Your English is great and the voice overs are a real treat to hear your thought process. This is already starting out as a great series and very eager for the next episodes!
Been looking forward to this since your teaser video a while back! I'm pretty jealous of some of the functionality honestly. Looks like DC braking on the spindle motor? The feed joystick with rapid traverse is pretty awesome as well (or will be once you get it operational 😉). Brake cleaner is nasty but it's your best friend in a restoration. I'd also recommend a penetrating oil (WD-40 or PB blaster for the surface rust) As for your voiceovers I think you are doing great! Definitely worth including. The audio mix sounded good and you even started to come out of your shell a bit in there which got a few chuckles from me. Trust me when I say the more you do them, the more confident you'll get, and the more you will find your voice. Just takes repetition! Hope to see (and hear) more!
Lovely machine and a great video. Enjoyed your meticulous work and attetion to detail. Worked on a Schaublin mill during my education as a toolmaker around 1990 and found it to be both accurate and a pleasure to work on. Looking forward to follow this project. Subscribed!
Regarding the lubrication hose you can look up any of the suppliers for central lubrication systems (Sinntec, Hennlich, Larco etc.) and search for "Schraubhülse" (~ screw-on bushing). These fittings are pretty common for such applications since they do not require very costly crimping machines.
Great video, I love your lighting and camera work, it's really good! That machine is going to be great when you are finished with it Yes voice overs are something I am always unsure about, I hate doing them and sometimes wonder if I should leave them out. As others have already said your voice over is fine though!
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I'm still using a mix of true video lights and the flickering LED spots which I use as work lights. I have most of the material ready to build a couple of large scale panel lights which should improve lighting a lot.
@@monochromworkshop When you say video lights I assume you mean the style with the parabolic mirror behind the LED and soft box diffuser? I want to get better with lighting, I only use a pair of Neewer 660 lights. hey are ok, but I really need brighter directional lights so I can see what I'm doing, and to get more contrast to the dark background You have that contrast perfect in my opinion!
@@TomMakeHere My only video light is a small Amaran P60x wich I use with the small soft box and grid that came with it. My workshop is too small for larger mobile lights. That's why I would love to build permanently installed lights in my shop which are both soft and directional. I'm currently experimenting with different materials for diffusion and to achieve directionality. I found that especially for wider shots, honeycombs and the like are key to direct attention and avoid filling the whole room with light. The Neewer 660 you have look very nice, especially for that price. The balanced swiveling hinge is so much more convenient than the single side attachment of my Amaran.
I’m really enjoying your videos! I hope you don’t find it too unpleasant to make English voiceovers because - at least for me - they are really useful. I like to understand the thought process that’s involved in working on a repair or a fabrication job. I also like to understand how different people react emotionally to problems, puzzles and mistakes. From RUclips I feel like I’m learning not just how to do the work but also how to think and manage my motivation while working on a project. Those things would be difficult to convey in a video that was either silent or just had text on screen. Also with your videos I enjoy the very dry humour! Finally: I’m looking forward to Ep3. I have a Schaublin 13 that might need a little work and I want to see how you get on with taking your mill apart before I take the covers off mine.
Hey Rob, thank you for your kind comment. I appreciate that a lot. Knowing that people find value in those videos is what keeps my motivation up to work on them.
