Great video. I had heard other customers saying that this product wasn't very effective until they moved it 6' or more away from the electrical ground connection for their house. This is not in any of the documentation, but once it's moved further from the ground, it is much more effective. I noticed yours was within a few feet of your ground. Maybe moving the unit further away from the ground connection will help!
@@crapsuzette1 The electrical ground from the panel is a subpanel which goes outside about 30 feet away to a ground rod. There is no electrical grounds attached to the plumbing in the house. The unit is attached to the feed coming in out of the floor which is roughly 6 feet from the ground wire that comes out of the sub panel.
@@crapsuzette1 the clamp on there are ground leads from emi shielding only. The copper pipe from earth is separated with plastic cpvc so no grounds upstream are attached either. There is no ac electrical oscillation on the main water pipe. There used to be until a few years ago when I reconfigured all that both for that install and to remove the double ground potentials.
I changed my anode rod about 4 years ago. The old one was pretty much used up. I could not drain my tank 100% due to sediment clogging up the cheap plastic gate valve. I had a brass ball valve ready to go, but didn't want to deal with all that water flowing out onto the floor. I was able to chip away quite a bit of build-up on the top heating element. The water seemed hotter after that. The water heater is now 18 years old, so who knows. I may take another run at changing out the anode and valve. I've got a bore scope, so inspecting the tank should be easier this time around. ~ THANK YOU for informing/reminding people about the need for anode maintenance. ~ Professional Home Owners, Unite! 😜
Almost twenty years ago we moved from a lake water area to a town that uses town wheal water that has hard water. Unaware of its effect and the need of water softener in the area after first year our dishwasher completely clogged up and broken down while the pipes began to clog up with scale build up all over the kitchen, washrooms toilets and faucets. I did some research regarding water softener and ended up using a electronic water descaler. The heavy scales in the washroom, faucets, inside the toilet tank and the buildup in the toilet bowls dramatically decreased after the initial clean up right after the installation after six months; however, I was still wondering how well it really worked throughout the entire house since we no longer have a dishwasher to show the difference. An year after the installation, our rental hot water heater tank broke down and I was wondering if it was caused by the hard water buildup and the electronic water descaler may not be enough to do the job; however, when the maintance person showed up and pull out the heating rod and it was perfectly clean without any trace of scale and the hot water tank was simply just broken down. The maintenance person was baffled since we did not have a water softener installed and had never heard of a electronic water descaler in his 30 years in the hot water tank business in our area. Least to say beside the minor wipe down and light regular scrub we no longer have any major hard water scale build up issue throughout the house since we installed the first unit and it actually slowly descaled all the scales in the water pipe throughout the entire house with an yearly electricity cost of about $7.00 drawing 5W/h only to operate it. five years later, I added a second unit onto the out going hot water pipe leaving from the hot water tank to add additional descale performance and have both units plugged into a backup battery unit as a safety measure and both are still running well to this day.
I got one a month ago. At first my water ppm went up which makes sense as build up is coming off but after a few weeks my poms went ppm. The water doesn't dry me out like it was before. I have bad eczema and it's helping. Soft water is way better but for the price I'll take the noticable improvement. In addition I added filters on the shower heads and the combo is good
We installed a Yarna CWD30 right after we closed on our new construction home. We have a Navien NPE-240A2 tankless water heater and flushed the heat exchanger & cleaned the filters today. To our surprise, there were no sediment at all on the filters & in the vinegar solution. Furthermore, there's no major build up around our shower heads or glass door. I really do think it works.
You should check your water heater ventilation. Those red and blue caps, and discoloration shows that the heat and carbon monoxide is not properly vented and is entering the area. Very dangerous.
It’s just because my vent tube is at a slightly lower angle than normal. It’s just a little excess heat. It has not changed since that tank was installed many years ago. I also have a carbon monoxide detector right next to it and it’s never went off.
@@GrowingAnswers most carbon monoxide detectors on the market are useless as they take 70 ppm to alarm. If you had 60 ppm which is enough to cause long term effects it would never go off. If your Carbon Monoxide detector isn't a low level detector (not sold at any big box store) you're not really protected.
