Some of us appreciate a calm in depth detailed project assessment. No marketing hype, no express speed marketing, only thoughtful assessment for people who want to learn. Please continue being the antidote to drama.
I hit like after the opening statement. Please do keep the detailed content. Yes there's a place for short sharp skits, but they come at the cost of little meaningful content. I liken them to fast foods - short term satisfaction, addictive, and have little nutritional value. Channels like yours feed the brain, and it only takes a look at the comments section to see that there are like minded viewers who are both learning from, and are invested in the whole affair. Unboxing's might be popular, but are they really necessary? Keep on doing what you are doing James, I know I'm not alone in my appreciation of your efforts.
I don't want to stroke your ego too much, but you're a natural teacher. I always shoot spitwads at the screen when I'm watching RUclips, but I stop when you're on... also, I can't wait to see the final product! I think that's the problem with some of the comments that you're seeing. I think it's less about subject and pace than that they want this thing last week. Keep up the good work.
Regardless of the adage that "one size fits all", we DO have different "size's". Thus, James "fits to a glove" what my "size" is. So as for me he is what fits what I want. Others may have other "size's. To each his own. Thank you dear Sir.
Honestly I prefer the detail and thought process you include, and there truly are enough whiz-bang flashy videos where 2 weeks of work is condensed into 5 minutes. People who truly want to learn appreciate explanations. Also, I'd never heard of the POGO pins until this video so, well, I learned something, lol!
Please continue to provide detailed videos that allow folks like myself to learn new things. While I am familiar with some aspects of this particular project and might dial up the playback speed a bit, the majority of the project is completely new to me. Your thorough approach makes it a joy to learn, and I thank you for all the work and time you invest in producing content that stands out due to the attention to detail. In the age of TikTok and instant gratification, your videos are a much appreciated alternative.
I agree with you about the amount of detail in videos being very important. I appreciate you including these details, and I also feel that I learn a lot more this way. Others who leave out the details don't realize that for someone to build their projects these details are necessary, and take for granted that all their viewers understand everything they are trying to convey. It's one thing to create something from your own vision because you can see clearly what you want that to be, but more difficult to create something from someone elses vision because it's not as clear and you can't see inside that persons head. Thanks for all you do.
Hi James, oh, yes, I agree with those below who want/need to see the detail. I intend buying the kit, I want to know it's a well thought out and well tested quality product! I get very frustrated with channels that just show the end result, not the nitty gritty of how to get there. I know time is short for some people but this is highly educational information being delived by a very good presenter. Keep doing what you are doing. BobUK.
James I have been an electronics engineer for more years than I care to admit to, and I’m usually familiar with about 99% of what you show in your videos. However I watch them because they are well paced, interesting, varied, and most importantly I usually learn that 1% that I didn’t know! So keep up the good work.
I like the format the way it is. This gives us a good view of all things you do during development. But this also gives us the opportunity to comment on your work. Writing that ... looking at the use of the pogo pins I have a remark about soldering them. These pins are meant to be used in sleeves. These sleeves are pressed in a board (we mostly use Trespa) and either soldered directly to the PCB underneath or using wires. This way there is no risk of damaging the pogo pins during mounting and you can easily replace pogo pins when they get damaged. But hey - it works for you and for a small batch (and I mean less than a few 1000 pieces) this is good enough.
Don't stop the detail. You are correct in that some of us really want to understand. I have wanted to do the power feed to my old Craftsman 109 lathe for years but lacked the info and skill to design the system. I am really glad you did.
A big part of the reason I keep eagerly coming back to your channel *is because* of the tremendous level of detail and thoroughness. Keep up the great work! You're an inspiration.
Your pace is fine, don't change it! Have to love auto/semi-auto testing. Not only do you have to check the device under test but the test fixture as well! As a former (40 years now) USAF avionics guy, I think you're doing a great job on this project!
I can't believe that some people want a fast pace "look what I can do" style, I think your content and pace is perfect. I have every intent of building one of these some day and the last thing I want is to miss something important just because the video is getting near 10 minutes long! Keep up the good work ....the pace is perfect and most of all, thank you for all the time and effort you have put into this.👍
I think the level of detail on your channel is perfect for those of us who actually want to learn and build things. I’m thinking about a variant of your electronic lead screw that could work for both automated manual mode, and also accept a stepper motor input signal from a CNC program, like say Linux CNC. Basically have a mode on the ELS to make it look like a stepper (or servo motor), and have it pass the stepper signal from the CNC through to the stepper drive motor. Another idea is Maybe also replace the guts Of the carriage with a rotary encoder, and use that input to drive a ball screw, basically replace both the lead screw, rack, pinion with a single ball screw, but encoders to accept manual input so the lathe can be use in manual mode.
