I love your videos! Honestly the easiest to follow.. Can you please make a video on how to grade bikini top and bikini bottom pleaseee,,,, I'm stuck and I really want to start making and testing my patterns .... Also how do I contact you? I want to learn from you, you mentioned that you help people who want to start their clothing line.
Falak Naseem hey so sorry! I never got notification of your message! Yes I absolutely can do a video on bikini grades. Bikinis are my business specialty. You can reach me through my website at helveteca.com
Ok so I am using the arrow keys, up down left and right. To make it go in 1/16 increments, you need to go to the illustrator tab up in the upper left hand corner, go to preferences, and under General, you need to put .0625 into the “keyboard increments” section. That’s for 1/16. For any other increments, lets say, 1/4… you would use your calculator to do 1 divided by 4, which is .25. You would then put .25 in keyboard increments to make the cursor move a quarter inch at a time
The amount of times you blew my mind in this 16 minute video is amazing. Thank you so so so much for this. I also absolutely loved Method 2. You are a genius.
Thank you so much! This was of great help. If I may offer a small tip in gratitude (which you may already know): when you copy the layer to make the larger size bodice, it easier to drag the layer you want to copy (right in the layer panel) and drag it down to the "create new layer" icon in the bottom (it looks like little pages). It is way quicker that selecting, copying, creating new layer, and pasting as it does all of that in one step. Then you can just rename the new layer you created. Hope this makes sense. Thank you!
Appreciate this very much! I've been going back and forth with grading and this video and I finally understand it! You are right the books do not explain it clearly. It has taken me a couple years to finally understand! Thank you so much!
Hello, this helped me immensely, I've been trying to figure out how to grade digitally for ages. Thanks very much. PS: your instructions are very clear.
I just recently used your video to help me get familiar with Adobe illustrator! Just like everyone else said this was definitely the easiest method to follow 🙌🏾 I see your not super active on her but if you ever see this and get the chance, a video on grading pants on Adobe would be sooooo helpful for me! Thanks I’m advance and I appreciate this video more than you know lol
Hey I’m here! I have responding to almost all comments for years- it’s just really hard to do videos! I’m terrible at them and my equipment is sub par 😂- but this sounds like a challenge. I grade pants a lot. Let’s see what happens. Maybe I’ll try this tomorrow?
@@helvetecaLLC terrible?! Not at all. Your tutorial was literally the only one On YT that I could really keep up with! I wouldn’t call that Terrible at all lol but yay, I’m excited you responded and I can’t wait for the upcoming video 🤗 Thanks again love!
Woww 🤯, you’re amazing … can you make some basic/beginner drafting videos pleeaassee 🤍… I’ve bought books, and watched soooo many videos … you explain things so well & thorough.
I can- can you give me some ideas of what you’d want me to start with? RUclips doesn’t notify me of second replies so you may need to email them to me, found under the contact tab somewhere by my name up there
OMG this is the best thing ever!! I recently graduated from school where I made patterns in gerber and graded them.I don't have access to the software anymore since I graduated so this is amazing thank you sharing your tips!! :D
+malene petersen Yep I know exactly what you're saying... I tried to look into buying the Gerber program but there was just no way I can afford the amount of up to $60,000... I have been messing with Adobe for years to learn to make it like Gerber because you don't get taught this in school, you know? Don't you think there should be classes in school on how to grade and draft patterns in Illustrator?
Yeah its pricy but good though... I agree this should be thaught in school I had no idea you could do this in Illustrator and its more precise than doing it by hand:)
That is always a hard question. There's this thing called the ASTM you can look up online and it has some general sizing there, a bit hard to sift through but keep looking! If you can email me at miranda@helveteca.com I can help you!
Wow! I was looking for that magic button for the last three years! You literally saved a ton of hours for my future grading!only one question: If I got a size Small and grade between a size extra large, is there any way to get also the extra small without doing it manually?again Thank you so much for that video!!!
Hi ..... why is it when I try to blend the two sizes it all seems to break apart and looks so messy .... have I too many anchor points in my original pattern? Thank you so much Jayne x
Hi, I might need more info. Are you folllowing exactly along? Sometimes if you make one little mistake that you don’t notice you’re doing it can mess things up. Is it possible to send me a screenshot? Miranda@helveteca.com
Thanks for answered me. Ive worked in the garment district in New York for over 4 decades and, the manufacturer that i work for does have a Lectra system. If in the future you would have the kindness of bring something out with this system. That would be great and appreciate it. Once again , thanks a lot.
Thank you for showing me things I had NO IDEA Illustrator could do!! I do most of my pattern drafting on Illustrator because the program we have on campus sucks so bad. THANK YOU!!
Tyler Klene yeah it took me a while to figure things out in Illustrator because I really needed to be able to do computer drafting and grading. What program does your school use? I take classes sometimes at one of our schools and they use some program called PatternMaker which seems to be too generic.
We use Lectra Modaris which was translated from French, poorly, and basically has a fit and closes the program anytime you try to switch from the metric measurement system. I also haven't found anything that's compatible with it, it drives me CRAZY!
Tyler Klene yeah that's the program I learned on in school. It's was pretty ok but since I can't go home and use Lectra, I was happy to learn that illustrator can be used to do the same things. It just takes a while to teach yourself how!
