I appreciate all the feedback on these amp repair videos, but please keep in mind I do not do repairs for a living and I really can't provide answers to your questions. If an amp is not literally sitting on my workbench, I cannot diagnose it for you. Please consult a local repair shop, I only posted my videos for entertainment purposes. I do appreciate the views and the comments but again I can't really provide any more assistance than what is already in the video..
I have a crown xti 40002 and all I had was 4 cerwin Vegas hooked up to it I bought this thing used and it's worked good until today I wasn't even driving it that hard to where it was red lining or anything but it ...
Thank you so much for the feedback. I really did try to just sum up the problem without getting into extreme detail, unfortunately it started raining so the audio isn't great, but overall the video made its point. I'm just happy that after a good couple years it's still relevant, as these amps are all over the place, due to cinemas closing down, etc...
Unfortunately it did only help partially. The amp now powers on briefly, then powers off with a click and then powers on again without a click and stays on, nothing on the display except "ready" level on each level meter. The unit is accessible over USB but the front display shows a dim backlight, no text, and the encoders do nothing. Any ideas what this might be? The amp Seems to work, I tested with pink noise via the bandmanager2 software
Oh, I just checked the 5V rail for the LCD, it's 2.5 Volts. That Might explain why it's not happy. . Seems the LCD has its own voltage rail controlled by a 5Volt regulator 78M05. The Vin for that regulator is 29.1V Which is within spec, but the output is only 2.5V so maybe it is faulty?
Haha yeah, it started raining just as I hit "record", and I have a window A/C unit in that room... it was just a quick 'n' dirty video, so I didn't put a whole lot of effort into this one. I do have another Crown Amp video from that same time period that sounds better :)
That's cool man. I bought 4... x 4000s as well as four other crown xtis. They're confusing me. Just trying to get them back for simple operation on my JBL speakers in my band. I'll keep watching. Keep up the good work brother!
Glad to hear it! It is worth noting that it is generally a good idea to replace pretty much all of those light blue capacitors, I believe those are rated at a relatively low temperature and as you probably are aware, the temperature is inside the amplifier can get somewhat above that rating
I was just gifted with an crown xti2002 and is having problems getting to power on and I believe it could be the capacitor as well but I want to know where and what kind of capacitor do I need.
I did a more in-depth video about a year before this one, it should have linked to it at the end of this video but here's the link: ruclips.net/video/6dUT3sxJtqo/видео.html For future viewers, I have pinned a comment linking to the prior video that gives a lot more detail. Long story short it is capacitor C196, located just to the left of the power switch. It is a 220 microfarad capacitor rated at 35 volts, which isn't enough. I always replace it with a 50 volt version but keep that 220 microfarad rating so that it operates correctly. That just lets it handle the slightly higher voltage spikes that often occur. Sadly they still haven't fixed this design flaw and even newer amps often have similar issues...
I just realized you said 2002 not 2000. It should be similar but the board layout may be a little bit different as the 2002 is a newer model. I recommend looking for any capacitor about that size that looks damaged, and he bulges on the top of the can or any leakage underneath. Any capacitors that look damaged should be replaced but specifically the startup capacitor should have a slightly higher voltage rating than what they put in. Hope this helps.
You can actually twist the cap out from the top, unsolder the leads, clear the solder holes with a vacuum station & solder the new part in without having to remove the board at all.
I'll be honest, after fixing half a dozen of these amps with the exact same problem, that thought did not occur to me :) That would bring it down to about a 2 minute repair, mostly removing/replacing the cover screws!
Thank you for your help. I removed the motherboard from my xti1002 with no difficulties but I failed to take a picture before inverting the board and the 2 metal straps on the board supporting the speaker binding post were not captive and fell off. 1 remained on the positive terminal but not sure if the other was on the other positive terminal. Can you enlighten me please? Thanks Ed
Give me a day or two, I haven't opened one of these up in a while. I'll have to dig through footage or photos from when I originally published these videos, maybe I can point you in the right direction. But again, give me a day or two, it's the first of the month at this point and I have a lot going on... I recently acquired an XLS 1002, which is a different species but hopefully I can make that thing work again and another video will be forthcoming if that pans out. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment. If I can help in any way on the xti 1002, I will do my best. But again give me a couple days 😀
If I have time tomorrow, one of my xti 1002 amps has crapped out on me. It's like just a couple of screws, maybe I can take a picture of the inside of that so you can see how it should go back together... No promises, but if I find a little extra time, I've been wanting to open that one up anyway..
Honestly I never did look that far into it. I just knew that capacitor was failed and stuck a higher voltage rated version in its place... It was intended as a quick fix, and since it turned out we had several amps with the exact same issue, I just went through the motions on the rest lol without really giving it much thought. It's been a good couple years and most of them are still in service, they're on 24/7... But good to know for future reference
Hi Justin, thanks for the video. I have an I -t6000. That has a flashing power indicator. And sometimes will just turn on and off. Do you think it’s the same issue?
I honestly couldn't tell you without having that particular amp on my bench... I can only speak to the XTI/DSI series that I show in my videos, and only to that one particular power-on issue... Wish I could be more helpful...
I have a no power XTI 4000 , is the repair the same as the 1000? Also do they use the same replacement capacitor that you are suggesting? Thank you for all the help.
I haven't had the privilege of opening up a 4000, but I imagine it is similar if not the same board -- if you open it up, and the board looks exactly like mine (but with more components on it), and there is that same capacitor near the power switch, the possibly this fix could work... I couldn't tell you without seeing one for myself however...
Have the XTI 1002 and does not power on. Did the capacitor replacement. No change. Tested removed capacitor and it was good. Tested resistors and the show resistance. Tested all the transistors, 1 tests bad . The one right next to the 2 relays. Do not know if that could be the problem. Any advice? How do I know what transistor to use in the replacement. Looking for the schematics and parts is tough to locate. Thanks for the videos.
I think the bottom line is, these amps are well designed and can run for many years quite reliably. However everything degrades over time, so if you truly want the amp to run like new, the more passive components you replace, the longer it is likely to last into the future. Capacitors, resistors, perhaps even the power transistors which are not all that expensive, could potentially add years to an old inefficient amplifier. The power supply circuitry is a little more tricky but the same basic principles apply: replace anything that looks physically over stressed, or tests out of spec. I still have three dead ones ranging from the XTI 1000 to a four-channel 4000, that I plan on doing a complete overhaul with partly for the video sake and partly just to have another Kick-Ass amp 😁 I will probably look for the best looking candidate that at least attempts to power on when I have the time to do that project. Stay tuned to this channel...
