In Depth Look at Decorative Concrete Forms: #2
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
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Giving us the plan, design, build, detail, calm manor is why we love your videos. THIS is the kind of video I always love to watch. Only thing that could have made it better, is Sy at your side heckling you about your angle. Love Sy’s laugh and grin that he gets in his calm manor! Keep up the good work and keep THIS kind of video coming our way! Appreciated!!! 🙏
From a structural engineer, there’s no kill like overkill, and you’re well over sir, keep up the good work
I have been thinking of building a security/ cattle gate for our farm. What a great idea to ties both post together. Thanks for sharing the grear work.
Rather than tapping the forms with a hammer, use a reciprocating saw with the blade removed. It gives a perfect amount of vibration to the forms and won't make your arm fall of from swing a hammer.
Or a battery orbital sander...
Or borrow my female friend's vibrator. That thing is huge, it would do the job.
Or just use a concrete vibrator 😂
Structural Eng here.
The grade beam is probably not necessary (reserving that we haven't seen the end result as yet) but for the sake of doing it, it will add so much capacity and strength to the whole arrangement, even if it is offset slightly.
What I would say is, you are going to all this effort only to minimally anchor the bolts to the outside of a set of stirrups which are themselves minimally anchored into the footing pads (edit: went back and watched video #1, the tack welded stirrups are very well anchored into the footing, so disregard that. I still would want the bolts to be inside the stirrup cage ideally) I would have used much longer J-bolts that anchor into the footing rather than anchoring into those stirrups.
Its unlikely to make a difference on this particular project as it looks very over engineered as it is. But if you're going to do it this way, why not get the absolute best embedment possible?
Maybe he tack welded those too?
Do you mean the J bolts should go down another foot or so?
Also struct eng. I agree, no issue with the offset angle of the grade beam, IMHO I wouldn’t worry regarding the length of the J bolts though as 6 is plenty strong enough to hold the metal uprights and whatever hits the post would deform, bend or snap the uprights before the J bolts would fail in either tension or shear. 😊
@@MrVajutza yup agreed. Those J bolts in concrete without the rebar at all would likely do fine for this application. "That's not going anywhere" as they say.
I just thought if EC is going to this much effort (adding grade beams etc) you might as well get the best engagement out of the bolts by extending them.
@@sungear that's what I'm saying yeah, but only as best practice/ optimal performance of the bolts.
Ideally also the main shaft of the bolt should have been within a rebar cage rather than outside it. As they were placed in the video could cause the bolts to burst out the edges.
Scott, with the grade-beam, the only thing you need to do is make sure there's 1 1/2' between the soil sides and the rebar. Without at least 1 1/2 inches, the rate of oxidation is greatly increased.
When we pouring some more Concrete? Essential craftsman is built behind great people. And that's the concrete truth
I love this stuff it takes me back to the job site. I'm an electrician, but learning from this man is just great. I know working with or for this man would have been just a real honor. Guys like this are a rare thing. He not only wants you to know how but why. The knowledge and experience to answer the questions you have. Awesome! Let's goooo!
This is such an elegant and simple idea. You don’t even have to get complicated with miters etc. You could just add some 1x2’s inside the forms and it would add interest. You could even add monograms from cheapo wood or plastic letters attached backwards.
That’s a fair point, but the miters have the added benefit of reducing stress concentrations in the corners. That will keep the concrete from chipping off and leave the footing looking great forever.
@@ericwiken1990 oh duh. Just like breaking the edge or rounding the edges on wood.
Better get the rorrim out
Pilaster. Lol.
The grade beam is a great idea, and the only way you can be for sure that the post won't separate or lean. Remember, if it's a heavy gate, when it's open 90° from its closed position, it'll want to tilt the whole mess towards that direction. I did all this years ago out of 12 inch square steel tubing. 6 inch uprights out of square steel tubing, all welded. Volkswagen stub axles with tapered bearing fit inside a 3-inch pipe was inside of the six inch square pipe and 1 inch studs sticking out the side with 90° slot this way the swivel pipe was all concealed it also had a tie rod going from one day to the next so I only needed one opener and they swung together. 35 years ago.
You have a very beautiful table saw. I have a nice Powermatic 66, but yours is just on another level. You're a very fortunate man.
That's a fine job.
I’m interested to see all the wiring that goes in. Looks like you have it well catered for!
THANK YOU . KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Love and respect for this man
"It's my story, and I'm sticking to it!" 😉🤠
Thats MDO plywood. We use it for repeated use on form work. Leaves a nice finish. Cheers from Montana.
