Thank you for this video. If I can make a useful suggestion.....place a magnet near the base near each wheel and it will catch most of the metal shavings so you are not inhaling them or it becomes mixed with dust in the air. It is a very cheap way to make your shop a little safer.
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning I used to make magic tricks for magicians and I used rare earth magnets a lot so I knew this trick way before watching Kent, but he still provides some great ideas on his channel.
I am extremely happy that you made the move successfully and were able to get the repairs made to get you back in the shop. Everyone that watches your channel faithfully hopes this new beginning is even better.
Thank you very much, unfourtually its video I film in old shop , I have one or two that I filmed before moving start.... But the work is going on nicely☺️
Excellent video. I've been trying to do this with one of my gouges that will no longer fit in the sharpening jig. This explanation was very helpful -- it showed me what I'm doing wrong. Will now update my technique and try again.
I like this freehand method and have used similar technique for many years. We have to be willing to waste a bit of metal to first get the hang of it. If you can learn woodturning by freehand then you can surely learn to sharpen freehand.
I wish you had shown the cut you got from the factory edge when you first unpacked it on half the pine block, and the cut you get from the thumbnail grind on the other half of the pine block. That would have been really impressive! Please do more sharpening videos!!
Yaaay! First comment on one of my favourite turners! Thanks. I have the Wolverine and Sorby ProEdge, but would love to learn to sharpen my tools freehand.
this will help to reshape and resharp some gouges made of rusp or unknown steel and too deep flute. thanks Tomica. puno uspjeha u radovima doma . srdač poz
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning I agree, I've got my two starting gouges that are getting too short to fit in the jig without grinding down the barstock. I may give it a go again soon. I like the concept of the asymmetric gouge.
Hi Tomislav thank you for all your videos they have helped me immensely. Is the spindle gouge the crown cryo or the cryo m42 please as i need a new one. Cheers Les. 😊😊
I've seen both you and Richard demonstrate this a couple of times. Tried it a bit but I need more practice. It's too easy to go back to the jig. But that doesn't mean I don't see the value. Just need to practice more. A lot more. Thanks for the demo again.
Another great video, thank you. You are an excellent teacher. One question. After the final pass on the CBN wheel, I noticed som slight burrs on the edges. I get those too. Do you not worry about them?
Nope,I use gouges straight from grinder, burr on that kind of sharp edge will disepered in few seconds. Don't worry about it but if you like honing your gouges, nothing wrong with that
My biggest challenge with the whole wood turning process is sharpening my tools. I use a sharpening system which helps, but also limits the shapes and edges I can achieve. Thanks for this demonstration.
Thank you for this! I have seen sharpening units and all the bits that go with it that costs more than I paid for the lathe. I have been searching online as I felt there had to be another way. Now I see this I am feeling more confident about trying. I may well have a go with a diamond coated lapidary wheel on the lathe - that is much cheaper than a CBN wheel and grinder.
I like to practice this technique when my tools are getting short but i need to do it more than that to grt good at it. Practice! practice! practice! Thanks as usual Tomislav and good luck with the new shop.
I have been doing more sharpening without a jig and it is nice to build that skill up a bit. So thanks for continuing to share about this. The term "fingernail grind" is something we all hear and see frequently. I'll fess up and admit I'm still not sure what part of all those profiles on the end of the gouge the term refers to. You made it sound like it is just the curvature across the nose of the gouge. That must be it.
Yup, that's it. Very good description, & video Tomasic. I really like deliberate method and detail that you show. I stumbled on your site very recently. Hope your move is going well. Your vids showing your homeland are beautiful.
Tomoslav, I really like your great videos. Thank you for sharing your experience with us. I do have a question about sharpening my bowl gouges. When we sharpen a scraper it develops a burr on the top edge and the burr is what does the cutting when using the scraper. But what about a bowl or spindle gouge? They also develop a burr when sharpened. My question is should I remove the burr from the gouge? It seems like it would be a hindrance to getting a good cut because the gouge is positioned differently when cutting with it. I haven’t notice anyone removing the burr in all the videos I have watched but it seems like it is a reasonable thing to do to get the best results. Can you please share your opinion on this? Thank you.
Also burr on gouges since they can remove a lot of wood is gone in few seconds so I would not bother with that... I will hone the gouges for specific task but never to remove on purpose the burr... But that doesn't mean that you don't do that, if you like results with removening burr then go for it, that is beauty of turning, soo many different ways to do same task🤗
So you don't remove that bur with a rounded strop? Can you raise the burr like you do with a negative rake scraper then, with a burnishing rod? And do you have a good method for a 40/40 grind?
