I appreciate the time you took to show this repair. I can not believe the manufacturers use this material for flooring, I know it is light but It is absolute junk. And for that reason I will never purchase a light weight model again. I have a light weight travel trailer that I will be doing a very similar repair in the bathroom area as well. Thank You
The lites are definitely built with weight in mind and not longevity! My next camper purchase will definitely come with more research on the construction type used! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
It's somewhat a good design but it needs some improvement. The whole floor should just be PVC or some sort of plastic composite material that just simply cannot rot
Imho it is a great design just wood wood hates water. My 19 yr old Winnebago has the same design in the walls and floor. I IGNORED the water that ran across the floor from the drain in the bath when the Rv was leaning. A motor home has metal barier under the floor to act as a fire break. Weight is everthing tires axles brakes and capacity are all part of the decision. Also you need a pressure regulator on incoming hose. Good luck and thanks for making the video. I know how I can fix mine. I will use Styrofoam and 1x2" strips as spars and laminate luan to it. Use clear Gorilla Glue applying it with a roller after moistening the foam w/rag . Then pressure will bond them into a better floor. Same I do with wings amazing strength
I think the design is good, the material selection just didn't match the environment that it was going to be in. People sure pick up on that pressure regulator not being there lol! I was confident that it was a non issue since the camper was the only thing hooked to my private well, no worry of pressure spikes. I do indeed have a regulator that we use at the campsites, cheap protection from a major disaster! Good luck with your repair, sounds like it will work! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Very nice job. I think it was a good choice not to wrap that 2x4 on the back. It would have offered protection, but if there was ever the smallest nick it would trap the moisture. By the same token, maybe a strike of sealant on the screw heads and the seams, but skip the tape.
You should've Rhino-Lined the replacement subflooring before reinstalling the pieces. Much more water tight and durable than the black tarping product.
Could have, it would be pretty water tight, but I don't think all that worth it. That stuff is pretty pricey, and really it is just thick rubberized paint. As long as the water isn't getting on top of that underpinning, it will last a long time, the rest of the trailer has. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Hi thank you so much for this video! I'm having the same issues in the same camper except it's my dining/kitchen area. Can you give me an idea of what I am looking at cost wise? If I do it myself. Also major tools I will need? I would appreciate it tremendously!
@shawnasage8499 oh boy, it's been a long time since I bought that stuff. I would estimate around $200-$250 for supplies depending on the size of the area. That would be 1/2" plywood, some 2x4's paint, the underpinning material some hardware and a little insulation. As for tools, you'll need a circular saw for sure and a drill/screw driver of some sort. I'm sure I used my sawzall and my tablesaw also. It's hard to answer it all in a comment, but that should be a good start. Hope that helps!
The issue I was referring to is something called Galvanic Corrosion. Galvanic corrosion is when two metals are in "electrical" contact and it causes one of the metals to corrode faster than the other. That is a very simplified definition. Treated lumber is treated with chemicals that contain copper and chromium, these metals can cause this corrosion. This is why there are screws and nails that are specifically designed for use on treated lumber. They are generally galvanized or coated with something that will "electrically insulate" the fastener from the chemicals in the wood. My concern wasn't the fasteners so much as it is the frame of the camper. The corrosion doesn't always happen, but when it does its pretty damaging. Hope that was a long winded enough answer! Thanks for watching!
Depends on where you would intend to use it. For the sub floor? no, way too flimsy. For the underside? yeah, that would last a long time and no worries of water damage, it is just about 3 or 4 times more expensive and as long as the water stays off, the plywood will last the life of the camper.
Super easy fix/hack solution for Rockwood fluffy foam floors: Step one = Insure trailer for market value. You must specify "AREED VALUE" in the policy. Step two = burn trailer to the ground. Step three = Collect insurance check.
I'm not sure how often it would work out that I could, but this time actually yes! Fabric-www.amazon.com/dp/B017UNKBBC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details Extra Tape-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJ5SPO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
As a builder, you learn that bearing is a far better method of carrying a load than ledger where the fasteners are carrying the load. In any event, what is the “board” you referred to using prior to gluing the membrane? Many panel materials (cement..) have no real structural integrity.
That's definitely true! I've adopted the idea that, where ever I can, only depend of fasteners to hold a member in place, not to transfer a load. I believe the board I was referring to there was the 1/4" Plywood that I used. Its doesn't play as much of a role in the structure of the floor as much as it does just an underpinning to protect from road debris/water. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much for creating this video repair! I have a 2011 mini lite with a soft kitchen floor. I wish I didn’t like the camper so much. Not looking forward to this repair!!