Hi, Thanks for the nice video, one question, can you please tell me what is the shortcut you used with direct select tool to get extra grading by moving 1/16?
Great tutorial, just one question. What is the rule for grading different points of a block or patterns? I am trying to grade a leotard pattern and I am stocked!
Hi and thank you for watching! The grade rules vary from garment type to garment type. I believe the rules for leotards (dance and swimwear) are 2” around and 1” vertically. Really confusing though so it’s something that will be easier to understand once you get to that “ah ha!” moment in grading. It’s confusing! I’m actually doing a leotard line right now so lets see if I can get a video together.
Thank You for doing this. I have been waiting a loooong time for you to find the time. I am so happy you did. Not sure if I understand everything, but I am hung on your words " its really not that hard". I guess I will have to go and read up some more on how to add the grading points. Can you suggest any books or sites that can read up on grading and how to make the marks.
Hi! What I meant I think about it not being hard was the ruler readings. You gotta get to know a ruler very well and then grading is easier to understand.
Ooops I submitted my comment before I was done. Anyways I think my next tutorial will be getting to know the ruler in grading, and maybe I can break it down more clearly. This tutorial is more for people who know how to grade already and want to do it in Illustrator. Let me look for some books for you as well.
donnasfabulous Here are some books that may help, grading is tough though so read the reviews on these books first to see if you could benefit, some of these books are up to $700! This book here is allegedly THE BEST, but very high priced www.amazon.com/Professional-Pattern-Grading-Childrens-Apparel/dp/1563673193/ A lot of instructors us this book for how thorough it is www.amazon.com/Concepts-Pattern-Grading-2nd-Edition/dp/1563676974 AND this book here is good for beginners, you can download the e-version right now along with a grading ruler, make sure you pick that option in the pull down menu www.fashionpatterns.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=157
Loved this tutorial! Do you know of any good books I could read to learn more about grading in general and how to grade with different fabric types, body types, dresses vs swimwear etc.? Thank you
Hey I never got a notification on your message! Sorry about that! There is this one book and I can’t remember what it is, but it’s about $800 on Amazon, but it’s considered the industry best. Let me see if I can find it.
This is an excellent tutorial! It was easy to understand and follow but I think I'm missing something and I hope you can help me. I've gotten to the point of using the blend tool, but when I do it, the outcome is not what you have. to put it simply, I get a replica of the 2 pieces I've clicked to get the blended middle piece but MUCH smaller! It didn't even bother to create a third blended pattern piece. Can you help?
Maybe I can but I’ll need to know exactly the steps you took personally. Are your settings the same as mine? Try clearing your page or opening a new one, then follow the tutorial exactly step by step again, even if you did it before, you could have missed something. Someone before had a similiar problem and she resolved it by going through the tutorial again. Also, make sure you have NO FILL on your lines in each layer. Sometimes that can be the culprit too,
Thank you so much for this. Quick question do you recommend grading a pattern before you add your own style lines and cut it up? How do I grade the different pieces?
Hi that’s actually a good question and I’ve asked myself this several times. It depends on a few things. So you have your base pattern, are you grading up and down to have a range of sizes for a particular style, or are you just grading one style to one size? I will usually first design my style in the pattern, then grade from there and that is how the industry does it for the most part. Or, like I’ve done before, I will grade a block pattern in a bunch of size ranges and have sometimes designed the styles in the blocks, but I wouldn’t say that is professional. If you grade your style into several sizes, you would do it the same way you grade one piece. For example, let’s say you have a top with paneled pieces so it’s shut up like a puzzle piece. When you go to grade, you kind of put the puzzle pieces together and grade it together if you get confused, so you can see how each piece matches up with it’s partners. Does that make sense? If not, let me know.
Hi, I'm trying to answer from my experience, It depends on which you will use more. The base pattern, or the style? if you work for made-to-measure, suit or shirt bespoke, you might grade a block of pattern in a bunch of size range, choose the size of your client, and tweak from that, but if you are focused on the unique design, I think you should design your pattern first and grade them, recommend this if you work in bridal, or fashion that focus on their design, which you don't need to grade in all size and range.
Hi, Im looking into grading my own patterns for possibly selling my own patterns, I have no idea how to get the measurements to the largest size, do you know where I could get a basic set of measurements?
ZoeSews There's a website, not sure the name, but it's the ASTM website that has a bunch of "American Standards" on measurements and etc. Try googling ASTM STANDARDS and look in the garment sizing section. Let me know if you need more help.
Hello! I need more of an explanation on the “magic trick” for when you create the medium grade. Like, for this to work, does the grades have to have to go increase/decrease by the same number? (Ex; they would all increase by 1.5 inches) Because I’m going up by 1 inch, then .5 inch, then 1.5 inch. Would that work?
Tell me more! If there are variation between each grade the magic isn't so magical haha, I never considered this, please email me with more info so I can address it in a video
Hi, Excellent tutorial, this will help me out a lot. One question, you use the blend tool to create other sizes in between your grade lines. Is there a way to create grades automatically outside your largest grade size. For example you created sizes small to extra large here, but what if you wanted to now create extra large to say 4XL, can you get it to copy the increments outwards automatically to save having to draft the sizes yourself?
