I leave the handbrake off ALL THE TIME in the garage .... best tip though.... also just keep her rolling ... and just move her occasionally plus a little heat in there to just keep her warm 😜 or maybe a little cuddle now and again .... the wife might get jealous though 😜
Totally agree. Cars like being used. One tip though - invest in a dehumidifier for the garage. That way if you do have to put the car away wet it will soon dry out. You will find that discs stay rust-free and the whole car stays dry. I bought one several years ago, best 100 quid I ever spent.
Good idea and if you have to store your vehicle outside get a few of these "Dry Z Air" (or similar) and empty them every week or so. Much easier than trying to clean mould off the entire interior in the Spring. Also don't spill the condensation on leather while you are emptying the Dry Z Air its like salt water and will dry out the leather.
I used to manage my Lotus over winter. I only took it out on dry days on salt free roads. Always got the engine up to full temperature. Never had any issues.
Lots of good tips, but here in Canada it gets very cold and lots of snow during the winter, so antiques get stored usually from October until April or May. I have two Alfa's from the 1960's, one Spider and one Coupe, owned both of them for 50 years. So this is what I do for winter storage. Take each for a good long drive, 10 to 15 km on the highway, that way there is no condensation left in the exhaust or engine, oil is at full operating temp. Change oil and filter, fill fuel tanks , premium fuel only, no ethanol, add stabilizer to tanks. Take out spark plugs, using oil can squirt a bit of oil into each cylinder, leave the plugs out, they more or less cover the spark plug holes, crank engine over to distribute oil (20w50) over cylinder walls and piston rings. Disconnect battery, both have a quick disconnect. NEVER start engine in winter, cold starts create most of the wear and leave a lot of condensation in the exhaust causing premature rot !!! Make sure tires are fully inflated to avoid flat spotting. Leave for the winter, charge batteries once a month. In spring, check all fluids, Connect batteries, crank engine over until oil pressure shows on gauge, install spark plugs, turn on booster pump ( added later, not factory) to fill carburettors ( Weber DCOE's), start engine, let warm up for 5 minutes and go for spin. Big grin on my face again. !!
As someone who has worked in the classic car restoration trade for over 43 years , I would never advocate starting your car and moving it up and down the drive or 100 yards down your street ! The worst thing you can do to an engine, is start it up and let it idle to warm up, then pop up and down your drive. Yes, without doubt cars are better used, but not everyone wants their car on salty dirty roads over winter. If you can not drive your car for at least 5 to 6 miles minimum, the more miles the better, then store it correctly. Old engines need to get thoroughly hot, if left on idle or just shunted up and down the fuel/air mixture is rich, which actually strips oil away from the bores and pistons and short runs can also create condensation and leave harmful chemical deposits in the engine. My advice, if you don't want your car on winter roads take the weight off to prevent tyre flats more so if it's a large heavy car, leave the brake off and connect the battery to a conditioner Ctek are good. A good dehumidifier is a great investment and helps keep the car in a dry environment. Also check your antifreeze and place a fuel stabiliser in the fuel.
Put it away dry and it'll be fine for 4 months over winter. Disconnect the battery. Don't start it just for a hundred yards, that'll rot the exhaust and not good for engine. Better rolling the car about by pushing it.
5 or 6 miles?😲 Forget it, 20 miles for a start, every week, whether you want to or not but hose it down properly underneath if the roads have been gritted, that salt is a swine. You need 20 miles minimum to evaporate all condensation and stir all the oils and coolant properly all through, and condition the exhaust, steering, brakes, suspension and probably other stuff that escapes me for the moment. Like aircon and heating. If you haven't got a 20 mile drive to do then make one up and take the long way back home.
As usual he is so right. I learned this the hard way. Lovely Stag in the garage all winter. Nice weather in the Spring so off we went in it from Cambridge to go and have fish and chips you know where in the Dales. We got as far as Doncaster where the brakes seized up. Cars are for use and not just looking at!
Absolutely sound advice from Derek as always. I’ve always changed the oil long before it needs it, as he says it’s only a bit of oil, a filter and nowadays a sump plug. Money well spent.
Also, don't forget your garage. Make sure it has good ventilation. I also put carpet on the floor. This helps to create a thermal barrier. A concrete floor as a minimum and if you can, ensure that it has a 'damp proof membrane'.
My humble experience of owning classic cars for a considerable amount of years is that the most important thing is a perfectly dry storage place. Start it you can every two months and drive it for about 5 miles if possible. Keep an eye out out for mice in the engine bay and close all windows to keep them out. Ideally a good airflow around the car helps. An old woolen bed cover is fine to cover it. Do not use plastic covers. Leave the handbrake off. Trickle charge battery every month or so. Any problems after winter storage just have to be dealt with as best as possible - its whats owning a classic car is about. Happy motoring!
