I have two thoughts when I watch your videos. "Yes, I knew that" and "I really wish I had known that before this project" Thank you for the detailed video. Picking up stitches is something I have struggled with for a few months because I just haven't found anyone who explained it so well.
I am making (slowly) my first self-designed sweater, and opened RUclips with the thought of looking up your videos on the subject of sweaters; and the first video on my front page was a new one! Thank you. 😊
Clear and precise as usual, with several tips I’ve never thought of, and it turns out, excellent timing. I’m working on a top-down sweater from a pattern, but using a different yarn weight so I’m doing lots of math to get the same dimensions as the schematic. I just put the sleeve stitches on hold yesterday and knitted a couple of inches of body, and now I want to finish the neckline ribbing before I go further, just to make sure all my math has been right so far. But I’ve been avoiding it today because goodness, I hate trying to knit neckline ribbing and getting it wrong the first three times. Roxanne to the rescue!🥰 I’ve been taking notes and I feel ready to go. Thank you so much!
Oh wow! Great teaching. Fabulous to know the different edge directions and their ratios. Plus so good to "knit along" with you to see each result. So many times a directive will say "do this..." & knitter's response is "...AND???" Thanks for clarifying ALL the steps.
Thank you Roxanne you all go that extra mile to make sure that not have you said it properly but that we understand the process. I haven't knit a 'v' neck sweater lately but its good to know the intensity is there if I need it. Enjoy your trip, travel well and take care. See you when you get back.
Thanks you for this tutorial. I have used tips from past tutorials and things I have learned in my sixty mumble years of knitting to make my first sweater without a pattern 😅. I learned the long tail cast-on as a Brownie in the 1950’s thank you for giving me the tools to get the results that I want. I could rephrase my mother who said no recipe is written in stone my first sweater was a hot mess I gave the pieces to my grandmother in the seventies she blocked it instead of frogging it warts and all like the picked up stitches that were twisted. She was still wearing it even though the elbows had been mended multiple times in what ever green she had on hand. I know for certain that I was loved she must have felt my love each time she wore it wrapped in the arms I knitted.😢I am positive that your family feels the love that you give them with the hats, socks and sweaters 😊🌟🍀❤️🍀🌟🖖🖖🖖👵🏻👍👍👍🌟🍀❤️🍀🌟👋🏻🧝🏼🤚🏻
I'm working on an early 1940s knit jumper and have just sewed up the shoulders but I had no idea how to pickup the stitches to do the ribbing. This has yet again been incredibly helpful! Thank you Roxanne!! ❤ The pattern says to pickup across three double point needles with 42 stitches on each. I think I manage this now 😊
Thank yiu for another great Technique Tuesday video. I enjoy all of your contect. Thanks to your help, I finally made a pair of socks that fit correctly!
Fantastic video! I’m just curious why we use the stockinette gauge to determine the ratios. I’ve seen other videos that advise using the ribbing gauge (perhaps measured from the hem). I often have a hard time with measuring the gauge from ribbing because I’m not sure whether to stretch it out or not. So in the end, I almost always use the stockinette stitch/row gauge ratio and it has always worked out! I’d love to understand this concept though!
It depends a bit on what the ribbing is used for. Ribbing contracts when it relaxes, but it stretches to the same maximum amount that stockinette stretches. So for hems, cuffs, and necklines, where you want to take advantage of its ability to pull in, you also want it to stretch to the same amount as the stockinette adjacent to it. (Like at the PU edge, which is the largest circumference the ribbing will span.) In other cases, you may *not* want the ribbing to pull in and be narrower than the stockinette portion. You might want the edges to hang even with the stockinette. If you are knitting something that has very little ease, and you want the bottom ribbing to hang down straight, and not pull in, you would swatch to see what sort of stitch count you'd need to make that happen, and then use fewer sts for the stockinette portion. For buttonbands, you want something inbetween that. You don't want the band to be floppy, but you also don't want it to pull in too much at the top and bottom of the bands. In that case, you might use a slightly different PU ratio than the stockinette gauge, so that there are just enough for the band to need to be slightly stretched to fit the length, and then use techniques at the top and bottom of the band to prevent those dips you can get when ribbing pulls in too much.
