Directing the Split when Riving Chestnut Laths

How to stop the split from running off when splitting logs into laths in a riving brake. These chestnut laths are destined for trellis-work on the front of a traditional Basque chicken house. Splitting laths is preferable to sawing them for various reasons - it's cheaper, it involves less energy (rip sawing by hand or by machine), they're stronger (because the split follows the grain) and they shed water better (because the wood fibres are not cut) so therefore should last longer. They also end up looking pretty good.

[@markmckenzie3072]

Thanks very much chaps. I've just followed your techniques to successfully rive some willow which had a fair few knots. By taking things much more slowly than my previous attempts I have some useable legs for interior benches. I'm very impressed with your ability to rive down to such thin strips.

[@mrcheese3981]

Great! Really glad our video has been some help to you.

[@MaineMotman]

Niiiiice! I've been wondering whilst using a froe the mechanics of wich direction i should be pushing the froe. I will be building a Wraithe break too in the future

[@mrcheese3981]

Thanks! I've since done a fair bit of basket making, and the same principle applies when splitting stems such as brambles or hazel poles with a knife.
I've never heard of a Wraithe break and can't find it on the Internet - are you sure you have the spelling right? Mine is called a riving brake, although it may have different regional names.

[@WoodchuckNorris.8o]

thank you for this instructional!!

[@mrcheese3981]

It's a pleasure - I hope it helps!

[@richswain7154]

Excellent and educational.....never too old to learn a new skill. I like you break too....that would work in the space I have available. Thanks! Rich

[@mrcheese3981]

Thank you Rich. It's great to know this video helped someone! Hugh and I learnt all this by trial and error, and it occurred to us that it would be worth posting a video to pass on important little details that are usually brushed over or not mentioned at all. These are dying or dead skills which are hopefully making a comeback thanks to the Internet.
Good luck with your project, and let us know how it turns out.
Sacha

[@richswain7154]

@@mrcheese3981 Hi Sacha, the project is coming along well, Ive now had a few peg cutters made up, the shave horse is made, my collection of vintage hand tools is pretty much complete......just looking for a side axe now. I'm making gate hurdles and lawn rakes down in Devon......a great way to spend retirement. Thank you again.

[@mrcheese3981]

@@richswain7154 Brilliant! Thanks for keeping us informed. I used to live down there too (Colyton in East Devon), which is where I first started playing around with timber framing. Enjoy your retirement!

[@donnarogers7732]

There are No Chestnut trees in America any longer. A disease wiped out every chestnut tree in America. Hard to believe but true. Antique Chestnut furniture is outrageously Expensive if you can find any. UK you are very lucky to have your chestnut trees

[@daducky411]

Very nice.
Are there additional considerations for splitting long (8 foot), thin x 2×0.75" laths?
Thanks

[@daducky411]

Oops, i think the desored thickness would 8mm rather than 0.75inch.

[@mrcheese3981]

@@daducky411 It depends on the diameter of your logs. It's not essential to split them on the quarter, but then the outer ones would be less stable and more likely to warp. If you do the same thing but with logs of say 18 - 20 cm diameter, you can split wedges of 8 - 10 cm width, split off the inside feather edge to leave a 5 cm width and then either further split the wedge to make it parallel or else take it down with the draw knife.

[@MaxSafeheaD]

Does it make a difference which way you split the log - direction of growth vs against the direction of growth?

[@mrcheese3981]

Not as far as I'm aware, but it's a good question. I think I probably tend to start the split at the bottom end, but I don't have a logical reason for doing so.

[@Tome4kkkk]

@@mrcheese3981 Resolution, as youngsters would say! :) It's easier to watch the development of the split on a bigger piece and adjust accordingly. Also, thethinner the piece, the more predictable the splitting is. It's just a matter of granularity of the material. A chestnut piece 4 cm in diameter might spit your froe right out the side, to give an extreme example :)

[@woodlandsedge3456]

Can you do this with green wood

[@charlesleblanc6638]

For sure you can.

[@davecloude75]

How long have you been doing this

[@mrcheese3981]

When we posted this video it was after a few attempts, but was a technique neither of us had tried before. Virgins in other words :)

[@freddyfrogamerairforce1926]

when its that size its easier to split using axe and wedge