Do it right. Not sure if you have any experience repairs items but make sure all you tools are in proper working order. i.e. silicon tape on all fittings. Something to absorb the projectile. Look how many times he mucks about ..... Have it set up before you hit RECORD. unless you are doing this to increase watching time ???
The shell shooting out is normal. Hydraulics will do that. JRB, hang an empty picture frame around the indent on the sheetrock and label it "life lessons help us grow"
I was waiting the whole time to see the damage from that. I figured he uploaded the video, so serious injury was unlikely 😎 Everytime he pointed it at the camera...I was like dont point that thing at me! 😂
slowing the video down to 0.25x speed, you can see 1 frame with a super blurred case. assuming the video is showing about 3 inches of space, and the video is 1/24th a second, would mean a lower limit for the speed would be around 6 fps. ... not that impressive. But it could be faster though.
@@bermchasin it had to be going faster than 6fps to dent the wall. i can trow a casing faster than 6fps and it wont leave much of a mark. I've thrown a glass cup at the wall before it dented the dry wall and bounced off without breaking, but that has more mass.
Okay, as a retired military that did do some armory work in my earlier days with M-16's, I loved this. First thing I would have done after the case hit the wall was quickly wash the oil off, then frame the dent. Stories of this would be a lifetime worth of laughs. Yes, the 90 zerk fittings have more of a chance of leaking. Having a spare barrel cap, weld the hole shut and threading it for the grease gun would have been the fastest, but having the welder is the spoiled toy to have around. Guilty as charged. The oil as a hydraulic fluid was perfect as it easily flowed into the barrel and case once the bullet was pushed in. It also flowed easily enough to push the primer out and disarm a dangerous situation. Having custom machined anything I need for more decades than I care to think about, this was great. Thanks for a thought provoking and laughable video. MSgt David R. Smyth, USAF, Ret.
Thank you. I am a gunsmith and have never been confronted with this type of a stuck case problem. Now I know. I will make the adaptor on my lathe and configure it so I don't need a zerk fitting but remove the female zerk and thread the flex hose right into the adaptor. That way there will be no leak at the zerk fitting.
God concept. The cartridge ejected because of trapped gas/air that compressed in the bore and, possibly, in the cartridge. Good idea to keep the chamber end clear of people and breakables.
@@michaelwhitehurst1182 Yea, slight improvement would have been to fill the barrel with oil and purge the air out of the grease gun part first and then it wouldn't have shot out with such force once it finally broke free.
(on my daughters account) I was amazed at how much energy the departing jacket had, given the size of the primer hole. I've used a pneumatic grease gun to clear frozen pistons inside of various cylinders over the years with good luck - usually the slug just pushes out slowly. You are right in that you have to get every bit of air out of the grease/oil before true compression begins. Even a small amount of air puts you at a disadvantage. If you stand the barrel up for an hour, most of the air will rise to the top. The hard part is getting the air out of the grease before pumping it in... Once all the air is gone from the barrel, pretty much any fluid will apply pressure equally in all directions until a sealing surface reaches its limit.. In my younger, dumber days, I cleared the piston from a rare 50 + year old single-piston brake cylinder by filing the chamber space with distilled water, plugging the threaded holes with teflon taped bolts, and "for safety" suspended it inside of a small box made from bolted together 4x4s with the open end pointed (what I figured to be) safely down range. Heated it with a propane torch thru a hole in the safety box until the steam cycle got underway. At some point along the way, the piston departed the bore a lot like a shotgun slug (and about as loud as a 12 gage!) took a weird trajectory and traveled more what looked like a few hundred feet into the side of an old truck. The body of the cylinder was flush with the 4x4 but the wood had a pretty deep dent from the recoil. That's how I did wheel cylinders and master cylinders on vintage cars for 20 years till someone mentioned a grease gun would be a lot safer...
@@crea8ivjr Heat the barrel with a hair dryer and use a rod or the grease gun, gotten them out like that before with a bit of heat and a harden push rod, and always use some nut release oil , not dent in wall..,lol
David deserves the positive reinforcement you gave him. He sounds like a good friend waiting to help if he can. All together now. 1 2 3 4 DAVE IS GREAT, GIVE HIM CHOCOLATE CAKE !
To be fair though. The shape that it left must have been "good" luck. I imagine that most of the time, it would have left an imperfect imprint or gotten stuck in the wall.
Dave is one heck of a guy and deserves that barrel. It was worth the price of admission just to hear your laugh when that sucker blew out of there! I think you should glue that brass to the wall and frame it!
Three incredible things I observed: 1) The use of motor oil was awesomely serendipitous because it was less viscous and able to work its way through every tiny opening in the casing looking for the path of least resistance. This enabled the pressure to get to the primer pin and push it out. 2) Once the primer was pushed out, the casing could "collapse" a little in diameter, and that is what allowed it to come loose under pressure. If the primer had stayed in, it was providing equal pressure from the center and not allowing the casing to "collapse" its diameter - it was helping it to hold its shape tight against the inside of the barrel. Once it was out, it made the difference, allowing the barrel to dictate to the casing a slightly less large diameter. 3) Again, with the oil pushing in every direction possible and working its way into every nook and cranny, I'm sure it also was able to push its way AROUND the outside of the casing and actually lubricate and slicken it, making it that much easier to exit once it reached the critical amount of pressure and the casing diameter had been diminished enough to be able to pop out. Excellent work. You've got a sub from me, sir! Cheers!
I think the oil was a great idea. It was a good medium for penetrating around the case without having to clean all the grease out of the barrel afterwards.
In oilfield we used water to fill and get bubble voids out,, then start pumping non flammable hydraulic fluid,,, still would of popped out like that but with much less mess
Course it was. He was pumping a LOT of pressure into that tiny space with a round acting like a cork. No way that ain't going flying. Only thing he coulda done to stop that is isolate the chamber end of that barrel in a box or something. It'd still go flying even with the heaviest oil imaginable but it would at least have been contained.
Great job....got the case out, nobody got hurt, people learned a lesson about hydraulics, a great lesson on stored energy (ask the wall) and maintained a good relationship with a talented machinist..plus gave each person good insight about proper case sizing.
@@aggese yes and no, you still have to use Grease in the pump because it's not built to pump low viscosity fluids but water would work instead of the oil but back flow of water could damage your Grease gun and you would have to make sure no water was in the barrel for oxidation. Fun fact water is used for some hydraulics in high temperature applications where you don't want fire
Ive had several "gunsmiths" ruin air pistols i brought in for warrenty service and had the nerve to ask.... Uh what did you say was wrong with your gun? as I observed the deep dents that were smashed in the pump chamber from his crude vice he clamped it in Gunsmiths seem to like tearing up fine wooden gunstocks in unprotected jaws of vices. Would they have done that if it was their own weapon?
