Most machinists would have clamped both pieces together (or if they are metal glued) drilled tapped countersink then chamfered to cut back on soo many unneeded steps. Just a hint for future there are some steps that can be missed that will speed it up more than any special gadget.
The feeling of adding that level of speed and versatility to a major tool can be incredibly liberating. It gives you back the most precious resource you have for creating - time. And to add that to a mill for only about ~$800, something that can save 45 min to an hour with each major use? It pays for itself quickly if you're a regular mill operator. Great add!
I am a machinist. Nice tool. They're very handy for short runs. Lol I was just thinking "why doesn't Adam just put a tap-matic on his drill press?", When he said his disclaimer about the method. BTW. What he did was a counter bore. A counter sink is conical. No biggy. Nice! Thanks!
Adam, please take note from a journeyman machinist and soon to be retired machine tool instructor. Your videos on machining are for sure entertaining and most informative for a weekend hobbyist. Think like a machinist please. Machinists would not do all operations to each hole and then move to the next. Before I get into specifics let me help you get more efficient. Don’t use a center drill on a milling machine. Invest in spot drills instead. You will find it most efficient and effective to spot drill your hole locations deep enough so that a countersink tool is not needed, saving one operation. ALWAYS countersink threaded holes BEFORE tapping them. Formula for correct depth on spot drills is for a 90 degree multiply your desired countersink diameter by .5 for correct depth. For a 118 degree spot drill, multiply your desired countersink diameter by .3. Back to the process. Complete all locations with one tool. Reset RPM accordingly, change tools, repeat. When you change tools and complete a hole location, changing RPMS each time is time consuming at best. Hope all this helps. Happy to do a virtual call with you anytime to share more knowledge.
Honestly seeing someone who really cares about what they do is a true joy. Recently I talked to a botanist, and I have no interest in botany. The way he talked about it though draws you in. He really cared was a joy. Same feeling from Adam. I think that was the magic of mythbusters. They did it for money sure, but it feels like it was an after thought.
That quick change looks awesome! I'll have to find one now. Quick FYI: Wood/plywood is not an ideal choice for tapered tooling racks. It holds moisture and can wick away any light oil, promoting rust. Most people who build a rack like you're using end up regretting it. Personally I love HDPE or UMHW for that. Even a dollar store HDPE cutting board would be a better choice than wood. Otherwise give it a good coat of furniture wax or similar, if you haven't already.
@@leemarsh3569 That’s a different problem: oak contains a lot of tannic acid, which is corrosive in a very quick way. Most woodworkers experience this when they glue up pieces of oak: moisture in the glue + metal clamps or squares + tannic acid = black stains on the wood.
Back in the late 80's in Pittsburgh you could get incredible metal working machines like this sometimes for nothing. As the mills began closing for good, press brakes, shears, punch presses, milling machines, lathes, and anything else you could think of became available extremely cheap. What couldn't be auctioned off would sometimes be given away provided you had the means to transport it from where it stood. This is how my father started his machine shop. I love maker channels like Adam's. They take me back to my childhood watching my dad turn raw steel into all kinds of useful parts!
Just today I drilled and tapped 676 holes in an aluminum fixture plate on HAAS Vf4. Took 2 hours. I cant imagine guys doing that manually on a Bridgeport. Awesome!!
Wow, you would think that a quick change item like this would be popular. I have quick change stuff for my simple drill and won't do without. Thanks, Adam for this show-n-tell and demo.
My thought is that 90% of the folks that would have had this back 30+ years ago are the AVE type folks who have all graduated to CNC mills with auto-changing tools. It's still cool. Good Purchase!
90% of people who would be doing this just can't anymore because nowadays all manufacturing left in the USA has had to speed up and increase quality and 96 axis CNC machines are the only way for us to compete anymore and the jobs that taught this have all moved overseas or has advanced into the CNC machines
Adam, thank you for adding to the collective conscious and sharing your knowledge! You are an asset to us all and i thank you very much for all your time!
19:45 I always called that a counter-bore as it creates a flat-bottomed hole. Counter-sinks make conical bottomed holes. At least that's how it works in my head.
Hi and thanks for another great video. As a CAD Technician I'm required to know all of the theory and practices in manufacturing processes, but seeing it used is what rounds of my knowledge and each one of your videos is a finer grit paper. If I was to suggest an equivalent to a quick tool changer it would be the space mouse, in my craft vision is key and getting that view quickly really counts. Thanks, Paul in Scotland.
Last year we cleaned the place I work at and found an optical DRO , I put it away so it doesn't get thrown away , even if it's not working , it's still a pice of art , the place where I work at got over 50 years of history and some equipment is really old
I really appreciate stuff like this because I have a manufacturing job where efficiency is everything. Seconds matter when you are producing literally thousands of the same thing every day. Even at home when building something in the basement or repairing a fence, if you have to swap between tools frequently it's very satisfying to figure out a way to do it efficiently.
