I just found the Perkins Brothers' channel late in 2020. Even their earlier videos are excellent, but it's amazing to see how much more skilled they've become putting them together since. This video made me sad...to see all his fingers intact. Such a tragedy, but inspiring to see him after the accident being totally his buoyant, upbeat self. No self pity, and as skilled and productive as ever!
Very nice job young man, your trim work is top notch, I'm a old carpenter of 45+ yrs and do mine the same way, anytime you can pre-assemble and finish in the shop it turns out better, keep up the good work. thanks for posting 👍👍
Here’s another tip…when ripping the window frame boards, first put the bevel angle of the table saw blade at 10 degrees prior to cutting. This will allow the window frame you’re assembling to sit against the window unencumbered by caulk, foam and other debris.
I've been watching This Old House for many, many years. I'm not in the trades but I have learned lots of useful tips for work around the house. Thanks for giving them credit.
Looks really nice. Try hooking up the vacuum attachment to the Kreg Jig so the saw dust stays out of the way. It’s helps when your doing a bunch of holes like that.
I pre-fabricated my trim since 1978, before a Kreg jig was ever thought of. We used a variety of methods, including corrugated nails, staple guns, and gussets (pin nailed to the back side) to get them to the job. Pre-fab is not new, just the jig. We also pre-fab walls with siding, trim, windows, porches, and soffits already finished, and use wall jacks to stand up the walls. Ready for the painter.
I just am completing a trim job on a remodel of a house that was built somewhat in stages over the years. The jamb widths were not at all consistent ranging from 4 9/16 to 8 7/8 (where another 2x4 wall was built next to another to add strength for a staircase addition during construction). As the job called for MDF trim I decided to use 3/4" MDF sheets and ripped them to width with an Accucut setup, as the sheets are heavy, I had made a similar table setup, and I was working alone and found it easier. Also because the rough openings were not always very level or square I used the windows themselves which were newly installed and level and plumb as my base measurements leaving a 3/4" reveal all round on the window itself. I set shims on the sill to level them to the window at the right height. I set up shop in the garage of the home which was away from all the activity going on in like painting and such keeping the MDF dust out of the main work area. I Kregged the jamb boxes together instead of pin nailing because MDF is so soft and moving the larger ones alone would have been a disaster and screwing them together made them much stronger. If an opening had obvious problems such as proud drywall or out of plane to the wall I took the parts and scribed them before assembly. At this point I have to say that while using no reveal might be a rookie move I am a pro with years of experience and am bored with 1/4" reveal I, along with going over it with the owner (an experienced contractor) and making a sample up, found that no reveal can be accomplished quite easily with this method. If there was any discrepancy it was simple to sand it out and add the 1/16" round over after doing so. I also ran the side casings so that there is a vertical butt joint at the head and sill instead of what you did. This makes the joint more visible due to the round overs but in effect it adds some style I feel and the owner liked it. What I liked was that there are no end grains visible, not that MDF has grain..., but it created a nice clean look overall. There were 8 pass through openings and I followed the same procedure for them albeit without sills of course and casing both sides. They were not as strong so I assembled them on the floor close by the openings. On the pre-jambed doors I did the same thing but had to use reveal on the hinge sides. So rookie move maybe to flush the casing to the jamb but the painter commented on how easy it made it for him overall while achieving a look that is not the norm and fit the overall style the contractor wanted to achieve.
Nice job! Been doing construction for 40 years. Just started doing prefab trims myself. Picked up a couple of pointers from you as well. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome job once again y'all! We use the heck out of the kreg jigs also. The only differences from what I can tell is we do a slight bevel on our jambs up against the Windows. We use this detail on any of our own built jambs or colums up against walls. That bevel makes all the difference if something isn't quite perfect and also makes shaving a bit of material off if needed a lot easier. On larger windows and doors, we screw and plug as well, and we always cut returns on our more visible exposed end grains like those there at the header so they aren't.....well.... Exposed. Lol. This is also alot more time consuming. Especially on these homes with window walls and 42 doors and whatnot. Y'all have a nice looking build going on there though. I have always preferred "mountain" style custom builds. Thanks for the content! Take care 🍻
@@tombiby5892 absolutely on point! And the grain of the face doesn't coincide with the ends just cut off. There's something real satisfying about returns. The same grain patterns, and colors. It's just perfect consistency. Real important when we are using rustic or exotic woods with a lot of character. We even do returns when we use shoe moulding. And any cabinetry or cieling trims that just stop. Take care 👍
Very good,, The top of the window jamb is technically called the (head) and the bottom is called the (sill) & of course the left side and right side jambs. I am a retired carpenter of 40 years. I really like this young man. Nice job!!
