This guy deserves a few rude comments. He says he sometimes uses 2x10 cabinet because there isn't enough room for a 4X10. An 8x10 takes up the same floor space as a 2X10. How simple minded does he think his listeners are? I haven't accepted a gig that gear had to be carried upstairs or downstairs since I was in high school. Who is hard up enough for a gig to do that?
Thank You! I'm 55 and always wanted to play the bass guitar. I'm considering my options as a beginner. The discussion of impedance was very helpful. It took me back to my college days. I'll be checking out all you videos. Again, thank you so much.
hey man if your just starting you should look at a combo amp!!! they are literally hundreds of dollars cheaper. as in the cheapest you can get at guitar center right now is $500 for a head and cab and they are literally bottom of the barrel brands but on the other hand you can get the fender rumble 25 for $100 and it will sound very good and give you plenty of sound if your just learning alone (i would often have my whole family yelling at me when its only at half volume), but if you are playing with friends maybe go for the rumble 40 same great sound with substantially more power but its $200. Another hint is that if you are playing with other players you should have around 3-4x their wattage, this isnt the rule but its a good general guideline. Good luck!!
I really would NOT say that 12" and 15" speakers get muddy. Some of them can, probably... I mainly use 12" for bass. never had problems with them. Most of them have a nice mid voiced tone and they can move a whole lot of air! Think about a 4x12" =)
I run an Ampeg SVT 4 Pro, using the internal crossover to run everything above about 800 Hz to 1kHz into a 4 x 10" w/ a horn, and everything below this into a cabinet with an 18" Electro-Voice. I have never heard the words, "mud," or, "muddy," even spoken in the building. Most of the time I'm just playing an all original 1983 Fender P bass American. I get compliments on my tone from fans of all genres. I primarily play metal, but jazz, blues, funk, a wide variety of rock, even played a couple R&B studio gigs (old school 1970's stuff, what I think of when I hear the term, "R&B," but that's just me), and a few country live gigs, when money wasn't flowing for me many years ago, have been played through that rig. My most recent metal band, about a year and a half ago, told me after my first jam with them, my defacto tryout, that it was the best bass tone they'd ever heard. When I brought my 1992 Ibanez, loaded with EMG PJ- X pickups and the BQC system preamp and pots, two weeks later, they corrected themselves on the new, "best bass tone they'd ever heard." Personally, I thought they were blowing smoke up my ass, and paying me false compliments, but they insisted on how they were serious. The point is, any bass rig can sound muddy, if there's enough factors creating muddy tone: the hands creating the player's technique (or picking if using a pick?), or the player's ear doesn't know any better, yet, the bass itself, even rolling off too much on the knobs/pots, especially if it's got active electronics or EQ and someone starts turning knobs they don't understand, then bad cables, really cheap cables, or needlessly long cables can contribute to mud, then finally, the amp and cab(s) can contribute to muddy tone as well, but unless it's a REALLY low quality amp or cab, anyone who's reasonably knowledgeable at how to dial in an amp can get a bass tone that's not muddy. I never even knew that was a concern until I started watching RUclips videos about 5 years ago. Best advice: play, listen, experiment, play, listen, experiment, etc. And learn from others (who know what they're talking about, some don't).
True, you just have to dial in your tone differently - I bought a used Peavey PVH 212, and LOVE it (but in TGC store, it did indeed sound muddy, even through a MarkBass head - when I upped the treble & took down the bass, it was warm and clean, but has a tendency to be a bit dark - which I love, because, metal blues:-)
oh how we long for the good ole days back in the 70's when we would get on stage with big giant ampegs and marshall stacks that we taller than we were. still have nightmares about unloading those things at 5 in the morning after the shows. LOL!!! great video keep it up!!
I still play with an Ampeg, because it sounds so good. I leave my 810 cab at home though. The 212 is plenty loud, especially with FOH support. And it sounds just as awesome.
Far too much emphasis on the weight of gear these days. People used to drag hammond b3/leslie and big tube amps wthout roadies. Oh how did they survive?