My results were absolutely NOT the same. I disposed of my old salt system and installed the Yarna system. Hugh mistake! 5 months later I used test strip and my water went from soft to extremely hard on 3 separate weeks and now my facets are starting to leak. My biggest challenge yet is trying to contact Yarna for a refund.
@@bam3464 it’s not a water softener. It doesn’t remove anything. I’m not sure what you mean by the same. Because I showed there was still scale. Build up on things. The most of what it does is reduce scale In the hot water tank.
Hi! I have a youtube channel about hydroponic. I come from germany. I discovered you on youtube today. you are very personable and make great videos. greetings manuel
Hi dear sir. So where is this pipe scaling , corrosion and dirties. Where there are gone. In to our stomach. Sorry just it is interesting. Good luck and happiness
1:01 TDS is NOT a reliable measure of water hardness. There is no electronic gadget that can measure water hardness. You need a titration kit as you find in aquarium stores. Or maybe your water department has this information on their website for your area. TDS does not always correlate with hardness. It can register low when hardness is high or the other way. If you have that kind of scaling I'm pretty sure your water is close to 15gpg if not more. Whenever I hear an American mention hardness in ppm instead of gpg or grains per gallon I know they used a TDS meter.
Grains of hardness is primarily a water softner term ,ie. 17.1 ppm per grain of hardness. the best hardness , total hardness and calcium hardness tests kits are La Motte, Hach and Taylor. Strip tests give a close approximation but not like the liquid or powder titration test kits from the companies I listed. In Northern California , Nevada and areas with volcanic activity in the past Silica is a greater problem to deal with. Silica is extremely difficult to remove and the so called electronic scale devices do not have any affect on it. The device manufacturers are reluctant to ever mention it. There are basically two ways to remove silica scale , Hydroflouric acid and Sodium Hydroxide. Both are extremely hazardous and only should be attempted by trained persons. However if the silica scale is embedded with calcium carbonate a solution of 30% hydrochloride and 5 % Hydroflouric can break up the scale over a period of 8-12 hrs. depending on how recent the scale was deposited and how thick. Old thick scale will be like baked ceramic material the closer to the tube surface where the higher temperature will be found. In that case acid cleaning will most likely not be successful. Other methods on straight tubes are hydroblasting and the old AC guys raising the equipment temp. and shocking with ice, risky at best. I’m not going to tell you that the non chemical devices don’t work but suggest you look at some areas of concern. Such as devices that are actually regulated , does it have a UL listing ? May have one but that is for standard electronic and electrical components. Magnetic fields on PVC act differently than on copper, copper will create a secondary field like a transformer, pvc will not.
@@JW007100 thanks for your post. Is there a way to test for silicates? I do use titration kits for hardness testing and agree they're the best way. About living in an area with past volcanic activity, I'm in southern India. My city doesn't have underground parking because 50 ft under it's all granite. The deccan traps were all over the place and active millions of years ago. I'd imagine silicates would be prevalent. My water is river based and not very hard but other water sources have measured at 600 or more ppm total hardness.
@@JW007100 my interest in this subject stems from keeping front load washers in good shape. Hard water isn't good for them and if there's silicates like you said then I don't know how ypu prevent the internals from scaling up with silicate
@@johndoe-vc1we If where you are is not volcanic I doubt you have silica scale. Where I use to live not far away 1-2 hrs you would be in old lava fields, remnants of volcanic cones, over centuries the volcanic glass wears down and percolates down into the groundwater. Surface water like lakes had less silica present. You might contact your water provider to find out what the silica levels are if any at all. Rule of thumb is at 150 ppm and above silica can fall out( precipitate) and form silica SiO2 scale. The higher the concentration the quicker the deposits, works the same for Calcium Carbonate CaCo3. Silicon tiles are what are on heat shields for re- entry vehicles. If you have multiple machines try a non chemical device on it since you have others for comparison.
I expect it works slowly. But if you have super high mineral content I want to say above 20ppm and iron of like 3ppm or a pH < 7.0 They say it doesn't work. That is part of the reason why I wanted to try it, but there wasn't enough pipe to work with because of how they installed the furnace.
