You did an awesome work at reverse engineering this BMS! Thanks. I did the reprogramming with a PICkit4 and MPLAB IPE 6.10 on a V7 battery (SV10) and it did the trick!
I thought I read the MPLAB software wipes the Program (firmware) - or maybe just for PICkit 3? Or is it the setting "Erase All before program" to uncheck ?
Purchase a red flashing DC62 junk battery and rewrite it Unlocked successfully, but immediately locked with red lamp from blue lamp Correct the voltage balance of the cell with a radio-controlled charger and rewrite the EPROM again. To blink blue of cell balance collapse After connecting it to the charger for a few hours, it was cured. Thank you
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing! I have worked on a couple Dyson's and ended up putting a M18 on one of mine. I wanted to come back around to see how hard it would be to connect to the micro. I never did get back to it. This will be great information for future problems because it seems Dyson does this with many of it's battery packs.
Thrifty Tool Shed I was thinking about converting mine to work with M18 batteries. How did it perform with the lower voltage (1 cell less) from M18? Much appreciated if you could let me know so I don't waste time if it will be under powered. I would assume that max setting would still have decent power, although less than normal.
@@gordthor5351 It still has great power, but it will shut down quickly on Max. I use the large 5Ah and above to get more run time. I did mention in the video that the Kobalt or Flex 24V packs would be better for sure, it just is not what I use myself.
@@secondlife1970 Yeah well, first I overlooked the SHOW MORE button.😬 And yesterday I found out that my stone age programmer doesn't support this PIC, so today I ordered a Pickit3, a € 24 well spent, considering I snatched a V6 with 3 packs from a recycling collection bin @ my local supermarket. Still have to see though, whether the cells are in good nick, I've charged one pack, and the voltages are well balanced, but that doesn't say all now, does it? So the next step will be building a wee spot welder, I'm afraid of. BTW, there are higher cap cells, but from what I've read, they deliver less current than the original ones, is this correct?
@@secondlife1970 Weird things are happening, I posted a reply, but it seems to have vanished! I bricked my pack with Mplab IDE X 6.00, so I installed IPE beta 1.51, but it doesn't remotely look like yours, so which version are you using?
EXCELLENT - Some clarification please... I just read the EEVblog forum thread, but one thing is a bit unclear. There was a lot of different BMS and pack versions discussed there, and I got myself lost. I have 2 packs here: a SV03 (perhaps a V6 Slim?) and a DC59 (some other V6 model?) - the part numbers are very confusing! I also noted somebody had a non-potted V6 BMS in the EEVblog thread, which was different again? Have you established exactly which Packs/BMS Versions can be reset from the reset of bit 1E?
I believe everything that has the same type of interface header and it's based on the PIC 32 is susceptible to accept reset by changing the eeprom data.
@@johncoops6897 Sorry for the late answer, the same location as here, they all seem to have the same eeprom type map, at least from what I tried until now. I believe they kept the same software under the PIC32 hood.
Re: Programming pin headers. Why not use the little claw "Test Hook Clip" thingies, so less (or no) silicone needs removing and you get a much better connection?
Thanks for great video! What about 30 red light blinks - is it same issue or different one? Just replaced cells on the battery and all of them looks to be in balance (~3.55V each).
Hello, Everything that's based on a PIC 16LF1847 should be a similar system. It should use a similar eeprom memory map, then the reset should be possible.
Hey Ivan, I just received 30 red flashes on my rebuilt pack. One cell was down to 0, the rest were fine at 3.6V. This is after I had replaced the cells in this pack with new ones following a 32 red flash error on the original cells. I will update here if the same fix works, and I'm expecting it will, since it just seems like the same BMS safety lockout feature due to compromised cells. Update: it worked!
Good Work ⭐ Could you work your magic on the DJI Goggles 2 battery!!!??? Main drawback of the DJI Goggles 2 system is the poor battery capacity. I tried to upgrade the cells to larger ones but the BMS bricked the unit! I expect a similar solution to the Dyson may work.
@@secondlife1970 managed to get a original replacement from dyson for a V6 that arrived dead going again. No clue why they don’t test stuff before shipping
Hi, this is an awesome video. Many thanks for sharing. I have a question here regarding the behavior of v7 bms firmware: does it require a load or grounding to activate BMS? Why didn’t I get any voltage from the two output pins while the trigger button (a normally close switch) is pressed? Thanks in advance.