Have you worked on the Crown CDi1000? I have a unit that will not complete power on and does not have the set of through hole resistors and the C198 near power switch that you replace in your video. Really like your get right to it video style. Any advice? The only thing observed on my circuit board is a bulged capacitor top (C815) right near the back of the LCD display. This has a small inductor and other small SMPS components.
I have worked on a CDI 1000, but it's probably an older unit. I'm sure some of the components on the board are relabeled or even rearranged. It's been a while since I worked on a Crown amp, but I do have a XLS 1002 in my possession that puts out audio but only sometimes, and has display issues including both thermal lights lighting up even when it's cold LOL. So I am going to jump back into the crown amp repair situation, hopefully I can return some information that might help. But if you've got a CDI model that I don't have on hand, honestly without looking at it first hand, I don't know that I can help. But at least I can gleam from some of the newer and older amps made by Crown, what changes have been made over the years
I have a crown xti 40002 and all I had was 4 cerwin Vegas hooked up to it I bought this thing used and it's worked good until today I wasn't even driving it that hard to where it was red lining or anything but it started flashing and slowly turned off but there was a weird thumping noise through the speakers even with it off how much would you charge me to fix it I'll send it to you
Is this repair the same for the Crown XLS202 amplifier. I have same issue, won’t power on. I have been pushing it very hard today and it died. Would like to save it. Also, should i upgrade to beefier amp for heavy rap bass?
I have an XTI 2000 that has worked great for years but died in the middle of a show yesterday. Now it keeps shutting itself off every time i turn it on. I can get sound out of it very briefly before it shuts down. Do you still repair these amps? I wonder if mine is repairable.
If the amplifier gets through the initial power up sequence, to the point where you're actually hearing audio, the problem is not likely the same problem I show in this video. It could be a power supply issue or it could be something bad in one of the output stages... Either way it's a little beyond the scope of this particular video. I'm sure it is fixable, but it would need to go to someone with a workbench and the proper test equipment. Best of luck, I hope the steers you in the right direction. Thanks for watching
It couldn't hurt to go ahead and try to replace that capacitor, it may be in the early stage of this particular failure... It would only cost a few cents and a few minutes of your time if you are comfortable soldering and all that fun stuff. Just keep in mind the high voltages that could be stored in the input capacitors, I have another video somewhere on his channel from years ago, just look for a similar thumbnail in my video list lol just a stack of amps... I believe in that older video I show how to discharge the capacitors and all that. Again best of luck
I dug around my current PC and didn't find the software... I *know* I downloaded it, and updated the firmware, and was even able to save presets on the amp... I will have to find where I originally downloaded it from... I believe since this video is a few years old, that I did that at least one PC build ago... the old machine is actually in another room, I'll dig around there, see if it's still hiding in a downloads folder or something. Either way I'll reply back hopefully with a link...
Actually a very brief search yielded this: www.crownaudio.com/en/software It's been a while, but I do believe one of those downloads lets you simply plug in the USB, fiddle with the serial port settings, and eventually gain some control/insight into the amp. I would test it out but I don't have the time at the moment... let us all know if you are successful and how it went :)
Also here, you can find the actual service manuals, and other downloads by model: www.crownaudio.com/en/support_downloads -- the technical manual is very detailed and is what I used when I first started opening these things up...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thanks Justin. So i have a very early model that was built before those software came out. They dont see the amplifire. I need Cloader to get it to the latest version and then the new software will see the amp. :)
I have 8 crown xs1200. 3 of them go into fault mode . I'm running them on my dual 18 subwoofers. Some of them have worked great for years. I'd love some direction in figuring out this problem
If it gets through the power-up sequence, that capacitor is most likely not the problem. That capacitors only job is to charge to a certain point, after which the rest of the power supply is allowed to power up. It's basically part of a timer circuit, though a little more complex than that... If it's going into protect mode, most likely you've got a DC short somewhere, possibly a bad transistor stuck on causing a current overload... I would definitely take it to a professional and have them go through the unit on a workbench
That is a monster of an amp I haven't personally encountered. I do know the 4-channel amps are a bit more condensed (more channels = more components), and the power supplies tend to be a little more complicated... sorry wish I could help, but without first hand experience with that particular amp, I would suggest searching for the service manual/schematic... they are available, just a little hard to find
The fan control is a completely different part of the circuit. I believe it is controlled by the temperature of the heat sinks, so it could be the thermistor that senses the heat or it could be the control circuit. Either way sorry, I don't do this for a living just a hobby
I have a crown xls drivecore 2502 all of a sudden wont power up. I have it disassembled everything looks normal no swollen caps ect. Also cant find any schematics on it. Can u help?
The fastest way would be to take an insulated wire, and ground out BOTH heat sinks to the chassis -- BUT the best way would be to have a resistor inline *or* wait a while, the capacitors WILL self discharge after some time... Just note that you have a positive rail, and a negative rail, so simply shorting the two together *could* backwards-charge one rail... so always reference to zero volts (chassis ground) when discharging each.
The only advise I can give without having the unit in my possession, is to check the ribbon cable that powers the front panel. If it has come loose (the fronts of these fall off very easily when not rack mounted), that could be the problem... otherwise, I'd have to see it for myself, sorry.
in your opinion are Crown amplifiers worth the extra $$$ over QSC ? i have a QSC PLX 2402 and it always sounded great but the fan is stupid loud and after all these years the volume / gain knobs got a little rusty and sometimes they lose signal and i have to fiddle with them a bit to get a good contact. although i definitely feel i got my money's worth with QSC given the power and and the sound quality i at the same time feel a truly quality product shouldn't have had those two issues i described. do you think Crown is the same just more expensive or is it overall a better brand ?
I have used the QSC amps in the past. They are good amps, but make sure to read the *actual* specs. A Crown that says 2000, actually puts out 2000 Watts RMS at the rated load (say, 4-ohms per channel). Where the QSC are generally quoting "peak" wattage, which is marketing garbage. In the fine print you'll find the actual RMS wattage output to be roughly half the "peak" wattage... just my opinion (don't want to get sued for slander :) )
@@JustinNelsonsProjects i hear what you're saying ... i originally got my PLX for audiophile purposes ( not to push raw power ) as it was a very clean amp for its time, but in the end it was a huge mistake due to the fan noise. worst of all they learned nothing from their mistakes as the new PLD uses the same fan and heatsink setup as my PLX with only 2 fan speeds and an always-on fan that is very loud even with no music playing ( just like my PLX ). if i didn't have the PLX i wouldn't believe the reviews of how bad the fan is on the PLD but sadly i believe it.
