DIY Perks Hey. Make it battery powered using pulsed relays. Also try to make a two channel one for clapping two times for channel one and three times for channel two. Using (expensive) beefy relais may allow you to put on power strips for multiple appliances!
***** ... Batterypowerd? a batterpowered mains switch, so you can turn of your charger that charges the batteries for your clap-switch? now i see why you need two channels...
dicky dicky Totally wrong! The conversion of 250 Volts into 5 Volts using even a switching PSU is much more inefficient as just taking two 9V batteries and use pulse relays. So the circuit does only draw very low power to power the micro and only when a switching impulse is sent the relay is used. The batteries would last for at least one year and batteries are pretty cheap in germany. I could also use 6 AAA eneloops and recharge them EXTERNALLY. It's much better than permanently have a PSU on the mains... I just do not like it to do so! We pay 30 Euro-Cents each fucking KWh in fucking Germany! Congrats for almost free electricity in USA...
It is because of stuff like this why I'm starting to teach myself about coding and programming and also learning about all the different hardware and what it does. I ordered a raspberry pi to learn coding on and eventually I can add components to the pi so I can learn more about the hardware side of things. I'm sure it will take me quite awhile to learn all of this but my goal is to be able to create things like this guy. It's amazing!
Wieder ein super Video! Macht wirklich Spaß deine vids zu schauen und ich habe echt Lust deine Projekte selbst auszuprobieren. Was ich besonders Klasse finde: Du erklärst nicht nur wie man es baut, sondern gibst dazu noch elektrotechnisches Wissen an uns weiter! Mach weiter so!
Made it myself!!! I found on tindie (searc: All ATtiny Arduino programmer shield) - which simplify the tiny programming the bonus is that it can easily hook the tiny micros....
This really does work nicely, congratulations for another excellent instructional video. I would like to add a very quick note about the circuit diagram. I made the mistake of wiring the output of the ATtiny85 as per the diagram which shows pin 2 and not pin 7. Only after this did I look at the datasheet pinout, and see D2 is pin 7. This is here to assist others who made the same error as me but look here for an answer. Love your videos😊
Just discovered your channel. even u hardly am ever able to make these kind of stuff I've always loved these kind of electronic project channels keep it up
Just discovered your channel. even u hardly am ever able to make these kind of stuff I've always loved these kind of electronic project channels keep it up
Great job mate. I suppose you can add 3 and 4 claps switches depending on the timing and the number of claps right? Now THAT would be even more catchy!
Nic Brain if you can achieve the first step, which is the 1 clap then you can do the resrt.You just need an oscilloscope for that, something that i dont have. But the idea is measure the timing with the oscilloscope and put according delays on the arduino code.
Theo papa thanks for the fast reply . Because am a beginner On this arduino coding and stuffs iT makes things kinda harder . I dont know maybe u can help me make this code ? My aim is to turn different appliances On with different number of claps. For example 2 clap to turn a pc On and 3 clap to turn the tv On
i am afraid you should relax and start as everyone does. From simple stuff. Start by learning the basic commands and achieve manipulation of leds, stepper motors and then lcd screens. You ll gain experience this way. Controling high power devices like the ones you want require solid understanding of coding and most importantly of risks of electricity. So you d better take it slow.
i love your accent cus. everytime i use heatshrink i think "termal tshrinking ishulatoooooor". i love your work, you help me understand shit other people make really complicated.
I remember I built a clap switch with "one clap on, two clap off" feature 7 years ago. I used the output of my mic preamplifier (a simple transistor stage) and fed it to a monostable stage wired around IC555. the output clocked a decade counter (CD4017) and the second bit triggered a JK flip-flop for latching the output. It's amazing how a tiny MCU can reduce the part count so much! :)
!!Excellente GScott made a low noise amplifier, as always make clean projects with pros n cons well explained in short time, pretty like Andreas Spies...