Really cool stuff here. I changed out original 18650 and put brand new ones. All balanced. But I noticed it had issues. If I do this would that resolve my issue. Thanks a million
Hello, sorry I do not know all the answers, if it's the same Microchip version it should work. I do not have any news on this dyson topic, it's just working and not needed to reset again since I made the video. Not sure what other problems your BMS may have, maybe some liquid damage?
@@secondlife1970, I have software. Already two years. The last update contains diagnostics without disassembling the battery. ruclips.net/video/j9Iz4iLyELQ/видео.html
@@jajefan123456789 thanks. it's not only me, it was a team effort, I was focused on result without too much work. Tinfever pushed to the upper limit. Congrats to him.
What an amazing skill and knowledge! Can you please do something for Hoover Onepwr 4H Battery Red light flash issue? All cells are 3.492 / 3.482. Except I had last cell at 3.125 Which manually charged to 3.492 but battery still wont charge and shows 1st and 3rd LED only and charging dock flashes Red. :(
Sorry, I am not familiar with your Hoover and the BMS model. I only try to fix the things I find in recycling, no Hoover onepwr yet... Try on other forums, maybe someone found a solution. Good luck.
I can give you an example: www.aliexpress.com/item/4001283158851.html, this is just a suggestion. Look for reviews and good feedback of the buyers. Please do your search also, you may find better price-delivery options.
You are such an awesome person i can't believe it... there are only a few people that I've found that do these kinda things here on RUclips one Russian who doesn't share his special firmware and this Chinese person who also keeps it a secret ruclips.net/video/CZa9gpJa9u0/видео.html you are so transparent and helpful, god bless you brother!!
@@GoldenGlacier www.aliexpress.com/i/32930504571.html This is a discharger/balancer, cheap. Balancing chargers are more expensive. With this one you can first charge the pack manually and then use the discharger to balance-it.
Sorry to keep you waiting, I do not monitor often the comments. Not sure what version of BMS you may have, my experience is limited to those models you see in the video. Some other custom firmware are on the net. Check if they cover your exact model, it may not have the pic processor.
@secondlife1970 , I appreciate your replies. Is there a list of the ic's that work with the Pickit3? And in your opinion will this procedure work with 3rd party Dyson battery packs. Thanks for all you do.
Hello, your posts are really nice and useful 👍. I have a question for you. I have a Bosch Athlet 25.2, it stopped charging after I changed the batteries. I made the necessary connections on the chip for the locked Epprom software and completed the programming process. But the batteries still won't charge! When programming the chip, do all the battery charging cables on the motherboard have to be connected? Can you make a video for this? or if you can help me here i would be glad :)
Hello, I am not familiar with that model and also the BMS looks to be very different than Dyson. If that Bosh BMS locks in a similar way, than you need to keep the new and pre-charged ( 3.5V each) batteries on, so the BMS will see them as "OK". I only make videos with the things I fix, usually things I find in recycling or what other people throw away on the street.
Hello, Thank you, it's work fine on my v6 battery. In normal mode everything work good but when I start the boost mode it only work 5 seconde and the battery start lighting blue... maybe they have somebody to write in EEPROM data ?
Hello Tony, that looks like end of life for your battery, the turbo mode cannot be sustained for longer time due to increased cells internal resistance. Plan for changing the cells/or battery completely.
Hi , lot of thanks for these explanations! I must say I never used such a device. Only 2 questions : Is it so simple as you show : simply connect the Pickit as it comes (plug and play?) to the computer without any other preliminary operation ( I suppose minimum install a software), then connect to the board , so the device analyses the included FW , and you have immediately an access to the read/write page for changing the datas (00 7F) ? (Do we receive minimal instructions for install and use with the device?) And are these values valid for every other Dyson batteries (V8, V10 etc) or only for V6? If not, how can we find the specific values for each ones? with correction at the same place on the page ?.....it's a real tempting operation. Thanks for your anwer. Michel
Hello Michel, sorry for the late answer. If you follow the instructions in the video should be fine. There are some more details in the eevblog forum where all this was starting. I cannot document every little step, would be too much. Those values are valid for every Dyson battery that uses that PIC controller chip. Other models use different battery management electronics so this would not apply. I do not know and I am not interested about other models. Cheers.