My Alfa is always tucked away over winter. Has been the past 17 years, and always been OK touch wood. Put it away nice and clean, breathable cover on. I never apply the brakes, I chock the car with some blocks. I trickle charge the battery a couple of times a month with a CTEK charger (brilliant little thing). Still on its original exhaust (it's 22!), I did have all the brake components changed out a couple of years back (calipers were refurbished, everything else changed). Seems quite happy in its slumbers.
Here in Norway not much choice, I use silicon brake fluids, have heated flooring, with 40% humidity, ctek charge the battery, but disconnect it from the vehicle. I drain the fuel system now, after all the ethanol rubbish came along.
Agree 100%. The only time I left my old Land Rover parked up over the winter, it wouldn’t start again in the spring until I’d replaced just about the whole ignition. Now I drive around, or if the weather is bad start it up, for about 30 minutes every week. Also change the oil in the engine, gearbox and diffs every spring before I do drive more regularly. One bonus about old land rovers is that they leak oil from all over the place so the chassis is usually well protected. For the rest I use lanoguard, but of course other similar products are available. Plus as historic vehicles are tax exempt, there’s no reason to have them SORN anymore.
Every £1 spent on fuel in your old Rolls/Bentley saves you £2 in maintenance. Works for me. I wouldn't dream of parking mine up for the winter, I love it to bits and cherish every minute behind the wheel especially in a gloomy British winter when I need a lot of cheering up. But hose it off properly afterwards if the roads have been gritted, that salt is a killer.
All sound advice. I go through dozens of cans of WD40 especially over winter as I use it under the car and in the nooks and crannies as well as the engine bay. One useful tip I was given from the aircon engineer was to always keep the radiator and condenser clear of road salt in winter by washing with a hose and not a power washer and liberally spraying with WD 🫡
I’ve found silicone spray works a lot better than wd40 as wd seems to dry out quickly!! Silicone spray will protect all the rubbers and plastics both in the engine bay and underneath and it’s a dry lubricant so dirt doesn’t stick!
@ASI-l2w yep, I apply buckets of this especially under my Z4 coupe - the aerosol’s are pretty useless but applied by brush and pumped into enclosed spaces with a spray bottle and nozzle - good stuff 👍
Personally I store mine, but I have a bone dry garage. I leave the handbrake off and the battery disconnected. No problems of doing this for 20 years, but ethanol resistant fuel line is essential.
I have had issues with the mechanical fuel pump drying up and petrol sticking the ball bearing and spring non return valve so no fuel came through even when primed. Any start is better than no start but your exhaust will rot quickly if you dont go for a proper blast. Also get those brakes working nice an warm! And get some (lower ethanol) super unleaded (even if the car doesn't need it), use it up and refresh asap within a few months. I keep the tanks low to allow higher dilution of older petrol with new.
Bought a Citroen 2CV (rust being its biggest enemy) 6 months ago and just deciding on which make of fitted car cover to buy. I could fit it in my garage (after a clear out and new door) but favour outside storage for better air circulation. Thanks for this helpful video from Matthewsons (viewed 2 there last week) and I will follow the advice given.
My 2006 MR2 has always been cleaned inside & out (over & under) before being tucked-up in its own garage under a breathable cover by the end of October at the latest & doesn't come out until 1 April (occasionally in March if the weather is good). I do over-inflate the tyres by a few PSI when it is away for the winter. It is main dealer serviced every year, with the report video from the mechanic showing the all round (& under) as-new condition. When it is in its garage the battery is connected to a maintenance charger (which can be left connected when starting & idling over the winter). Every springtime I feel like I'm driving a brand-new car again. Apart from service items, the only new part required was a new battery (about 10 years ago) - still on the original brakes & exhaust. I have treated it with Lanoguard for the last 2 seasons. My wife's classic Mini gets the same treatment as the MR2, including the Lanoguard. My 2001 Defender lives outside &, not surprisingly, is used all year round but benefits from a galvanised chassis (& lots of Lanoguard).
I use my cars all year round, their combined age is something like 130 years. Regular use, washing drying, sometimes a jet wash underneath. Waxoil type, WD40 and a trickle of engine oil around and along all the seams and joints, oily rag. Have fun !