WW2Replicas I’m not sure, usually what I do is grade up to my largest size needed then fill the rest in from there. This isn’t a perfect system yet and can definitely be worked on. I’ll give what you’re asking a try and see what I can come up with.
Ashley Miller plus size is a different ball game. Once the body hits plus sizes, it begins to grow faster out and down (gravity pulling on parts of the body fleshier than smaller sizes). So the same rules don’t work! I have a subcontractor who is plus size that works for me, I will ask her. There are some books out there that do talk about plus size grading.
helveteca great.. thank you! I'm trying to enhance my skills digitally so I can start doing this professionally, it's actually not hard once you get the hang of it! Could I email you from time to time if I have any other questions or message you through the comments?
Ashley Miller oh and my subcontractor comes back from vacation on Monday and we just so happen to be grading a plus size pair of pants so I will see what info she’s got for you
this was fantastic! i'm not great at maths but the way you had the units mapped out already above the 1/4 up ect was really helpful for me to understand! I have a question about grading down a pattern that i already have. do you know where i can find a site that sells me how may 8ths or 4ths ect the shoulder slope or side seam corners have to move? I want to grade a pattern for myself thats slightly too big for myself and maybe make it for my friend who it is like at lest 1 size too big on. Thanks for taking all this time to share with us!!
Hi and thank you! I do know of several books, and I think I have some sites somewhere that assist in grading. It's a bit of a complex skill to learn but if you keep doing it over and over it starts to click. I don't have them on hand right now but when I go in tomorrow I will get those for you.
Thanks a bunch, I was also thinking that I could also alter a pattern to a person by your ruler line but on the bust waist and hip ponts etc. Dart points and gathers would take some interesting practice 😀 Thanks a bunch!
+Allie G hi I have some book recommendations down in the comments here, just keep scrolling down and you will see where someone else asked for that info too. Check it out. Also grading by hand does get tricky once you start hitting slashes and gathers! I'd say that type of grading is definitely advanced although the more you practice the easier it gets
Hey I am wondering if you offer grading services and how much you would charge? I am running out of time and I need my patterns graded. Trying to teach myself to do it is not working. I have all of my patterns digitized and they are just basic slopers.
Hi yes I do. You can just go to my website it's the same name as my channel. But if you want to private message me I can also show you some other options as well. Depending on where you live
Ok so I am using the arrow keys, up down left and right. To make it go in 1/16 increments, you need to go to the illustrator tab up in the upper left hand corner, go to preferences, and under General, you need to put .0625 into the “keyboard increments” section. That’s for 1/16. For any other increments, lets say, 1/4… you would use your calculator to do 1 divided by 4, which is .25. You would then put .25 in keyboard increments to make the cursor move a quarter inch at a time
It’s gotta be big enough to accommodate whatever pattern you’re working on, and you also got to keep in mind how you’re printing it too. If you are printing on a home printer with 8.5x11 sheets, then you could try to imagine how many sheets you’ll need to fit your pattern on... for example, let say your pattern fits on a page that is 14” across and 20” down, that would be 2 (8.5) pages across for a page total of 17”, and two pages down (11) for a total of 22” down. You’d want your art board in this example to be 17”x22”, does that make sense?
This is great! I just have one question, might be silly. Once you hit the points, where exactly in the adobe software are you placing numbers for it to move automatically. I tried doing it manually by dragging it but would like it to be more accurate. Thank you so much!
Hello, did you watch the first 3 minutes of the video? I actually walk you through how to set your point increments so that your grading is 100% accurate
hai 😊 i tried this tutorial and it does amazingly grading buat sometime when i blend it the line get scattered all around. its not smooth do you know what i did wrong in it? hope you can reply it . thank you
Every once in a while that happens with some people. The problem is something in the settings. I’ll need to walk you through it step by step because it can be tricky. I don’t have illustrator any,ore though so I can’t go through it with you but I may be able to help another way
Hi, I have a question. So I would like to venture of the menswear side but in school we mainly focused on womenswear. I was never that strong in grading because I get so confused and overwhelmed when it comes to creating grade rules, if you have a chance can you help me with that. I know my sizes are 2" increments but I wanna know how I distribute those inches. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you for your videos
Hello! You ask a pretty complicated question! It's not something so easily answered in a single reply. How about we work from an example. What do you have that needs grading, and what is the size? What are you trying to grade it to, and maybe if it's not too long, I can do a demo video for you.
+Silje Pedersen Yes it explains how if you go directly to the 2:00 minute mark. But if you mean you need them visible, go to VIEW, then go down to SHOW GRID.
Ashley Miller hello, first of all, right after tracing and scaling up to be “true to size”, you’ll want to print right away and thrn compare to your actual pattern. Using this info, you can gauge what is off. Lay your pattern on top of your printed patttern made in Illustrator. This is important! After that, grading should turn out fairly perfect as long as all your base patterns are tested and walked. Let me know if I can clarify further
Hello, thank you for posting this. I believe I have a simple question. You're stating that you increasing your pattern by 2 sizes, 1 size equals 1/16" increase and 2 sizes up would be 2 x 1/16". I see that in your first relocated point "1/16U, but then you have "1/8R x 4". Why is the "R" right movement not the same as "1/16u x 2", meaning 1/16R" x 2? I appreciate your response in advance.
eenie ige hello! Not all points in the pattern size up in a uniform fashion, some points grow more than other points, which is why some points would move up or down more than other areas.
eenie ige also! I made some mistakes in my speech although I didn’t make mistakes in the actual tutorial, so my misspoken words might be an issue as well.
