I did the same thing to my Rivarossi Southern Crescent Limited coaches, but I body mounted Kadee couplers and I believe they were shelf head whisker couplers. The new #148 whisker couplers replace the old #5's and are much easier to deal with. Couplers that are mounted to the trucks are called talgo trucks and I hate 'em. I always cut them off, body mount Kadee's and turn the trucks around if they don't hit anything underneath the model. I think I had to add some shims between the coupler box (draft box) and the chassis as the couplers were a little high. Only 2 ways to adjust coupler height; either raise or lower the coupler or raise/lower the trucks. Raising or lowering trucks can be done several different ways. Sanding off some of the bolsters or adding a washer between the trucks and bolsters. Cheers from eastern TN
This is a fantastic instructional video. I had been putting off this project for 8 Rivarossi Burlington Northern passenger cars and I finally tackled it today. It was actually quite easy following this video. I was able to finish each pair of trucks in 15-20 minutes.
Thanks for the video. The reason you have to file that stuff off the bolsters is the height without filing is for when you replace the wheels with 36" wheels. I found that Bachmann 33" wheels roll very nicely in these trucks so when I do my conversions I'll probably have to file most of it off too. If you decide to use 36" wheels you supposedly have to file the brake shoes on the trucks so the wheels roll freely.
Informative, thank you. Kadee could have made this a lot easier by not having all the extraneous details, ribs and webbings to remove. Why not just make it a drop-in instead of all the modifications?!
I have a Rivarossi Dinner car and I attempted to to remove the truck and broke the pin is there anything that I can do to fix it? I can send you a picture if that would help the coupler has a diff coupling system
Great video! I too followed your directions and everything worked beautifully. The couplers match fine car to car however when aligned with “coupler standard” the 505 is too high and also is higher when coupled to a locomotive. Any thoughts about how to lower the coupler height?
Hi Frank - you’ll likely need an overset shank coupler that drops the knuckle by .050”. These come in 3 shank lengths (i.e. how far the coupler extends/sticks-out, so you’ll need to know that as well. Kadee’s website has a chart that gives these dimensions. Hint: if you’re going to install diaphragms between your cars, a little extra shank length may be a good thing. Hope This Helps you….
John Bellucci, I thought you were dead. Didn't you die of a drug overdose? Reincarnated as a model railroader. Just don't throw those old plastic couplers away. They can always be used in a gondola for scrap. I model the Central of Georgia railroad since I used to live in Jonesboro, GA. I bought a couple of Atlas GP-7s from another modeler in the Central of Georgia livery and he had never run them. When I got them they looked brand new and absolutely no wheel wear. I got them for $75.00 each. I've never paid more than $120.00 for an engine. I started collecting HO gauge back in the middle 80's but never really thought about modeling any certain railroad. Now things have changed and I'm getting an Atlas RS-3 in the Central of Georgia livery for Christmas along with a Kadee boxcar in the CofG livery. I also just got my very first brass diesel, a Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44 in the CofG livery. Back in the 80's I mostly bought Athearn engines and I hope the Atlas engines will perform as well as the Athearn ones as they are quite robust and keep on rolling. I recently started collecting Lionel 027 as I got the very same Lionel train set I had when I was a kid from my cousin. My train set got left behind in the attic when we moved from Hephzibah, GA. I couldn't believe my cousin had the exact same one and I sure was happy to get that set. I've now collected enough to make a 027 layout with 4 steam engines and 1 Texas Special diesel F-3. I think I have a couple dozen rolling stock to go with what I have. Oh yeah, I'm a DC guy only as I hate the sound of HO gauge DCC. I will probably end up weathering my brand new engines. I just don't like seeing pristine engines/rolling stock on the layout. Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN
loved the video, I have several HW to upgrade, and some without the six wheel trucks. Do you know of anyone that carries these six wheel truck for the AHM/Rivarossi, I tried Bowser but they're all sold out, I'd appreciate the help if you could, thanks.
I did the same thing to my Rivarossi Southern Crescent Limited coaches, but I body mounted Kadee couplers and I believe they were shelf head whisker couplers. The new #148 whisker couplers replace the old #5's and are much easier to deal with. Couplers that are mounted to the trucks are called talgo trucks and I hate 'em. I always cut them off, body mount Kadee's and turn the trucks around if they don't hit anything underneath the model. I think I had to add some shims between the coupler box (draft box) and the chassis as the couplers were a little high. Only 2 ways to adjust coupler height; either raise or lower the coupler or raise/lower the trucks. Raising or lowering trucks can be done several different ways. Sanding off some of the bolsters or adding a washer between the trucks and bolsters. Cheers from eastern TN
This is a fantastic instructional video. I had been putting off this project for 8 Rivarossi Burlington Northern passenger cars and I finally tackled it today. It was actually quite easy following this video. I was able to finish each pair of trucks in 15-20 minutes.