I couldn't agree more about underseal Derek,,,, back in the 60s 70s was incredibly popular yet all it did was see the cars in scrapyards ten years later... If folks did maintain the underseal by spraying the old engine oil on it would work as it would keep it porous... However second and third owners never did... So it goes hard and just traps the moisture behind it... fatal
What a lot of people don't realize is that even when the road is dry, if it has been gritted without it raining to wash it away you are still damaging your car. Crushed salt dust will be thrown up off the road by your tyres and land in all your nooks and crannies on the underside and wheel arches. It will just sit there until you either drive the car in the wet, or wash it. I have a 1991 Firebird of California spec, so it isn't undersealed. I've had the car 22 years and from Late September to Mid May it never touches the road until I'm 100% sure all the salt has been washed away. Even then, it never goes out in the wet. Kills me to see guys taking their pride and joys out on dry white roads in the winter knowing what they are collecting for future damage.
When you have it clean and dry and in the garage cotton dustsheets are great for keeping paint clean and free of contaminants. Buy them from a tool shop or paint supplies and they are very cheap. And take the battery out and put on a solar charger or battery tender, no acid in the car and that battery may last 15 years. And 10psi more air in the tyres will keep them round.
Take mine off the road in October. It’s thoroughly cleaned and waxed beforehand and stored uncovered in a dry garage. Start it once a week at least and get it to temp then move it up and down the drive to keep everything free and avoid flat spots on the tyres. Use a C-Tek battery charger over the winter which has been great. Service it in the spring and only take it out when it’s dry. Not had any issues so far.
@@BibTheBoulderTheOriginalOne Am retired so get a lot more opportunity than someone who’s working full time but I agree the summers have been pretty useless the last couple of years.
@@BibTheBoulderTheOriginalOne Planned to go to a few shows this year but a lot of them got rained off. Pistons & Props at Sywell is quite close to me and usually has some great cars. Could only go on the Sunday, forecast was heavy rain and strong wind so they cancelled the event. Mostly ended up doing local cars and coffee charity events. Still good to get out but not ventured far like I usually would. Hopefully next year is better but not holding my breath. Cheers.
Great video, although one thing,m dehumidify, even if drying the paint, underneath will be sodden, a small disel heater also works wonders as well as a drafty garage...
This, last winter i moved mine around while doing some work to it without letting everything warm up, when putting it back on the road this spring i noticed lots water coming out of the tail pipes and pin holes in one of the back boxes, obviously caused by condensation.
With any BLMC Transverse stuff chock the clutch plate open if your laying it up...( don't place a brick or heavy weight on the clutch peddle as it just puts strain on the clutch master/slave cylinder seals) there notorious for clutch plates rusting on in no time...
Old cars don't like being sat outside over winter, used or not. A big well ventilated garage is best, preferably with a bit of heating. Start the engine once every 2 months and let it run for 10-15 minutes. Use all the switches, lights, windows and wipers. Move it backwards and forwards to use the clutch and brakes. Use good antifreeze and some additive in the fuel. Don't put a cover over it - if you must, use a cotton sheet. Dust won't harm it, clean it off now and then with a leather. Leave a window open for ventilation. The other issue is paying £30 a month to tax it. Sod that.
The best thing is to continue to use it all year. I've had lots of classic cars , Rolls Royce, a few American cars and lots more.😊😊 I just use them in the dry. The worse thing 😊is to park it in the garage and not use it for 5 months 😊. A very good friend of mine has a ferrari 355 f1. He only uses it in the summer. He never even moves it in the winter 😊 😊 .Such a waste 😂😂 last winter all 4 tyres split because it hasn't been moved.😂 4 brand new tyres required. 😊
I’m a bit confused about the advice regarding car covers. If you don’t have a garage, what to do. I was under the impression that if you purchase a Good quality cover that is breathable it should be absolutely fine ? What’s people’s thoughts regarding this ?
I keep one of my cars under a breathable cover and it’s fine so long as it’s in good condition and you get it off on fine days to dry everything out and give the car a short run every month and a good coat of wax will repel moisture and a battery maintainer plugged in to keep the battery charged up I have never had any issues.
Cars stored outside are best left uncovered. They were designed to be outside. A cover creates a humid atmosphere which causes mould, rust and paint blistering. Also wind causes vibration of the cover, which abrades the paintwork.
@@carlkirk3467 Not if you manage those issues and a lot of old cars leak through seals and windows and end up rotting from within starting with floor pan so not all fit the mould.
@@hughn I have a soft cover underneath the waterproof breathable one secured with straps and bungees it doesn’t rub however strong the wind or fall of snow.
