Thanks so much for this video! I discovered my floor was slightly unlevel and found your video. While I didn’t do exactly what you did, as I just wanted my machine to sit completely straight, your video was what gave me the idea to make it happen! I basically built a “riser riser” and used the same levelers you used in the video, and it totally fixed my problem! So thanks a ton!!
I built a 6 inch riser to sit under the 1up riser then led. The reason is I'm 5ft 10 and the added 6 inches make it comfortable to play from a standing hight.
I absolutely love this mod. I failed pretty hard though. I tried to cut cost by making a 1x3 frame instead of the plywood base. it flexes quite a bit allowing the machine to shake really easily. Will save up and get the plywood.
The other offset to the full bottom is it keeps LED light bleed from showing up through the top of the riser. Of course when I made this video...lumber prices were normal ;/. Let me know how the second stab at it goes. Good luck!
hey Matt, thanks for the comment! After doing quite a few of these now, I have found that wobble is a thing if you are applying on thicker carpet or any surface that is flexible. If you have thin carpet, hardwood, etc...then there is no wobble once you adjust the feet. But thicker carpet may not get enough weight on all four corners and have some wobble. Consider this for your application. If you do have thick carpet or are experiencing wobble, one avenue to compensate is to add weight to the cabinet (ie something inside it). Additional weight on these generally light cabinets can help (even on the stock feet) and keep them from sliding around. Lastly, adding gasket material between the riser and cab can also eliminate the cab shifting on the riser. You can use the factory screws for this, but I never use those. Gasket material works great. Hope this helps! Cheers,
Thanks for the comment! I was not expecting that much of a lift...just enough to get it off the carpet. It is only roughly a 1" lift. I set my cabs to be somewhere between 0.75" and 1.0". You could likely extend up to 1.25", but the higher you go...the more you lose in stability. However you may find other furniture feet that allow you to raise it higher without losing stability.
Did you run LEDs across the back as well? The way the glow comes off the back wall it appears that you've run them across the back of the cabinets. Update: I just watched your video on the Tron machine where you did show the lighting in the back of the cabinet. Did you create a jumper cable system to connect the cabinet LEDs with the base LEDs for the non-Trons? I wondered why you were going with the 16.4 length LED kits when the riser should only need about 6" If you were able to connect base with cabinet it should be about 16" foot of lighting
@@9scorpions If you didn't catch the update, I watched the Tron video. Did you use a similar jumper shown connecting the two panels to connect the cabinet LEDs with the Riser LEDs? It seems like there was a lot of wasted LEDs if you were using 16.4 foot strand only for the riser, but that it should be enough for both. I hadn't thought about jumping them like that before.
@@MrBluesMessiah Yep, I used a jumper to connect the riser LEDs to the back panel LEDs. I have done this mod with 16.4ft LED kits on 8 or 9 cabs. Usually I have 6" or so of LED's left over. You are spot on that a 16.4ft kit is overkill if you are only going to do the riser. However most kits with LED controllers and WIFI enabled are kits with 16ft or more. I keep my left over strands of LEDS and can build a "new kit" if you will...then you only need to source a LED controller.
@@MrBluesMessiah Also, using a jumper from the back panel to the riser makes it easier when you need to move the cab. You can still separate the cab from the riser by just disconnecting the jump (ie it is not hard wired).
Have questions or need help with your own mod? Or even just to chat. Jump on discord! discord.gg/V27nsKWf8u
Thanks so much for this video! I discovered my floor was slightly unlevel and found your video. While I didn’t do exactly what you did, as I just wanted my machine to sit completely straight, your video was what gave me the idea to make it happen! I basically built a “riser riser” and used the same levelers you used in the video, and it totally fixed my problem! So thanks a ton!!
thanks so much for the comment and glad that it helped out!
This is excellent! Just got my first 1up, and i will be doing your mod this weekend. Thanks for taking the time ti make this video!
Appreciate it and good luck! Which cab did you get?
I followed your lead and did this mod tonight on my star wars and full Pac-Man cabinet. Turned out well. Thanks for the vid and supply list.
hey Cory...that's awesome to hear! Glad I could help out.