I'm not a fan of wheels or castors on Gear, which besides making a hole in something that is designed to not have additional area removed, usually aren't Lockable and will start to roll backwards on the smallest of inclines. I also don't like automatically decoupling from the Stage Floor depending if it's hollow or not, which can cause the type of low-end "boominess" that Sound Techs can only control by lowering the Bass practically out of the FOH (if I need to control that, I'll do it myself with my Auralex GRAMMA). IMO I think one of the many transformable 8-in-1 "Transport Carts" which can be repositioned into a Transport Cart to a "Furniture Dolly" to a 2-Wheeled Handtruck (and usually multiple-sized versions of each, for single-person set-ups or "Large Band w/ Horns carrying their own PA) is a much better choice: I personally use and recommend the Rock N Roller-brand "Multi-Cart" line of transporters. Firstly, depending on the size one can usually bring their ENTIRE load-in & out in a single trip, which eliminates leaving a pile of expensive gear in the venue or by your car as you go to get the second half and the rest of your bandmates doing the same when no one notices some guy that was maybe helping was in actuality making off with your Gear (true story: a Guitarist friend I'd worked with on several projects had a 1972 Gibson Les Paul Recording, early '90s Gibson Les Paul Standard & Fender American HSS Stratocaster stolen after a Gig in NYC right out of this scenario). You can also make the horror of a basement or 2nd Floor gig far easier as just about all of these can be used as a Handtruck instead of needed 2/3 people and eliminate the danger of a dropped-and-tumbling cabinet. So do yourself a favor and invest in the $60-$150 range (beyond that is just larger models that can honestly take up too much space even when folded up for transportation in your car) and just make sure you get one with inflatable Rear Wheels and not Molded Solid Plastic or Rubber-type material: going up-or-downstairs or anything but totally dry outside ground will thank you for it!
+Ian Perge Castors don't necessarily have to be on the bottom of a cab, seen alot of bass cabs with them on the side so you still get the coupling effect while having the portability.
that's 10 centimeters correct that would be quite small my cabinet is a neo 4-10 no vents and the wheels just pull out so you can put it on the ground I use a 500 watt true rms head it's loud enough I have always been a fan of raising up the cabinet better sound even when I was using 2 15 inch EV prolines in single 15 cabinets it just tends to blend better than being a sub woofer when it has contact with the floor
I would say don't worry about the weight unless you're just playing shows constantly. Nothing beats an Ampeg tube amp. As for cabinets, I prefer smaller speakers. They give a tighter sound. Right now I have an 810, which never leaves my house, and a 212, which I use for gigs. But honestly, I could go even smaller on gigs. A 112 or a 210 would be fine. Every place I've played since the '90s has full front-of-house support. You don't need a loud amp.
Hey Thanks for "clearing up" that whole 4 ohm/ 8 ohm thing. No one's ever broken it down so that I can understand it like you just did, Thanks a lot Bro.
I have a Peavey Vb 2 Tube bass head at 225 watts and a Hartke 410 cabinet at 400 watts. I love my setup! It has great tone and warmth and is great for any style of music. The tube amp is very loud and sounds amazing! The big drawback I have is that my rig is very heavy but I pretty much keep this rig in one place and mainly use it for rehearsals, practice, and recordings.
This video is golden!! I can't tell you how much you have really helped me both musically and gear wise. Everything was so clearly explained and now I have better knowledge on ohms, heads and cabs. Thank you for sharing your knowledge to help us noobies. You are a great bass inspiration to me.
Good video and advice! One thing to keep in mind , for optimum even speaker power distribution for a 6X10 setup, a head that is capable of 2ohm load is most efficient. The setup i have is like yours only difference is my 2x10 cab is 8ohm and my 4x10 cab is 4ohm , total impedance 2.67 ohm, even power distribution to each cone. They say that matching cabs are the way to go , so say 2 410 cabs @ 8ohms , would be optimum , so it will run at 4 ohm , which most amps can handle , without a sweat. When i gig , small coffee house gigs get my single 210(8ohm) 400 watts , bigger shows get my single 410( 4 ohm) 800 watts, using my Gk MB fusion amp( 4 ohm minimum load) . And when i want balls to the walls output , i'll run both cabs(2.67 ohm total) but with my mesa walkabout amp, which can do minimum 2 ohm. Also , if i may request a video that showcases amp settings as a guideline. I have found that there not enough videos floating around RUclips explaining how to use amp eq's and or compressor, limiter's. Wish i had RUclips when i first started playing bass , what a great resource of information and entertainment. Anyhow great channel and keep up the great work ! Cheers!