Penney Dunmars The grade rules will be determined by your company's demographic. For example, the grade rules for a yoga line would obviously be different than the grade rules for a plus size line. People who work out grow differently than heavier set people and this would effect how you would grade your patterns. You can study how people grow and shrink in a beginners grading course. The fractions are representing how each point in a pattern grows. If you don't have a basic level of understanding on grading and fractions (or rulers), you will definitely be confused.
I didn’t even realize I already commented on this video when I first watched it a year ago lol. I was just beginning to teach myself grading, with a much better understanding of that now, I decided to rewatch (every thing makes so much more sense now lol) , working on learning to digitize patterns now.
Okay, I swear this is my last comment 😂😂, but after you clicked W and used the blend tool to make the medium I was like “wwoooowwwww” and you immediately said “yea, ik, it’s awesome” 😂😂😂😂
Carmen Vazquez Hi! optitex is awesome, and if I could choose, I would rather use Optitex over Illustrator, because Optitex is made specifically for this. But when on a budget, Illustrator works pretty well. Also, look into Patternmaker USA (Google it), very affordable. ALSO, look into VALENTINA, a FREE pattern drafting program!
Hi! Grading knits would be the same steps, but not the same rules. Once you get into swimwear and knitwear territory, things get a little more complicated. Stretch fabrics have a percentage of stretch along the grain, and then again in most cases along the cross grain. Maybe one day I will do a knit grade tutorial!
Minute 4:23 you want to keep the small BUT YOU KEEP THE LARGE, WHAT JUST HAS HAPPENED THERE, VERY CONFUSING, and the you just played it off. And continued 😣😣😣😣😥😥😥😩😩
As a professional pattern grader , this is so nonsense. Honestly my brain just stoped ! This has nothing to do with grading ! Steps are wrong , procedure is wrong , never mind ........Illustrator ? Is like taking the hammer to break the mountain! Keep going .... I wonder on a complex pattern how you going to grade !
I love your videos! Honestly the easiest to follow.. Can you please make a video on how to grade bikini top and bikini bottom pleaseee,,,, I'm stuck and I really want to start making and testing my patterns .... Also how do I contact you? I want to learn from you, you mentioned that you help people who want to start their clothing line.
Falak Naseem hey so sorry! I never got notification of your message! Yes I absolutely can do a video on bikini grades. Bikinis are my business specialty. You can reach me through my website at helveteca.com
Ok so I am using the arrow keys, up down left and right. To make it go in 1/16 increments, you need to go to the illustrator tab up in the upper left hand corner, go to preferences, and under General, you need to put .0625 into the “keyboard increments” section. That’s for 1/16. For any other increments, lets say, 1/4… you would use your calculator to do 1 divided by 4, which is .25. You would then put .25 in keyboard increments to make the cursor move a quarter inch at a time
@@helvetecaLLC you’re the bestttt! Thank you so so so muchhh 🤗🥰✨
Did you ever make a video on grading bikinis?
The amount of times you blew my mind in this 16 minute video is amazing. Thank you so so so much for this. I also absolutely loved Method 2. You are a genius.
Wow thanks so much!
This is the best video for pattern grading! God bless you 🙏 and thank you for your generosity ❤
Nevena Jelic thank you so much! I really appreciate that
Thank you so much! This was of great help. If I may offer a small tip in gratitude (which you may already know): when you copy the layer to make the larger size bodice, it easier to drag the layer you want to copy (right in the layer panel) and drag it down to the "create new layer" icon in the bottom (it looks like little pages). It is way quicker that selecting, copying, creating new layer, and pasting as it does all of that in one step. Then you can just rename the new layer you created. Hope this makes sense. Thank you!
Hi! I will try that later ! Thank you!
I have literally been watching your videos all day grading a bodysuit/jumpsuit. Thank you again!
thasnk you for posting this,its the best grading vidio ive found on line for illistrater
I seriously never thought of doing this! I am both proficient at Illustrator and Gerber but I don't have Gerber at home, this is a very clever idea!
Alexandria Mitchell thanks! necessity is the mother of invention!
I just stumbled upon your channel - I was having trouble grading a short in Illustrator . You video helped me alot . Thanks
The best grading tutorial!! Thank you so much for making this. It's gonna save me a lot of money and trips.
HaEun Ko awe thank you so much!
Appreciate this very much! I've been going back and forth with grading and this video and I finally understand it! You are right the books do not explain it clearly. It has taken me a couple years to finally understand! Thank you so much!
Hello, this helped me immensely, I've been trying to figure out how to grade digitally for ages. Thanks very much. PS: your instructions are very clear.
I’ve got more coming up this week! i just uploaded one right now.
Thank you for coming back! 🙏🏾
I just recently used your video to help me get familiar with Adobe illustrator! Just like everyone else said this was definitely the easiest method to follow 🙌🏾 I see your not super active on her but if you ever see this and get the chance, a video on grading pants on Adobe would be sooooo helpful for me! Thanks I’m advance and I appreciate this video more than you know lol
Hey I’m here! I have responding to almost all comments for years- it’s just really hard to do videos! I’m terrible at them and my equipment is sub par 😂- but this sounds like a challenge. I grade pants a lot. Let’s see what happens. Maybe I’ll try this tomorrow?