Absolutely outstanding!
Thanks!
Fantastic mod. And Great, professional Video, well done!!
Thank you!
That's a cool mod. Thanks for sharing
Awesome mod! I like how you color coded it to the game like yellow for Pac-Man and green for Galaga.
Thanks!
I haven't seen this mod before. Looks incredible! And great tutorial.
Thank you!
Sweet mod. 🦊👊🏼
thanks brother. Love your content by the way...I am a subscriber.
I built a 6 inch riser to sit under the 1up riser then led. The reason is I'm 5ft 10 and the added 6 inches make it comfortable to play from a standing hight.
I absolutely love this mod. I failed pretty hard though. I tried to cut cost by making a 1x3 frame instead of the plywood base. it flexes quite a bit allowing the machine to shake really easily. Will save up and get the plywood.
The other offset to the full bottom is it keeps LED light bleed from showing up through the top of the riser. Of course when I made this video...lumber prices were normal ;/. Let me know how the second stab at it goes. Good luck!
Looking on making some custom risers so this will be an awesome addition.
Great video!
New sub here. 👍
Much appreciated! If you have any questions when you get there, hit me up here. Happy to help. Cheers,
@@9scorpions I appreciate that. Thank you.
very slick.
thanks!
Great mod! And this doesn't cause the cabinet to wobble when playing?
hey Matt, thanks for the comment! After doing quite a few of these now, I have found that wobble is a thing if you are applying on thicker carpet or any surface that is flexible. If you have thin carpet, hardwood, etc...then there is no wobble once you adjust the feet. But thicker carpet may not get enough weight on all four corners and have some wobble. Consider this for your application. If you do have thick carpet or are experiencing wobble, one avenue to compensate is to add weight to the cabinet (ie something inside it). Additional weight on these generally light cabinets can help (even on the stock feet) and keep them from sliding around. Lastly, adding gasket material between the riser and cab can also eliminate the cab shifting on the riser. You can use the factory screws for this, but I never use those. Gasket material works great. Hope this helps! Cheers,
This is great! Thanks so much for this. How much more height were you looking for originally and how much did this end up giving you?
Thanks for the comment! I was not expecting that much of a lift...just enough to get it off the carpet. It is only roughly a 1" lift. I set my cabs to be somewhere between 0.75" and 1.0". You could likely extend up to 1.25", but the higher you go...the more you lose in stability. However you may find other furniture feet that allow you to raise it higher without losing stability.
@@9scorpions You're very welcome! Thanks for that additional info!
Did you run LEDs across the back as well? The way the glow comes off the back wall it appears that you've run them across the back of the cabinets. Update: I just watched your video on the Tron machine where you did show the lighting in the back of the cabinet. Did you create a jumper cable system to connect the cabinet LEDs with the base LEDs for the non-Trons? I wondered why you were going with the 16.4 length LED kits when the riser should only need about 6" If you were able to connect base with cabinet it should be about 16" foot of lighting
@@9scorpions Ha. You were responding as I was updating. 🙂
@@9scorpions If you didn't catch the update, I watched the Tron video. Did you use a similar jumper shown connecting the two panels to connect the cabinet LEDs with the Riser LEDs? It seems like there was a lot of wasted LEDs if you were using 16.4 foot strand only for the riser, but that it should be enough for both. I hadn't thought about jumping them like that before.
@@MrBluesMessiah Yep, I used a jumper to connect the riser LEDs to the back panel LEDs. I have done this mod with 16.4ft LED kits on 8 or 9 cabs. Usually I have 6" or so of LED's left over. You are spot on that a 16.4ft kit is overkill if you are only going to do the riser. However most kits with LED controllers and WIFI enabled are kits with 16ft or more. I keep my left over strands of LEDS and can build a "new kit" if you will...then you only need to source a LED controller.
@@MrBluesMessiah Also, using a jumper from the back panel to the riser makes it easier when you need to move the cab. You can still separate the cab from the riser by just disconnecting the jump (ie it is not hard wired).
@@9scorpions Yep. I've never tried that yet, but think I'm going to give it a shot. I'm not too bad with a soldering iron. Brilliant idea.
Bet