I've never understood classic cars owners who drive or don't drive their cars by the calendar. Some will lock them away on Oct 1st, ignoring all the fine dry days over the winter, and then bring the car out on May 1st when it's pissing down! And why buy a car to enjoy and not use it for seven months???? They work better in the cooler weather anyway!
It's not the wet weather that's the issue, it's the salt on the roads. I'll take my Metro out on rainy days without worrying about it, but once they start salting, it's going away until they stop.
@@ryanwilliams6526 Absolutely. A lot of car owners who don't do their own maintenance have no idea of the destructive effects of salt on cars. I couldn't care about rain but the moment there is salt on the road, wet or dry, I won't use most of my old cars. The only time in the winter they come out is when there has been heavy rain to wash the salt away and it's mild enough that the council hasn't re-applied salt. Then I'll do a run to town or similar, at least 14 miles and B roads for me which means it gets heat and friction into all the places that need it. I'd never start a car and drive up and down the drive for 10 minutes just to exercise it, that's asking for trouble.
Er yes I use a 1961 Anglia 105e everyday on the m25 no ulez charge and it's as fast as all the moderns in today's swamped traffic saves me thousands of £££ every year oh plus it's very green!
Fairly pointless video as there's too many variables to consider, but I will say this... you never know when you'll get hit by a bus or given 6 months at best... just enjoy the bloody thing as often and as much as you can, rust is a shame but dust is a sin, either way you look at it, we just can't win
Sorry terrible advice. Driving it up and down the cul de sac or driveway does it no good whatsoever. Using any car in U.K. winter when salt on the road is also terrible for any car no matter the age. My advice, would be before putting it away for winter change the oil and filter, fill the tank to the brim with good quality fuel and add a fuel additive, connect a good quality CTEK charger, pump up the tyres to around 50psi. If all these followed and stored in the correct conditions ie 55% relative humidity you won’t have any issues. I’ve been storing cars professionally for 20 years. And waxoil, showing his age here such an outdated product. Bilt hamber do a great selection of proper anti corrosion products.
Completely agree on every point. I have to say I watched this and was slightly saddened that the advice seemed like it was 30+ years out of date but given with such confidence. The only point I agree with is to use the car as often as you can but for every part of the country and person, and vehicle that will differ. For many people a compromise is better then a blanket statement one way or another. Compromising salt exposure or short cycling engine starts to call it 'regular use' is totally counterintuitive and misguided when the title of the video was specifically about storage over the winter.
If you are going to store it away over winter, one good tip - leave the handbrake off, never pulled up.
yep wooden chocks are just as good...
That is such a golden rule Geoff. Cheers mate from the old school.
Absolutely. Chocks are the way to go.
And jack up so no load on tyres and suspension.
I leave the handbrake off ALL THE TIME in the garage .... best tip though.... also just keep her rolling ... and just move her occasionally plus a little heat in there to just keep her warm 😜 or maybe a little cuddle now and again .... the wife might get jealous though 😜
Totally agree. Cars like being used. One tip though - invest in a dehumidifier for the garage. That way if you do have to put the car away wet it will soon dry out. You will find that discs stay rust-free and the whole car stays dry. I bought one several years ago, best 100 quid I ever spent.
Great advice from Derek as usual always wondered what people did to keep them in good condition 👍
This is a great bit of advice!
I do exactly the same!! Keeps my car rust free at 55%
Good idea and if you have to store your vehicle outside get a few of these "Dry Z Air" (or similar) and empty them every week or so. Much easier than trying to clean mould off the entire interior in the Spring. Also don't spill the condensation on leather while you are emptying the Dry Z Air its like salt water and will dry out the leather.
I used to manage my Lotus over winter. I only took it out on dry days on salt free roads. Always got the engine up to full temperature. Never had any issues.
I do exactly the same with my Esprit. Drive it for 10-15 miles every fortnight all year round. Letting them stand is asking for trouble.
Spot on. Always use them. Even if I just take them to the shops when there's no salt on the roads.
Lots of good tips, but here in Canada it gets very cold and lots of snow during the winter, so antiques get stored usually from October until April or May.
I have two Alfa's from the 1960's, one Spider and one Coupe, owned both of them for 50 years. So this is what I do for winter storage.
Take each for a good long drive, 10 to 15 km on the highway, that way there is no condensation left in the exhaust or engine, oil is at full operating temp.
Change oil and filter, fill fuel tanks , premium fuel only, no ethanol, add stabilizer to tanks.
Take out spark plugs, using oil can squirt a bit of oil into each cylinder, leave the plugs out, they more or less cover the spark plug holes, crank engine over to distribute oil (20w50) over cylinder walls and piston rings.