@@g1981c When cranked, these Crown amps do kick in a rather loud fan (mine are about 10 years old though, they may just need new fans). But the DSI series were intended for cinema use. Tons of raw power, really clean sound even when cranked, and usually (In that setting) they reside in a rack off in a separate, temperature controlled room. Note that the fans can be replaced with a standard 12V PC fan ...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects in my use i do not foresee cranking the amps very often and if i do hopefully at that point it gets loud enough that fan noise is not an issue. the problem with QSC is the fan is on and loud the moment you flip the power switch even with no input signal. i currently use it to watch movies at night and in some scenes my room at night gets completely silent and that PLX fan going "WEEEEEEE" is literally the loudest thing in the room and just ruins the suspense ... that said, i am only considering class D amps now, in no small part because they require less cooling and therefore can *potentially* have quieter fans, though in case of QSC PLD it seems that potential was wasted.
@@g1981c if you're comfortable opening it up, they do make quieter fans. Measure it, check the voltage on the label, and match it to a super quiet PC fan. I guarantee you will notice a difference. The crowns only turn the fans on when they get hot, they actually have a temp sensor on the heat sink which is one of the reasons I like them. I only really hear the fans after the song ends lol
The ones I specifically own came out of a restaurant. However they are commonly used in movie theaters, driving each of the different audio channels. They're mostly meant for permanent installation, not really DJ type stuff...
I have a xti 4002 when I turn on amplifier speaker makes static popping sound, and display is lit but blank no red meter showing. Could this be a blown fuse?
I honestly can't diagnose an amp that's not sitting on my desk... but I would be careful about hooking up any speakers you care about to it, until it has been properly diagnosed and repaired by someone local to you...
Sorry, unless I had that amp on my bench, I wouldn't know where to even begin. I'm not familiar with that particular model, but I imagine that the manual must mention what a flashing power LED might indicate
Ok thanks. The manual says the light flashes when the AC power is above or below normal. Not the case. When I scope the ON button I can see the signal going to the 2nd power supply stage but it won't start up. One of these amps sold for parts only on ebay. It had the same problem and the tech gave up on it.
Sorry, I don't generally do repairs for others. I mostly work on my own stuff, whether it's electronics or cars. Besides, I'm in the Midwest. Surely there is a local electronics shop somewhere in Jersey...
First, I don't run an audio repair shop. I just had a buttload of broken amps that all had the same problem, and wanted to demonstrate how quickly it could be fixed. I wasn't really concerned in this particular case how about quality or damaging something. It was more of a speed run for the video. This particular one has other issues including an extremely loud thud on power off (a problem I already knew it had before the capacitor failure problem). I already knew that amp wasn't going back into production service. I do however use it on a pair of monitor speakers in my little Studio to this day. On the 2000 watt versions and another 1000, I did take more time and care, in fact those went back into service at the restaurant they came from, and have been running 24/7 ever since. I do all the maintenance there and I'm responsible for the audio as part of that, many different zones etc. When I took over that job, half the zones did not work because of those amp failures. The ones that I was able to repair went back into service, after a bit of testing here at the house. Obviously we also purchased some new amps where needed. In summary, I'm more than happy to stay away from your audio equipment 😁 This kind of work is not a normal part of my day job, just a hobby.
I don't see any repair videos if the xti 4000 and xti 4002 The capacitor in question is a completely different number, mine will not switch on and that capacitor don't seem to be at fault
This video is SPECIFICALLY about the amplifier shown -- I cannot diagnose an amplifier I do not have access to... you'll have to look elsewhere for a video specifically on the 4000/4002 series...
Working on a CTs-2000 with blown output transistors but can't get the correct part numbers to obtain replacements. Any idea how to either get a schematic or obtain the correct part numbers?
If you do a deep dive on Google, you should be able to find a PDF of the service manual. I had a copy for the DTS at some point, and I just remember spending a few hours on Google until I ran across it... Otherwise, look at places like mouser.com or digikey or even just Google and try cross-referencing the numbers on the transistors to find an equivalent.
I have a xti 2000 and xti 4000. Can I send you a video of what they are doing. Both do something different. Hopefully you can help me get these fixed. Crown wants $265 bench fee and it goes up from there.
Sorry, see the pinned comment. I get this question quite a lot but unfortunately I don't have time or really honestly the skills to do like a full service repair shop. I do software and I do General Building mostly lol...
Of all the amplifiers I have fixed since posting this video, I sold three and I've kept three for my own use. One of mine failed so I'm down to the two at this point.
I have a Crown 1002 XTI Series amp that will turn on just long enough to tell me "DSP is off" before shutting down. Do you imagine it's the same issue and same repair?
It is doubtful, because this particular repair fixes the issue where the app doesn't even attempt to power up. I would recommend checking all capacitors on the circuit board, especially around the power supply, as a starting point.
Sorry I don't do repairs for others. It's just a hobby of mine, I wouldn't feel comfortable repairing an amp and risking something going bad with it later on... Of the five I repaired that day, two of them have since died...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects They died from some other failure mode, I assume? Wondering if the higher voltage rating could cause problems. I have the schematic for my XTi 2002, but didn't find the circuit for C196 on a quick skim. The input power section is so cramped it's a bit of a pain to probe out the circuit. I powered off the amp to do some rewiring and it wouldn't power back on. If C196 is actually a drain for the bigger caps, your logic on the failure makes sense. Its sister amp (basically the exact same number of hours and program material throughout its life) is doing just fine, but I ordered up enough caps to do both. Have you seen any other culprits for no power on failures?
I'm sorry but without having the amp physically on my workbench to probe around in, I honestly can't offer much help here. There are many different things that could cause these amps to power off, too many to even list. I wish I could help further 😕
Awesome video! I inherited an XTI that wasn't powering on. Noticed the person had pulled out the two large capacitors c57&c58 as well as pulled the fuse. Changed those, changed the small one you suggested. Now I have a Low Line error, and I can't seem to find much info about it other than my voltage is below 105. I know that's not right. Any ideas?