I’m only a fairly new subscriber to your channel and it is fast becoming one of my favourite channels ! I like the in depth tutorials and that you thoroughly explain what you are doing as i watch RUclips videos because i want to learn something ! I really hate it when i want to learn about something and i find video on the subject but after watching a few seconds of the video realise that it is just another one of those stupid videos that show someone doing something and drown out everything with crap music . If your lucky you get the occasional subtitle and if you are really fortunate you manage to hit the stop button before any mental scarring can occur ! Keep up the good work and please don’t change a thing with your channel !
Couldn't appreciate your approach to creating content more. You are the only creator I have found on RUclips (and anywhere else for that matter) to create such well-documented, highly detailed and fascinating videos. I routinely find myself trying to find someone else who comes even close to you (to fill in the gaps after I instantly binge your weekly videos).
Hi James. I Love the vids and the project. In a previous life I designed functional test equipment for PCB manufacturing. I have designed a bunch of pogo fixtures like you are building there. I have two suggestions. First, as another commentor already pointed out, aligning the PCB with the fixture is a lot easier if you have guide pins that catch alignment holes (often just the mounting holes) in the PCB and force the PCB under test to be co-planar with the bed of nails. Second, most pogo pins are not meant to be soldered in place directly. They are generally installed into sockets. The sockets have soldertails on them that are designed to be soldered into a PCB. We used to press the sockets into a delrin block and then solder the test PCB right to it. That way the pins are fixed in place rigidly. This method also has the advantage that pin replacement is very easy. Keep up the good work.
This is awesome!!! I love the whole project, from theoretical framework, to coding, to mechanics, to calculations, to 3D printing, to fixing problems, to PCB implementation, to practical concerns -- it's all fantastic! It's the whole shebang! Keep it up, man.
I love your videos the way they are. Personally i think the high detail educational path you have taken is far better than the flashy pure entertainment condensed for short attention spans.
Don't try to be like the others, keep producing your videos in your style. I'm sure I'm not the only one here because I like the way you produce, narrate, teach, and the level of detail in your videos!
Enjoying the videos, just waiting to see al of them and see if I can joint the people that will get the "kit" for my Lathe, great info and extremely well done videos.
I also like the way you present your video's. I may not understand everything that's being said or done but also's get something useful. also what sort of people gave this video a thumbs down
i was going to suggest gel flux and more of it and then you did it. it was great. i also learned that there's a water wash flux. i'll be using that from now on
Pogo pins (being all metal) will wick the heat away from the joint. Notice at 11:53 and forward how the solder is "following" the iron tip. This means the tip is getting cold. The added flux helps break the surface tension.
I love to learn stuff properly, and really detest that flashy affectation based market of so many RUclipsrs who shout at me without a single useful thing to say. You're channels awesome! no need to change your video structure at all!
I would love to see your take on a DIY reflow oven. I know it has been done to death elsewhere but I feel your detail videos would bring a whole lot more to the table. I love your blending of different disciplines.
I, for one, fully endorse and appreciate your approach to providing intelligent content complete with the how and why behind the project. Don't feel obliged to change a thing.
I think the pace is great. Lots of information to pass along and it takes time. I designed and built a number of "Bed of Nails" test fixtures in my career. I always used sockets for the pogo pins. It made changing a dirty or sticking pin much easier. The sockets had a shoulder to set the height above the board. There were multiple options for the pin height by selecting the correct socket.
Soldering the pins directly could interfere with the spring. Pogo pins are supposed to be inserted into an available brass sleeve that is soldered to the board. The sleeves will also allow easy replacement of bent pins quickly by the operator.
I was about to say this myself the pins dont have a good coating to solder to but the sockets for them do, the sockets also have indexing ridge at the right height to drop into a pcb. One other thing turn the heat up on the iron your first solder looked to me to be about 15degC too cold. and +1 for the tacky flux i sue it on everything and it makes life a lot easier.