Thank you for watching! I don't blame you one bit! At least being under the kitchen you won't have to deal with the grey and black tanks, may have to work around your freshwater tank though. Good luck, youll be glad you did it when it's all done haha
Someone commented that it could be your access door leaking, both my doors were rotten at the bottom, I had to replace the side wall underneath both doors as they were super soft. The trailer manufacturers don’t spend much time putting caulking!
You did a great video but I have to ask. .Why did you replace the insulation with bats? If the floor ever leaks again the water will soak the insulation. If you used 1 inch purple foam the water would not be able to penetrate it and dry or leave.
Mostly just because I had the bat literally laying in the shop waiting to be used for something and I didn't want to spend any more money than necessary. The foam board would definitely be more resistant to water though. Thanks for the comment!
I didn't keep a close tab on the materials, but I'm pretty sure I didn't have any more than $150. That's not including the laminate flooring that we put down in the next video. Thanks for the comment!
Nice job and video. I think I may have gotten some automotive rubberized undercoating and sprayed the wood you painted and the seems and over the screws. Just my thought.
Thanks! and thanks for watching. Undercoating definitely wouldn't have hurt. It would help keep moisture from coming up from the bottom. I've found the best water proofing is to park things under a roof! Which I've done ever since.
Yep, I couldn't believe it when I started to tear the floor up. My husband wanted to leave it haha... but I am selling the trailer and I want it fixed for the next people. So far, so good. The flooring I am putting on top will be fun, and I look forward to getting finished. However I am not going to touch the delamination on the side wall... if I were keeping it I would though. Thanks for the video, I kept looking before I tore into mine and found nothing!
I'm glad it helped! Sounds like a hefty project, good luck with it and hopefully the next person will get several years of use from it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@assemblyrequired1 it was actually pretty easy. Pulled up rotted wood, replaced it, painted kill over whole floor. And then put interlocking 1/2" wood grained look flooring down. I am happy. And you can simply pull floor up to look under.
I rehab houses, i've had people ask how do you get started I tell them you jump in with both feet then figure out how to swim, once you start opening up any can of worms you figure out real quick either sink or swim
Thanks for the vid. Gotta tear up my kitchen floor, id like to put some 2x4s in there also. Cheap ass crap these rvs are . But we live in ours an cant let moma fall thru thr floor cookin supper lol.
I feel your pain!! I know they are trying to save on weight with using the thin plywood and styrofoam but...in the bathroom area they really need to recalculate! Especially for bigger guys like me and you. We need some support! LOL! You got her solid now tho!🦾🦾
I am trying to replace the center of my camper floor, there is no support for floor except the frame rails. It has the foam flooring I’m desperate to fix,
Yeah, some of the repairs for that style of floor could be tricky. Maybe run some supports between the frame rails that would support the floor from the bottom side? Good luck and thanks for watching!
I used hex headed self tapping screws, I believe they were 2" long possibly 2.5". If I remember correctly they were #10's. Drilled through the board with a drill bit and then let the self tapping screws thread themselves into the aluminum tubing. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Plz help. My floor is low. Not soft. My rv was moved...full.. and for some reason floor shifted. I thought.. brace with 2x4 under between frame and leveler inside before adding new floor
@sandyginn860 it's hard to know without seeing it, I would want to find out why it shifted. Is the floor rotten around the frame, but the center is fine? Bracing is fine, but there is obviously something wrong with the structure of the floor that caused it to sink. If the floor was good before being moved, it is compromised now because of the weight or something. Sorry that happened, wish I could help more!
@@assemblyrequired1 thanx. Not rotted. It just shifted with a fully loaded rv....but that did help. I'm getting under it today to look. Thank u sooo much
Every trailer manufacturer does it they use a non-pex flexible pipe and put a pex fitting on it . They don't care . I had to laugh that you're a good floor tester. LOL nice video nice job.
PEX fittings look like hose barbs, but they really don't work as well. And hey, work with the blessings you were given right? haha Thanks for watching and for the comment!
My theory on the "leaks" was the cold pipes (water within) was causing condensation. But whatever tubing they are using is definitely a heavy wall that the PEX crimp rings might have a problem with.
To glue the underlayment to the 1/4" plywood I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. For other areas that I fixed the bottom of the floor (not in this video) I used liquid nails construction adhesive. Thanks for the comment!
I imagine you are correct. I'll be re-caulking and then I think we'll be parking it under roof just to make sure we don't have any more issues. Thanks for the comment!
