes to depreciate the tension accuracy.
Josh i absolutely agree. Drop weights may suck because it takes more time and IT takes quite a while until Drop weight stays in the destination zone from the first time, so practice is key here. it is more accurate than a lockout because of its constant pull. But there are some workarounds where you can simulate constant pull on a crank. So if you can afford it, a crank or Electronic is far more comfortable and faster than a dw ;)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Mark. Please make a video on DO and Don’t. I have crank machine and been use monthly for years. I want to learn how to become a better stringer. Thanks again Mark
Hi Mark, I tuned in to hear about string machines and within the first few words recognized your voice from your appearances on Ian's channel. What a nice surprise. Thanks for the tip on the machine.
Hello Mark Do you need to buy a mounting plate adapter to install the Wise 2086 on the gamma progression II? Is it expensive to replace parts or service the Wise tension head? Thanks for making these vids and tutorials.
Any experience with the Prince NEOS 1000 stringer? There is one nearby at $900 which includes all accessories as well. I’ve strung on a Gamma with electronic tensioning back when I worked at Dick’s sporting goods, but that’s my only experience stringing. Took me ~30 min a racquet.
The real problem of two mount point machine is the racquet can move laterally when you string cross, that might be what he refered as it can break racquet. In reality, not that bad. (think of "force on only one side of point contact"). I wouldn't say drop weight 2 pt mount machine is good. That is what I have. If I buy today that would be hand crank 4 or 6 pt mount machine, due to the cost benefit.
For the occasional stringer (even twice a month), the EasyStringer is an option which I recently bought. Takes no space, pretty easy to use, and probably more accurate than drop-weight and crank machines.
@@ceejay257 Takes me about 35 minutes, but I take breaks. You could do one in 20-25 mins. The 2 point vs 6 point argument is sort of silly. I haven't seen any significant bending due to 2 point. Also with stringing machines like the Easystringer or Prostringer, they rest against the racquet frame during the pull, thereby not stressing the entire frame.
I am not sure if this is a little late 2 years after the release, but... ...aren't the clamps essential as well? I strung with my stone age drop weight machine, and I can assure you that floating clamps suck. Or do all machines come with mounted clamps anyway these days?
Yes a video on stringing tips would be great! I just got a klippermate as a starting machine and thinks it’s pretty good for now. Of course I only string my own rackets though.
I just got a Klippermate as well. I'm pretty happy with it so far. I was not interested in spending enough to get fixed clamps, which would be the main advantage I would see in upgrading.
@@MarkSansait Unlike the Gamma floating clamps, the Klipper ones are just modified vice grips with metal heads on them. They seem super durable and easy to maintain, but 1. They are still floating clamps and 2. You could probably damage a multifilament or natural gut string with them.
@@stephenw_153 I have a klippermate as well but the original clamps were damaging any technifibre multi-filament string I was using. I upgraded to stringway floating clamps and that seems to have solved that problem.
Hey Mark, just wonder between Gamma Progression II + WISE 2086 tension head and Professional X-Stringer ELS, which one is the better option if you can't find used one?
Hi Mark, great video again! Thanks for that! I’m looking for a machine and found a good option combination with Pro's Pro Hornet + Wise 2086 Stringing. Do you recommend? Is it simple to setup up?
My old Gamma 4000 machine is a 4-point mount! three at the head and one at the throat! Also the Biardo L is amazing I just got it and with Christmas deals it was half the price of the Biardo... its basically the same machine 90% or so of it.
I've got a Klippermate that I've used twice. Two point mount. Living dangerously, I s'pose. Well, I guess I'll wear my welding gear when I restring. I'll bet I can add the electric later? Cheers!
Has anyone actually been able to find a 6 point crank machine for sale around $500? I have been looking on Facebook, Craigslist, etc for over a month and the best I have found is $700 for a gamma progression II, which didn’t include a stand. Any pointers? I live in the Houston area, so you figure there would lots of potential sellers
Should have pulled the trigger - it’s been a few months and I’m still on the market for a stringer. Seems like used inventory is very low now compared to earlier in the summer 😢 Need to start string rackets for myself and my friends, so considering buying a drop weight machine and adding on the wise 2086 down the road
Great vid tnx, I like to know how to weave crosses fast, because it takes a log of my time. I string rackets in about an hour on dropweight, that is 20min slower then you. Another thing I like to improve is how to set the clamps perfectly, I sometimes set it to tight and squeeze the string or worse its to loose and the string slips,. And finally did I understand correctly that you can install an electric tensioner on your already ownded machine? Edit: Holy shit that tennishead tensioner is sold by the store where i bought my machine with an example of my current machine and how to install it. Might do that at some point! Great tip!
Hey Marc,i just bought the siboasi s213,do u now the machine and what are your thoughts comparising it to your machine.Well hoor u keep making video,s of your stringing skills.High from Holland.Gr Jeroen.
