Hi Richard. About 10 years ago I saw the Castle Pocket hole machine and decided that I could MAKE one myself??? So 9 hours later, lots of 3/4" plywood and 2 routers, I had a working machine. I have added a few ideas along the way, but my machine is still working just fine after 10 years of pretty heavy use. It is accurate and quick cutting beautiful pocket holes. Great design!!!
I've had mine since they first came out... the huge plus you didn't mention is the lower screw angle which keeps the faces better aligned when screwing pieces together. The Castle screws are pretty much a must as a Kreg screw head is too large for the router slot... not a huge problem to get the Castle brand though.
Thanks for the video I just received mine today can’t wait to use it. I live in Hawaii and am very impressed wit’h the materials it’s made from should not rust here like other things do. I am constantly trying to keep my table saw top clear of rust. I even jut put a coating on it that’s supposed to worntime will tell
The Porter Cable 550 is a licensed version of 12. It retailed for 500.00 about 15 years ago. I have 2 that still work perfectly. I’ve replaced the routers inside at least twice over the years. Good to see Castle finally selling their own version.
Your right, Castle licensed the design to Porter Cable many years ago. When the agreement ended we started making them again as the TSM-11 and now the current model the TSM-12.
You’re one of the rare breed who reinvests in your business with quality tools. Soon you’ll have everything you need to do every job out there. And take it from me…you won’t be able to find any of them. Every time you look, you’ll find all of the other tools but not what you need until you need another tool for another job. Than you’ll find what you were looking for for the last job.
castle is king.. our mid-size, mid-grade furniture factory had the floor model that had pneumatic action and hold down clamps.. we ran porter cable routers , w/ HHS 1/8" jobber's for pilot & a two tooth carbide tip 3/8" strait flute . we ran every material imaginable across the castle. solid- oak,pine,ash,cherry,maple sheetstock- mostly 3/4" ply, MDF, HDF, PARTICLEBOARD, HPL(glued to substrate) & even ran some 1/2" baltic birch and some 3/8" merenti. it was a "bottleneck" machine at our place. it ran 8hrs a day, 5 or 6 days a week for 17yrs. i worked on that thing several times mainly due to over use or shitty cutter/drill bits. the castle machine was a soldier, in my book, ohh yeah. i did all the maintainance. im sure i wrenched on every machine there including forklifts, the building, computers and copy machine and several employees cars.... ohh and i kicked the soda & candy machine when it malfunctioned.. lol
I’ve used the Kreg pocket hole jigs for countless applications through the years for a fraction of the cost. And they do the exact same thing. I understand the tool geek mentality, and for shop applications a permanent station setup makes sense.
I don't know the brand but had a pnumatic pocket hole machine in woodshop in high school early late 90s/2000s. One press of the foot pedal brought down a clamping pad and bored/drilled the hole in one swoop.
One of the nice things about the castle is the shallow angle of the screw hole and pocket which makes it a bit harder to get your impact in there, but greatly reduces the amount of slip on your joint as you screw.
Richard, I'm an airline pilot, retiring soon. Can I borrow that so next flight I can walk into the cockpit like the effin BOSS? The stews will think I'm the man. Thanks.
I have had my Castle 110 for a little over a year and a half now. Can say enough about how so much easier it is to make connections without the wood trying to move like with the Kreg pockets. It is cleaner looking pocket, not rough around the edges like Kreg. Low screw angle can't be beat. You will love this as a portable pocket hole machine.
I use a Kreg pocket hole jig and hate when you get board walk. I assume the pre drilling prevents that. Wish the Kreg made a drill bit with a longer pilot drill bit to accomplish what the Castle pocket jigs do. The 110 looks like a very well built tool.
Neet idea. Back in the 80s where I worked the owner made a pocket making machine had the traditional bit inside a bit a fence with air powered work holding piston and all functioned with a foot pedal. Was really nice but apparently the bits cost quite allot and wore out regularly.