Hey guys, looks like the trim came out nicely. I have been preassembling my trim on a table for a few years now. One thing I would recommend is also gluing the joints of the extension jamb. The trim nails don’t help much for wood shrinkage, and keeping the joints tight. But overall your installation looks clean and tight. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for this video. Fabulous work and really well explained. We are building our own tiny house at the moment so your video has been very informative.
Your work always amazes me. Not just the quality of the result and the amazing places you work but also because you always seem so chilled out . Great to watch and truly admirable. Cheers
Great minds think alike-I build trim like this in 1987 for my grandma’s basement. But I built the boxes out of 3/4 plywood because they were about 14” deep. Could only fit 3 boxes at a time in my 1978 Corolla…😳. Wish I had pics of the finished work but there were no digital cameras back then..
Awesome joint! Holy smokes. Great trick I’m gonna add this to my arsenal. When Ive run into that I’ll check out some traditional Japanese joints and if I don’t think I can’t chisel it out I’ll go the lazy way and toenail
I love them too I have almost fifty years of experience and they make me feel good about my career choice it came to a sudden forced end because of medical problems that hit me suddenly these guys keep my head fresh and in the game.
Great tutorial. Getting ready to start a huge interior tim job on a log home and was wanting to prefab trim pieces as much as possible. Using my Kreg jig is a perfect idea!! Thanks! BTW, we do a lot staining and keep a five gallon bucket half full of water to soak the stain rags in before throwing them away.
I rip my jams with a 3 degree bevel. Makes a tighter joint against the window and I also screw my jams together. Moving them around just pinned the joints will loosen up.
Been watching for a while I’m a A young general contractor, and I hope to do my own trimwork someday. I have started to do more custom stuff. So seeing all of this has been really helpful. Also this was by far your most detailed video, but it wasn’t overly detailed it was just the right amount information gone through fast.
I'm a complete novice. I trimmed my first window tonight and used the technique described here. It turned out fantastic! Thanks Perkins Builder Brothers!
I always make my liners the same size as my windows not the rough opening, for two reasons. Firstly, the inside corners will line up with the weld on a vinyl window and secondly if you have access to the window order sheet then you don't have to measure a thing, just use manufacturers list. I enjoy all your videos and think you've got some of the best content on RUclips in your space. Well done!
airtightindustries I like to leave my shims out to the inside edge of the studs too, then when you slip your Frame into the opening that is the same size as the window there’s no shimming needed. Nail it in and your done
I been doing trim for 50+ yrs and I started doing such 13 yrs ago and I agree with you as to which gives a better quality work though, improvement (s) r to pre-stain/paint end grain prior to gluing and screwing.
Solid video guys. Well done. If I may, the only thing I can think of to add is that if the frames were being made for the exterior of a home, then it is important to seal all 6 sides of the frame. I started as a painter and learned early on that sealing all sides makes for a finish that lasts MUCH longer and also can be refinished much easier.
That craftsman style is a nice look. I also slightly bevel the window side of the jamb. 3/5°. Also it's a nicer look to vary the thickness. Use 3/4 for head and foot, and 1/2× for the legs. Or, 5/4 and 3/4.
You make replacing the window trim look very doable. My husband and I are looking to change out the wood in our house from oak to alder and I came across your video. I have a couple of questions, when you nail the finished window in place how do you space the nails and what size nails do you use, and in what order do you do this? The second question I have is regarding the large square and triangular windows in the A Frame area of the house; do you miter those corners or square them off?
