Chinese Insect Zapper (Mosquito Killer) - crazy circuit and burning resistors.
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- This is a teardown of a Chinese insect zapper (or mosquito killer). It has a completely mad circuit that makes no sense - probably a totally botched up conversion from a fluorescent tube to a UV LED). After a few seconds, two resistors started to burn inside. It also has no discharge resistors, so the grid and the plug can give you a shock after it's unplugged. The picture in the listing says it also kills rats, although I really can't imagine how the rodents could get through the grid into the machine (which, at the top of it, is meant to hang from a ceiling). Warning - dangerous voltages. There's a high voltage in the grid with no mains isolation. Capacitors do stay charged after turned off / unplugged.
UPDATE: I've got a full refund for this rubbish.
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It is not insect killer, it killed itself before killing anything else.
maybe its vegan
It is a suicider.
It's an insect killer killer
The review was conducted in a hilarious manner. I was laughing away at it was funny. Yes, the Chinese from China have very poor Command of English, so there's a lot of information that get lost in translation. At times, I do not understand what the product description and instruction is trying to put across. This reviewer made my day. The picture illustration was funny with the mouse part.
I like the way of showing problems. They will always criticize you. This is an invaluable help because you yourself will not notice the mistakes you make. Do not be angry with critics. Correct what you can. You have a big talent.
It kills mice by burning your house down! :-D
KilroyNBC year you cook and eat.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😅
Good one bro.
😂
It also kills you and everyone in your house, and possibly, everyone in your neighbourhood!
LOL 😅
Chinese mouse fly.
LOL
from the amount of chemicals they produce the eventually will
Władca Niczego
They eventually will fly due to chemicals ?....can these devices produce spells that transforms mouses to fly and than later kill them ?
it only kills communist flys
@@bob-ii8oe < Kill a commie for mommy! ;)
cant stop laughing when I saw the sketch for the mouse. 😂😂😂
Similar here 🤣🤣😂😂. Drawing was perfect 😁
me too!!!!
Hello, Little reminder for you to come check this mouse 😁
It's a greater risk to the user than a mosquito. Great video, keep em coming.
I recently repaired one of my mosquito lamps and it had a very similar circuit. It had a real UV fluorescent tube though, not an LED. It seems like just what you said - they had a lamp designed for a tube and they put a low voltage LED 'tube' instead of the real high voltage tube.
The LED tube is probably meant to run off a 12V AC transformer like used for low voltage halogen fixtures.
That 1.5 v ~ 3 vdc uv led
I hope you got a refund for these.
Yes I've got :)
If you just unsolder these two diodes and simply short circuit the 2 burned resistors, the ultraviolet LED may work.
Then you can start zapping a few flying rats.
One way: The mice eat the live wires and get grilled.
The other way: The mice eat the live wires and get poisoned to death by cheap chinese plastic even faster than the mains voltage would kill them.
Love the mouse drawing, Brilliant !
110 Volt plug put on 220/240V supply with the Chinesium adaptor. You Popped it. Great reverse engineering. Piece of dangerous plastic rubbish.
Actually, that's a Chinese ungrounded plug, not a US one. They're similar, and will physically interchange, but not identical, and the Chinese plug doesn't comply with US code. China uses 240v. The quickest way to distinguish the two is that the Chinese plug lacks the holes in the blades. Also, most of them have a much smaller grip, too small to comply with our electrical code.
I've never heared funnier english accent
His accent sounds like a cross between welsh, French, polish, Iranian.
He's from Czech Republic
the* Czech Republic
I've never heard a "funny" English accent. What's funny is people that only speak one language that laugh at someone who probably speaks four.
Kam1kadze Official but he was scammed :D
These zappers are a fire hazard. The resistors burn within 1 hour. It is a voltage amplifier circuit that barely works. The LED circuit is being fed about 40 volts off the R2 resistor and that is why it gets so hot. I initially replaced the R2 resistors with 10 watt resistors and they still get super hot. I bought 2 of these and both burned R2 resistor almost immediately. I replaced the LED circuit with a 120v to 3.5 volt buck converter from ebay and the led's work great now. The grid side has never failed.
The voltage to the led is supplied by a 7.5k ohm resistor (R2) off the main board. The 5k resistor is for the grid only.
The burnt resistor R2 is the resistor for the LED power supply. And you burned the two LED resistors when you plugged it into the mains with a light socket which bypassed the resistor R2 on the main board.
You will never achieve the 600 volts with the components on the board because of the voltage drop. The most I got out of the main board was 460 volts which is only slightly over the rating of the caps. The reason they did this is to save money. It's the same reason there are two different values for the capacitors. The lower value capacitors are just adequate at the position they are in and are cheaper than the higher value caps.