The only specific issue I happen to be familiar with is the one in the video, because I ran across so many amps that had that exact problem with the underrated capacitor. As far as troubleshooting a low line voltage error, somewhere out there on the internet is an actual service manual for the XTI and DSI series... When I find that link again I'll post the link, it's directly from Harman kardon or crown's website I forget which. You might be able to find it with some Google and it will help you with measuring voltages at various test points, just be careful measuring on a live board obviously :-)
Yes I was trying to do it in a hurry to show how quickly the repair could be done lol. Normally I take a little more time and patience and don't bend everything up like that
Sorry I wouldn't know without having the amp on my bench... It could be any number of things, I would take it to a local shop or find someone who knows electronics really well local to you and go from there
For those of you who want a little more in-depth video on this repair, I filmed one a year prior to this video. It should link at the end but it doesn't always so I will pin the link to the more in-depth video here: ruclips.net/video/6dUT3sxJtqo/видео.html
Is it getting proper ventilation? Is the fan running when you drive the amp? It sounds like some components are simply worn out, and excess heat can accelerate that process... Wish I could be of more help but he may need to get someone qualified to look through it
since the first day i bought this amp, the fan will only run if i push it hard enough(volume led hit at least orange color), the fan never run on low volume even if the amp is running for long period with the casing metals getting very warm.
i took it to a repair man, after checking he said some IC might be faulty thus triggering the protection mode to cut the power. Yet he is unable to be certain nor fix it.
@@careles3520 That has been my experience with the XTIs as well - the fans only kick in when pushed very hard. Normal listening levels, even when the casing feels quite warm, no fan action. But a few seconds of thumping bass, and they are in full force. This is by design, it keeps the fans from wearing out prematurely, and keeps the internal temperature of the entire system at an equilibrium...
Just to follow up on that last statement - keeping all of the internals at a relatively constant temperature will make everything (capacitors, transistors etc) go through less thermal stress (caused by thermal changes) and effectively last longer. This is why in many settings, these amps are NEVER powered off. I never turn mine off, and many restaurants/movie cinemas etc just keep the amps powered up at all times.
Please refer to the pinned comment on this video. I can only help with what I already know about these amplifiers, I cannot diagnose an amplifier that's not in front of me. I appreciate the view, but please understand, I was only pointing out one possible solution to the power up problem on these amps... I don't repair amplifiers for a living, I just got a hold of a bunch of broken a couple years ago and made a couple videos... I do wish you the best of luck and I do appreciate the view and the feedback
Man. My CDi 2000 doesn't have a C196. It has a C915 right next to S7 and I can't find any evidence of its existence outside of looking at it on the board. It doesn't look like it's poofed out or anything. This unit says it was built in 2016.
The actual component number is based on the particular circuit board that all of my amps happen to use. Mine are much older than 2016, minor around 2008 2009 so they probably did some revisions. One thing you can do is carefully desolder C915 if it appears to be in about the same place and the same rating, and try it with an LCR tester. Just look up LCR meter or LCR tester on Amazon. Or simply go ahead and replace it with a higher voltage but same value replacement and see if that helps. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
One quick follow-up, unlike resistors and other components, electrolytic capacitors often have very wide tolerances. So if it says 220 and your LCR meter reads 180 it's probably still actually good. But again the safest bet might just be to go ahead and put a 50 volt version in its place and see what happens...
Yeah, you'll need to contact Crown (owned by Harman International since 2000) -- otherwise you might be able to find someone with that firmware, but BEWARE flashing *anything* with firmware you obtain from just some guy on the Internet... Definitely try to get it from the source, eg, Crown... wish I could help but I've never once seen a need to flash a Crown amp. If your firmware is corrupted, I believe your problem lies deeper...
I don't speak Spanish but in any case, if it's not covered in my video I can't really provide help. Look for someone local to you who works on electronics for help. Unless I have an amplifier on my bench, I can't diagnose it for you. And I don't do amplifier repairs for a living, I just made a couple videos.
If one channel is dead, it's more serious and you'll need to diagnose that. You can (VERY CAREFULLY) compare voltages at different points, comparing what you get from the dead channel and one of the "good" channels, to narrow down the problem. Could be a transistor, an IC (op-amp), a capacitor, or any number of things... I recommend having a pro take a look, I can't tell you much more without having the unit in my possession...
Please read the pinned comment. I don't do amp repair for others, these were just some "about to be thrown out" amps I decided to take home and tinker with. Aside from that, this video is quite old and those amps are STILL in use in my home studio today. I just wanted to quickly highlight a common issue on these older Crown amps. You don't have to like my particular methods 😏
I appreciate all the feedback on these amp repair videos, but please keep in mind I do not do repairs for a living and I really can't provide answers to your questions.
If an amp is not literally sitting on my workbench, I cannot diagnose it for you. Please consult a local repair shop, I only posted my videos for entertainment purposes. I do appreciate the views and the comments but again I can't really provide any more assistance than what is already in the video..
I have a crown xti 40002 and all I had was 4 cerwin Vegas hooked up to it I bought this thing used and it's worked good until today I wasn't even driving it that hard to where it was red lining or anything but it ...
Driving 4 cerwin Vegas
Did you get it repaired? What was the problem??
From all these videos nothing seems to have the same capacitor@@clintonwolf-uv8wk
You sir, are the quintessence of a gentleman and a scholar. A thousands thanks for sharing your expertise and experience!
This video just saved my company over 2,000.00. I was able to get my Crown CDI 4000 working for less than 10.00 in parts.
Awesome, glad to hear it!
Thank you so much for this perfect video. To the point and no meaningless information
Thank you so much for the feedback. I really did try to just sum up the problem without getting into extreme detail, unfortunately it started raining so the audio isn't great, but overall the video made its point.
I'm just happy that after a good couple years it's still relevant, as these amps are all over the place, due to cinemas closing down, etc...
I just got 2 CDi 1000's, a XTi1000 and a XTi 4000 to repair with the same problem, thanks!
Good luck for the 4000 because everything looks different inside
Awesome, this looks promising! I have one of these and as you can guess the same problem basically. Powers on then shuts off immediately
Unfortunately it did only help partially. The amp now powers on briefly, then powers off with a click and then powers on again without a click and stays on, nothing on the display except "ready" level on each level meter. The unit is accessible over USB but the front display shows a dim backlight, no text, and the encoders do nothing. Any ideas what this might be?
The amp Seems to work, I tested with pink noise via the bandmanager2 software
Oh, I just checked the 5V rail for the LCD, it's 2.5 Volts. That Might explain why it's not happy. . Seems the LCD has its own voltage rail controlled by a 5Volt regulator 78M05. The Vin for that regulator is 29.1V Which is within spec, but the output is only 2.5V so maybe it is faulty?
Yep, was the 5Volt regulator. Swapped in a buck converter temporarily and the unit is back to working.
Thank you mister, worked on my Crown 4002 XTI!
Glad to hear it!
So this issue is present on the 4002 as well, not just the older ones?
You are very good with your hands, intelligent also
Why does it sound like you're making a truck load of popcorn? I just found you. Can't wait to check out some of your videos
Haha yeah, it started raining just as I hit "record", and I have a window A/C unit in that room... it was just a quick 'n' dirty video, so I didn't put a whole lot of effort into this one.