@@secondlife1970 Hi, lot of thanks for your answer and your disponibility! For my V10 I just risked to buy a "red" batterie for 8 dollars , the lotterie.. Tested, all cells were still perfectly balanced and internal R only 30 milliohms !... I mean it was used at Max with almost completely discharged battery. So voltage falls for a very short time under 3 volts because no more discharge amps, and the "sheet" Dyson BMS locks down definitively. I simply changed it with a BMS from Ali and the battery runs again like new. This definitive lock down is a pity...and a robbery. Is your little volt tester/balancer reliable and secure with good balance? Not too warm during balancing? Perhaps better to put it on a fan by use?... It stops after balance or is it necessary to stop it manually?l .I would have your meaning before I buy one. I think it can be very useful. Thanks. Friendly, Michel.
This didn't work on mine. I found out later that the former owner ran his vacuum on max the whole time. Already went through 6 battery packs since he owned the Vacuum since 2015. Yes always dumped the bin cleaned the filters ( not properly). The issue was clogged chambers in the cyclone unit with microscopic dust that has gotten clogged over time after normal use and running a pulsing vacuum from time to time which caused load and battery strain. The washable filter had a small crack and dust was halfway up the tube in the washable filter, which I think was never replaced, so I cleaned the chambers and found a bargain Machine at a flea market for parts with a decent battery for $15. Circuit board looked good on the old battery, but it would not reset. Cells were even across the board. Circuit board may have an undetectable small short. That's what another technician told me.
Nice work! I found this on a forum and replied to it asking for details, details that you have listed here. Unfortunately my reply was moved due to “necroposting”. The thread was from April 🙄 I guess admin wouldn’t rather police old threads than lock them as solved. Millennials
Hello sir , rn im having this kind of problem with dyson v8 , but in my country pickit not available or cost almost the same as the new battery for replacement , do u have any other alternatives like using esp or arduino?
Sorry you are not able to find the pickit 3 tool, it's very cheap from Aliexpress if you can get-it. Here too the original is very expensive. No other way to access-it that I know. Regards
What can I do with battery from V9 after replace cells? Working well but there is no charging. Leds blinking normaly but current from adapter is 0.00A.
Sorry I do not have that model and do not know the answer. Safest way to replace any cells is with ghosting, always keep a normal cell voltage on the BMS, like add a secondary cell while removing the original one. They have to be at the same voltage for ghosting to work.
Sorry, I do not have a DC35 battery therefore I cannot make a video. They may be similar, based on PIC 32 platform, or not. If I will ever find one in recycling, I will try-it. I have seen videos with DC35 and they seem to be different bms type, not sure on what type of chip.
Hello, I believe no, laptops have more sophisticated interfaces, encrypted, I have some videos showing how to do-it just by recharging directly the battery cells.
@@secondlife1970 Thanks for reply, yes I already used it and it was working till I wanted to charge batter. it 8 time red flashes which means charging protection. I also seen in the forum some people having the same issue. Is there a quick fix for this issue without adding resistor to the charging?
@@therogman7485 when you mention you already used I assume you have read the disclaimer, there is no turning back to stock Dyson FW. Despite the " lock" feature, I appreciate the original FW, it is robust. The custom FW adds fancy lights codes that I personally do not need. Changing the battery on a stock FW could be easy, no need to reset if you do not wake up the BMS in the process. Try to find the answers on the custom FW support, I have no idea what it's the issue. Sorry.
Hi, Excellent video! I wonder if you have some time to help answer a few quick questions and fight this programmed E-WASTE!!! 🙏 1: How did you know which location to rewrite? (Also you say location 1E in description but video looks like 9E which is correct please?) 2: Also, for the PICKit device, how did you know which wires go to which pins? 3: The SV12 (dyson V10) has 8 pins, all unmarked. how would I know which PICKit pins to where? Thank you 🙏
Using MPLAB IPE, told it only to program EE and switched off "Erase all before programming" and it seems to have blanked the micro. I now have a very dead battery pack that won't light up at all. This is unreal...
Hello, why did you use MPLab for this particular situation? If you read carefully you can see PICkit3 programmer app is clearly listed in the description. There was a reason for that, you just found-it! Anyway, there is a custom Dyson FW you can load, you will recover. Search for it, it will unbrick your pack.