This really reminds me of The Link, a removable shaft for an arcade stick (thus making the stick much more portable). It's a similar idea of two tapered cylinders precisely machined to fit together, though you wouldn't be changing the top end often, if at all.
The other big advantage of a tool changer like that, is you get consistent tool offsets which you can save in the DRO. So you don't need to touch off the tool each time you change if the depths are critical. This is mostly useful for counterboring but also counter sinking. It's very useful for endmills if Adam can solve the runout problem. These things should have a runout measured in tenth of a thousandth not thousands of an inch.
I think they’re called counterbores for cap or shouldered screws, as opposed to countersinks for flat headed screws. Love the ingenuity of this system.
I kind of developed my own system out of necessity - I make pens and each one uses like 14 drilling and tapping operations. I use "motor shaft" collet chucks - they're an ER16 or ER20 collet chuck, which you can mount onto a motor shaft (typically 6, 8, 10, 12mm). I install each drill bit into its own collet, and with my 10mm shafts it means any drill bit change in the range of the holders is just a quarter turn in and out of my tailstock. I love it!
I ran CNC mills to make boat parts and lawn chair pieces by the tens of thousands. A mill machine is amazing tool that can do lots of jobs. We even used them with a plasma cutter..
just a tidbit of information for you, when you "countersink" for a caphead screw (or anything with a larger hole ontop a smaller one) it is called a counterbore not countersink
I've got a desktop 3018 pro that I've had for over a year and so far I have got as far as making sure it switches on. Getting to grips with the software has my brain in a spin sometimes, always amazed how some people make these machines look so easy.
Used to work in a TnD shop when in engineering school and the owner designed a phematic power draw bar for the Bridgeport. You'd hit a toggle switch to tighten/loosen the collet. It could cycle (depending on how quick you could pull the next collet mounted tool out of the tooI carousel) a toold change in just a few seconds. He sold quite a few of those the shops with older Bridgeports around the country. This method wouldn't have the concentricity issues.
I have the old Laip quick change system. You can swap the tools while the machine is running (max 2000rpm). Love that system. It's super fast on machines with fast speed regulation
Thanks for the comment about the tapping being done by "touch." I was starting to wonder if you had some magic tool holder that kept it from wiping out the threads or breaking the tap as you go.
I always enjoy watching and listening to Adam, it never fails that I learn something - many thanks to Sir Savage for taking time and effort to share many a hard-earned nugget of wisdom! When I was studying Engineering Design, my Machining instructor stressed that when tightening a keyed chuck, to do so progressively around the circumference of the chuck at a minimum of three key holes for better centering...ahhh, i feel better now :) Anybody know if my OCD was correct?
There also exist (though I have not ever used) Erickson QC-30 spindles for the mill (rather than R8). No drawbar required, and you also don't lose the rigidity it concentricity of the spindle the way you do with the adapter. As somebody with a low basement 'ceiling' over my Bridgeport, I've been hunting for such a spindle to rebuild my JHead with.
Unless you have a Haas (or other brand) CNC with an automatic tool changer (and all of the CAD/CAM experience/software to go with it), this is the best manual solution for projects requiring multiple tool changes. Very cool Adam! Thank you so much for the great content (as always). Totally agree with NOT using quick tool change for milling bits on precision pieces. Happy Holidays! Cheers, Jeff (Garage Maker Guy)
All the things you want to do can be done with a drill chuck. If you get a keyless chuck, like an Albrecht, you won't even need a key. With a DRO and a list of numbers, you can mount a tool, do an operation on all of your locations, mount another tool, do another operation, and so on. You don't need to change tools over and over. You don't really need a DRO, but it makes things easier. You should get an edge finder and a work stop for the vise.
You can speed it up even more if you use symmetry. Add a vise stop and you can repeatedly register one corner of the plate in the back left (or right) corner. If you then make sure your plates are the same dimensions you can get the four corner holes without moving the mill table just by spinning or flipping the plate - the vise stop taking care of the positioning. The inner holes can then be done with just two moves - or less for operations like the through-drill or tap where it doesn't matter which side you start from.
My american friend who used to work at general electrics thought that it's much more time efficient to finish 1 process at a time. I think the first method was efficient. I like your setup on the mill stay safe
@@robadams1645 It depends on tooling. If all you have are R8 collets like at my job, it's better to keep the same tool in. But with dedicated tool holders, you can make up some serious time.
@@GeneralChangFromDanang The most efficient method also depends on how far you are needing to move the workpiece between locations, and how many individual locations there are.
Back in the ‘80s I was teaching high school metal shop in Alameda. I got a summer job at Diamond Tool. I remember using that tool holder. It’s designed to make your tool changes with the machine running. I still have all of my fingers.