I've occasionally seen comments that there are holders for pogo pins, that you're not supposed to solder directly to them since they have a limited service life. I've never actually seen the holders, just heard of them. Maybe they're only sold to RUclips pedantic commenters 😉 The multiple pcb stack technique is definitely the way to go for holding those pogo pins, though. It offends my inner cheapskate (multiple pcbs, only one of which is used for electrical purposes? Perish the thought!) but even with proto boards it helps. Awesome stuff! I'll be really bummed when I've run through all your back catalog...
I know nothing about electronics and very little about metal lathes and lead screws but this video series is brilliant. Very informative, well put together and really entertaining as well as highly interesting, thanks very much
I'm with you 100% mate. I love to learn and if you love to teach then I love to listen. Thank you for taking the time to do what you do. Terrific job James, as always. Please don't change a thing.
As usual, you have taught me some things that I did not know or was only partially aware of. I really like your channel because you always teach me something, not just show me something. One important thing for me, as a senior on a fixed income, I pretty much need to budget, in advance, most purchases so it would be helpful to have a general idea as to the pricing of your board. I have all of the other parts required for this project and am only waiting on this final piece. Most months, my monthly "fun money" is pretty much gone by the 15th of the month, regardless of my best intentions. Too many projects, not enough funds. As a final thought, I would be happy to do my own soldering of the finish parts on the board. Receiving it as a kit would be just fine as I have a lifetimes worth of soldering experience and time on my hands.
YES!!! Thankyou for your preamble at the start of the video; we are here for the learning and the detail! Thankyou also for that lesson in seating pogo pins and height adjusting - I've made pogo pin rigs before, but I'd never worked out how to get the heights right - or considered mating certain connections in sequence!
Good job done. I remember 20 years ago ,when using logo pins for testing microprocessor is a 'company top secret art' .Now every electronic engineer must know and 'open source' that can can be discuss through RUclips .
@Clough42: your pacing and information density is awesome. You must spend immense time preparing your videos or be excellent at giving impromptu talks, as I never ever felt bored by your videos. And you always demonstrate that you understand everything you talk about, what sadly many channels don't do and just wing it. Keep up your great work!
Very well done video, and your boards look very professionally done. JLCPCB has done a very good job in the board development. I have been designing and developing my own boards for years and I prefer to use a service like what JLCPCB does. Too bad we do not have that service in the US with the same prices.
Thank you so much for the videos you do and all of the detail. I am considering building a lathe. And the one big downside was going to be not being able to do threading. But this has piqued my interest again and given me a lot of great information. This is a wonderful learning tool. Thank you so much.
I'm loving this series of videos they are some of the best I've ever seen on RUclips. I can't wait to find a good lathe to apply this project to since I've been wanting to set up a home machine shop for several years. I've been working in electronic manufacturing for over 30-years and I have some experience with soldering to gold and platinum they don't oxidize because they don't react to almost anything and that is the problem you are having soldering the gold. Copper, beryllium, tin, and lead all react easily so all you have to do is keep out the oxygen to prevent oxides that stop solder wetting and that is what no-clean flux does but when you are soldering to precious metals you need to go old school and use a flux that forces a reaction that means acid and that also means you'll have to clean after or the acid will eventually eat your circuit board. We use RA flux and solder with an RA flux core to achieve a good result with precious metals and we water clean those fluxes off.
Personally I love your presentations. Please don't change a thing. I hate it when I search for a "how to" video and only get a glossed over "look what I did" video with no "how to" in it. It's a complete waste of my time. Luv your vids buddy! Again, please keep it up!
I've had some experience with pogo pin test fixtures for a Marconi ATE. You're heading in the right direction but you need a mechanism to hold the board under test onto the pins. Our usual mechanism was vacuum as that ensured equal pressure over the board but then that adds complexity and constraints to the board under test's design.One thing for sure, you need a programmable purpose built test system. We'd never start by putting power to the board under test. First phase was testing as many components as possible for correct value and orientation etc. then via programmable power supplies start to power the board up.
Very nice fixture design. I have one suggestion: add a couple of alignment pins that go through the mounting holes in two opposite corners of the DUT. I would use some finishing nails, with the points filed round so they aren't too sharp. Just put a nail in a small drill press, like a drill bit, put an unstuffed DUT board on the fixture to act as a guide, then melt the nail into your 3D-printed frame by spinning. I find that it also helps to make score lines on the part of the nail that will be melted into the plastic, to make it harder to pull out. If the mounting holes on the DUT are plated and grounded (I haven't watched the prev videos on this project) then the guide pins could also be grounded to give you the first-contact that you are presently doing by raising one pogo pin higher.
i would think the pogo pins drawing the heat away from the joint is also an issue, so maybe heat the pin a bit, then the pin and the pad, then apply the solder?
