Audi A4 B8 - 🔊 Upgrade front dash speakers to Dayton Audio RS75-4 3"
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Get the speakers from Parts Express:
www.parts-expr...
Adapters:
www.audizine.c...
Trim removal kit:
www.banggood.c...
Mini rachet kit:
www.banggood.c...
Connector removal kit:
www.banggood.c...
Heatshrink tube:
www.banggood.c...
Audio capacitor calculator:
www.lautsprech... 
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Dayton Audio RS75-4 3" are much more detailed and handle maximum volume without absolutely any sign of distortion, compared to the original ones that were quite bad at low volume and an absolute distorted mess at maximum.
you could cross those down to a much lower frequency as well, the oem crossover for the tweeter is due to it being a tweeter that can't handle those lower frequencies. the b&o system (granted it is a 3 way) crosses over at 250hz for the mids, and 4k for the sail panel tweets.
@@wrxkyle can you explain for dummies how to do that please?
If you have links it would be great
@@Ranhola1 I believe it's a challenge because you have to find where the oem crossover is. If it's simply an in line capacitor you can get rid of the capacitor and have full range. I think these can handle full range as they are mid range speakers. If the crossover is coming from an oem amplifier or head unit you'll probably have to go with an aftermarket setup to bypass? That's the best of my knowledge. I'm no pro in car audio.
The speakers on the back doors are completely broken on my car now... they are excluded by the unit. The right one in front already stated to grind, so I'm looking forward to found somewhere an... "ultimate diy" guide!
Hopefuly I will also change them soon. They are quite weak.
So maybe a tutorial coming soon :))
This video deserves 100000000 likes. Very good. Above and beyond
Thank you!
I changed dash speakers to Visaton FRS8 (8om). Crossover point 400Hz, so I installed capacitors 47mkF to Visatons and coils 1.5mH to door speakers. It's way better than stock system.
Perfect 👍🏻
Changed dash speakers once more :D to FaitalPro 3FE22 (4ohm) + 100mkF bipolar capacitors. Sound is much better!
Ok 😄👍🏻
@@mindaugass did you used this one also for the center speaker or only for the left right dash speakers
I know this may be a silly question, but are the dayton audio rs75-4 3" used on the dash side speakers too?
If yes I'm assuming it's with the bypass capacitor to limit the frequency response. Thank you for the video it already answered so many questions 😊
Yes, same model also on the dash sides and connected trough capacitor.
First, thank you for the fantastic video. Excellent work as always.
I have the 25V 47uf capacitors, but I am not sure how to wire them; which terminals of the 2 capacitors wire to which and + or - to the speaker?
Do I *need* the capacitors? What would happen if I did not add them to the 2 side DA RS75-4s?
Glad my video helps. I think I also show in the video how I connected the capacitors. But in case I did not show that properly, here you cand find a lot of info: www.quora.com/What-does-a-capacitor-do-on-a-Tweeter
@@UltimateDIY I wanted to check, from the -ve terminal of the speaker, you solder to the -ve of the first 25V/47uf capacitor, then the 2 +ve legs soldered together, meaning the -ve leg of the 2nd 25V/47uf connects to incoming the -ve speaker feed?
I think that's what you say, and I think I can see the wide white -ve stripe on the outside of both caps, but I just wanted to check.
@jumpinjon yes. Soldering the capacitors in series like that results in a non polarised capacitor.
@@UltimateDIY You are a legend, thank you mate
Welcome!
They put 8ohm in the dash to attenuate the sound by 3db. To make them blend in. So they don't stand out. It's for imaging
And if the new speakers have less sensitivity. Then you still keep the same db output even if they get more power
Thanks for this info 👍🏼
Little tip for removing any plastic parts with clips. Heat them up real good first, so the plastic can flex without breaking. Heat gun, if your very careful, or just turn your heater on in the car, and let it get nice and warm for a long while.
Thank you for the suggestion.
Having installed 3x Dayton Audio RS75-4, I found the 2 side speakers to be too loud.. replacing the stock 8ohm speakers with 4ohm made them overwhelm the overall soundscape. So, I have switched to the DA RS75-8 models for the sides and the RS75-4 in the middle and that gives a better, more balanced upgrade.