There should have been a proper capacitive dropper for the LED. Not a resistor as the only thing that drops the voltage. Seems like the circuit originally was a doubler for CCFL. With a proper capacitive dropper for LED, well rated capacitors in the multiplier and with a fuse, it would be a good device.
0:35 I ask every viewer to pause and read. It's hilarious! "No smelly cleanliness and HEATH!" 😂
I did..your right !
Also says: "make use of special lisht frow special light tube to lure the Insent, sueh as mosuito" :'D
Thanks fella for showing the deadly garbage sold on the internet 👍
Love a product tear review/teardown that goes into the actual operation. The mouse diagram was a laugh bonus.
i just cant get the image of a mouse/rat flying through the sky to get to the zapper, is it possible they ment a bat LOL :-D :-D.
Nice drawing he he :-D.
And still they never use anyone that slightly understands english to write the box discription.
How can they be so utterly bad in this day and age?
I can't even believe my eyes!
Thats "Be reive"
"Can use for long-term without break"
Suuuure.
Man...you are too good.. I just kept on laughing watching how you are calculating staffs... I subscribed only for the way u presented the things and did the calculation and made the video in another level. Keep on...
I like how you explained the circuitry, I understood them and made me intrested even though I know nothing about electronics.
You are the best! Thanks for your explanations.
That was a funiest reverse engenering ive seen. Thanks a lot. Rotfl!!! You make very interesting electronic videos! Keep going. God bless your family
I thought I got it cheap on eBay because they had an error in their production and many units were made with a 1/4 Watt resistor when really it should have been at least a 2 Watt. But as you are saying, it was probably meant for a florescent tube! I wanted to map out my schematic but didn't so far. Interesting that it works fine now when I replace the resistor with a 5 Watt.
However it's still a mediocre unit because I also found out that the "kill power" of this thing is very low. While you do get a nice big spark if you short the grid, it hardly kills bugs that land on it. It's most effective in killing what looks like little moths, they are attracted to the light and just stick to the grid and don't burn up in any way. But I tried to kill some fruit flies, and had to trick them by putting the unit on top of a little container with fruit peels. So I found two on the grid. One of them was dead, and the other was alive basically jumping between the two wires, like saying hahaha, it can't kill me. So I took a matchstick and moved the fly so its body, not just wing, made contact with the two wires and then it started burning it with smoke emanating and it STUNK! I understand that the more "legit" bug zappers are strong enough to pretty much blow the bug apart as it hits the grid, and the bug gets partially burned and falls right off the grid to the bottom. Somehow this unit's HV circuit produces a few thousand volts but very little current, so it's not enough to really travel effectively through the bugs that end up on it. Either way I understand that in order to attract mosquitoes you need a source of carbon dioxide, and some movement. They are not attracted to UV light...
"The corners of the box are slightly compressed." - the most polite accusation of a delivery company.
By looking at the circuit before the 'Tube', I can't quite work out how that would power the tube without blowing. Apart from the burned resister (which I assume is an inrush current limiter), there's nothing limiting the current flowing through the two diodes for half the AC cycle through the tube. Even the 220nf capacity doesn't make sense. I reckon if this 220nf capacitor was inline like the top-left 47nf capacitor, the current would be limited enough to drive the UV 'Tube'. But if that was a real tube, the DC current would result in a very short life, like some battery operated fluorescent lights that ran the tube on DC.
I think it originally worked with some UV CCFL tube. It's voltage drop was higher than the mains peak voltage, so it didn't blow up. It worked as a current limited multiplier. As long as the tube's voltage drop was less than 1x mains peak, it limited the current thanks to the 220nF capacitor reactance. And yes, it is DC current that shortens the life of tubes, but chinese never care about this.
I didn't realise how high the voltage drop is on CCFL's. Indeed the reliability of the non LED version is poor, I found it on Amazon UK and about half the reviews mention that it failed within days of purchase. I love your diagram of the mouse 🐭 I'd also like to see a mouse trap that catches mosquitoes... 😊
A proper UV fluorescent tube can last about 5000 - 10 000 hours with a proper magnetic ballast (AC) or a high frequency electronic ballast. LED's could do even better, but they have to have a proper power supply and they shouldn't run at 4x their maximum current (as Chinese designs usually do). The light output also has to be enough to replace the fluorescent tube (one 5mm LED is not enough). And the wavelenght has to be suitable - 365nm or even better 350nm. The cheap 395 or 405nm LED's suck in those zappers. I still stick to my old fluorescent zapper with a heavy iron ballast.