@@pbjealousy2348 Using cooling tower water directly inside water source heat pumps should be avoided at all costs. A plate frame heat exchanger is what should be utilized between cooling tower water and the heat pump water supply which would then be considered a closed loop system, which is far easier to keep treated with corrosion inhibitors sodium nitrate, molybdate and can include antifreeze as well in climates that require it. Cooling Tower water is dirty, towers typically get cleaned 1 x per year, have mud, sludge from chemical residue and if not maintained with chemicals can scale the entire heat pump system which can be catastrophic. Small scale non chemical devices are not designed for that situation. There are a couple non chemical systems that incorporate standard water treatment controller technology but what is not talked about is why do the they need to use the exact same conductivity/ bleed system? I have found that when the electronic coil system is unplugged but not the conductivity control system there is no change but when the conductivity bleed system fails and the magnetic coil system is on the entire condenser water system will fail, and scale develops throughout your cooling tower, piping system, if the water goes through the heat pumps(bad idea) all the heat pumps will scale and fail. Why did the system not fail when the magnetic field was off and why did it fail when the field was on and the conductivity control system was off. No literature or explanation is given and basically is white washed when a conductivity control system is utilized. Do not use Cooling Tower water directly inside a heat pump system, keep it separated by a heat exchanger. The vast majority of all hotels , some apartments use heat pump units for their heating and cooling. Those systems that do not have a heat exchanger interface risk catastrophic loss of their heat pumps and piping throughout the building. No electronic device or standard chemical treatment on an open heat pump system will prevent damage when the control system fails.
Especially not on any metal pipe of any kind (not via capacitance!). The problem with a lot of analysis is making the assumption that the water coming in is consistent throughout the year. Some get lucky or test when TDS is low (total dissolved solids), pH changes, ionic concentration changes, etc. Others claim the opposite. While it is true, you need to run thousands of gallons through the system (could take a year or more, depending on usage), this is not a good test. A better test is to split the incoming water supply - one with and one without - run the same amount of water through both and into filter media, recording sensors (of different types like a pulsed amperometric detector, flow sensors, etc). Recombining the lines, post sensor (and adjusting for any flow differences) to keep the total volume near identical, is a must - this eliminates the effect of changing incoming water. I challenge the manufacture to do this real world test before making any claims at all.
@@docdaven It doesn't change the TDS at all. It temporarily transforms the calcium from essentially one isomer to another. From the two research papers I read about a year ago. (if I could find the reference I would post it for you.) IIRC (and I may not) it is calcitite that sticks to the plumbing, this in theory, temporarily turns it into a different crystal structure. It was like two calcitite molecules bond together to form something else. So instead of forming a spiked crystal, it turns is more like a platelet, which doesn't stick, and it also doesn't trap iron, or magnesium molecules) Second, it don't think it works how you are thinking it works. I don't think it is working as an inductor coil, in which what you say what be correct. I could be wrong, but I suspect this works more like a capacitive radio antenna, and it just varies the frequency over a specific (fairly broad) range. You would have to put it on a scope to find out. I don't have one. And I am interested in whether the flat coils are a better radio antenna then just a round wire. Does it work? I don't know. From everything I have read, and seen. I think it does have some effect in specific circumstances. If you have high iron content, supposedly you need to remove that first, but I don't know that as a fact either, and I haven't seen anything besides a few posts on a plumbers site saying that, which could be them protecting their business as well.
@@sharonrose9552 I understand this theory, however, the claim that it's electrostatic can't be true. Think Faraday cage. Any electric field generated is completely shielded by the copper pipe. This applies to capacitive effect: unless there is an electrode INSIDE the pipe, it simply won't work. (you need a break with a non-conductive section). On the magnetic end, an inductor will induce eddy currents into the copper pipe (as is expected), but those currents are on the outside only. Some magnetic field will get through, however, but not enough to have a significant effect (not at that tiny power level) - except heating that section of the pipe. If you wish to effect ions in solution with electricity, you need an electric field (can't do this by wrapping anything around a metal pipe that shields it 100%!). TDS WILL most certainly have an effect on water properties.