You should not change the impedance. If you have 8 ohm you install 8 ohm and if you have 4 you install 4.
Hey just curious about the speakers. So you only have the dayton 3" and the door speakers, or is it a 3 way with door speakers, tweeters, and the dayton?
Daytons from corners of dash are working as tweeters. So in front 3" Daytons plus door speakers. In the rear I did not replace the speakers at all.
@UltimateDIY
If all goes well, I am getting for a daily driver a 2010 Audi A4 Avant with the Bang & Olufsen system, and it appears to be a 3-way system.
Great 👍🏻
Yes, that is a 3 way system.
@UltimateDIY
Oh, ok. Your videos are very helpful.
Thanks 👍🏻
Great video, did you also upgrade the door speakers? If yes, what did you use?
Thank you. Yes, I did upgrade them: ruclips.net/video/GHxTzL9S9TI/видео.html
Thanks, I have watched that video too. I wanted to ask you something. Firstly, I got the same stock sound system as you, you mentioned that it is not worth it to upgrade the door speakers so I will take your words on that. Do the dashboard speakers change make such a big difference? What speakers should i change firstly to make a significant difference? Have you also considered changing the door tweeters (the ones on the upper side of the door, next to the hinge)?
For start I would only upgrade the radio unit in the trunk and add a subwoofer.
We don't have tweeters in the front doors. The ones in the rear doors arr not worth upgrading.
@@UltimateDIY i already added a subwoofer in the trunk along with an amplifier. What do you mean by radio unit in the trunk? Do any of the speaker upgrades make a significant difference?
The radio unit that I upgraded here: ruclips.net/video/KevtT1T7nS0/видео.html
I would not upgrade any speakers before that.
Te salut.
Am exact mașina că și a ta și doresc să renunț la sistem bang Olufsen pentru că mi au picat 3 boxe Intr un an și s satul
Doresc să schimb absolut tot înafara de woofer. Ce boxe îmi recomanzi ? Că și buget nu as vrea sa depășesc 2000 lei . Mersi ;)
Salut. Nu pot sa recomand nimic in afara de ce am folosit deja, si anume Dayton Audio. Dar, din pacate nici mie nu imi mai merge un difuzor, deci nici cu difuzoare upgradate nu mergi la sigur. Inca nu am avut timp sa vad de ce nu mai merge. Sper sa fie problema de conexiuni si nu difuzorul in sine.
Hey your video is amazing thank you!! Do you think a 3.5 inch speaker would fit in the center? I can't get the Dayton's in my area.
Hi. Impossible for me to guess... As you can see the ones I used barely fit. Who knows about others....
Any luck I’m currently looking to purchase speakers currently trying to decide between 3” or 3.5” any follow up info is much appreciated
@@canadianprecisionaudio8555 I just purchased a 3.5 inch speaker for the center dash. I plan to install this weekend, so remind me if it fits.
@@tikimaka1 any update I have some 3.5” waiting lol
@@canadianprecisionaudio8555 Won’t fit. 3.5 is too big. I purchased some Skars speakers hoping it would fit. Returned and bought the 3” Dayton and retrofitted like the video. The Dayton center speaker actually sounds pretty good. FYI, I bought some Memphis audio 2.75 inch tweeters for the corner dash. Make sure you install some bass blockers Otherwise it will blow.
Salut! Mai ai masina? Esti multumit in continuare de difuzoare?
Salut. Da si da 😊
Helle bud, homay ohm has the original middle speaker? Ithink it has 8 ohm. Why did you change into 4 ohm?
Next quastion tweeters has 8 ohm too right? Can i change the new tweeter with 8 ohm tweeter with out to diy the elektrical(capasitor) like what yo have done?
I like this vid bud
Hello. To be sure you must measure your speakers to see if they are 4 or 8 ohms. Audi uses both variants in the A4 B8.
You need to use a capacitor.
very well explained, thanks for the video! Do you have the 3D print file for the adapter rings?