Disconnect battery, both have a quick disconnect. NEVER start engine in winter, cold starts create most of the wear and leave a lot of condensation in the exhaust causing premature rot !!!
Make sure tires are fully inflated to avoid flat spotting.
Leave for the winter, charge batteries once a month.
In spring, check all fluids, Connect batteries, crank engine over until oil pressure shows on gauge, install spark plugs, turn on booster pump ( added later, not factory) to fill carburettors ( Weber DCOE's), start engine, let warm up for 5 minutes and go for spin. Big grin on my face again. !!
As someone who has worked in the classic car restoration trade for over 43 years , I would never advocate starting your car and moving it up and down the drive or 100 yards down your street ! The worst thing you can do to an engine, is start it up and let it idle to warm up, then pop up and down your drive. Yes, without doubt cars are better used, but not everyone wants their car on salty dirty roads over winter. If you can not drive your car for at least 5 to 6 miles minimum, the more miles the better, then store it correctly. Old engines need to get thoroughly hot, if left on idle or just shunted up and down the fuel/air mixture is rich, which actually strips oil away from the bores and pistons and short runs can also create condensation and leave harmful chemical deposits in the engine. My advice, if you don't want your car on winter roads take the weight off to prevent tyre flats more so if it's a large heavy car, leave the brake off and connect the battery to a conditioner Ctek are good. A good dehumidifier is a great investment and helps keep the car in a dry environment. Also check your antifreeze and place a fuel stabiliser in the fuel.
Agree with everything ⬆️ starting your car and only running it for short periods of time will do more damage than good. Very poor advice.
Great advice 👍🏻
I would never drive my car unless I was going to travel at least 10 miles, and that includes the summer months, too.
Put it away dry and it'll be fine for 4 months over winter. Disconnect the battery. Don't start it just for a hundred yards, that'll rot the exhaust and not good for engine. Better rolling the car about by pushing it.
5 or 6 miles?😲
Forget it, 20 miles for a start, every week, whether you want to or not but hose it down properly underneath if the roads have been gritted, that salt is a swine.
You need 20 miles minimum to evaporate all condensation and stir all the oils and coolant properly all through, and condition the exhaust, steering, brakes, suspension and probably other stuff that escapes me for the moment. Like aircon and heating.
If you haven't got a 20 mile drive to do then make one up and take the long way back home.
Priceless advice , thankyou for the refreshing facts. I sometimes forget details like youve mentioned. Keep them coming.
As usual he is so right. I learned this the hard way. Lovely Stag in the garage all winter. Nice weather in the Spring so off we went in it from Cambridge to go and have fish and chips you know where in the Dales. We got as far as Doncaster where the brakes seized up. Cars are for use and not just looking at!
Absolutely sound advice from Derek as always. I’ve always changed the oil long before it needs it, as he says it’s only a bit of oil, a filter and nowadays a sump plug. Money well spent.
Wise words Derek.....I am with you......I like to leave the motor running to get it hot if I cant take it for a run.....at least 20 mins.
Also, don't forget your garage. Make sure it has good ventilation. I also put carpet on the floor. This helps to create a thermal barrier. A concrete floor as a minimum and if you can, ensure that it has a 'damp proof membrane'.
My humble experience of owning classic cars for a considerable amount of years is that the most important thing is a perfectly dry storage place. Start it you can every two months and drive it for about 5 miles if possible. Keep an eye out out for mice in the engine bay and close all windows to keep them out. Ideally a good airflow around the car helps. An old woolen bed cover is fine to cover it. Do not use plastic covers. Leave the handbrake off. Trickle charge battery every month or so. Any problems after winter storage just have to be dealt with as best as possible - its whats owning a classic car is about. Happy motoring!
My Alfa is always tucked away over winter. Has been the past 17 years, and always been OK touch wood.
Put it away nice and clean, breathable cover on. I never apply the brakes, I chock the car with some blocks. I trickle charge the battery a couple of times a month with a CTEK charger (brilliant little thing).
Still on its original exhaust (it's 22!), I did have all the brake components changed out a couple of years back (calipers were refurbished, everything else changed).
Seems quite happy in its slumbers.
Here in Norway not much choice, I use silicon brake fluids, have heated flooring, with 40% humidity, ctek charge the battery, but disconnect it from the vehicle. I drain the fuel system now, after all the ethanol rubbish came along.
Agree 100%.
The only time I left my old Land Rover parked up over the winter, it wouldn’t start again in the spring until I’d replaced just about the whole ignition. Now I drive around, or if the weather is bad start it up, for about 30 minutes every week. Also change the oil in the engine, gearbox and diffs every spring before I do drive more regularly.