Your video could NOT have come at a better time! I have the EXACT same problem in my RV and I have to fix it before I sell it. I had the same reaction when I saw the floor: "THEY USED 1/8 INCH PLYWOOD AND F*CKING STYROFOAM!!!". Least to say I was PISSED. Not only that, to add insult to injury, the floor joists are spaced at least 24" apart, instead of a construction industry standard of a MAXUMUM of 16". I am appalled. Currently building a tiny home shed AND skoolie and consider myself an expert after being in the industry for over 10 years, but I'm used to fixing things that were built at least half right. These RVs are a different breed...
Haha, I found the same thing in my 2006 Kodiak. The main front door and the little cubby door leak! UGH. You should see how that cubby door is in there, 4 screws not screwed into anything.
Haha Thanks! It did end up being a pretty big job by the time I got the floor repaired and then put new vinyl plank flooring in! The camper is nice though! Thanks for watching!
Great idea, and its amazing how rigid and light they are when they are new. They just simply can't hold up to the use and the elements, I understand that in later model years they moved away from the bonded floors and back to plywood.
What material did you use on the very bottom of the floor which will be exposed to the outside? You are pointing at it at the 15:35 mark. I'm going to have to cut out the existing membrane material on the bottom of my floor and I'd like some ideas on what you use to replace it. Thanks
Hey alzeppelin, I found a product on Amazon that is the same thing that was on the bottom of camper originally. The one that I ordered was called "Mobile Home RV Flex Mend Belly Bottom Repair Kit-Fix Holes & Rips 48" x 14' (1)". Below is a link that you can copy and paste into your browser that should take you right to it. It is the underpinning material and a mend tape that comes with it. You can also just search "RV Underbelly" and several options will come up. Hope this helps and thanks for watching! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017UNKBBC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EXCELLENT JOB!!!! My trailer floor is exactly like yours, except it has spread throughout the whole thing! I’m on the fence about doing your route, because it’s so extensive. I’m going to use angle iron from underneath and lay some plywood over the top and mask it off with plastic. She’s 20+ years old now. So it’s still a large job. I already pulled out the top Layer down to the foam board, so taking it all out is just huge for me. But you did a most excellent job. It will last!
I appreciate the time you took to show this repair. I can not believe the manufacturers use this material for flooring, I know it is light but It is absolute junk. And for that reason I will never purchase a light weight model again. I have a light weight travel trailer that I will be doing a very similar repair in the bathroom area as well. Thank You
The lites are definitely built with weight in mind and not longevity! My next camper purchase will definitely come with more research on the construction type used! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
It's somewhat a good design but it needs some improvement. The whole floor should just be PVC or some sort of plastic composite material that just simply cannot rot
Imho it is a great design just wood wood hates water. My 19 yr old Winnebago has the same design in the walls and floor. I IGNORED the water that ran across the floor from the drain in the bath when the Rv was leaning. A motor home has metal barier under the floor to act as a fire break. Weight is everthing tires axles brakes and capacity are all part of the decision. Also you need a pressure regulator on incoming hose. Good luck and thanks for making the video. I know how I can fix mine. I will use Styrofoam and 1x2" strips as spars and laminate luan to it. Use clear Gorilla Glue applying it with a roller after moistening the foam w/rag . Then pressure will bond them into a better floor. Same I do with wings amazing strength
I think the design is good, the material selection just didn't match the environment that it was going to be in. People sure pick up on that pressure regulator not being there lol! I was confident that it was a non issue since the camper was the only thing hooked to my private well, no worry of pressure spikes. I do indeed have a regulator that we use at the campsites, cheap protection from a major disaster! Good luck with your repair, sounds like it will work! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Very nice job. I think it was a good choice not to wrap that 2x4 on the back. It would have offered protection, but if there was ever the smallest nick it would trap the moisture. By the same token, maybe a strike of sealant on the screw heads and the seams, but skip the tape.
Thanks! Yeah a little silicone wouldn't hurt especially for days driving in the rain. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
“Once we got started, it was kinda hard to tell where to stop”! 😂 When dealing with a water damaged RV, never have truer words been spoken!
I take it you've been there! Lol
not just on RV's, playing Columbo on finding leaks in any structure is a nightmare of $$$$$
I clicked on the comments tab and read yours exactly when he was saying it in the video 😆 🤣
You should've Rhino-Lined the replacement subflooring before reinstalling the pieces. Much more water tight and durable than the black tarping product.