1 1/8” forms?
Thats some excellent mud carpentry sir.
I'm not an engineer, but Roseburg is like 50 minutes south of me so I'll drive down and watch you dig.
“Progressive tightening of the tolerance” … Yes!
Really enjoying this series.
I'm excited to see how this turns out.
looks like the right tool to use if your thumb is too long.
😜👍
The previous owner of my house built a 6' tall gate with two 6' wide sections, splitting in the middle. The posts are bolted to the 4" thick slab of the driveway with four 3/8" bolts each. While not the best, it is working, so I have no doubt your gate will last forever. lol
Enjoying this new mini series a lot so far! Can i ask about your hat? I've been on the lookout for one like that with a wide brim
I’m a structural engineer. Per your invitation I’ll weigh in and say that this gate will be able to eat an Abrams tank traveling at top speed.
Good job man
The plywood your using is called “MDO” it is mostly used in the sign industry. It has mdf on the outside and exterior grade plywood core.
Gadzooks. Woe be unto whoever jumps the guardrail and whacks the end of that gate. 😂
What is the brand name on the plywood forms? Only option I see around me is Tiger Form from Menards.
I have used melamine in the past. Water sealing the ends to keep it from swelling. Worked well.
I’m no structural engineer, but I am wondering if that footing is going to stay put under the torque of the gates when they are at their open position. The crossbeam seems like it will keep the posts from collapsing toward each other when the gate is closed, but I expected outriggers parallel to the road to help stabilize the posts under the load of the open gates.
We had a pair of gates put in, but our soil is very hard and rocky with no clay. With those conditions, the posts were sunk over five feet and embedded in 6’ x 6’ x 5’ reinforced concrete blocks.
If you look at the gate column foundations, they look to be about 4-5 yards of concrete each (not including the connecting strap beam). Each foundation will weigh close to 20K lbs, that will have to support swinging gates about 6’ high X 7’ long. Just from the plan elevation, I’d estimate the gates to weigh in at about a ton each? Those foundations should hold up like a champ from what I’m seeing.
Nice!!!
Did you just run 11 electrical conduit for a gate? Overbuilt on all measure, I love it
Are you doing to put a land mine field in between the gate and the highway guardrail to keep folks from driving around the gate? 🙂
It’s so hot here Crisco would melt
Would be interesting to see you change the concrete slomp with superplasticiser instead of water. Adding water is not good for your concrete.
I am curious to see why you need both 3 and 6 inch slump.
Looking forward to the next vid. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work
Great content
cool
On a project like this where there will be a reasonable amount of water soaking the concrete over time, is there any reason other than a bit of up front cost not to use a crystalline waterproofing admixture like Xypex or Kryton to protect the rebar?
This traffic noise is brutal. Maybe a sound wall is in order.
Blimey there are a lot of pick up trucks going by..🧐
Definitely engineered for the zombie apocalypse.. or alternatively, deer.
I was going to suggest a jig like you have made to hold the bolts in the last video. Only difference, maybe wrap them in something like a pool noodle, which when burnt out after concrete has set will give a little wriggle room when fitting the bolts. No doubt though you wont need it 😅
We’re you a member of the UBC?
I noticed last video that the grade beam was crooked lol
So I'm confused -- what's the point of an elaborate security gate if the trespassers can just walk around it between the gate and the highway? Will there be a fence?
There will Definitely will be a fence!
That sure looks like a lot of gate
What kind of pliers/cutters did you use to cut the small wooden pieces with? I couldn't tell if they were a new tool I hadn't seen or just tin snips.
Multi Angle Miter Sheers ! they have been around for more that 40 years . the better ones cost around $35 dollars . Don;t waste your money on the cheaper ones
Oh cool, thanks dude.
I like how clean and easy the cut was. Even if it only cuts it that clean for pieces around that size then they're very handy. No running to the mitre saw or having to use a hand saw.
i call those my silly scissors
An M1A1 won’t be able to drive through that gate!
Dont forget pilasters
And plinth.
Pillars
Pylons
Posts
Pilasters
Plinths
Poles
What else?
I forgot exact depth because final grade was far from being established but reminds me of these huge 10ftx10ft piers at these apts all with 10 runs x2 planes of 10ft #9 rebar. There was 15 piers with 200ft of #9 rebar and that much concrete with an elevator shaft and a footer perimeter wall connecting the outside piers
Beauty
Can we hear you playing music again?
3" slump? That's a dry mix right there.