Nicely done! Beside learning a lot I really enjoyed it!
Thanks for the video. The reason you have to file that stuff off the bolsters is the height without filing is for when you replace the wheels with 36" wheels. I found that Bachmann 33" wheels roll very nicely in these trucks so when I do my conversions I'll probably have to file most of it off too. If you decide to use 36" wheels you supposedly have to file the brake shoes on the trucks so the wheels roll freely.
Thank you very much! I followed you all the way through and did two simultaneously with perfect results!! Cheers!
+Eric De Gray Happy to hear this was of help for you! That's why I made it! ;)
Small needle nose vice grip locked on the screwdriver would be a bit easier I bet. Should pop in some diaphrams on them. Nice engine, and details.
Informative, thank you. Kadee could have made this a lot easier by not having all the extraneous details, ribs and webbings to remove. Why not just make it a drop-in instead of all the modifications?!
thanks ., I have now converted my B&O cars ,very helpful.
I have a Rivarossi Dinner car and I attempted to to remove the truck and broke the pin is there anything that I can do to fix it?
I can send you a picture if that would help the coupler has a diff coupling system
Great how to video!
Great video! I too followed your directions and everything worked beautifully. The couplers match fine car to car however when aligned with “coupler standard” the 505 is too high and also is higher when coupled to a locomotive. Any thoughts about how to lower the coupler height?
Hi Frank - you’ll likely need an overset shank coupler that drops the knuckle by .050”. These come in 3 shank lengths (i.e. how far the coupler extends/sticks-out, so you’ll need to know that as well. Kadee’s website has a chart that gives these dimensions. Hint: if you’re going to install diaphragms between your cars, a little extra shank length may be a good thing. Hope This Helps you….
What size wheel sets are you using? 33” or 36”?
Could u make a video on how to convert couplers on a Rivarossi NYC Hudson to ez mate couplers
Nice work! Americans say KEY DEE, and British say KHA DEE :-)
John Bellucci, I thought you were dead. Didn't you die of a drug overdose? Reincarnated as a model railroader. Just don't throw those old plastic couplers away. They can always be used in a gondola for scrap. I model the Central of Georgia railroad since I used to live in Jonesboro, GA. I bought a couple of Atlas GP-7s from another modeler in the Central of Georgia livery and he had never run them. When I got them they looked brand new and absolutely no wheel wear. I got them for $75.00 each. I've never paid more than $120.00 for an engine. I started collecting HO gauge back in the middle 80's but never really thought about modeling any certain railroad. Now things have changed and I'm getting an Atlas RS-3 in the Central of Georgia livery for Christmas along with a Kadee boxcar in the CofG livery. I also just got my very first brass diesel, a Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44 in the CofG livery. Back in the 80's I mostly bought Athearn engines and I hope the Atlas engines will perform as well as the Athearn ones as they are quite robust and keep on rolling. I recently started collecting Lionel 027 as I got the very same Lionel train set I had when I was a kid from my cousin. My train set got left behind in the attic when we moved from Hephzibah, GA. I couldn't believe my cousin had the exact same one and I sure was happy to get that set. I've now collected enough to make a 027 layout with 4 steam engines and 1 Texas Special diesel F-3. I think I have a couple dozen rolling stock to go with what I have. Oh yeah, I'm a DC guy only as I hate the sound of HO gauge DCC. I will probably end up weathering my brand new engines. I just don't like seeing pristine engines/rolling stock on the layout. Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN
loved the video, I have several HW to upgrade, and some without the six wheel trucks. Do you know of anyone that carries these six wheel truck for the AHM/Rivarossi, I tried Bowser but they're all sold out, I'd appreciate the help if you could, thanks.
www.ihc-hobby.com/product/3254
www.modeltrainstuff.com/HO-Scale-Couplers-Trucks-Wheelsets-s/1452.htm?searching=Y&sort=3&cat=1452&show=30&page=4
www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?cat_s=URI&p=4
www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?cat_s=URI&p=5
www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?cat_s=URI&p=8