Many years ago I used a similar method to put face trim on an octagon window in my living room. I glued and pinned the eight pieces on the floor, forming an octagon ring about 4 ft across. The window was about 16 ft up and the tricky part was where to place the ladder (yeah, no scaffolding!) to access all of it for nailing. The solution? Turn the trim ring upside down and place the ladder in the middle of it leaning against the middle of the window. Then picking up the trim I carefully climbed the ladder. It fit perfectly and finished a job I had put off for months.
I use a 18 ga crown stapler to assemble my jambs. Then I install the jambs and shim it to the framing so the reveal looks good on the window and then put my casing on. The only issue if they aren't shimmed would be if they installed blinds and had long screws that grabbed framing. Your way is a lot more efficient and easier though. Nice work!
11:58 Very important piece of info. My dad told me a story of leaving a rag with stain on it in a plastic bag on the dryer after doing some project. Noticed it smoking, grabbed it and tossed it in the outdoor fire pit just as it burst into flames. Spontaneous combustion is no joke. Lay them out flat on concrete or some other non-flammable surface so the heat can dissipate as it dries and not build up enough heat to reach combustion temperatures.
You should invest in the pocket machine for your shop. That way you can have the pieces laying down instead of standing up. I think it will make it easier and help speed up the production. Nice job. (1) question though aren't you supposed to cut the top & bottom to the inside the side pieces?? That's the way I was taught. When worked for a Window/Door manufacturer.. If you did I apologize it look like you nailed the top/bottom jamb pieces to the top/bottom of the side pieces.. Nice work looked really nice..
What are the advantages of preassembling? Seems it would be much easier to measure and cut piece by piece and then fasten and fill gaps and cracks. Asking as someone who is about to case 14 windows in their old house.
So I've watched the tour of your shop, love it. But I'm noticing some custom built drying racks in the background? Any chance you could talk about that? maybe some custom woodworking tips? Best ways to buy bulk rough cut lumber and how to dry them etc, maybe moisture meters ? Keep it up guys love the channel!
Very useful video. Just started finish work about a year ago and sometimes we pre build the jams and trim and sometimes we do them in place. But you guys don't use glue at all?
@@dekonfrost7 By "pull the tape", do you mean holding the very end against the fence and pulling so the tape would end up on the "long" end of the slack in the rivets?
Hello fellow content maker! Thanks for explaining every step! I'll be doing this at a cabin I'm building and documenting on my channel this summer. Subscribed! Looking forward to watching more helpful videos!
DUDE THE NEW 21GA BLOWS THE 18GA AWAY! THE 21GA IS A BASICALLY A HAIR THICKER 23 WITH A HEAD HALF THE SIZE HOLES OF THE 18GA! PAINTERS LOVE THE NEW 21GA!
Ive always thought you had to either shim or shoot the gaps around the sill/trim w foam? Is that not included here? Guessing you shot the rough opening/window with foam. No shimming is pretty wild.
How i do it too, except instead of the end grain showing on your header piece on stain grade (absorbs stain much more than face) i usually just do a miter return towards the wall and glue and 23ga pin it so the stain then matches the face
If you haven't used the 21 gauge yet you don't know what you're missing I don't use the 18 anymore and rarely use the 23 and now use the 21 for almost everything
I agree. I have been doing this for years. I have a double kitchen window with framing between the windows and was able to make a complete one piece for the entire thing. Not one nail hole to fill. I hate to see nail holes!
Isn't your screw only grabbing just under 3/4" of wood then? You're going into the narrow dimension of the 1x4 unless I'm not seeing what you mean correctly.
@@tombiby5892 yeah maybe with thicker stock but with 1x4 being actually just 3/4" thick, then with the 1/4" reveal you're leaving yourself just 1/2" to hit the pocket screw into coming in at the wrong angle, unless i'm totally missing something.
You would only have 1/2" of casing to hit and would run a huge chance of breaking through. If your jamb stock was say 4/4 or 5/4 you might be able to pull it off but it would require a larger RO, window flanges, and stacks of shims.