This is the first of your videos I have seen. I'm only at 3:08 and it is wonderful. Your video is such a welcome change from the many "fast-forward" or "noise-overlay" videos. I don't know IF that your whole series will be useful to me, but even 1/7 of this video has been quite wonderful to watch and hear. Btw, we don't need to know that you already opened the box. Although it may explain why the bundles weren't taped shut.
Try some Kester 2331-ZX on those pogo pins. I also usually have to turn my heat up a little bit because of the additional mass sucking the heat right out of the tip. I agree with everyone else about your content. There's plenty of Colin Furzes out there. I appreciate content without all the attention grabbing nonsense
James; Don't change the detail. I've always been interested more in the details. I never got into the design process and it has interested me for a long time.
Hi James, I just want to begin by letting you know that I’ve really been enjoying watching your channel. I know that you’re in the process of making/testing your z-axis electronic leadscrew project, but I wanted to ask if you had thought of a future project that advances on this by also including an x-axis leadscrew control? I’ve recently begun working in a shop with lathes that have this feature. These lathes can be used as manual machines, but also as CNC lathes, that allow you to create arcs, chamfers and more complicated shapes by ‘drawing’ your design (on a DRO/computer) with the x- and z-axes working together to form these shapes. I’m not sure how difficult this system would be to create, however, I can say that these ‘hybrid’ manual/CNC lathes are fantastic to use, open many opportunities and would be a fantastic extension on what you are currently doing. Regardless of if you went in this direction or not, please keep up the style of content that you offer as it’s great to watch. Best wishes, Rob.
I like the way you present your content. There are to many times I am looking for a how to do something, just to find an I did this video. Keep doing what you do. Don't change it. And the quality is great. Well on second thought...... You can make more and longer videos on a bunch more topics, I'll send you a list........... Just kidding. Love the channel.
The button which was included in the box is something that I find in many shipments from China. I think this is their idea about fostering public relationship.
Water wash ... do you just scrub it under running water and then dry it off? I am another who appreciates the length and detail of your videos, thank you!
Some of us appreciate a calm in depth detailed project assessment. No marketing hype, no express speed marketing, only thoughtful assessment for people who want to learn. Please continue being the antidote to drama.
The quality and content of your channel is perfect. you dont need to change anything. Well done James!
I'll second that
Thanks!
I agree with this
I agree, I watch these to learn, Thanks for taking the time to explain.
Totally agree, great pace, great clarity, perfect!
you provide many "ah ha!" moments that those other channels tend to skip or even create. Keep up the valued content.
I hit like after the opening statement. Please do keep the detailed content. Yes there's a place for short sharp skits, but they come at the cost of little meaningful content. I liken them to fast foods - short term satisfaction, addictive, and have little nutritional value. Channels like yours feed the brain, and it only takes a look at the comments section to see that there are like minded viewers who are both learning from, and are invested in the whole affair. Unboxing's might be popular, but are they really necessary? Keep on doing what you are doing James, I know I'm not alone in my appreciation of your efforts.
I don't want to stroke your ego too much, but you're a natural teacher. I always shoot spitwads at the screen when I'm watching RUclips, but I stop when you're on... also, I can't wait to see the final product! I think that's the problem with some of the comments that you're seeing. I think it's less about subject and pace than that they want this thing last week. Keep up the good work.
Regardless of the adage that "one size fits all", we DO have different "size's". Thus, James "fits to a glove" what my "size" is. So as for me he is what fits what I want. Others may have other "size's. To each his own.
Thank you dear Sir.
Honestly I prefer the detail and thought process you include, and there truly are enough whiz-bang flashy videos where 2 weeks of work is condensed into 5 minutes. People who truly want to learn appreciate explanations. Also, I'd never heard of the POGO pins until this video so, well, I learned something, lol!
Love the focus on the test jig and software; this is a critical aspect of manufacturability that is rarely shown.
And it's where a lot of the development time goes. But it pays off in reduced risk and more agility later.