That green one is cool. But if I have to pick up a drill, I'm just using the Kreg. I think its easier to insert the screws on the Kreg holes too. If you have one, it would be fun to see the comparison between Kreg and Castle. Assuming neither is a sponsor.
I think I’d rather just carry the big one around. Having to carry around a separate bit and a dedicated drill to make the pilot hole seems like a deal breaker to me
Dang-it, I just bought bunch of merch from bunker branding. I should have waited a bit for this video to come out. I should have spent that on this mini castle!
What you want is to be able to put this on the edge of your bench so that its little table is on the same plane as the bench, I could imagine it just slotting into the side of your bench somehow to remain portable?
The TSM-12 is definitely the way to go for benchtop, worth the price difference. But I don't see much point in the 110. Frankly the new Kreg 520 and 720 both look better to me. You can drill a pilot hole as a second operation with any pocket jig. Just drill the pocket holes with the jig and then come back and finish the pilots with a normal bit. 4.5 mm works to give Kreg screws a tight slip fit (the Greg step bit is about 4mm in dia.) In fact doing the pilot holes all at once is more efficient and less tiring than having to pick up and put down the cordless drill for every hole. It's not the angle of the 15 degree pocket hole that causes creep. Most of it happens because the diameter of the pilot hole is not big enough and the pilot hole doesn't go all the way through. Try it yourself. Drill some pocket holes with your Kreg jig and then drill out the pilot all the way through with a 4.5mm bit. 5/32 is too small. 3/16 is too big but it will work. You'll find that creep is practically eliminated. You can use hand pressure to hold the pieces with little or no creep. If you clamp it you'll definitely get zero creep. I've been doing this for years whenever creep could absolutely not be permitted. Go try it yourself. We all know the principle. The same thing happens in any situation using screws where there is no pilot hole or where the screw threads are a larger diameter than the pilot hole. The workpiece wants to lift.
If there is a way to mount a couple of PACKOUT feet to the base of the tool you would be able to pull it out of the drawer and lock it onto your stack. No need to find a place to clamp it.
I am asuming that the drill hole guide is adjustable depending on the thickness of the material. Does it adjust on it's own, or do you have to adjust manually?
The drill guide is lined up with the middle of the router depth. You can clamp smaller or larger wood pieces and it’ll be the same pocket every time. If you really needed to have a deeper pocket for some reason you could adjust the drill guide and router hight as well!
Great video! Appreciate your enthusiasm and excitement about new tools. My wife doesn't get that about me 🤨. What are your thoughts of the Lamello Zeta P2? Any chances of a review of that tool? Keep up the great work!
Never seen these before (since I don't do any of that type of joinery work) but excellent explanation and video - I learned something new. I would have thought it would be nice to be able to clamp it down from behind (since the side clamp holes force you to be at the edge of a work surface). I understand that the pivoting router inside eliminates the possibility of a back clamping hole, but they could have moved the router a couple of inches forward, or provided a clamping flange that runs along the sides of the base. Clamping from behind I would think would give you more work table surface to access on your sides.
My initial reaction, which dates to the larger machine, is that there should be a single lever to close the toggle clamp and activate the router, in one continuous motion. I can see how that might be a bad idea if the clamp setting isn't perfect, but it also seems like it would be so much more efficient. Gotta dream?
I bought the one that Porta Cable was making before that was the exact same as that $1500 one, I don't see them anymore but I was for around $600 years back, burned up in the Glass fire of 2020, looking for a replacement, was looking at this unit until they raised their price $230 from $450 for no reason.
I couldn’t see, does it have pre drilled holes on the base so you can screw it down instead of needing to clamp it down? That would drastically change the ease of use and versatility of where you can use it
Just lay them on your work top and bring the machine to them since it’s so small. You can clamp it directly on the workpiece for more support on larger materials!
I noticed that as well. I imagine the tension in the joint at the face on the pocket side is greater that that on the opposite, and likely, the finished side. Finished side of the joint in thick material may tend to separate.
I almost hit the purchase button until I seen that the second operation of the pilot hole. No….I need more efficiency on the job site than that. Also, the job site needs to cater to cordless…..come on Castle!