Love it bro looks mean. Here in new Zealand all our windows come pre Installed with the jambs and heads on them and we throw the architraves up after the windows in
Thanks bro... Some of the wood windows we buy have the jams already installed from the factory as well. I actually like it when they don’t because sometimes if the jams don’t come out flush with the drywall it’s very hard to deal with on a wood trim finish (no caulk to hide anything). Thanks for the comment and cheers from North Carolina
I have 2 brands of pocket hole fixtures the kreg drilles angle holes and a porter cable that first routes the slot then you drill the screw hole Parallel from the back of the fixture.. on a kreg it is best to have a long bar clamp or the new kreg clamp that indexes in one of the screw slots to get good tight joints IF the pieces are not tight with a kreg the angled screw will move your surfaces out of plane.
This only works if the windows were installed with an even gap between the window frame, and the rough opening, all the way around. No one ever mentions the equally important reveal from the trim’s jamb to the window’s framework edge. In my experience, not every rough opening is framed that perfect, nor does every window sit in that rough opening perfectly gapped. This is an often overlooked detail.
Keelo when I install windows I always set the jamb depth by tape measure, I set the window with the wall. It’ll be plumb side to side but front to back is with the wall, I have always felt if it’s level but doesn’t looks like it then it’s better to put it out of level and make it look right
Not necessarily so…I’ve been building window trim like this since 1988. I also take a depth measurement at each corner-in the event it’s not the same all the way around, I’ll rip my 1-by as needed to fit any opening. Still WAY better than stick building the trim.
Hello from Tuesday, December 12, 2023. 912k subs. LETS GO 1 million!!! These vids are always worth rewatching.
Hello from Monday, February 26th, 2024. 946K subs. Only 54k more to go to 1 million!
I just found the Perkins Brothers' channel late in 2020. Even their earlier videos are excellent, but it's amazing to see how much more skilled they've become putting them together since. This video made me sad...to see all his fingers intact. Such a tragedy, but inspiring to see him after the accident being totally his buoyant, upbeat self. No self pity, and as skilled and productive as ever!
I felt exactly the same, I've just found them this weekend.
He's unbelievable with the prosthetic fingers! such an inspiration
Tom Silva has influenced a whole generation of fine home builders. Even electricians have learned valuable lessons from Tom and TOH. Great video!!!
I agree, to bad the newer episodes try to dumb down a lot of the skills they used to share.
Gave Tom Silva his props.
These are the reasons I love watching this channel 👍🏽
Very nice job young man, your trim work is top notch, I'm a old carpenter of 45+ yrs and do mine the same way, anytime you can pre-assemble and finish in the shop it turns out better, keep up the good work. thanks for posting 👍👍
Here’s another tip…when ripping the window frame boards, first put the bevel angle of the table saw blade at 10 degrees prior to cutting. This will allow the window frame you’re assembling to sit against the window unencumbered by caulk, foam and other debris.
I've been watching This Old House for many, many years. I'm not in the trades but I have learned lots of useful tips for work around the house. Thanks for giving them credit.
Tom Silva. You did it right. I love your 3 4 5 method....
Looks really nice. Try hooking up the vacuum attachment to the Kreg Jig so the saw dust stays out of the way. It’s helps when your doing a bunch of holes like that.
I pre-fabricated my trim since 1978, before a Kreg jig was ever thought of. We used a variety of methods, including corrugated nails, staple guns, and gussets (pin nailed to the back side) to get them to the job. Pre-fab is not new, just the jig. We also pre-fab walls with siding, trim, windows, porches, and soffits already finished, and use wall jacks to stand up the walls. Ready for the painter.
1st gear for a half hour. You. Work is nice, love your talent and God bless you both
This was the most helpful trim video I've found! I've done four windows exactly as you described, and they have all turned out great!
Hey Jamie. Watched the house building series bfor I found this, so sorry about yor accident. It didn't slow u down a bit! Stay healthy.