Welcome! No, I don't have such file, as I used wood.
all of the speakers are 4 ohms. 8T0035 416. 415B, 411A, 399, 399B, 397A
Te salut din nou
Doresc sa pun pe boxele din planșă de Bord stânga dreapta și mijloc alte boxe
Ma gândesc la Audison ap2Mv sau audison ap3
Ce părere ai ap3 ar fi prea mult ? Ma gândeam măcar ap3 sa fie in mijloc și ap2 pe margini și spate la polița de sub luneta . Găsisem și ceva kenwood fiind mai puternice la rms W cu dublu dar nu cred ca este chiar pe bune . Mersi
Salut. Grija mare cu dimensiunile. S-ar putea sa nu aiba loc. Nu pot sa recomand nimic altceva in afara de ce am montat la mine si am vazut ca intra.
hi. can you calculate the capacitors for the 8ohm speakers. is it 10nf with 50 volts? and is there a vid of the rear speakers. did you changed them too?
Hi. You can use this to calculate: www.lautsprechershop.de/tools/t_condensor_en.htm
I did not replace the rear speakers.
@@UltimateDIY i found the module 056 C. now only the right side is working 😂. i need let this enable it. and i found the issue. all of my door speakers are dead. need to replace them 😒
You might need to decode the new radio.
@@UltimateDIY need to go to the dealer? or do you have maybe other methods with vcds
Only the dealer can decode it
Sunt curios prin ce redai muzica m-am saturat de card sd si cablu aux iar modulele acelea bluetooth ce se conecteaz ala aux si la priza masini nu sunt calitative
Deocamdata de pe card SD :)
Daca nu am boxa la jumătate inseamna ca am sistemul stock?Nici măcar pe cel cu 10 boxe,nu?
Da, ai sistemul low, cum am avut si eu.
Salut.. Am același tweetere pe mașină dacă le schimb cu ceva mai performante tot de 8 ohm se îmbunătățește sunetul..? Am si stație jbl instalată și tweetere bang olufsen în uși... Sau să pun difuzoare bang olufsen în bord. Am audi ss pe mașină.
Merci
Salut. Imi pare rau, dar nu am idee.
Do you have any video /fix on a weak FM signal in a Audi b8 allroad?. Thanks
No, sorry. Maybe you have a bad contact for the antenna?
Hi Man. Do 3” speakers fit perfectly to the center dash board for an audi a4 b8 2011?
Hi. As it's shown in the video, you need adapters.
@@UltimateDIY Hi Thanks man, I m thinking about installing a diff brand of speaker but it seems like I would need to do a spacer anyway. Thank you for the informative videos.
Yes. Otherwise you can have problems with the available space for the magnet.
FaitalPro 3FE22 fits perfect without adapter. You just need to cut 2 of 4 holders. faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=401000101
Thank you for this info!
This guy is an absolute livesafer for a4 owners.
I think i am going to do this, whey i finish the other speakers in the car.
I will only upgrade the center speaker.
The audi passive system is just crap. I hate it. No dynamics or bass. But at least it is better than hyundai sound systems.
Check out my latest video from my car related playlist. With a simple coding the sound can be greately improved.
Link pls @@UltimateDIY
@Alvah37 here it is: ruclips.net/video/gSnln_EV5lU/видео.html
Hi I searched everywhere, I have the standard sound system (not Audi Sound System) and my right tweeter is broken. Do you know if it´s the same speakers as in your video (part number 8T0035399A)... And can I also install the dayton audi RS75-4?
Hi. I had the standard system also. Initially I only upgraded the radio unit in the trunk.
In theory you can use the same speaker that I used. But, I don't recomend replacing only one of the speakers, as the sound will not be balanced left/right.
@@UltimateDIY yes i know. I’d replace both of course.
You don't need Daytons. You can install cheap and good sounding Visaton TW6NG: www.visaton.de/en/products/drivers/cone-tweeters/tw-6-ng-8-ohm
I still prefer my Daytons, but yes, obviously, there are many cheaper speakers that would fit in there.
Did you say all the dash speakers are 3 Inc?
Sorry, but I don't remember. The size is mentioned in the video.
can i just use coaxial speakers for my tweeters without using capacitors
No, because they will change the impedance of the system.
@@UltimateDIY can i use the stock center dash speaker for the tweeters, i just tested it out, sounds really good and loud, but on full blast it sounds like its going to blow, any ideas?