One bonus about old land rovers is that they leak oil from all over the place so the chassis is usually well protected.
For the rest I use lanoguard, but of course other similar products are available.
Plus as historic vehicles are tax exempt, there’s no reason to have them SORN anymore.
Perfect advice, thank you Derek.👍
Every £1 spent on fuel in your old Rolls/Bentley saves you £2 in maintenance. Works for me.
I wouldn't dream of parking mine up for the winter, I love it to bits and cherish every minute behind the wheel especially in a gloomy British winter when I need a lot of cheering up.
But hose it off properly afterwards if the roads have been gritted, that salt is a killer.
All sound advice. I go through dozens of cans of WD40 especially over winter as I use it under the car and in the nooks and crannies as well as the engine bay. One useful tip I was given from the aircon engineer was to always keep the radiator and condenser clear of road salt in winter by washing with a hose and not a power washer and liberally spraying with WD 🫡
I’ve found silicone spray works a lot better than wd40 as wd seems to dry out quickly!! Silicone spray will protect all the rubbers and plastics both in the engine bay and underneath and it’s a dry lubricant so dirt doesn’t stick!
@ASI-l2w yep, I apply buckets of this especially under my Z4 coupe - the aerosol’s are pretty useless but applied by brush and pumped into enclosed spaces with a spray bottle and nozzle - good stuff 👍
@@Generalkenobi325Great comment, thanks 🙏
Priceless advice Derek, love the oil change advice too. I always learn something from you on here. Keep it coming. Cheers.
Personally I store mine, but I have a bone dry garage. I leave the handbrake off and the battery disconnected. No problems of doing this for 20 years, but ethanol resistant fuel line is essential.
I have had issues with the mechanical fuel pump drying up and petrol sticking the ball bearing and spring non return valve so no fuel came through even when primed. Any start is better than no start but your exhaust will rot quickly if you dont go for a proper blast. Also get those brakes working nice an warm! And get some (lower ethanol) super unleaded (even if the car doesn't need it), use it up and refresh asap within a few months. I keep the tanks low to allow higher dilution of older petrol with new.
Bought a Citroen 2CV (rust being its biggest enemy) 6 months ago and just deciding on which make of fitted car cover to buy. I could fit it in my garage (after a clear out and new door) but favour outside storage for better air circulation. Thanks for this helpful video from Matthewsons (viewed 2 there last week) and I will follow the advice given.
My 2006 MR2 has always been cleaned inside & out (over & under) before being tucked-up in its own garage under a breathable cover by the end of October at the latest & doesn't come out until 1 April (occasionally in March if the weather is good). I do over-inflate the tyres by a few PSI when it is away for the winter.
It is main dealer serviced every year, with the report video from the mechanic showing the all round (& under) as-new condition.
When it is in its garage the battery is connected to a maintenance charger (which can be left connected when starting & idling over the winter).
Every springtime I feel like I'm driving a brand-new car again.
Apart from service items, the only new part required was a new battery (about 10 years ago) - still on the original brakes & exhaust.
I have treated it with Lanoguard for the last 2 seasons.
My wife's classic Mini gets the same treatment as the MR2, including the Lanoguard.
My 2001 Defender lives outside &, not surprisingly, is used all year round but benefits from a galvanised chassis (& lots of Lanoguard).
I use my cars all year round, their combined age is something like 130 years. Regular use, washing drying, sometimes a jet wash underneath. Waxoil type, WD40 and a trickle of engine oil around and along all the seams and joints, oily rag. Have fun !
I couldn't agree more about underseal Derek,,,, back in the 60s 70s was incredibly popular yet all it did was see the cars in scrapyards ten years later... If folks did maintain the underseal by spraying the old engine oil on it would work as it would keep it porous... However second and third owners never did... So it goes hard and just traps the moisture behind it... fatal
What a lot of people don't realize is that even when the road is dry, if it has been gritted without it raining to wash it away you are still damaging your car. Crushed salt dust will be thrown up off the road by your tyres and land in all your nooks and crannies on the underside and wheel arches. It will just sit there until you either drive the car in the wet, or wash it. I have a 1991 Firebird of California spec, so it isn't undersealed. I've had the car 22 years and from Late September to Mid May it never touches the road until I'm 100% sure all the salt has been washed away. Even then, it never goes out in the wet. Kills me to see guys taking their pride and joys out on dry white roads in the winter knowing what they are collecting for future damage.
Add Sta-bil to the petrol to stop ethanol corrosion.