Pressure releases in the path of least resistance, fluids are considered non compressible, the pressure build up was from the extremely small amount of flex of the barrel expanding from the fluid forcing it outward as well as the brass and primer flexing. Think of it as an extremely strong spring that you slowly compress and all of a sudden release, the brass only had so much resistance to the force pushing it out, once that was met and exceeded the spring released and shot the brass across the room. You were right to try to get as much air out as possible but there would have been a small amount in the case, hence the bubbles after the primer pushed out. Air is compressible, thus adding to the spring force of the pressure build up. If you were able to use only grease the grease would not have shot across the room, unless there was air behind it, but the case still might have. I believe in this situation a combination of the kind and specific amount of resistance to movement of the case in the chamber, the friction between the case and the chamber, and a little bit of air caused the seemingly explosive exit of the case from the chamber. The key is that the case was released all at one time and did not push out slowly, I am used to pulling or pushing seized metal pins on dirt equipment, when a pin is stuck very hard using a hydraulic press we can remove the pin. There is so much friction from the added diameter from rust that the pin makes a loud bang the first few times it moves until the rust is broken up. This is what happened to you except the brass did not have anything else holding it in once it first moved. In terms of physics you applied kinetic energy to a system to hydraulically pressurize a cylinder storing up potentially energy in the cylinder until the coefficient of static friction of the case against the chamber was overcome, once that happened the coefficient of kinetic friction was not enough to stop or even really slow down the case as the pressure was released, in other words you should always take precautions of a sudden energy release when dealing with high pressure.
Yeah, there had to be some air in there. My dad did hydraulics in the AF and told me when I was young that one drop of leaked fluid relieves all the pressure in an air free hydraulic system.
I love that this has nearly half a million views. The case shaped dent in his wall (in the middle of a totally satisfying splat, by the way) is worth every view.
I would too, I have a barrel with a squib bullet stuck in it. But it isn't threaded, it has been on the shelf for years as it is one of my old silhouette barrels and I just can't seem to get rid of it.
@@IWatchedWhat If there is a way to warm the barrel enough while you try to remove the squib, that should help. I had a squib in a Ruger SP101 in .327. I was able to drill some of it out, then the last part that had the brass casing, I used a propane torch lightly to heat the cone. That was enough to push it out.
Hi, Johnny. The mark the casing made in the wall tells it all. It was worth the wait! Thanks for the vid and thanks to Dave for contributing the fittings you needed. It was great when the primer busted loose. It was awesome when the cartridge let go! Thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
So it seems that the type of grease gun you use is very important. I tried this technique using an M3A1 grease gun, and it actually made my problem much worse.
Thanks Dave! The great news is now WE have fitting to use if WE ever get a stuck round...just give Johnny a jingle. signed That Guy. Put the grease zerk on last after the adapter is attached to the barrel and both filled up. Fill with oil from the shell upward with a long piece of small tubing attached to the syringe, i.e. no air in the barrel. Your local lube shop may have a pneumatic greaser that could pump that stuck round out in a jiffy. PS: I have lots of free advice ;-)
Thats awesome! My first thought is, "I would remove that coupler from the grease gun, eliminate the zerk fitting and screw the hose straight to that adapter. Good work man.
Thomas Schwenneker the zerk wasn’t needed. The only thing that serves any purpose far was when pushing grease in with the lever that it would hold that maximum pressure from pressing the lever pushing grease in. And holding it in When the lever was let go of when the lever was let go of. since it’s basically a check valve. Otherwise the most pressure that could’ve been within that barrel was the amount of pressure he could’ve applied through the lever. Because each press of the lever raise the pressure but the max would’ve been at the point where he could not press the lever hard enough to overcome the ball in the zerk. And any press prior to that last one that pressure is on that hose anyway. The benefit of the zerk was to trap and hold the pressure that he was able to exert from the lever of the grease gun into the barrel and hold it there. And with anything that has force applied to it what fails first is the weakest link. So it was only of a matter of time. And is why that fitting mattered for that. To not have had to crank down on the lever of the grease gun and hold it and hold it until the weakest link finally failed which was the case stuck in the barrel
You got her done!! As far as that case flying out it was caused by compressed air. Liquids do not compress a significant amount, air however compresses very easily. The air was somewhere in the equation between the back of the case up to and including the hose of the grease gun right to the piston . A good quality lever grease gun will produce around 10,000 psi, that one you had can realistically make around 5000 psi. Can create quite a projectile with some air in the enclosure.
Whenever this video pops up I can’t help but watch it!!!!!!! I love how happy you get when the brass shoots out of the barrel!!!!! And the shape of the dent is the wall is awesome! Johnny I just want thank you for all the great info over the years. You got me into reloading! Have a great weekend!
We had this happen a few times with my m4. I found the best way to clear the obstruction was to squirt lubricant down the barrel until it came out the bottom. Then I stuff the barrel with a bit of fabric. Then I connect several cleaning rods together and stick them into the barrel, then I hold onto the barrel and repeatedly slam the cleaning rod into the ground. That always works pretty quickly. The round pops out within 2 to 3 minutes of tapping it.
Im a retired gun smith of 30 years and I injoyed this veido your freind dave is a good freind and machinist to design this for you that he could east adapt for stuck cartrige cases in a die set and sell both for a good profit, He is a talented man . Keep making veidos the most advanced products on the market come from people like you and your freind Dave , I myself would buy this product if he so decided to make them. thank you.
I remember letting out an audible groan when I heard Johnny say he let that gunsmith do that. Under no circumstances should a steel rod be anywhere near a bore. I think if he were to use the hydraulic pump first the barrel would be in mint condition still.
The gunsmith didn't use a hammer. I was the one to use a hammer. I beat the snot out of it with a cleaning rod before resorting to taking it to the smith. The gunsmith had some sort of fixture for his lathe. I didn't see it, and I don't know anything about lathes anyway, so I can't be more specific.
Johnny's Reloading Bench doesn’t matter really, you really overcomplicated just firing the round and then inserting a rod and knocking the casing out of it . Hopefully you overcomplicated this for a video series on how to overcomplicate anything.
@@do4267 i don't know about that. i thought the same thing initially. so, let's say the round doesn't fully seat, he hammers the forward assist effectively wedging it fantastically. tries to remedial action and it breaks a piece of the rim off. ok, now you dismantle the whole barrel, clamp it down and simply hit the primer with something pointy. that brass is going to expand even harder into that chamber, flow backwards a bit, stretch, thin out where it isn't supported. try to knock the brass out now and you'll just shear the whole back end of the casing off. then where are ya?
Having dealt with high pressure oil and 5in gun systems in the past, I'm not sure you could have stopped that round (casing) from an energetic release. There is a significant amount of air in that case. I think you did the best you could have in the situation. Loved the video.
Have had to do the same thing with antique 90 year old outboards with frozen pistons. Biggest thing is to get out as much air as you can and pump slow and consistent. Glad you got it out! Love the dent, Frame it!
Probably no way to confirm it, but I'm thinking the divots near the start of the lands came from the steel rod the gunsmith used to try and hammer the cartridge out. Same thing with the small dings near the crown.
I gave you a big thumbs up because you were honest and showed the unintentional double shot. People watching these videos need to see the honesty. Thank you sir.
Awesome man, I'm surprised the barrel wasn't damaged after having the round shoved in so hard. It was cool seeing the oil disarm the round and then pop the whole thing out without breaking anything.
@@alwayssomething3259 A Hah! I knew there had to be a reason why he didn't " just eliminate the zerk" as some people said who ,obviously didn't have the experience with such things.Easy to criticize if you don't know what you're talking about. Kinda like calling "Saving Private Ryan" the "...best war movie ever made!". Youngsters.