We have the same machine already, and just ordered the Wise 2086. I see they also have a special adapter for Gamma machines, that raises the 2086 by a couple inches, and it says that certain Gamma machines require it. Does your Gamma Progression ST II require this special adapter?
I watch your Essential Tennis content. Thanks for the recommendations! Video would be even better if you provided recommendations based on the 3 categories individually and collectively.
I have never used the Gamma Progression ll ELS - but I just did take a look at it... The electric part of it looks.... bulky. I would much rather use the electric head tensioner after buying a crank IMHO.
I didn't have the luxury of RUclips to tell me about stringing machines so I ended up with a klippermate (which is a drop weight system) way back in 2007. I still use it today and it takes me at least 45 minutes to do a racquet. I definitely would have bought something different. But I'm not going to go out of my way to buy a whole new machine because I just don't do enough racquets. Just a question, are drop weight machines constant pull?
Hello Mark, i would really like to have your advice. I have a budget of 2500$ and I would really like to have the best broduct for this price range. I already have something in mind.1st will be the gamma XLT, 2nd will be TENNISMAN STRINGMASTER DELUXE LE,3rd SUPERSTRINGER T80 and 4th it will be something improvised , it will be the gamma 6004 SC , I will be removing the crank system and mount the wise 2086 tension head. What is your opinion? Can you please help me? Thanks
Hi mark, interested in buying a machine and see a 6 point crank in my area that I’m thinking about checking out. Are there any red flags I should specifically be aware of when looking at it? I understand there are plenty of parts and some cost more than others to replace so I just wanted to get your thoughts on this.
New subscriber here - love this channel's direction and content. Question: are you being a little too hard on two point mounting systems? Prince NEOS 1000 have been the gold-standard of lock-out machines for decades. If I am not mistaken, Tennis Warehouse does or did use them to string all their customer frames. Thanks, Mark! I look forward to future videos and I am excited to see where this channel goes.
@@MarkSansait I would prefer to see the hoop "breath" rather than see it crush against one of the extra 4 mountain points. I had a racquet once that started to crush against one. Scared the shit out of me. Never used a 6 point mounting system after that and have never had any issue with 2 point mounting systems.
@@a2casius well said. 6 makes sense as a reactionary thought, but when you consider that the racquet has no room to shift at all, it’s only option is to break.
Hey Mark, loved the video. Been stringing for almost 50 years so I'm and old guy. But when I was in the tennis business (Penn and Prince), I participated in and attended many stringing seminars given by Lucien Nogues who was the men's tour stringer at the time (early 80's). He is now Tennis Director for Babolat. When asked how long it should take to string a racket, he would always reply. "if you're good, about 30 minutes. If you're really good, about 40 minutes." I always kept that in mind and wonder about those who string in 15 minutes. I'm sure you weave and tie-off very quickly, but I worry about tension loss in the first couple of hours. I have had similar discussions with many musicians of stringed instruments about the same issue - how often must I keep tuning to keep the correct tension to maintain the right pitch. As you know, string continues to stretch after you clamp (the biggest complaint about crank machines). If you stall before clamping on a continuous pull machine, the tensioner will continue to pull, thus insuring reduced tension loss after clamping. I still remember Lucien pinging the two middle mains, then the next two, and the next two etc. before starting the crosses (two piece stringing), to test the tension of each pair to make sure that they matched in pitch. He was a perfectionist. I'm interested in your and other's thoughts about the time it takes to string. Thanks.
Your on the money with your comments and that confirms the importance of taking your time. Thank you 🙏
It's called creep in mechanical engineering, I think it also depends on the type of string/material
Drop weights are accurate, electrical needs to be calibrated (lose accuracy)
I would love a full stringing tutorial with an emphasis on knots. I feel like I struggle getting the knot to seat well and then have less confidence in the string job as a whole. Great channel by the way!
Thank you! That should be up sooner than later I hope.
Yep. Full stringing tutorial with the necessary. If possible with the crank!