When you have it clean and dry and in the garage cotton dustsheets are great for keeping paint clean and free of contaminants. Buy them from a tool shop or paint supplies and they are very cheap. And take the battery out and put on a solar charger or battery tender, no acid in the car and that battery may last 15 years. And 10psi more air in the tyres will keep them round.
Take mine off the road in October. It’s thoroughly cleaned and waxed beforehand and stored uncovered in a dry garage. Start it once a week at least and get it to temp then move it up and down the drive to keep everything free and avoid flat spots on the tyres. Use a C-Tek battery charger over the winter which has been great. Service it in the spring and only take it out when it’s dry. Not had any issues so far.
"Only take it out when it's dry"
You haven't used it much these last 2 years then.
@@BibTheBoulderTheOriginalOne Am retired so get a lot more opportunity than someone who’s working full time but I agree the summers have been pretty useless the last couple of years.
@@ianashton1593 I have the same issue with my motorbikes. Barely any use these last 2 years.
@@BibTheBoulderTheOriginalOne Planned to go to a few shows this year but a lot of them got rained off. Pistons & Props at Sywell is quite close to me and usually has some great cars. Could only go on the Sunday, forecast was heavy rain and strong wind so they cancelled the event. Mostly ended up doing local cars and coffee charity events. Still good to get out but not ventured far like I usually would. Hopefully next year is better but not holding my breath. Cheers.
@@ianashton1593 Yes it can be very frustrating. For this reason I am considering a Bentley Mulsanne as a daily driver.
Thanks Derek good advice
Great video, although one thing,m dehumidify, even if drying the paint, underneath will be sodden, a small disel heater also works wonders as well as a drafty garage...
Of course get the engine up to temp but the exhaust also need to be warmed up to as you get 1g of water for every 1g of petrol.
This, last winter i moved mine around while doing some work to it without letting everything warm up, when putting it back on the road this spring i noticed lots water coming out of the tail pipes and pin holes in one of the back boxes, obviously caused by condensation.
bang on derrick , back in the 70s i left mine and when i moved it broke all four brake cylinders !
Like this guy says a car has to be used and he knows he’s stuff👏🏽👍🏽🤜🏽🥂
With any BLMC Transverse stuff chock the clutch plate open if your laying it up...( don't place a brick or heavy weight on the clutch peddle as it just puts strain on the clutch master/slave cylinder seals) there notorious for clutch plates rusting on in no time...
My mk1 escort rs2000 hasn't been on a wet road in 25 years.
Good advice.❤
My old Daimler loves a cold winter morning.if its dry im using it
Good advice.
Love Derek
Oh. And the least said about fish and chips in Doncaster, the better.
Old cars don't like being sat outside over winter, used or not. A big well ventilated garage is best, preferably with a bit of heating. Start the engine once every 2 months and let it run for 10-15 minutes. Use all the switches, lights, windows and wipers. Move it backwards and forwards to use the clutch and brakes. Use good antifreeze and some additive in the fuel. Don't put a cover over it - if you must, use a cotton sheet. Dust won't harm it, clean it off now and then with a leather. Leave a window open for ventilation.
The other issue is paying £30 a month to tax it. Sod that.
old enough is tax exempt, mine is though i also intend on using as my only car over winter
Don’t agree,I store my car and attend to it once a month , the benefits of storage is better than the weather attacking it
Yep, give it a roll up and down the driveway at least once a month, don't use covers and, if possible, keep the car in an Airchamber or similar.
Wash it , change the oil, always use high test gas with no ethanol and start it , move it every couple of weeks
The best thing is to continue to use it all year. I've had lots of classic cars , Rolls Royce, a few American cars and lots more.😊😊 I just use them in the dry. The worse thing 😊is to park it in the garage and not use it for 5 months 😊. A very good friend of mine has a ferrari 355 f1. He only uses it in the summer. He never even moves it in the winter 😊 😊 .Such a waste 😂😂 last winter all 4 tyres split because it hasn't been moved.😂 4 brand new tyres required. 😊
I think that’s my DS! (WAS my DS!).
Very nice
I've a safari to restore..... Absolutely LOVE these cars
Not very practical for those of us in the snow belts of Canada where 2 feet of snow overnight occurs several times during the season.
Plus brine on the highways!
Never heard of brine, here it is just salt.
I’m a bit confused about the advice regarding car covers.
If you don’t have a garage, what to do.
I was under the impression that if you purchase a Good quality cover that is breathable it should be absolutely fine ?
What’s people’s thoughts regarding this ?
I keep one of my cars under a breathable cover and it’s fine so long as it’s in good condition and you get it off on fine days to dry everything out and give the car a short run every month and a good coat of wax will repel moisture and a battery maintainer plugged in to keep the battery charged up I have never had any issues.
