The idlers gear only lines up every 60 revs or so. Ford was awesome about using the dribble timing method to set things. A couple degrees make a big difference. Also check the governor boost line it can get over tightened and cut air off so the pump wont adjust as it should.
The injection gear looks like it has some flat teeth does no one see that at 1:44? Guess it's just shadows! I hate when I think I found the problem just to find out it wasn't the problem. I have a 3000 1971 series ford 3 cyl gas and when adjusting the valves I find the intake valve starts opening about 12 deg after TDC 0 deg on the flywheel. The exhaust valve finishes closing about 36 deg after TDC 0 deg on flywheel markings. How can I tell if my warm running lack of power symptoms are due to a misalignment of cam timing without accessing the cam gear timing mark? I think I might have to rip the front end off. Wish there was another way to tell if the cam is installed with proper timing seems like 36 degrees from TDC is pretty far into the intake stroke to be just finishing the exhaust valve closure. I guess that could be normal but my exhaust valve has about .002 play on cyl 1 when according to the manual the rocker arms should be tight. I guess tight could be a realative term.
@@rodgaskins the gas 3000s were really picky on fuel pressure with the carb setup they had. Also they had a bad tendency to heat soak the carb and plugs causing hot lack of power concerns. I have seen where the fuel line was run to close to the exhaust etc. Plug temperature is more important on the industrial engine than most people realize. Also proper cleaning of the points and a good quality condenser so that there is proper spark. The 3000 gas ALWAYS left something to be desired as far as I am concerned. It just seemed to be lacking no matter what you did. The likelyhood of a cam being out of time would be so small I wouldn't even consider it. If the cam gear moved it isn't going to stop it will slip to the point it would barely run. As far as the flat teeth in the video it is just oil on the gears. Those gears are case hardened. Once you wear through that the gear will fail in a matter of hours.
@@countryboysteve thanks I'll look into the heat soak issue sounds like it makes sense with the symptoms it's giving me which are loss of power when under a load after it's been running at high idle for a long period. Who could mess up the dots on the gears right it's not like a distributor rotor the marks are right there stamped in for you although I was working with a guy once who... well lets just say if the dots were a little off he might say, "Ah, close enough" Thanks again for sharing your experience, I"m kinda feeling down now I thought I was going to get to tear the front of the tractor off for my first time :( oh well guess less sandblasting old parts to put them back on looking like new ;)
Your timing gear on the injection pump does not appear to be lined up….. at least it looks like that in the picture, Also the teeth on the injection pump and drive gear looks like 2 teeth are broken or badly worn….. it may be the angle of the camera tho. Those 9600 Fords are good tractors! I’m curious if it is fixed now?
The injector drive gear looks odd. It might just be the angle and the lighting but it looks like it is off one tooth. Both gears are beveled and the injector drive gear isn’t as thick as the idler gear so that might be why it looks off. I am just finishing up the rebuild on my 1967 Ford 3000 diesel and they look pretty much the same from the front like your showing here, same layout gear wise and timing is also the same with #1 at top dead center on the power stroke, compression stroke or firing point what ever you chose to call it. That injector timing looks weird. At 2:36 you can see that it is lined up ok, got to look quick though. 👍
Do you install the pump once it’s at 23 degrees??after getting front gears in time? Or do you install the pump in time with the front gears a 0 degrees
I'd say you have either a lack of air suction from something or its just old and tired and needs an overhaul or its just the pump getting weak and not able to keep up. Does it have any blow by? Is the turbo all sealed up and no shaft play? I'd check all of that if its still weak.
No, still is suffering from a lack of power. Turned the fuel up and all it does is throw huge amounts of black smoke. Although, it starts very quickly, even in cold temps. We are guessing that it is only generating around 100 HP because our Ford 8000 will keep up to it.
Yes we are at a similar point. Our gear seems right but the pump gear was wrong. We have also took pump and injectors to be tested. Also another thing did outset it up when number 1 piston is at top dead Center on the compression stroke? You have to really take the valve cover off so you can see when at correct position.
@@Robinrob181191A I love taking off valve covers... "what's this someone broke of a valve cover bolt and painted over it and gobbed silicone all over this corner of the valve cover gasket! Even more fun ;)
The idlers gear only lines up every 60 revs or so. Ford was awesome about using the dribble timing method to set things. A couple degrees make a big difference. Also check the governor boost line it can get over tightened and cut air off so the pump wont adjust as it should.