I just am completing a trim job on a remodel of a house that was built somewhat in stages over the years. The jamb widths were not at all consistent ranging from 4 9/16 to 8 7/8 (where another 2x4 wall was built next to another to add strength for a staircase addition during construction). As the job called for MDF trim I decided to use 3/4" MDF sheets and ripped them to width with an Accucut setup, as the sheets are heavy, I had made a similar table setup, and I was working alone and found it easier. Also because the rough openings were not always very level or square I used the windows themselves which were newly installed and level and plumb as my base measurements leaving a 3/4" reveal all round on the window itself. I set shims on the sill to level them to the window at the right height. I set up shop in the garage of the home which was away from all the activity going on in like painting and such keeping the MDF dust out of the main work area. I Kregged the jamb boxes together instead of pin nailing because MDF is so soft and moving the larger ones alone would have been a disaster and screwing them together made them much stronger. If an opening had obvious problems such as proud drywall or out of plane to the wall I took the parts and scribed them before assembly. At this point I have to say that while using no reveal might be a rookie move I am a pro with years of experience and am bored with 1/4" reveal I, along with going over it with the owner (an experienced contractor) and making a sample up, found that no reveal can be accomplished quite easily with this method. If there was any discrepancy it was simple to sand it out and add the 1/16" round over after doing so. I also ran the side casings so that there is a vertical butt joint at the head and sill instead of what you did. This makes the joint more visible due to the round overs but in effect it adds some style I feel and the owner liked it. What I liked was that there are no end grains visible, not that MDF has grain..., but it created a nice clean look overall. There were 8 pass through openings and I followed the same procedure for them albeit without sills of course and casing both sides. They were not as strong so I assembled them on the floor close by the openings. On the pre-jambed doors I did the same thing but had to use reveal on the hinge sides. So rookie move maybe to flush the casing to the jamb but the painter commented on how easy it made it for him overall while achieving a look that is not the norm and fit the overall style the contractor wanted to achieve.
Nice job! Been doing construction for 40 years. Just started doing prefab trims myself. Picked up a couple of pointers from you as well. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome job once again y'all!
We use the heck out of the kreg jigs also. The only differences from what I can tell is we do a slight bevel on our jambs up against the Windows. We use this detail on any of our own built jambs or colums up against walls. That bevel makes all the difference if something isn't quite perfect and also makes shaving a bit of material off if needed a lot easier. On larger windows and doors, we screw and plug as well, and we always cut returns on our more visible exposed end grains like those there at the header so they aren't.....well.... Exposed. Lol.
This is also alot more time consuming. Especially on these homes with window walls and 42 doors and whatnot. Y'all have a nice looking build going on there though. I have always preferred "mountain" style custom builds.
Thanks for the content! Take care 🍻
good idea doing returns on the end of the boards. That stained end grain is much darker than the face.
@@tombiby5892 absolutely on point! And the grain of the face doesn't coincide with the ends just cut off. There's something real satisfying about returns. The same grain patterns, and colors. It's just perfect consistency. Real important when we are using rustic or exotic woods with a lot of character. We even do returns when we use shoe moulding. And any cabinetry or cieling trims that just stop.
Take care 👍
Very good,, The top of the window jamb is technically called the (head) and the bottom is called the (sill) & of course the left side and right side jambs. I am a retired carpenter of 40 years. I really like this young man. Nice job!!
Hey guys, looks like the trim came out nicely. I have been preassembling my trim on a table for a few years now. One thing I would recommend is also gluing the joints of the extension jamb. The trim nails don’t help much for wood shrinkage, and keeping the joints tight. But overall your installation looks clean and tight. Keep up the good work.
I use a brad nailer to position the extension jamb. Then screws. Boom.
Nice little time saver. Way more control over finishes. I like it.
Thanks so much for this video. Fabulous work and really well explained. We are building our own tiny house at the moment so your video has been very informative.
Jamie, your edging Norm Abram / Tom Silva skill level ! good job
haha... ill make sure he see's this commment
Your work always amazes me. Not just the quality of the result and the amazing places you work but also because you always seem so chilled out . Great to watch and truly admirable. Cheers
Cheers 🍻. Thanks
Great minds think alike-I build trim like this in 1987 for my grandma’s basement. But I built the boxes out of 3/4 plywood because they were about 14” deep. Could only fit 3 boxes at a time in my 1978 Corolla…😳. Wish I had pics of the finished work but there were no digital cameras back then..
Awesome joint! Holy smokes. Great trick I’m gonna add this to my arsenal. When Ive run into that I’ll check out some traditional Japanese joints and if I don’t think I can’t chisel it out I’ll go the lazy way and toenail
I just love these brothers THANK YOU.