It’s so the concrete in those stub columns will “stand up” sufficiently and not flow back out the bottom. Similar to if you were trying to pour a set of stairs. (3” is probably a little overkill though).
9:25 every supers favorite word, V.I.F. by others!
Yea, you could always tell when an architect was beginning to get out of their expertise, by the amount of times that note starts showing up.
Nice work 😂
Too bad you find a need for a gate like that.
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍👍🍻🍻🍻👀👀👀🥃🥃🥃☕️☕️☕️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
What a fun project. I can't wait to see how it turns out.
Incidentally what you're using the Crisco for is likely the best use for it, nobody should be ingesting it. Vegetable oils started out as engine lubricants until someone had the terrible idea to start putting them into food (and they are in just about everything). It's no coincidence that chronic disease such as heart disease, cancer, Alzheimer's, Type 2 diabetes and obesity have been on the rise ever since that crapola was introduced into our food, they wreak havoc on our metabolisms. Restaurants go through these oils by the 5 gallon bucket, they put it on everything and fry in it. Avoid!
✌🏿
The really sad part is that you are even having to build such a fort knox of security gates, cameras, etc. What does this tell us about what's happening to society. So incredibly sad.
I'd skip using the rebar, code or not. Rebar rusts as concrete isn't water proof. And 20-30 years down the road this cement will be falling apart. I'd use masonry techniques from Europe, stone and cement, or 2-3 inch rock/ cement mixed with smaller rocks for surface retention in the cream. This way the cement lasts for longer periods of time.
I don’t know how they do it in Europe, but code in the US is not a suggestion. It’s the minimum allowable, by law.
20-30 years is a gross under-exaggeration for reinforced concrete, expected useable lifespan. 100 years is the generally accepted minimum. All of the reinforcement shown to this point, seems to be adhering to ground contact standards, which is 3 inches, rather than the typical 3/4” above ground clearances. So 100+ years should easily be expected.
I understand your point but, there's a lot of bridges now crumbling due to rusted rebar, bridges are easy to see, compared to underground foundations. Mike Haddock has a 40 year history of concrete work, and his father before him. On RUclips, checkout some of his videos. My dad, 86 now, worked all his life in the concrete and excavation business, did a lot of work on foundations but never used rebar.. there needs to be more study on this subject. Bottom line is concrete, isn't waterproof, porous, allowing moisture in, rusting is inevitable... Long before 100 hopeful years. Bridges well built with steel, and concrete use stainless steel on big projects, because they know this
@@ridgwalkerg You’re not wrong. I’m a career concrete guy and I hate the idea that everything I ever professionally contributed to this world will likely be gone (or unusable) in less than ~150 years. But I [usually] never drew the plans or did the engineering calculations. As long as the plans call for mild steel rebar, that’s what I (and everyone else) are obligated to put in there. I’m not sure where your dad built that he was able to omit the use of rebar, but that’s typically not the case for most municipalities. The plans are submitted and approved with what’s specified on them and that’s what the project is built and inspected by.
Stainless steel rebar? Gold and silver don’t rust either. Even chromium infused stainless steel can rust a little. I’ve used galvanized rebar, fiberglass rebar and epoxy coated rebar and even greased, sheathed steel cable, but never stainless rebar. (Epoxy coated rebar, at one time, was thought to be the fix to the problem of rusting rebar, but it’s been pretty much phased out at this point because over time it proved to fail just like everything else.)
Really, the bottom line is the “bottom line” (cost). Stainless will add about 300%+ to the cost of your reinforcing steel, so if your project can take that kind of economic hit, than that might be the route to go. I’ve never worked on a project that the builder was willing to afford that and honestly never even saw one. Not even government funded, interstate highway bridges use stainless steel, so I’m not sure what bridges you’re referring to that are using stainless rebar. Please supply a link.
www.worldstainless.org/files/issf/non-image-files/PDF/Structural/P434_Stainless_steel_bridges_Dec_2021_US.pdf
www.worldstainless.org/Files/issf/non-image-files/PDF/Infrastructure/Concrete_bridge_reinforcement.pdf
As a structural detailer (someone who works under the engineers and gets to create the drawings for bridge and other structural projects) I'm loving this little series. Us office guys hardly ever get to go out into the field and see the projects being constructed that we spend so much of our lives (sometimes years) putting together. But tagging along with Scott on his projects is honestly some of the most invaluable information I've ever taken in, and I try to apply it to my DIY projects around my house. Long time subscriber. Keep up the good work, Scott!