Cars stored outside are best left uncovered. They were designed to be outside. A cover creates a humid atmosphere which causes mould, rust and paint blistering. Also wind causes vibration of the cover, which abrades the paintwork.
@@carlkirk3467 Not if you manage those issues and a lot of old cars leak through seals and windows and end up rotting from within starting with floor pan so not all fit the mould.
@@hughn I have a soft cover underneath the waterproof breathable one secured with straps and bungees it doesn’t rub however strong the wind or fall of snow.
In addition if stored for any length of time the tyres and the hoses deteriorate and are totally degraded.
Life's too short, drive them!
this is the best advice i have ever heard right where's the the battery for the xk
Leather it off!
3 wheeler mini got me hooked have you sold or seen one still talk to him email now and then lol lal💜🙏💜🧙♀️
I read you own over 100 cars do you do this to them ?
seems they've stopped showing bangers & cash as of 6th october
Had to Google it talk Morgan sure uncle Trevor who let me drive tractor would be happy for what I lernt on farm lal💜🙏💜🧙♀️
I've never understood classic cars owners who drive or don't drive their cars by the calendar. Some will lock them away on Oct 1st, ignoring all the fine dry days over the winter, and then bring the car out on May 1st when it's pissing down! And why buy a car to enjoy and not use it for seven months???? They work better in the cooler weather anyway!
It's not the wet weather that's the issue, it's the salt on the roads.
I'll take my Metro out on rainy days without worrying about it, but once they start salting, it's going away until they stop.
@@ryanwilliams6526 Absolutely. A lot of car owners who don't do their own maintenance have no idea of the destructive effects of salt on cars. I couldn't care about rain but the moment there is salt on the road, wet or dry, I won't use most of my old cars.
The only time in the winter they come out is when there has been heavy rain to wash the salt away and it's mild enough that the council hasn't re-applied salt. Then I'll do a run to town or similar, at least 14 miles and B roads for me which means it gets heat and friction into all the places that need it. I'd never start a car and drive up and down the drive for 10 minutes just to exercise it, that's asking for trouble.
Storage fuel from Anglo American , modern fuel/ ethanol is bad news. Look it up, I have used it for years.
What
sub £10000 60s car would make a good daily driver?
Er yes I use a 1961 Anglia 105e everyday on the m25 no ulez charge and it's as fast as all the moderns in today's swamped traffic saves me thousands of £££ every year oh plus it's very green!
Couple of candidates really, I used MGB, VW, Volvo 132 or a tidy Rover 3500.
@@tsk3392cheers. I was thinking about a rubber bumper mgb.
@@trevjones1315 Nice car. Rust the main issue, nicer if they have the seats recovered in leather or vinyl and a stylish steering wheel too.
Hi
Fairly pointless video as there's too many variables to consider, but I will say this... you never know when you'll get hit by a bus or given 6 months at best... just enjoy the bloody thing as often and as much as you can, rust is a shame but dust is a sin, either way you look at it, we just can't win
I agree with you on that, i'm going to be using a classic as my sole car over winter
Don't store it ....use it
Sorry terrible advice. Driving it up and down the cul de sac or driveway does it no good whatsoever. Using any car in U.K. winter when salt on the road is also terrible for any car no matter the age. My advice, would be before putting it away for winter change the oil and filter, fill the tank to the brim with good quality fuel and add a fuel additive, connect a good quality CTEK charger, pump up the tyres to around 50psi. If all these followed and stored in the correct conditions ie 55% relative humidity you won’t have any issues. I’ve been storing cars professionally for 20 years. And waxoil, showing his age here such an outdated product. Bilt hamber do a great selection of proper anti corrosion products.
Completely agree on every point. I have to say I watched this and was slightly saddened that the advice seemed like it was 30+ years out of date but given with such confidence. The only point I agree with is to use the car as often as you can but for every part of the country and person, and vehicle that will differ. For many people a compromise is better then a blanket statement one way or another. Compromising salt exposure or short cycling engine starts to call it 'regular use' is totally counterintuitive and misguided when the title of the video was specifically about storage over the winter.
Use it or you'll lose it.
My advice don't leave a 1960 mini in garage 30 years lost mate who garage it was and Facebook 17 years 5000 friends hurt lal💜🙏💜🧙♀️
2020 covid bullshit lal💜🙏💜🧙♂️
Can't stand that man look what he did on his wife
Change the brake fluid once a year, as old cars didn’t have sealed caps and fluid keeps absorbing moisture.