Please continue to provide detailed videos that allow folks like myself to learn new things. While I am familiar with some aspects of this particular project and might dial up the playback speed a bit, the majority of the project is completely new to me. Your thorough approach makes it a joy to learn, and I thank you for all the work and time you invest in producing content that stands out due to the attention to detail. In the age of TikTok and instant gratification, your videos are a much appreciated alternative.
I agree with you about the amount of detail in videos being very important. I appreciate you including these details, and I also feel that I learn a lot more this way. Others who leave out the details don't realize that for someone to build their projects these details are necessary, and take for granted that all their viewers understand everything they are trying to convey. It's one thing to create something from your own vision because you can see clearly what you want that to be, but more difficult to create something from someone elses vision because it's not as clear and you can't see inside that persons head. Thanks for all you do.
You're welcome!
I could not agree more with your opening statement. I love the detail. You can't learn much in one or two 15 minute videos.
Hi James, oh, yes, I agree with those below who want/need to see the detail. I intend buying the kit, I want to know it's a well thought out and well tested quality product! I get very frustrated with channels that just show the end result, not the nitty gritty of how to get there. I know time is short for some people but this is highly educational information being delived by a very good presenter. Keep doing what you are doing. BobUK.
I agree with the earlier comments, I don't appreciate flashy presentation. Your pace and detail is just about perfect. Many thanks from the UK.
James I have been an electronics engineer for more years than I care to admit to, and I’m usually familiar with about 99% of what you show in your videos. However I watch them because they are well paced, interesting, varied, and most importantly I usually learn that 1% that I didn’t know! So keep up the good work.
I like the slower pace and detail. These are perfect for learning! Dont change a thing.
Like many others have said I think you have a great way of breaking down and explaining things was you go along. Keep up the great work!
I like the format the way it is. This gives us a good view of all things you do during development. But this also gives us the opportunity to comment on your work.
Writing that ... looking at the use of the pogo pins I have a remark about soldering them. These pins are meant to be used in sleeves. These sleeves are pressed in a board (we mostly use Trespa) and either soldered directly to the PCB underneath or using wires.
This way there is no risk of damaging the pogo pins during mounting and you can easily replace pogo pins when they get damaged.
But hey - it works for you and for a small batch (and I mean less than a few 1000 pieces) this is good enough.
Don't stop the detail. You are correct in that some of us really want to understand. I have wanted to do the power feed to my old Craftsman 109 lathe for years but lacked the info and skill to design the system. I am really glad you did.
A big part of the reason I keep eagerly coming back to your channel *is because* of the tremendous level of detail and thoroughness. Keep up the great work! You're an inspiration.
Your pace is fine, don't change it! Have to love auto/semi-auto testing. Not only do you have to check the device under test but the test fixture as well! As a former (40 years now) USAF avionics guy, I think you're doing a great job on this project!
I can't believe that some people want a fast pace "look what I can do" style, I think your content and pace is perfect. I have every intent of building one of these some day and the last thing I want is to miss something important just because the video is getting near 10 minutes long!
Keep up the good work ....the pace is perfect and most of all, thank you for all the time and effort you have put into this.👍
Good for you. I enjoy as much detail as possible. There is plenty of content out there for short attention spans.
I'm also in the group that like the details and actually learning.....
I think the level of detail on your channel is perfect for those of us who actually want to learn and build things.
I’m thinking about a variant of your electronic lead screw that could work for both automated manual mode, and also accept a stepper motor input signal from a CNC program, like say Linux CNC.
Basically have a mode on the ELS to make it look like a stepper (or servo motor), and have it pass the stepper signal from the CNC through to the stepper drive motor.
Another idea is Maybe also replace the guts Of the carriage with a rotary encoder, and use that input to drive a ball screw, basically replace both the lead screw, rack, pinion with a single ball screw, but encoders to accept manual input so the lathe can be use in manual mode.
I’m only a fairly new subscriber to your channel and it is fast becoming one of my favourite channels ! I like the in depth tutorials and that you thoroughly explain what you are doing as i watch RUclips videos because i want to learn something ! I really hate it when i want to learn about something and i find video on the subject but after watching a few seconds of the video realise that it is just another one of those stupid videos that show someone doing something and drown out everything with crap music . If your lucky you get the occasional subtitle and if you are really fortunate you manage to hit the stop button before any mental scarring can occur !
Keep up the good work and please don’t change a thing with your channel !