It does not work like that. That is a fullrange speaker as far as I know. Not specialised for high frequencies in particular. You can try to use it with a capacitor, but it will not sound as good as a dedicated tweeter.
My front center speaker sounds way too high pitched for certain sounds. Like some voices really just pierce my ears. Any solution for this?
I ended up canceling mine directly from the trunk radio connector. I know some will not agree, but I just did not like what it was adding to the sound.
@@UltimateDIY do you think adding a low pass filter may help as well?
I honestly don't know. For me the bad souds came out even a low frequency.
Hello Ultimate DIY are these speakers better then the B&O midtones? i have the 2 B&O midtones in the front and the sound is not that great, if so please contact me i want to order a set. ( im only pleased with the center speaker tho.
Hello. From forums discussions, they seem to be better. I can't tell you, as I did not have the B&O.
@@UltimateDIY can i have your e-mail i want a plug and play set.
Sorry. This chat is the only way to discuss.
Great videos! Thinking that you don't only do great little projects, but also everything with one hand... :) Are you a Finn?
Thank you! I'm romanian :)
hey. i think you are right about 8 ohms... if the front dash speakers and the front door speakers are connected parrallel. then they are 8 ohms. it will decrease to 4 ohms. still figuring out how they are connected. 8ohms / 2 speakers = 4 ohms.. I need to put a resistor i think. but have no clue what wattage/ohms resistor i have to put. i want to put 2x 4 ohms speakers front dash and the mirror speaker. total wattage of 70 watts rms/ 140 watts max. Do you have a clue? 100W/2R? or 200W/2R? If i put it in serial it will be 8 ohms and it will decrease the wattage of the speakers. B&O system are all speakers connected separate. thats why they are 4 ohms
Hi. Don't use resistors. Tou are just wasting power and transaforming it into heat.
@@UltimateDIY you have now 4 ohm woofer at the front doors and a 4 ohm in the dash. parallel connected. the total impedience is now 2 ohms. is that not too low for the amp
Take a look at this. It's exaplained much better than I ever could.
”**A word of warning:** I am going to use "impedance" and "resistance" interchangeably, when in fact, they're not strictly the same. Resistance is for DC, impedance is for AC. I hope I don't drive anyone to therapy.
Crossovers are a combination of one or more filters. These filters can be:
* highpass (blocking low frequencies)
* lowpass (blocking high frequencies)
* notch (blocking or attenuating a narrow range)
* bandpass (a highpass & lowpass combined to just leave the middle)
Let's take the most basic of filters: a single capacitor, placed in series with a tweeter. Capacitors resist low frequency oscillations but allow through high frequency oscillations. Since the capacitor's resistance is *high* at low frequencies, Ohm's law states that voltage will be *low*. If voltage is low, then so is the SPL produced by the tweeter. Our tweeter will make no bass.
Instead of capacitors, woofers use an inductor placed in series. An inductor resists high-frequency swings but allows *low* frequency swings to pass through. At high frequencies, resistance is high, so the woofer produces little SPL. No cymbals from our woofer.
It's important to note that each of these filters function independant of each other. If you unplugged the tweeter, the woofer would still not make any high frequencies. The high impedance at high frequencies means no high frequency voltage. Period.
Anyway, now let's place these two filters in parallel with each other, plug them into a source, and crank some Lou Reed (we'll miss you, Lou!). Low frequencies are all dominated by the 4ohm woofer. The impedance of the cap+tweeter is so high that it will receive very little low-frequency voltage, so it basically does not reproduce low frequency at all (place a 4ohm resistor in parallel with a 32ohm resistor and the 32ohm will barely be visible in the result). On the high end, the 4ohm tweeter produces sound, but the woofer does not--basically the opposite of the woofer.
Now, about impedance. Let's create a mental picture of the two filter halves wired in parallel to the same source. The woofer impedance is low (4 ohms) at low frequencies, but swoops upwards as the inductor has more and more of an effect. The tweeter impedance is low at high frequencies (4 ohms), swooping upward at low frequencies. These two upward arcs will meet somewhere in the middle, hopefully just before they begin to REALLY skyrocket. Let's say they meet when each filter is approaching 8 ohms. So we have two 8ohm loads in parallel, right? That means, at this frequency (which should hopefully be near the acoustic crossover frequency), the net impedance "seen" by the amplifier is 4ohms.