I use gouges straight from the grinder, never bother with the stroop or raising the burr as gouges are cutting tools, what you have describe will work great on scrapers and I do that but not on gouges.... I do sometimes hone the gouge to shear scrape better but 99% I use them from the grinder without any other prep
Thank you, well some say it will ruin your cbn, I did sharpen carbon steel tools on cbn but since then I don't have any left apart for really special ones like inlay cutter. I would reccomend that you sharpen carbon steel on white or grey wheel just in case
I have what appears to be the same sharpening system on my grinder. I use the V pocket rather than freehand. It seems to work for reshaping a new spindle tool, although I confess I’ve been turning too far to the right and left and will correct that. Is there any harm in using the V pocket versus freehand shaping a new tool? Is there any advantage to freehand sharpening?
Hi, I realize the shop move requires enormous time & energy, so no worries if you can't reply. Know this video is about freehand sharpening, but I have neither your keen eye nor steady hand. Question . . . How far to rotate using jig?
Biggest advantage is speed of sharpening and touch you develop by freehand sharpening.... That will transfer on the lathe so you don't force anything into the wood rather the tool do its job when wood comes around
Thank you for this video. If I can make a useful suggestion.....place a magnet near the base near each wheel and it will catch most of the metal shavings so you are not inhaling them or it becomes mixed with dust in the air. It is a very cheap way to make your shop a little safer.
Thank you very much,I know about that and I'll do that in new shop 😀, not sure why I never put magnets in this one😄
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning I used to make magic tricks for magicians and I used rare earth magnets a lot so I knew this trick way before watching Kent, but he still provides some great ideas on his channel.
Another fantastic video! Thanks to you and Richard I sharpen everything freehand with no issues.
Thanks for this, helped me a lot😊
VERY impressive!!! I love every thing you do, and have learned SO much from your videos, Thank you for your wonderful teaching abilities.
I am extremely happy that you made the move successfully and were able to get the repairs made to get you back in the shop. Everyone that watches your channel faithfully hopes this new beginning is even better.
Thank you very much, unfourtually its video I film in old shop , I have one or two that I filmed before moving start.... But the work is going on nicely☺️
You know it is sharp when you can turn pine that cleanly. Thank you for this video
Excellent video. I've been trying to do this with one of my gouges that will no longer fit in the sharpening jig. This explanation was very helpful -- it showed me what I'm doing wrong. Will now update my technique and try again.
Thank you for great video. Hope all is good with the shop progress
Thanks Tommi, I just bought some 2nd hand chisels, some of them are a bit short for sharpening jigs, so I’ll give this a try.
I like this freehand method and have used similar technique for many years. We have to be willing to waste a bit of metal to first get the hang of it. If you can learn woodturning by freehand then you can surely learn to sharpen freehand.
I wish you had shown the cut you got from the factory edge when you first unpacked it on half the pine block, and the cut you get from the thumbnail grind on the other half of the pine block. That would have been really impressive! Please do more sharpening videos!!
Good suggestion, I'll see on one of the next videos in the future to do something similar
Yaaay! First comment on one of my favourite turners! Thanks. I have the Wolverine and Sorby ProEdge, but would love to learn to sharpen my tools freehand.
Another good video. When I reach your level of expertise, I'll sharpen by hand. But until then I'll be getting jiggy with it.
This is an eye opener for me. I much appreciate the video. I am going to try this method. Thank you, happy to have found your channel.
Thank you very much
Fantastic video. Very useful....thanks
this will help to reshape and resharp some gouges made of rusp or unknown steel and too deep flute. thanks Tomica. puno uspjeha u radovima doma . srdač poz
Great video Buddy! You're such a skilled craftsman. I try this from time to time but usually default back to the jig. One day though😂
Thanks buddy, its just practice and persistance..... you will ruin some steel but at the end you'll see lots of benefiths
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning I agree, I've got my two starting gouges that are getting too short to fit in the jig without grinding down the barstock. I may give it a go again soon. I like the concept of the asymmetric gouge.
Thanks for video, very helpful. Hope the progress is good on the new shop.
Thank you,its coming along nicely, hopefully in week or soo I'll get machines in
Very informative (as always) Thanks!
Well explained
Thank-you. Very informative.
Great instruction video!!!
I've just bought a cbn wheel, I wish I'd bought one ages ago.
Big thanks as usual.
🕶very helpful
Thanks Tomislav
Hi Tomislav thank you for all your videos they have helped me immensely. Is the spindle gouge the crown cryo or the cryo m42 please as i need a new one. Cheers Les. 😊😊
It was m2 CRYOGENIC, but I would recommend m42, it is a bit more expensive but worth it
Great video as always 🤠🇨🇱
I've seen both you and Richard demonstrate this a couple of times. Tried it a bit but I need more practice. It's too easy to go back to the jig. But that doesn't mean I don't see the value. Just need to practice more. A lot more. Thanks for the demo again.
Another great video, thank you. You are an excellent teacher. One question. After the final pass on the CBN wheel, I noticed som slight burrs on the edges. I get those too. Do you not worry about them?