I love your videos! Thank you for sharing your knowledge in a clear & concise way. Have you written any knitting books? And, I love how prominent your raglan increases are on the blue sweater. Are they M1, knit 2, M1? Seems like they must be something else. Thank you! Christina ❤ 🧶
The raglan sweater was knit bottom up, so those are decreases. They are worked so that they are twisted, in keeping with the traveling twisted stitch pattern in the front panel, and the twisted ribbing.
The reason for binding off sts across the back of the neck (and across the front, if you’re doing a crew neck) is to provide lateral stability. The entire weight of the sweater hangs from the shoulders and neck. Depending on how heavy the sweater is, you might be able to get away with it without the sleeves pulling the neck wider and sliding down your arms. It just depends on what other structure you get from the stitch patterns and yarn.
![How to REALLY pick up stitches [10 hands-on techniques for all projects]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KxiGE67_f0Y/mqdefault.jpg)
You are a fount of knowledge, Roxanne. Thank you for sharing it with us in such an understandable way.
You are such a great teacher Roxanne. I learn so much from your channel. Thank you. 😊❤
I have two thoughts when I watch your videos. "Yes, I knew that" and "I really wish I had known that before this project"
Thank you for the detailed video. Picking up stitches is something I have struggled with for a few months because I just haven't found anyone who explained it so well.
I am making (slowly) my first self-designed sweater, and opened RUclips with the thought of looking up your videos on the subject of sweaters; and the first video on my front page was a new one! Thank you. 😊
Thanks Roxanne, this is very helpful. I appreciate your expertise !
Clear and precise as usual, with several tips I’ve never thought of, and it turns out, excellent timing. I’m working on a top-down sweater from a pattern, but using a different yarn weight so I’m doing lots of math to get the same dimensions as the schematic. I just put the sleeve stitches on hold yesterday and knitted a couple of inches of body, and now I want to finish the neckline ribbing before I go further, just to make sure all my math has been right so far. But I’ve been avoiding it today because goodness, I hate trying to knit neckline ribbing and getting it wrong the first three times. Roxanne to the rescue!🥰 I’ve been taking notes and I feel ready to go. Thank you so much!
Thank you Roxanne. Picking up and knit has always been my pet hate about knitting and now I feel like trying it again 👍🧶
Thankyou sharing your expertise, enjoyedwatching it,
I was just researching on how to pick up stitches for the neckline yesterday! Thank you! ❤
Brilliantly demonstrated and explained, as always! Thank you!
Thank you! What a fantastic deep dive! I've been wondering for a while now how this all works, so this is wonderful!
Just on time, I am working my first bottom up sweater and I'll have to pick up stitches for neck and arms. Thanks so much !!!
Amazing tutorial!
Oh wow! Great teaching. Fabulous to know the different edge directions and their ratios. Plus so good to "knit along" with you to see each result.
So many times a directive will say "do this..." & knitter's response is "...AND???"
Thanks for clarifying ALL the steps.
Thanks for that very valuable info 😉🧶👍
The sharing of your prodigious knowledge of all things knitting is so appreciated by all of us! Thanks Rox - you totally Rock!👏👏👏💐
I always learn something new from your videos, and I have been knitting 43 years. Thank you.
I have been knitting seriously for 30 years and learned a lot from this video! Thank you.
Great episode!
WOW, watching you is such a pleasure. Your teaching is phenomenal!!! Thank you.
Thank you Roxanne you all go that extra mile to make sure that not have you said it properly but that we understand the process.
I haven't knit a 'v' neck sweater lately but its good to know the intensity is there if I need it. Enjoy your trip, travel well and take care. See you when you get back.