Hello Adam, Just use a centerdrill, or chamfer tool (don't know how you call this in the USA) that has a good web thining or in german 'kegelmantelanschliff' so you can drill straight into the material, for example a 90degrees x 10mm centerdrill(not the 60degrees one with the little tip you showed, these you normaly use for the support center tailstock on a lathe). Drill it deep enough so that you already have the chamfer for your thread on one side. Then rotate the workpiece and do the same, then drilling and tapping.. this saves you a lot of work.. You also don't want to chamfer after threading beqause you get extra burrs in the thread hole.. Sorry for the bad english i'm from the Netherlands. Best regards, Mark Geurts
Using a short, stright shank for your drill chuck along with a 1/2" or 5/8" R8 collet makes swapping chucks easier since you don't have to change collets but you still need to loosen the collet. That big adapter is pretty nifty but wouldn't work on a small/compact mill due to the stack height. Also, I've noticed that not all JT33 type shank adapters are created equal; some have longer OAL when mounted than others.
I just had a project where I was doing precisely the project you described. It was an absolute pain in the butt with just a drill press, and my hole registrations were unfortunately off, and I would have benefitted greatly with a mill with this setup.
Mr. Adam, love your videos all the way back to early Mythbusters seasons, and I’d like to suggest a helpful tip if you would like to be even more efficient in your milling operations. Please consider “combining them” , as in: using a stub length split point drill bit (screw machine length) to do the first two operations of spotting and drilling in one. The short length of the drill bit combined with split point tip, to minimize walking, allows spotting and drilling in one shot, vast majority of the time. Hope this helps :) Awesome content!
I think a company called Royal makes or made a set called the 'R8 Quick-Change Tooling System'. I don't know if it's what you were looking for or how available it is, but I thought I'd mention it.
Adam your shop is amazing !!! A inventors dream ! Would love to see your shop if you would be willing to do a shop tour that be a video I’d love to see
The main mill quick change tooling I'm familiar with is the TTS system. I'm curious how the two compare. The TIR for TTS is certainly better than the 3-5 thou that you describe for the one you picked up. But TTS more or less requires a power draw bar for the 'quick' part to be meaningful. What else is different?
The desktop CNC mill in our Hacklab uses BT30 tool-holders which are quick-change and also integrate with an automatic tool-changer (which we sadly don't have) like bigger "real" CNC mills. I'd be surprised if the Sharp mill you bought doesn't have a BT30 or BT40 spindle option rather than the R8 manual-change toolholder option. Commodity BT40 tool-holders are good to about 10 microns runout, 5 microns if you pay mucho bucks and have a machine that is in spec.
It’s kinda a great feel to use what seems like some guys great idea that was done with precision and just not taken the appreciation it needed at the time to hit it big. It’s like paying homage to their work. Glad it go into the right hands. The history of the journey of a tool would be an AWESOME show. What was the life of this tool before it got to you!?
There is Rapi-Change holder R8 from Boyar-Shultz. I have 3 (two have the same run out as yours but one of them runs out less to 0.001". They are madly expensive. Each collet goes for about $180 a piece. It is 1/3 of the your speed collet holder size.
Good afternoon Mr. Savage, This is random but I’m currently shopping for a tiny edc flashlight and I know you’re a fan of those… have you found something you can recommend? Thanks! Andres
Did you indicate on the tool it’s self. A lot of tool holders are not accurate on the OD of the holder. The Cat 40 tool holders I use are .005 or so TIR out of center but the tool are held perfectly centered.
Could someone please confirm my perception that this tapping method relies on the quill being 'drawn' into the hole by the spiral flute tap's threads and the mill being stopped using the brake before the tap reaches the end of its travel? I am guessing Adam is guiding the quill feed handle/ lever rather than soley controlling the plunge rate? Thanks. Love the tool changer - like a big version of my impact driver's bit quick changer!
Hi Adam, I've really been into your machining videos and have also thought about building myself an electric guitar. I want it to be wild and thought of having an aluminum or brass fretboard. Thing is fretboards are ever so slightly curved and tampered. So my question is: How would you go about making a piece of metal with the sort of tamper and curvature fretboards have?
a great tool Adam, but a real good use for it is to find a way of putting this holder on a lathes' tailstock quill, to speed up changing a center drill and other drills for lathe operations.
at 19:49 this is NOT a counter-sink, it is a counter BORE, ADAM, there is a difference, a counter sink is a 60 degree tapered socket for wood screws, a counter bore is the parallell diamater to house the allen machine screws' head flush to the surface, aka like on cylinder head bolts, exhaust manifolds, etc.
Pro tip: if you use a VFD with a breaking resistor you can get the spindle to stop very quickly. The way Adam was grabbing the spindle as it was still spinning scares the crap out of me. The way I have my Bridgeport set up I can stop the spindle in a second without using the mechanical break. The VFD also makes it easy to reduce speed for something like a tap where you really don't need the torque. It also allows you to get much lower speeds if needed (one time I needed to run a 6" hole saw in stainless at around 40RPM). Keep up the good work, and try to not let the mill finish the job the lathe started.