Hi Marcelo..I am 61 and have always run original SVT's from 1974 and built my own cabs with JBL K-140's and E-140's ( all 15's ) and I'd port the cabs to JBL specs, but still use my own cab designs. I can't get raw JBL speakers anymore, maybe they closed down the Northridge plant, I don't know. I had an Ampeg refrigerator cab 8-10 too. Well...I am over all that big equipment now, because I do like the micro amps, not just cause of lighter weight, but the amount of power available for sizeable gigs, and mainly because they DO sound good. Bottom line is, ...the way the companies are making bass amps now...you can get your prefered bass tone out of any one of these amps now days, so just grab one you like and go.
I always run a clean DI from my, then a second through my pedalboard and post eq DI from my head, and blend the two. That was when I use envelopes ect it's still phat in the low end.
If you play stoner, doom, sludge or similar music, always go with 15" speakers. Preferably large sized 2x15" with lots of power or two quality cabs. 8x10" is OK too, but I personally hate the dispersion with that.
For a "what bass amp should I buy" primer for both someone new to bass and making the right investment and the working bassist and the scenarios they will encounter at venues, this video hits on all the right points. I would refer people to this video for a concise explanation. Brands, speaker sizes, etc. are rightly left to buyer's own ears for their application and budget. I always buy gently used to get the most for my dollar. Some of the comments below criticizing this video should be ignored. Sure, they may be factually correct but the points they are arguing are really left to the buyer to determine what's best for them. Nice job "Bass Wizard"!
Dear BW, I bought my first ampeg in 72. I have seen countless tutorials. You are right at the top of clarity and very concise. Well done young man well done. k
"Lightweight" cabs and class D heads. Having played--oh so many years back--an Acoustic B360/361 (with an 18" woofer and folded horn), I share Marcelo's pain and enthusiasm. Just recently purchased a Quilter Bass Block 800 class D, and matched it with a pair of 2x10s. The power out/decibel level is astonishingly loud yet clear and rich/deep.
I use a vintage fender bassman with the dual showman 215 cabinet for my house or very large gigs. For regular shows, I’ll use either my old BXR 300 with an ampex tube preamp and a 115 cabinet or I’ll use my BXR 60 combo with the tube preamp. The 60 is a 1x12 combo.
RE: Your comments about impedance affecting output @5:25. It is true that a Class D amp will halve its output when the impedance is doubled and so for maximum volume the lowest load allowed (usually, but not necessarily 4ohms) should be used. Again, for people that don’t know, using two 8ohm cabs in parallel will create a 4ohm load. But, other types of amp won’t respond in the same way. A class A/B amp (like the Orange OB1 series) won’t drop output at quite the same rate as class D, so whereas a 500W class D amp might operate at a maximum of 250W at 8ohms a 500W class A/B amp might run into the same load at 300-350W. These numbers are for purposes of illustration, you need to talk to the manufacturer about a specific amp if you want to know how it will behave.
Great explanation. I am just an apprentice and got a Markbass CMD JB Players School Amp. It supports 150 W at 8 Ohm and 300W with another cabinet. Really simplified things for me. Thanks.
been playing guitar for years thought I would try my hand at Bass, wanted to learn a little about bass amps. Your video was clear and extremely informative to me, thank you.
Very comprehensive answer - thanks! Most answers to questions like this are "oh, well it really depends on your budget and needs...vagueness....vagueness....budget...needs....mostly budget but also needs...more vagueness". It is very frustrating.
You say that 'if you want 2 cabinets, you've got to make sure they're both 8 ohms', for anyone reading, that's not strictly true, some bass amps can do a 2 Ohm load, so you can use two 4 ohm 8x10 or 2x15 cabinets if you're wanting to get crazy with it. Some of these include Ampeg SVT, Marshall VBA400, old school Peavey gear like the Mark IV, a lot of PA power amplifiers do 2 ohm loads as well.
Ohm is a measure unit for describing resistance. And so with a higher resistance, you will have less power flowing through from amp to cab. So if you have two cabs rated 8 Ohms, then because there are two power-consuming units (cabs), the amp will be able to distribute at full capacity (4 Ohm) Just like if you were using just one 4 Ohm cab.
You can plug two 4 ohm cabs into a 4 0hm blackface late '60s Bassman with no problems. Leo designed his amps for a 100% mismatch with no chance of failure. I've plugged a 2-15" 4 ohm and a 2-12" 4 ohm Bassman cab into one with no problems. Of course this is an 'old school' tube amp. You can't believe the volume for 50 watts of vacuum tube. It's insane.