I dont know why am i watching your videos, i dont understand electricity, im stupid at programming, i have no idea what are you doing, but i just love your videos, your inventions and voice :D have a nice day mate :D
Hey just a quick side note, I noticed that that relay was rated 125 volts. However it's always a good idea to use a relay rated twice the voltage you put through it. For example if you use 120 volts then use a 240 volt rated relay, if you use 240 volts then use a 480 volt relay. It will greatly reduce the risk of arcing and will be a lot safer.
fantastic video man. I just gotta build this next! I have a room and the light switch is on the far wall away from the door. I always curse bumping into things to get to the switch. I bring a torch but this is sooo much better
This is really cool, and actually quite close to something I was trying to do not long ago. I wanted to fit a lock to my front door and drill a small hole for a LDR, and use a momentary flashlight as a "clap". If you flash a specific sequence, the door unlocks. I never got around to doing it because for some reason, my code doesn't like putting out more than a volt on the digital pins -__-
First of all to mention that I personally use Atmel studio. Now I can not see anywhere pinMode(). This function configures your pin direction if it is an input or output. Take a look at this link fix that and you are starting from something. www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/PinMode
Mario G. Oh my god... How could I forget that?! **Ultimate facepalm**. I don't like using goto, but It's the easiest way I can loop something, it's the one I understand the most. I hate using "while" and "for" loops, they confuse the hell out of me. Thank you for pointing out my obvious mistake though.
I am a electronic engineering student from india great sir keep it up I learned so many things from you Please keep uploading new project Kindly can show with arduino uno ??
As always a neat project. I was however a bit surprised to see you still using your dremel and veroboard when you have a shapeoko? Looking forward to projects that include cnc stuff for that professional finish from this channel. Keep up the good work.
I simply have no words for you. You're trully Great. Have you finished electronics in uni or..? That's not only creative and thoughtful, but also very smart. :) Nice job! :)
GreatScott! I think I will build a 2 channel one with a double clap and a triple clap in the next months! :) But I will power it via two 9V batteries in parallel and a step down converter which has an idle consumption of a few micro amps and pulse relays. :o Should last for years and when it goes dry, the appliance will be still on or off. Nothing to worry. :D
Hi GreatScott! I find your videos interesting to watch, even if I have no clue about creating circuits. After watching your video I was curious at 2 ideas. 1st Could you use the electric microphone to clap on a computer? (Integrate into power button?) Since Im guessing it doesnt need a lot to turn on. 2nd your circuit only contains one plug, could you have one with 4, each with a different number of claps? Carry on with the interesting videos! :)
+Jonas Schulz Richtig, in PEN-C Netzen spricht man teilweise auch von "earthground", weil dort ja Neutralleiter und Erde verbunden sind. Trotzdem ist "earth" in dem fall sogar richtiger als "ground", obwohl beides wohl akzeptabel ist :)
lol i never noticed that you are lefthanded Awesome ! i am lefthanded too ;D now i makes sense why you mainly draw with a penclie and not with markers or sharpie, to avoid smudgeing your drawings :D
It would help if you were consistent with the resistor values you used for the project. The first circuit you showed at 1:40 sets a quiescent bias point around 1/3 of the supply rail (i.e. 1.67V) not the 2.5V you show on the 'scope. I appreciate that you actually want to bias the quiescent point closer to the negative rail to maximise the swing since the opamp can't swing to the positive rail, but you need to explain that, not leave folks with the false impression that a 20K : 10K resistor divider will give 2.5V. It won't.
Thank you, I tried doing my own sound activated project (Didn't care too much about double clap), but the problem I had was the microphone being very insensitive. Some times I could get it to register with what I considered a tiny noise some times I would do a loud noise and it would barely register. I am hoping using the amp that you suggested will help.
Hi Greatscott, nice video! I was wondering what components would have to be replaced for the project to switch on/off AC appliances which require high power around 1000W?