Could have, it would be pretty water tight, but I don't think all that worth it. That stuff is pretty pricey, and really it is just thick rubberized paint. As long as the water isn't getting on top of that underpinning, it will last a long time, the rest of the trailer has. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Hi thank you so much for this video! I'm having the same issues in the same camper except it's my dining/kitchen area. Can you give me an idea of what I am looking at cost wise? If I do it myself. Also major tools I will need? I would appreciate it tremendously!
@shawnasage8499 oh boy, it's been a long time since I bought that stuff. I would estimate around $200-$250 for supplies depending on the size of the area. That would be 1/2" plywood, some 2x4's paint, the underpinning material some hardware and a little insulation. As for tools, you'll need a circular saw for sure and a drill/screw driver of some sort. I'm sure I used my sawzall and my tablesaw also. It's hard to answer it all in a comment, but that should be a good start. Hope that helps!
@@assemblyrequired1Thank you so much.
Nice video! I recently had to replace my floor. I made a small video from pictures i took
Cool, I'll have to go check it out. Thanks for watching!
I'm curious what the problems with using treated lumber are?
The issue I was referring to is something called Galvanic Corrosion. Galvanic corrosion is when two metals are in "electrical" contact and it causes one of the metals to corrode faster than the other. That is a very simplified definition. Treated lumber is treated with chemicals that contain copper and chromium, these metals can cause this corrosion. This is why there are screws and nails that are specifically designed for use on treated lumber. They are generally galvanized or coated with something that will "electrically insulate" the fastener from the chemicals in the wood. My concern wasn't the fasteners so much as it is the frame of the camper. The corrosion doesn't always happen, but when it does its pretty damaging. Hope that was a long winded enough answer! Thanks for watching!
Why not rip down a 4x8 sheet of 1/4 PVC?
Depends on where you would intend to use it. For the sub floor? no, way too flimsy. For the underside? yeah, that would last a long time and no worries of water damage, it is just about 3 or 4 times more expensive and as long as the water stays off, the plywood will last the life of the camper.
They all do
Not all, the heavier trailers, specifically older ones had plywood floors.
@@assemblyrequired1 correct, the non lite models.......
Super easy fix/hack solution for Rockwood fluffy foam floors: Step one = Insure trailer for market value. You must specify "AREED VALUE" in the policy. Step two = burn trailer to the ground. Step three = Collect insurance check.
Nice, now let me delete this comment so the insurance company can't find it later!
PS!! I’ve looked all over UTube and yours is the best one! Most revealing and problem solving, and understanding! Congratulations!!
Great! Thanks! I try to make videos helpful!
I know this is a Year later but can you post a Link to that material you bought on amazon that you wrapped those boards with ?
I'm not sure how often it would work out that I could, but this time actually yes!
Fabric-www.amazon.com/dp/B017UNKBBC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
Extra Tape-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJ5SPO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
As a builder, you learn that bearing is a far better method of carrying a load than ledger where the fasteners are carrying the load. In any event, what is the “board” you referred to using prior to gluing the membrane? Many panel materials (cement..) have no real structural integrity.
That's definitely true! I've adopted the idea that, where ever I can, only depend of fasteners to hold a member in place, not to transfer a load. I believe the board I was referring to there was the 1/4" Plywood that I used. Its doesn't play as much of a role in the structure of the floor as much as it does just an underpinning to protect from road debris/water. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much for creating this video repair!
I have a 2011 mini lite with a soft kitchen floor. I wish I didn’t like the camper so much. Not looking forward to this repair!!
Thank you for watching! I don't blame you one bit! At least being under the kitchen you won't have to deal with the grey and black tanks, may have to work around your freshwater tank though. Good luck, youll be glad you did it when it's all done haha
Someone commented that it could be your access door leaking, both my doors were rotten at the bottom, I had to replace the side wall underneath both doors as they were super soft. The trailer manufacturers don’t spend much time putting caulking!
True true. I don't really have any signs of them leaking but I will definitely be re-caulking around them! Thanks for the comment!
You did a great video but I have to ask. .Why did you replace the insulation with bats? If the floor ever leaks again the water will soak the insulation. If you used 1 inch purple foam the water would not be able to penetrate it and dry or leave.
Mostly just because I had the bat literally laying in the shop waiting to be used for something and I didn't want to spend any more money than necessary. The foam board would definitely be more resistant to water though. Thanks for the comment!
Whats it cost to fix something like that
I didn't keep a close tab on the materials, but I'm pretty sure I didn't have any more than $150. That's not including the laminate flooring that we put down in the next video. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks! Galvanic corrosion, understood.