@@secondlife1970 Because I've used many different programmers for as long as I can remember and never had one where you tell it not to blank a chip and it still does! IPE seems to have been simplified so much that the normal functions you'd expect as an engineer are hard to find or missing, you have to switch in to advanced mode just to be able to search for them. Yes, I uploaded the 3rd party firmware, which defeated the purpose of what I was trying to do as your guide on fixing the red light flashing after exchanging cells was just perfect. Just to add, I did a dummy run before before letting it reprogram the EE so that I could see if it was trying to erase the chip and I thought it was ok. It wasn't connected to the chip so obviously it failed, but afterwards when looking again for where there may be extra settings and found one where it leaves the existing main code alone. It's where you can tell it to program the EE only too so maybe I should have seen it - just a poorly written bit of software when you can't tick and untick what you want done easily.
@@johnsim3722 thanks for the extensive details, it's a good lesson for other to avoid MPLAB in this particular situation. I know Dyson FW is solid and once I have to change the cells I can fire up PicKit to reset. Cheers.
@@secondlife1970 Interestingly even after using the 3rd party software I still can't get the pack to work. New cells installed. I've done this with a couple of batteries (the first was my own, the others bought knowing they were faulty). My first attempt the battery still flashed blue when you pressed the button, but wouldn't then drive the Dyson at all, just a quick puff then flashing blue (as I remember). When trying to charge it was orange with the occasional blue flash. Couldn't find out why and hence trying to change other batteries. Second battery went to flashing red. Tried another which did the same. I'm got two new lots of cells and have tried on about 5 boards and not one has been successful. The cells all register about 3.8-3.9 V so I don't think there's anything wrong with them. Can't find guides on the meanings of the Dyson flashing either, not from what I've seen on the packs anyway.
Hello again, the symptom you're mentioning is for batteries that are not capable of delivering the right amperage. This means around 10A continuous current. Look into the cells datasheet to see if they are rated for 15A or more maximum discharge current. All the power tools ( including vacuum ) have high amp rated cells. High internal resistance render them useless for this type of application. Connect the Dyson directly on the battery wires and see if it's actually working. Measure how much voltage drop you have. Too much will trigger BMS protection. Cheers.
It works. I received the pickit , balanced the cells manually (one was low) , wired up the PICkit using the wiring diagram here ( ruclips.net/video/dwyA5rBjncg/видео.html ) , followed this video and changed value at location 1E from 9E to 00 and now the battery works again perfectly. Wow. ( I used 6 toothpicks wedged in and a penknife to open the battery - took 2 minutes. If you look carefully you can see SLIGHT depressions in the plastic where the 6 lugs are ) Do not use MPLAB IDE or IPE it will wipe the firmware and you will need custom firmware from the same guy in the link with the wiring diagram.
You did an awesome work at reverse engineering this BMS! Thanks.
I did the reprogramming with a PICkit4 and MPLAB IPE 6.10 on a V7 battery (SV10) and it did the trick!
I thought I read the MPLAB software wipes the Program (firmware) - or maybe just for PICkit 3? Or is it the setting "Erase All before program" to uncheck ?
Please follow as in the video and do not rush, if you miss to do EEprom only you will erase the chip.
Happy it worked, it's a year already since I did that. I did not reversed engineered :) , I was just creative!
@@daxio1485 I talked about MPLAB IPE, which is *NOT* MPLAD IDE! These are very different pieces of software.
Can i do that with ST-link v2
Purchase a red flashing DC62 junk battery and rewrite it
Unlocked successfully, but immediately locked with red lamp from blue lamp
Correct the voltage balance of the cell with a radio-controlled charger and rewrite the EPROM again.
To blink blue of cell balance collapse
After connecting it to the charger for a few hours, it was cured.
Thank you
Happy it worked for you, it needs to be balanced, and above 3.2V for each cell for reset to stay.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing! I have worked on a couple Dyson's and ended up putting a M18 on one of mine. I wanted to come back around to see how hard it would be to connect to the micro. I never did get back to it. This will be great information for future problems because it seems Dyson does this with many of it's battery packs.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
Thrifty Tool Shed I was thinking about converting mine to work with M18 batteries. How did it perform with the lower voltage (1 cell less) from M18? Much appreciated if you could let me know so I don't waste time if it will be under powered. I would assume that max setting would still have decent power, although less than normal.
@@gordthor5351
It still has great power, but it will shut down quickly on Max. I use the large 5Ah and above to get more run time. I did mention in the video that the Kobalt or Flex 24V packs would be better for sure, it just is not what I use myself.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, much appreciated. I have a couple 5Ah batteries.
My hat off to you, sir!
Will post once I've fixed it.