@@helvetecaLLC terrible?! Not at all. Your tutorial was literally the only one On YT that I could really keep up with! I wouldn’t call that Terrible at all lol but yay, I’m excited you responded and I can’t wait for the upcoming video 🤗 Thanks again love!
Learned a lot here - thanks
The best grading tutorial ever!!! :D
+Louise Mortensen Awe thanks!
The best grading tutorial ever thank u
nova elhen thank you! It sucks that it’s so hard to find much about grading online right?
Woww 🤯, you’re amazing … can you make some basic/beginner drafting videos pleeaassee 🤍… I’ve bought books, and watched soooo many videos … you explain things so well & thorough.
I can- can you give me some ideas of what you’d want me to start with? RUclips doesn’t notify me of second replies so you may need to email them to me, found under the contact tab somewhere by my name up there
Mind blown!! I’ve been needing this forever! Thank you!
Thank you! That's easy and fast!
mind sufficiently blown. Thankyou!
Kathy Eather haha! Well thank you!
OMG this is the best thing ever!! I recently graduated from school where I made patterns in gerber and graded them.I don't have access to the software anymore since I graduated so this is amazing thank you sharing your tips!! :D
+malene petersen Yep I know exactly what you're saying... I tried to look into buying the Gerber program but there was just no way I can afford the amount of up to $60,000... I have been messing with Adobe for years to learn to make it like Gerber because you don't get taught this in school, you know? Don't you think there should be classes in school on how to grade and draft patterns in Illustrator?
Yeah its pricy but good though... I agree this should be thaught in school I had no idea you could do this in Illustrator and its more precise than doing it by hand:)
Hi, super helpful video, do you have like sizing charts for grading?
That is always a hard question. There's this thing called the ASTM you can look up online and it has some general sizing there, a bit hard to sift through but keep looking! If you can email me at miranda@helveteca.com I can help you!
Hi ...... are these grading increments the same for all sizes from 00 - 24 for example thanks so much Jayne x
Wow! I was looking for that magic button for the last three years! You literally saved a ton of hours for my future grading!only one question: If I got a size Small and grade between a size extra large, is there any way to get also the extra small without doing it manually?again Thank you so much for that video!!!
Hi ..... why is it when I try to blend the two sizes it all seems to break apart and looks so messy .... have I too many anchor points in my original pattern? Thank you so much Jayne x
Hi, I might need more info. Are you folllowing exactly along? Sometimes if you make one little mistake that you don’t notice you’re doing it can mess things up. Is it possible to send me a screenshot? Miranda@helveteca.com
@@helvetecaLLC hi ..... yes I will email you and thank you so much for your speedy reply x
Thank you..SO MUCH for this vid! I'm the most comfortable with AI, so it's wonderful that I can use it for patterning too
I just got my new MacBook Air so I will be jumping back into AI!
Excellent Tutorial greatly appreciated, Thank You.
Joel Calvary Thank you for the appreciation!
It's a great video. I'm interesting in tutorials video in Electra system. Thanks a lot for your dedication.
Oscar Reynoso thank you Oscar. I actually first learned all this on Lectra at school. It was a great program and I wish I can afford it
Thanks for answered me. Ive worked in the garment district in New York for over 4 decades and, the manufacturer that i work for does have a Lectra system. If in the future you would have the kindness of bring something out with this system. That would be great and appreciate it. Once again , thanks a lot.
Mind blown! I love this thank you!!
Anne Mena thank you so much
You are a godsend! Thank you sooo much for this!!
Thank you for showing me things I had NO IDEA Illustrator could do!! I do most of my pattern drafting on Illustrator because the program we have on campus sucks so bad. THANK YOU!!
Tyler Klene yeah it took me a while to figure things out in Illustrator because I really needed to be able to do computer drafting and grading. What program does your school use? I take classes sometimes at one of our schools and they use some program called PatternMaker which seems to be too generic.
We use Lectra Modaris which was translated from French, poorly, and basically has a fit and closes the program anytime you try to switch from the metric measurement system. I also haven't found anything that's compatible with it, it drives me CRAZY!
Tyler Klene yeah that's the program I learned on in school. It's was pretty ok but since I can't go home and use Lectra, I was happy to learn that illustrator can be used to do the same things. It just takes a while to teach yourself how!
Well I super greatly appreciate your work! Thank you again and again!!
Thank you so much for sharing. Rock star!!!
Thank you for the appreciation!
Thank you for this great video. I’m using adobe illustrator for ipad. Do you know how to use keyboard increment in ipad adobe illustrator?
I’ve looked and I can’t find much. I hardly use AI on iPad, I usually use Graphic for iPad and then export to desktop illustrator
@@helvetecaLLC Appreciate for your quick reply. Have a nice day ^_^
Hi, Thanks for the nice video, one question, can you please tell me what is the shortcut you used with direct select tool to get extra grading by moving 1/16?
I never saw your message ! Please put your suggestion in the comment section of my post and I will make a tips video for everyone!
Fantastic thank you!
You are genius!
Romana Jakess wish I was!
Did you do the printing tutorial? I can't see it on your page.