I do have another Crown Amp video from that same time period that sounds better :)
That's cool man. I bought 4... x 4000s as well as four other crown xtis. They're confusing me. Just trying to get them back for simple operation on my JBL speakers in my band. I'll keep watching. Keep up the good work brother!
Worked perfectly as described. Thank you!
Glad to hear it! It is worth noting that it is generally a good idea to replace pretty much all of those light blue capacitors, I believe those are rated at a relatively low temperature and as you probably are aware, the temperature is inside the amplifier can get somewhat above that rating
I was just gifted with an crown xti2002 and is having problems getting to power on and I believe it could be the capacitor as well but I want to know where and what kind of capacitor do I need.
I did a more in-depth video about a year before this one, it should have linked to it at the end of this video but here's the link:
ruclips.net/video/6dUT3sxJtqo/видео.html
For future viewers, I have pinned a comment linking to the prior video that gives a lot more detail. Long story short it is capacitor C196, located just to the left of the power switch. It is a 220 microfarad capacitor rated at 35 volts, which isn't enough. I always replace it with a 50 volt version but keep that 220 microfarad rating so that it operates correctly. That just lets it handle the slightly higher voltage spikes that often occur. Sadly they still haven't fixed this design flaw and even newer amps often have similar issues...
I just realized you said 2002 not 2000. It should be similar but the board layout may be a little bit different as the 2002 is a newer model. I recommend looking for any capacitor about that size that looks damaged, and he bulges on the top of the can or any leakage underneath. Any capacitors that look damaged should be replaced but specifically the startup capacitor should have a slightly higher voltage rating than what they put in. Hope this helps.
thank you for the advice going to try it see if I can do it I have an xti 4002 that won't power up as you described
Did you try this? and did it work on the 4002? I have a 4000 no power and was going to try.
@@Rafiki568 yep me too. just found this video so will try it.. nothing to loose
You can actually twist the cap out from the top, unsolder the leads, clear the solder holes with a vacuum station & solder the new part in without having to remove the board at all.
I'll be honest, after fixing half a dozen of these amps with the exact same problem, that thought did not occur to me :) That would bring it down to about a 2 minute repair, mostly removing/replacing the cover screws!
Thank you for your help. I removed the motherboard from my xti1002 with no difficulties but I failed to take a picture before inverting the board and the 2 metal straps on the board supporting the speaker binding post were not captive and fell off. 1 remained on the positive terminal but not sure if the other was on the other positive terminal. Can you enlighten me please?
Thanks Ed
Give me a day or two, I haven't opened one of these up in a while. I'll have to dig through footage or photos from when I originally published these videos, maybe I can point you in the right direction. But again, give me a day or two, it's the first of the month at this point and I have a lot going on...
I recently acquired an XLS 1002, which is a different species but hopefully I can make that thing work again and another video will be forthcoming if that pans out.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment. If I can help in any way on the xti 1002, I will do my best. But again give me a couple days 😀
If I have time tomorrow, one of my xti 1002 amps has crapped out on me. It's like just a couple of screws, maybe I can take a picture of the inside of that so you can see how it should go back together... No promises, but if I find a little extra time, I've been wanting to open that one up anyway..
Do you check the two zeners D28 and D29 which live in parallel of this cap, they limit the startup supply to 32V.
Honestly I never did look that far into it. I just knew that capacitor was failed and stuck a higher voltage rated version in its place... It was intended as a quick fix, and since it turned out we had several amps with the exact same issue, I just went through the motions on the rest lol without really giving it much thought.
It's been a good couple years and most of them are still in service, they're on 24/7...
But good to know for future reference
Tks...from Brazil
Hi Justin, thanks for the video. I have an I -t6000. That has a flashing power indicator. And sometimes will just turn on and off. Do you think it’s the same issue?
I honestly couldn't tell you without having that particular amp on my bench... I can only speak to the XTI/DSI series that I show in my videos, and only to that one particular power-on issue...
Wish I could be more helpful...
I have a no power XTI 4000 , is the repair the same as the 1000? Also do they use the same replacement capacitor that you are suggesting? Thank you for all the help.
I haven't had the privilege of opening up a 4000, but I imagine it is similar if not the same board -- if you open it up, and the board looks exactly like mine (but with more components on it), and there is that same capacitor near the power switch, the possibly this fix could work... I couldn't tell you without seeing one for myself however...
Have the XTI 1002 and does not power on. Did the capacitor replacement. No change. Tested removed capacitor and it was good.
Tested resistors and the show resistance. Tested all the transistors, 1 tests bad . The one right next to the 2 relays. Do not know if that could be the problem. Any advice? How do I know what transistor to use in the replacement. Looking for the schematics and parts is tough to locate. Thanks for the videos.
Also need replace burn precision resistors. The amp works but in short time failure again without replace those resistors.
I think the bottom line is, these amps are well designed and can run for many years quite reliably.
However everything degrades over time, so if you truly want the amp to run like new, the more passive components you replace, the longer it is likely to last into the future. Capacitors, resistors, perhaps even the power transistors which are not all that expensive, could potentially add years to an old inefficient amplifier.
The power supply circuitry is a little more tricky but the same basic principles apply: replace anything that looks physically over stressed, or tests out of spec.
I still have three dead ones ranging from the XTI 1000 to a four-channel 4000, that I plan on doing a complete overhaul with partly for the video sake and partly just to have another Kick-Ass amp 😁 I will probably look for the best looking candidate that at least attempts to power on when I have the time to do that project. Stay tuned to this channel...
Is this the same for the xti6000? I have 2 with the lcd flashing on and off and will never power up. Thanks.
Excellent!!! 🐕
Thanks!
Have you worked on the Crown CDi1000? I have a unit that will not complete power on and does not have the set of through hole resistors and the C198 near power switch that you replace in your video. Really like your get right to it video style. Any advice? The only thing observed on my circuit board is a bulged capacitor top (C815) right near the back of the LCD display. This has a small inductor and other small SMPS components.
I have worked on a CDI 1000, but it's probably an older unit. I'm sure some of the components on the board are relabeled or even rearranged.
It's been a while since I worked on a Crown amp, but I do have a XLS 1002 in my possession that puts out audio but only sometimes, and has display issues including both thermal lights lighting up even when it's cold LOL.