Happy you found the pinout by yourself, make sure you do not write in the "Program area", eeprom only.
@@secondlife1970 Yeah well, first I overlooked the SHOW MORE button.😬
And yesterday I found out that my stone age programmer doesn't support this PIC, so today I ordered a Pickit3, a € 24 well spent, considering I snatched a V6 with 3 packs from a recycling collection bin @ my local supermarket.
Still have to see though, whether the cells are in good nick, I've charged one pack, and the voltages are well balanced, but that doesn't say all now, does it?
So the next step will be building a wee spot welder, I'm afraid of.
BTW, there are higher cap cells, but from what I've read, they deliver less current than the original ones, is this correct?
@@secondlife1970 Weird things are happening, I posted a reply, but it seems to have vanished!
I bricked my pack with Mplab IDE X 6.00, so I installed IPE beta 1.51, but it doesn't remotely look like yours, so which version are you using?
@@cococam3411 can you please read the description? the link to the app is there... On Microchip website.
EXCELLENT - Some clarification please...
I just read the EEVblog forum thread, but one thing is a bit unclear. There was a lot of different BMS and pack versions discussed there, and I got myself lost.
I have 2 packs here: a SV03 (perhaps a V6 Slim?) and a DC59 (some other V6 model?) - the part numbers are very confusing! I also noted somebody had a non-potted V6 BMS in the EEVblog thread, which was different again?
Have you established exactly which Packs/BMS Versions can be reset from the reset of bit 1E?
I believe everything that has the same type of interface header and it's based on the PIC 32 is susceptible to accept reset by changing the eeprom data.
@@secondlife1970 - I meant which bits are used to store the lock status.
@@johncoops6897 Sorry for the late answer, the same location as here, they all seem to have the same eeprom type map, at least from what I tried until now. I believe they kept the same software under the PIC32 hood.
Re: Programming pin headers. Why not use the little claw "Test Hook Clip" thingies, so less (or no) silicone needs removing and you get a much better connection?
Sure, by all means one can use a different connection method.
Sounds great. Does that work on the V8 as well?
Well done thanks my friend! Save my dyson v6
Happy it worked for you. Thanks for sharing your feedback.
Well done! Thanks for sharing.
I was interested in your video, can we do this programming in v8?
Thanks for great video! What about 30 red light blinks - is it same issue or different one? Just replaced cells on the battery and all of them looks to be in balance (~3.55V each).
Hello, Everything that's based on a PIC 16LF1847 should be a similar system. It should use a similar eeprom memory map, then the reset should be possible.
Hey Ivan, I just received 30 red flashes on my rebuilt pack. One cell was down to 0, the rest were fine at 3.6V. This is after I had replaced the cells in this pack with new ones following a 32 red flash error on the original cells. I will update here if the same fix works, and I'm expecting it will, since it just seems like the same BMS safety lockout feature due to compromised cells.
Update: it worked!
You did a great job. I have a v11 battery. I set the batteries to the same value, but no light comes on. Do you have any work on this?
No, sorry. I do not experiment on Dyson lately. There are so may other brands out there.. :)
Good Work ⭐
Could you work your magic on the DJI Goggles 2 battery!!!??? Main drawback of the DJI Goggles 2 system is the poor battery capacity. I tried to upgrade the cells to larger ones but the BMS bricked the unit! I expect a similar solution to the Dyson may work.
Very good job
Thank you so much 😀
Totally awesome!
Glad you think so! Thanks!
@@secondlife1970 managed to get a original replacement from dyson for a V6 that arrived dead going again. No clue why they don’t test stuff before shipping
Hi, this is an awesome video. Many thanks for sharing.
I have a question here regarding the behavior of v7 bms firmware:
does it require a load or grounding to activate BMS? Why didn’t I get any voltage from the two output pins while the trigger button (a normally close switch) is pressed?
Thanks in advance.
Hello, SV10 V7 requires a magnet to activate the output, see in the CV10 V7 video, it's on the side. Hope it helps.
Wow deep respect. Incredible knowledge is needed to do what you are doing. *sub
You're too nice, I did not knew much before making the video :) . It's a common effort from Eevblog
Really cool stuff here. I changed out original 18650 and put brand new ones. All balanced. But I noticed it had issues. If I do this would that resolve my issue. Thanks a million
Hello, sorry I do not know all the answers, if it's the same Microchip version it should work. I do not have any news on this dyson topic, it's just working and not needed to reset again since I made the video. Not sure what other problems your BMS may have, maybe some liquid damage?