I love them too I have almost fifty years of experience and they make me feel good about my career choice it came to a sudden forced end because of medical problems that hit me suddenly these guys keep my head fresh and in the game.
Great tutorial. Getting ready to start a huge interior
tim job on a log home and was wanting to prefab trim pieces as much as possible. Using my Kreg jig is a perfect idea!! Thanks! BTW, we do a lot staining and keep a five gallon bucket half full of water to soak the stain rags in before throwing them away.
I feel for you, log homes are a PITA due to the settling that occurs.
I love the shout out to Tom Silva. Keep up the great work.
I rip my jams with a 3 degree bevel. Makes a tighter joint against the window and I also screw my jams together. Moving them around just pinned the joints will loosen up.
shane brown yup! I agree
I second that emotion
Been watching for a while I’m a A young general contractor, and I hope to do my own trimwork someday. I have started to do more custom stuff. So seeing all of this has been really helpful. Also this was by far your most detailed video, but it wasn’t overly detailed it was just the right amount information gone through fast.
Great information! And, you sealed the planks well. However, once you cut the wood, these area are now UNSEALED!
I'm a complete novice. I trimmed my first window tonight and used the technique described here. It turned out fantastic!
Thanks Perkins Builder Brothers!
Very educational. And the narration was great!
I always make my liners the same size as my windows not the rough opening, for two reasons. Firstly, the inside corners will line up with the weld on a vinyl window and secondly if you have access to the window order sheet then you don't have to measure a thing, just use manufacturers list. I enjoy all your videos and think you've got some of the best content on RUclips in your space. Well done!
airtightindustries I like to leave my shims out to the inside edge of the studs too, then when you slip your Frame into the opening that is the same size as the window there’s no shimming needed. Nail it in and your done
Thanks for giving credit to Tom Sylvia. He is truly a master in construction. I have learned so much from watching him.
Good video guys! Doesn't look to hard and I'm sure it's a time saver.
Height & sheathing, thank you Jamie. It was strange watching an older video before the accident.
I been doing trim for 50+ yrs and I started doing such 13 yrs ago and I agree with you as to which gives a better quality work though, improvement (s) r to pre-stain/paint end grain prior to gluing and screwing.
Mind blown on the frame jig. lol
Knock the fuzzies off the difference in a carpenter and a master carpenter, eye for small details separates the men from the boys.
I like sealing the ends after the cut and sanding.
@@allenantonioheyllatorre5720 what do you seal with?
This is a five star video! You guys are top notch! Much respect to you guys.
Solid video guys. Well done.
If I may, the only thing I can think of to add is that if the frames were being made for the exterior of a home, then it is important to seal all 6 sides of the frame. I started as a painter and learned early on that sealing all sides makes for a finish that lasts MUCH longer and also can be refinished much easier.
N.
St Michael and st tekla church Brampton Ontario
That place is gorgeous. Way to nail it guys
That craftsman style is a nice look. I also slightly bevel the window side of the jamb. 3/5°. Also it's a nicer look to vary the thickness. Use 3/4 for head and foot, and 1/2× for the legs. Or, 5/4 and 3/4.
One of the best videos
Cool tip about the course screws on soft wood
Nice demonstration. I like those heavy horses.
I like the safety you guys use scaffolding and stuff while you're framing houses and all kind of carpentry lot of contractors don't do that
Those TOH guys are crafty, great stuff!
Nicely done Jaime! And thank you Eric for letting Jaime talk! 😅
That’s a cool shot with Jaime in his camo shorts and his side way look
Oh yea the stain rags most def catch on fire 🔥 lol learned that the hard way a long time ago.
You make replacing the window trim look very doable. My husband and I are looking to change out the wood in our house from oak to alder and I came across your video. I have a couple of questions, when you nail the finished window in place how do you space the nails and what size nails do you use, and in what order do you do this? The second question I have is regarding the large square and triangular windows in the A Frame area of the house; do you miter those corners or square them off?
