For the amount of thread cutting I do, HSS is fine. With the jig on my surface grinder I can get a really good grind too, so no problems with wonky profiles. (yes)
Nice work, as usual. I was concerned when you started talking about the cast hub as your reference for where the bored hole needed to be. I would not trust any casting, instead using the rim (where one's hands grip the wheel, ie, the functional element) as the reference to centralise and square to. I expect it all worked out fine anyway.
I'd agree about a cast feature not necessarily being reliable. The hole for the nut is square to the rim and evenly spaced in the hub. As it is a slow speed operation, I'm not overly concerned about the rim being exactly central to the axis of the nut - I think it will be good enough. Interestingly (and bearing out your concerns) when I put the machined nut with flange into the hole I'd bored, I discovered it was not sitting evenly. That is, the surface of the flange was not parallel to the plane of the rim.
As I think I've said in other videos, I don't like that technique, simply because it means you avoid something that takes a bit of practice to get right. As long as you can always thread that way, fine. But if you ever are in a situation where that won't work and because you have not practiced, you haven't the skills to thread 'conventionally'.
Brilliant Michael, another job you’ve done for me & yes! it’s going to be perfect. I have no doubt at all. And lovely video production too.
Strangely enough, once the thread was identified, the nut was relatively straight forward. Sometimes, it's all in the preparation.
great job!
Thanks.
a good job! i was glad to see you and i still use HSS ground tips for threading, i thought i was the only fool!(LOL) cheers ( Michael?)
For the amount of thread cutting I do, HSS is fine. With the jig on my surface grinder I can get a really good grind too, so no problems with wonky profiles.
(yes)
Nice work, as usual. I was concerned when you started talking about the cast hub as your reference for where the bored hole needed to be. I would not trust any casting, instead using the rim (where one's hands grip the wheel, ie, the functional element) as the reference to centralise and square to. I expect it all worked out fine anyway.
I'd agree about a cast feature not necessarily being reliable. The hole for the nut is square to the rim and evenly spaced in the hub. As it is a slow speed operation, I'm not overly concerned about the rim being exactly central to the axis of the nut - I think it will be good enough.
Interestingly (and bearing out your concerns) when I put the machined nut with flange into the hole I'd bored, I discovered it was not sitting evenly. That is, the surface of the flange was not parallel to the plane of the rim.
Hi, would it be a good idea to thread in reverse starting at the finish of the thread? that way you don't have to worry about where it ends.
Rich
As I think I've said in other videos, I don't like that technique, simply because it means you avoid something that takes a bit of practice to get right. As long as you can always thread that way, fine. But if you ever are in a situation where that won't work and because you have not practiced, you haven't the skills to thread 'conventionally'.