Hi Scott, I like your tutorials and have hope that you will maybe do one about an LDR circuit that can clamp the LDR resistance to a transistor so that there will not be flickering of the lights output from the BT136, please advise and have a great one!!!
I am a little concerned that both sides of the AC are not relay switched. I note that GS says don't be stupid so I would amend this design in two important ways: 1) Add a second relay for the other AC line and 2) add low current fuses to each side the AC lines so that the clap device cannot be overloaded. You would not want to connect a 3kW heater to this!
Hi GreatScrott!, nice project.... I was wondering, couldn't you use the mic voltage burst to activate an interruption, and thus keeping the IC sleeping until awaken by the interruption from the first clap ?
Gutes Video! Allerdings gefällt mir der 230V Teil garnicht ! 1. Die Leiterbahnen der Platine sind für hohe Ströme bei Netzspannung zu dünn ! 2. Dein Relai ist für 125V und 1A also deutlich zu klein ! 230V sind zuviel für das Relai ! Ausserdem wird es bei 230V auf ca. 0,5A maximale Last begrenzt sein (wenn wir davon ausgehen das es sonst dafür geeignet ist) ! Das sind nur knapp 115 Watt ! 3. Es fehlt die Sicherung, da die Komponenten für 16A (Absicherung normaler Steckdosen) nicht geeignet sind... wenn jemand auf die idee kommt damit seinen Heizlüfter o.ä. zu schalten wirds gefährlich! Ein anderes Relai sowie eine Sicherung halte ich hier schon für nötig :)
DJSanTec 1. It's not made for high currents (the project) 2. It is rated for 220V AC maximum. Through tolerances 230V AC is ok (not ideal) (check the datasheet) 3. True. But it would be great if you could write your comment in english. So everyone could understand it.
+GreatScott! Sorry, did Not look at the datasheet. In my oppinion you should give a value for the Max. current (and fuse it to prevent anyone to exceed the Limit). Not everyone knows that much about electricity ;)
5:51 Nope nope nope! You've got 230V coming into that stripboard and the trace right next to it is the 5V side. I'd mount the relay off the board. Also, I bet you could get away without the amp. Your quoted 5 mV figure is when the ADC uses 5V as the reference. I think those can use a smaller voltage for the ADC full-scale, giving a smaller step size. Even with 5 mV and 40 steps, software should be able to clean that up sufficiently. More coding and trial-and-error though.
![Summer Walker - Heart Of A Woman [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SFddctbZzw8/mqdefault.jpg)
Great project! Will definitely have to try this out sometime.
OMG, I NEVER NEW YOU WATCHED GREAT SCOTT, IM A HUGE FAN OF YOU AND GREAT SCOTT, sorry for capitals
DIY Perks Make a video of your project!
DIY Perks Hey. Make it battery powered using pulsed relays. Also try to make a two channel one for clapping two times for channel one and three times for channel two. Using (expensive) beefy relais may allow you to put on power strips for multiple appliances!
***** ... Batterypowerd?
a batterpowered mains switch, so you can turn of your charger that charges the batteries for your clap-switch?
now i see why you need two channels...
dicky dicky
Totally wrong! The conversion of 250 Volts into 5 Volts using even a switching PSU is much more inefficient as just taking two 9V batteries and use pulse relays. So the circuit does only draw very low power to power the micro and only when a switching impulse is sent the relay is used. The batteries would last for at least one year and batteries are pretty cheap in germany. I could also use 6 AAA eneloops and recharge them EXTERNALLY. It's much better than permanently have a PSU on the mains... I just do not like it to do so! We pay 30 Euro-Cents each fucking KWh in fucking Germany! Congrats for almost free electricity in USA...
"you can touch 230v directly if you act stupid."