Machinist pro tip: spot your tapped hole chamfers. Just use a spot drill that's large enough to make a spot Ø0.05" larger than the tap diameter, then drill, then tap. You skip a whole step, and you don't run the risk of folding over your starting threads and making issues in final assembly.
Do you not have a drill chuck on an R8 arbor for your mill??? I only see this saving time if your holes are not through holes and the depths are critical.
Yup. At a moment’s glance, at first I thought I could see a whole lot of Silicon graphics’ indigo2s in 2 racks behind him. But then I thought, ‘those aren’t all rack mounted desktop units. Those are power conditioners!’ But then I finally noticed after deciding they might be amplifiers, numbering about thirty or so, I finally noticed the detail that gives it away. The latches, two on each little suitcase stored there. Some type of tool sets, or maybe just empty cases awaiting collets and end mills, or whatever else this mad man has awaiting delivery once it’s off loaded from those tugboats out there in the water that he has moving his stuff around for him…
Quick change tools are great for mills. I use Zürn Mikro Klick. Also very good, but as yours a bit large. I would prefer the Royal R8 quick change tool holders. You should take. A look at those ☺️👍
Can someone explain his tapping process? It seems like he is using the material itself to slow down the tap while it is going in - but why does it not break or mess up the thread with such a quick operation while being lowered and lifted manually?
I'm a little confused and I think its ignorance. I thought mills had that pneumatic tool grabber where you press a button and the tool falls out? and if it does have that? why not collect more chucks with the taper your mill has instead of adding another thing hanging out of it? is this taper cheaper than the taper of the mill?
When I worked at a welding and machine shop, the drill there had a quick release that used a tool that looks like a sickle. I don't know how it impacted the tolerances.
Yeah, that whole operation would've taken about a minute on a CNC mill (not counting the CAD time of course). Can't wait to get my VMC back together and start actually making some cool stuff!
In case you missed it, here's the show and tell of Adam's new milling machine: ruclips.net/video/j8_EoUXvTJk/видео.html
I would like to see if you can do the impossible. A model of The Uss Discovery refit with separated nacelles.
Um, there better be a video about the Blade Runner 2049 memory machine in the future. I saw that Tested and Adam.
where can we buy the tooling, they aren't available
Most machinists would have clamped both pieces together (or if they are metal glued) drilled tapped countersink then chamfered to cut back on soo many unneeded steps. Just a hint for future there are some steps that can be missed that will speed it up more than any special gadget.
@@ProfaneGod or use a set of registration pins/fixture to align the plates and hold them reputably in the vise.
Leave it to Adam to explain what a mill is by telling us about it's probable role in a post-apocalyptic world. Love it!
YES
The feeling of adding that level of speed and versatility to a major tool can be incredibly liberating. It gives you back the most precious resource you have for creating - time. And to add that to a mill for only about ~$800, something that can save 45 min to an hour with each major use? It pays for itself quickly if you're a regular mill operator. Great add!
I am a machinist. Nice tool. They're very handy for short runs. Lol I was just thinking "why doesn't Adam just put a tap-matic on his drill press?", When he said his disclaimer about the method. BTW. What he did was a counter bore. A counter sink is conical. No biggy. Nice! Thanks!
It hurt me when he called the counterbore a countersink. OCD and being a machinist is hard life.
@@jeremymiller1088 Do you call your milling machine Miller`s miller?
@@th0r41f No, but I should from now on.
@@jeremymiller1088 lol miller the milling man's milling machine
He needs a tap-matic
Adam, please take note from a journeyman machinist and soon to be retired machine tool instructor. Your videos on machining are for sure entertaining and most informative for a weekend hobbyist. Think like a machinist please. Machinists would not do all operations to each hole and then move to the next. Before I get into specifics let me help you get more efficient. Don’t use a center drill on a milling machine. Invest in spot drills instead. You will find it most efficient and effective to spot drill your hole locations deep enough so that a countersink tool is not needed, saving one operation. ALWAYS countersink threaded holes BEFORE tapping them. Formula for correct depth on spot drills is for a 90 degree multiply your desired countersink diameter by .5 for correct depth. For a 118 degree spot drill, multiply your desired countersink diameter by .3. Back to the process. Complete all locations with one tool. Reset RPM accordingly, change tools, repeat. When you change tools and complete a hole location, changing RPMS each time is time consuming at best. Hope all this helps. Happy to do a virtual call with you anytime to share more knowledge.
Honestly seeing someone who really cares about what they do is a true joy. Recently I talked to a botanist, and I have no interest in botany. The way he talked about it though draws you in. He really cared was a joy. Same feeling from Adam. I think that was the magic of mythbusters. They did it for money sure, but it feels like it was an after thought.