@@docdaven The electric travels on the exterior surface of the copper. The INSIDE of the copper pipe is an exterior surface. It isn't solid wire like you would use with a faraday cage. If you have a copper foil, and apply a charge does it matter which side you connect to complete the circuit? For the capacitive effective to work, you do need a conductor on the inside. Mineralized water is an excellent conductor but a higher resistance then copper, which is a capacitive effect. It very well could have a resonant effect because the copper is retransmitting the signal to the water. In fact it may work better with copper pipe because it can retransmit through the whole length of the pipe. Solder has less resistivity then water. Because electric also -spreads- equally in any direction of the water flow is irrelevant. In order to reach the lowest potential, which is earth ground. in my case it has to go through the water back to the well because it is pvc pipe from the well to the house. To disassociate atoms from molecules, you don't need an electromagnetic field. You can create hydrogen and oxygen from water with a dc power source, and pretty much all electroplating is done with dc power sources as well. you need the pulsing to get the electromagnetic field which dc doesn't do. and maybe you are right, it is the electric ionization that makes it work, and not the resonate frequency. by pulsing and letting it discharge, you would get some molecular agitation.
that's 17 grains of hardness- 3 grains would be pretty bad- you have SH** for water dude. then again- tds isn't a measure of hardness, so... get a REAL test done.
![3 Best Salt-Free Water Softener System In 2024 [Proven Results!]](/img/1.gif)
In addition to this video, I added some more info in the description about this product that might be helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I had heard other customers saying that this product wasn't very effective until they moved it 6' or more away from the electrical ground connection for their house. This is not in any of the documentation, but once it's moved further from the ground, it is much more effective. I noticed yours was within a few feet of your ground. Maybe moving the unit further away from the ground connection will help!
@@crapsuzette1 The electrical ground from the panel is a subpanel which goes outside about 30 feet away to a ground rod. There is no electrical grounds attached to the plumbing in the house. The unit is attached to the feed coming in out of the floor which is roughly 6 feet from the ground wire that comes out of the sub panel.
@@GrowingAnswers My mistake. At 00:15, the clamp on the water pipe and wire running from it look very much like a ground.
@@crapsuzette1 the clamp on there are ground leads from emi shielding only. The copper pipe from earth is separated with plastic cpvc so no grounds upstream are attached either. There is no ac electrical oscillation on the main water pipe. There used to be until a few years ago when I reconfigured all that both for that install and to remove the double ground potentials.
Those water heater pics before and after are money, thanks for sharing.
I changed my anode rod about 4 years ago. The old one was pretty much used up.
I could not drain my tank 100% due to sediment clogging up the cheap plastic gate valve. I had a brass ball valve ready to go, but didn't want to deal with all that water flowing out onto the floor. I was able to chip away quite a bit of build-up on the top heating element. The water seemed hotter after that. The water heater is now 18 years old, so who knows. I may take another run at changing out the anode and valve.
I've got a bore scope, so inspecting the tank should be easier this time around.
~ THANK YOU for informing/reminding people about the need for anode maintenance. ~
Professional Home Owners, Unite! 😜
Almost twenty years ago we moved from a lake water area to a town that uses town wheal water that has hard water. Unaware of its effect and the need of water softener in the area after first year our dishwasher completely clogged up and broken down while the pipes began to clog up with scale build up all over the kitchen, washrooms toilets and faucets. I did some research regarding water softener and ended up using a electronic water descaler. The heavy scales in the washroom, faucets, inside the toilet tank and the buildup in the toilet bowls dramatically decreased after the initial clean up right after the installation after six months; however, I was still wondering how well it really worked throughout the entire house since we no longer have a dishwasher to show the difference. An year after the installation, our rental hot water heater tank broke down and I was wondering if it was caused by the hard water buildup and the electronic water descaler may not be enough to do the job; however, when the maintance person showed up and pull out the heating rod and it was perfectly clean without any trace of scale and the hot water tank was simply just broken down. The maintenance person was baffled since we did not have a water softener installed and had never heard of a electronic water descaler in his 30 years in the hot water tank business in our area. Least to say beside the minor wipe down and light regular scrub we no longer have any major hard water scale build up issue throughout the house since we installed the first unit and it actually slowly descaled all the scales in the water pipe throughout the entire house with an yearly electricity cost of about $7.00 drawing 5W/h only to operate it. five years later, I added a second unit onto the out going hot water pipe leaving from the hot water tank to add additional descale performance and have both units plugged into a backup battery unit as a safety measure and both are still running well to this day.