I have two Mesa Boogie heads. The Prodigy and the new Class D Subway. In my humble opinion, the Subway is the best bang for the buck. It's made in the USA and it's come closer to my Prodigy than any Class D amp I've tried. It's 800 watts at 4 ohms and 400 at 8 ohms and will go to 2 ohms. I'm using an Eden 4X10 Neo. It's easy on my 65 year old back.
We have played at some places and I only had them DI my amp once because I didn’t like the sound that came out to the crowd. Now I ask for them to mic my 410.
The Ampeg micro series 2x10 is a great cab ,easy to move ,will sound great with any head .10 s are the way to go ,anything bigger get muddy if playing more than 2 notes and if the volume is up where it should be in the mix ..Nothing sounds as good as a tube head but if you are not recording go light weight with the head also check out the whole micro Ampeg around $325 for the head and 2x10 cab ..i have the Ampeg V4B head 6x10 HLF cab .and the micro 2x10 cab sounds great with the V4B head and with the Ashdowm mag 300 head which is solid state and has a DI output on the front .I hope this helps .Good Luck with Playing !
best thing is to compare cabnets and amp with your ears. but easier said than done because most stores have little bass gear. my 610 ampeg is more muddy and boomy than my hartke 115, and some 410 can be very harsh in the high end with some amps. some time mixing cabnets is bad some times you can make it work.
Charlie_33 That should work fine. The power rating on the cab is the amount of power that the speakers can handle so provided that cab is rated higher than the head (which in the example you give it is) it should be fine. Technically, you could run a more powerful head into a lower power cab so long as you don’t turn the volume up to a point where the head is outputting more than the cab can handle, but that’s taking a risk.
I own the SWR Go Light 4-10 cab. I always put it on the floor , with no dolly, the floor contact gives it more Bass kick. It is A Great sounding cab. , its light, but bulky. I play a lot and most clubs are small these days, so I am looking to go with a 2-10 cab. Not sure what is out there now that is as good sounding as my SWR GoLight.
livebass Revolt Yes, that is very true. Ideally you do want it flat on the floor with no wheels or dolly. The sound reflects off the floor and give you more bottom end. If you live in an apartment with downstairs neighbors, you want the opposite, since the vibration on the floor will lead to noise complaints haha I have the SWR Go Light cabs too. I actually have both the 4-10 and the 2-10, and I do find myself using just the 2-10 alone a lot of times when playing small clubs. Give me enough volume, easy to carry and fit in my car, sounds great and doesn't take up too much space on small stages.
That sounds like a great setup, I think that will work out well for you! Just make sure none of the speakers on the cabinet are blown out, you have to check everything when buying used.
Great information, the only thing I would say is mixing cab sizes isn't really ideal, especially with a 4x10 and 1x15. Although most ads would make it seem different, mixing cabs creates phasing and power issues.
Thank you for your comments on the bass amp issue, I have a Hartke 4X8” 500 watt combo coming home with me soon ,I hope this will do it as far as being heard also with my sound in tact
Been playing for over 30 years, and toured for years. Good info. Right on. I use a mountain of SWR gear, including a Headlite in one configuration. Not one failure or problem, ever. Good post.
I bought my first Peavey Mark III XP Series Bass Amp head ( a literal beast ! Weighs a metric ton! ) but has the versatility in regards with dialing the tone I wanted. Played through a Peavey Black Widow 15" cabinet...very street worthy ! But like you said in the video...playing clubs the bass is most likely through a direct box to the PA . I only play casually nowadays and that same 17 year old Mark III head and cabinet still work flawlessly !
4 года назад
Aguilars single 12 is a great cab. I stack 2 or use 1 for small gigs
IMO The amps that really have the highest output are amplifiers that can go down to 2 ohms. I use EBS amps (I own 210 and 410 4 ohm cabs) and my 650 watt head at 2ohms blows most 1000 watt 4 ohm heads out of the water. The Aguilar DB751 has 1,000 watts at 2ohms which can bring down a skyscraper LOL. Mesa, and Amp have some heads that can go down to 2ohms as well.
