I really appreciate the information in your videos. I have been an electrician apprenticeship for couple months and what you are doing are super helpful for green guys like me! Thank you ( from Australia)
when drilling metal you feel the bit looking for a proper cutting. To fast you end up with a waste of money in a wasted bit. to slow no cut. Just right and add cutting oil. Your bit will last till the next cut
Worked at a large slaughterhouse years ago that had a lot of heavy stainless steel covering walls. We had regular drill bits w/118 degree tip and 135 degree bits for stainless steel. If you pushed too hard on a new SS bit it would work harden the stainless steel then smoke ruining driil bit.
The titanium Milwaukee index is a must have for critical drilling. I stopped resharpening my paddle bits when I discovered the DIABLO auger tip paddle bits. As long as auger screw remains sharp, the cutting edges are dulled out, and the auger still pulls the bit through. Ryobi snap together 16in bit extensions connected end on end can make my Diablo bit up to 4ft long in seconds. The extensions break down to tool pouch size, without stepping off the ladder.
#8 it shows the recommended RPM to use for stainless. Just use it on low with a lot of pressure. Yea it feels like its taking forever but you will only get a handful of holes if you go high speed. At $35 a bit you dont want to be burning these out.
The spade bits are great for boring out concrete. If you're trying to run EMT through concrete, you will be boring out a lot of holes. The nut drivers you need are 1/4 (a few random things), 5/16 (most tek screws), 3/8 (larger tek screws), 7/16 (for 1/4 bolts), 1/2 (for 5/16 bolts?), 9/16 (for 3/8 bolts). Optional ones are 3/4 (for 1/2 bolts) and 1" (to connect your drill to a knockout set). Try to get deep sockets for all of those sizes. Getting a $10 set of Torx bits is a good idea. You'll encounter one or two of them and there's nobody else you can borrow a Torx bit from. As for step drills, buy lots of the 1/2 step drills on Amazon or some other online store. The larger cheap step drills are garbage, but the 1/2 cheap ones are awesome. I have at least 4 of them in my bag all the time.
For the paddle and spade bits...I like the design of Irwin's bits. Like the Bosch bits, they have a self-feed tap but they have 3 wings for boring the hole and removing the debris they are also pretty forgiving on finding a nail or screw you can also purchase these individually. For the carbide hole saws, I have found that drilling a 1/16 pilot hole helps the center tap of the bit set. I have broken so many of those center taps starting the hole with them.
Pirate holes... ☠🕳☠ Rrrr...matey. 🌊⛵ @ 6:00 🤺 Walk the plank, ya' skalliwags... FYI The best step bits, are made by Dewalt. We tested them on 1/4" inch armour plating and stainless. The tests we conducted included 8 common brands of bits. Yes, they are $60...
Someone showed me to drill on the slow to medium setting with moderate pressure and feather the trigger on and off and it's saved me so much time and so many bits.
Nice list. I also use a lot: impact reamer bit, locking extensions of different lengths, right angle adapter for close clearances, quality flex bits, u joints, countersink predrills, and for mainly after hours I also use a small pocket screw setup a ton. I save money on unibits with eBay A quality 1/2" tungsten carbide twist bit is killer to have. I personally like the longer 3-4" wera power bits for clearances.
Great content as normal!! Milwaukee makes a 3pack of impact rated hole saws w/ a flange to stop hole saw and a spring for ejecting material 1/2” thru 1” (trade size) for thin metal. Carbide cutters are the best for precise holes in thick steel as well as stainless-keep some cutting oil to save all metal hole making bits. I carry 1/4” thru 7/16” impact nut drivers and 1/2” & 9/16” sockets on 3/8 adapter for impact in my service bag. keep bit magnetizer on service bag as well-i use the slider for stainless screws. keep the videos coming
FOLKS WORKING AROUND STAINLESS STEEL: dont waste your time with the black oxide or whatever other metal drill bits you think are good. Get a set of drill bits that have cobalt in them. Cobalt is the ONLY type of bit that we find actually drills quickly and actually last with the abuse of drilling stainless steel. They are GREAT for drilling softer metals but might be a bit overkill.