Keep rockin' the detail. This is the ONLY series I've watched that really made me think: "I could do that."
Couldn't appreciate your approach to creating content more. You are the only creator I have found on RUclips (and anywhere else for that matter) to create such well-documented, highly detailed and fascinating videos. I routinely find myself trying to find someone else who comes even close to you (to fill in the gaps after I instantly binge your weekly videos).
Hi James. I Love the vids and the project. In a previous life I designed functional test equipment for PCB manufacturing. I have designed a bunch of pogo fixtures like you are building there. I have two suggestions. First, as another commentor already pointed out, aligning the PCB with the fixture is a lot easier if you have guide pins that catch alignment holes (often just the mounting holes) in the PCB and force the PCB under test to be co-planar with the bed of nails. Second, most pogo pins are not meant to be soldered in place directly. They are generally installed into sockets. The sockets have soldertails on them that are designed to be soldered into a PCB. We used to press the sockets into a delrin block and then solder the test PCB right to it. That way the pins are fixed in place rigidly. This method also has the advantage that pin replacement is very easy.
Keep up the good work.
James do not change a thing..simple and effective. Love your videos. You are detailed without being boarding. And perfect with the 3 camera setup..
This is awesome!!! I love the whole project, from theoretical framework, to coding, to mechanics, to calculations, to 3D printing, to fixing problems, to PCB implementation, to practical concerns -- it's all fantastic! It's the whole shebang! Keep it up, man.
I love your videos the way they are. Personally i think the high detail educational path you have taken is far better than the flashy pure entertainment condensed for short attention spans.
Your presentation and pace are spot on. No changes needed. Keep up the good work.
Don't try to be like the others, keep producing your videos in your style. I'm sure I'm not the only one here because I like the way you produce, narrate, teach, and the level of detail in your videos!
I like how you work and would not change a thing on the channel. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Enjoying the videos, just waiting to see al of them and see if I can joint the people that will get the "kit" for my Lathe, great info and extremely well done videos.
I also like the way you present your video's. I may not understand everything that's being said or done but also's get something useful. also what sort of people gave this video a thumbs down
i was going to suggest gel flux and more of it and then you did it. it was great. i also learned that there's a water wash flux. i'll be using that from now on
Pogo pins (being all metal) will wick the heat away from the joint.
Notice at 11:53 and forward how the solder is "following" the iron tip.
This means the tip is getting cold. The added flux helps break the surface tension.
I love to learn stuff properly, and really detest that flashy affectation based market of so many RUclipsrs who shout at me without a single useful thing to say. You're channels awesome! no need to change your video structure at all!
I would love to see your take on a DIY reflow oven. I know it has been done to death elsewhere but I feel your detail videos would bring a whole lot more to the table. I love your blending of different disciplines.
I, for one, fully endorse and appreciate your approach to providing intelligent content complete with the how and why behind the project. Don't feel obliged to change a thing.
I think the pace is great. Lots of information to pass along and it takes time.
I designed and built a number of "Bed of Nails" test fixtures in my career. I always used sockets for the pogo pins. It made changing a dirty or sticking pin much easier. The sockets had a shoulder to set the height above the board. There were multiple options for the pin height by selecting the correct socket.
Soldering the pins directly could interfere with the spring.
Pogo pins are supposed to be inserted into an available brass sleeve that is soldered to the board.
The sleeves will also allow easy replacement of bent pins quickly by the operator.
I was about to say this myself the pins dont have a good coating to solder to but the sockets for them do, the sockets also have indexing ridge at the right height to drop into a pcb.
One other thing turn the heat up on the iron your first solder looked to me to be about 15degC too cold. and +1 for the tacky flux i sue it on everything and it makes life a lot easier.
I've occasionally seen comments that there are holders for pogo pins, that you're not supposed to solder directly to them since they have a limited service life. I've never actually seen the holders, just heard of them. Maybe they're only sold to RUclips pedantic commenters 😉
The multiple pcb stack technique is definitely the way to go for holding those pogo pins, though. It offends my inner cheapskate (multiple pcbs, only one of which is used for electrical purposes? Perish the thought!) but even with proto boards it helps.
Awesome stuff! I'll be really bummed when I've run through all your back catalog...
I know nothing about electronics and very little about metal lathes and lead screws but this video series is brilliant. Very informative, well put together and really entertaining as well as highly interesting, thanks very much
I'm with you 100% mate. I love to learn and if you love to teach then I love to listen.