Nope,I use gouges straight from grinder, burr on that kind of sharp edge will disepered in few seconds.
Don't worry about it but if you like honing your gouges, nothing wrong with that
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning Thanks so much. I have started doing the same and all good. I have learned so much from you
My biggest challenge with the whole wood turning process is sharpening my tools. I use a sharpening system which helps, but also limits the shapes and edges I can achieve. Thanks for this demonstration.
Thank you for this! I have seen sharpening units and all the bits that go with it that costs more than I paid for the lathe. I have been searching online as I felt there had to be another way. Now I see this I am feeling more confident about trying. I may well have a go with a diamond coated lapidary wheel on the lathe - that is much cheaper than a CBN wheel and grinder.
I like to practice this technique when my tools are getting short but i need to do it more than that to grt good at it. Practice! practice! practice! Thanks as usual Tomislav and good luck with the new shop.
Another great video - showing the JOY of working with SHARP tools!
I have been doing more sharpening without a jig and it is nice to build that skill up a bit. So thanks for continuing to share about this. The term "fingernail grind" is something we all hear and see frequently. I'll fess up and admit I'm still not sure what part of all those profiles on the end of the gouge the term refers to. You made it sound like it is just the curvature across the nose of the gouge. That must be it.
Yup, that's it. Very good description, & video Tomasic. I really like deliberate method and detail that you show.
I stumbled on your site very recently.
Hope your move is going well. Your vids showing your homeland are beautiful.
Tomoslav, I really like your great videos. Thank you for sharing your experience with us. I do have a question about sharpening my bowl gouges. When we sharpen a scraper it develops a burr on the top edge and the burr is what does the cutting when using the scraper. But what about a bowl or spindle gouge? They also develop a burr when sharpened. My question is should I remove the burr from the gouge? It seems like it would be a hindrance to getting a good cut because the gouge is positioned differently when cutting with it. I haven’t notice anyone removing the burr in all the videos I have watched but it seems like it is a reasonable thing to do to get the best results. Can you please share your opinion on this? Thank you.
I never remove burr from gouges, I just use them straight from grinder, I never accually remove burr unless I pull the burr with burnisher on scrapers
Also burr on gouges since they can remove a lot of wood is gone in few seconds so I would not bother with that... I will hone the gouges for specific task but never to remove on purpose the burr... But that doesn't mean that you don't do that, if you like results with removening burr then go for it, that is beauty of turning, soo many different ways to do same task🤗
So you don't remove that bur with a rounded strop? Can you raise the burr like you do with a negative rake scraper then, with a burnishing rod?
And do you have a good method for a 40/40 grind?
I use gouges straight from the grinder, never bother with the stroop or raising the burr as gouges are cutting tools, what you have describe will work great on scrapers and I do that but not on gouges.... I do sometimes hone the gouge to shear scrape better but 99% I use them from the grinder without any other prep
Great video. What’s your thoughts on using a CBN wheel to sharpen carbon steel tools?
Thank you, well some say it will ruin your cbn, I did sharpen carbon steel tools on cbn but since then I don't have any left apart for really special ones like inlay cutter.
I would reccomend that you sharpen carbon steel on white or grey wheel just in case
Great information for those of us who are still finding our way.
Hi Tomislav, is this the same angle/tip you use for the spindle gouge that you like to use on bowls for rough shaping. Thank you.
Yes, I don't change angles 😀
Yes, 10 & 2 freehand. But he drops the handle for the sides. Not possible using the jig.
Thank you sir!
What grit would you prefer on your CBN wheel?
Maybe 80grit for rough shaping and for scrapers.... But this one works great as well...I would not go any finer then this
I have what appears to be the same sharpening system on my grinder. I use the V pocket rather than freehand. It seems to work for reshaping a new spindle tool, although I confess I’ve been turning too far to the right and left and will correct that. Is there any harm in using the V pocket versus freehand shaping a new tool? Is there any advantage to freehand sharpening?
Hi, I realize the shop move requires enormous time & energy, so no worries if you can't reply. Know this video is about freehand sharpening, but I have neither your keen eye nor steady hand. Question . . . How far to rotate using jig?
@@ralphspinardi6903 wouldn’t the rotation be the same either freehand or using the jig? Ten and two I think Tomislav said. I’ll watch it again.
Yes, 10 & 2. But with the jig you can't drop the handle for the sides.@DancingFox6
@@ralphspinardi6903 that’s a matter of adjusting the leg on the gadget that holds the tool - 🤔 ‘’vari-grind attachment’’ I think it’s called.
Biggest advantage is speed of sharpening and touch you develop by freehand sharpening.... That will transfer on the lathe so you don't force anything into the wood rather the tool do its job when wood comes around
You make it look so easy I will keep trying with your grind. By the time I master this you will have your own special grind in the shops lol
It is a practice but once you got the hang of it its easy and fast
Thank you very much