So I am going to jump back into the crown amp repair situation, hopefully I can return some information that might help. But if you've got a CDI model that I don't have on hand, honestly without looking at it first hand, I don't know that I can help. But at least I can gleam from some of the newer and older amps made by Crown, what changes have been made over the years
Maestro una consulta m podría decir cual pin es el neutro y la face xq el del medio es tierra cual pin es neutro de la izquierda o derecha
I have a crown xti 40002 and all I had was 4 cerwin Vegas hooked up to it I bought this thing used and it's worked good until today I wasn't even driving it that hard to where it was red lining or anything but it started flashing and slowly turned off but there was a weird thumping noise through the speakers even with it off how much would you charge me to fix it I'll send it to you
I don't do repairs -- I simply repaired a few amplifiers a couple years ago, and decided to share my experience... see pinned comment for more info...
Is this repair the same for the Crown XLS202 amplifier. I have same issue, won’t power on. I have been pushing it very hard today and it died. Would like to save it. Also, should i upgrade to beefier amp for heavy rap bass?
I have an XTI 2000 that has worked great for years but died in the middle of a show yesterday. Now it keeps shutting itself off every time i turn it on. I can get sound out of it very briefly before it shuts down. Do you still repair these amps? I wonder if mine is repairable.
If the amplifier gets through the initial power up sequence, to the point where you're actually hearing audio, the problem is not likely the same problem I show in this video. It could be a power supply issue or it could be something bad in one of the output stages... Either way it's a little beyond the scope of this particular video.
I'm sure it is fixable, but it would need to go to someone with a workbench and the proper test equipment.
Best of luck, I hope the steers you in the right direction. Thanks for watching
It couldn't hurt to go ahead and try to replace that capacitor, it may be in the early stage of this particular failure... It would only cost a few cents and a few minutes of your time if you are comfortable soldering and all that fun stuff. Just keep in mind the high voltages that could be stored in the input capacitors, I have another video somewhere on his channel from years ago, just look for a similar thumbnail in my video list lol just a stack of amps... I believe in that older video I show how to discharge the capacitors and all that. Again best of luck
Do you have a copy of the old Cloader software for the XTI? Thanks
I dug around my current PC and didn't find the software... I *know* I downloaded it, and updated the firmware, and was even able to save presets on the amp... I will have to find where I originally downloaded it from...
I believe since this video is a few years old, that I did that at least one PC build ago... the old machine is actually in another room, I'll dig around there, see if it's still hiding in a downloads folder or something. Either way I'll reply back hopefully with a link...
Actually a very brief search yielded this: www.crownaudio.com/en/software
It's been a while, but I do believe one of those downloads lets you simply plug in the USB, fiddle with the serial port settings, and eventually gain some control/insight into the amp. I would test it out but I don't have the time at the moment... let us all know if you are successful and how it went :)
Thanks Justin. Much appreciated. I've tried looking online but no luck as yet.
Also here, you can find the actual service manuals, and other downloads by model: www.crownaudio.com/en/support_downloads -- the technical manual is very detailed and is what I used when I first started opening these things up...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thanks Justin. So i have a very early model that was built before those software came out. They dont see the amplifire. I need Cloader to get it to the latest version and then the new software will see the amp. :)
I have 8 crown xs1200. 3 of them go into fault mode . I'm running them on my dual 18 subwoofers. Some of them have worked great for years. I'd love some direction in figuring out this problem
any luck on repairing your XS1200 amps? I have one that faults when powered on.
Is the procedure the same for the xti 2002?
Excelente video , felicitaciones gracias a este video arregle mi amplificador
I am not fluent in Spanish but I get the idea, thanks for the feedback I'm glad you enjoyed The video
Hey Justin! I have a 4002 that just effed up. Could I pick your brain about it?
would that capacitor be the cause of a crown xti 4000 powering on and then powering down into protection mode? There is no error code displayed.
If it gets through the power-up sequence, that capacitor is most likely not the problem. That capacitors only job is to charge to a certain point, after which the rest of the power supply is allowed to power up. It's basically part of a timer circuit, though a little more complex than that...
If it's going into protect mode, most likely you've got a DC short somewhere, possibly a bad transistor stuck on causing a current overload...
I would definitely take it to a professional and have them go through the unit on a workbench
Any ideas for the Crown 4x3500? I have a unit that just powers on with four fault LEDs solid red.
That is a monster of an amp I haven't personally encountered. I do know the 4-channel amps are a bit more condensed (more channels = more components), and the power supplies tend to be a little more complicated... sorry wish I could help, but without first hand experience with that particular amp, I would suggest searching for the service manual/schematic... they are available, just a little hard to find
Is this repair related to the amp stuck with the fan on when I turn it on? Do you take repairs?
The fan control is a completely different part of the circuit. I believe it is controlled by the temperature of the heat sinks, so it could be the thermistor that senses the heat or it could be the control circuit. Either way sorry, I don't do this for a living just a hobby
I have a crown xls drivecore 2502 all of a sudden wont power up. I have it disassembled everything looks normal no swollen caps ect. Also cant find any schematics on it. Can u help?
I wish I could help, but please read the pinned comment...
So in the beginning of the video what If there is voltage across the two heatsinks how do I discharge properly?
The fastest way would be to take an insulated wire, and ground out BOTH heat sinks to the chassis -- BUT the best way would be to have a resistor inline *or* wait a while, the capacitors WILL self discharge after some time... Just note that you have a positive rail, and a negative rail, so simply shorting the two together *could* backwards-charge one rail... so always reference to zero volts (chassis ground) when discharging each.
good trainig sir .thank you. sir dsp off and display shut off what can do sir? please ....
The only advise I can give without having the unit in my possession, is to check the ribbon cable that powers the front panel. If it has come loose (the fronts of these fall off very easily when not rack mounted), that could be the problem... otherwise, I'd have to see it for myself, sorry.
in your opinion are Crown amplifiers worth the extra $$$ over QSC ? i have a QSC PLX 2402 and it always sounded great but the fan is stupid loud and after all these years the volume / gain knobs got a little rusty and sometimes they lose signal and i have to fiddle with them a bit to get a good contact. although i definitely feel i got my money's worth with QSC given the power and and the sound quality i at the same time feel a truly quality product shouldn't have had those two issues i described. do you think Crown is the same just more expensive or is it overall a better brand ?
I have used the QSC amps in the past. They are good amps, but make sure to read the *actual* specs. A Crown that says 2000, actually puts out 2000 Watts RMS at the rated load (say, 4-ohms per channel). Where the QSC are generally quoting "peak" wattage, which is marketing garbage. In the fine print you'll find the actual RMS wattage output to be roughly half the "peak" wattage... just my opinion (don't want to get sued for slander :) )
@@JustinNelsonsProjects i hear what you're saying ... i originally got my PLX for audiophile purposes ( not to push raw power ) as it was a very clean amp for its time, but in the end it was a huge mistake due to the fan noise. worst of all they learned nothing from their mistakes as the new PLD uses the same fan and heatsink setup as my PLX with only 2 fan speeds and an always-on fan that is very loud even with no music playing ( just like my PLX ). if i didn't have the PLX i wouldn't believe the reviews of how bad the fan is on the PLD but sadly i believe it.