:)
Great tutorial, just one question. What is the rule for grading different points of a block or patterns? I am trying to grade a leotard pattern and I am stocked!
Hi and thank you for watching! The grade rules vary from garment type to garment type. I believe the rules for leotards (dance and swimwear) are 2” around and 1” vertically. Really confusing though so it’s something that will be easier to understand once you get to that “ah ha!” moment in grading. It’s confusing! I’m actually doing a leotard line right now so lets see if I can get a video together.
Thank you for that great tutorial.... please tell us how you get those numbers...Thank you again for that COOL video and grading method..
Hi and thank you for the comment! Grading can get quite complicated when it comes to explaining it in one video, but I will see what I can do, thanks!
Thank your for quick reply and i'm waiting for next your COOL grading video
Thank You for doing this. I have been waiting a loooong time for you to find the time. I am so happy you did. Not sure if I understand everything, but I am hung on your words " its really not that hard". I guess I will have to go and read up some more on how to add the grading points. Can you suggest any books or sites that can read up on grading and how to make the marks.
Hi! What I meant I think about it not being hard was the ruler readings. You gotta get to know a ruler very well and then grading is easier to understand.
Ooops I submitted my comment before I was done. Anyways I think my next tutorial will be getting to know the ruler in grading, and maybe I can break it down more clearly. This tutorial is more for people who know how to grade already and want to do it in Illustrator. Let me look for some books for you as well.
donnasfabulous Here are some books that may help, grading is tough though so read the reviews on these books first to see if you could benefit, some of these books are up to $700! This book here is allegedly THE BEST, but very high priced www.amazon.com/Professional-Pattern-Grading-Childrens-Apparel/dp/1563673193/ A lot of instructors us this book for how thorough it is www.amazon.com/Concepts-Pattern-Grading-2nd-Edition/dp/1563676974 AND this book here is good for beginners, you can download the e-version right now along with a grading ruler, make sure you pick that option in the pull down menu www.fashionpatterns.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=157
Loved this tutorial! Do you know of any good books I could read to learn more about grading in general and how to grade with different fabric types, body types, dresses vs swimwear etc.? Thank you
Hey I never got a notification on your message! Sorry about that! There is this one book and I can’t remember what it is, but it’s about $800 on Amazon, but it’s considered the industry best. Let me see if I can find it.
I love your videos, but I would also like to know what book is that please? Thank you!
This is an excellent tutorial! It was easy to understand and follow but I think I'm missing something and I hope you can help me. I've gotten to the point of using the blend tool, but when I do it, the outcome is not what you have. to put it simply, I get a replica of the 2 pieces I've clicked to get the blended middle piece but MUCH smaller! It didn't even bother to create a third blended pattern piece. Can you help?
Maybe I can but I’ll need to know exactly the steps you took personally. Are your settings the same as mine? Try clearing your page or opening a new one, then follow the tutorial exactly step by step again, even if you did it before, you could have missed something. Someone before had a similiar problem and she resolved it by going through the tutorial again. Also, make sure you have NO FILL on your lines in each layer. Sometimes that can be the culprit too,
helveteca thank you so much for your quick response! I followed the settings, but i will clear and do it again :-) i'll report back!
That was absolutely fantastic!! Thanks a lot. I just have covert to cm but it's ok, I am good at Math ;-)
Thank you so much for this. Quick question do you recommend grading a pattern before you add your own style lines and cut it up? How do I grade the different pieces?
Hi that’s actually a good question and I’ve asked myself this several times. It depends on a few things. So you have your base pattern, are you grading up and down to have a range of sizes for a particular style, or are you just grading one style to one size? I will usually first design my style in the pattern, then grade from there and that is how the industry does it for the most part. Or, like I’ve done before, I will grade a block pattern in a bunch of size ranges and have sometimes designed the styles in the blocks, but I wouldn’t say that is professional.
If you grade your style into several sizes, you would do it the same way you grade one piece. For example, let’s say you have a top with paneled pieces so it’s shut up like a puzzle piece. When you go to grade, you kind of put the puzzle pieces together and grade it together if you get confused, so you can see how each piece matches up with it’s partners. Does that make sense? If not, let me know.
Hi, I'm trying to answer from my experience, It depends on which you will use more. The base pattern, or the style? if you work for made-to-measure, suit or shirt bespoke, you might grade a block of pattern in a bunch of size range, choose the size of your client, and tweak from that, but if you are focused on the unique design, I think you should design your pattern first and grade them, recommend this if you work in bridal, or fashion that focus on their design, which you don't need to grade in all size and range.
Hi, Im looking into grading my own patterns for possibly selling my own patterns, I have no idea how to get the measurements to the largest size, do you know where I could get a basic set of measurements?
ZoeSews There's a website, not sure the name, but it's the ASTM website that has a bunch of "American Standards" on measurements and etc. Try googling ASTM STANDARDS and look in the garment sizing section. Let me know if you need more help.
helveteca thank you! I found a book that gives me all the points i need to grade up a size! Thank you
Hello! I need more of an explanation on the “magic trick” for when you create the medium grade. Like, for this to work, does the grades have to have to go increase/decrease by the same number? (Ex; they would all increase by 1.5 inches) Because I’m going up by 1 inch, then .5 inch, then 1.5 inch. Would that work?