Thank you for taking the time to do what you do. Terrific job James, as always. Please don't change a thing.
As usual, you have taught me some things that I did not know or was only partially aware of.
I really like your channel because you always teach me something, not just show me something. One important thing for me, as a senior on a fixed income, I pretty much need to budget, in advance, most purchases so it would be helpful to have a general idea as to the pricing of your board. I have all of the other parts required for this project and am only waiting on this final piece. Most months, my monthly "fun money" is pretty much gone by the 15th of the month, regardless of my best intentions. Too many projects, not enough funds. As a final thought, I would be happy to do my own soldering of the finish parts on the board. Receiving it as a kit would be just fine as I have a lifetimes worth of soldering experience and time on my hands.
YES!!! Thankyou for your preamble at the start of the video; we are here for the learning and the detail!
Thankyou also for that lesson in seating pogo pins and height adjusting - I've made pogo pin rigs before, but I'd never worked out how to get the heights right - or considered mating certain connections in sequence!
Your content very good and very detailed. Enjoyed. Great project and that you are willing to share.
Good job done. I remember 20 years ago ,when using logo pins for testing microprocessor is a 'company top secret art' .Now every electronic engineer must know and 'open source' that can can be discuss through RUclips .
I really appreciate the amount of detail you give. Thanks for making videos.
The quality and content of your channel is perfect..... you dont need to change anything
Details! Details are good. Your pacing is fine.
@Clough42: your pacing and information density is awesome. You must spend immense time preparing your videos or be excellent at giving impromptu talks, as I never ever felt bored by your videos. And you always demonstrate that you understand everything you talk about, what sadly many channels don't do and just wing it. Keep up your great work!
Watched part 13 first time on your channel. Watched several in lead screw series subscribed thanks
I like the level of detail, no need to change anything.
100% agree with your thoughts on quality and content
Don’t change. Your videos are very well done, and easy to watch even with highly technical content.
Really like the format and the level of detail you're sharing with us. No need to change at all!
I appreciate the level of detail in your videos. Keep up the good work.
Please keep up the detail. I do not watch th fast pace highly edited channels. Thanks for the videos.
Enjoying this whole sires so much. Came for the lead screw. Stayed for all the rest of your content. I love your attention to detail. Thankyou
Very well done video, and your boards look very professionally done. JLCPCB has done a very good job in the board development. I have been designing and developing my own boards for years and I prefer to use a service like what JLCPCB does. Too bad we do not have that service in the US with the same prices.
Thank you so much for the videos you do and all of the detail. I am considering building a lathe. And the one big downside was going to be not being able to do threading. But this has piqued my interest again and given me a lot of great information. This is a wonderful learning tool. Thank you so much.
I'm loving this series of videos they are some of the best I've ever seen on RUclips. I can't wait to find a good lathe to apply this project to since I've been wanting to set up a home machine shop for several years.
I've been working in electronic manufacturing for over 30-years and I have some experience with soldering to gold and platinum they don't oxidize because they don't react to almost anything and that is the problem you are having soldering the gold. Copper, beryllium, tin, and lead all react easily so all you have to do is keep out the oxygen to prevent oxides that stop solder wetting and that is what no-clean flux does but when you are soldering to precious metals you need to go old school and use a flux that forces a reaction that means acid and that also means you'll have to clean after or the acid will eventually eat your circuit board. We use RA flux and solder with an RA flux core to achieve a good result with precious metals and we water clean those fluxes off.
Personally I love your presentations. Please don't change a thing. I hate it when I search for a "how to" video and only get a glossed over "look what I did" video with no "how to" in it. It's a complete waste of my time. Luv your vids buddy! Again, please keep it up!
Love this channel ! It just keeps getting better.............!!!
The detail is what I love about you!!!!! Thanks for sharing Buddy, please keep up the great work!
Good to see I am not the only one with an irrational love relationship with MELFs.
I've had some experience with pogo pin test fixtures for a Marconi ATE. You're heading in the right direction but you need a mechanism to hold the board under test onto the pins. Our usual mechanism was vacuum as that ensured equal pressure over the board but then that adds complexity and constraints to the board under test's design.One thing for sure, you need a programmable purpose built test system. We'd never start by putting power to the board under test. First phase was testing as many components as possible for correct value and orientation etc. then via programmable power supplies start to power the board up.