Make sure to have 5/32 & 3/16 masonry bits for the shit ton tapcons you will use if commercial. Also the combo 1/4 5/16 nut driver bit from Malco is a must have.
Dustin, You didn't say anything about Auger Bits ! As a Journeyman Electrician with over 55 years in the trade, mostly Residential and some Commercial, I use Wood Auger Bits of various sizes and lengths when drilling holes in studs or other wood framing members whether using my Right Angle Milwaukee HD 1/2 '' corded Drill or my 20V Dewalt Hammer Drill . I use Irwin Auger Bits the most . They really get the job done and chew through wood like a hot knife through butter !
If you have to use screws that are nonmetallic, like roofing self-tappers which work great for mounting boxes and strapping conduit, use either a little of the duct guys pookie, a little gum or use some saliva to keep the screw in the hex bittip or on the tip of your Phillips
Sir, I very much respect and appreciate all of your videos. However, I think you will be much more satisfied by using self-feed bits, in lieu of the forstner bits. Forstner bits are precision woodworking tools designed specifically for drilling flat bottom holes. A self feed bit has a screw pilot and far more aggressive cutting action. If you get a selfie bit started on a right angle drill, it will pull itself all the way through without you needing to apply much pressure. Give them a try, and I think you will never go back. Thank you for sharing all of your wisdom with us.
I'm not a dewalt guy by any means but I've found for the most part they make the best drill bits and step bits. I also don't like to use any bits in an impact driver. Always in a drill.
Amen brother those Milwaukee step bits are the bees knees. They last forever. And they have a 3 set kit. And I have drilled hundreds of holes with them and they are still going strong
The cheapest plain spade bits can be sharpened with a file. It’s nice to have a few older cheap ones like that, since you can sharpen them in the field.
man, get yourself a greenlee knockout kit.. never met a metal that my knockout wouldn't just pull through. We were punching holes through hardended steel boxes, cable tray, etc... Fully with ya on the speed bits (forstner bits)
I don't own paddle bits, and have no intention to ever own them again. if you need a clean hole, you should be using a hole saw, if you don't you should be using an auger. and yes, you left out the ship auger. if you hit a nail with a forstner or planer bit, the bit is pretty much toast. a good ship auger will keep on going. but buy good ones.
Any reccomendations for holesaws used for 6" pot lights? I know it probably doenst matter much cause its just drywall.. but id rather just buy it once lol
Unibit tip never run too fast. It will burn them up. Better using a USA carbide hole saw. Up to 10 times faster with only 10% of hot chips. Stay away from lack of quality control cheating china carbide hole saws. All garbage. If you are drilling a lot of holes in old houses purchase greenlee nail eater bits. They will cut throw hidden nails with no problems. Greenlee makes two diameters of extra heavy duty drill bit extensions that last forever. Only broke one of them after drilling thousands of holes with it. Nice vid.
Love your videos man. Really enjoy the content and knowledge you offer. The intro music could be a little easier on the ears but its alright lol. Thank you for your time.
No, stay out of the union! Too much politics. Better to get on with a good company that will send you to school. I did the union thing, and it sucks! Everyone gets raises even if u work harder than them.
When you say “low speed” what setting are you using specifically? I’m an electrical helper and I’m trying to soak up any tips and tricks I can learn! Thanks
you don't need fancy Forstner bits, they are meant for blind holes in cabinet doors. For through holes, you want them self feed wood drilling bits, also expensive, but not finish woodworking level.
A pirate walks up to the bar with a steering wheel attached to his privates. Somebody asks "Hey, why is that steering wheel attached to your junk?" The pirate says "Argghh, it's drivin' me nuts!" Corny...ok lol
you want self-feed not forstners, forstners are are more for blind holes self-feed are for through drilling, milwaukee self-feed with the removable blades are good cause you can replaces all the wear parts.