Tell me more! If there are variation between each grade the magic isn't so magical haha, I never considered this, please email me with more info so I can address it in a video
😨😲 mind blown!
Hi, Excellent tutorial, this will help me out a lot. One question, you use the blend tool to create other sizes in between your grade lines. Is there a way to create grades automatically outside your largest grade size. For example you created sizes small to extra large here, but what if you wanted to now create extra large to say 4XL, can you get it to copy the increments outwards automatically to save having to draft the sizes yourself?
WW2Replicas I’m not sure, usually what I do is grade up to my largest size needed then fill the rest in from there. This isn’t a perfect system yet and can definitely be worked on. I’ll give what you’re asking a try and see what I can come up with.
please make a video grading a raglan pattern.thanks
Oh yes! Thats a great idea. It seems difficult but it actually isnt at all.
Thank you so much.. you've helped me sooo much! So.. I was able to grade my panties (xs-xl) can I get to plus sizes from this method?
Ashley Miller plus size is a different ball game. Once the body hits plus sizes, it begins to grow faster out and down (gravity pulling on parts of the body fleshier than smaller sizes). So the same rules don’t work! I have a subcontractor who is plus size that works for me, I will ask her. There are some books out there that do talk about plus size grading.
helveteca great.. thank you!
I'm trying to enhance my skills digitally so I can start doing this professionally, it's actually not hard once you get the hang of it! Could I email you from time to time if I have any other questions or message you through the comments?
Ashley Miller sure! Can’t guarantee I can get back to you immediately but I’m always willing to help
Ashley Miller oh and my subcontractor comes back from vacation on Monday and we just so happen to be grading a plus size pair of pants so I will see what info she’s got for you
helveteca thanks! Any updates? I recently read grading plus size goes up by 2.5" at the waist when grading patterns🤷🏼♀️
this was fantastic! i'm not great at maths but the way you had the units mapped out already above the 1/4 up ect was really helpful for me to understand!
I have a question about grading down a pattern that i already have. do you know where i can find a site that sells me how may 8ths or 4ths ect the shoulder slope or side seam corners have to move? I want to grade a pattern for myself thats slightly too big for myself and maybe make it for my friend who it is like at lest 1 size too big on.
Thanks for taking all this time to share with us!!
Hi and thank you! I do know of several books, and I think I have some sites somewhere that assist in grading. It's a bit of a complex skill to learn but if you keep doing it over and over it starts to click. I don't have them on hand right now but when I go in tomorrow I will get those for you.
Thanks a bunch, I was also thinking that I could also alter a pattern to a person by your ruler line but on the bust waist and hip ponts etc. Dart points and gathers would take some interesting practice 😀
Thanks a bunch!
+Allie G hi I have some book recommendations down in the comments here, just keep scrolling down and you will see where someone else asked for that info too. Check it out. Also grading by hand does get tricky once you start hitting slashes and gathers! I'd say that type of grading is definitely advanced although the more you practice the easier it gets
+helveteca Thanks 😀 really appreciate all the time you put into this!!
+helveteca Thanks 😀 really appreciate all the time you put into this!!
Hey I am wondering if you offer grading services and how much you would charge? I am running out of time and I need my patterns graded. Trying to teach myself to do it is not working. I have all of my patterns digitized and they are just basic slopers.
Hi yes I do. You can just go to my website it's the same name as my channel. But if you want to private message me I can also show you some other options as well. Depending on where you live
Thank you so much I just sent you an email!
WOW! Thank you!
No problem! Got lots more coming out too
Wait what are you pressing that’s making it move up and over by a 1/16 at a time ??
I think I explain it in Video 1 of digitizing, How to set up your board. Let me go back and take a look
Ok so I am using the arrow keys, up down left and right. To make it go in 1/16 increments, you need to go to the illustrator tab up in the upper left hand corner, go to preferences, and under General, you need to put .0625 into the “keyboard increments” section. That’s for 1/16. For any other increments, lets say, 1/4… you would use your calculator to do 1 divided by 4, which is .25. You would then put .25 in keyboard increments to make the cursor move a quarter inch at a time
Thank you so much
Shahid Hossain thank you for watching
what are your settings for a standard pattern like how big should the layout be?
It’s gotta be big enough to accommodate whatever pattern you’re working on, and you also got to keep in mind how you’re printing it too. If you are printing on a home printer with 8.5x11 sheets, then you could try to imagine how many sheets you’ll need to fit your pattern on... for example, let say your pattern fits on a page that is 14” across and 20” down, that would be 2 (8.5) pages across for a page total of 17”, and two pages down (11) for a total of 22” down. You’d want your art board in this example to be 17”x22”, does that make sense?
@@helvetecaLLC is it possible to do a big one and get professionally printed?
This is great! I just have one question, might be silly. Once you hit the points, where exactly in the adobe software are you placing numbers for it to move automatically. I tried doing it manually by dragging it but would like it to be more accurate. Thank you so much!
Hello, did you watch the first 3 minutes of the video? I actually walk you through how to set your point increments so that your grading is 100% accurate
I think she means that she didn't know you were moving the points with the arrow keys.
Anyone knows if this work with all basic patterns, I mean, dresses, pants, sleeves etc?