Hey, i would like to point you towards Arnljot Seem, he has a Schau22 and a few videos on her... He also rebuilt the electronics for his Schau, so he can be of great help to you, as he was to me... Other than Arnljot, I too have a Schau22, and i feel deep love for any great machine, and even tho i dont own your mill, i love her nonetheless... So, you my dear sir have my offer of whatever guidance i can provide... I have a full user manual, and am willing to send a copy of it to you, should you need it or lack one of your own... To further touch upon that point, there is an english pdf version thereof online, to be had for free... I have that pdf aswell, so if you are unable to find it for whatever reason, tell me and i will email you the file... I should still have it on my pc somewhere... But i can always scan my original and make a pdf file to send to you, should i have lost the file i found online 4 years ago, when i got my S22... If you plan on touching up the spindle(as in full bearings change) i highly advise you to look up robin renz and his precision spindle video, and follow what he says religiously... The S22 is an ``ultra precision milling machine`` as per Schaublin themselves, and any single cut corner during the rebuild is essentially sin... Kind of like watchmaking... Its a process that requires and deserves absolute diligence and fanaticism on the behalf of the operator... Theres a reason why such jobs usually cost in the 10-40K$ range, depending on the scope of the rebuild, when done by right people from whom you will get better than oem results(which is a tremendous feat in itself)... Also, should you need any info or pictures on how things look when they are as from Schau assembly line, i can provide... I wasnt there nor have i worked for Schau, but my S22 is a new-old stock which sat quietly for a few decades before she came into my loving embrace... The main lubricant you need is a Kluber grease... Its used for all bearings, and its used to repack the spindle bearings(which tells you a lot about every other ancillary bearing in the machine)... I cant recall the name right now, and im too lazy to walk downstairs to check the tub`o`grease i have for name or extract the data from the machine manual, which is also in a safe enclosure downstairs... But i will edit the comment tomorrow and add the name here: ``(LDS 18 isoflex special a)`` Regarding voiceover, i think you should do it... I am going to start filming my machines and restoration of some of them(as some dont need restoration), and i will talk, despite english not being my primary language, its practically essential, especially in videos like this... Hell, even CaLem who is definitely not a primary english speaker does talk a bit, and it greatly adds to his content and quality... Dont feel pressured into anything, but consider it, as it will ultimately help you develop your english and make your content much more sought after, as you arent braggadocios and full of shit, you will naturally bring up only the worthwhile points, which always acts as a quality checkmark and a bonus to a good video... For now, all the best and kindest regards...
Wow, thank you so much for your very comprehensive comment. I watched all of Arnljot's videos before I bought my machine. Some of the issues he faced are the same with my machine. The broken Z-axis hand wheel, for example, as I only recently found out. Since my machine didn't come with the manual, I ordered a copy from anglo-swiss-tools. Since the plans will come all cut up on different pages, I had to scan them and stich them back together. However, some of the details are just not recognizable in these plans. Not sure this is an issue of my copy only. Also, I don't have the wiring diagrams for the machine but I think I will eventually need them. I may get in contact with Arnljot for that. A full bearing change on the spindle will definitely remain far beyond my capabilities for a long time and I hope that the spindle is in a good enough condition for me to use the machine for my applications.
@@monochromworkshop The spindle isnt really all that monstrous of an undertaking, and its more a dedicated clean-room work with as much prep as went into the whole machine cleanup and assessment... Sure, it seems like a colossal undertaking and one that needs an extreme amount of skill, but generally, if you prep everything well, and use heat and cooling(like lighter gas filler bottles to cool down the things, or those freeze-nut-breaker sprays and heat on opposing parts) the whole precision assembly that is the spindle and its bearings, will perfectly slide in to position and you will feel it ``hit`` the hard shoulder... Its supposed to be a smooth and gentle process where anything that offers resistance is likely an indication that you either havent cleaned it well enough or that its not properly prepared(temperature manipulation of tolerances)... Kind of like handling a very young baby... If you sense pressure other than gentle touch, you could be doing harm very soon... So dont be discouraged from it all too much in that regard... The price of oem spindle bearings on the other hand will likely discourage you away for a while... I cant begin to guess what they cost, but it would not surprise me that they are 1k$/piece... That being said, im most glad that you