The R2 resistor that burns on the main board supplies about 40 volts to the LED board, which then reduces it down even further and rectifies it so the LED doesn't burn out. The R2 resistor is a 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor and needs to be at least a 10 watt resistor. Like he said in the video, there are two completely separate circuits.
if u can make it china will fake it
I am slightly puzzled... How do you even turn the thing on when it is suspended from the ceiling?... Are you supposed to climb on a chair each time you want it on or off, since the switch is located on the top?... Nice touch! How clever!
BTW, I think it shows everything it CANNOT kill on the package. You'll notice human beings are not represented... mmh. ;)
thank you for testing these products from countries with low safety standards.
Haha.. I cant stop laugh.. you are funny.. Rat Can Fly..??
indeed he is very funny
Sabahan RUclipsr me too brother
Flying mouse omg... You made me laugh, thanks :DDD love the painting
Did it state the voltage on the package, instructions or sale listing? I think that Chinese plug is actually North American! Same plug but 100V difference! Instead of that plug adapter, they should have sent a plug converter! I bet the math works better at 120V!
Love engrish on packaging
0:34 2. "Lure the insent"
the burned resistor is 5.1k.
Yeah, and that was the only one that burned at 120V. I replaced it with a 5W ceramic resistor and it works perfectly, just a bit warm.
@@TekWhizz I just realize this is one of my first ever comments
Well, Mr you won the Nobel prize in physics
Mouse are you kidding me?! Lmao at his reactions
I also guess the circuit was designed to use custom fluorescent tube, not LED.
The capacitors actually only charge to the peak of mains voltage each. 400 volt capacitors will allow operation up to 283 volts AC safely. The capacitors closer to the mains handle more current, therefore, need to be larger values. All in all, the series capacitance needs to be appropriate for the desired discharge energy. It's nicely designed. The 5.1K resistor is too low a value. In a fault condition, like the grid wires shorting, or a bug bridging the grid wires, that resistor could dissipate as much as 11.3 watts!! it won't take much to smoke that! one can only hope that the capacitor values are low enough, to reduce the dissipation of that resistor in a fault condition. It almost looks like the voltage multiplier was designed for 240 V AC, and the light was designed for 120 V AC. Anyway, it looks like a passable design, but with the wrong resistor values.
Perhaps it was meant for 115V 60Hz
Yep, because it has that Chinese plug.
Its not made for 240 volt i think
If it's not made for 240V then why did they include a European adapter in the package?
If it was made for 240 volt, why wasn't there a european plug in the first place?
Oscar Hartman it has a Chinese plug. And China uses 240v as well. No, it's not a US plug. China uses a plug design for ungrounded equipment that is very similar to the US 2- prong plug, but not exactly the same. Note the absence of the holes in the blades. Also, the part you grip tends to be smaller than what is legally allowed in the US. They will fit a US outlet, but they're not compliant.
yeap math makes more sense with 120V...
The mouse dies because of the ozone made by the UV lamp.
My first instinct when it failed was "designed for 120V or less"... which may be true, but I don't see how it would work properly at lower voltages either.
Maybe, but those resistors would burn even at 110V~. The capacitors are rated for 400V, this is usual for 220V~ products. In 110V~ products there are usualy 250V capacitors. The desing seems to be originally for some fluorescent tube or CCFL, that had a higher operating or ignition voltage. The LED tube was put into it without even testing it. Or they tested it for like 1s, so that the resistor didn't have time to overheat.
markiangooley It might be 230v, the Chinese use the N American plug for that voltage.
The circuit is made exactly the same for 110 or 220, they just change the plug. It is a fire hazard at best. The values on the components in this video are exactly the same as the zappers I bought here in the states for 110 volts.
After this video the product even gained new features: Child Killer, Fog machine and House burner.
I think the smaller caps give about 1.5kV in total. When it gets loaded, small caps are discharged and 390nF caps are effectively in series ie. only 600V or so for the larger current zap from the large caps. That may have to do with not overloading the circuit with large current pulse like you'd get if all caps were large.
It kills the mouse by burning down the house!!!!!!!
I have one of these which is physically identical but with different construction. If I recall correctly the light is in series with a dropper capacitor across the power input and the grid is a single stage multiplier. And this is for 120v. I might need to check it again because I don't think 340v is enough to zap insects.
If we neglect the 220nF capacitor and the two diodes in the lamp circuitry, the burned Non-47Ω resistor would have dissipated around 15 Watts. The value could be something like 3.3kΩ.
So many strange circuit in chinese products. I had an emergency lamp that burned when it was charging. The resistor to red LED indicator was burned and the elco from bridge rectifier was blowed into pieces. The elco only 50v, and the resistor power clasification is only 1/4 watt with a mysterious value too. It's clearly a 800mA current is running on the circuit. The main light contains 40pcs smd LED 3.2v in a paralel. And because of two component were blowed, the rotary resistancy switch and the transistor are become broken. I analyzed that they use negative path to controlling the transistor.