#1 rule, since I am from Canada, no Phillips screws, if I have to install something that comes with Phillips screws, they are going to the trash and replace with Robertson screws, so we don't need to buy Phillips bits by the jumbo bag.
I personally live Robertson buts and screws. Alot of our screws can do both Philips and Robertson. I usually carry a robertson for those I can use on. If I wasn't in industrial/commercial and if the company supplied them I'd switch them all to robertsons if they'd let me lol
Love all these videos - thank you. I have very high standards - and I think good preferences with tools etc --- and I have exact same thoughts on Everything that Dustin says!!! Tools, technique, reasons for doing things! It's reaffirming hearing it from Dustin.
I started out with a cheap Ryobi drill set about 20 years ago. Got back into electrical four (4) years ago - and been using Milwaukee ever since. Dewalt sleeve bit. Daredevil paddle bits. Method of putting recessed cans up. High speed oscillating tool is also CRUCIAL tool for electricians.
My opinion for what it's worth: Tool bag for sure. Tool belt should only really carry essentials, too much crap hanging on you every day is going to cause physical health problems over time and you'll be bringing your tool bag with you just about every where anyway and for jobs you won't be you can fit the few tools you know you'll need into your pockets.
Depends on the type of work you do, I use a tool bag that has everything I might need, and I also use a small tool belt and carry what I need for the task of the day. Everything else stays in the truck, until I need it
While at an IAEI continuing education class they asked who owns or uses of a company toraue wrench. Might have been 5 guys out of over a hundred. Should send them out to be calibrated every year. Do not think anybody has an insulated torque wrench so even with PPE that is dangerous. Only shorted out a hot buss bar once. Had to go.out to my van and change my shorts.
@@garbo8962 Yeah, the only times my boss has instructed me to use a torque wrench is when we’re doing connecting cables that are going to carry like 63+ amps
@@huskypro1 He is wrong if you look at the 2020 NEC. Every electrical connection including receptacles & toggle switches must be tightened with a torque device. There is a great ex electrician/ inspector Ryan Jackson that along with Mike Holt produce the absolute best code & electrical vids. Ryan recently mentioned that somebody like UL checked hundreds of various electrical tetminations. Think the # was like 60% were not torqued enough 30% were correct and remainder had too much torque applied. If I was not retired and no longer doing any electrical work I would have a torque screwdriver for say screws on devices and a 3/8 or 1/2" torque wrench for larger stuff.
Your company will give you one if your ever terminating big wires in a panel which is not often. Those things have to be calibrated yearly as well so it's not something you can grab out of your garage.
Can anyone comment on the Milwaukee versus the Klein carbide hole cutter? And the winner of those versus the expensive greenlee? Ehich see.s better/longest lasting?
I need to find an extension for my hole saws(klein, like was shown in the video) and step bits that have the rounded chuck, maybe 3/8 rounded.. every extension that I've seen is for 1/4, 3/8, hex and not the rounded ends on the step bits and hole saws.. Idk if they even make an extension for what I'm looking for but it'd be nice of they did.. I know someone out there has to know what I'm talking about, if anyone does please let me know
Does anyone know what kind of extensions to use when using a spade bit? I’ve gone through 4 in the past two weeks and they just keep breaking either they break the spade bit or the extensions. And I haven’t hit nail’s
I'm sure you've seen them but I like the three quarter bit that is about 4 ft long. You can go through several studs without having to cut the sheetrock. Just found your channel cheers
I do have those as well, I'm thinking about doing a part 2 of this with a lot of "alternative bits" like flex bits, stubbies, etc that I'll definitely put that 4-footer on. Thanks for watching and thanks for the suggestion my friend!
@@ElectricianU Also, add a 6" hole saw bit for the large recessed/can lights in drywall and drop ceiling. I use mine with a plastic bowl to catch the dust, and I can usually install 6 recessed lights within an hour.