@@paulwilliams8555 There is also issues with just which threads. Standard grease fitting is 1/4 inch by 28 threads per inch. Long forgotten what is on the end of the flex hose,but I do not think it is that. You only need one ball check valve to get the grease to move as it should. As I recall,there is one in the fitting that grabs the Zerk with the three fingers. I would have to buy a new gun with all the bits I prefer as extras to figure out how to get down to just one ball check valve. Take all to bits and make note of the whatzits I never paid attention to before. Just goes to show,it is really easy to reinvent the wheel and add extra items someone else thought of already a long time ago. This was a good episode. I thought that really thin motor oil was a mistake,straight 30 weight being thicker,I was wrong. Pushed the bullet down and soaked the powder. The instant that happened, the safety factor went WAY up. And thin enough to push the primer out. No man can know everything. This worked out well,and safely. I enjoyed it. Made me think.
@@paulwilliams8555 yes most commonly threaded in 1/8 inch pipe thread. Hard lines or hoses can be attached to them as long as they are rated for the pressure produced by the gun.
It’s the simple things that are ABSOLUTELY genius. Love how a fellow gun advocate turned some threads for his fitting. I wonder how a person could build the PSI required to blow a stick round out the breech if the barrel is non-suppressed/ non-threaded. Such a damn good idea!
The marks in the barrel were likely caused when your gunsmith friend tried to drive the stuck round out. You said earlier that he bent the rod trying to get the round out!
If the rod bent, that means its mild steel, aka very low carbon steel. A rifle barrel is hardened high carbon steel. Low carbon mild steel isn't going to do shit to high carbon hardened steel. This is entirely the reason why steel hardening is even a thing.
the air in the grease was not the problem. the bubbles at the muzzle needit to work thru all of the mass of the oil. as a tip for next time/ user. have have a pump rod or something solid to fill the barrel. u will not need as much oil and if the round moves just a bit u will have a way bigger pressure drop.
Very good video. I have seen videos of people straightening dented 2 stroke motor cycle exhaust pipes using pressurized water and it worked great. Same principle.
@@shakingmyhead7707 same as the grease method. Just poke the bread in the inner race hole and really pack it in there, then use a snug-ish fitting shaft to press it in further. More bread until you have built up enough hydraulic pressure and it'll force the bearing out towards you. Uncle Bumblefuck did a video on it a while back too. Jump to 5min, same thing works with bread. Good bet for winning some extra beers. ruclips.net/video/w62c4NQDwP0/видео.html
@@prdoohan i knew the greasy rag trick before ave, but never thought of bread, the sanwich afterwards tastes like shit but you get used to it haha. Been watching his videos since like 2011.
Dave needs to produce these! While I was watching this... every time you said “I should have used a vise”, I kept saying you need a bucket to put the chamber in... I don’t think anything would have reduced the pressure of the round flying out the way that it did. Great educational video!
LOL...Best video yet...As a machinist I knew that pressure had to go somewhere, I was just waiting for the round (brass) to shot out of that barrel and hopefully not break the camera. Nice dent in the wall. I wish you had your Magneto speed strapped on to give us the velocity of that brass coming out. Glad your OK . Next time use ATF (automatic transmission oil) or hydraulic oil.
Kevin Arnold ...ATF or hydraulic oil tend to take pressure and foam less. Cavitation (micro air bubbles) from a spinning torque converter can cause pitting and failure from bubbles. ATF or hydraulic oil take the pressure better. Oils are engineered for specific uses.
@@casevideo9880 I just don't see the advantage in this situation. It would seem to me that the properties of atf and hydraulic oil over motor oil have to do with flow under pressure where here there was only pressure, there is no way to create cavitation in this situation from what I see. I'm not saying you are wrong i just don't understand what the difference would be when the only real difference they would have is a very slight difference in comprehensibility.
Kevin Arnold Hydraulic oil, ATF, or Silicone brake fluid would be best. Motor oil is not intended for high pressure, thus the foaming and cavitation. You don’t need movement for cavitation, just air bubbles forming... due to pressure or pressure drop. Motor oil is for motors and lubrication for friction. ATF, Hydraulic oil, or Silicone brake fluid is made for pressure.
I'm not sure if it would work but, what if a fitting for an air coupling were used? Maybe a pressure valve to slowly add psi and no need for oil or grease. Would it be enough psi at the standard 125psi to get it out?
I honestly don't see the rod method ever working. If the case is stuck, pushing on the bullet will just compress the bullet onto the powder and push the brass onto the barrel tighter.
@@gabrielemagnabosco8926 a brass rod and a sharp strike on a warmed case works on case some times. But its better to use this method with a lathe no thread to attamchment is needed
I’ve done it with an empty case (end of the rod is inside the case and won’t scrape up the bore as bad that way too) and had good luck, I’ve also used a steel rod for tapping a slug through to get the land and groove dimensions, but the bore was so large there wasn’t much of a risk of hitting the rifling. I think doing it on a loaded round would be incredibly sketchy. And might ding your rifling.
From my experience with these issues with getting a round logged in the barrel a ram rod just presses the lead in a way that makes it just expand tighter in the barrel. Kind of like how a rivet works. I've bent heat treated steel rods and had to resort to using a very long drill bit
This was the first video of yours that I have watched almost a year ago now I think I have watched almost every one of your vids and now I’m a patreon supporter. Keep up the good work man.
The grease gun trick can be used for many things! Popped some broken hardened dowels out of holes that had too tight of an interference fit out of hardened steel before and they definitely move after popping out. Get a new and improved high-tech fleece bullet stop so you don't have to use clean and painted sheetrock next time ;)
Use an o-ring to seal the mating faces. (Put an o-ring counter-bore on that tool face to seal it to the barrel face). There is still a minor amount of air in all liquids. That air has to compress. The same thing will happen to the hydraulic fluid in a ram/cylinder in a press (that air compresses). You also have a flexible hose that will expand due to pressure and it will release that stored energy when the stuck bullet gets dislodged, etc.
The cylinder on the tip of the grease gun rotates and makes the opening bigger or smaller just like a common electric drill. Loosen to attach or remove and tighten during grease pumping. No need to fight attaching and removing for those who may not know. Hope this helps.
I never had a dull moment watching this video, Johnny kept the whole process described what was the plan, what he was doing and what was happening, t'was a blow by blow announcement.
Hey, Johnny. I tend to come back to this vid every once in a while, since it really was a unique problem and unique solution. Just realized it hit 1 mil! Congrats!
I’ve met a black powder shooter at the range that’ll use this same method to remove a double charge from his muzzle loader. He said he removes the cap nipple and screws in a zerk. Pumps the barrel full of grease until the obstructions are out. Glad everything worked out.
I had this happen in an Armalite barrel. I just bought a new one also but it was only 250$......suddenly my problem doesn't seem so bad now. Great video.....people may laugh but you did it the safest way I think. I would have never thought of that though....good idea.
Johnny this is killing me. Being in mechanics and machining I keep yelling at my phone "pipe threads dont need teflon, get a pneumatic greese gun, ugghh." Great job though. My wife came in and said "jesus leave the guy alone". Thanks for video.
I'm glad you gave that barrel to the guy who made that fitting for you. Right move. I'm glad everything worked out for you! love your channel. Your voice and cadence kind of reminds me of the "This Old Tony" RUclips channel. Great work, i hope you keep it up!
I'm late to this video, but I think it's been very educational. Giving the barrel to Dave is the best choice, and should try to talk Dave into producing those, even if it's a custom made, I'm sure he will have plenty of customers, I would buy one just as a insurance policy. I really enjoy your channel, as a new subscriber I find your information indispensable, I'm new to 6.5 grendel and creedmoor and really enjoy them. Thanks for your information and detail to the reloading community.