I got one a month ago. At first my water ppm went up which makes sense as build up is coming off but after a few weeks my poms went ppm. The water doesn't dry me out like it was before. I have bad eczema and it's helping. Soft water is way better but for the price I'll take the noticable improvement. In addition I added filters on the shower heads and the combo is good
We installed a Yarna CWD30 right after we closed on our new construction home. We have a Navien NPE-240A2 tankless water heater and flushed the heat exchanger & cleaned the filters today. To our surprise, there were no sediment at all on the filters & in the vinegar solution. Furthermore, there's no major build up around our shower heads or glass door. I really do think it works.
Nice opinion piece, and very interesting effects on the water heater. Thanks for your video!
You should check your water heater ventilation. Those red and blue caps, and discoloration shows that the heat and carbon monoxide is not properly vented and is entering the area. Very dangerous.
It’s just because my vent tube is at a slightly lower angle than normal. It’s just a little excess heat. It has not changed since that tank was installed many years ago. I also have a carbon monoxide detector right next to it and it’s never went off.
@@GrowingAnswers most carbon monoxide detectors on the market are useless as they take 70 ppm to alarm. If you had 60 ppm which is enough to cause long term effects it would never go off. If your Carbon Monoxide detector isn't a low level detector (not sold at any big box store) you're not really protected.
I agree. You have a dangerous setup like the other person noted
My results were absolutely NOT the same. I disposed of my old salt system and installed the Yarna system. Hugh mistake! 5 months later I used test strip and my water went from soft to extremely hard on 3 separate weeks and now my facets are starting to leak. My biggest challenge yet is trying to contact Yarna for a refund.
@@bam3464 it’s not a water softener. It doesn’t remove anything. I’m not sure what you mean by the same. Because I showed there was still scale. Build up on things. The most of what it does is reduce scale In the hot water tank.
Would you say, this will help with mineral buildup inside a tankless water heater also?
Yes.
Hi! I have a youtube channel about hydroponic. I come from germany. I discovered you on youtube today. you are very personable and make great videos. greetings manuel
Do you feel any difference to your hair and skin after shower with this descaler?
Not really. My whole house carbon filter helped with that to begin with.
NOT at all. Worse!
Hi dear sir. So where is this pipe scaling , corrosion and dirties. Where there are gone. In to our stomach. Sorry just it is interesting. Good luck and happiness
1:01 TDS is NOT a reliable measure of water hardness. There is no electronic gadget that can measure water hardness. You need a titration kit as you find in aquarium stores. Or maybe your water department has this information on their website for your area. TDS does not always correlate with hardness. It can register low when hardness is high or the other way. If you have that kind of scaling I'm pretty sure your water is close to 15gpg if not more. Whenever I hear an American mention hardness in ppm instead of gpg or grains per gallon I know they used a TDS meter.
Grains of hardness is primarily a water softner term ,ie. 17.1 ppm per grain of hardness. the best hardness , total hardness and calcium hardness tests kits are La Motte, Hach and Taylor. Strip tests give a close approximation but not like the liquid or powder titration test kits from the companies I listed. In Northern California , Nevada and areas with volcanic activity in the past Silica is a greater problem to deal with. Silica is extremely difficult to remove and the so called electronic scale devices do not have any affect on it. The device manufacturers are reluctant to ever mention it. There are basically two ways to remove silica scale , Hydroflouric acid and Sodium Hydroxide. Both are extremely hazardous and only should be attempted by trained persons. However if the silica scale is embedded with calcium carbonate a solution of 30% hydrochloride and 5 % Hydroflouric can break up the scale over a period of 8-12 hrs. depending on how recent the scale was deposited and how thick. Old thick scale will be like baked ceramic material the closer to the tube surface where the higher temperature will be found. In that case acid cleaning will most likely not be successful. Other methods on straight tubes are hydroblasting and the old AC guys raising the equipment temp. and shocking with ice, risky at best. I’m not going to tell you that the non chemical devices don’t work but suggest you look at some areas of concern. Such as devices that are actually regulated , does it have a UL listing ? May have one but that is for standard electronic and electrical components. Magnetic fields on PVC act differently than on copper, copper will create a secondary field like a transformer, pvc will not.