Thanks you for this tutorial. I have used tips from past tutorials and things I have learned in my sixty mumble years of knitting to make my first sweater without a pattern 😅. I learned the long tail cast-on as a Brownie in the 1950’s thank you for giving me the tools to get the results that I want. I could rephrase my mother who said no recipe is written in stone my first sweater was a hot mess I gave the pieces to my grandmother in the seventies she blocked it instead of frogging it warts and all like the picked up stitches that were twisted. She was still wearing it even though the elbows had been mended multiple times in what ever green she had on hand. I know for certain that I was loved she must have felt my love each time she wore it wrapped in the arms I knitted.😢I am positive that your family feels the love that you give them with the hats, socks and sweaters 😊🌟🍀❤️🍀🌟🖖🖖🖖👵🏻👍👍👍🌟🍀❤️🍀🌟👋🏻🧝🏼🤚🏻
I'm working on an early 1940s knit jumper and have just sewed up the shoulders but I had no idea how to pickup the stitches to do the ribbing. This has yet again been incredibly helpful! Thank you Roxanne!! ❤
The pattern says to pickup across three double point needles with 42 stitches on each. I think I manage this now 😊
This was very helpful
Thank you Roxanne! I've just picked up stitches for my first self-designed collar and your explaining of each step eased my mind and anxiety :)
Excellent! Thank you❤
Timing is awesome! I’m almost ready for the neck on my FIRST top!
You can do a knit-back-front (kbf) instead of kfb to increase in twisted rib and maintain the pattern.
Thank you Roxanne, for the tutorial!! ❤
Thank you Roxanne, very clear video, as always!
Thank yiu for another great Technique Tuesday video. I enjoy all of your contect. Thanks to your help, I finally made a pair of socks that fit correctly!
Thank you, Rox. I found this video very helpful. I hope to become as meticulous as you.
So helpful.....thank you
Fantastic video! I’m just curious why we use the stockinette gauge to determine the ratios. I’ve seen other videos that advise using the ribbing gauge (perhaps measured from the hem). I often have a hard time with measuring the gauge from ribbing because I’m not sure whether to stretch it out or not. So in the end, I almost always use the stockinette stitch/row gauge ratio and it has always worked out! I’d love to understand this concept though!
It depends a bit on what the ribbing is used for. Ribbing contracts when it relaxes, but it stretches to the same maximum amount that stockinette stretches. So for hems, cuffs, and necklines, where you want to take advantage of its ability to pull in, you also want it to stretch to the same amount as the stockinette adjacent to it. (Like at the PU edge, which is the largest circumference the ribbing will span.)
In other cases, you may *not* want the ribbing to pull in and be narrower than the stockinette portion. You might want the edges to hang even with the stockinette. If you are knitting something that has very little ease, and you want the bottom ribbing to hang down straight, and not pull in, you would swatch to see what sort of stitch count you'd need to make that happen, and then use fewer sts for the stockinette portion. For buttonbands, you want something inbetween that. You don't want the band to be floppy, but you also don't want it to pull in too much at the top and bottom of the bands. In that case, you might use a slightly different PU ratio than the stockinette gauge, so that there are just enough for the band to need to be slightly stretched to fit the length, and then use techniques at the top and bottom of the band to prevent those dips you can get when ribbing pulls in too much.
thank you so much for that excellent explanation!
I love your videos! Thank you for sharing your knowledge in a clear & concise way. Have you written any knitting books? And, I love how prominent your raglan increases are on the blue sweater. Are they M1, knit 2, M1? Seems like they must be something else. Thank you!
Christina ❤ 🧶
The raglan sweater was knit bottom up, so those are decreases. They are worked so that they are twisted, in keeping with the traveling twisted stitch pattern in the front panel, and the twisted ribbing.
❤❤❤
Could you have left your back neck stitches on a holder?
The reason for binding off sts across the back of the neck (and across the front, if you’re doing a crew neck) is to provide lateral stability. The entire weight of the sweater hangs from the shoulders and neck. Depending on how heavy the sweater is, you might be able to get away with it without the sleeves pulling the neck wider and sliding down your arms. It just depends on what other structure you get from the stitch patterns and yarn.