That quick change looks awesome! I'll have to find one now. Quick FYI: Wood/plywood is not an ideal choice for tapered tooling racks. It holds moisture and can wick away any light oil, promoting rust. Most people who build a rack like you're using end up regretting it. Personally I love HDPE or UMHW for that. Even a dollar store HDPE cutting board would be a better choice than wood. Otherwise give it a good coat of furniture wax or similar, if you haven't already.
I was always told never to use oak as it rusts metal. Didn’t think plywood would do the same.
A rattle can of paint. Then spray gun oil over the part. This also good oil to tools you don't use often.
@@leemarsh3569 That’s a different problem: oak contains a lot of tannic acid, which is corrosive in a very quick way. Most woodworkers experience this when they glue up pieces of oak: moisture in the glue + metal clamps or squares + tannic acid = black stains on the wood.
Soak the plywood rack with tung oil and then wax it with paste wax to prevent it from holding water against the ground surfaces of the tooling.
I'd also say, soak it good in some kind of oil and it won't be a problem
Adam showing his machine like a boy showing off his toys to his friends in very exitment I love this guy very inspiring
I do this all the time, only no one listens to me.. Guess I should get better at storytelling.
Back in the late 80's in Pittsburgh you could get incredible metal working machines like this sometimes for nothing. As the mills began closing for good, press brakes, shears, punch presses, milling machines, lathes, and anything else you could think of became available extremely cheap. What couldn't be auctioned off would sometimes be given away provided you had the means to transport it from where it stood. This is how my father started his machine shop. I love maker channels like Adam's. They take me back to my childhood watching my dad turn raw steel into all kinds of useful parts!
I'd imagine a similar process went on in Detroit when the major car manufacturers crashed out..
Just today I drilled and tapped 676 holes in an aluminum fixture plate on HAAS Vf4. Took 2 hours. I cant imagine guys doing that manually on a Bridgeport. Awesome!!
Wow, you would think that a quick change item like this would be popular. I have quick change stuff for my simple drill and won't do without. Thanks, Adam for this show-n-tell and demo.
My thought is that 90% of the folks that would have had this back 30+ years ago are the AVE type folks who have all graduated to CNC mills with auto-changing tools. It's still cool. Good Purchase!
90% of people who would be doing this just can't anymore because nowadays all manufacturing left in the USA has had to speed up and increase quality and 96 axis CNC machines are the only way for us to compete anymore and the jobs that taught this have all moved overseas or has advanced into the CNC machines
Adam, thank you for adding to the collective conscious and sharing your knowledge! You are an asset to us all and i thank you very much for all your time!
19:45 I always called that a counter-bore as it creates a flat-bottomed hole. Counter-sinks make conical bottomed holes. At least that's how it works in my head.
Hi and thanks for another great video. As a CAD Technician I'm required to know all of the theory and practices in manufacturing processes, but seeing it used is what rounds of my knowledge and each one of your videos is a finer grit paper. If I was to suggest an equivalent to a quick tool changer it would be the space mouse, in my craft vision is key and getting that view quickly really counts. Thanks, Paul in Scotland.
Last year we cleaned the place I work at and found an optical DRO , I put it away so it doesn't get thrown away , even if it's not working , it's still a pice of art , the place where I work at got over 50 years of history and some equipment is really old
I really appreciate stuff like this because I have a manufacturing job where efficiency is everything. Seconds matter when you are producing literally thousands of the same thing every day. Even at home when building something in the basement or repairing a fence, if you have to swap between tools frequently it's very satisfying to figure out a way to do it efficiently.
13:25 i suggest to first chamfer the hole before you tap the hole. This in connection with the burr that occurs after tapping.
Next item to put on the wish list: A Tapmatic tapping head :-D
Have one and totally enjoy every time I have to do multiple threads!
This really reminds me of The Link, a removable shaft for an arcade stick (thus making the stick much more portable). It's a similar idea of two tapered cylinders precisely machined to fit together, though you wouldn't be changing the top end often, if at all.
The other big advantage of a tool changer like that, is you get consistent tool offsets which you can save in the DRO. So you don't need to touch off the tool each time you change if the depths are critical. This is mostly useful for counterboring but also counter sinking. It's very useful for endmills if Adam can solve the runout problem. These things should have a runout measured in tenth of a thousandth not thousands of an inch.
They are ok for plastics and light alloy. Precision milling steel is another matter.
your_xxx-C32 fast & precise & power
notice though that he doesn't leave them installed... he sets them up for each run
I think they’re called counterbores for cap or shouldered screws, as opposed to countersinks for flat headed screws. Love the ingenuity of this system.