Never even think of buying 2 point. By the way, Drop weight actually is more accurate than Crank. You never need to calibrate as you use it for many years. For crank type, you need to calibrate. It works on a spring loaded self-locking device. Once you crank to the set tension, the device will lock. The problem is if you calibrate it at 50lbs, it is accurate at 50lbs but if you want any tension higher, then you need to adjust the tensioner to tighter the spring load which is a rough estimate. Lastly Poly string loose tension very fast, by actual right once you pull a poly string at the desire tension, it need to continue pulling the string at the desire tension for few second before you clamp it and only drop weight and electric machine can do that. For crank type there is an alternative to string poly string that is a double pulling method to ensure the poly string don't drop too much tension. Electric machine have 2 types, one is a turning type which is not good (spring load) and the other type linear pulling. A good linear pulling has self-calibrating function everytime you turn on the machine. You may only need to calibrate it once in a very very long time. With all this said, the most important thing of a string job drill down to the consistency of a stringer. If you go to a stringer A with drop weight and string at 50lbs but actual tension is 48lbs. You won't know it if you keep going to the same stringer. If you switch to a stringer B using crank and you string at 50lbs and the result might be 45lbs, you might not like it, but if you ask stringer B to string at 54lbs, it maybe same as stringer A strung at 50lbs. Same goes to the electric type. End of the day, if you are buying for your ownself, I would prefer a drop weight as it is good for poly string vs the crank type. The only issues with drop weight is the drop weight has to be in close to horizontal position everytime you pull the string to be consistent. I know there is a drop weight machine which has a rachet system that you can adjust it so that the drop weight can land horizontal everytime. But I do suggest you buy a good electric stringing machine and it can last you for very long and it is way more fun to string. I am having the Tecnifibre Ergo One which is handmade in France. It cost me about $6000 usd at the time I bought it. I already recover the cost by helping friends and players to string their racket. If you bought a drop weight, its so slow and not user friendly that you might not want to do it commercially. Just some alternative for you guys to consider. If you make $10 per racket and you have 10 rackets to string a week, each month you can make $400 and you can make $4800 in a year. Lest than 2 years you already cover back the cost of the electric machine.
Yes yes yes, more string tutorials, knots, starting knots, hints, tips, weaving tutorials, measuring string, especially from a packet, I hate packets they always turn into bird's nests, give me a reel any day. Great video and I'm gonna think about investing in an electronic tensioner now over my crank. Hope you're well my man and dat hair is looking fly on the side and high, looks good. 😉
Yes yes yes yes yes yes and yes 😉
Mark makes many good points in this video. Some have mentioned the omission of clamp system discussion - fixed vs flying, and the effectiveness of the clamping surfaces and adjustments. You want fixed. There is also a range of racket clamping adjustment flexibility and speed. The Baiardo is not the best setup, it is designed for speed rather than flexibility. The lower end six point setups have a lot of knobs to turn, takes time and can be misadjusted to put unbalanced force on the frame. The higher end clamping systems have a better setup. There is also stiffness of the machine and spring-back which contribute to tension loss. Rotary vs linear tensioners wasn't mentioned either. In researching, buying and using a few machines I found a lot more differences than even the feature lists mention. Lockout tensioners are fast but not as consistent and at some point need calibration and mechanical maintenance. Drop weights are constant pull but accuracy depends on the patience of the stringer, and getting the arm consistently level and they can be mis-calibrated. Rotary tensioners require more string. Linear electronic tensioners have the most features and advantages, and maintaining calibration was an issue early on but technology has led to stable electronics and more accuracy. Pulling each string consistently long enough to relax it and reach accurate tension doesn't happen in a 15 minute string job. Weaving to avoid misweaves, wear and kinks takes a little extra time. Tying better knots takes a moment longer. Avoiding starting knots takes a few seconds more. Prefer quality over speed. Saving a few bucks on a machine might seem to be important in the short term, in the long run it gets amortized across thousands of string jobs and the extra cost doesn't matter but the quality and features may make a difference in the quality of the work, and in the health of the stringer due to ergonomics. Find a good used machine if you want to save. They sell fast so you have to be prepared. Move up when you understand better what is important to your process. Enjoy.
Helpful. Thanks! Strung several hundred rackets on a 6 point crank machine at a pro shop in the 80s and about 50 on a two point drop weight stringer at home. Took me about 20 minutes with the crank and at least 45 minutes with the drop weight…really do need to take your time and use caution with a two point. I remember once trying to string my wooden Bancroft Borg racket at 65 #s on two point machine and almost immediately had to back the tension off to 62 pounds, fearing the racket would brake in that machine at the higher tension. It was pretty dicey even at 62 and I think I didn’t string higher than 58 pounds with that stringer after that. Years later, I’m getting back into tennis and looking for a stringer. It’s just so convenient to string your own and you can try different set ups without spending so much.
I agree 100 percent your comments ! You tell it exactly as it is. I hope it helps beginner stringers and they listen to you. I have been stringing for over 50 years and just purchased what you show in your video. I bought the red gamma machine and the 2086 head and couldn't be happier. I did not need a Wilson Baiardo or higher priced electronic machine with all kinds of bells and whistles. I have also strung on pretty much all of the machines and brands over the years. I agree that one should set a budget and get good mount, clamps, tensioner and then be sure to clean clamps and do periodic maintenance. Ultimately, its practice and good technique! Thanks for a great video. Jerry
I'd like to see you do a stringing tutorial
thats what i asked on instagram yesterday
👉🤞👈
A full tutorial would be nice!
Professional stringer here and our company recently purchased the Gamma Progression II ILS machine. After about 50 stringings, I'd recommend it highly. Very easy and top quality.