In this case, the test should take less than a second, so I haven't bothered with a clamp system yet.
Another fantastic video. I’d like to see some more in depths videos on writing the source code.
Love your videos! Always very instructive and sharing your design thought processes is golden. On the lighter side, forgot some pogo sticks, hmm!😉😉
Very nice fixture design. I have one suggestion: add a couple of alignment pins that go through the mounting holes in two opposite corners of the DUT. I would use some finishing nails, with the points filed round so they aren't too sharp. Just put a nail in a small drill press, like a drill bit, put an unstuffed DUT board on the fixture to act as a guide, then melt the nail into your 3D-printed frame by spinning. I find that it also helps to make score lines on the part of the nail that will be melted into the plastic, to make it harder to pull out. If the mounting holes on the DUT are plated and grounded (I haven't watched the prev videos on this project) then the guide pins could also be grounded to give you the first-contact that you are presently doing by raising one pogo pin higher.
Appropriate content. Like the pacing and detail. Don't compromise what you're doing.
Fantastic stuff. I for one greatly appreciate the high level of detail you include in all your videos.
3:49 they do btw, when you do a small run they print them on, larger runs get the real silk screen process
10:00 Oh very good (and an earlier teaser)! Have you been taking lessons from This Old Tony?
I love the detail.. that’s why I watch your channel
Your included detail is perfect keep,it coming!
i would think the pogo pins drawing the heat away from the joint is also an issue, so maybe heat the pin a bit, then the pin and the pad, then apply the solder?
I absolutely love the way you run your channel! Just keep it up.
The t15-1403 is my favorite tip. It makes quick work of most scolding/rework, but I agree you needed flux.
This is the first of your videos I have seen. I'm only at 3:08 and it is wonderful.
Your video is such a welcome change from the many "fast-forward" or "noise-overlay" videos.
I don't know IF that your whole series will be useful to me, but even 1/7 of this video has been quite wonderful to watch and hear.
Btw, we don't need to know that you already opened the box. Although it may explain why the bundles weren't taped shut.
Don't change a thing. Great content as always.
1000% AGREE with your details content.
your detail is outstanding!.....
Try some Kester 2331-ZX on those pogo pins. I also usually have to turn my heat up a little bit because of the additional mass sucking the heat right out of the tip.
I agree with everyone else about your content. There's plenty of Colin Furzes out there. I appreciate content without all the attention grabbing nonsense
"Designed in Idaho"? Cool! Kootenai County checking in!
Awesome! Loving this series...
James; Don't change the detail. I've always been interested more in the details. I never got into the design process and it has interested me for a long time.
Badass videos from a badass dude, keep it up man, you're doing great!! This is the kind of stuff I keep in MY RUclips library!
Hi James,
I just want to begin by letting you know that I’ve really been enjoying watching your channel.
I know that you’re in the process of making/testing your z-axis electronic leadscrew project, but I wanted to ask if you had thought of a future project that advances on this by also including an x-axis leadscrew control? I’ve recently begun working in a shop with lathes that have this feature. These lathes can be used as manual machines, but also as CNC lathes, that allow you to create arcs, chamfers and more complicated shapes by ‘drawing’ your design (on a DRO/computer) with the x- and z-axes working together to form these shapes.
I’m not sure how difficult this system would be to create, however, I can say that these ‘hybrid’ manual/CNC lathes are fantastic to use, open many opportunities and would be a fantastic extension on what you are currently doing.
Regardless of if you went in this direction or not, please keep up the style of content that you offer as it’s great to watch.
Best wishes,
Rob.
haha I was gonna raz ya about the ground pin but I waited ... glad you did it that way.
A fiberglass filament ink eraser...it looks like a brush, works great for removing oxidation from through hole components!
I like the way you present your content. There are to many times I am looking for a how to do something, just to find an I did this video. Keep doing what you do. Don't change it. And the quality is great. Well on second thought...... You can make more and longer videos on a bunch more topics, I'll send you a list........... Just kidding. Love the channel.
The button which was included in the box is something that I find in many shipments from China. I think this is their idea about fostering public relationship.
Very neat video. Thanks for taking us through the process 😁
Water wash ... do you just scrub it under running water and then dry it off? I am another who appreciates the length and detail of your videos, thank you!
Agreed
Great series
Another excellent video James. Thank you so much!