have seen arnljot`s channel... He seems like a really nice and decent man, and a person dedicated to proper handling of machinery and his shop... As said, if you want, i can help you in some ways... Like taking measurements and pictures of the headstock overarm cover plate, which is a rhomboid piece of iron with two holes drilled down the center line lengthwise... It should be an easy diy part, and you could opt to make it out of good alloy steel and heat oxidize it into some pleasant and appropriate colour, before cooling it and polymerizing oil on the surface to give the oxide a durable protection and high gloss... Like those dark blue oxides, or the 372C purplish blue(akin to often seen titanium finishes)... I prefer such gentle details in conjunction with blaugrau machine grey finish... And unlike paint, its molecularly bound iron oxide with impregnated layer of polymerized oil, so it wont wear off anytime soon or chip when you sneeze near it... And lubricants wont ever damage it... I will check that Kluber grease now and update the original comment, so there`s that at least, but i well recall Arnljot specifically mentioning the grease name in one of his vids and lamenting the price... *edit(``lds 18 isoflex special a`` is the grease) Keep in mind that Arnljot changed out his electrical finery, so his cabinet plans are custom and not oem(they are arguably better, as they are done with more modern parts, but its a whole project in and of itself)... I will take photos of my manual and send it to you, as that will have whole pages, hopefully resulting in less lost detail... The Z handwheel, or the Arnljot situation as i call it is quite a bitch, and i am at a loss as to how that could ever happen(what with the size of the shaft attached to it) to a single machine, let alone two... But if i were to speculate, i would guess that some crude brute used lifting loops and belts, but attached them carelessly and allowed the handle to take most of the load of a swinging and shifting machine to prevent her from flipping or toppling over like a domino as she was lifted up, which could crack such a shaft, as it seems to be an iron shaft, not steel, from what i have seen in Arnljot`s video, and iron is shit in contending with tension, which is exactly what would be exerted on that shaft in such a mishandling... Either way, im heading off to check the tub`o`grease and take a few pics... I`ll be back... All the best! Steuss
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Your English is great and the voice overs are a real treat to hear your thought process. This is already starting out as a great series and very eager for the next episodes!
Been looking forward to this since your teaser video a while back! I'm pretty jealous of some of the functionality honestly. Looks like DC braking on the spindle motor? The feed joystick with rapid traverse is pretty awesome as well (or will be once you get it operational 😉). Brake cleaner is nasty but it's your best friend in a restoration. I'd also recommend a penetrating oil (WD-40 or PB blaster for the surface rust)
As for your voiceovers I think you are doing great! Definitely worth including. The audio mix sounded good and you even started to come out of your shell a bit in there which got a few chuckles from me. Trust me when I say the more you do them, the more confident you'll get, and the more you will find your voice. Just takes repetition! Hope to see (and hear) more!
Hi Brandon, thank you for your encouragement with the voice overs, means a lot! Proud to have you watching my videos.
@@monochromworkshop Absolutely, man!
No worries sir, your voice-over is recreational enough to me,
waiting for the upcoming videos, hopefully they won't be late
keep up the good work
Lovely machine and a great video. Enjoyed your meticulous work and attetion to detail. Worked on a Schaublin mill during my education as a toolmaker around 1990 and found it to be both accurate and a pleasure to work on. Looking forward to follow this project. Subscribed!
Great start and I can't wait to see next episodes! I have a Bridgeport waiting for some little love and your work is an inspiration!
Thank you for this. I like the voice overs, sorry if they are a pain!
Thanks for letting me know. I hope it will eventually become less awkward and more natural to do them.
@@monochromworkshop I'm sure it will happen.
Regarding the lubrication hose you can look up any of the suppliers for central lubrication systems (Sinntec, Hennlich, Larco etc.) and search for "Schraubhülse" (~ screw-on bushing). These fittings are pretty common for such applications since they do not require very costly crimping machines.
Absolutely cool! Well done. The joystick is solid. Already curious about that video...
Great video, I love your lighting and camera work, it's really good!
That machine is going to be great when you are finished with it
Yes voice overs are something I am always unsure about, I hate doing them and sometimes wonder if I should leave them out. As others have already said your voice over is fine though!
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I'm still using a mix of true video lights and the flickering LED spots which I use as work lights. I have most of the material ready to build a couple of large scale panel lights which should improve lighting a lot.