Great advice Mark! I have a 6 point Gamma with a drop weight.. will probably upgrade it to electric tensioner in future. I personally dont mind the time spent in stringing the racket on drop weight as it's quite fun and relaxing to do for now.
:)
Great video, Mark! One thing I would like to add is that all drop weights ARE NOT created equal (most but not all). I've had my Stringway ML100 with T92 clamps for almost 20 years and it's incredible. Unlike almost all other drop weight machines, the lever arm on mine does not have to be perfectly level to be at the correct tension. Insert the string, drop the arm and bam...it's at the desired tension. Of course, by design it's a constant pull tensioner also.
The mounting system is awesome as well. 5 points off contact at the top and 4 at the bottom for a total of 9 points of contact supporting the racquet head during stringing.
For about $1,000 one can get a fast, constant pull machine with excellent clamps, a tensioning device that won't break down or need electricity, and the best mounting system of any machine out there (IMO of course) 👍🏻
Whoa, can you email me a pic of the 9 point system!?!
@@MarkSansait Sure. What's your email address?
Its in my "about" tab in my channel
Ya I've got the Stringway ms140 constant pull stringer. Has the same mounting system as yours but uses a spring for tension. Very good stringing machine.
Accidentally came across this video - what a surprise I have the same set up GAMMA X-6FC + Wise 2086 for 10 years. No complains whatsoever.
Yeah a video separately on knots would be great because I feel those are the most important part of stringing a racket
🤓
@@MarkSansait thanks man!!!
That would be nice to see. The videos floating around RUclips are old and not in HD
Yes I agree a video on the knots and how to do tie off the racquet properly.
Knots are the most important part?
Im all for a high quality stringing machine and want to buy one in the future, but my $200 super simple drop weight is VERY reliable, consistent, easy to use, and has been a great investment. once you learn how to use it well, it is just as effective as anything...albeit a little slow
it IS a good investment!
Spot on advice, but I'd actually recommend a drop weight with the Wise added (instead of the crank), to save a bit of money and space. The Gamma version is great, but I slightly preferred the Alpha Pioneer DC (clamps feel a little better to me). Wise drops in with no special mods using the drop weight adapter. Add a Babolat starting clamp and you've got something wonderful. I put mine on an inexpesive Walmart microwave cart, which is the perfect height.
But that has no brakes
Great video, not sure though if crank is really more accurate than dropweight. The dropweight applies constant pull. Many strings stretch quite a lot after reaching the tension, so the final tension using a crank will be quite a lot lower than dropweight or electronic machines.
Exactly my thinking. Historically, gravity has always been pretty consistant. I used to use crank before I got a WISE and I always thought a crank job felt terrible.
Agree here 8:25 - drop weight slower but more accurate than crank due to lack of constant pull of gravity or electronic tension head (thanks for video Mark!)
I started stringing because I felt like I was more string sensitive and less racquet sensitive when it came to tennis, it's therapeutic when you have the time.. You definitely gotta dive in get a bunch of stringing under your belt but you do get better and faster.. get a process that works, try different knots, figure out a few tricks, techniques.. I'm just stringing the 'Yonex' way, always two piece but I'm probably 6-8 minutes slower than you on average still if you're in the 13-15 range, obviously some wacky strings are more challenging (slower) than others to string (full Ultra Cable in a tight pattern I'm looking at you!). Nothing beats trying new strings/hybrid combos and being able to swap em if it sucks. Great video, I like your string review videos and seeing other people's techniques who've been stringing a long azz time, there's always something new to learn or get better at.
Just strung up both my racquets using a 2 decade old klippermate drop weight stringer my buddy gave me for 0$. It does a fantastic job as long as you know how to use it. The most important thing is knowing what you're doing. I've paid for stringing and gotten worse results from professional machines used by amateur stringers. The stringer is the most important part, not the machine.
My high school tennis coach taught me how to string a tennis racket and I used the cheapest of equipment 20 years ago. Now that I am playing tennis again, I hope I still remember how to string a racket.
im planning to buy a new tennis string machine. it hasn't been a year since i started stringing with my drop weight stringing machine and i do feel the same it takes a lot of time and tension is a a hit or a miss. Thank you for this Mark!
:)
I dusted off my old Klippermate a couple years ago when I got back into tennis after a very long layoff. I did upgrade to the stringway floating clamps which are worlds better than the ones the Klippermate came with. Works good for me because I only string my own racquets with good old synthetic gut. I was considering getting a Prince Neos if I ever decided to string for others since that was considered a top notch machine for many years even though it's a two point mounting system.
🙏
I also upgraded to stringway floating clamps. The klippermate clamps were damaging the technifibre multi-filament strings.
If you are buying now, buy 6 mount point which is a new design machine. Consider price point you should buy 6 pt or 4 pt mount. He is trying to scare you about 2 pt machine, like saying "airplane crashes so you should not fly airplane".
I tested drop weight 55=50, 70=66,30=29
I already have a Klippermate drop weight since 90's. You have to know "string mechanics" which is taught in university mechanical engineering 300-400 level.