I'm planning to get the drawers for my Packout. I'm wondering if the three drawer unit will hold my Dewalt drill and impact driver? I'm not sure whether I should get the two drawer unit or the three drawer. I am tired of unstacking boxes just to take a few things out for a smaller job. As far as the pocket hole machine I definitely do not do enough pocket holes to justify that cost so I'm sticking with my Kraig jig, I have the small cheap one and the larger more expensive one and they do a fine job if you take your time and do it right. Those are some really nice machines though.
I know nothing about carpentry so my question may be odd. On your pocket holes examples, the hole was in the center of the board. What if you had a thicker board (2x4) - would it still be in the middle of the board's edge? Is it supposed to be in the middle?
So 2 steps, on the expensive one, 2 steps on the cheaper smaller one... and 1 step on the kreg jig for a fraction of the price. Can you give us a demonstration how exactly this is better? or faster?
If they did it would have proprietary software and every time You unplugged it you would he to have an authorized John Deere repairman come out to reset it. And they would stop supporting it after a few years Andy tell you to buy a new one.
Castle allows for more shallow angle of cut unlike kreg like systems which some argue may contribute to better strength. One downside to castle is that you would need to use castle own type of screws for best results.
The type of screws that are recommended are panhead pocket screws(not washer heads). There are several vendors that sell panhead pocket screws even Kreg. Since the bottom of the pocket is rounded, the panheads crush the wood fibers on the sides of the pockets locking in the screws, just like setting a finish nail. Washer heads limit this compression and can give you a false sense of security in some cases. The biggest percent of mid to large size cabinet shop use panheads.
I had a Kreg K4 and hated the manual setup and the alignment issues. so I did the dumb thing without seeing what other machines were out there and bought a Kreg Foreman (Plastic model) and it is okay for what does but I do not like it and wish I would have purchased something better.
If I want to cover the drill holes, do they have plugs or jigs to make matching wood? There are times I can’t hide these hole such as fasten the last stair spindle.
He didn’t demonstrate but the clamp is adjustable height for variety of thicker or slimmer materials. The pocket depth and hole height are fixed to keep consistency but if you need an extra deep pocket you are able to adjust router bit and drill guide height too
An interesting tool I know space is everything when you are a traveling carpenter, but having to drill that second hole couldn't justify the space it saves. My opinion of course, I appreciate the review.
I am not a contractor and for the money on a rig that drills only one pocket plus a hole (2 separate operations) I will stick to my Kreg system and save the coin. For those that are tool geeks, I can see them buying one. I don’t have the clients to pay for all those tools.🙀
Does the Castle Model 110 have the capacity to do a whole wall panel molding project like the amazing one you did in the video you published Aug 21, 2020? I did a mirror wall in a workout room using the same technique as you. If this new unit can do it better, I would follow your recommendation and get one for the next project.
Hi Richard. About 10 years ago I saw the Castle Pocket hole machine and decided that I could MAKE one myself??? So 9 hours later, lots of 3/4" plywood and 2 routers, I had a working machine. I have added a few ideas along the way, but my machine is still working just fine after 10 years of pretty heavy use. It is accurate and quick cutting beautiful pocket holes. Great design!!!
I've got a Castle 110 and absolutely love it! It's honestly thanks to you. LOL. Thanks!
That machine is a game changer, been using it for like 7 years now best money I've ever spend
The way you were getting excited got me excited. And I’m in love with my Kreg 720. 🤙🏽😂
I've had mine since they first came out... the huge plus you didn't mention is the lower screw angle which keeps the faces better aligned when screwing pieces together. The Castle screws are pretty much a must as a Kreg screw head is too large for the router slot... not a huge problem to get the Castle brand though.
Thanks for the video I just received mine today can’t wait to use it. I live in Hawaii and am very impressed wit’h the materials it’s made from should not rust here like other things do. I am constantly trying to keep my table saw top clear of rust. I even jut put a coating on it that’s supposed to worntime will tell
Very cool tool. I used to work at a wood shop and we had some of the bigger castle ones and I loved them
The Porter Cable 550 is a licensed version of 12. It retailed for 500.00 about 15 years ago. I have 2 that still work perfectly. I’ve replaced the routers inside at least twice over the years. Good to see Castle finally selling their own version.