Should this be stuff that my employer or I buy???? One foreman at work told me not to use my personal stuff because they should be buying it but another foreman, same company told me to use my own. Any help or advise please.
the thing about Greenlee is none of the tools they make are the best example of that tool - but they are usually good enough and they make the most variety.
It's terrible man... and the fact that you cracked up over it shows that you're getting old. That being said, I'm getting old too and love terrible dad jokes. The worst dad jokes always get the most laughs and work groups that laugh together work best together.
BWAHAHAHAHAAA !! Oh good GOD man, well done good dir !!! Way to segway right into the ultimate cheeser dad joke PIRATE JOKE in there mate !! Something akin, no shit since we're all being REAL here, it's something just exactly like I myself would/will/love doing myself !!! P.S. - I'm sooo going to use your PIRATE joke in to my vernacular and repertoire this week at some point; then include the little gem forever !! 😜 Wonderful and highly accurate + valuable information sir !! Thank you for sharing my friend !
I really appreciate the information in your videos. I have been an electrician apprenticeship for couple months and what you are doing are super helpful for green guys like me!
Thank you ( from Australia)
Hot pro tip: if your bit isnt producing chips, its only producing heat and friction.
Thx
Simple yet easy to forget..
when drilling metal you feel the bit looking for a proper cutting. To fast you end up with a waste of money in a wasted bit. to slow no cut. Just right and add cutting oil. Your bit will last till the next cut
Worked at a large slaughterhouse years ago that had a lot of heavy stainless steel covering walls. We had regular drill bits w/118 degree tip and 135 degree bits for stainless steel. If you pushed too hard on a new SS bit it would work harden the stainless steel then smoke ruining driil bit.
I’m Really surprised you didn’t mention the 7/8 ship auger. Those are extremely popular.
I know guys that have a drill specifically for a 7/8 auger.
We keep joist drills with augers on every truck
The titanium Milwaukee index is a must have for critical drilling. I stopped resharpening my paddle bits when I discovered the DIABLO auger tip paddle bits. As long as auger screw remains sharp, the cutting edges are dulled out, and the auger still pulls the bit through. Ryobi snap together 16in bit extensions connected end on end can make my Diablo bit up to 4ft long in seconds. The extensions break down to tool pouch size, without stepping off the ladder.
#8 it shows the recommended RPM to use for stainless. Just use it on low with a lot of pressure. Yea it feels like its taking forever but you will only get a handful of holes if you go high speed. At $35 a bit you dont want to be burning these out.
That's a really good idea about the paddle bits from Bosch, I always have 8-10 quarter inch and 3/16 in my bit case that never get used
The spade bits are great for boring out concrete. If you're trying to run EMT through concrete, you will be boring out a lot of holes.
The nut drivers you need are 1/4 (a few random things), 5/16 (most tek screws), 3/8 (larger tek screws), 7/16 (for 1/4 bolts), 1/2 (for 5/16 bolts?), 9/16 (for 3/8 bolts). Optional ones are 3/4 (for 1/2 bolts) and 1" (to connect your drill to a knockout set). Try to get deep sockets for all of those sizes.
Getting a $10 set of Torx bits is a good idea. You'll encounter one or two of them and there's nobody else you can borrow a Torx bit from.
As for step drills, buy lots of the 1/2 step drills on Amazon or some other online store. The larger cheap step drills are garbage, but the 1/2 cheap ones are awesome. I have at least 4 of them in my bag all the time.
For the paddle and spade bits...I like the design of Irwin's bits. Like the Bosch bits, they have a self-feed tap but they have 3 wings for boring the hole and removing the debris they are also pretty forgiving on finding a nail or screw you can also purchase these individually.
For the carbide hole saws, I have found that drilling a 1/16 pilot hole helps the center tap of the bit set. I have broken so many of those center taps starting the hole with them.
I love the fact that you used the term rifling instead of flute lol
He is from texas
He’s a marine😂
Pirate holes... ☠🕳☠
Rrrr...matey. 🌊⛵ @ 6:00 🤺
Walk the plank, ya' skalliwags...