I'm trying to string 🧵 under 20 lbs. Clipper not helping
Hi
@@ThetennisDr you can hook on a spring of 20 lb on the other end. Some custom work is needed.
I have a Prince Neos crank and a Babolat Star 5 electric. The Neos is a two point mount but they are wide and I only distorted one racquet. There is a lock underneath that keeps the two points from expanding or shrinking and one time I forget to set that and ruined a racquet. I put multi color tape on it to never forget again. I do not think the Neos has a problem with distorting today's racquets. I am actually faster with the crank because I do not have to wait for the beep. But the swivel clamps on the Babolat are pretty nice. I would recommend the Neos if you need to often transport it. It is rugged. I take it apart in 3 pieces and the crank goes in a case, and in my car. I have a word of warning about the Wise. I used this with my Neos but when I bought the Star 5 I stopped using it stored it away. I was thinking of selling it and hooked it up and kept getting an error code. I sent emails and got no response. Looking at tennis forums it seems a bunch of others had the same problem. Someone mentioned that my error code was because the initial test run took too long. I played around with it, turning it on and off several times and even off in the middle of the test and eventually started working again. I think they should respond to emails.
Looking for a machine. Came to the right spot 👏Thanks Mark ☺️
@Mark, i took your advice and I went ahead and bought the Wise 2086 series 14 in Feb'21 to bolt on my Alpha Pioneer DC tabletop dropweight. It's an awesome combo! I've strung ~10 rackets so far. I avg ~22min and hoping to break 20min with practice.
Im glad you made the switch and I'm even gladder you're happy with it!
@@MarkSansait my only minor issue is that i don't have 360 rotation, bec/ of the drop wt adapter that raises the tentioner. My fix (for now) are two long screwdrivers (secured with electrical tape) to each side of the 2086 to prevent the racket handle from hitting the diablo/gripper. It's only for the first 4 throat mains. Otherwise it's all free flowing.
fixed my 360 issue. went to ACE hardware and got 1"x1" round metal bushing, couple of 1-1/4" washers, and 4x 2" bolts. it raised the whole mounting system by 1-1/4" enough to clear the Wise 2086. Very happy now!
I recently purchased a Wise 2086 electronic tensioner. Best decision hands down. It’s mounted on my Gamma 6004 6PT mounted system.
I've been using the KlipperMate for a few years now, just doing rackets for my kids and myself. The pros at my club have been impressed (once I stopped making mistakes) with the results. It is slow though - takes me about 70 minutes at a steady pace. Didn't know about the breakage risk though... that might save you thousands of $$$ on medical bills.
I have done over a thousand racquets on a Prince Neos and I guess that is two point. No racquets ever exploded. I did distort one once after forgetting to set the lock. I did that once, only once.
Hey Mark - I know this video is a few years old now, which crank machines would you consider buying today in 2024? Ive been considering Alpha, Gamma or Tourna - is there one of those that stand out to you? Or perhaps 1 from a brand I didnt mention?
Honestly do a nice drop weight 4 or 6 pointer if you strung under 4 rackets a week since it’s constant pull
Per Wikipedia: Gravity decreases with altitude as one rises above the Earth's surface because greater altitude means greater distance from the Earth's center. All other things being equal, an increase in altitude from sea level to 9,000 metres (30,000 ft) causes a weight decrease of about 0.29%
Even between Malibu and Mt Everest, that's less than half a pound of tension difference at 60 lbs, which I would claim is insignificant.
The levelness of where you live also shouldn't be counted against drop weight tensioners. Regardless of the slope of the property, good builders build a home level with respect to gravity. You can hang a plumb bob to check whether your stringer is sitting perpendicular to the force of gravity if you have any doubts about the levelness of your home.
On the pro-side of the argument for drop weight tensioners, you don't give them credit for the same constant-pull benefit that you list for electric tensioners.
I would highlight setting the arm to exactly horizontal as the biggest source of drop weight tensioning error. A 5-degree error is about a 9% tension reduction. Even a 2-degree error is a 3.5% reduction, which is a couple of pounds at 60 lbs. Your criticism of it being the slowest method also seems valid.
The absence of comments about clamps implies that you think they're all about the same. Is this true? Even if it's true for holding power while not damaging the strings, certainly some must lead to quicker stringing than others, right? Which do you think are best? What about a starting clamp? Do I need one? If yes, is there one that's better than the others?
All that said, you raise a lot of interesting points for someone just starting to research stringing machines. Thanks for your thoughts.
6:58 There is a 4th tensioner. My Prince P-200 uses a compressor. I was able to just buy a mint one for $275.
I’ve heard that a 2 point mount is better because it allows the racquet to move whereas the 6 point holds the racquet so rigid that it has to break, rather than shift.