Nailed it...great job, been watching you guys for the past month or so and have learned a lot. Keep up the great work, and merry Christmas
Shout out to Tom👍👍👍from this old house 🏠
Many years ago I used a similar method to put face trim on an octagon window in my living room. I glued and pinned the eight pieces on the floor, forming an octagon ring about 4 ft across. The window was about 16 ft up and the tricky part was where to place the ladder (yeah, no scaffolding!) to access all of it for nailing. The solution? Turn the trim ring upside down and place the ladder in the middle of it leaning against the middle of the window. Then picking up the trim I carefully climbed the ladder. It fit perfectly and finished a job I had put off for months.
I use a 18 ga crown stapler to assemble my jambs. Then I install the jambs and shim it to the framing so the reveal looks good on the window and then put my casing on. The only issue if they aren't shimmed would be if they installed blinds and had long screws that grabbed framing. Your way is a lot more efficient and easier though. Nice work!
11:58 Very important piece of info. My dad told me a story of leaving a rag with stain on it in a plastic bag on the dryer after doing some project. Noticed it smoking, grabbed it and tossed it in the outdoor fire pit just as it burst into flames. Spontaneous combustion is no joke. Lay them out flat on concrete or some other non-flammable surface so the heat can dissipate as it dries and not build up enough heat to reach combustion temperatures.
As always, thank you guys for the great content you put out there! Super informative!
Thanks for the great videos and all the helpful tips
Seeing this more and more often. I'll be trying it on the next window I trim!
You should invest in the pocket machine for your shop. That way you can have the pieces laying down instead of standing up. I think it will make it easier and help speed up the production. Nice job.
(1) question though aren't you supposed to cut the top & bottom to the inside the side pieces?? That's the way I was taught. When worked for a Window/Door manufacturer..
If you did I apologize it look like you nailed the top/bottom jamb pieces to the top/bottom of the side pieces.. Nice work looked really nice..
What are the advantages of preassembling? Seems it would be much easier to measure and cut piece by piece and then fasten and fill gaps and cracks. Asking as someone who is about to case 14 windows in their old house.
You guys make the best videos, thanx
This guy is adorable!
So I've watched the tour of your shop, love it. But I'm noticing some custom built drying racks in the background? Any chance you could talk about that? maybe some custom woodworking tips? Best ways to buy bulk rough cut lumber and how to dry them etc, maybe moisture meters ? Keep it up guys love the channel!
What do you do if theres a gap between the wall and trim? Do you use caulking or how do you fix that?
Very useful video. Just started finish work about a year ago and sometimes we pre build the jams and trim and sometimes we do them in place. But you guys don't use glue at all?
Nicely done.
You might consider using a tablet block to set the trim to the window liner
Very nicely done.
Loved the use of 1/2" bar stock to extend the reach of your quick clamp! New to the channel keep up the good work! Thanks,
Question. Since you used pocket holes in the trim why did you not secure it to the jamb the same way? Just curious
Good tip. When measuring a saw rip fence. You should pull the tape or use a ruler. That doesn’t have the little extra added to the end.
Just use a scrap to determine the correct width is established.
What do you mean by pulling the tape?
A tape reads differently when you pull it then when you push it. The distance of travel left by the rivets that hold the catch on the tape.
@@dekonfrost7 By "pull the tape", do you mean holding the very end against the fence and pulling so the tape would end up on the "long" end of the slack in the rivets?
Hello fellow content maker! Thanks for explaining every step! I'll be doing this at a cabin I'm building and documenting on my channel this summer. Subscribed! Looking forward to watching more helpful videos!
I've been doing this for 10yrs. Do the same with my miter trims.
DUDE
THE NEW 21GA BLOWS THE 18GA AWAY!
THE 21GA IS A BASICALLY A HAIR THICKER 23 WITH A HEAD
HALF THE SIZE HOLES OF THE 18GA!
PAINTERS LOVE THE NEW 21GA!
Gracias por enseñar tus conocimientos y fuerza amigo!
Ive always thought you had to either shim or shoot the gaps around the sill/trim w foam? Is that not included here? Guessing you shot the rough opening/window with foam. No shimming is pretty wild.
Thanks so much... I'm using your technique this week... love the step by step!!