FYI
The best step bits, are made by Dewalt.
We tested them on 1/4" inch armour plating and stainless.
The tests we conducted included 8 common brands of bits.
Yes, they are $60...
Someone showed me to drill on the slow to medium setting with moderate pressure and feather the trigger on and off and it's saved me so much time and so many bits.
The nut drivers- metric and SAE, impact rated long shaft hollow, magnetic drivers are amazing from Klein and Wiha .
Nice list. I also use a lot: impact reamer bit, locking extensions of different lengths, right angle adapter for close clearances, quality flex bits, u joints, countersink predrills, and for mainly after hours I also use a small pocket screw setup a ton.
I save money on unibits with eBay
A quality 1/2" tungsten carbide twist bit is killer to have.
I personally like the longer 3-4" wera power bits for clearances.
Great content as normal!! Milwaukee makes a 3pack of impact rated hole saws w/ a flange to stop hole saw and a spring for ejecting material 1/2” thru 1” (trade size) for thin metal. Carbide cutters are the best for precise holes in thick steel as well as stainless-keep some cutting oil to save all metal hole making bits. I carry 1/4” thru 7/16” impact nut drivers and 1/2” & 9/16” sockets on 3/8 adapter for impact in my service bag. keep bit magnetizer on service bag as well-i use the slider for stainless screws. keep the videos coming
That pirate joke made my morning. I’m still laughing lol
FOLKS WORKING AROUND STAINLESS STEEL: dont waste your time with the black oxide or whatever other metal drill bits you think are good. Get a set of drill bits that have cobalt in them. Cobalt is the ONLY type of bit that we find actually drills quickly and actually last with the abuse of drilling stainless steel. They are GREAT for drilling softer metals but might be a bit overkill.
Make sure to have 5/32 & 3/16 masonry bits for the shit ton tapcons you will use if commercial. Also the combo 1/4 5/16 nut driver bit from Malco is a must have.
As an electrician I approve this video. Nice video man.
My wish list keeps getting bigger!
Thanks for the video.
I found that using the twist bits in an impact driver even if they're rated for use in an impact it ruins them quicker.
Dustin, You didn't say anything about Auger Bits ! As a Journeyman Electrician with over 55 years in the trade, mostly Residential and some Commercial, I use Wood Auger Bits of various sizes and lengths when drilling holes in studs or other wood framing members whether using my Right Angle Milwaukee HD 1/2 '' corded Drill or my 20V Dewalt Hammer Drill . I use Irwin Auger Bits the most . They really get the job done and chew through wood like a hot knife through butter !
Pirate holes!? Careful dude! I hear that's how you get the scurvy haha.
Dad jokes for the win!
That ain't it
solid information.....I tell all my apprentices at work to check your channel out.
If you have to use screws that are nonmetallic, like roofing self-tappers which work great for mounting boxes and strapping conduit, use either a little of the duct guys pookie, a little gum or use some saliva to keep the screw in the hex bittip or on the tip of your Phillips
Sir, I very much respect and appreciate all of your videos. However, I think you will be much more satisfied by using self-feed bits, in lieu of the forstner bits. Forstner bits are precision woodworking tools designed specifically for drilling flat bottom holes. A self feed bit has a screw pilot and far more aggressive cutting action. If you get a selfie bit started on a right angle drill, it will pull itself all the way through without you needing to apply much pressure. Give them a try, and I think you will never go back. Thank you for sharing all of your wisdom with us.
I'm not a dewalt guy by any means but I've found for the most part they make the best drill bits and step bits. I also don't like to use any bits in an impact driver. Always in a drill.
Amen brother those Milwaukee step bits are the bees knees. They last forever. And they have a 3 set kit. And I have drilled hundreds of holes with them and they are still going strong
The cheapest plain spade bits can be sharpened with a file. It’s nice to have a few older cheap ones like that, since you can sharpen them in the field.
man, get yourself a greenlee knockout kit.. never met a metal that my knockout wouldn't just pull through. We were punching holes through hardended steel boxes, cable tray, etc...