I kind of developed my own system out of necessity - I make pens and each one uses like 14 drilling and tapping operations. I use "motor shaft" collet chucks - they're an ER16 or ER20 collet chuck, which you can mount onto a motor shaft (typically 6, 8, 10, 12mm). I install each drill bit into its own collet, and with my 10mm shafts it means any drill bit change in the range of the holders is just a quarter turn in and out of my tailstock. I love it!
I ran CNC mills to make boat parts and lawn chair pieces by the tens of thousands. A mill machine is amazing tool that can do lots of jobs. We even used them with a plasma cutter..
just a tidbit of information for you, when you "countersink" for a caphead screw (or anything with a larger hole ontop a smaller one) it is called a counterbore not countersink
I've got a desktop 3018 pro that I've had for over a year and so far I have got as far as making sure it switches on.
Getting to grips with the software has my brain in a spin sometimes, always amazed how some people make these machines look so easy.
Used to work in a TnD shop when in engineering school and the owner designed a phematic power draw bar for the Bridgeport. You'd hit a toggle switch to tighten/loosen the collet. It could cycle (depending on how quick you could pull the next collet mounted tool out of the tooI carousel) a toold change in just a few seconds. He sold quite a few of those the shops with older Bridgeports around the country. This method wouldn't have the concentricity issues.
I have the old Laip quick change system. You can swap the tools while the machine is running (max 2000rpm). Love that system. It's super fast on machines with fast speed regulation
Thanks for the comment about the tapping being done by "touch." I was starting to wonder if you had some magic tool holder that kept it from wiping out the threads or breaking the tap as you go.
I always enjoy watching and listening to Adam, it never fails that I learn something - many thanks to Sir Savage for taking time and effort to share many a hard-earned nugget of wisdom! When I was studying Engineering Design, my Machining instructor stressed that when tightening a keyed chuck, to do so progressively around the circumference of the chuck at a minimum of three key holes for better centering...ahhh, i feel better now :) Anybody know if my OCD was correct?
Depends upon whether the chuck jaws are self-centring ofc.. ;)
I think I have done all of those patch jobs (Maybe since 8, possibly sooner). So, Kudos to you I continue to try and teach people
Thanks so much Adam for the RUclips work that you put up for me for us for free!
There also exist (though I have not ever used) Erickson QC-30 spindles for the mill (rather than R8).
No drawbar required, and you also don't lose the rigidity it concentricity of the spindle the way you do with the adapter.
As somebody with a low basement 'ceiling' over my Bridgeport, I've been hunting for such a spindle to rebuild my JHead with.
Unless you have a Haas (or other brand) CNC with an automatic tool changer (and all of the CAD/CAM experience/software to go with it), this is the best manual solution for projects requiring multiple tool changes. Very cool Adam! Thank you so much for the great content (as always). Totally agree with NOT using quick tool change for milling bits on precision pieces.
Happy Holidays!
Cheers,
Jeff (Garage Maker Guy)
All the things you want to do can be done with a drill chuck. If you get a keyless chuck, like an Albrecht, you won't even need a key.
With a DRO and a list of numbers, you can mount a tool, do an operation on all of your locations, mount another tool, do another operation, and so on. You don't need to change tools over and over. You don't really need a DRO, but it makes things easier.
You should get an edge finder and a work stop for the vise.
You can speed it up even more if you use symmetry. Add a vise stop and you can repeatedly register one corner of the plate in the back left (or right) corner. If you then make sure your plates are the same dimensions you can get the four corner holes without moving the mill table just by spinning or flipping the plate - the vise stop taking care of the positioning. The inner holes can then be done with just two moves - or less for operations like the through-drill or tap where it doesn't matter which side you start from.
My american friend who used to work at general electrics thought that it's much more time efficient to finish 1 process at a time. I think the first method was efficient. I like your setup on the mill stay safe
I agree. At first it seemed inefficient to swap tools for each hole, but that is more efficient than moving the piece multiple times.
@@robadams1645 It depends on tooling. If all you have are R8 collets like at my job, it's better to keep the same tool in. But with dedicated tool holders, you can make up some serious time.
@@GeneralChangFromDanang The most efficient method also depends on how far you are needing to move the workpiece between locations, and how many individual locations there are.
I bought the Mach-1 quick change system for my Bridgeport, about 2-3 years ago. Makes it actually fun to change mills now, lol.
Back in the ‘80s I was teaching high school metal shop in Alameda. I got a summer job at Diamond Tool. I remember using that tool holder. It’s designed to make your tool changes with the machine running. I still have all of my fingers.
It's Christmas all year long for Adam. It seems like he always has a new toy.
Merry Christmas to Adam and the Gang.
🎅🎄❤
Hello Adam, Just use a centerdrill, or chamfer tool (don't know how you call this in the USA) that has a good web thining or in german 'kegelmantelanschliff' so you can drill straight into the material, for example a 90degrees x 10mm centerdrill(not the 60degrees one with the little tip you showed, these you normaly use for the support center tailstock on a lathe). Drill it deep enough so that you already have the chamfer for your thread on one side. Then rotate the workpiece and do the same, then drilling and tapping.. this saves you a lot of work.. You also don't want to chamfer after threading beqause you get extra burrs in the thread hole..