"Don't act stupid."
i was watching the video and i read this when he told it LOL
I am Iverol same
Please never stop making videos I'll never stop liking and supporting :)
Just don't watch any awards ceremonies or ur lights will go insane
@Thulium The neighbors noticing the lights blinking: Oh, they must be banging again!
lol
@Thulium #Cursedcoments xD
🤣🤣🤣
It is because of stuff like this why I'm starting to teach myself about coding and programming and also learning about all the different hardware and what it does. I ordered a raspberry pi to learn coding on and eventually I can add components to the pi so I can learn more about the hardware side of things. I'm sure it will take me quite awhile to learn all of this but my goal is to be able to create things like this guy. It's amazing!
Gotta say, I'm loving the videos! High quality and great explaining! I've actually learnt quite alot!
Wieder ein super Video! Macht wirklich Spaß deine vids zu schauen und ich habe echt Lust deine Projekte selbst auszuprobieren. Was ich besonders Klasse finde: Du erklärst nicht nur wie man es baut, sondern gibst dazu noch elektrotechnisches Wissen an uns weiter! Mach weiter so!
110freestyler Thanks mate ;-)
110freestyler Ich kann eigendlich nur das Gleiche sagen :D
110freestyler Gleiche Meinung / Same opinion :)
110freestyler BRATWURST
Nameless Croissant, BIER!
Made it myself!!! I found on tindie (searc: All ATtiny Arduino programmer shield) - which simplify the tiny programming the bonus is that it can easily hook the tiny micros....
This really does work nicely, congratulations for another excellent instructional video.
I would like to add a very quick note about the circuit diagram. I made the mistake of wiring the output of the ATtiny85 as per the diagram which shows pin 2 and not pin 7.
Only after this did I look at the datasheet pinout, and see D2 is pin 7.
This is here to assist others who made the same error as me but look here for an answer.
Love your videos😊
100k Subscribers!!! Great Job Man!
+MrMitche Mitchell Thanks
Oh man! I like how you explained everything!! Much better than other videos that are just "do this do that and viola"
Thanks. I am going to keep it that way ;-)
Just discovered your channel. even u hardly am ever able to make these kind of stuff I've always loved these kind of electronic project channels keep it up
Just discovered your channel. even u hardly am ever able to make these kind of stuff I've always loved these kind of electronic project channels keep it up
should i clap for this awesome tutorial or will your lamp turn off? xD
Awesome as always.
bruce wayne Your Pc or device you're using to RUclips will turn off.... #TROLL
Rian Botha somebody got sand in their vagina..
+bruce wayne wtf
Julian Fernandez Barcellona it was a joke to rian's comment on my first comment.If you watch south park you will get it.
bruce wayne It was a VERY vulgar joke....
Great job mate. I suppose you can add 3 and 4 claps switches depending on the timing and the number of claps right? Now THAT would be even more catchy!
Sure
Theo papa thats my aim, can u help me on achieve that ?
Nic Brain if you can achieve the first step, which is the 1 clap then you can do the resrt.You just need an oscilloscope for that, something that i dont have. But the idea is measure the timing with the oscilloscope and put according delays on the arduino code.
Theo papa thanks for the fast reply . Because am a beginner On this arduino coding and stuffs iT makes things kinda harder . I dont know maybe u can help me make this code ? My aim is to turn different appliances On with different number of claps. For example 2 clap to turn a pc On and 3 clap to turn the tv On
i am afraid you should relax and start as everyone does. From simple stuff. Start by learning the basic commands and achieve manipulation of leds, stepper motors and then lcd screens. You ll gain experience this way. Controling high power devices like the ones you want require solid understanding of coding and most importantly of risks of electricity. So you d better take it slow.
Amazing, I was impressed when I connected my headphones to the output of the NE5534, the amplified sound was very clear and clean
GScott made a low noise amplifier, as always make clean projects with pros n cons well explained in short time, pretty like Andreas Spies...
Always a pleasure watching your posts. Well done
You deserve more subscribers dude. Awesome videos
+EveryLittlePixel Thanks mate ;-)
Ooooh! Now attach it to a power strip to turn on multiple things at once!