@secondlife1970 got it, just for the sake of it would it be OK to send you an image of the BMS? Through Google drive? If not I understand
how'd you narrow it down to these locations in hex?
Nobody has the software and I was comparing the eeprom map of a working pack with the failed one. It took me a while but I found-it.
@@secondlife1970, I have software. Already two years. The last update contains diagnostics without disassembling the battery.
ruclips.net/video/j9Iz4iLyELQ/видео.html
@@secondlife1970 an actual legend. thanks for your work!
@@jajefan123456789 thanks. it's not only me, it was a team effort, I was focused on result without too much work. Tinfever pushed to the upper limit. Congrats to him.
What an amazing skill and knowledge! Can you please do something for Hoover Onepwr 4H Battery Red light flash issue? All cells are 3.492 / 3.482. Except I had last cell at 3.125 Which manually charged to 3.492 but battery still wont charge and shows 1st and 3rd LED only and charging dock flashes Red. :(
Sorry, I am not familiar with your Hoover and the BMS model. I only try to fix the things I find in recycling, no Hoover onepwr yet... Try on other forums, maybe someone found a solution. Good luck.
Got any AliExpress links to the gear you're using? Thank you very much
I can give you an example: www.aliexpress.com/item/4001283158851.html, this is just a suggestion. Look for reviews and good feedback of the buyers. Please do your search also, you may find better price-delivery options.
You are such an awesome person i can't believe it... there are only a few people that I've found that do these kinda things here on RUclips one Russian who doesn't share his special firmware and this Chinese person who also keeps it a secret ruclips.net/video/CZa9gpJa9u0/видео.html you are so transparent and helpful, god bless you brother!!
I'm also interested in your balance charger, i looked everywhere and only found smarter ones for around 50-80dollars. Thank you very much
@@GoldenGlacier www.aliexpress.com/i/32930504571.html
This is a discharger/balancer, cheap. Balancing chargers are more expensive. With this one you can first charge the pack manually and then use the discharger to balance-it.
Thank you so much for your help, looking forward for more videos from you!!
My dyson battery BMS only has four holes. Not 5. What can I do? Waiting patiently for your reply. Thanks
Also will this work with a pickit2? I ordered wrong one. Bummer
Sorry to keep you waiting, I do not monitor often the comments. Not sure what version of BMS you may have, my experience is limited to those models you see in the video. Some other custom firmware are on the net. Check if they cover your exact model, it may not have the pic processor.
Unfortunately only pickit 3 works with this version of Microchip IC
@secondlife1970 , I appreciate your replies. Is there a list of the ic's that work with the Pickit3? And in your opinion will this procedure work with 3rd party Dyson battery packs. Thanks for all you do.
Hello, your posts are really nice and useful 👍. I have a question for you. I have a Bosch Athlet 25.2, it stopped charging after I changed the batteries. I made the necessary connections on the chip for the locked Epprom software and completed the programming process. But the batteries still won't charge! When programming the chip, do all the battery charging cables on the motherboard have to be connected? Can you make a video for this? or if you can help me here i would be glad :)
Hello, I am not familiar with that model and also the BMS looks to be very different than Dyson. If that Bosh BMS locks in a similar way, than you need to keep the new and pre-charged ( 3.5V each) batteries on, so the BMS will see them as "OK". I only make videos with the things I fix, usually things I find in recycling or what other people throw away on the street.
@@secondlife1970 Thank you very much for your answer. So how can I find the programming tool and chip software you used in the video for Dyson?
Hello,
Thank you, it's work fine on my v6 battery.
In normal mode everything work good but when I start the boost mode it only work 5 seconde and the battery start lighting blue... maybe they have somebody to write in EEPROM data ?
Hello Tony, that looks like end of life for your battery, the turbo mode cannot be sustained for longer time due to increased cells internal resistance. Plan for changing the cells/or battery completely.
Hi , lot of thanks for these explanations! I must say I never used such a device. Only 2 questions :
Is it so simple as you show : simply connect the Pickit as it comes (plug and play?) to the computer without any other preliminary operation ( I suppose minimum install a software), then connect to the board , so the device analyses the included FW , and you have immediately an access to the read/write page for changing the datas (00 7F) ? (Do we receive minimal instructions for install and use with the device?)