Blessings
thanks for sharing the ideas.
I'd like to see this done when running into proud drywall, or shy drywall. Thanks. Keep it up!
How i do it too, except instead of the end grain showing on your header piece on stain grade (absorbs stain much more than face) i usually just do a miter return towards the wall and glue and 23ga pin it so the stain then matches the face
Yeah I didn't care for that either. I'd have used lighter stain at least
Kevin Tarras
Nailed it!
If the top rail has any detail in it, that 45 degree return ending into the wall, looks clean , & sharp. Well done.
A quick step that would have made the stain match better would be to have applied some of the conditioner to the end grain before the stain.
If you haven't used the 21 gauge yet you don't know what you're missing
I don't use the 18 anymore and rarely use the 23 and now use the 21 for almost everything
Love the proficiency 💪🏻👍🏻☘️☘️
That is actually so good , those triangle windows 👌👌👌 good stuff
btw, why not kreg pocket screw the face frame to the casing? more secure and less holes in the face no?
I agree. I have been doing this for years. I have a double kitchen window with framing between the windows and was able to make a complete one piece for the entire thing. Not one nail hole to fill. I hate to see nail holes!
Isn't your screw only grabbing just under 3/4" of wood then? You're going into the narrow dimension of the 1x4 unless I'm not seeing what you mean correctly.
@@tombiby5892 yeah maybe with thicker stock but with 1x4 being actually just 3/4" thick, then with the 1/4" reveal you're leaving yourself just 1/2" to hit the pocket screw into coming in at the wrong angle, unless i'm totally missing something.
You would only have 1/2" of casing to hit and would run a huge chance of breaking through. If your jamb stock was say 4/4 or 5/4 you might be able to pull it off but it would require a larger RO, window flanges, and stacks of shims.
Looks really good, thanks for sharing and looking forward to more of your videos
I love it!! Thanks guys. I bet it took some time to get this clip ready. Again, thank you.
I use five quarter at the top of window and router out ,, so that it slides over side pieces, to allow for movement and looks tight..
Love it bro looks mean. Here in new Zealand all our windows come pre Installed with the jambs and heads on them and we throw the architraves up after the windows in
Thanks bro... Some of the wood windows we buy have the jams already installed from the factory as well. I actually like it when they don’t because sometimes if the jams don’t come out flush with the drywall it’s very hard to deal with on a wood trim finish (no caulk to hide anything). Thanks for the comment and cheers from North Carolina
I have 2 brands of pocket hole fixtures the kreg drilles angle holes and a porter cable that first routes the slot then you drill the screw hole Parallel from the back of the fixture.. on a kreg it is best to have a long bar clamp or the new kreg clamp that indexes in one of the screw slots to get good tight joints IF the pieces are not tight with a kreg the angled screw will move your surfaces out of plane.
Great videos I love the knowledge
This only works if the windows were installed with an even gap between the window frame, and the rough opening, all the way around. No one ever mentions the equally important reveal from the trim’s jamb to the window’s framework edge. In my experience, not every rough opening is framed that perfect, nor does every window sit in that rough opening perfectly gapped. This is an often overlooked detail.
Keelo when I install windows I always set the jamb depth by tape measure, I set the window with the wall. It’ll be plumb side to side but front to back is with the wall, I have always felt if it’s level but doesn’t looks like it then it’s better to put it out of level and make it look right
Not necessarily so…I’ve been building window trim like this since 1988. I also take a depth measurement at each corner-in the event it’s not the same all the way around, I’ll rip my 1-by as needed to fit any opening. Still WAY better than stick building the trim.
Great shout out to this old house, that show might just catch on now that you gave them some recognition.great video.
How do you shim the trim out, since the face casing is in place?
👍 Keep these very informative,enjoyable videos coming. Thanks.
Dude, job well done & excellent video !
👊
Great video! Great tips! Great job!
Great video. I guess all my elementary school teachers were wrong we never went to the metric system....though this would be easier
Why you don't use a oil polyethylene l seen a lot of people using water base protector more often on top of stains
We call your reveal is our quirk, and your jam is our reveal. Sill still a sill. 🇦🇺