@@g1981c When cranked, these Crown amps do kick in a rather loud fan (mine are about 10 years old though, they may just need new fans). But the DSI series were intended for cinema use. Tons of raw power, really clean sound even when cranked, and usually (In that setting) they reside in a rack off in a separate, temperature controlled room. Note that the fans can be replaced with a standard 12V PC fan ...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects in my use i do not foresee cranking the amps very often and if i do hopefully at that point it gets loud enough that fan noise is not an issue. the problem with QSC is the fan is on and loud the moment you flip the power switch even with no input signal. i currently use it to watch movies at night and in some scenes my room at night gets completely silent and that PLX fan going "WEEEEEEE" is literally the loudest thing in the room and just ruins the suspense ... that said, i am only considering class D amps now, in no small part because they require less cooling and therefore can *potentially* have quieter fans, though in case of QSC PLD it seems that potential was wasted.
@@g1981c if you're comfortable opening it up, they do make quieter fans. Measure it, check the voltage on the label, and match it to a super quiet PC fan. I guarantee you will notice a difference. The crowns only turn the fans on when they get hot, they actually have a temp sensor on the heat sink which is one of the reasons I like them. I only really hear the fans after the song ends lol
What applications are these amplifiers used for?
The ones I specifically own came out of a restaurant. However they are commonly used in movie theaters, driving each of the different audio channels. They're mostly meant for permanent installation, not really DJ type stuff...
I have a xti 4002 when I turn on amplifier speaker makes static popping sound, and display is lit but blank no red meter showing. Could this be a blown fuse?
I honestly can't diagnose an amp that's not sitting on my desk... but I would be careful about hooking up any speakers you care about to it, until it has been properly diagnosed and repaired by someone local to you...
Gooooood job
Hi Justin. I got a Crown DCi4300 amp that has a flashing power LED and won't power up. Any ideas?
Sorry, unless I had that amp on my bench, I wouldn't know where to even begin. I'm not familiar with that particular model, but I imagine that the manual must mention what a flashing power LED might indicate
Ok thanks. The manual says the light flashes when the AC power is above or below normal. Not the case. When I scope the ON button I can see the signal going to the 2nd power supply stage but it won't start up.
One of these amps sold for parts only on ebay. It had the same problem and the tech gave up on it.
Where you live. I have a amplifier crown no body can’t fix here in New Jersey. Can you try my amp crown !???
Sorry, I don't generally do repairs for others. I mostly work on my own stuff, whether it's electronics or cars. Besides, I'm in the Midwest. Surely there is a local electronics shop somewhere in Jersey...
You bent those speaker terminals so much i am surprised it ever worked again i would not ever let you near any of my audio equipment.
First, I don't run an audio repair shop. I just had a buttload of broken amps that all had the same problem, and wanted to demonstrate how quickly it could be fixed. I wasn't really concerned in this particular case how about quality or damaging something. It was more of a speed run for the video. This particular one has other issues including an extremely loud thud on power off (a problem I already knew it had before the capacitor failure problem). I already knew that amp wasn't going back into production service. I do however use it on a pair of monitor speakers in my little Studio to this day.
On the 2000 watt versions and another 1000, I did take more time and care, in fact those went back into service at the restaurant they came from, and have been running 24/7 ever since. I do all the maintenance there and I'm responsible for the audio as part of that, many different zones etc. When I took over that job, half the zones did not work because of those amp failures. The ones that I was able to repair went back into service, after a bit of testing here at the house. Obviously we also purchased some new amps where needed.
In summary, I'm more than happy to stay away from your audio equipment 😁 This kind of work is not a normal part of my day job, just a hobby.
I don't see any repair videos if the xti 4000 and xti 4002
The capacitor in question is a completely different number, mine will not switch on and that capacitor don't seem to be at fault
This video is SPECIFICALLY about the amplifier shown -- I cannot diagnose an amplifier I do not have access to... you'll have to look elsewhere for a video specifically on the 4000/4002 series...
Working on a CTs-2000 with blown output transistors but can't get the correct part numbers to obtain replacements. Any idea how to either get a schematic or obtain the correct part numbers?
If you do a deep dive on Google, you should be able to find a PDF of the service manual. I had a copy for the DTS at some point, and I just remember spending a few hours on Google until I ran across it... Otherwise, look at places like mouser.com or digikey or even just Google and try cross-referencing the numbers on the transistors to find an equivalent.
I have a xti 2000 and xti 4000. Can I send you a video of what they are doing. Both do something different. Hopefully you can help me get these fixed. Crown wants $265 bench fee and it goes up from there.
I'm really sorry but please read the pinned comment. I wish I could help but I just don't have time and this is not what I do for a living...
Como soluciono? xti 1000 low line. Aplica este procedimiento?
Do you do amp repair as a business? I'm looking for a new repair guy.
Sorry, see the pinned comment. I get this question quite a lot but unfortunately I don't have time or really honestly the skills to do like a full service repair shop. I do software and I do General Building mostly lol...
Hi, do you sell any of these amplifiers?
Of all the amplifiers I have fixed since posting this video, I sold three and I've kept three for my own use. One of mine failed so I'm down to the two at this point.
I have a Crown 1002 XTI Series amp that will turn on just long enough to tell me "DSP is off" before shutting down. Do you imagine it's the same issue and same repair?
It is doubtful, because this particular repair fixes the issue where the app doesn't even attempt to power up. I would recommend checking all capacitors on the circuit board, especially around the power supply, as a starting point.
Hello where are you located I have a xti 4000 that needs repair
Sorry I don't do repairs for others. It's just a hobby of mine, I wouldn't feel comfortable repairing an amp and risking something going bad with it later on... Of the five I repaired that day, two of them have since died...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects oo ok no problem.. thanks alot for replying 👍👍
@@JustinNelsonsProjects They died from some other failure mode, I assume? Wondering if the higher voltage rating could cause problems. I have the schematic for my XTi 2002, but didn't find the circuit for C196 on a quick skim. The input power section is so cramped it's a bit of a pain to probe out the circuit. I powered off the amp to do some rewiring and it wouldn't power back on. If C196 is actually a drain for the bigger caps, your logic on the failure makes sense. Its sister amp (basically the exact same number of hours and program material throughout its life) is doing just fine, but I ordered up enough caps to do both. Have you seen any other culprits for no power on failures?
i have DSI 1000 can power up about 1 minute and off by itself and Xti 1000 cannot recover firmware default , cannot edit,save preset please advise
I'm sorry but without having the amp physically on my workbench to probe around in, I honestly can't offer much help here. There are many different things that could cause these amps to power off, too many to even list. I wish I could help further 😕
Awesome video! I inherited an XTI that wasn't powering on. Noticed the person had pulled out the two large capacitors c57&c58 as well as pulled the fuse. Changed those, changed the small one you suggested. Now I have a Low Line error, and I can't seem to find much info about it other than my voltage is below 105. I know that's not right. Any ideas?