@@JW007100 thanks for your post. Is there a way to test for silicates? I do use titration kits for hardness testing and agree they're the best way. About living in an area with past volcanic activity, I'm in southern India. My city doesn't have underground parking because 50 ft under it's all granite. The deccan traps were all over the place and active millions of years ago. I'd imagine silicates would be prevalent. My water is river based and not very hard but other water sources have measured at 600 or more ppm total hardness.
@@JW007100 my interest in this subject stems from keeping front load washers in good shape. Hard water isn't good for them and if there's silicates like you said then I don't know how ypu prevent the internals from scaling up with silicate
@@JW007100 i don't believe ths device can prevent scale formation. Its snakeoil bit still sells because people believe in it.
@@johndoe-vc1we If where you are is not volcanic I doubt you have silica scale. Where I use to live not far away 1-2 hrs you would be in old lava fields, remnants of volcanic cones, over centuries the volcanic glass wears down and percolates down into the groundwater. Surface water like lakes had less silica present. You might contact your water provider to find out what the silica levels are if any at all. Rule of thumb is at 150 ppm and above silica can fall out( precipitate) and form silica SiO2 scale. The higher the concentration the quicker the deposits, works the same for Calcium Carbonate CaCo3. Silicon tiles are what are on heat shields for re- entry vehicles. If you have multiple machines try a non chemical device on it since you have others for comparison.
Great info!
Does anyone know if this can work on an open loop cooling tower system for water source heat pumps?
I expect it works slowly. But if you have super high mineral content I want to say above 20ppm and iron of like 3ppm or a pH < 7.0 They say it doesn't work. That is part of the reason why I wanted to try it, but there wasn't enough pipe to work with because of how they installed the furnace.
@@pbjealousy2348 Using cooling tower water directly inside water source heat pumps should be avoided at all costs. A plate frame heat exchanger is what should be utilized between cooling tower water and the heat pump water supply which would then be considered a closed loop system, which is far easier to keep treated with corrosion inhibitors sodium nitrate, molybdate and can include antifreeze as well in climates that require it.
Cooling Tower water is dirty, towers typically get cleaned 1 x per year, have mud, sludge from chemical residue and if not maintained with chemicals can scale the entire heat pump system which can be catastrophic. Small scale non chemical devices are not designed for that situation. There are a couple non chemical systems that incorporate standard water treatment controller technology but what is not talked about is why do the they need to use the exact same conductivity/ bleed system? I have found that when the electronic coil system is unplugged but not the conductivity control system there is no change but when the conductivity bleed system fails and the magnetic coil system is on the entire condenser water system will fail, and scale develops throughout your cooling tower, piping system, if the water goes through the heat pumps(bad idea) all the heat pumps will scale and fail. Why did the system not fail when the magnetic field was off and why did it fail when the field was on and the conductivity control system was off. No literature or explanation is given and basically is white washed when a conductivity control system is utilized. Do not use Cooling Tower water directly inside a heat pump system, keep it separated by a heat exchanger. The vast majority of all hotels , some apartments use heat pump units for their heating and cooling. Those systems that do not have a heat exchanger interface risk catastrophic loss of their heat pumps and piping throughout the building. No electronic device or standard chemical treatment on an open heat pump system will prevent damage when the control system fails.
Needs captions
Excellent video!!!!!
Having an actual water test done with the unit on and the unit off would be a less subjective way to compare if it’s working.
It wouldn’t do anything it doesn’t change the water chemistry or remove anything from the water.
there is no way in hell this is doing anything.