Nice job and video. I think I may have gotten some automotive rubberized undercoating and sprayed the wood you painted and the seems and over the screws. Just my thought.
Thanks! and thanks for watching. Undercoating definitely wouldn't have hurt. It would help keep moisture from coming up from the bottom. I've found the best water proofing is to park things under a roof! Which I've done ever since.
Yep, I couldn't believe it when I started to tear the floor up. My husband wanted to leave it haha... but I am selling the trailer and I want it fixed for the next people. So far, so good. The flooring I am putting on top will be fun, and I look forward to getting finished. However I am not going to touch the delamination on the side wall... if I were keeping it I would though. Thanks for the video, I kept looking before I tore into mine and found nothing!
I'm glad it helped! Sounds like a hefty project, good luck with it and hopefully the next person will get several years of use from it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@assemblyrequired1 it was actually pretty easy. Pulled up rotted wood, replaced it, painted kill over whole floor. And then put interlocking 1/2" wood grained look flooring down. I am happy. And you can simply pull floor up to look under.
Dang dude, you got stones and skill doing this ;) thanks for making the video. Enjoyed watching it
Thanks! Brave or dumb, I'm never afraid to tear into things! Haha
I rehab houses, i've had people ask how do you get started I tell them you jump in with both feet then figure out how to swim, once you start opening up any can of worms you figure out real quick either sink or swim
As soon as I saw water pump I knew
haha, thanks for watching!
I just bought a 2013 Hybrid ultra light from Gulfstream and I have a soft spot by the front door. This video helps.
Great! Good Luck with your project and thanks for watching!
My next camper I'm building off of a enclosed aluminum trailer. I'm done with this junk. Want it done right do it yourself.
I hear ya! I just wish I had time to build everything I wanted! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have been helping a friend with his Keystone Outback. Today we install the Mercury 200 Outboard.
Haha!
Thanks for the vid. Gotta tear up my kitchen floor, id like to put some 2x4s in there also. Cheap ass crap these rvs are . But we live in ours an cant let moma fall thru thr floor cookin supper lol.
Good luck! Hope it turns out well, and keeps momma happy!
Nice Job!!!
Thank you! and thanks for watching!
Ya did good. I have the same problem I'm looking to repair on my dads Nomad with the same floor.
Thanks! It's done well so far. Good luck with your project, thanks for watching!
How much did you pay for the camper?
Hey Shane, we gave about 60% of the NADA value of the camper at the time.
I feel your pain!! I know they are trying to save on weight with using the thin plywood and styrofoam but...in the bathroom area they really need to recalculate! Especially for bigger guys like me and you. We need some support! LOL! You got her solid now tho!🦾🦾
Haha! That's no doubt! I can appreciate the design, but like you said, we need something with a little heft! Thanks for watching!
I am trying to replace the center of my camper floor, there is no support for floor except the frame rails. It has the foam flooring I’m desperate to fix,
Yeah, some of the repairs for that style of floor could be tricky. Maybe run some supports between the frame rails that would support the floor from the bottom side? Good luck and thanks for watching!
Mr Beast in an alternative reality lol
Ha! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the detailed video. What was the purpose of painting the 2x’s?
Hope it helped! Since I didn't want to use treated lumber, I painted them to help protect them from moisture if it gets in there. Thanks for watching!
Smart guy ..Good luck ..ENJOY .
Thanks! We have really enjoyed it since we got it fixed!
Got a camper and the walls are covered in glued wood to styrofoam. 🙃 it’s be so much trying to rip it all out
I feel your pain! Good luck with your renovation!
Excellent repair. The seam tape is a bonus. Great job. Paul Ramsay NS, Canada
Thank you! And thanks for watching!!
You don't expect such damage from a 2013 camper, caveat emptor!
For sure! Helped me get a better deal, so in my case it worked out better. Thanks for watching!
What kind of screws did you use to secure the 2x4's to the metal tubing?
I used hex headed self tapping screws, I believe they were 2" long possibly 2.5". If I remember correctly they were #10's. Drilled through the board with a drill bit and then let the self tapping screws thread themselves into the aluminum tubing. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Plz help. My floor is low. Not soft. My rv was moved...full.. and for some reason floor shifted. I thought.. brace with 2x4 under between frame and leveler inside before adding new floor
@sandyginn860 it's hard to know without seeing it, I would want to find out why it shifted. Is the floor rotten around the frame, but the center is fine? Bracing is fine, but there is obviously something wrong with the structure of the floor that caused it to sink. If the floor was good before being moved, it is compromised now because of the weight or something. Sorry that happened, wish I could help more!