And are these values valid for every other Dyson batteries (V8, V10 etc) or only for V6? If not, how can we find the specific values for each ones? with correction at the same place on the page ?.....it's a real tempting operation. Thanks for your anwer.
Michel
Hello Michel, sorry for the late answer. If you follow the instructions in the video should be fine. There are some more details in the eevblog forum where all this was starting. I cannot document every little step, would be too much. Those values are valid for every Dyson battery that uses that PIC controller chip. Other models use different battery management electronics so this would not apply. I do not know and I am not interested about other models. Cheers.
@@secondlife1970 Hi, lot of thanks for your answer and your disponibility!
For my V10 I just risked to buy a "red" batterie for 8 dollars , the lotterie.. Tested, all cells were still perfectly balanced and internal R only 30 milliohms !... I mean it was used at Max with almost completely discharged battery. So voltage falls for a very short time under 3 volts because no more discharge amps, and the "sheet" Dyson BMS locks down definitively. I simply changed it with a BMS from Ali and the battery runs again like new. This definitive lock down is a pity...and a robbery.
Is your little volt tester/balancer reliable and secure with good balance? Not too warm during balancing? Perhaps better to put it on a fan by use?... It stops after balance or is it necessary to stop it manually?l .I would have your meaning before I buy one. I think it can be very useful. Thanks.
Friendly, Michel.
This didn't work on mine. I found out later that the former owner ran his vacuum on max the whole time. Already went through 6 battery packs since he owned the Vacuum since 2015. Yes always dumped the bin cleaned the filters ( not properly). The issue was clogged chambers in the cyclone unit with microscopic dust that has gotten clogged over time after normal use and running a pulsing vacuum from time to time which caused load and battery strain. The washable filter had a small crack and dust was halfway up the tube in the washable filter, which I think was never replaced, so I cleaned the chambers and found a bargain Machine at a flea market for parts with a decent battery for $15. Circuit board looked good on the old battery, but it would not reset. Cells were even across the board. Circuit board may have an undetectable small short. That's what another technician told me.
You may have to find another used battery and try again, maybe this you will use as a spare.
Nice work! I found this on a forum and replied to it asking for details, details that you have listed here. Unfortunately my reply was moved due to “necroposting”. The thread was from April 🙄 I guess admin wouldn’t rather police old threads than lock them as solved. Millennials
Yes, make sure you only do the changes in the Eeprom map. Cannot stress enough this. Balance all the cells at around 3.3V and reset.
Hello sir , rn im having this kind of problem with dyson v8 , but in my country pickit not available or cost almost the same as the new battery for replacement , do u have any other alternatives like using esp or arduino?
Sorry you are not able to find the pickit 3 tool, it's very cheap from Aliexpress if you can get-it. Here too the original is very expensive. No other way to access-it that I know. Regards
What can I do with battery from V9 after replace cells? Working well but there is no charging. Leds blinking normaly but current from adapter is 0.00A.
Sorry I do not have that model and do not know the answer. Safest way to replace any cells is with ghosting, always keep a normal cell voltage on the BMS, like add a secondary cell while removing the original one. They have to be at the same voltage for ghosting to work.
can you show me what tools and software do you use?
Thank you, Can you make video with Dyson DC35 battery?
Sorry, I do not have a DC35 battery therefore I cannot make a video. They may be similar, based on PIC 32 platform, or not. If I will ever find one in recycling, I will try-it. I have seen videos with DC35 and they seem to be different bms type, not sure on what type of chip.
Hi is pickit the same as a cp2112 smbus reset of a notebook battery, hack ? Thx
Hello, I believe no, laptops have more sophisticated interfaces, encrypted, I have some videos showing how to do-it just by recharging directly the battery cells.
hello
what to do when forget to uncheck program memory box
can you please help
Sorry, there is a backup plan, a separate software you can load into BMS instead, please search for it.
Does it also work with an ST-LINK V2 ? Does anyone knows?
Can i do that with st-link v2
Hi! Im forget untick Enable - program memory. Can you help me restore bms firmware on SV10?
I rewrote it when program memory enabled. Now light is gone on the bms so Is there a solution for this?
Hello, there is a custom FW to help you out in such case: github.com/tinfever/FU-Dyson-BMS
@@secondlife1970 Thanks for reply, yes I already used it and it was working till I wanted to charge batter. it 8 time red flashes which means charging protection. I also seen in the forum some people having the same issue. Is there a quick fix for this issue without adding resistor to the charging?