Love your videos! So addictive.
ThankYou , you were my inspiration for my new channel!!! Love Your Videos !
This is the best frickin channel ever
i love your accent cus.
everytime i use heatshrink i think "termal tshrinking ishulatoooooor".
i love your work, you help me understand shit other people make really complicated.
Great project as always! It would be great to turn on different devices with different clap patterns... oh the possibilities!
I remember I built a clap switch with "one clap on, two clap off" feature 7 years ago. I used the output of my mic preamplifier (a simple transistor stage) and fed it to a monostable stage wired around IC555. the output clocked a decade counter (CD4017) and the second bit triggered a JK flip-flop for latching the output. It's amazing how a tiny MCU can reduce the part count so much! :)
!!Excellente
GScott made a low noise amplifier, as always make clean projects with pros n cons well explained in short time, pretty like Andreas Spies...
Another great tutorial. I almost always learn something new in addition to what the tutorial is about. Thanks GS.
I dont know why am i watching your videos, i dont understand electricity, im stupid at programming, i have no idea what are you doing, but i just love your videos, your inventions and voice :D have a nice day mate :D
when you really use your creativity you can alot of things. and one those could be like this one. Nice One Man!
Ich wünschte ich hätte dein wissen über elektroik. Ich finds einfach nur richtig genial was du baust und zusammen stellst dickes lob !
Hey just a quick side note, I noticed that that relay was rated 125 volts. However it's always a good idea to use a relay rated twice the voltage you put through it. For example if you use 120 volts then use a 240 volt rated relay, if you use 240 volts then use a 480 volt relay. It will greatly reduce the risk of arcing and will be a lot safer.
love all ur videos, never stop
I tried this and everytime i watch meme review my lights turn off🙄
Danke wieder einmal ein super cooles Video ;)
Wow i am really impressed with this project...u did a good job man, keep up the good work! 😉
*clap clap*
M e m e r e v i e w
Clap On, Clap Off, clap on clap off, the clapper! I had one of these in the 80's
GreatScott! You really need to expand this, add more output and clap patterns.
wow, great scott really is great😉
Cool project! Must try this
fantastic video man. I just gotta build this next! I have a room and the light switch is on the far wall away from the door. I always curse bumping into things to get to the switch. I bring a torch but this is sooo much better
Hi great Scott I like your page so much you upload very interesting project and electronic basics you help me so much thanks
Wow.... man you are very very very dedicated.
I already feel for you when you will catch cold and keep coughing :D
Hahahaha lol
This is really cool, and actually quite close to something I was trying to do not long ago. I wanted to fit a lock to my front door and drill a small hole for a LDR, and use a momentary flashlight as a "clap". If you flash a specific sequence, the door unlocks. I never got around to doing it because for some reason, my code doesn't like putting out more than a volt on the digital pins -__-
Jordan O'C did you set the pins as output?
Mario G. I did. I've put my code on pastebin if you want to have a look over it and tell me how shit my programming is XD. pastebin.com/cid9diZP
First of all to mention that I personally use Atmel studio. Now I can not see anywhere pinMode(). This function configures your pin direction if it is an input or output. Take a look at this link fix that and you are starting from something.
www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/PinMode
And my friend please do not use goto. just never when programming on C/C++. Always you will find a way to do it with loops.
Mario G. Oh my god... How could I forget that?! **Ultimate facepalm**. I don't like using goto, but It's the easiest way I can loop something, it's the one I understand the most. I hate using "while" and "for" loops, they confuse the hell out of me. Thank you for pointing out my obvious mistake though.
Very cool project Scott
Hammer geil! Ich brauch sowas :D
I am a electronic engineering student from india great sir keep it up
I learned so many things from you
Please keep uploading new project
Kindly can show with arduino uno
??
Happy 100.035 subscribers!