@@assemblyrequired1 thanx. Not rotted. It just shifted with a fully loaded rv....but that did help. I'm getting under it today to look. Thank u sooo much
@@sandyginn860 feel free to email me some pictures, no guarantee I can help, but I'll give it a shot! My email is on my channel page
ya just dont know how cheap they are put together until you have to repair it
Very true! She's been parked under roof ever since!
Every trailer manufacturer does it they use a non-pex flexible pipe and put a pex fitting on it . They don't care . I had to laugh that you're a good floor tester. LOL nice video nice job.
PEX fittings look like hose barbs, but they really don't work as well. And hey, work with the blessings you were given right? haha Thanks for watching and for the comment!
My theory on the "leaks" was the cold pipes (water within) was causing condensation. But whatever tubing they are using is definitely a heavy wall that the PEX crimp rings might have a problem with.
Not sure if you are using pl premium glue on all the components
To glue the underlayment to the 1/4" plywood I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. For other areas that I fixed the bottom of the floor (not in this video) I used liquid nails construction adhesive. Thanks for the comment!
Is usually a piece of molding trim at the very bottom of the back wall water can run down and soak up underneath
I imagine you are correct. I'll be re-caulking and then I think we'll be parking it under roof just to make sure we don't have any more issues. Thanks for the comment!
@@assemblyrequired1 I just wrapped a long strip of etrnabond around the bottom on my camper. barley see it from the back unless you look under
Your video could NOT have come at a better time! I have the EXACT same problem in my RV and I have to fix it before I sell it. I had the same reaction when I saw the floor: "THEY USED 1/8 INCH PLYWOOD AND F*CKING STYROFOAM!!!". Least to say I was PISSED. Not only that, to add insult to injury, the floor joists are spaced at least 24" apart, instead of a construction industry standard of a MAXUMUM of 16". I am appalled. Currently building a tiny home shed AND skoolie and consider myself an expert after being in the industry for over 10 years, but I'm used to fixing things that were built at least half right. These RVs are a different breed...
Good Luck and glad this video helped! There is definitely a shift in mindset going from house construction to RV's. Hope everything works out for you!
@assemblyrequired1 being an architect myself its appalling. I just need to fix it up and sell the damn thing so I can live in my well built tiny home!
Haha, I found the same thing in my 2006 Kodiak. The main front door and the little cubby door leak! UGH. You should see how that cubby door is in there, 4 screws not screwed into anything.
Use a pressure valve when using a hose ……
This was hooked up as the only thing on the well, so I wasn't too worried about it. I do have one for campsites though! Thanks
You are a HERO. What a massive job.
Haha Thanks! It did end up being a pretty big job by the time I got the floor repaired and then put new vinyl plank flooring in! The camper is nice though! Thanks for watching!
It's your access door seals
I don't really have any signs of them leaking, but I think I will re-caulk them just to stay on top of it! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for watching! Hope it helps
Got to love vacuum bonded floors
Great idea, and its amazing how rigid and light they are when they are new. They just simply can't hold up to the use and the elements, I understand that in later model years they moved away from the bonded floors and back to plywood.
Nice job!
Thanks!
Nice job.👍
Thanks!
What material did you use on the very bottom of the floor which will be exposed to the outside? You are pointing at it at the 15:35 mark. I'm going to have to cut out the existing membrane material on the bottom of my floor and I'd like some ideas on what you use to replace it. Thanks
Hey alzeppelin, I found a product on Amazon that is the same thing that was on the bottom of camper originally. The one that I ordered was called "Mobile Home RV Flex Mend Belly Bottom Repair Kit-Fix Holes & Rips 48" x 14' (1)". Below is a link that you can copy and paste into your browser that should take you right to it. It is the underpinning material and a mend tape that comes with it. You can also just search "RV Underbelly" and several options will come up. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017UNKBBC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EXCELLENT JOB!!!! My trailer floor is exactly like yours, except it has spread throughout the whole thing! I’m on the fence about doing your route, because it’s so extensive.
I’m going to use angle iron from underneath and lay some plywood over the top and mask it off with plastic. She’s 20+ years old now. So it’s still a large job. I already pulled out the top
Layer down to the foam board, so taking it all out is just huge for me. But you did a most excellent job. It will last!
I sure hope so, Thanks for watching and commenting!
☀️ ｐｒｏｍｏｓｍ
Thanks!