The only specific issue I happen to be familiar with is the one in the video, because I ran across so many amps that had that exact problem with the underrated capacitor. As far as troubleshooting a low line voltage error, somewhere out there on the internet is an actual service manual for the XTI and DSI series... When I find that link again I'll post the link, it's directly from Harman kardon or crown's website I forget which. You might be able to find it with some Google and it will help you with measuring voltages at various test points, just be careful measuring on a live board obviously :-)
Bending the shit out of the banana posts LMAO
Yes I was trying to do it in a hurry to show how quickly the repair could be done lol. Normally I take a little more time and patience and don't bend everything up like that
Why igbt is getting short in dsi 2000?
Sorry I wouldn't know without having the amp on my bench... It could be any number of things, I would take it to a local shop or find someone who knows electronics really well local to you and go from there
awesome thank you
For those of you who want a little more in-depth video on this repair, I filmed one a year prior to this video. It should link at the end but it doesn't always so I will pin the link to the more in-depth video here:
ruclips.net/video/6dUT3sxJtqo/видео.html
Its a 2 part video with no part 2
my xti 2000 output volume getting weaker by each day, the bass is also gone. Any idea?
Is it getting proper ventilation? Is the fan running when you drive the amp? It sounds like some components are simply worn out, and excess heat can accelerate that process... Wish I could be of more help but he may need to get someone qualified to look through it
since the first day i bought this amp, the fan will only run if i push it hard enough(volume led hit at least orange color), the fan never run on low volume even if the amp is running for long period with the casing metals getting very warm.
i took it to a repair man, after checking he said some IC might be faulty thus triggering the protection mode to cut the power. Yet he is unable to be certain nor fix it.
@@careles3520 That has been my experience with the XTIs as well - the fans only kick in when pushed very hard. Normal listening levels, even when the casing feels quite warm, no fan action. But a few seconds of thumping bass, and they are in full force. This is by design, it keeps the fans from wearing out prematurely, and keeps the internal temperature of the entire system at an equilibrium...
Just to follow up on that last statement - keeping all of the internals at a relatively constant temperature will make everything (capacitors, transistors etc) go through less thermal stress (caused by thermal changes) and effectively last longer. This is why in many settings, these amps are NEVER powered off. I never turn mine off, and many restaurants/movie cinemas etc just keep the amps powered up at all times.
Sir i have changed the capacitor but it is still in dead condition and the 26 volt on the capacitor is fluctuating ??? Help me sir
Please refer to the pinned comment on this video. I can only help with what I already know about these amplifiers, I cannot diagnose an amplifier that's not in front of me.
I appreciate the view, but please understand, I was only pointing out one possible solution to the power up problem on these amps... I don't repair amplifiers for a living, I just got a hold of a bunch of broken a couple years ago and made a couple videos...
I do wish you the best of luck and I do appreciate the view and the feedback
Xti 4000 i have fan not rotating solve
The capacitor was clearly bulging. Replaced it but still dead. Any other common causes? Don't see any other bad caps.
Man. My CDi 2000 doesn't have a C196. It has a C915 right next to S7 and I can't find any evidence of its existence outside of looking at it on the board. It doesn't look like it's poofed out or anything. This unit says it was built in 2016.
The actual component number is based on the particular circuit board that all of my amps happen to use. Mine are much older than 2016, minor around 2008 2009 so they probably did some revisions.
One thing you can do is carefully desolder C915 if it appears to be in about the same place and the same rating, and try it with an LCR tester. Just look up LCR meter or LCR tester on Amazon. Or simply go ahead and replace it with a higher voltage but same value replacement and see if that helps.
Good luck, and thanks for watching!
One quick follow-up, unlike resistors and other components, electrolytic capacitors often have very wide tolerances. So if it says 220 and your LCR meter reads 180 it's probably still actually good. But again the safest bet might just be to go ahead and put a 50 volt version in its place and see what happens...
What if it rurn on for a few seconds and it turn off again.
I need the lpc2142 xti2000 hex file
Yeah, you'll need to contact Crown (owned by Harman International since 2000) -- otherwise you might be able to find someone with that firmware, but BEWARE flashing *anything* with firmware you obtain from just some guy on the Internet...
Definitely try to get it from the source, eg, Crown... wish I could help but I've never once seen a need to flash a Crown amp. If your firmware is corrupted, I believe your problem lies deeper...
El crown dsi 4000 es el mismo crown xti 4000 no consigo el diagrama del dsi4000
I don't speak Spanish but in any case, if it's not covered in my video I can't really provide help. Look for someone local to you who works on electronics for help.
Unless I have an amplifier on my bench, I can't diagnose it for you. And I don't do amplifier repairs for a living, I just made a couple videos.
My xti4000 one channel not working.how to fix it.
If one channel is dead, it's more serious and you'll need to diagnose that. You can (VERY CAREFULLY) compare voltages at different points, comparing what you get from the dead channel and one of the "good" channels, to narrow down the problem. Could be a transistor, an IC (op-amp), a capacitor, or any number of things...
I recommend having a pro take a look, I can't tell you much more without having the unit in my possession...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects i catch it.its volume control problam.thank u
Sir i have 2 Crown XTI4000 and probably power section are busted
Please help me
u r a ustaad.
I had to look up that word, but I do believe it is a compliment, and I appreciate it 👍
master / expert / teacher etc.@@JustinNelsonsProjects
Did this problem cause a channel don’t work ?
This is just me showing how I fixed a very specific *powerup* failure. Other problems would likely not be fixed with this particular repair.
@@JustinNelsonsProjects ok thanks 👍🏻
Everyone says it's c196
In that position I only have a c195
What a chaos. And after 3 minutes you manage to bend the poles 45 degrees. Thats not how other peoples hardware is treated.
Please read the pinned comment. I don't do amp repair for others, these were just some "about to be thrown out" amps I decided to take home and tinker with.
Aside from that, this video is quite old and those amps are STILL in use in my home studio today.
I just wanted to quickly highlight a common issue on these older Crown amps. You don't have to like my particular methods 😏
Crown 6002 p
jajajajajaja