Your channel name literally is my reaction
As always a neat project. I was however a bit surprised to see you still using your dremel and veroboard when you have a shapeoko? Looking forward to projects that include cnc stuff for that professional finish from this channel. Keep up the good work.
turning my pc on with 2 claps and open programs with cortana. love it
I simply have no words for you. You're trully Great. Have you finished electronics in uni or..? That's not only creative and thoughtful, but also very smart. :) Nice job! :)
wieder sehr gelungenes Video! sehr nice
amazing project as usual.
Maybe i ll try to use it some time... :) thank you!
Carlos PECHIR You're welcome
GreatScott! are there any Abacom Lochmaster files for that project? Is there a milled pcb of that project, since you have the X-carve ...
GreatScott! I think I will build a 2 channel one with a double clap and a triple clap in the next months! :) But I will power it via two 9V batteries in parallel and a step down converter which has an idle consumption of a few micro amps and pulse relays. :o Should last for years and when it goes dry, the appliance will be still on or off. Nothing to worry. :D
This man made a clap on clap off thing
Great video man ! You are awesome.
Gratz on 100k!!!!!
Great project, This is a thing i want in my house hahah :D
Loved it! Thanks
Awesome videos!
Thanks a Lot for making such educative videos!
You're amazing
i folow you on instructable and i addict of your vidéo!!!!
this was uploaded in my birthday😂
great scoot you should connect a fan when your chilling and when you want it on just clap that would be great
Nearly 100k Scott
really cool project!
Geil! Werd ich mir als nächstes Projekt mal vornehmen es gibt keine coolere Methode sein Licht anzuschalten als durch Klatschen! :D
You could save space by replacing the Output with a short extenstion cord ( the end) :)
Awesome, informative video as always!
Hi GreatScott! I find your videos interesting to watch, even if I have no clue about creating circuits. After watching your video I was curious at 2 ideas. 1st Could you use the electric microphone to clap on a computer? (Integrate into power button?) Since Im guessing it doesnt need a lot to turn on. 2nd your circuit only contains one plug, could you have one with 4, each with a different number of claps?
Carry on with the interesting videos! :)
excellent explanation I got the idea now but you did before me
Super Anleitung! Danke dafür! Noch eine kleine Verbesserung: Erdung heißt auf Englisch nicht "Earth" sondern "Ground" ;)
Earth und Ground sind genau genommen nicht das gleiche. Der neutral Leiter ist Ground und Earth ist tatsächlich das Erdpotential
+Jonas Schulz Richtig, in PEN-C Netzen spricht man teilweise auch von "earthground", weil dort ja Neutralleiter und Erde verbunden sind. Trotzdem ist "earth" in dem fall sogar richtiger als "ground", obwohl beides wohl akzeptabel ist :)
"So dont be stupid.."
Haha that was great, scott.
Hi GreatScott! Do I need to use an arduino? Or can make the circuit without?
lol i never noticed that you are lefthanded Awesome ! i am lefthanded too ;D now i makes sense why you mainly draw with a penclie and not with markers or sharpie, to avoid smudgeing your drawings :D
Raffy611 Correct
It would help if you were consistent with the resistor values you used for the project. The first circuit you showed at 1:40 sets a quiescent bias point around 1/3 of the supply rail (i.e. 1.67V) not the 2.5V you show on the 'scope. I appreciate that you actually want to bias the quiescent point closer to the negative rail to maximise the swing since the opamp can't swing to the positive rail, but you need to explain that, not leave folks with the false impression that a 20K : 10K resistor divider will give 2.5V. It won't.
i tried this now i am dead. thanks scott
Thank you, I tried doing my own sound activated project (Didn't care too much about double clap), but the problem I had was the microphone being very insensitive. Some times I could get it to register with what I considered a tiny noise some times I would do a loud noise and it would barely register. I am hoping using the amp that you suggested will help.
This is awesomeness.