I agree, I prefer 10's for the punch and tightness. But I use most of the time a Carvin MB15 Micro bass amp that has a tweeter and is 250 watts. I get a great tight and punchy tone from that 15. Don't know why, but I don't miss the 10's when I use this amp.
yeah my thoughts are like yours, I tend to like 10 inch speakers I usually use just sport ends with my head and use my four tens just as a monitor for myself. for bigger venues I still use tens I just had another 410 cab in mono at 4 Ohms that's the tightest most Punchy sound in the world
Awww..I just bought a Mesa Boogie stack 410/212 set up with a SWR 700 head. Now I gatta check my ohms..no problems though. Thanks for the info....subscribed
One thing that popped into my mind when i watched this is regarding the pre/post EQ options. What i always do when i get a new amp is set the EQ preferrably with good headphones so that i KNOW that the sound coming out of the head and out to the PA is just the way i want it. If the head doesnt have a headphone jack, then i try to set the EQ in a room with good acoustic properties and through a decent and transparent sounding cab. My opinion is (talking PRE EQ) that the sound guy often can quite easily dial in a sound that HE think is good, although not necessarily resembling the sound you really want people to hear. Thats the difficult bit of setting your bass sound up i think,
I too love cabs with neodymium speakers and class D heads. When I signed my endorsement deal with Gallien Krueger, I ordered the Gallien Krueger MB 800 Fusion head and NEO 410 cab. By far, the best amp and cab combo that I have ever owned! Endless power, clear tones, even at very loud volumes playing on a down tuned 5 string bass and extremely reliable. Gallien Krueger did a fantastic job on designing and building both, my amp and cab.
and also, if you're going to use just for tens at 4 Ohms make sure the cabinet can handle the power. otherwise it'll just be farting out. and I do have a head that can go down to 2 ohms so I can use 2 4 ohm cabinets right?
10s for hi fi sound and fast attack , if your into reggae 15s are the way to go big and fat sound , 12s are a great compromise of the two sizes giving more versatility .
I had my cabinet custom made for my style of playing .. the cabinet has 2 10" Eminence 300 watts each speakers with a small Tweeter , running it through a 700 Watt Peavy Tour Amp , Korg EQ both rack mounted .. and on the Bottom End I have a Custom 15" Cabinet with a Peavy Black Widow Speaker for ultimate low end .. they are a little bigger than your standard cabinets and a bit heavier in weight .. but the sound I get out of it is well worth it .. Tremendous Low End , a High .. Thanks for the Tip .. 😎😎😎
I used a GK 800RB head with Mesa Powerhouse 2x10 and 1x15 cabinets. I also have an Aguilar 1×12 that I would use in by amp mode with the 1×15. More recently I bought a Jet City 50 watt Tube guitar head that sounds amazing paired with the Mesa Cabs. 50 watts tube is loud enough to be heard over a drummer and allows me to dial in a little bit of gain to give it a growl and when I play it with a Green Russian Big Muff, it sounds massive.
So...sometimes the stage is so small that you can't fit a 4x10, so you use a 2x10 instead. Considering that the 2x10 and 4x10 is the same with (as we can all see) and most likely the same depth, there must be really low roofs in those venues :P :P :P
So, the bass wizzard reccomends 10 Inch speakers. It's okay, but what about 5 string bass guitars? The low B string is definitely a problem for any speaker under 15 Inches. As a long time bassist (30 years) it worked out for me that 15's are the ideal solution especially, when you get started on bass. It's very helpful to get a feeling for a solid fundament which is provided by bigger speakers. And, it always depends on the music you play. 10's can be added if needed, no prob with that. Neodyme magnets are the perfect solution for 15's.
I have used every combination of speaker cabinets. And nothing says Tone like an Ampeg 8x10E. I dont mind the weight And i employ an Ampeg 4 pro. I have heard so many people say I should just use 2 4x10 HLF cabinets. Well the news is in from Dino at Ampeg. The Ampeh 4x10 HLF's and other 4x10 Cabs are fine and can get loud for sure. But if your looking to have a good volume and tone combined then NO. your not going to get both with any 4x10 cabinet. I agree having use every name brand 4x10 cabinet on the market. But i never look back when i am using my 8x10E...
Yes, just don't drive it too hard - watch your input/output balance; the cab will handle most of the power of the head easily - and at 500-600watts, for pretty much 90% of the gigs you might play, you'll probably only need to turn it up to 40% volume max. For example, I run a 500w @4ohm Markbass head into either a 300w Warwick 4x10 or a custom oversize Aldred Amps 300w 2x10 - I never need to go above about halfway on my output volume, and it all works great, with no damage.