I know a old post, but used a grease gun before to unstick old hit and miss antique engine pistons. Reminded me of a 7hp Faultless engine that 2 farmers tried to unstick, for 2 yrs, before they thought they suckered Dad, when he bought it. Imagine a 5" piston 10" stroke and at least 2 cases of cheap grease and 1 gallon of used diesel oil, the crank was in a position we couldn't unbolt it, when it let go , after sitting all night with pressure on , it jumped with a loud bang about a 1/4"!! We got it running, even used the original rings, found very little wear on engine. Unbelievable how much pressure a cheap grease gun can build, seen other collectors blow the combustion chamber top out on headless engines before!!
That....was...........AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! I was hoping you'd move it outside due to the mess that was sure to occur. It made for an even better video though!!!!.... Dave you kick ass, and I'll be needing one just to have. Sweetness, and on to some more vids.
Loved the video ! I use a brass,or mild steel rod,that just loosely fits into the case neck,and bottoms on the primer area,and sticks out of the muzzle end about 2.5". Then I use a shop press,and SLOWLY pump it. It usually lets go after 2-3 pumps,and doesn't hurt the barrel.
That's a better idea than what he did because compressing petroleum causes combustion..I realize there wasn't much air inside that barrel but it could have detonated.jyst sayin
@@tomrose6292 depends on the oil, if he used hydraulic oil its not going to go with the pressure he put in same as the Grease. But if he used normal oil he might have also dieseled his barrel
Never seen it done that way before. Pretty cool. I love the "im an idiot" comment. Can't tell you how many times I've said that to myself. Love the enginuity. The scratches are almost surely from the guy that jammed the rod in there.
WTH!!!! Use the right tool for the job you lazy a$$
unsub. I want good people to watch !!!!!!
and of course you don't mention what the "right tool" is. Thanks for your insight. So informative.
Johnny's Reloading Bench
No shit.
WTH!!!! WTF are you, the world-renowned expert on everything?
Melicoy, what is wrong with what he did it worked great!
Do it right. Not sure if you have any experience repairs items but make sure all you tools are in proper working order. i.e. silicon tape on all fittings. Something to absorb the projectile. Look how many times he mucks about ..... Have it set up before you hit RECORD. unless you are doing this to increase watching time ???
The shell shooting out is normal. Hydraulics will do that.
JRB, hang an empty picture frame around the indent on the sheetrock and label it "life lessons help us grow"
Or take a picture and frame it. That way it can be framed in a better location.
I was waiting the whole time to see the damage from that.
I figured he uploaded the video, so serious injury was unlikely 😎
Everytime he pointed it at the camera...I was like dont point that thing at me! 😂
I second that. Don’t wide off the oil in the framed area either.
Hydraulic pressure is a real part mover, that's for sure.
Same thing happens with gun powder.
I know this an old video but Dave is the friend we all need in our lives.
People are usually surprised by the force exerted by pneumatics /hydraulics. Nice job man!
Never seen brass keyhole like that. Might need a tighter twist chamber... 😂
Chamber was a smooth bore...Johnny was going for subsonic...lack of stability...
That’s funny rythere!
jdh Oh jeez... gonna make me skip to the action...
hahaha your funny mister!
Well played.
Too bad you didn't chronograph the case. Lots of fun to watch.
Yup, I don't know how much penetration there would be but if it tumbled it would be a hell of a would track.@Think 4 Yourself
slowing the video down to 0.25x speed, you can see 1 frame with a super blurred case. assuming the video is showing about 3 inches of space, and the video is 1/24th a second, would mean a lower limit for the speed would be around 6 fps. ... not that impressive. But it could be faster though.
@@bermchasin it had to be going faster than 6fps to dent the wall. i can trow a casing faster than 6fps and it wont leave much of a mark.
I've thrown a glass cup at the wall before it dented the dry wall and bounced off without breaking, but that has more mass.
yes in slow motion as it bounced about the room destroying everything in its path!
Okay, as a retired military that did do some armory work in my earlier days with M-16's, I loved this. First thing I would have done after the case hit the wall was quickly wash the oil off, then frame the dent. Stories of this would be a lifetime worth of laughs.
Yes, the 90 zerk fittings have more of a chance of leaking. Having a spare barrel cap, weld the hole shut and threading it for the grease gun would have been the fastest, but having the welder is the spoiled toy to have around. Guilty as charged.
The oil as a hydraulic fluid was perfect as it easily flowed into the barrel and case once the bullet was pushed in. It also flowed easily enough to push the primer out and disarm a dangerous situation.
Having custom machined anything I need for more decades than I care to think about, this was great.
Thanks for a thought provoking and laughable video. MSgt David R. Smyth, USAF, Ret.
An old farmer told us how to pressure test a boiler the same way. Stay safe my friend, Tsgt Patrick S. Guseman USAFR, Ret. AKA “Goose”😎
As a Sgt. in the Army I did some armory work, and now build my own weapons. I would do the same with the cartridge imprint on the wall.
Thank you. I am a gunsmith and have never been confronted with this type of a stuck case problem. Now I know. I will make the adaptor on my lathe and configure it so I don't need a zerk fitting but remove the female zerk and thread the flex hose right into the adaptor. That way there will be no leak at the zerk fitting.
I wasn't expecting the shell to shoot out that hard! I'm sure there are better ways and all... but that was the coolest way.
Dan!! Fancy seeing you here
Hello dan
Wtf Dan doing here 😂
God concept. The cartridge ejected because of trapped gas/air that compressed in the bore and, possibly, in the cartridge. Good idea to keep the chamber end clear of people and breakables.
@@michaelwhitehurst1182 Yea, slight improvement would have been to fill the barrel with oil and purge the air out of the grease gun part first and then it wouldn't have shot out with such force once it finally broke free.
(on my daughters account) I was amazed at how much energy the departing jacket had, given the size of the primer hole. I've used a pneumatic grease gun to clear frozen pistons inside of various cylinders over the years with good luck - usually the slug just pushes out slowly. You are right in that you have to get every bit of air out of the grease/oil before true compression begins. Even a small amount of air puts you at a disadvantage. If you stand the barrel up for an hour, most of the air will rise to the top. The hard part is getting the air out of the grease before pumping it in... Once all the air is gone from the barrel, pretty much any fluid will apply pressure equally in all directions until a sealing surface reaches its limit.. In my younger, dumber days, I cleared the piston from a rare 50 + year old single-piston brake cylinder by filing the chamber space with distilled water, plugging the threaded holes with teflon taped bolts, and "for safety" suspended it inside of a small box made from bolted together 4x4s with the open end pointed (what I figured to be) safely down range. Heated it with a propane torch thru a hole in the safety box until the steam cycle got underway. At some point along the way, the piston departed the bore a lot like a shotgun slug (and about as loud as a 12 gage!) took a weird trajectory and traveled more what looked like a few hundred feet into the side of an old truck. The body of the cylinder was flush with the 4x4 but the wood had a pretty deep dent from the recoil. That's how I did wheel cylinders and master cylinders on vintage cars for 20 years till someone mentioned a grease gun would be a lot safer...
🤣🤣🤣Thanks!
Awesome, love the creative thinking, and the laugh when the case popped out, priceless!
Heck yaa just thread the end of the barrul and thred a grease zurk in { Best Hillbilly Voice lol }
@ultimatereloader how would you have done this ? / what was the cause of the case getting stuck like that ?