No an engineer, but I built and installed gates with my father for more than 20 years. I've never seen this amount of work to put together a drive gate that wasn't paid for by the government. This is wild.... I do not even have the words to describe the over built measures in these calculations.....
Your used to living are one use products and cheap art?
This gate is paid for by RUclips fans....
You’ll never know if you overbuild it !!! Word that were told to me by an old carpenter when we were building concrete forms . We never had a form blow out !!!
@@kiwigrunt330so a vatican pass through by way of loyola in cooperation with the post great depression great new deal communist wellfare facade we call the capitalist free market of artificial scarcity at gunpoint?
@@kiwigrunt330to simplify
2008 signifies no one is really the businessman they think they are and everyone is the commodity they think they aren't
HAPPY TRAILS¡!¡
I'm always amazed at your ability to see in 3D in reverse with your forms.
My carpentry career started with wood framing and then when I moved on to concrete, there was definitely a period of “reprogramming” that had to be done, to learn to think in relief (backwards) and 3D.
Instead of tape on imbeds and conduits, we have been using aluminum foil. No sticky mess after the pour and does the same job 👍
Also goes well with the Crisco theme
I use those shears to cut shoe mold and quarter round. Stops the majority of the up & down and outside for re-cuts.
The chamfer edges are a nice detail. In 1974, when I was an engineering student I worked for an electric substation construction contractor and we always put chamfers on our foundation above-ground column edges. They looked better, in my opinion. Keep up your good work on the videos and the content.
It would not surprise me one bit if adding a chamfer to the top of the column edges made them last longer too. Less of an angle for ice to collect on, seep in, and pry the concrete apart. But I'm no engineer, so I'd be just as unsurprised if I was totally off-base.
Must be all utilities that love having decorative concrete work. I manage all of the foundation work for our local utility in Southern California. Their designs always incorporate chamfered edges for both substation and pole foundations.
I sincerely hope that the need for this extra security isn’t a result of weirdo’s from the comments section turning up at your doorstep uninvited.
I know of a RUclipsr that experienced that. She had to get a restraining order.
I’m glad it’s mostly deer, but you’re probably right. This is also probably why he didn’t add a monogram or negative of the EC logo to the form.
Thats what I was thinking first. Then he said deer and stuff. But with the security cams, big gate, electric system, and such. Sounds like fans showing up and not understanding that you may be a fan, but you can't just show up to someone's house like this!! People only think of themselves and think the world revolves around them. This is going to be an amazing gate though!!!
If the Banana Republic continues on the path it currently is most Americans will want this.
I visited Scott once while in his town for work. It’s pretty remote so you’d have to be pretty darn determined. At the time he told me it’s actually very rare, only one person had ever come unannounced (I asked before arriving in town)
Wow!!! Your detail and precision with this project is amazing…. There is no contractor in the U.S. that would construct something with that much detail and that much internal strength.
Precision... apart from the beam being crooked :)
It’s not that contractors aren’t willing to do that kind of job with precision and overbuilt level of quality. The market demands that they quote the least that will get the job done. Very few to none of the people paying for this kind of work would be ok with the bill for that level of gate installation
@@georgewelker853, Especially a homeowner, well, most homeowners. Lol Probably most jobs that are done with this degree of being overbuilt are builders/fabricators that are doing this for themselves. Sometimes that’s where the fun comes in.
@@georgewelker853 Very true and thanks for highlighting that point. We’d all love to do “pretty work” but not many want to pay for it. Reminds me of the old contractor adage; Good, Fast & Cheap. Pick 2, because the budget won’t allow for all 3.
@@georgewelker853 You are definitely right about that!!!!
I’m not sure about crisco, but white bearing grease works great up here in Canada. Also WD40 if You’re in a bind, as long as it’s not left on too long before the pour. Great work, keep it up
Cheaper than diesel fuel which is commonly used around here.
@@mitchdenner9743 In the old days, diesel was the go-to form release for most everyone. Then environmental issues became a thing and they started making specific form release products. The funny thing is, the new form releases smelled exactly like diesel. As a matter of fact, on those occasions when we used to run out of form oil, we would just use diesel anyway, because it’s readily available and no one would call you out for ‘killing the planet’. No one could tell the difference. I always wondered if they made it smell like diesel on purpose, just for that reason.
@@psidvicious My money is on the form release just being a more highly refined diesel fuel that's specifically treated to remove the parts of it that we know for a fact contaminate the environment. So it smells like diesel oil because it's almost exactly diesel oil.
This new form release stuff might actually be just RP-1 rocket-fuel grade kerosene, now that I think of it.