More or less. No driver is a perfectly flat or predictable line. But when dealing with textbook examples, we always assume they are. ”
So, basically it will be 2 ohm only exactly at the crossover frequency. I doubt the amp will care.
@@UltimateDIY thats a lot info at once. thanks a lot
How is size this speaker?
I already explained all I know in the video.
Anyone knows the plug connector part no or name?
awesome video and explanation of your experience. i feel very similar about those tweets.
Thank you 👍🏻
this is a good upgrade for the stock b&o?
Yes. This speakers are much better than any OEM ones.
Could i instal a 3,5” speaker?
I don't think so.
Is the middle ststem the bose??
No.
Head unit power or amp power for the tweeters?
I don't have a dedicated amp.
Great guide as always!
thanks
Thanks!
Whaat are the exact capacitors you would use? thx.
Not sure what you mean. I show in the video the capacitors that I used.
It's better to use film capacitors, not electrolytic. Wima, for example: eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2-47-50-20A?qs=pCRgUvwHhz%252Be%252By%2FG4IpGWg%3D%3D. There are "audiophile" capacitors also :D Just for example : www.blackdotaudio.eu/jantzen-audio-silver-z-cap-capacitor-4-7-uf-800vdc-2-mkp-p-253.html
Nice and informative videos. Thanks!
Thank you!
I did something similar with the sub-woofer, but I used MDF wood. Very easy to work with and strong.
Yes, MDF is really good. I will probably use it for adapters when I change the door speakers.
@@UltimateDIY make sure to seal the mdf with some kind of sealant or even flex seal or whatever,if you use mdf in doors you can get water that slips through the window seal and mdf hates water falls apart quick.
Good point! Will take it into account.
@@wrxkyle I did use weather stripping and sealants to prevent any rattling and for a secure fit. Plus my sub is rated for outdoor use. No worries here.
@@EivindFlores i mean to seal the wood itself, mdf swells and disintegrates when exposed to moisture. so like a laquer or sealant paint for the mdf. only a concern in doors.
Great job with the video. FWIW, the non-B&O systems in the B8/8.5 Audi A4/S4, A5, S5, RS5, Q5, SQ5 and A4 Allroad are 8-ohms at the outer speakers and 4 ohms in the center. The B&O systems are all 4-ohms across the entire dash as well as the rear deck. The rear deck speakers in the B&O system are the exact same speakers as the two outer speakers in the dash with the exception of the A4 Allroad, which has different speakers in the rear. I offer complete plug and play kits that use the appropriate 4 or 8-ohm speakers for each of the aforementioned models. They come with the brackets and wiring harnesses installed with OEM connectors that mate with the factory wiring harnesses so all you have to do is swap them out. Here's a link to the description of the upgrade kits with links to the specific classified ads.
www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/904231-Dash-speaker-upgrade-kits
Feel free to contact me with any questions via PM inside the Audizine or AudiWorld forums or via the email address supplied in the ad. Pricing information is supplied in the links for the ads inside the above link. Please note that the Dayton Audio RS75-8 8-ohm speakers are currently on back order from Parts Express and won't be back in stock until 1/08/2021.
Thank you for this info! Your kits should make things much easier for many people!
I would also buy 4ohm for the outer speakers, because they are a bit less efficient compared to the factory ones, so with 8 ohms you would get less volume.
Hi slightly confused as to which Ohm speakers I should be buying as I have the same car and sound system.
Should I buy 2x 8 Ohm for the outer speakers and a 4 Ohm speaker for the centre speaker for the best sound quality?