Your right, Castle licensed the design to Porter Cable many years ago. When the agreement ended we started making them again as the TSM-11 and now the current model the TSM-12.
@@castleusa5250 *you’re
@@castleusa5250 that’s some interesting background history.
Sure the tool is cool but the jobsite walk is the kind of quality content I've come to love from this channel! lol
You’re one of the rare breed who reinvests in your business with quality tools. Soon you’ll have everything you need to do every job out there. And take it from me…you won’t be able to find any of them. Every time you look, you’ll find all of the other tools but not what you need until you need another tool for another job. Than you’ll find what you were looking for for the last job.
This is a fact! Also, you'll eventually need bigger trailers, and bigger trucks, and a bigger shop
More like, he's one of the rare breed who has a RUclips channel, and gets free tools just for reviewing them.
@@brody6634, did you catch the part at 0:48 in the video where he says this is not a sponsored video?
There’s plenty of us out here spending money on tools. Why do you think they stay in business and continue to make new tools?
@@brody6634 He literally said thst this isn't sponsored and he bought both tools. Wtaf?
Been looking at these. Since you mentioned then when I can finally reinvest i will definitely do this
castle is king.. our mid-size, mid-grade furniture factory
had the floor model that had pneumatic action and hold down clamps.. we ran porter cable routers , w/ HHS 1/8" jobber's for pilot & a two tooth carbide tip 3/8" strait flute . we ran every material imaginable across the castle. solid- oak,pine,ash,cherry,maple sheetstock- mostly 3/4" ply, MDF, HDF, PARTICLEBOARD, HPL(glued to substrate) & even ran some 1/2" baltic birch and some 3/8" merenti. it was a "bottleneck" machine at our place. it ran 8hrs a day, 5 or 6 days a week for 17yrs. i worked on that thing several times mainly due to over use or shitty cutter/drill bits. the castle machine was a soldier, in my book, ohh yeah. i did all the maintainance. im sure i wrenched on every machine there including forklifts, the building, computers and copy machine and several employees cars.... ohh and i kicked the soda & candy machine when it malfunctioned.. lol
I’ve used the Kreg pocket hole jigs for countless applications through the years for a fraction of the cost. And they do the exact same thing. I understand the tool geek mentality, and for shop applications a permanent station setup makes sense.
Exactly, how hard is it to line of a standard pocket hole jig? On top of that he is still using the drill for the pilot hole???
I don't know the brand but had a pnumatic pocket hole machine in woodshop in high school early late 90s/2000s. One press of the foot pedal brought down a clamping pad and bored/drilled the hole in one swoop.
Good review. It makes you happy. Why? Nothing like having the right tool for the right job.
I found this unit when I priced out the John Deer. It’s definitely a level up from Kreg!! Great video
I’m like you. I love quality tools, and I am always looking out for new high-quality tools. Thanks for sharing.
Have had one for two years. Great tool
It also clamps on to bigger pieces that you can’t move to good. Just hang a edge off and clamp it. Great tool!
One of the nice things about the castle is the shallow angle of the screw hole and pocket which makes it a bit harder to get your impact in there, but greatly reduces the amount of slip on your joint as you screw.
Richard, I'm an airline pilot, retiring soon. Can I borrow that so next flight I can walk into the cockpit like the effin BOSS? The stews will think I'm the man. Thanks.
Nice machine. You may want to drop a clamp in the drawer as well, then you'll have everything you need to make excellent pockets.
Sweet tool. Great explanation on how it works!
I have had my Castle 110 for a little over a year and a half now. Can say enough about how so much easier it is to make connections without the wood trying to move like with the Kreg pockets. It is cleaner looking pocket, not rough around the edges like Kreg. Low screw angle can't be beat. You will love this as a portable pocket hole machine.