Fully with ya on the speed bits (forstner bits)
#4 Bosch paddle bit set - best!
I use 4 1/4" hole saw all the time in drywall for Potlight. Awesome channel btw!
I like the 18in ship auger bits for resi work. Can drill the top plate without a ladder.
auger bits are a must
The Irwin speedbor max bits are the shit.
I don't own paddle bits, and have no intention to ever own them again. if you need a clean hole, you should be using a hole saw, if you don't you should be using an auger.
and yes, you left out the ship auger. if you hit a nail with a forstner or planer bit, the bit is pretty much toast. a good ship auger will keep on going. but buy good ones.
Any reccomendations for holesaws used for 6" pot lights? I know it probably doenst matter much cause its just drywall.. but id rather just buy it once lol
i love the cobalt 6” holesaw. never lets our crew down.
Unibit tip never run too fast. It will burn them up. Better using a USA carbide hole saw. Up to 10 times faster with only 10% of hot chips. Stay away from lack of quality control cheating china carbide hole saws. All garbage. If you are drilling a lot of holes in old houses purchase greenlee nail eater bits. They will cut throw hidden nails with no problems. Greenlee makes two diameters of extra heavy duty drill bit extensions that last forever. Only broke one of them after drilling thousands of holes with it. Nice vid.
most drills have torque settings on them you move it from drill to 13 or lower just look up newton conversion etc
Love your videos man. Really enjoy the content and knowledge you offer. The intro music could be a little easier on the ears but its alright lol. Thank you for your time.
Irwin Speedboor! Love them. But on an impact they will shear off. Prefer the corded still for the 1” and 1.25”
Dustin, bro! I love your content! Show my apprentice your stuff all the time!
Aaron Widder how do I become an apprentice
omg yup union is the cheapest and easiest way
No, stay out of the union! Too much politics. Better to get on with a good company that will send you to school. I did the union thing, and it sucks! Everyone gets raises even if u work harder than them.
@@CorySands go union, you get top pay and no one is ever on your ass riding you
When you say “low speed” what setting are you using specifically? I’m an electrical helper and I’m trying to soak up any tips and tricks I can learn! Thanks
I used to use auger bits constantly during rough-in. Have these been replaced with forstners?
Walt Hodgson hell no, auger is what I prefer. No better way to send it. I use them all the time for old work
you don't need fancy Forstner bits, they are meant for blind holes in cabinet doors. For through holes, you want them self feed wood drilling bits, also expensive, but not finish woodworking level.
A pirate walks up to the bar with a steering wheel attached to his privates. Somebody asks "Hey, why is that steering wheel attached to your junk?" The pirate says "Argghh, it's drivin' me nuts!" Corny...ok lol
Real informative, most do not take the time to explain. Keep up the great videos.
Forstner bits are for drilling flat bottom blind holes. Just get some auger bits which missed the list somehow.
Impact step bits are the way to go based on only ONE thing. They lock into the driver so they won't fall out and break.
you want self-feed not forstners, forstners are are more for blind holes self-feed are for through drilling, milwaukee self-feed with the removable blades are good cause you can replaces all the wear parts.
#1 rule, since I am from Canada, no Phillips screws, if I have to install something that comes with Phillips screws, they are going to the trash and replace with Robertson screws, so we don't need to buy Phillips bits by the jumbo bag.
I personally live Robertson buts and screws. Alot of our screws can do both Philips and Robertson. I usually carry a robertson for those I can use on. If I wasn't in industrial/commercial and if the company supplied them I'd switch them all to robertsons if they'd let me lol
Do you share your building with a practicing band?
Pro Tip: the shanks that you put your Philips bits and such in is a 1/4" driver!
Dusten so you say to use some kind of oil with the bits which one do you recommend use?