@@tombear1210 The two outer speakers for the non-B&O system are both 8 ohms (Dayton Audio RS75-8). The center speaker in the non-B&O system and all three speakers in the B&O system are 4-ohm speakers (Dayton RS75-4). The outer speakers in the dash for the non-B&O system are both tweeters and are paired with the woofers in the doors and require the 10 uF capacitor to act as a high pass filter at 2 kHz as each pair shares the same amplifier channel. The center speaker in the non-B&O system and all three dash speakers in the B&O system are all mid-range speakers and each one has a dedicated amplifier channel. The DSP unit provides the crossover frequencies for each of the mid-range speakers in either system and therefore they do not require a capacitor. The two speakers in the rear deck for the B&O system are the same as the mid-range speakers at the outside of the dash and also have dedicated amplifier channels and crossovers supplied by the DSP.
@@UltimateDIY are capacitors really required with these speakers since they are more powerful and have a larger frequency range than the stock ones?
Are they not capable of playing safely without capacitors?
Thank you
just for info how are front channels speakers connected. Basic audio system have 4ohm bass speaker in the door and 8ohm tweeter in the dash, they are in parallel connection, final impedance is 2.6ohm. Audi sound system have 2ohm bass speaker in the front door and same 8ohm tweeter in the dash, so final impedance 1.6ohm. B&O is quite different, speakers are not in parallel connection, it have separate channels for bass and mid/hi. So there is just minor impedance differences between basic and Audi sound system
It's not quite as simple as you say here. Because we have the capacitor in series with the tweeter, things change. Take a look here: techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/67729-will-wiring-8-ohm-woofer-and-tweeter-present-a-4-ohm-load-to-amp#post67729
@@UltimateDIY I meant at nominal impedance, I know that impedance depend of frequency, but I still think that tweeter should have arround 8 ohm also with capacitor. But I am not sure :)
I honestly don't know. For me it's the first time I see a tweeter with a different impedance from the woofer. Normally they are 4-4 or 8-8.
But if I would need to buy speakers for the dash again, I would still go for 4ohm. The original tweeters are a bit higher efficiency, so from the fact that I installed 4ohm speakers I actually compensated for this.
14:40 😂🐐
Size.... please
All info is available in the video and title
Hey man, my audi A5 8.5 sound is terrible, i dont know anything about sound systems but im forcing myself to understand and need to change that shit sound.My golf 6 sound system basic was much better, cant believe that audi failed.Good video
Hey! They did not fail. This was the intention, make the base sound system sound like s#it, so they can make more money with the overpriced higher end systems.
@@UltimateDIY my plan is change tweeters with dayton and add active subwoofer in trunk then turn down bass in settings, finger crossed
Hope it works well for you 👍🏻
After 👍
here's how the door panel clips work if they are being stubborn (I broker a couple on the rear which was 1000x more stubborn than the front) - ruclips.net/video/WyNq6Y9ajxs/видео.html
Change play back speed to x1.5… thank me later
Better 10x, skip to the end and close it. Welcome!
True sound specialist will tel you the center speaker is the worst and first thing they delete is this speaker if it's instaled by factory. Second thing that this speakers meant to be the mid range speakers not high range speakers so that's not their destination. Another thing is that audi sound is shit there is no crossover on the high range speakers (the condensators you put) is like sound system in dacia worth. Disconnect the woofers and play loud sound you will se the hihg range speakers will fart and they should not. True good sound system should be instaled on the crossover, even the "bass" speaker in doors play full range and this sound shitty. Proper instal is woofer and tweeter speaker on crossover as the separeted system. Tells you the owner of b8 and reworked sound system as it should be.
You are right about many things, but wrong about what the average individual is willing to spend on improving the sound in terms of money and time. Also, people expect different things from a sound system and to think only one way to do it (yours), is the good way for everybody, is a little ignorant and opinionated.
PS: I love the Dacia name involvement here, in an attempt to hurt my fragile feelings.
@@UltimateDIY so we can say you are type of person who have money to buy audi and dont have money to maintance one the way it should be. Dont take my words as offence but I call that "onion people" I know that not evryone is pro but i hate this kind of tutorials that shows the wrong way to do things.
You could't offend me even if you try. Especially when your logic is that audio stuff is maintaining the car.
Also, you are not the first of your type to pop up on the channel. I call this type of people narrow minded. Weirdly enough is that most are our own Romanians. Probably that means something if you think about it.
It's quite sad that you did not understand anything frow what I wrote, but I guess it was to be expected.
Thank you for this explanation!