@@crea8ivjr Heat the barrel with a hair dryer and use a rod or the grease gun, gotten them out like that before with a bit of heat and a harden push rod, and always use some nut release oil , not dent in wall..,lol
@@douglasbattjes3991 they tried that first..... didnt work.... thus the 4 nicks in the throat from the steel rod
David deserves the positive reinforcement you gave him. He sounds like a good friend waiting to help if he can.
All together now. 1 2 3 4
DAVE IS GREAT, GIVE HIM CHOCOLATE CAKE !
Did you steal that line from Cosby?
David is that you trying to get cake? 🤔
I love how amused this guy is that there's a casing-shaped dent in his wall
MY wife would have locked me out of the house after that.
To be fair though. The shape that it left must have been "good" luck. I imagine that most of the time, it would have left an imperfect imprint or gotten stuck in the wall.
Dave is one heck of a guy and deserves that barrel. It was worth the price of admission just to hear your laugh when that sucker blew out of there! I think you should glue that brass to the wall and frame it!
That brass definitely needs a shoulder mount....
Glue it right in the mark it left in the wall.
Three incredible things I observed:
1) The use of motor oil was awesomely serendipitous because it was less viscous and able to work its way through every tiny opening in the casing looking for the path of least resistance. This enabled the pressure to get to the primer pin and push it out.
2) Once the primer was pushed out, the casing could "collapse" a little in diameter, and that is what allowed it to come loose under pressure. If the primer had stayed in, it was providing equal pressure from the center and not allowing the casing to "collapse" its diameter - it was helping it to hold its shape tight against the inside of the barrel. Once it was out, it made the difference, allowing the barrel to dictate to the casing a slightly less large diameter.
3) Again, with the oil pushing in every direction possible and working its way into every nook and cranny, I'm sure it also was able to push its way AROUND the outside of the casing and actually lubricate and slicken it, making it that much easier to exit once it reached the critical amount of pressure and the casing diameter had been diminished enough to be able to pop out.
Excellent work. You've got a sub from me, sir! Cheers!
I think the oil was a great idea. It was a good medium for penetrating around the case without having to clean all the grease out of the barrel afterwards.
In oilfield we used water to fill and get bubble voids out,, then start pumping non flammable hydraulic fluid,,, still would of popped out like that but with much less mess
@@timhouston2408 If there was air behind the bullet and it might have still been trapped. Which is where I suspect most of the air came from.
@@narr0wm1nd49 The bullet/projectile wasn't stuck, the brass was stuck.
I knew it was going to go like a cork gun. That casing impression & oil splatter is priceless. 😜🤣🤣
thank god he wasnt watching the casing fly out or leave his cam in line with it ! lol
Gryphon the splatter on the wall was the best part.
Course it was. He was pumping a LOT of pressure into that tiny space with a round acting like a cork. No way that ain't going flying. Only thing he coulda done to stop that is isolate the chamber end of that barrel in a box or something. It'd still go flying even with the heaviest oil imaginable but it would at least have been contained.
Great job....got the case out, nobody got hurt, people learned a lesson about hydraulics, a great lesson on stored energy (ask the wall) and maintained a good relationship with a talented machinist..plus gave each person good insight about proper case sizing.
I would recommend using a heavier weight oil and instead of using a zerk fitting I would thread in the grease gun hose
Wouldn't a grease gun work with water?
Seems like a simple and less messy solution?
@@aggese yes and no, you still have to use Grease in the pump because it's not built to pump low viscosity fluids but water would work instead of the oil but back flow of water could damage your Grease gun and you would have to make sure no water was in the barrel for oxidation. Fun fact water is used for some hydraulics in high temperature applications where you don't want fire
W= Winter, not weight.
@@theswedishpancakemaker173 are you serious?
@@WillBilly. Why wouldn't I be?
I never had any luck with a gunsmith solving my problem. As a machinist, I always ended up doing the job myself.
That is because there are to many armorers claiming to be gun smiths.
Ive had several "gunsmiths" ruin air pistols i brought in for warrenty service and had the nerve to ask.... Uh what did you say was wrong with your gun?
as I observed the deep dents that were smashed in the pump chamber from his crude vice he clamped it in
Gunsmiths seem to like tearing up fine wooden gunstocks in unprotected jaws of vices. Would they have done that if it was their own weapon?
My gunsmith was a tool and die maker fore forty years and I trust him with any problem I can come up with.
As a machinist can you make any of those fittings like dave did? I’d buy one
Pressure releases in the path of least resistance, fluids are considered non compressible, the pressure build up was from the extremely small amount of flex of the barrel expanding from the fluid forcing it outward as well as the brass and primer flexing. Think of it as an extremely strong spring that you slowly compress and all of a sudden release, the brass only had so much resistance to the force pushing it out, once that was met and exceeded the spring released and shot the brass across the room. You were right to try to get as much air out as possible but there would have been a small amount in the case, hence the bubbles after the primer pushed out. Air is compressible, thus adding to the spring force of the pressure build up. If you were able to use only grease the grease would not have shot across the room, unless there was air behind it, but the case still might have. I believe in this situation a combination of the kind and specific amount of resistance to movement of the case in the chamber, the friction between the case and the chamber, and a little bit of air caused the seemingly explosive exit of the case from the chamber. The key is that the case was released all at one time and did not push out slowly, I am used to pulling or pushing seized metal pins on dirt equipment, when a pin is stuck very hard using a hydraulic press we can remove the pin. There is so much friction from the added diameter from rust that the pin makes a loud bang the first few times it moves until the rust is broken up. This is what happened to you except the brass did not have anything else holding it in once it first moved. In terms of physics you applied kinetic energy to a system to hydraulically pressurize a cylinder storing up potentially energy in the cylinder until the coefficient of static friction of the case against the chamber was overcome, once that happened the coefficient of kinetic friction was not enough to stop or even really slow down the case as the pressure was released, in other words you should always take precautions of a sudden energy release when dealing with high pressure.
Yeah, there had to be some air in there.
My dad did hydraulics in the AF and told me when I was young that one drop of leaked fluid relieves all the pressure in an air free hydraulic system.
I love that this has nearly half a million views. The case shaped dent in his wall (in the middle of a totally satisfying splat, by the way) is worth every view.
If a “gunsmith” put a steel rod down that barrel, and bent it, he isn’t a gunsmith.
cal30m1 nicks were probably caused by steel rod
Only use Brass!!!! Around Steal
Yup, I'm only a beginner "Smith" and know that lol
Yeah, I cringed as soon as I heard "put a steel rod down the barrel". Brass, people!!!
@@bansheemania1692 gosh who knew steal was so cheap
dave needs to sell these, both to gun shops and us, id buy one
Me to🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️
I would too, I have a barrel with a squib bullet stuck in it. But it isn't threaded, it has been on the shelf for years as it is one of my old silhouette barrels and I just can't seem to get rid of it.
@@IWatchedWhat brass rod and a hammer should handle that
@@ryridesmotox we tried that, it is half way down and doesn't want to move. So I laid it aside, I will try it again one day.
@@IWatchedWhat If there is a way to warm the barrel enough while you try to remove the squib, that should help. I had a squib in a Ruger SP101 in .327. I was able to drill some of it out, then the last part that had the brass casing, I used a propane torch lightly to heat the cone. That was enough to push it out.