Thanks Robert. I have enjoyed your videos! Additional question. How would you integrate the eq on the amp, active settings on my bass, and pedals into the mix? I know this can be complex. Just need some general advice. Have a great Thanksgiving!
Bob Mazzola Thanks! Hmm. This is where a more advanced player than I might be able to help you further - when I started actually concentrating on bass, rather than flirting with it in bands, I went to a passive bass - so I have little recent experience from which to advise you, in terms of active basses - however. Think about the sort of signal you're putting through - if you apply a lot of EQ on your bass, then you probably won't need to do much with your amp settings - given that an active bass with an EQ control of some sort basically boosts your signal, and then allows you to EQ it (what controls do you have? Bass/Treb, Bass boost, Mid, Bass/mid/treble etc?) so that signal from you bass to your amp/pedal/DI box can be close to, maybe even exactly, the sort of tone you want ultimately - so it's a matter of taste, blending with your bandmate's sounds, fitting your sound to the room you're in - as to how much EQ you apply at each stage. Be aware that, for example, if you boost the bass EQ on your bass, run it through a pedal, and then boost the bass on the amp - you'll more or less have an accumulation of bass - perhaps good for Reggae or Drum n Bass, Dubstep, some kinds of Funk - but not so good for most Rock, or Country, Folk, etc. Does this make sense? :D Had to think for a minute there. And feel free to ask anyone else on this thread.
Should I use 4-ohm head into 4-ohm cabinet, or anyway it`s better to use 8-ohm cabinet with 4-ohm head instead? This in case if I consider using one cabinet.
If you're *SURE*' you'll be staying with one 4-ohm cabinet to one 4-ohm capable Amp, that's the scenario that'll give you more "bang for the buck". However, running everything at 4-ohms will be running it all "hotter"' than 8-ohms and putting more "electrical wear-'n-tear" as well as giving you far less headroom (think of it as running everything at 8/10 ALL THE TIME. Personally I like to run at 8-ohms for the above reasons: more headroom in general and especially when you need it is a *wonderful* thing, and I like when "maxxing out" my pre-or-power amp at 3 or 4: it's all about running "cool", especially as I use Solid State Preamps (okay, a few Preamp Tubes, but no bulky, fragile & heavy Tube Power Amps for me!) and have to electronic need to run anything "hot"... I'm not trying to push an SVT head to get its classic "grind" when I have pedals for that! ;-D
You are right about the 4 10's. I have a trace elliot 4 10's with a bright box which I modified it to be full range with 2 horns. It sounds amazing, but I am selling it (on ebay $750.) because it's a little heavy. It's ok for taking it in and out of the car, but it's the stairs that I cannot handle. These days you can't count with the other musicians to help you carry anything. Everybody wants to get paid for anything, so you have to plan to carry everything alone in any situation. I found a 12" Beyma speaker with the light magnets that is rated at 900 watts (continous power). I mounted it in a small PA cabinet with a horn. I use it with the Gallien MB200 and, as long as you don't turn it up all the way, sounds great and it's super light. I have a crown power amp that goes up to 1200 watts (bridged) for that once a year outdoor situation when you need to sound louder than usual, and of course, I will never turn it all the way up (the speaker would fry). I've seen that the new tendency is to have a lot of power and turn it up half way or less. The amps and speakers work cool and there is no distortion. I still have my doubts that it's going to sound as good as the 4 10's, but now there is sound reinforcement almost everywhere and big amps are not needed. Thank goodness!
+kosmicwizard well, I like how basic is was...being a beginner myself. anyway I ended up getting a hartke ha5500, 500 watt. which I'm pretty happy with. would have wanted like a ampeg svr or something but they cost a loooooot. I don't like the new obsession over class d amps. who gives a shit that it's light... ask someone to help carry stuff!! maybe if I was gigging all the time. would sacrifice personal comfort for good sound any day...
2:11 is my exact rig a goliath 3 and son of bertha. I use a pre fender swr sm400 hybrid head and Spector basses. Small shows I do use just the 4x10. Love my gear. His go light is cheaper stuff like the working man seres. Also my 15 has a tweeter I can dial up and doesnt sound muddy at all. And my head has a d.i. that sound guys use and it IS my sound aside their e.q.
Trying to get Duff Mckagan’s tone, and I am thinking about getting GK 212 cab, maybe add a 1x15, or 410 with a 115. Some people say that 212 is a compromise between the two. If anyone has any suggestions, then please let me know!
