Now make a chamber to heat used oil and then enrich with the steam and hydrogen as a piggyback multi fuel system. I am so glad I searched for this. I have been wanting to add a steam reformer to my gassifier and also a similar drip feed of used oil in a parallel feed that would introduce the steam and oil together. Thanks for the inspiration
It does add Hydrogen. What is happening is referred to as a water gas shift. Used in commercial production of Hydrogen gas. The carbon monoxide produced by the charcoal grabs the oxygen from the water at the high temps. Looks like this in chemistry terms CO + H2O = CO2 + H2. Great job man! New sub here.
Looking good! Must be making plenty rich gas to need the air valve wide open, that or maybe the foam filter for your fresh air is restrictive enough to meet stoichiometry for the chargas.
If you attracted the water reservoir to the hot part of the gasifier and let the reservoir generate steam. You could then just pump steam into the bottom and eliminate the valve all together. Awesome job and thanks for sharing. Nice and simple.
That would be interesting. Having seen some fairly impressive explosions from over-pressurized steam pressure chambers, I would be a bit leery about having a pressurized container on the side of the gasifier. I guess I could rig up something like a pressure cooker relief valve to make sure it doesn't build too much pressure. Thanks for watching.
Like a lot of cameras, mine doesn't catch the exact color of the flare correctly. When I am looking at it in person, it is more blue. Based on all my testing, I am confident that I have little to no tar in the gas. I have checked in the gasifier, hoses, filter, carburetor, condensate jar and even in the engine's combustion chamber using an endoscope and have not seen any evidence of tar. Flame color isn't always a good indicator of the presence of tar since the flare color can change based on a variety of factors (like how rich or lean the burning flare is or the composition of the gas - percentage of hydrogen to carbon monoxide). Thanks for watching.
On short run maybe but on long run it can appear but just adding heat can fix the issue probably,have you look btu content of gas seem in war time in Europe they used some of CO2 of motor combustion back in gasifier to to control temperature vo3 was cracked back to CO2 they said,in the case of pure coal as fuel,you can look in flameless gasification to and add more hydrogen if needed your water approach is instructive and a good idea
Hi Bryan, your thoughts are very right in this direction of adding water steam to the process. Steve (cncmachiningisfun) solved this in a way which could help you to improve this for your system. Good luck. :) One more thing I want to bring to the screen: Please don't bring your Predator into the game too early. I would recommend to check the valves for clogging up next.
Thanks for the comments. On my next gasifier, I am planning to do something more along the lines of what Steve (and others) did and have the water reservoir welded to the side of the gasifier to increase the heat transfer into the water. Since this video, I have run the gasifier and engine several more times and have gotten a better feel for the water drip. When it's running right, I can hear a nice, steady sizzling sound coming from the water hitting the nozzle and no water drips on the ground. Having a vertical nozzle makes it a little more tricky to know if it's working right so I have to rely on sound more than anything. I have a video coming out soon where I try out a gas cooling rack, and with that and the inline filter, the amount of moisture making it into the carburetor is almost non-existent. I also run the engine on gasoline for 5 minutes after using the gasifier for any length of time just to flush out anything that may be in the carburetor or on the intake valve. Other than that, I am confident in the quality of the charcoal I have made and that it should have little to no tar and the inline filter should catch any remaining dust or particles.
Pretty sure. In the reduction zone of the gasifier, there is little to no oxygen present, and the hot carbon (charcoal) is starving for oxygen. When water (h2o) molecules pass through the reduction zone, the hot carbon strips the oxygen atoms from the water molecules which leaves the hydrogen atoms as part of the output gas. The water can come from either the moisture (humidity) content of the charcoal itself or by adding water to the charcoal or by using a drip system. Thanks for watching.
If you're seeing tar with a charcoal updraft gasifier, the charcoal you are using isn't properly made. With properly made charcoal, I have not seen any indication of tar in my engine's intake or in any of the output hoses or filters of my gasifier through many hours of run time. When I first started playing with gasification, I used improperly made charcoal and saw quite a bit of gummy tar.
@@BryanWhite77ow I see so there's quite some different kinds of charcoal I didn't understand why your flame is still yellow even whit charcoal , from experience as long as the flame is not blue or if there is fog in the cool gas its not recommended to use it in a engine, i didn't want to waste time en energy making charcoal so I do woodchips en whit great success, the dual fire stratified gives very low tar en the new 2 stage gasifier I've built zero tar in the raw gas whit around 25/30% moisture woodchips , I wonder what is the de-rating of your engine whit charcoal? Mine on chip's is around 65/70% if the gas is cool enough
Now make a chamber to heat used oil and then enrich with the steam and hydrogen as a piggyback multi fuel system. I am so glad I searched for this. I have been wanting to add a steam reformer to my gassifier and also a similar drip feed of used oil in a parallel feed that would introduce the steam and oil together. Thanks for the inspiration
It does add Hydrogen. What is happening is referred to as a water gas shift. Used in commercial production of Hydrogen gas. The carbon monoxide produced by the charcoal grabs the oxygen from the water at the high temps. Looks like this in chemistry terms CO + H2O = CO2 + H2. Great job man! New sub here.
Thank you.💨💨🔥💦👍👍
Bryan, very nice work. I am glad I ran across your videos. Thanks for posting.
Looking good! Must be making plenty rich gas to need the air valve wide open, that or maybe the foam filter for your fresh air is restrictive enough to meet stoichiometry for the chargas.