@@therogman7485 when you mention you already used I assume you have read the disclaimer, there is no turning back to stock Dyson FW. Despite the " lock" feature, I appreciate the original FW, it is robust. The custom FW adds fancy lights codes that I personally do not need. Changing the battery on a stock FW could be easy, no need to reset if you do not wake up the BMS in the process. Try to find the answers on the custom FW support, I have no idea what it's the issue. Sorry.
Hi, Excellent video! I wonder if you have some time to help answer a few quick questions and fight this programmed E-WASTE!!! 🙏
1: How did you know which location to rewrite? (Also you say location 1E in description but video looks like 9E which is correct please?)
2: Also, for the PICKit device, how did you know which wires go to which pins?
3: The SV12 (dyson V10) has 8 pins, all unmarked. how would I know which PICKit pins to where? Thank you 🙏
Is the V8 battery ok?
If it has the same communication header and it's based on the same PIC 32 it should be. try and see.
Using MPLAB IPE, told it only to program EE and switched off "Erase all before programming" and it seems to have blanked the micro. I now have a very dead battery pack that won't light up at all. This is unreal...
Hello, why did you use MPLab for this particular situation? If you read carefully you can see PICkit3 programmer app is clearly listed in the description. There was a reason for that, you just found-it! Anyway, there is a custom Dyson FW you can load, you will recover. Search for it, it will unbrick your pack.
@@secondlife1970 Because I've used many different programmers for as long as I can remember and never had one where you tell it not to blank a chip and it still does! IPE seems to have been simplified so much that the normal functions you'd expect as an engineer are hard to find or missing, you have to switch in to advanced mode just to be able to search for them.
Yes, I uploaded the 3rd party firmware, which defeated the purpose of what I was trying to do as your guide on fixing the red light flashing after exchanging cells was just perfect.
Just to add, I did a dummy run before before letting it reprogram the EE so that I could see if it was trying to erase the chip and I thought it was ok. It wasn't connected to the chip so obviously it failed, but afterwards when looking again for where there may be extra settings and found one where it leaves the existing main code alone. It's where you can tell it to program the EE only too so maybe I should have seen it - just a poorly written bit of software when you can't tick and untick what you want done easily.
@@johnsim3722 thanks for the extensive details, it's a good lesson for other to avoid MPLAB in this particular situation. I know Dyson FW is solid and once I have to change the cells I can fire up PicKit to reset.
Cheers.
@@secondlife1970 Interestingly even after using the 3rd party software I still can't get the pack to work. New cells installed. I've done this with a couple of batteries (the first was my own, the others bought knowing they were faulty).
My first attempt the battery still flashed blue when you pressed the button, but wouldn't then drive the Dyson at all, just a quick puff then flashing blue (as I remember). When trying to charge it was orange with the occasional blue flash. Couldn't find out why and hence trying to change other batteries.
Second battery went to flashing red. Tried another which did the same. I'm got two new lots of cells and have tried on about 5 boards and not one has been successful. The cells all register about 3.8-3.9 V so I don't think there's anything wrong with them.
Can't find guides on the meanings of the Dyson flashing either, not from what I've seen on the packs anyway.
Hello again, the symptom you're mentioning is for batteries that are not capable of delivering the right amperage.
This means around 10A continuous current. Look into the cells datasheet to see if they are rated for 15A or more maximum discharge current. All the power tools ( including vacuum ) have high amp rated cells. High internal resistance render them useless for this type of application. Connect the Dyson directly on the battery wires and see if it's actually working. Measure how much voltage drop you have. Too much will trigger BMS protection. Cheers.
Can i apply the completely same procedure to my sv10
Na fam, will just order a new battery pack instead
Not from Dyson, I hope. That's just supporting their BMS-lockout-BS.
It works. I received the pickit , balanced the cells manually (one was low) , wired up the PICkit using the wiring diagram here ( ruclips.net/video/dwyA5rBjncg/видео.html ) , followed this video and changed value at location 1E from 9E to 00 and now the battery works again perfectly. Wow. ( I used 6 toothpicks wedged in and a penknife to open the battery - took 2 minutes. If you look carefully you can see SLIGHT depressions in the plastic where the 6 lugs are ) Do not use MPLAB IDE or IPE it will wipe the firmware and you will need custom firmware from the same guy in the link with the wiring diagram.
Yes indeed all you said it's true! Happy it worked for you.