@Bass Boy J, Not that the quality or speaker size and cabinet brand isn't important it is. But if you're looking to get a tone like Duff's you need to start with the bass you're playing. Although Duff has many different branded bass guitars, because he can. : ) IMO and I'd bet he'd tell you the same, his tone comes from a American made Fender Precision Bass. That's the biggest part of getting his tone without a doubt! And Duff is actually endorsed by Fender that offer 2 models of Duff McKagan P Bass designs. Huge difference and factor to the sound you want. Also Rotosound rs66 strings, MXR Bass Chorus Deluxe, 2x15 cabinet which early Gn'R he used GK amps & cabs, crank up the treble and Rock n' Roll !
Tidbit. Ohms is a measurement of resistance. So the bigger the number, the more resistance, the less power youre using Easy way to think of it. 4ohms to 1 cab. = 4. 8phms to 2 cabs (8/2) = 4.
Both SWR and SUNN were bought out by Fender who then took their technology and incorporated into their Bassman and Superbassman heads. Personally I have been using mid 90's Trace Elliott equipment, before they too were bought out by Gibson who in turn sold them to Peavey. There are new Trace Elliott rigs on the market but Lord knows where they are made and how good they are.
30 years ago i had an EMC 1972 solid state amp/pa. 8 inputs/8 outputs at 400 watts each, 2 18 inch speakers (400 watts each, not light, but i'm a big man... ) it served me well when some sound-tech cut me from the band ( a trio !!! ) just crank to 10 et voila !!! Not an average practice amp.
I love my whole Hartke rig ( HA3500 head,4x10" and 1x15" cabs) but I'm considering a 2x10" modern and lighter combo. As you say, most of the times the amp is for hearing yourself on the stage. If there is a decent monitor system I usually bring out my Sansamp.
Not all amp heads are 4ohm heads. Many are, some are 2 ohms and some but not as many are only capable of 8 ohm loads. Your cabinet impedence limits should be based on whatever minimum load your amp explicitly states as it's minimum impedence
Just want to say SWR didn't go out of business, Fender bought them and shut them down, along with Hamer and Genz-Benz. Sucks because Hamer and SWR were 2 of my favorite brands. Someone recently bought Hamer and started doing import instruments only right now. Hopefully there will be enough interest for US instruments. But Mike Shishkov is building high quality US guitars in the Hamer tradition. Don't know if anyone can bring SWR or Genz Benz back because Fender probably bought them for technology patents. Notice how Fender's modern amps have improver over the past 5+ years since buying SWR and Genz.
My main amps are *still* my SWR Mini Mo’, the preamp-only version of their “Mo’ Bass” head with built-in Analog Effects (Overdrive/Distortion, Chorus, Envelope Filter, Octave & additional EQ and Boost) for when Effects just need to be the basics and load-in/out quick and easy, or my 2nd generation “Interstellar Overdrive” for when I want more of a natural SVT-type Tone along with more Effects options when using my larger Outboard Pedalboard. From their I have the option of using any combination of my Avatar 1x12”, 2x10” or 2x12” Neodymium-loaded Cabinets - I just had the B210 & B212 until I picked up a used Neo B112 for a pittance at my local GC. That gave me the option to have a “Mini Stack” 2x10” & 1x12” set-up between the full 2x10” & 2x12” or just the 2x12” single cabinet (the original reason I chose the 2x10”/2x12” was because the Mini Mo’ had a “Dual Bass” mode that splits the Effected & Uneffected Signals, which I could continue to use with the 2x10”/1x12”. I realize I was late getting into the SWR Game, but having my two preamps is good enough for me...I can’t imagine what my own personal tone would be like without them. 😳
BOOM! Your video is a perfect example of never being too old to learn something new. I'm not a young kid anymore. I've been playing guitar professionally since WAY before you were born but I have to say that I still found your knowledge and experience very very informative. Now, I'm not a bass player, I'm a guitarist. But HEY, that means that I can play bass too - right? I fully understand your pain when having to move heavy amps and cabs in and out of venues. But I honestly did not know about these ultra light heads and speakers. This is great stuff to know as I am shopping for a bass rig currently. I fully agree with your take on the 10" speakers vs the larger ones. I used to have an Ampeg with 8 10" speakers back when we didn't have options other than to carry around massive boxes. That rig always sounded better than the ones with the bigger speakers. When talking about the impedance of various speakers and cabs, I've always likened them to flowing water through a garden hose. A single hose will have so much resistance. If you run this into a "Y" connector and divide the first hose into two, the