Yes, it seems the foam on the filter was too thick. I trimmed it down and now I have a bit more adjustment available to me on the air intake.
I was thinking the same thing, obviously producing an ideal fuel for that engine
If you attracted the water reservoir to the hot part of the gasifier and let the reservoir generate steam. You could then just pump steam into the bottom and eliminate the valve all together. Awesome job and thanks for sharing. Nice and simple.
That would be interesting. Having seen some fairly impressive explosions from over-pressurized steam pressure chambers, I would be a bit leery about having a pressurized container on the side of the gasifier. I guess I could rig up something like a pressure cooker relief valve to make sure it doesn't build too much pressure. Thanks for watching.
@@BryanWhite77. Just use a copper pipe boiler. .
Try to get your fuel size down a bit more, the gas will cool down a bit better. I had the same issue before sizing my charcoal down.
I am working on a charcoal grinder that should give me more consistency in the charcoal size. What size would you consider maximum?
@@BryanWhite77🤔🤔 my paper shredder from the dump . Needs a few mods.. spacers on the shaft..💥
Don t like color of flame tar in it seem or something
Like a lot of cameras, mine doesn't catch the exact color of the flare correctly. When I am looking at it in person, it is more blue. Based on all my testing, I am confident that I have little to no tar in the gas. I have checked in the gasifier, hoses, filter, carburetor, condensate jar and even in the engine's combustion chamber using an endoscope and have not seen any evidence of tar. Flame color isn't always a good indicator of the presence of tar since the flare color can change based on a variety of factors (like how rich or lean the burning flare is or the composition of the gas - percentage of hydrogen to carbon monoxide). Thanks for watching.
On short run maybe but on long run it can appear but just adding heat can fix the issue probably,have you look btu content of gas seem in war time in Europe they used some of CO2 of motor combustion back in gasifier to to control temperature vo3 was cracked back to CO2 they said,in the case of pure coal as fuel,you can look in flameless gasification to and add more hydrogen if needed your water approach is instructive and a good idea
Maybe but I am colorblind but I am sensitive to density...
A pure flame is colorless as you see on some of your video Wich is good hydrogen metsnr are colorless we cannot see it,
Have you compare the gas and gasoline difference on the power of genset on full load
Thank you.
Hi Bryan, your thoughts are very right in this direction of adding water steam to the process.
Steve (cncmachiningisfun) solved this in a way which could help you to improve this for your system.
Good luck. :)
One more thing I want to bring to the screen: Please don't bring your Predator into the game too early. I would recommend to check the valves for clogging up next.
Thanks for the comments. On my next gasifier, I am planning to do something more along the lines of what Steve (and others) did and have the water reservoir welded to the side of the gasifier to increase the heat transfer into the water. Since this video, I have run the gasifier and engine several more times and have gotten a better feel for the water drip. When it's running right, I can hear a nice, steady sizzling sound coming from the water hitting the nozzle and no water drips on the ground. Having a vertical nozzle makes it a little more tricky to know if it's working right so I have to rely on sound more than anything. I have a video coming out soon where I try out a gas cooling rack, and with that and the inline filter, the amount of moisture making it into the carburetor is almost non-existent. I also run the engine on gasoline for 5 minutes after using the gasifier for any length of time just to flush out anything that may be in the carburetor or on the intake valve. Other than that, I am confident in the quality of the charcoal I have made and that it should have little to no tar and the inline filter should catch any remaining dust or particles.
Ravelkoff he's running a charcoal gasifier, there's only a risk of tar if he makes a bad batch of fuel which I doubt he would do.
@@cetate93 yepp I got it from his reply.
Nice!
Thanks, Matt. You inspire me.
I agree. T.o.g.🤣👍
How sure are you that it produces hydrogen?
Pretty sure. In the reduction zone of the gasifier, there is little to no oxygen present, and the hot carbon (charcoal) is starving for oxygen. When water (h2o) molecules pass through the reduction zone, the hot carbon strips the oxygen atoms from the water molecules which leaves the hydrogen atoms as part of the output gas. The water can come from either the moisture (humidity) content of the charcoal itself or by adding water to the charcoal or by using a drip system. Thanks for watching.
@@BryanWhite77and the hot iron catalyst..
💥red hot.
I wanna test this gas thru a an that... ATOMIC HYDROGEN WELDER ..torch..🤔
Add some hifrogen do what about the oxygen?
The leftover oxygen atoms bond with the carbon to become more carbon monoxide.
Ok do you have gas analysis? Where do you live?
Jehhzzz updraft is the worst kind of gasifeir 😅 its a tar machine even whit charcoal 😂
If you're seeing tar with a charcoal updraft gasifier, the charcoal you are using isn't properly made. With properly made charcoal, I have not seen any indication of tar in my engine's intake or in any of the output hoses or filters of my gasifier through many hours of run time. When I first started playing with gasification, I used improperly made charcoal and saw quite a bit of gummy tar.
@@BryanWhite77ow I see so there's quite some different kinds of charcoal I didn't understand why your flame is still yellow even whit charcoal , from experience as long as the flame is not blue or if there is fog in the cool gas its not recommended to use it in a engine, i didn't want to waste time en energy making charcoal so I do woodchips en whit great success, the dual fire stratified gives very low tar en the new 2 stage gasifier I've built zero tar in the raw gas whit around 25/30% moisture woodchips , I wonder what is the de-rating of your engine whit charcoal? Mine on chip's is around 65/70% if the gas is cool enough
😂🔨💨 its an ATOMIC HYDROGEN WELDER. machine.😯