Hi, Johnny. The mark the casing made in the wall tells it all. It was worth the wait! Thanks for the vid and thanks to Dave for contributing the fittings you needed. It was great when the primer busted loose. It was awesome when the cartridge let go! Thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
I love that you laugh about oil everywhere and a dent in the wall. This was a great video and that is one hell of a grease gun!
The shot of your wall made me laugh harder than I’ve laughed in a VERY long time! That was greatness...
This was a terrific video to watch - 4 yrs later 😂
You, sir, are most certainly not an idiot!
🙏
Some guy out there is going to watch this and think "That's almost the right amount of lube to use on an AR. Just a touch more and you'd be there.." 😂
Adding a grease zirt to my rail ASAP.
@@zinfendal0 remove forward assist, install zerk fitting! Get Dave on the job making the adapter. We'll patent it and make millions!!!
😂
@Walter Sobchak - Well, AR's do like to be run wet...😆
@Phillip Cameron run them so wet you have to wear goggles to keep the grease out of your eyes.
So it seems that the type of grease gun you use is very important. I tried this technique using an M3A1 grease gun, and it actually made my problem much worse.
HA HAHA i hope u still have your ARMS!!!
Thanks Dave! The great news is now WE have fitting to use if WE ever get a stuck round...just give Johnny a jingle. signed That Guy.
Put the grease zerk on last after the adapter is attached to the barrel and both filled up. Fill with oil from the shell upward with a long piece of small tubing attached to the syringe, i.e. no air in the barrel. Your local lube shop may have a pneumatic greaser that could pump that stuck round out in a jiffy. PS: I have lots of free advice ;-)
Dave, I will take one in 1/2 and 5/8! Great piece of kit for my gunsmith tool box! I will pay!
For real. My first thought was "this is really an untapped market. Somebody could make some bank turning these."
Thats awesome! My first thought is, "I would remove that coupler from the grease gun, eliminate the zerk fitting and screw the hose straight to that adapter. Good work man.
Yessir that swhat i was thinking too...the cheaper gun may have dont the trick
Backyard Archer You need the grease-zerk because it’s spring and ball valve holds the pressure in the barrel and doesn’t overload the grease-gun hose.
idk if they wanted to use the grease gun for anything else, but oil shooting back up into it might not be good.
Ditto.
Thomas Schwenneker the zerk wasn’t needed. The only thing that serves any purpose far was when pushing grease in with the lever that it would hold that maximum pressure from pressing the lever pushing grease in. And holding it in When the lever was let go of when the lever was let go of. since it’s basically a check valve. Otherwise the most pressure that could’ve been within that barrel was the amount of pressure he could’ve applied through the lever. Because each press of the lever raise the pressure but the max would’ve been at the point where he could not press the lever hard enough to overcome the ball in the zerk. And any press prior to that last one that pressure is on that hose anyway. The benefit of the zerk was to trap and hold the pressure that he was able to exert from the lever of the grease gun into the barrel and hold it there. And with anything that has force applied to it what fails first is the weakest link. So it was only of a matter of time. And is why that fitting mattered for that. To not have had to crank down on the lever of the grease gun and hold it and hold it until the weakest link finally failed which was the case stuck in the barrel
You got her done!! As far as that case flying out it was caused by compressed air. Liquids do not compress a significant amount, air however compresses very easily. The air was somewhere in the equation between the back of the case up to and including the hose of the grease gun right to the piston . A good quality lever grease gun will produce around 10,000 psi, that one you had can realistically make around 5000 psi. Can create quite a projectile with some air in the enclosure.
As a Pneumatic and Hydraulic Mechanic for the last 35 years I Agree
I love how much you care for your viewers and the self sacrifice you go through
THE SUSPENSE WAS AWESOME!
Whenever this video pops up I can’t help but watch it!!!!!!! I love how happy you get when the brass shoots out of the barrel!!!!! And the shape of the dent is the wall is awesome! Johnny I just want thank you for all the great info over the years. You got me into reloading! Have a great weekend!
We had this happen a few times with my m4. I found the best way to clear the obstruction was to squirt lubricant down the barrel until it came out the bottom. Then I stuff the barrel with a bit of fabric. Then I connect several cleaning rods together and stick them into the barrel, then I hold onto the barrel and repeatedly slam the cleaning rod into the ground. That always works pretty quickly. The round pops out within 2 to 3 minutes of tapping it.
Great video! One way to save a bit would be to use a grease hammer that would cost around $8. And your gift back to Dave was perfection!
Im a retired gun smith of 30 years and I injoyed this veido your freind dave is a good freind and machinist to design this for you that he could east adapt for stuck cartrige cases in a die set and sell both for a good profit, He is a talented man . Keep making veidos the most advanced products on the market come from people like you and your freind Dave , I myself would buy this product if he so decided to make them. thank you.
The "gunsmith" who took a hammer to the steel rod to try to pound it out is a HACK and should be avoided at all costs. :(
I remember letting out an audible groan when I heard Johnny say he let that gunsmith do that. Under no circumstances should a steel rod be anywhere near a bore. I think if he were to use the hydraulic pump first the barrel would be in mint condition still.
The gunsmith didn't use a hammer. I was the one to use a hammer. I beat the snot out of it with a cleaning rod before resorting to taking it to the smith. The gunsmith had some sort of fixture for his lathe. I didn't see it, and I don't know anything about lathes anyway, so I can't be more specific.
Johnny's Reloading Bench doesn’t matter really, you really overcomplicated just firing the round and then inserting a rod and knocking the casing out of it . Hopefully you overcomplicated this for a video series on how to overcomplicate anything.
@@do4267 i don't know about that. i thought the same thing initially. so, let's say the round doesn't fully seat, he hammers the forward assist effectively wedging it fantastically. tries to remedial action and it breaks a piece of the rim off. ok, now you dismantle the whole barrel, clamp it down and simply hit the primer with something pointy. that brass is going to expand even harder into that chamber, flow backwards a bit, stretch, thin out where it isn't supported. try to knock the brass out now and you'll just shear the whole back end of the casing off. then where are ya?
Daniel Osborne it clearly wasn’t seated fully, observe the casing scuffing
Dave is a man every bro needs and appreciates.
Elastic expansion is a fun thing to play with. This was a good video to demonstrate a good way to show how the way to do this.
Dave should sell those grease gun connectors............that was amazing.
I opened up the comments to say the same thing.
Having dealt with high pressure oil and 5in gun systems in the past, I'm not sure you could have stopped that round (casing) from an energetic release. There is a significant amount of air in that case. I think you did the best you could have in the situation. Loved the video.
Been skipping over this in my feed for a week, now I'm glad i watched it.
Awesome! Congrats and thanks for painstakingly taking the effort of letting us witness your trials. This is my favorite channel on RUclips.
This is my absolute favorite Johnny video. I'm late to dinner, and I dont care! I share your joy brother!
My son and I love the fricken fricken fricken episode....classic jrb
Same here,I love this sh*t! His reaction was priceless when the casing came out! Hahaha
Have had to do the same thing with antique 90 year old outboards with frozen pistons. Biggest thing is to get out as much air as you can and pump slow and consistent. Glad you got it out! Love the dent, Frame it!
Probably no way to confirm it, but I'm thinking the divots near the start of the lands came from the steel rod the gunsmith used to try and hammer the cartridge out. Same thing with the small dings near the crown.