It’s so wonderful that you show us how things works.
I use a Kreg pocket hole jig and hate when you get board walk. I assume the pre drilling prevents that. Wish the Kreg made a drill bit with a longer pilot drill bit to accomplish what the Castle pocket jigs do. The 110 looks like a very well built tool.
The shallow 3° angle pocket that the castle router cuts also helps with the board walk compared to the typical 15° pockets with weaker joints
Neet idea. Back in the 80s where I worked the owner made a pocket making machine had the traditional bit inside a bit a fence with air powered work holding piston and all functioned with a foot pedal. Was really nice but apparently the bits cost quite allot and wore out regularly.
That green one is cool. But if I have to pick up a drill, I'm just using the Kreg. I think its easier to insert the screws on the Kreg holes too. If you have one, it would be fun to see the comparison between Kreg and Castle. Assuming neither is a sponsor.
We got the castle 12 green machine few months ago, and I love it. The old kreg we had before feels like a toy compared to it.
Stumpy Nubs channel has been singing praises of castle machines for years. I’m not a contractor, but I still want one.
Please set up a hidden camera for the reaction of the other team
You just justified my purchase!
I think I’d rather just carry the big one around. Having to carry around a separate bit and a dedicated drill to make the pilot hole seems like a deal breaker to me
You should put Porter Cable stickers an that one. 😂
Or KitchenAid.
KitchenAid for sure. haha!
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Dang-it, I just bought bunch of merch from bunker branding. I should have waited a bit for this video to come out. I should have spent that on this mini castle!
Absolutely no way you'll get me to give up my Foreman. Works great. Priced reasonably. Light as heck. Faster than anything out there.
I'm so excited for you when that fit in the pack out. And I'm not even a carpenter. 🤣
What you want is to be able to put this on the edge of your bench so that its little table is on the same plane as the bench, I could imagine it just slotting into the side of your bench somehow to remain portable?
This is exactly what you can do with it. If the work piece is large you can just take the pocket cutter to the material!
Great machine! How well do the plugs work to hide the pocket hole ?
I didn't know that I needed one . Thanks:)
The TSM-12 is definitely the way to go for benchtop, worth the price difference. But I don't see much point in the 110. Frankly the new Kreg 520 and 720 both look better to me. You can drill a pilot hole as a second operation with any pocket jig. Just drill the pocket holes with the jig and then come back and finish the pilots with a normal bit. 4.5 mm works to give Kreg screws a tight slip fit (the Greg step bit is about 4mm in dia.) In fact doing the pilot holes all at once is more efficient and less tiring than having to pick up and put down the cordless drill for every hole.
It's not the angle of the 15 degree pocket hole that causes creep. Most of it happens because the diameter of the pilot hole is not big enough and the pilot hole doesn't go all the way through. Try it yourself. Drill some pocket holes with your Kreg jig and then drill out the pilot all the way through with a 4.5mm bit. 5/32 is too small. 3/16 is too big but it will work. You'll find that creep is practically eliminated. You can use hand pressure to hold the pieces with little or no creep. If you clamp it you'll definitely get zero creep. I've been doing this for years whenever creep could absolutely not be permitted. Go try it yourself.
We all know the principle. The same thing happens in any situation using screws where there is no pilot hole or where the screw threads are a larger diameter than the pilot hole. The workpiece wants to lift.
As always good and helpful explanations and a great video **
Always thought it was my technique screwing in pocket screws that lead to the pieces pulling out of alignment. Now I need this tool. Lol
It's like when I got a Festool vacuum and two of their Sanders I was in heaven when it came to sanding especially sanding joint compound
Kregs does the exact same thing and you only need one bit?
If there is a way to mount a couple of PACKOUT feet to the base of the tool you would be able to pull it out of the drawer and lock it onto your stack. No need to find a place to clamp it.
Great content, thanks for sharing!
Now that you’ve had it awhile, how do you like it?
I like that. I would get a regular Packout case and set the machine in Kaizen foam along with the Milwaukee drill and accessories.