The reason it's rocket-grade is because it's a narrower "cut" of the feedstock hydrocarbons, which helps to get rid of any chemicals that could cause heavy soot buildup in the cooling passages or fuel injector heads inside the rocket engine's combustion chamber).
Of course this makes it more expensive for the reason that they don't refine as much of it, and what little they do refine is processed at a lower yield than regular heating/farm grade kerosene.
I find it strange how stuff that was once alive (most crude oil by weight is formed of atoms that were previously part of plants from the carboniferous era, not dinosaurs) can be so persistent at snuffing life out in the present day.....
It sure gives you something to think about, but you'll have to ask someone else what it all means.
What, no 50 cal mount? Pfff! Don't forget the 240 outlet to make welding repairs a breeze. 😊
Hi Scott - great work on the gate. Love the channel and all that you share here.
The key difference between grade beams and spread footings is load path! Grade beams are usually found where there are very weak soils that can't practically support weight. They support the structure and transfer loads from the beam to piles or a similar deeper style foundation. The stirrups and rebar resist the bending and twisting that transfer places on the beams.
Spread footings do just that, spread the load out onto the soil below.
I'm not an engineer but i think i Can answer your question since i did thé research for myslef a few years ago. A footing usually transfers the load directly on the beating ground. A grade beam spans the distance between two pile. In your case your beam must resist the weight of traffic and the torque from the pillar ( the weight of the gate, wind etc). For the hoops, they serves to resist to shear forces. You know that in a beam a side is always in compression while the other is in tension (those sides can switch depending on how the load is applied), it means the forces decreases and reverses as you go up or down the beam which creates shear forces and resulting tangential forces in regard to the bearing point. Hope that helps.
considering you have put enough structure in that gate to support a 4 story commercial building i think you'll be ok that the grade beam isn't quite square.
Scott, the structure is more than adequate, even if we have the big one. And the grade beam? Wow! I'm an overbuilder also and your detail is top notch. It just takes a little bit of work and the results will be beautiful. Can't wait to see the end result.
I thought for sure you were going to have some concrete piers coming up and would do like an art deco inlay design or something, rather then just a 45° chamfer. Amazing job. Hopefully the unwanted guests that are coming up is more like coyotes or something and not dumb fans or trolls showing up at your door.
Cringed a little at the “add water to get down to a 6 in slump”. That is the age old dance between the engineer and the contractor. Probably not the end of the world but that extra water will lower the strength of your concrete. I’d recommend a super-plasticizer to increase workability without impacting strength.
ACI certified concrete inspector here, adding water to increase slump from a 3 to a 6 would be OK if the plant held back the proper amount of water at time of batching. That being, approximately 1 gallon per yard per inch of slump
If the mix is designed to meet performance reqs with the water required for 6” of slump wouldn’t just it be easier to use 6” slump for the entire pour instead of upping the water half way through?
He’s going for a monolithic pour of the foundation and stub columns all at once. The concrete needs to be stiff enough to not flow out the bottom of the stub columns. Adding plasticizer would make that difficult. They’ll likely pour the columns and main part of the foundation with the stiffer mix, then add a little water, to top the rest off.
Super plasticizer is pretty difficult to dosate on site, it would need a pretty long mixing time after adding it to the truck. when it gets added in the concrete plant its usually mixed with the water before it gets in the concrete mixer(at least thats how its done in the netherlands) if youre going to add water halfway the pour its also possible to add cement to compensate the water/cement ratio.
One thing i dont understand is that the concrete in the usa(and a lot of other places) is poured directly in contact with the surrounding soil, no formwork or foil to hold the water in the concrete. Here in the netherlands it is standart in the engineers specifications that all surfaces in contact with fresh concrete will not absorb any moisture from the fresh concrete wich seems logic to me since the tested cubes of the mix design are also cured in 100% humidity
@@B100-c4m Digging a hole and pouring concrete right against unformed surfaces is called earth forming. Engineers have found, through testing, that the water wicked away from the fresh concrete is not significantly detrimental to the concrete’s ultimate strength. This makes sense because the dirt will not continually keep pulling more and more water from the concrete. The adjacent dirt will saturate and the wicking stops in pretty short order. It’s also fairly common practice to wet the sides with a quick spray from a water hose, so you’re not pouring against completely dry earth.
Earth forming is really only most common in the US, in residential construction. In commercial construction you will almost always see all sides formed, except for the bottom. Slabs on grade typically have a plastic vapor barrier spread beneath, but footings, foundation, pile caps, etc, it’s common to pour right on the ground.