I like Rapid Tap
Tap Magic
I love the locking nut driver bits, i dont understand why milwaukee made the non locking type. I also recommend a locking extension for thise bits.
Love all these videos - thank you. I have very high standards - and I think good preferences with tools etc --- and I have exact same thoughts on Everything that Dustin says!!! Tools, technique, reasons for doing things! It's reaffirming hearing it from Dustin.
I started out with a cheap Ryobi drill set about 20 years ago. Got back into electrical four (4) years ago - and been using Milwaukee ever since. Dewalt sleeve bit. Daredevil paddle bits. Method of putting recessed cans up. High speed oscillating tool is also CRUCIAL tool for electricians.
When I'm on resi jobs, I use a 7/8x6" long auger bit more than any other
Electrician U! the name says it all. I Love this show
One question, what is more essential and more efficient worth the money in the electrical work force ... a tool belt or tool bag?
My opinion for what it's worth: Tool bag for sure. Tool belt should only really carry essentials, too much crap hanging on you every day is going to cause physical health problems over time and you'll be bringing your tool bag with you just about every where anyway and for jobs you won't be you can fit the few tools you know you'll need into your pockets.
Depends on the type of work you do, I use a tool bag that has everything I might need, and I also use a small tool belt and carry what I need for the task of the day. Everything else stays in the truck, until I need it
Check out the Bosch nail strike paddle bits. They are designed to go thru nails
Lmaooo that pirate joke was solid
What is the last bit a guy will ever need? An Obit!
#2 Nut driver bits...stress any purchase should be magnetic. Nothing worse than friggin hex-head dumping out when you didn’t want it to.
Great Selection 👍🏽⚡️
That shark threaded point at the end is called a ship auger pilot bit
Do you actually have a torque wrench that you use. Every electrician I’ve talked to says that almost no electrician follows that rule.
While at an IAEI continuing education class they asked who owns or uses of a company toraue wrench. Might have been 5 guys out of over a hundred. Should send them out to be calibrated every year. Do not think anybody has an insulated torque wrench so even with PPE that is dangerous. Only shorted out a hot buss bar once. Had to go.out to my van and change my shorts.
@@garbo8962 Yeah, the only times my boss has instructed me to use a torque wrench is when we’re doing connecting cables that are going to carry like 63+ amps
@@huskypro1 He is wrong if you look at the 2020 NEC. Every electrical connection including receptacles & toggle switches must be tightened with a torque device. There is a great ex electrician/ inspector Ryan Jackson that along with Mike Holt produce the absolute best code & electrical vids. Ryan recently mentioned that somebody like UL checked hundreds of various electrical tetminations. Think the # was like 60% were not torqued enough 30% were correct and remainder had too much torque applied. If I was not retired and no longer doing any electrical work I would have a torque screwdriver for say screws on devices and a 3/8 or 1/2" torque wrench for larger stuff.
Your company will give you one if your ever terminating big wires in a panel which is not often. Those things have to be calibrated yearly as well so it's not something you can grab out of your garage.
Can anyone comment on the Milwaukee versus the Klein carbide hole cutter? And the winner of those versus the expensive greenlee? Ehich see.s better/longest lasting?
Would you consider any of the extended length drill bits as a contender to this list? I’m asking because I have no idea lol
For commercial 3/8 and 7/16 nut drivers are more common imo, just a note
Very informative. Keep up the good work.
I need to find an extension for my hole saws(klein, like was shown in the video) and step bits that have the rounded chuck, maybe 3/8 rounded.. every extension that I've seen is for 1/4, 3/8, hex and not the rounded ends on the step bits and hole saws.. Idk if they even make an extension for what I'm looking for but it'd be nice of they did.. I know someone out there has to know what I'm talking about, if anyone does please let me know
Awesome demo! I think Canadians like R’s too ,the vast majority of what we use is #6 Robertson haha
Dwayne Phillips I see what you did there 🤣
Does anyone know what kind of extensions to use when using a spade bit? I’ve gone through 4 in the past two weeks and they just keep breaking either they break the spade bit or the extensions. And I haven’t hit nail’s
Not electrical related but--
Another pirate joke
“Have you ever tasted seaman Billy?”