Sorry for the bad english i'm from the Netherlands.
Best regards,
Mark Geurts
If you're doing a lot, set the depth stop on your center drill to get the desired chamfer diameter.
Using a short, stright shank for your drill chuck along with a 1/2" or 5/8" R8 collet makes swapping chucks easier since you don't have to change collets but you still need to loosen the collet. That big adapter is pretty nifty but wouldn't work on a small/compact mill due to the stack height. Also, I've noticed that not all JT33 type shank adapters are created equal; some have longer OAL when mounted than others.
I haven't seen that kind of quick change system before, pretty cool! The tool you used at the end is a counter-boring tool, not a countersink tool.
I just had a project where I was doing precisely the project you described. It was an absolute pain in the butt with just a drill press, and my hole registrations were unfortunately off, and I would have benefitted greatly with a mill with this setup.
Mr. Adam, love your videos all the way back to early Mythbusters seasons, and I’d like to suggest a helpful tip if you would like to be even more efficient in your milling operations. Please consider “combining them” , as in: using a stub length split point drill bit (screw machine length) to do the first two operations of spotting and drilling in one. The short length of the drill bit combined with split point tip, to minimize walking, allows spotting and drilling in one shot, vast majority of the time. Hope this helps :) Awesome content!
I think a company called Royal makes or made a set called the 'R8 Quick-Change Tooling System'. I don't know if it's what you were looking for or how available it is, but I thought I'd mention it.
Watching Adam run the mill reminds me of “the man behind the curtain” with all the levers, wheels and buttons! Lol. Great video:)
Savage robotics
Thanks for another great video. I so want a big mill like that!
I love your setup. My top tool on my wishlist right now is to get a small mill in my garage. I'm not sure when I will be able to afford it.
>touching your paintjob
You're speaking to my soul, Mr. Savage.....
Adam your shop is amazing !!! A inventors dream ! Would love to see your shop if you would be willing to do a shop tour that be a video I’d love to see
Quick change holders are available with much tighter runout, if you ever want to mount every tool in one.
Great episode, I have one that was made by Bridgeport themselves. Uses a keyed chuck to switch collets.
The main mill quick change tooling I'm familiar with is the TTS system. I'm curious how the two compare. The TIR for TTS is certainly better than the 3-5 thou that you describe for the one you picked up. But TTS more or less requires a power draw bar for the 'quick' part to be meaningful. What else is different?
Question for Adam cant you just put in for it to do it its self like a program code an distances ???? That mill has a automated function dosent it
The desktop CNC mill in our Hacklab uses BT30 tool-holders which are quick-change and also integrate with an automatic tool-changer (which we sadly don't have) like bigger "real" CNC mills. I'd be surprised if the Sharp mill you bought doesn't have a BT30 or BT40 spindle option rather than the R8 manual-change toolholder option. Commodity BT40 tool-holders are good to about 10 microns runout, 5 microns if you pay mucho bucks and have a machine that is in spec.
It’s kinda a great feel to use what seems like some guys great idea that was done with precision and just not taken the appreciation it needed at the time to hit it big. It’s like paying homage to their work. Glad it go into the right hands. The history of the journey of a tool would be an AWESOME show. What was the life of this tool before it got to you!?
There is Rapi-Change holder R8 from Boyar-Shultz. I have 3 (two have the same run out as yours but one of them runs out less to 0.001". They are madly expensive. Each collet goes for about $180 a piece. It is 1/3 of the your speed collet holder size.
The fact that he tapped all those holes flawlessly on a mill blows my mind that just shows more of Adams diverse skill set!
The company that makes that tool should send Adam a gift basket. This is great free advertising
"Let's get you some close-ups" - Adam Savages back, up close alright! :D
What id give to have a shop like his!! And it would be great to know someone like him to build random things with he knows his stuff.
Please tell me there’s going to be a build series for the memory orb. Maybe my favorite hand prop from all of 2049.
Was just gonna say... just dropping that memory orb on us nbd lol. Gotta see more!
Good afternoon Mr. Savage,
This is random but I’m currently shopping for a tiny edc flashlight and I know you’re a fan of those… have you found something you can recommend? Thanks!
Andres
Did you indicate on the tool it’s self. A lot of tool holders are not accurate on the OD of the holder. The Cat 40 tool holders I use are .005 or so TIR out of center but the tool are held perfectly centered.
Could someone please confirm my perception that this tapping method relies on the quill being 'drawn' into the hole by the spiral flute tap's threads and the mill being stopped using the brake before the tap reaches the end of its travel? I am guessing Adam is guiding the quill feed handle/ lever rather than soley controlling the plunge rate? Thanks. Love the tool changer - like a big version of my impact driver's bit quick changer!