Yeah not really. Except for the hot water tank.
Especially not on any metal pipe of any kind (not via capacitance!). The problem with a lot of analysis is making the assumption that the water coming in is consistent throughout the year. Some get lucky or test when TDS is low (total dissolved solids), pH changes, ionic concentration changes, etc. Others claim the opposite. While it is true, you need to run thousands of gallons through the system (could take a year or more, depending on usage), this is not a good test.
A better test is to split the incoming water supply - one with and one without - run the same amount of water through both and into filter media, recording sensors (of different types like a pulsed amperometric detector, flow sensors, etc). Recombining the lines, post sensor (and adjusting for any flow differences) to keep the total volume near identical, is a must - this eliminates the effect of changing incoming water. I challenge the manufacture to do this real world test before making any claims at all.
@@docdaven It doesn't change the TDS at all. It temporarily transforms the calcium from essentially one isomer to another. From the two research papers I read about a year ago. (if I could find the reference I would post it for you.) IIRC (and I may not) it is calcitite that sticks to the plumbing, this in theory, temporarily turns it into a different crystal structure. It was like two calcitite molecules bond together to form something else. So instead of forming a spiked crystal, it turns is more like a platelet, which doesn't stick, and it also doesn't trap iron, or magnesium molecules)
Second, it don't think it works how you are thinking it works. I don't think it is working as an inductor coil, in which what you say what be correct. I could be wrong, but I suspect this works more like a capacitive radio antenna, and it just varies the frequency over a specific (fairly broad) range. You would have to put it on a scope to find out. I don't have one. And I am interested in whether the flat coils are a better radio antenna then just a round wire.
Does it work? I don't know. From everything I have read, and seen. I think it does have some effect in specific circumstances. If you have high iron content, supposedly you need to remove that first, but I don't know that as a fact either, and I haven't seen anything besides a few posts on a plumbers site saying that, which could be them protecting their business as well.
@@sharonrose9552 I understand this theory, however, the claim that it's electrostatic can't be true. Think Faraday cage. Any electric field generated is completely shielded by the copper pipe.
This applies to capacitive effect: unless there is an electrode INSIDE the pipe, it simply won't work. (you need a break with a non-conductive section).
On the magnetic end, an inductor will induce eddy currents into the copper pipe (as is expected), but those currents are on the outside only. Some magnetic field will get through, however, but not enough to have a significant effect (not at that tiny power level) - except heating that section of the pipe.
If you wish to effect ions in solution with electricity, you need an electric field (can't do this by wrapping anything around a metal pipe that shields it 100%!).
TDS WILL most certainly have an effect on water properties.
@@docdaven The electric travels on the exterior surface of the copper. The INSIDE of the copper pipe is an exterior surface. It isn't solid wire like you would use with a faraday cage. If you have a copper foil, and apply a charge does it matter which side you connect to complete the circuit?
For the capacitive effective to work, you do need a conductor on the inside. Mineralized water is an excellent conductor but a higher resistance then copper, which is a capacitive effect.
It very well could have a resonant effect because the copper is retransmitting the signal to the water. In fact it may work better with copper pipe because it can retransmit through the whole length of the pipe. Solder has less resistivity then water.
Because electric also -spreads- equally in any direction of the water flow is irrelevant.
In order to reach the lowest potential, which is earth ground. in my case it has to go through the water back to the well because it is pvc pipe from the well to the house.
To disassociate atoms from molecules, you don't need an electromagnetic field. You can create hydrogen and oxygen from water with a dc power source, and pretty much all electroplating is done with dc power sources as well. you need the pulsing to get the electromagnetic field which dc doesn't do.
and maybe you are right, it is the electric ionization that makes it work, and not the resonate frequency. by pulsing and letting it discharge, you would get some molecular agitation.
Coming from an electronics background, there is zero way this can work via capacitance on a copper pipe. Any claims that they can are patently false.
Extrapolate? Would it work on pex?
that's 17 grains of hardness- 3 grains would be pretty bad- you have SH** for water dude. then again- tds isn't a measure of hardness, so... get a REAL test done.