“No Captain Hind-grinder, but I’ve been blown ashore “
Ha ha ha
Check out Hougen from Germany they are the sharpest band long lasting in any industry
I'm sure you've seen them but I like the three quarter bit that is about 4 ft long. You can go through several studs without having to cut the sheetrock. Just found your channel cheers
I do have those as well, I'm thinking about doing a part 2 of this with a lot of "alternative bits" like flex bits, stubbies, etc that I'll definitely put that 4-footer on. Thanks for watching and thanks for the suggestion my friend!
@@ElectricianU Also, add a 6" hole saw bit for the large recessed/can lights in drywall and drop ceiling. I use mine with a plastic bowl to catch the dust, and I can usually install 6 recessed lights within an hour.
Great content thanks man!!!
Should this be stuff that my employer or I buy???? One foreman at work told me not to use my personal stuff because they should be buying it but another foreman, same company told me to use my own. Any help or advise please.
Company should buy them but the foreman should teach you how to use them especially the carbide bits low speed
in a union shop, the company should be providing ALL those bits. non union, you're frequently on your own.
hey will love to see a video comparing different clamp meters
Have you ever used malco combination 1/4 and 5/16?
Greenlee has some really good Masonry bits too but can be pricey compared to Bosch.
the thing about Greenlee is none of the tools they make are the best example of that tool - but they are usually good enough and they make the most variety.
Awesome video thank you for all the information. that joke was funny😂😂
It's a good one right?? hahaha
It's terrible man... and the fact that you cracked up over it shows that you're getting old. That being said, I'm getting old too and love terrible dad jokes. The worst dad jokes always get the most laughs and work groups that laugh together work best together.
I have the Klein Carbide hope saw and the 3/4” broke on the first use. 🤣
They’re like $45 each at Home Depot in Georgia... I don’t recommend them.
Buy the ideal brand instead very reliable
how do i ask questions
I've got a step bit from HF. Still sitting in it's package.
milwaukee unit bits are life warranty?
Fostners are to make a clean hole without chip out at the edge of the hole. Use where you don't want to damage cosmetics of the wood surface.
and where you know there is no chance of hitting a nail.
Greenlee makes the best unibits
+1, greenlee step bits are the best.
Hey Dustin what about the drill and tap bits
pro tip alien ones have a warranty you get them replaced for free at the supply house
Lol the 8 dislikes are pirates 😂
Where was this channel when I started? Had to buy and test what I needed...so much money wasted
What about self feed forstner bits?
I go Wood Owl with a hole hawg
Do you play fortnite
Great video!
Glad we deal with metric sizes in the UK.
and I'm glad we don't in the US. it's a lot easier to remember half and 3/4 inch than it is to try to memorize the metric equivalents.
U should talk bout tapping bits too
I have all your bits but the foster bits and you missed a very important one, the gator bit
7/8" Ship Auger Drill Bit???
U should link where to get the tools youre showing
great idea, check the description I just added them for you. Thanks!
no nail eaters 1" is my favorite
How do I live without you
My foreman has all of this. I just use his stuff.
BWAHAHAHAHAAA !! Oh good GOD man, well done good dir !!! Way to segway right into the ultimate cheeser dad joke PIRATE JOKE in there mate !!
Something akin, no shit since we're all being REAL here, it's something just exactly like I myself would/will/love doing myself !!!
P.S. - I'm sooo going to use your PIRATE joke in to my vernacular and repertoire this week at some point; then include the little gem forever !! 😜
Wonderful and highly accurate + valuable information sir !! Thank you for sharing my friend !
Hahahah I'm glad you liked it my dude, use it as you wish - it sticks the landing well in all company =)
@@ElectricianU it's like they say right: IT JUST AIN'T EASY BEING CHEEZY !! 😃 (especially well)