@@monochromworkshop When you say video lights I assume you mean the style with the parabolic mirror behind the LED and soft box diffuser?
I want to get better with lighting, I only use a pair of Neewer 660 lights. hey are ok, but I really need brighter directional lights so I can see what I'm doing, and to get more contrast to the dark background
You have that contrast perfect in my opinion!
@@TomMakeHere My only video light is a small Amaran P60x wich I use with the small soft box and grid that came with it. My workshop is too small for larger mobile lights. That's why I would love to build permanently installed lights in my shop which are both soft and directional. I'm currently experimenting with different materials for diffusion and to achieve directionality. I found that especially for wider shots, honeycombs and the like are key to direct attention and avoid filling the whole room with light.
The Neewer 660 you have look very nice, especially for that price. The balanced swiveling hinge is so much more convenient than the single side attachment of my Amaran.
I’m really enjoying your videos! I hope you don’t find it too unpleasant to make English voiceovers because - at least for me - they are really useful. I like to understand the thought process that’s involved in working on a repair or a fabrication job. I also like to understand how different people react emotionally to problems, puzzles and mistakes. From RUclips I feel like I’m learning not just how to do the work but also how to think and manage my motivation while working on a project. Those things would be difficult to convey in a video that was either silent or just had text on screen. Also with your videos I enjoy the very dry humour! Finally: I’m looking forward to Ep3. I have a Schaublin 13 that might need a little work and I want to see how you get on with taking your mill apart before I take the covers off mine.
Hey Rob, thank you for your kind comment. I appreciate that a lot. Knowing that people find value in those videos is what keeps my motivation up to work on them.
Awesome! I really love Your videos!
Thanks. Means a lot.
Hey, i would like to point you towards Arnljot Seem, he has a Schau22 and a few videos on her... He also rebuilt the electronics for his Schau, so he can be of great help to you, as he was to me...
Other than Arnljot, I too have a Schau22, and i feel deep love for any great machine, and even tho i dont own your mill, i love her nonetheless... So, you my dear sir have my offer of whatever guidance i can provide... I have a full user manual, and am willing to send a copy of it to you, should you need it or lack one of your own... To further touch upon that point, there is an english pdf version thereof online, to be had for free... I have that pdf aswell, so if you are unable to find it for whatever reason, tell me and i will email you the file... I should still have it on my pc somewhere... But i can always scan my original and make a pdf file to send to you, should i have lost the file i found online 4 years ago, when i got my S22...
If you plan on touching up the spindle(as in full bearings change) i highly advise you to look up robin renz and his precision spindle video, and follow what he says religiously... The S22 is an ``ultra precision milling machine`` as per Schaublin themselves, and any single cut corner during the rebuild is essentially sin... Kind of like watchmaking... Its a process that requires and deserves absolute diligence and fanaticism on the behalf of the operator... Theres a reason why such jobs usually cost in the 10-40K$ range, depending on the scope of the rebuild, when done by right people from whom you will get better than oem results(which is a tremendous feat in itself)...
Also, should you need any info or pictures on how things look when they are as from Schau assembly line, i can provide... I wasnt there nor have i worked for Schau, but my S22 is a new-old stock which sat quietly for a few decades before she came into my loving embrace...
The main lubricant you need is a Kluber grease... Its used for all bearings, and its used to repack the spindle bearings(which tells you a lot about every other ancillary bearing in the machine)... I cant recall the name right now, and im too lazy to walk downstairs to check the tub`o`grease i have for name or extract the data from the machine manual, which is also in a safe enclosure downstairs... But i will edit the comment tomorrow and add the name here: ``(LDS 18 isoflex special a)``
Regarding voiceover, i think you should do it... I am going to start filming my machines and restoration of some of them(as some dont need restoration), and i will talk, despite english not being my primary language, its practically essential, especially in videos like this... Hell, even CaLem who is definitely not a primary english speaker does talk a bit, and it greatly adds to his content and quality... Dont feel pressured into anything, but consider it, as it will ultimately help you develop your english and make your content much more sought after, as you arent braggadocios and full of shit, you will naturally bring up only the worthwhile points, which always acts as a quality checkmark and a bonus to a good video...