The injection gear looks like it has some flat teeth does no one see that at 1:44? Guess it's just shadows! I hate when I think I found the problem just to find out it wasn't the problem. I have a 3000 1971 series ford 3 cyl gas and when adjusting the valves I find the intake valve starts opening about 12 deg after TDC 0 deg on the flywheel. The exhaust valve finishes closing about 36 deg after TDC 0 deg on flywheel markings. How can I tell if my warm running lack of power symptoms are due to a misalignment of cam timing without accessing the cam gear timing mark? I think I might have to rip the front end off. Wish there was another way to tell if the cam is installed with proper timing seems like 36 degrees from TDC is pretty far into the intake stroke to be just finishing the exhaust valve closure. I guess that could be normal but my exhaust valve has about .002 play on cyl 1 when according to the manual the rocker arms should be tight. I guess tight could be a realative term.
@@rodgaskins the gas 3000s were really picky on fuel pressure with the carb setup they had. Also they had a bad tendency to heat soak the carb and plugs causing hot lack of power concerns. I have seen where the fuel line was run to close to the exhaust etc. Plug temperature is more important on the industrial engine than most people realize. Also proper cleaning of the points and a good quality condenser so that there is proper spark. The 3000 gas ALWAYS left something to be desired as far as I am concerned. It just seemed to be lacking no matter what you did. The likelyhood of a cam being out of time would be so small I wouldn't even consider it. If the cam gear moved it isn't going to stop it will slip to the point it would barely run. As far as the flat teeth in the video it is just oil on the gears. Those gears are case hardened. Once you wear through that the gear will fail in a matter of hours.
@@countryboysteve thanks I'll look into the heat soak issue sounds like it makes sense with the symptoms it's giving me which are loss of power when under a load after it's been running at high idle for a long period. Who could mess up the dots on the gears right it's not like a distributor rotor the marks are right there stamped in for you although I was working with a guy once who... well lets just say if the dots were a little off he might say, "Ah, close enough" Thanks again for sharing your experience, I"m kinda feeling down now I thought I was going to get to tear the front of the tractor off for my first time :( oh well guess less sandblasting old parts to put them back on looking like new ;)
Your timing gear on the injection pump does not appear to be lined up….. at least it looks like that in the picture, Also the teeth on the injection pump and drive gear looks like 2 teeth are broken or badly worn….. it may be the angle of the camera tho.
Those 9600 Fords are good tractors! I’m curious if it is fixed now?
The injector drive gear looks odd. It might just be the angle and the lighting but it looks like it is off one tooth. Both gears are beveled and the injector drive gear isn’t as thick as the idler gear so that might be why it looks off. I am just finishing up the rebuild on my 1967 Ford 3000 diesel and they look pretty much the same from the front like your showing here, same layout gear wise and timing is also the same with #1 at top dead center on the power stroke, compression stroke or firing point what ever you chose to call it. That injector timing looks weird.
At 2:36 you can see that it is lined up ok, got to look quick though. 👍
I buy ford 5000 and its have a problem same this video.. Hope fully i found & fix that problem.
Which mark on the flywheel corresponds to the timing mark on the pump?
Do you install the pump once it’s at 23 degrees??after getting front gears in time? Or do you install the pump in time with the front gears a 0 degrees
So when the engine is in time I turn the engine 23 degrees and install the injection pump while it’s in time with itself ??
Se pude saber cómo armar la trasmisión del Ford 6600
I'd say you have either a lack of air suction from something or its just old and tired and needs an overhaul or its just the pump getting weak and not able to keep up. Does it have any blow by? Is the turbo all sealed up and no shaft play? I'd check all of that if its still weak.
Checking is on my list to now how to check blowby?
Hello, did it solve the problem we have similar problem at the moment.
No, still is suffering from a lack of power. Turned the fuel up and all it does is throw huge amounts of black smoke. Although, it starts very quickly, even in cold temps. We are guessing that it is only generating around 100 HP because our Ford 8000 will keep up to it.
Yes we are at a similar point. Our gear seems right but the pump gear was wrong. We have also took pump and injectors to be tested. Also another thing did outset it up when number 1 piston is at top dead Center on the compression stroke? You have to really take the valve cover off so you can see when at correct position.
@@Robinrob181191A I love taking off valve covers... "what's this someone broke of a valve cover bolt and painted over it and gobbed silicone all over this corner of the valve cover gasket! Even more fun ;)
Timing for Ford 4000 tractor