Whatever it didn't seem to matter. A good barrel is a tough thing to kill lol.
I think so to, but with a little shooting they will smooth out
They probably came from my initial beating on it with a cleaning rod and hammer. The gunsmith used more refined methods.
"I really should have a vice for this, but I'm an idiot." - I relate to this statement on a fundamental level. Subscribed. :D
"vise" Unless you're talking about bad habits.
Which ever vice you are talking about we all can relate to it.
Lol. I relate to _all_ those comments.
Great content. Wonderful community. Subscribe and notifications set for "All."
Lesson learned, most people take them for granted but glad you resolved the issue and didn’t give up.
Take zert out. Remove fitting off the hose and screw hose directly onto barrell fitting
*zerk
@@xenonram dork hes talking about how to bang prince zert of the glagon space union
my thoughts exactly
The zerk acts as a one way ball valve.
@@dangertrebor armchair mechanics,,,,,,,
I cheered out loud when that case came out! YES! Great work Johnny's Gunsmithing Bench.
I gave you a big thumbs up because you were honest and showed the unintentional double shot. People watching these videos need to see the honesty. Thank you sir.
Awesome man, I'm surprised the barrel wasn't damaged after having the round shoved in so hard. It was cool seeing the oil disarm the round and then pop the whole thing out without breaking anything.
Finally. Nice vid. We were pulling for you and the sight of the primer popping out was really cool.
I feel like it's the twilight zone because of how much you talk about a simple enough job
Some people like a longer from video style and not 30 second clips
How to remove stick case with grease gun
*pulls out M3*
not gonna lie, that's kinda what I was expecting from the title... heh
@@hazerdoescrap you have no idea how disappointed I am with this video rn...
I fully admit to having an 'O that grease gun' moment.
Perfectly classic
Nice, just eliminate the zerk and run the hose straight to the fitting Dave made ya. Awesome that it worked.
I don't know everything by far , but is the grease gun threaded?
Yes the grease gun is threaded but without the zerk for the check valve function there's no way to build pressure with each pump
@@alwayssomething3259 A Hah! I knew there had to be a reason why he didn't " just eliminate the zerk" as some people said who ,obviously didn't have the experience with such things.Easy to criticize if you don't know what you're talking about. Kinda like calling "Saving Private Ryan" the "...best war movie ever made!". Youngsters.
@@paulwilliams8555 There is also issues with just which threads. Standard grease fitting is 1/4 inch by 28 threads per inch. Long forgotten what is on the end of the flex hose,but I do not think it is that. You only need one ball check valve to get the grease to move as it should. As I recall,there is one in the fitting that grabs the Zerk with the three fingers. I would have to buy a new gun with all the bits I prefer as extras to figure out how to get down to just one ball check valve. Take all to bits and make note of the whatzits I never paid attention to before. Just goes to show,it is really easy to reinvent the wheel and add extra items someone else thought of already a long time ago.
This was a good episode. I thought that really thin motor oil was a mistake,straight 30 weight being thicker,I was wrong. Pushed the bullet down and soaked the powder. The instant that happened, the safety factor went WAY up. And thin enough to push the primer out. No man can know everything. This worked out well,and safely. I enjoyed it. Made me think.
@@paulwilliams8555 yes most commonly threaded in 1/8 inch pipe thread. Hard lines or hoses can be attached to them as long as they are rated for the pressure produced by the gun.
It’s the simple things that are ABSOLUTELY genius. Love how a fellow gun advocate turned some threads for his fitting. I wonder how a person could build the PSI required to blow a stick round out the breech if the barrel is non-suppressed/ non-threaded. Such a damn good idea!
Think expanders. 4 sided split nut that expands when pulled out like a Chinese finger trap.
The marks in the barrel were likely caused when your gunsmith friend tried to drive the stuck round out. You said earlier that he bent the rod trying to get the round out!
If the rod bent, that means its mild steel, aka very low carbon steel. A rifle barrel is hardened high carbon steel. Low carbon mild steel isn't going to do shit to high carbon hardened steel. This is entirely the reason why steel hardening is even a thing.
When it comes to fittings, always go with the simplest, most direct fitting you can. Additional pieces just cause issues.
His machinist friend could have just tapped the adapter 1/8 pipe thread, then the grease gun would have threaded directly onto it.
Great way to remove a stuck round, great outcome, great way to thank Dave. Really enjoyed the video.
the air in the grease was not the problem.
the bubbles at the muzzle needit to work thru all of the mass of the oil.
as a tip for next time/ user.
have have a pump rod or something solid to fill the barrel.
u will not need as much oil and if the round moves just a bit u will have a way bigger pressure drop.
I wonder if 10,000 psi would unstick a lodged bullet? Ask Dave to sell us somenif those, just in case..
Definitely give the barrel to Dave! Least you can do for a hero!
I agree... Dave should get the barrel.
SEND THAT BARREL TO DAVE!!
Very good video. I have seen videos of people straightening dented 2 stroke motor cycle exhaust pipes using pressurized water and it worked great. Same principle.
A proper sized wooden dowel barrel half full if grease or 90w turned upside down drop it on the dowel piston action shock pops em right out
Bread works too. Old timey engineer trick for removing blind fitted bearings.
@@shakingmyhead7707 same as the grease method. Just poke the bread in the inner race hole and really pack it in there, then use a snug-ish fitting shaft to press it in further. More bread until you have built up enough hydraulic pressure and it'll force the bearing out towards you. Uncle Bumblefuck did a video on it a while back too.
Jump to 5min, same thing works with bread. Good bet for winning some extra beers.
ruclips.net/video/w62c4NQDwP0/видео.html
@@prdoohan was about to say, so you been watching ave a few years too huh? Haha.
@@donzmilky5961 Haha yep! . But I did know the trick before, I'm a machinist/toolmaker and my foreman showed me during my apprenticeship.
@@prdoohan i knew the greasy rag trick before ave, but never thought of bread, the sanwich afterwards tastes like shit but you get used to it haha.
Been watching his videos since like 2011.
That was really fun to watch! Before you bought that 2nd grease gun, I was yelling "replace the zerk first"! 😆 DIY is the way to go.
Dave needs to produce these!
While I was watching this... every time you said “I should have used a vise”, I kept saying you need a bucket to put the chamber in... I don’t think anything would have reduced the pressure of the round flying out the way that it did.
Great educational video!
LOL...Best video yet...As a machinist I knew that pressure had to go somewhere, I was just waiting for the round (brass) to shot out of that barrel and hopefully not break the camera. Nice dent in the wall. I wish you had your Magneto speed strapped on to give us the velocity of that brass coming out. Glad your OK . Next time use ATF (automatic transmission oil) or hydraulic oil.
What difference would the atf or hydraulic oil make?
Kevin Arnold ...ATF or hydraulic oil tend to take pressure and foam less. Cavitation (micro air bubbles) from a spinning torque converter can cause pitting and failure from bubbles. ATF or hydraulic oil take the pressure better. Oils are engineered for specific uses.
@@casevideo9880 I just don't see the advantage in this situation. It would seem to me that the properties of atf and hydraulic oil over motor oil have to do with flow under pressure where here there was only pressure, there is no way to create cavitation in this situation from what I see. I'm not saying you are wrong i just don't understand what the difference would be when the only real difference they would have is a very slight difference in comprehensibility.