For now, all the best and kindest regards...
Wow, thank you so much for your very comprehensive comment. I watched all of Arnljot's videos before I bought my machine. Some of the issues he faced are the same with my machine. The broken Z-axis hand wheel, for example, as I only recently found out.
Since my machine didn't come with the manual, I ordered a copy from anglo-swiss-tools. Since the plans will come all cut up on different pages, I had to scan them and stich them back together. However, some of the details are just not recognizable in these plans. Not sure this is an issue of my copy only. Also, I don't have the wiring diagrams for the machine but I think I will eventually need them. I may get in contact with Arnljot for that.
A full bearing change on the spindle will definitely remain far beyond my capabilities for a long time and I hope that the spindle is in a good enough condition for me to use the machine for my applications.
@@monochromworkshop The spindle isnt really all that monstrous of an undertaking, and its more a dedicated clean-room work with as much prep as went into the whole machine cleanup and assessment... Sure, it seems like a colossal undertaking and one that needs an extreme amount of skill, but generally, if you prep everything well, and use heat and cooling(like lighter gas filler bottles to cool down the things, or those freeze-nut-breaker sprays and heat on opposing parts) the whole precision assembly that is the spindle and its bearings, will perfectly slide in to position and you will feel it ``hit`` the hard shoulder...
Its supposed to be a smooth and gentle process where anything that offers resistance is likely an indication that you either havent cleaned it well enough or that its not properly prepared(temperature manipulation of tolerances)... Kind of like handling a very young baby... If you sense pressure other than gentle touch, you could be doing harm very soon...
So dont be discouraged from it all too much in that regard... The price of oem spindle bearings on the other hand will likely discourage you away for a while... I cant begin to guess what they cost, but it would not surprise me that they are 1k$/piece...
That being said, im most glad that you have seen arnljot`s channel... He seems like a really nice and decent man, and a person dedicated to proper handling of machinery and his shop... As said, if you want, i can help you in some ways... Like taking measurements and pictures of the headstock overarm cover plate, which is a rhomboid piece of iron with two holes drilled down the center line lengthwise... It should be an easy diy part, and you could opt to make it out of good alloy steel and heat oxidize it into some pleasant and appropriate colour, before cooling it and polymerizing oil on the surface to give the oxide a durable protection and high gloss... Like those dark blue oxides, or the 372C purplish blue(akin to often seen titanium finishes)... I prefer such gentle details in conjunction with blaugrau machine grey finish... And unlike paint, its molecularly bound iron oxide with impregnated layer of polymerized oil, so it wont wear off anytime soon or chip when you sneeze near it... And lubricants wont ever damage it...
I will check that Kluber grease now and update the original comment, so there`s that at least, but i well recall Arnljot specifically mentioning the grease name in one of his vids and lamenting the price... *edit(``lds 18 isoflex special a`` is the grease)
Keep in mind that Arnljot changed out his electrical finery, so his cabinet plans are custom and not oem(they are arguably better, as they are done with more modern parts, but its a whole project in and of itself)... I will take photos of my manual and send it to you, as that will have whole pages, hopefully resulting in less lost detail...
The Z handwheel, or the Arnljot situation as i call it is quite a bitch, and i am at a loss as to how that could ever happen(what with the size of the shaft attached to it) to a single machine, let alone two... But if i were to speculate, i would guess that some crude brute used lifting loops and belts, but attached them carelessly and allowed the handle to take most of the load of a swinging and shifting machine to prevent her from flipping or toppling over like a domino as she was lifted up, which could crack such a shaft, as it seems to be an iron shaft, not steel, from what i have seen in Arnljot`s video, and iron is shit in contending with tension, which is exactly what would be exerted on that shaft in such a mishandling...
Either way, im heading off to check the tub`o`grease and take a few pics... I`ll be back...
All the best!
Steuss