I've got on that runs off compressed air it's the easiest and fastest way to do po ket holes
I geek out on cool tools too.
Nice video, wondering why you don't like Kreg?
I am asuming that the drill hole guide is adjustable depending on the thickness of the material. Does it adjust on it's own, or do you have to adjust manually?
The drill guide is lined up with the middle of the router depth. You can clamp smaller or larger wood pieces and it’ll be the same pocket every time. If you really needed to have a deeper pocket for some reason you could adjust the drill guide and router hight as well!
They make a great floor model pocket cutter as well
Great video! Appreciate your enthusiasm and excitement about new tools. My wife doesn't get that about me 🤨. What are your thoughts of the Lamello Zeta P2? Any chances of a review of that tool? Keep up the great work!
Never seen these before (since I don't do any of that type of joinery work) but excellent explanation and video - I learned something new.
I would have thought it would be nice to be able to clamp it down from behind (since the side clamp holes force you to be at the edge of a work surface). I understand that the pivoting router inside eliminates the possibility of a back clamping hole, but they could have moved the router a couple of inches forward, or provided a clamping flange that runs along the sides of the base. Clamping from behind I would think would give you more work table surface to access on your sides.
It’s so portable you can actually clamp it to the work piece itself as if you were clamping it to the edge of your desk.
My initial reaction, which dates to the larger machine, is that there should be a single lever to close the toggle clamp and activate the router, in one continuous motion. I can see how that might be a bad idea if the clamp setting isn't perfect, but it also seems like it would be so much more efficient. Gotta dream?
Great video! Loved the John Deere version! BTW, where did you get the larger DeWaukee sign/sticker. The largest I could find as 14 x 5 in.
I don’t know what I liked more, the tool that cuts pocket holes or the tool that cuts jokes? 🤣🤣🤣
I bought the one that Porta Cable was making before that was the exact same as that $1500 one, I don't see them anymore but I was for around $600 years back, burned up in the Glass fire of 2020, looking for a replacement, was looking at this unit until they raised their price $230 from $450 for no reason.
I couldn’t see, does it have pre drilled holes on the base so you can screw it down instead of needing to clamp it down? That would drastically change the ease of use and versatility of where you can use it
Yes it has a few holes to mount. With larger materials you can also clamp the pocket cutter itself to the wood for even more stability
Also the machine will fit to the edge if you need to pocket hole along a long side say 8 foot
You’re going to need a couple of mini risers that are set at the height of the deck of that. That way you can support the 12+ feet boards you use.
Just lay them on your work top and bring the machine to them since it’s so small. You can clamp it directly on the workpiece for more support on larger materials!
It appeared that the pilot hole was in a fixed point. It worked great for the 3/4" material. How does it work with 2x material?
I noticed that as well. I imagine the tension in the joint at the face on the pocket side is greater that that on the opposite, and likely, the finished side. Finished side of the joint in thick material may tend to separate.
"This is what we get inside this kit" Richard busting out the rhyms
Great video as always.
I almost hit the purchase button until I seen that the second operation of the pilot hole. No….I need more efficiency on the job site than that. Also, the job site needs to cater to cordless…..come on Castle!
Ok, it makes beautiful pocket holes. Since when are you putting pocket holes where they can be seen?
I'm planning to get the drawers for my Packout. I'm wondering if the three drawer unit will hold my Dewalt drill and impact driver? I'm not sure whether I should get the two drawer unit or the three drawer. I am tired of unstacking boxes just to take a few things out for a smaller job.
As far as the pocket hole machine I definitely do not do enough pocket holes to justify that cost so I'm sticking with my Kraig jig, I have the small cheap one and the larger more expensive one and they do a fine job if you take your time and do it right. Those are some really nice machines though.
Milwaukee and DEWALT seem to love your channel. It’s a wonder if they’ll ask you to do a giveaway for the holidays.
I know nothing about carpentry so my question may be odd. On your pocket holes examples, the hole was in the center of the board. What if you had a thicker board (2x4) - would it still be in the middle of the board's edge? Is it supposed to be in the middle?