There are different methods required for different styles I believe, but the concept should be the same across the board.
pl inform how i can make in coral draw digtising pattren
hai 😊
i tried this tutorial and it does amazingly grading
buat sometime when i blend it the line get scattered all around. its not smooth
do you know what i did wrong in it? hope you can reply it .
thank you
Every once in a while that happens with some people. The problem is something in the settings. I’ll need to walk you through it step by step because it can be tricky. I don’t have illustrator any,ore though so I can’t go through it with you but I may be able to help another way
Hi, I have a question. So I would like to venture of the menswear side but in school we mainly focused on womenswear. I was never that strong in grading because I get so confused and overwhelmed when it comes to creating grade rules, if you have a chance can you help me with that. I know my sizes are 2" increments but I wanna know how I distribute those inches. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you for your videos
Hello! You ask a pretty complicated question! It's not something so easily answered in a single reply. How about we work from an example. What do you have that needs grading, and what is the size? What are you trying to grade it to, and maybe if it's not too long, I can do a demo video for you.
+helveteca i am trying to grade a men's jersey size small to xl using the 2" grade
+tendai mazorodze ok I see, so it needs to grade 2 sizes up, let me look into this, I have some men's jerseys here that I can possibly us to demo.
that would be awesome
can i please ask you how did u get the inches in the background??
+Silje Pedersen Yes it explains how if you go directly to the 2:00 minute mark. But if you mean you need them visible, go to VIEW, then go down to SHOW GRID.
(edited) question on scaling correctly
Ashley Miller hello, first of all, right after tracing and scaling up to be “true to size”, you’ll want to print right away and thrn compare to your actual pattern. Using this info, you can gauge what is off. Lay your pattern on top of your printed patttern made in Illustrator. This is important! After that, grading should turn out fairly perfect as long as all your base patterns are tested and walked. Let me know if I can clarify further
Hello, thank you for posting this. I believe I have a simple question. You're stating that you increasing your pattern by 2 sizes, 1 size equals 1/16" increase and 2 sizes up would be 2 x 1/16". I see that in your first relocated point "1/16U, but then you have "1/8R x 4". Why is the "R" right movement not the same as "1/16u x 2", meaning 1/16R" x 2? I appreciate your response in advance.
eenie ige hello! Not all points in the pattern size up in a uniform fashion, some points grow more than other points, which is why some points would move up or down more than other areas.
eenie ige also! I made some mistakes in my speech although I didn’t make mistakes in the actual tutorial, so my misspoken words might be an issue as well.
How are the grade rules determined? Where do the fractions come from?
Penney Dunmars The grade rules will be determined by your company's demographic. For example, the grade rules for a yoga line would obviously be different than the grade rules for a plus size line. People who work out grow differently than heavier set people and this would effect how you would grade your patterns. You can study how people grow and shrink in a beginners grading course. The fractions are representing how each point in a pattern grows. If you don't have a basic level of understanding on grading and fractions (or rulers), you will definitely be confused.
I love you mam !!! Please make more content if you have the time 🤍✨
I didn’t even realize I already commented on this video when I first watched it a year ago lol. I was just beginning to teach myself grading, with a much better understanding of that now, I decided to rewatch (every thing makes so much more sense now lol) , working on learning to digitize patterns now.
Okay, I swear this is my last comment 😂😂, but after you clicked W and used the blend tool to make the medium I was like “wwoooowwwww” and you immediately said “yea, ik, it’s awesome” 😂😂😂😂
What program do you use?
Olga Bennett Hello it's Adobe Illustrator CS5.5
Tks was great!!! I speak Spanish but you was speaking too clear, I was looking for optitex but now I am thinking I don't need
Carmen Vazquez Hi! optitex is awesome, and if I could choose, I would rather use Optitex over Illustrator, because Optitex is made specifically for this. But when on a budget, Illustrator works pretty well. Also, look into Patternmaker USA (Google it), very affordable. ALSO, look into VALENTINA, a FREE pattern drafting program!
helveteca tks you and keep in touch
Is grading knit fabrics the same steps?
Hi! Grading knits would be the same steps, but not the same rules. Once you get into swimwear and knitwear territory, things get a little more complicated. Stretch fabrics have a percentage of stretch along the grain, and then again in most cases along the cross grain. Maybe one day I will do a knit grade tutorial!
helveteca I hope so, your tutorials are the best! They’ve been so helpful and easy to follow!
Minute 4:23 you want to keep the small BUT YOU KEEP THE LARGE, WHAT JUST HAS HAPPENED THERE, VERY CONFUSING, and the you just played it off. And continued 😣😣😣😣😥😥😥😩😩
Just life haha “played it off” HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!
As a professional pattern grader , this is so nonsense. Honestly my brain just stoped ! This has nothing to do with grading ! Steps are wrong , procedure is wrong , never mind ........Illustrator ? Is like taking the hammer to break the mountain! Keep going .... I wonder on a complex pattern how you going to grade !
smartstickers DAAAAAAAAAMMMNNN someone’s pissed 😂 😂. Try to have a better day ok?
helveteca I have spent years learning pattern cutting and grading and because you ca move up an right couple lines you all think are pattern cutters?
@@smartstickers sorry to intrude, but why would you even click on this video if you knew this stuff so well?
Adobe Illustrator is not good way pattern designing forever cad software for
Pattern designing.