Isn't allowing the racket to flex past a certain point a bad thing?
love the video. please keep on sharing your experience. really grateful for you job man
I think I commented about this on another one of your videos. I had a Progression ST II with the crank and was planning to upgrade to the ELS model. Instead, I bought the Wise 2086, saving about $700 in the process, so now have the exact same setup as in this video. I've been using it now for about a month and have strung about 20 racquets with it. It was life-changing over the crank machine!! It is perfectly calibrated and works great. I'm very happy with it and even happier saving the dough. One thing to point out to you that you may not have noticed. The bolts that hold the Gamma adaptor plate to the main rail have a tendency to loosen up after a few string jobs, probably from the pulling torque and vibration of the tension head moving back and forth. I recommend putting a little BLUE Loctite (242) (NOT RED!) on those bolts and tighten them back up. Problem solved.
Awesome!
Mine have not loosened up at all :)
@@MarkSansait Cool. Just something to check periodically... but it's a great setup..
I know this video is old, but I wanted to note that there is another type of tension head that is less common: pneumatic. I have a Prince MP100 that is old, and is a 2-point mounting system, but it was almost free (
I think you're exaggerating the breaking of frame aspect on a 2 pt mounting system. I think it's a rare occurrence and only happens if the racquet is in very bad shape. The local pro at our club prefers a 2 pt machine and he strings many racquets all year long. He says the 6 pt mounts frequently get in the way and slow him down.
Isn't a drop weight more accurate than a crank? Drop weight relies on a constant - gravity, whereas crank relies on a spring that can lose tension over time. Additionally, you get constant pull with the drop weight vs a lock out on the crank.
Technically yes, but it has to settle PERFECTLY level when the racket angle is "natural" after the tension is pulled, and that takes significantly longer than the electric tensioner and crank.
That is true about the crank though, but I dont know long it takes to depreciate the tension accuracy.
@@MarkSansait Ahh gotcha! Keep up the great content :)
Josh i absolutely agree. Drop weights may suck because it takes more time and IT takes quite a while until Drop weight stays in the destination zone from the first time, so practice is key here. it is more accurate than a lockout because of its constant pull. But there are some workarounds where you can simulate constant pull on a crank. So if you can afford it, a crank or Electronic is far more comfortable and faster than a dw ;)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Mark. Please make a video on DO and Don’t. I have crank machine and been use monthly for years. I want to learn how to become a better stringer.
Thanks again Mark
More to come :)
Hi Mark, I tuned in to hear about string machines and within the first few words recognized your voice from your appearances on Ian's channel. What a nice surprise. Thanks for the tip on the machine.
I hope I gave you some info and saved you some money :).
Glad you found me!
Awesome Information and insight into chosing a stringing machine. Well done.
HI Mark, have you heard and what do you think of the Pro's Pro stringing machines?
Hello Mark
Do you need to buy a mounting plate adapter to install the Wise 2086 on the gamma progression II?
Is it expensive to replace parts or service the Wise tension head?
Thanks for making these vids and tutorials.
Does it make sense to have a 6 point machine (drop weight or crank) and then purchase a electric tensioner and use them together?
how long did it take for you to get your best at stringing? like how many rackets did it take you to get your best time for stringing?
About 7 years to be honest (from 13-20years old) with about 3000 rackets
@@MarkSansait thanks man
@@MarkSansait also what did you mean when you said you got an electrical machine for less than a thousand bucks?
Yes Mark...full ten part series on how to string. 6 minutes per part. NOT ONE 45 MINUTES VIDEO
Why not 45 videos that are one minute each? And each video has a 34 second intro.
@@MarkSansait fire heat burning
@@MarkSansait I like this idea
Any experience with the Prince NEOS 1000 stringer? There is one nearby at $900 which includes all accessories as well. I’ve strung on a Gamma with electronic tensioning back when I worked at Dick’s sporting goods, but that’s my only experience stringing. Took me ~30 min a racquet.
The real problem of two mount point machine is the racquet can move laterally when you string cross, that might be what he refered as it can break racquet. In reality, not that bad. (think of "force on only one side of point contact"). I wouldn't say drop weight 2 pt mount machine is good. That is what I have. If I buy today that would be hand crank 4 or 6 pt mount machine, due to the cost benefit.
and hell yes to stringing tutorials.
HELL YEAH BROTHA!
Hey @mark, Thanks for this great video. Can you tell me if I can string Badminton Racket with this combo ? I.e Gamma and Wise set up ?
For the occasional stringer (even twice a month), the EasyStringer is an option which I recently bought. Takes no space, pretty easy to use, and probably more accurate than drop-weight and crank machines.
Awesome!
How long did it take you to finish stringing?
Also, I heard that it is two point mounting system. Does the racquet bend?
@@ceejay257 Takes me about 35 minutes, but I take breaks. You could do one in 20-25 mins. The 2 point vs 6 point argument is sort of silly. I haven't seen any significant bending due to 2 point. Also with stringing machines like the Easystringer or Prostringer, they rest against the racquet frame during the pull, thereby not stressing the entire frame.