Kevin Arnold Hydraulic oil, ATF, or Silicone brake fluid would be best. Motor oil is not intended for high pressure, thus the foaming and cavitation. You don’t need movement for cavitation, just air bubbles forming... due to pressure or pressure drop. Motor oil is for motors and lubrication for friction. ATF, Hydraulic oil, or Silicone brake fluid is made for pressure.
I'm not sure if it would work but, what if a fitting for an air coupling were used? Maybe a pressure valve to slowly add psi and no need for oil or grease. Would it be enough psi at the standard 125psi to get it out?
When the gunsmith bent his rod, I'm betting he pushed the bullet into the case. That's why the prime came out first.
I honestly don't see the rod method ever working. If the case is stuck, pushing on the bullet will just compress the bullet onto the powder and push the brass onto the barrel tighter.
@@gabrielemagnabosco8926 a brass rod and a sharp strike on a warmed case works on case some times. But its better to use this method with a lathe no thread to attamchment is needed
I’ve done it with an empty case (end of the rod is inside the case and won’t scrape up the bore as bad that way too) and had good luck, I’ve also used a steel rod for tapping a slug through to get the land and groove dimensions, but the bore was so large there wasn’t much of a risk of hitting the rifling. I think doing it on a loaded round would be incredibly sketchy. And might ding your rifling.
From my experience with these issues with getting a round logged in the barrel a ram rod just presses the lead in a way that makes it just expand tighter in the barrel. Kind of like how a rivet works. I've bent heat treated steel rods and had to resort to using a very long drill bit
Your echo when you shoot without the can sounds like the movie HEAT
This was the first video of yours that I have watched almost a year ago now I think I have watched almost every one of your vids and now I’m a patreon supporter. Keep up the good work man.
The grease gun trick can be used for many things! Popped some broken hardened dowels out of holes that had too tight of an interference fit out of hardened steel before and they definitely move after popping out. Get a new and improved high-tech fleece bullet stop so you don't have to use clean and painted sheetrock next time ;)
Use an o-ring to seal the mating faces. (Put an o-ring counter-bore on that tool face to seal it to the barrel face). There is still a minor amount of air in all liquids. That air has to compress. The same thing will happen to the hydraulic fluid in a ram/cylinder in a press (that air compresses). You also have a flexible hose that will expand due to pressure and it will release that stored energy when the stuck bullet gets dislodged, etc.
The cylinder on the tip of the grease gun rotates and makes the opening bigger or smaller just like a common electric drill. Loosen to attach or remove and tighten during grease pumping. No need to fight attaching and removing for those who may not know. Hope this helps.
I never had a dull moment watching this video, Johnny kept the whole process described what was the plan, what he was doing and what was happening, t'was a blow by blow announcement.
I'm dying over here, LMFAO! First time I've ever seen a bullet shoot out of the wrong end of a gun barrel!
Hey, Johnny. I tend to come back to this vid every once in a while, since it really was a unique problem and unique solution. Just realized it hit 1 mil! Congrats!
14:35 is a good place to start if you just came for the removal
galilred89 much appreciated
Thanks.
Not me !
Why eat a cake without ice cream...?
I came for a five course meal and ain't leaving till i'm full ...
Your time must be so precious. Speaking for myself, I watch JRB and enjoy the whole experience.
I’ve met a black powder shooter at the range that’ll use this same method to remove a double charge from his muzzle loader.
He said he removes the cap nipple and screws in a zerk. Pumps the barrel full of grease until the obstructions are out.
Glad everything worked out.
I had this happen in an Armalite barrel. I just bought a new one also but it was only 250$......suddenly my problem doesn't seem so bad now. Great video.....people may laugh but you did it the safest way I think. I would have never thought of that though....good idea.
Thanks for sharing this! You are lucky to have a friend like Dave!
THAT WAS AWESOME, and you did not blow your face off!
Johnny this is killing me. Being in mechanics and machining I keep yelling at my phone "pipe threads dont need teflon, get a pneumatic greese gun, ugghh." Great job though. My wife came in and said "jesus leave the guy alone". Thanks for video.
Super smart! Reminds of something AvE would do.
That adapter is skookum as frig.
Watch the video where he cut apart hotdogs with high pressure grease
Exactly what I was thinking. I used the phrase "Release the schmoo!" When it finally flew out.
iam going to call that adapter "AR-BUTT-PLUG-ENEMA-THINGY"
My little girl cackled like a banshee when the case popped out. Good stuff.
I saw the dent in the wall and immediately hit the "subscribe" button. That was... awesome.
The amount of sexual innuendo in this video is astonishing.
10 pumps in, still no leakage here on my end. 😂😂😂
Giggity
As long as its innuendo and not inmyendo
I'm glad you gave that barrel to the guy who made that fitting for you. Right move. I'm glad everything worked out for you! love your channel. Your voice and cadence kind of reminds me of the "This Old Tony" RUclips channel. Great work, i hope you keep it up!
I'm late to this video, but I think it's been very educational.
Giving the barrel to Dave is the best choice, and should try to talk Dave into producing those, even if it's a custom made, I'm sure he will have plenty of customers, I would buy one just as a insurance policy.
I really enjoy your channel, as a new subscriber I find your information indispensable, I'm new to 6.5 grendel and creedmoor and really enjoy them.
Thanks for your information and detail to the reloading community.
This must be the funniest video yet. I was rooting and laughing the whole time!!!! Midway will be offering this next fall!!!!
Or www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/
I know a old post, but used a grease gun before to unstick old hit and miss antique engine pistons. Reminded me of a 7hp Faultless engine that 2 farmers tried to unstick, for 2 yrs, before they thought they suckered Dad, when he bought it. Imagine a 5" piston 10" stroke and at least 2 cases of cheap grease and 1 gallon of used diesel oil, the crank was in a position we couldn't unbolt it, when it let go , after sitting all night with pressure on , it jumped with a loud bang about a 1/4"!! We got it running, even used the original rings, found very little wear on engine. Unbelievable how much pressure a cheap grease gun can build, seen other collectors blow the combustion chamber top out on headless engines before!!
That....was...........AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!
I was hoping you'd move it outside due to the mess that was sure to occur. It made for an even better video though!!!!.... Dave you kick ass, and I'll be needing one just to have. Sweetness, and on to some more vids.
I used that process to get a bushing out of a crankshaft .
Transmission input shaft bushing, aka clutch pilot bushing ?
I've heard of that technique.
Loved the video !
I use a brass,or mild steel rod,that just loosely fits into the case neck,and bottoms on the primer area,and sticks out of the muzzle end about 2.5".
Then I use a shop press,and SLOWLY pump it.
It usually lets go after 2-3 pumps,and doesn't hurt the barrel.
Now the ATF is going to ban grease guns lol Nice video bro.
lets hope they dont ban the video for teaching children the new potenial of a deadly grease gun
LOL
Just high pressure grease guns , the regular ones are ok !
Didn’t age well
You could use a pressure washer and install the pressure washer head fitting into the piece.
That's a better idea than what he did because compressing petroleum causes combustion..I realize there wasn't much air inside that barrel but it could have detonated.jyst sayin
@@tomrose6292 depends on the oil, if he used hydraulic oil its not going to go with the pressure he put in same as the Grease. But if he used normal oil he might have also dieseled his barrel
Never seen it done that way before. Pretty cool. I love the "im an idiot" comment. Can't tell you how many times I've said that to myself. Love the enginuity. The scratches are almost surely from the guy that jammed the rod in there.