I’m jealous. I would love a shop/garage like that. tools and space and clean. 😏
So 2 steps, on the expensive one, 2 steps on the cheaper smaller one... and 1 step on the kreg jig for a fraction of the price. Can you give us a demonstration how exactly this is better? or faster?
Richard, you should out for their $59,000 machine that also sets the screws!!!
At the start of the video I was thinking "Wow, who would have thought JD makes woodworking tools". Nice one 😆😂
If they did it would have proprietary software and every time
You unplugged it you would he to have an authorized John Deere repairman come out to reset it. And they would stop supporting it after a few years Andy tell you to buy a new one.
@@risunokairu sounds more like Apple to me
i dont the radious the first router makes it makes it so the screw doesn't get as much contact i honestly think the kreg is a better option
Where are the Dewaukita shirts?
Castle allows for more shallow angle of cut unlike kreg like systems which some argue may contribute to better strength. One downside to castle is that you would need to use castle own type of screws for best results.
The type of screws that are recommended are panhead pocket screws(not washer heads). There are several vendors that sell panhead pocket screws even Kreg. Since the bottom of the pocket is rounded, the panheads crush the wood fibers on the sides of the pockets locking in the screws, just like setting a finish nail. Washer heads limit this compression and can give you a false sense of security in some cases. The biggest percent of mid to large size cabinet shop use panheads.
Wow Castle even watches this channel 😅 that's how you know you doing something right 🤘🏼💙
DeWaukita hoodie or zip up. Need more please
I'm there with you Richard, love buying tools 😂
Not meaning to sound dumb, but what do you use pocket holes in for carpentry? I know it’s used a lot in cabinetry but I’m trying to think what else.
I had a Kreg K4 and hated the manual setup and the alignment issues. so I did the dumb thing without seeing what other machines were out there and bought a Kreg Foreman (Plastic model) and it is okay for what does but I do not like it and wish I would have purchased something better.
…tool freak here also…I want one!…looking for something to use on now!….COOOOOL!…thx!…
What didn't you like about the porter cable one?
How good would this be with a battery instead of a lead!! C’mon Makita 💪🏼
If I want to cover the drill holes, do they have plugs or jigs to make matching wood? There are times I can’t hide these hole such as fasten the last stair spindle.
Yes castle sells matching plugs in a variety of colors too!
I really wish I could justify these machines, but i'm a simply hobbyist, so I'm stuck with Kregg.
The drill guide in the back appears to be fixed, so how does it adapt to different sized materials?
He didn’t demonstrate but the clamp is adjustable height for variety of thicker or slimmer materials. The pocket depth and hole height are fixed to keep consistency but if you need an extra deep pocket you are able to adjust router bit and drill guide height too
I want one of your hoodies. Where can I get one?
Have you ordered the John Deere logos for the new machine ?
An interesting tool I know space is everything when you are a traveling carpenter, but having to drill that second hole couldn't justify the space it saves. My opinion of course, I appreciate the review.
Totally agree
"Well then why don't you marry it." 😁 Yeah, I get it. I always enjoyed a new tool that worked well and would save me time.
The Castle is also a very funny comedy from Australia. 🇦🇺 Watch it and tell me I’m wrong. 😬
So... how expensive is this nice tool?
So John Deere is not farming gear?
Cool.
I’m awaiting the new CAT mitersaws and lathes!
I am not a contractor and for the money on a rig that drills only one pocket plus a hole (2 separate operations) I will stick to my Kreg system and save the coin. For those that are tool geeks, I can see them buying one. I don’t have the clients to pay for all those tools.🙀
I have one and it’s great!
Can you use it on 2x4s?
Does the Castle Model 110 have the capacity to do a whole wall panel molding project like the amazing one you did in the video you published Aug 21, 2020?
I did a mirror wall in a workout room using the same technique as you. If this new unit can do it better, I would follow your recommendation and get one for the next project.
Why is this better than the kreg? Cleaner hole?
Kregg jig pocket hole with a drill crew checking in