Hi Greatscott, nice video! I was wondering what components would have to be replaced for the project to switch on/off AC appliances which require high power around 1000W?
For 240v use relay for minimum 5A
Hi Scott, I like your tutorials and have hope that you will maybe do one about an LDR circuit that can clamp the LDR resistance to a transistor so that there will not be flickering of the lights output from the BT136, please advise and have a great one!!!
I am a little concerned that both sides of the AC are not relay switched. I note that GS says don't be stupid so I would amend this design in two important ways: 1) Add a second relay for the other AC line and 2) add low current fuses to each side the AC lines so that the clap device cannot be overloaded. You would not want to connect a 3kW heater to this!
I have build one year ago an Roboter with this clapping function, it works. 😂
Good job man.
From the socket you used, I assume you use 220V AC in your country but the relay you used was a 120v one
Hi GreatScrott!, nice project.... I was wondering, couldn't you use the mic voltage burst to activate an interruption, and thus keeping the IC sleeping until awaken by the interruption from the first clap ?
What if you scream 2 times? :D
*****
Then the lamp would be screaming
+maxellnormalbias then you would get turned on
+maxellnormalbias #paradox
It totally works. I made one of these for the school project and I could turn it on and off with any sound.
@@macieczek2 russia
wow extremely fantastic very very very nice
"Potentiometer " captions: charmander, literally that's what it says
Gutes Video!
Allerdings gefällt mir der 230V Teil garnicht !
1. Die Leiterbahnen der Platine sind für hohe Ströme bei Netzspannung zu dünn !
2. Dein Relai ist für 125V und 1A also deutlich zu klein ! 230V sind zuviel für das Relai ! Ausserdem wird es bei 230V auf ca. 0,5A maximale Last begrenzt sein (wenn wir davon ausgehen das es sonst dafür geeignet ist) ! Das sind nur knapp 115 Watt !
3. Es fehlt die Sicherung, da die Komponenten für 16A (Absicherung normaler Steckdosen) nicht geeignet sind... wenn jemand auf die idee kommt damit seinen Heizlüfter o.ä. zu schalten wirds gefährlich!
Ein anderes Relai sowie eine Sicherung halte ich hier schon für nötig :)
DJSanTec 1. It's not made for high currents (the project) 2. It is rated for 220V AC maximum. Through tolerances 230V AC is ok (not ideal) (check the datasheet) 3. True. But it would be great if you could write your comment in english. So everyone could understand it.
+GreatScott!
Sorry, did Not look at the datasheet. In my oppinion you should give a value for the Max. current (and fuse it to prevent anyone to exceed the Limit). Not everyone knows that much about electricity ;)
DJSanTec Yes I should. I will soon add it to the description. Thanks ;-)
Portugal on that chip!
Das muss ich unbedingt nachbauen :D
"It is possible to touch 240 volts directly, if you are stupid, so, don't be stupid" - LOL--classic!
6:00 Genius
Love your Videos..
buying The Clapper would make you look lazy, but making one makes you just plain cool... great tutorial.
huckleberry582 Thanks mate ;-)
+GreatScott! I can see this becoming useful in some way on an arduino robot. Keep up the good work.
nice work sir... Sir may use this video for my project study... "automated electric fan"
Hello sir i was just curious, instead of arduino could we use a monostable circuit (my teacher told me) . Great video btw sir :)
I NEED THIS! And its cheap! *buying stuff online*
Where did you get the pcb with the lines of copper, I have never seen it before. Good video!
briliant
5:51 Nope nope nope! You've got 230V coming into that stripboard and the trace right next to it is the 5V side. I'd mount the relay off the board.
Also, I bet you could get away without the amp. Your quoted 5 mV figure is when the ADC uses 5V as the reference. I think those can use a smaller voltage for the ADC full-scale, giving a smaller step size. Even with 5 mV and 40 steps, software should be able to clean that up sufficiently. More coding and trial-and-error though.