I can do one in 15
I am not sure if this is a little late 2 years after the release, but...
...aren't the clamps essential as well? I strung with my stone age drop weight machine, and I can assure you that floating clamps suck.
Or do all machines come with mounted clamps anyway these days?
Yes, more stringing tips please! Especially knots....
More to come :)
Your recommendation is the set up I have and does a good job albeit I bought the 6point mounting new.
If you use a drop weight stringing machine with higher quality clamps, would you achieve similar results to the clamp mechanism?
I wouldnt.
Although it would achieve similar results performance-wise, a drop weight would be much more time consuming per racket.
I have an easy stringer, it uses a tension gun but I don’t know which one out of the three tensioning I have?
I have a Tourna CS 300 crank stringer. Do you know if the 2086 would work on that device? It would be nice to have the crank for the backup.
No idea, but I think you can call the manufacturer!
thanks man. super helpful. got the 2 point out of my head!
Yes a video on stringing tips would be great! I just got a klippermate as a starting machine and thinks it’s pretty good for now. Of course I only string my own rackets though.
I just got a Klippermate as well. I'm pretty happy with it so far. I was not interested in spending enough to get fixed clamps, which would be the main advantage I would see in upgrading.
Is it a floating clamp only?
@@MarkSansait yep two floating clamps
@@MarkSansait Unlike the Gamma floating clamps, the Klipper ones are just modified vice grips with metal heads on them. They seem super durable and easy to maintain, but 1. They are still floating clamps and 2. You could probably damage a multifilament or natural gut string with them.
@@stephenw_153 I have a klippermate as well but the original clamps were damaging any technifibre multi-filament string I was using. I upgraded to stringway floating clamps and that seems to have solved that problem.
Hey Mark, just wonder between Gamma Progression II + WISE 2086 tension head and Professional X-Stringer ELS, which one is the better option if you can't find used one?
Is there any way to plug the machine into a battery if you want to string outside can you explain how
Would you recommend a Eagnas 940 Flex tennis stringer machine? Pros and Cons for a newbie to stringing?
Mark I am looking for a more portable stringer machine to string rackets while my kid is at tournaments
Hi Mark, great video again! Thanks for that! I’m looking for a machine and found a good option combination with Pro's Pro Hornet + Wise 2086 Stringing. Do you recommend? Is it simple to setup up?
Hi mark, I'm looking to get into stringing and wondering what is the best stringing machine for a beginner
Hi, did anybody try to put wise 2086 on progression ii 602? if so would it better to than buying x-els / progression ii els ? 🤯
A small line level zip tied on the end of a drop weight stringer arm dramatically improves tension accuracy and repeatability.
Great tip!
My old Gamma 4000 machine is a 4-point mount! three at the head and one at the throat! Also the Biardo L is amazing I just got it and with Christmas deals it was half the price of the Biardo... its basically the same machine 90% or so of it.
Awesome to hear
I've got a Klippermate that I've used twice. Two point mount. Living dangerously, I s'pose. Well, I guess I'll wear my welding gear when I restring. I'll bet I can add the electric later?
Cheers!
Has anyone actually been able to find a 6 point crank machine for sale around $500? I have been looking on Facebook, Craigslist, etc for over a month and the best I have found is $700 for a gamma progression II, which didn’t include a stand. Any pointers? I live in the Houston area, so you figure there would lots of potential sellers
700 for that is still a good deal imo
Should have pulled the trigger - it’s been a few months and I’m still on the market for a stringer. Seems like used inventory is very low now compared to earlier in the summer 😢 Need to start string rackets for myself and my friends, so considering buying a drop weight machine and adding on the wise 2086 down the road
Which machine can do the Sergetti system?
I have a wilson Baiardo machine and its the best machine to string on as stated by Mark. I had it for 10 years now.
💲💲💲
I use Wise tensioner for tennis and badminton and it works really well. I only string for myself and friends.
Ohhhh, badminton!
@@MarkSansait I took up on tennis when playing badminton become impossible due to covid......now i wish i started years ago. Do you play badmin?
I've only played one time in high school gym class, its pretty natural for me though given my tennis background!
Great vid tnx, I like to know how to weave crosses fast, because it takes a log of my time. I string rackets in about an hour on dropweight, that is 20min slower then you.
Another thing I like to improve is how to set the clamps perfectly, I sometimes set it to tight and squeeze the string or worse its to loose and the string slips,.
And finally did I understand correctly that you can install an electric tensioner on your already ownded machine?
Edit: Holy shit that tennishead tensioner is sold by the store where i bought my machine with an example of my current machine and how to install it. Might do that at some point! Great tip!
😉😏
Hey Marc,i just bought the siboasi s213,do u now the machine and what are your thoughts comparising it to your machine.Well hoor u keep making video,s of your stringing skills.High from Holland.Gr Jeroen.