I’d love to see an updated shop tour video
That tool holder looks like such a massive time saver, however, look what's on the desk!!! 😮😮😮😮 When is THAT video coming!?
Hi Adam,
I've really been into your machining videos and have also thought about building myself an electric guitar. I want it to be wild and thought of having an aluminum or brass fretboard. Thing is fretboards are ever so slightly curved and tampered.
So my question is: How would you go about making a piece of metal with the sort of tamper and curvature fretboards have?
a great tool Adam, but a real good use for it is to find a way of putting this holder on a lathes' tailstock quill, to speed up changing a center drill and other drills for lathe operations.
At 0:05 we get a hint of a New York accent peaking through. Love it.
nice quick changer, ever tried putting her in back gear for tapping? its a little lesss scary and the tap and quill follow better.
It's like changing an air compressor tool, they have that quick change collar. Very good idea!
These more hands on favourite tool videos are far better than just the talking head ones.
at 19:49 this is NOT a counter-sink, it is a counter BORE, ADAM, there is a difference, a counter sink is a 60 degree tapered socket for wood screws, a counter bore is the parallell diamater to house the allen machine screws' head flush to the surface, aka like on cylinder head bolts, exhaust manifolds, etc.
It isn't understatement to say without the machine trade and the machine tools they use the world we live in would not exist.
Royal currently still makes what is essentially this device in a different pattern, little more low profile. It is not cheap
thanks so much Adam for the great video i have just got a new jet bandsaw highly recomend
Pro tip: if you use a VFD with a breaking resistor you can get the spindle to stop very quickly. The way Adam was grabbing the spindle as it was still spinning scares the crap out of me. The way I have my Bridgeport set up I can stop the spindle in a second without using the mechanical break. The VFD also makes it easy to reduce speed for something like a tap where you really don't need the torque. It also allows you to get much lower speeds if needed (one time I needed to run a 6" hole saw in stainless at around 40RPM).
Keep up the good work, and try to not let the mill finish the job the lathe started.
Machinist pro tip: spot your tapped hole chamfers. Just use a spot drill that's large enough to make a spot Ø0.05" larger than the tap diameter, then drill, then tap. You skip a whole step, and you don't run the risk of folding over your starting threads and making issues in final assembly.
Do you not have a drill chuck on an R8 arbor for your mill??? I only see this saving time if your holes are not through holes and the depths are critical.
Yup. At a moment’s glance, at first I thought I could see a whole lot of Silicon graphics’ indigo2s in 2 racks behind him. But then I thought, ‘those aren’t all rack mounted desktop units. Those are power conditioners!’ But then I finally noticed after deciding they might be amplifiers, numbering about thirty or so, I finally noticed the detail that gives it away. The latches, two on each little suitcase stored there. Some type of tool sets, or maybe just empty cases awaiting collets and end mills, or whatever else this mad man has awaiting delivery once it’s off loaded from those tugboats out there in the water that he has moving his stuff around for him…
Machining videos are my favourite .
Quick change tools are great for mills. I use Zürn Mikro Klick. Also very good, but as yours a bit large. I would prefer the Royal R8 quick change tool holders. You should take. A look at those ☺️👍
Cool episode. And now I need to see a properly weathered replica of Stanley Kubriks directors chair please!
Way too excited for a Wednesday 😁 I love it.
Can someone explain his tapping process? It seems like he is using the material itself to slow down the tap while it is going in - but why does it not break or mess up the thread with such a quick operation while being lowered and lifted manually?
I'm a little confused and I think its ignorance. I thought mills had that pneumatic tool grabber where you press a button and the tool falls out? and if it does have that? why not collect more chucks with the taper your mill has instead of adding another thing hanging out of it? is this taper cheaper than the taper of the mill?
When I worked at a welding and machine shop, the drill there had a quick release that used a tool that looks like a sickle. I don't know how it impacted the tolerances.
I got some friends parents who still work at Diamond tool and die. a little digging says the made it from the 70s-90s and then sold it on before 2000.
Thats neat! Very similar idea to the quick change on impact drivers these days it seems?
i would love a bridge port like you have , but it wouldn’t fit in the work shop, (quivering lower lip).
Is there a link to the cap head counter sink bits. Thanks!
For drilling we mostly use Morse System here in Sweden 🇸🇪
In my country we chamfer before taping not after tapping, interesting, never saw it like this before.
I have a suspicion that Adam’s next workshop will have a space reserved for a CNC mill.
Yeah, that whole operation would've taken about a minute on a CNC mill (not counting the CAD time of course). Can't wait to get my VMC back together and start actually making some cool stuff!
reminded me of the quick change mandrills that Bosh make for hole saws...
If you spot drill deep enough you can nix the countersink after. Unless you are talking about the chamfer on the back side.
Merry Christmas Adam!!