The other emergency lamp has a solar panel which using negative path through the switch. And amazingly the solar panel is directly connected to 3pcs paralel 3.7v li-on battery. The circuit board was burned included all component on it. I tested the solar panel's voltage output and it could reach 15volt under the light of lamp. Buahaha...
Czenglish ! :D ok bratu , subscribed :D
that desing of the mouse flying ... man i just pissed my self from laughing.... good one :)
1:29 sírijúsly
that mouse part killed me !! lol , I am laughing like stupid at 2:50am in the morning lol!!! hahahha thumbs up for that!
It comes with 20seconds warranty.
Lol, the "kill" and "zap" part in the Ad was referring to the resistors. By the way, the 1500v will still be too low for most insects at that electrodes separation of the grid. The one I have uses 3600v (from a switching inverter) and that one works just fine. Unfortunately, does not kill mice either...
Oh, and you are right about the doubler going to the light bulb. Originally, those units had a fluorescent UV-A bulb with a screw base just like that, but I guess that other Chinese seller scammed this Chinese seller into buying LED lamps that work "exactly" the same as replacements, lol
Hej man your videos are the best!
Always your videos are 🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳 Indian vs China
They didnt lie about LED
Miluju ty hodiny v pozadí :D/ I love clocks in background :D
OMG the bug zapper died just out of the BOX! Priceless! hahaha
Oh my god thank you 😂😂😂😂
I was having a terrible day and now I can't stop laughing and the mouse schematic OMG
Is there any rated voltage mentioned on the box? They put an adapter to box bot i dont think they thought about voltage values.
I like how the latest one is better and worse at the same time
If the 2 diodes before the light were cathode to cathode or were anode to anode you would get a significant voltage and current drop. So much of a drop it wouldn't matter if it was used in a 230v or 120v source. I can't tell by the video if the drawing and or silkscreen on the board was wrong, or if a diode was just put in backwards. This unit has none of the safety features required to be UL Approved and is probably available in the USA via the internet only. As with any product bought direct from the country of origin, buyer beware.
High voltage power network intensive can escape in a small mosquito. + kills flying rats and mouses super interesting
Is it rated for 120 volts only maybe... Ain't it 240 volts where you're from?
why does it say '470' on the resistors? do the maths and notice that it is 0.245 A and consequently 56W (no insanity there)
The resistors marked 470 are 47 ohms, not 470 ohms. The 47 is the value in ohms and the 0 is how many zeros you have to add.
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/susumu/RGH2012-2E-P-470-B/RGH20P47BCT-ND/1143271
4. Can use for long-term without break
@DiodeGoneWild -
They might retrofitted this thing from tube (voltage doubler) to LED the extra chep way (even for Chinese junk) , because they might had much of this boards catching dust ^^
u sure this was meant to run on 220 and not 120? that may bring some of these components back into specs.
I think the schematic makes sense if only the polarity is respected, if not it is a gamble!
Dude I love you so much.
Component crematorium. The components get zapped before any insect gets near it. Je je.
Mosquito Killer gone wild and killed itself.
I think it only for 120v
3:37 they made it for the mice.
😂😂🤣
Very nice vid.
FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIAH
It is amazing how bad the translations are. They didn't even bother to use Google translate properly, not mentioning of hiring a person who knows English. Like, for they the word "insent,sueh" is just fine.
Even there is a spelling mistake in the title "Electricrl". What is going on, seriously...
omg.iReallyLaughedWithTears.
This lamp has an American plug, so it is most likely that the working voltage is 110 V instead of 230 V. So you have destroyed the lamp.
Looks like that bug zapper the changed to an LED lamp from a flourescent lamp last minute without testing it perhaps
On the picture its on and looks better :D u think they can hold it on power for photo ?
It was sold as an LED device. So they were truthful. They should have mentioned it was super crappy tho.
I think it means when it burns down your house that will kill the mice
Lmao at the box instructions full of typos and lmao at the accent haha
can this be charge with cellphone charger? is there portal?
ty vole, to je strašný... O_o
ten prízvuk ? :D
zní jak čech :D
fajf handrt watts :D
Interesting video, thank you
I like the way you speek..,
Are you kidddding meee?
can it kill a humanized mouse ??
Maybe the guy in your electric chair drawing could hold the mouse kill two birds with one stone.
But did it die?
The circle with the line through it meant it doesn't work on those
Favorite words : cocorrocheeees,seareislieeee
26 sold 😂
Humanized hook, switch. Interesting
Can someone advice what is the part number for the light tube used in this bug zapper ? thanks
Also it's funny, it has the red switch in the photo, and in this video, the switch is there, but the one I got, the box and everything is the same and the red button is pictured, but is not on the unit! I got 2 of them at the same time, unfortunately.