Can you share a link to what exactly your machine is?
The Eagnas machine I've got is a 4 point system 😖😖 can't wait to upgrade it.... 4-point mounting system with glide bar clamps
We have the same machine already, and just ordered the Wise 2086. I see they also have a special adapter for Gamma machines, that raises the 2086 by a couple inches, and it says that certain Gamma machines require it. Does your Gamma Progression ST II require this special adapter?
If anyone else has the same question, the Gamma adapter works to raise the Wise 2086 to be nearly level with the racket.
So which modell is a 6 point stringing machine with crank tensioner that is tabletop version?
I watch your Essential Tennis content. Thanks for the recommendations! Video would be even better if you provided recommendations based on the 3 categories individually and collectively.
Very good quality video Mark!
Thanks Christian!
Great Informative video Mark. Really considering getting my own stringing machine. This helps tremendously.
Glad I can halp!
Great tip on the surge protector if you leave it plugged in during a hurricane. $6 vs $650
I tried to look in the comments, but couldn't find it. What is the best table top crank machine in your opinion?
I've seen a 20 sided mounting system like Dungeons and Dragons dice
Does it pass the Charisma check?
Great video quality and information!
Have you heard of stringway string machines?,i am thinking of getting that for my first machine, is it a constant pull.
This video completely ignores the Stringway machines and design and hence makes lots of uninformed comments.
Thank you for the feedback! I will check out stringway machines!
@@MarkSansait Much appreciated. Look forward to your future review.
What are your thoughts on Eagnas Flex 940? Thank you for this informative video.
Please do a knot vid. And tension for the last strings. I feel like I’m losing tension even with Parnell knots I must not be doing it right.
Will do!
As a HS student would you recommend me buying a stringing machine?
If you plan on playing tennis your entire life on a frequent basis, yes
Thank you this was super helpful!
What are your thoughts on the Gamma Progression ll ELS electric stringing machine? Please keep the advice coming!
I have never used the Gamma Progression ll ELS - but I just did take a look at it...
The electric part of it looks.... bulky. I would much rather use the electric head tensioner after buying a crank IMHO.
I didn't have the luxury of RUclips to tell me about stringing machines so I ended up with a klippermate (which is a drop weight system) way back in 2007. I still use it today and it takes me at least 45 minutes to do a racquet. I definitely would have bought something different. But I'm not going to go out of my way to buy a whole new machine because I just don't do enough racquets. Just a question, are drop weight machines constant pull?
Yes, all drop weight machines are constant pull.
Facts
Hello Mark, i would really like to have your advice. I have a budget of 2500$ and I would really like to have the best broduct for this price range. I already have something in mind.1st will be the gamma XLT, 2nd will be TENNISMAN STRINGMASTER DELUXE LE,3rd SUPERSTRINGER T80 and 4th it will be something improvised , it will be the gamma 6004 SC , I will be removing the crank system and mount the wise 2086 tension head. What is your opinion? Can you please help me? Thanks
It might sound expensive, but try the gamma-6004 machine along with the tensionhead. You'll have a nice little machine by then!
Awesome video you shared a lot of valuable knowledge.
Hey Mark, the way you speak to the camera is very well-versed. Did you practice on "public speaking" or was it natural to you?
also would love to see you string a racquet in real time in 15 minutes. not saying its impossible, but id like to see it myself :P
I find 15 minutes highly questionable.
@@legendkilla61 agreed...you would have to be rushing. id say 30 minutes is more than fair for a QUALITY string job
Is that a challenge? I can make that happen :)
@@MarkSansait Show me that I'm wrong bud.
Will do! I just need to find some free time!
Thank you this was a huge help!!
Hi mark, interested in buying a machine and see a 6 point crank in my area that I’m thinking about checking out. Are there any red flags I should specifically be aware of when looking at it? I understand there are plenty of parts and some cost more than others to replace so I just wanted to get your thoughts on this.
New subscriber here - love this channel's direction and content. Question: are you being a little too hard on two point mounting systems? Prince NEOS 1000 have been the gold-standard of lock-out machines for decades. If I am not mistaken, Tennis Warehouse does or did use them to string all their customer frames. Thanks, Mark! I look forward to future videos and I am excited to see where this channel goes.
Honestly I just hate how I see the racket frame literally bend on a 2 point mounting system when I pull tension
@@MarkSansait I would prefer to see the hoop "breath" rather than see it crush against one of the extra 4 mountain points. I had a racquet once that started to crush against one. Scared the shit out of me. Never used a 6 point mounting system after that and have never had any issue with 2 point mounting systems.
@@a2casius well said. 6 makes sense as a reactionary thought, but when you consider that the racquet has no room to shift at all, it’s only option is to break.
Yeah could you do a video on how to string?
More videos on the technicalities of stringing please!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