Btw, the chemical makeup of most water reducers or plasticizers is pretty close to the same thing as dishwashing soap. So in a pinch, if you wanted better workability or flow for your concrete, without adding a whole lot more water, you could dump a bottle of dish soap into the batch, to achieve a very similar result. Unfortunately I don’t remember the exact proportions off the top of my head right now.
People don't have nice things because they don't know how to build it or at least take care of it 🖖🏻
This is the first project I've gotten to watch as it goes up and it's utterly fascinating. It's a phenomenal way to start my weekends just watching you build and listening to the explanation of your thought process.
That is a fun project. Glad you found the time to do it! Fun to watch. Some day I hope to have the time.
Wow!! U know, here on the rez, it's just dig a hole and plant yur post 🤯🤣🤣
A lot to learn from 🤔🤓 thank you
Wouldn't pass inspection for a floor slab, but its a gate Scott - I think you'll be ok :)
I'm looking forward to seeing how the crisco works, that's a pretty slick trick! 😉I use playdoh all of the time in my farrier practice for building dams for acrylics - it's cheap and it works better than the expensive stuff!
Not a concrete guy, I've seen conduit ruined by not capping well enough.
Think about adding a couple extra chases, make sure your boxes are good and while you're tearing up the road maybe think about irrigation or conduit for sensors/cameras.
Looks like your guy has planned well by the amount of conduit already run.
I'm only worried about the corpse of those ants in the molds that are going to weak the concrete.
From the beginning of the spec house to now I've gone from foundations poured walls and precast now testing concrete, and inspector. Test soil bearing capacity, inspect rebar and test concrete, yield, mix, strength, and document everything
I guess I am too used to guns, I was waiting for you to take a nail in the knee..... Then again those things aren't supposed to go through wood. Not supposed to........ I want you to keep making cool videos.
Was this road always this busy? If I recall correctly this has been your families homestead for 3 generations? Roads suck. Have you done anything to block the noise coming to the house?
Cove mouldings look really cool, too! Worth the effort. Nice job!
Those are not chamfer cutters. Those are shoe mold cutters. While I know to a certain degree that's the same thing I Aldo know to a much more bigger degree it's not. And why so much overkill for the gate? Your name is essential correct? Or should it be the exorbitant craftsman??
A footing uses the bearing capacity of the earth for support. As long as the footing is in contact with mother earth, it will be doing its job. A grade beam is beam that is "at" or "below" grade level. Like any other beam, it will need to be supported (typically at the ends and sometimes along its span). Even though a lot of the grade beam is in contact with mother earth, it is typically supported by tying into a larger footing or bearing on piles, and piers etc. Think of it as an underground beam that would maintain its integrity even if the soils around it were to give away.
During my career, I have seen miles of chamfer strips installed on bridges performing the task of breaking 90 deg+ corners which are weak, beauty strips on columns and walls, flutes, drip lines, etc. I realize you are doing architectural formwork that requires more accuracy for closer inspection. On bridges in my state, more times the strips are installed to create the location and roughly form the chamfer accents that are rubbed out while the concrete is still green enough to look great. I am not a structural engineer, but in my construction experience, the beam below the entire roadway is definitely not important to the stability of the upright support posts, unless there is something about the design I haven't seen yet. A little larger footing for each post is all that was really needed. I also would not wait a week to wreck the forms. A day is sufficient if you are careful and certainly makes achieving a nice, rubbed finish easier. Thanks, and nice work.
As far as the grade beam goes, I believe it's less about stability but more for making everything monolithic, and tying the posts together. If there is any movement of the structure in the future, it won't affect the alignment of the gate and posts. Not an engineer either, but I do detail and draft construction plans for bridges in PA. Agree that we call out either 3/4" x 3/4" or 1" x 1" chamfers or 1" radius on pretty much everything above grade, like you mentioned. Sharp edges = inevitable cracking in the future. It looks way nicer too!
Possibly Carpet Gripper Rod Cutters Scott?
I used bacon grease for form release before. It workrd well but the ants loved it!
I have to do the same at my place. At least I'm alot more inspired and motivated to design and construct it. Nothing like that feeling of seeing what was in your mind coming to creation. 😎✌️
Use a sawzall without a blade to vibrate the forms
Always enjoy and learn from your videos. Keep up the good work👍👍.
Watching that bit about making the concrete form with teh chamfers I think is the best, most direct representation of how your thought process works.
More than enough structure, Great Show.