water can now flow easier because it's half the resistance. By the same token, if you have two 8 ohm cabs and run them in parallel, you have a total load of 4 ohms because you've divided the signal to each by half. In the good old days when I was playing an old Les through a Marshall stack (and giving myself a lifetime case of tinnitus XD) I had just what you're saying here. The Marshall head was designed for a total load of 4 ohms and each cab had four Celestions wired for 8 ohms. I ended up with a total impedance of 4 ohms. However, for rehearsals, I only wanted to have to carry one cab around and so, I was losing efficiency but still, it worked...ok...it was't bad but it never really cooked like it did on stage with both cabs. I have not played many venues in recent years with a house system and a sound man to run it. If I had stopped to think about it, I would have realized that a pre-EQ DI box is very important to a sound guy that knows his business. So, in addition to the rest of the information in your great video, than you very much for opening my eyes to that DI box situation. I just learned a lot from you young man. Thanx
On that note mark the bass wizard, i suggest to many of your viewers to get a fender rumble 200 watt, it is perfect for practicing in your house if you keep the volume low, and to carry it, it only weighs 34 lbs and that is killer weight for a big sound, if you think that's too heavy try the rumble 100 the new model is only 22 lbs and it has a delta comp limiter, and a compressor that gets going once you're past voule 5-7 maybe all the way, the limiter is so that you don't damage the speaker and cleverly enough the 500 watt, the king of the fender rumble V3 series is only 36 lbs which i think is brilliant, because not many 500 watt class D solid state amps weight 36 lbs, actually now that i said that is true there are none, but this one the amp is new in 2014 so the 50 watt will run you like 600 bucks or something like that, i got my 100 watt for 350
+Ernesto Chang I'm thinking about the Fender combo 500 with 2x10" speakers vs Fender 200 watts combo with 1x15" ??? I have a Neo GK 1 x15" bass cabinet that I'll use it with one or the other option. and I'm not sure what option will be better 1.- Combo 200 and GK = 2 x15'' speakers 2.- Combo 500 will be 2x10" and 1 x15" speakers
Hello, excuse me, my English ... my question is: if I have a 300w (ashdown blue) head and I want to connect a homemade two-speaker cabinet ... what impedance should the horns have and how many waats does each speaker have?
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Looking back I made some rude comments a year ago, I have learned humility and rewatched and was impressed. You have a new subscriber.
good stuff you just said,,keep learning and listening
Nice one, dude. You have a new like.
humblebrag smh
Marc is super knowledgeable, and very talented.
This guy deserves a few rude comments. He says he sometimes uses 2x10 cabinet because there isn't enough room for a 4X10. An 8x10 takes up the same floor space as a 2X10. How simple minded does he think his listeners are? I haven't accepted a gig that gear had to be carried upstairs or downstairs since I was in high school. Who is hard up enough for a gig to do that?
Thank You! I'm 55 and always wanted to play the bass guitar. I'm considering my options as a beginner.
The discussion of impedance was very helpful. It took me back to my college days.
I'll be checking out all you videos. Again, thank you so much.
Drew Freeman never late to start, welcome to the musician family :)
hey man if your just starting you should look at a combo amp!!! they are literally hundreds of dollars cheaper. as in the cheapest you can get at guitar center right now is $500 for a head and cab and they are literally bottom of the barrel brands but on the other hand you can get the fender rumble 25 for $100 and it will sound very good and give you plenty of sound if your just learning alone (i would often have my whole family yelling at me when its only at half volume), but if you are playing with friends maybe go for the rumble 40 same great sound with substantially more power but its $200. Another hint is that if you are playing with other players you should have around 3-4x their wattage, this isnt the rule but its a good general guideline. Good luck!!
go for it ,I,m 70 and have been playing bass since I was 19
get yourself a Yamaha rbx270 bass ,,used about £50 and a set of rotosound strings ..and a 20 watt bass practice amp .. you will be more than happy
Drew Freeman if you’re a beginner you should get a small amp that won’t take any effort carrying unless your a beginner playing gigs for some reason
I really would NOT say that 12" and 15" speakers get muddy. Some of them can, probably...
I mainly use 12" for bass. never had problems with them. Most of them have a nice mid voiced tone and they can move a whole lot of air!
Think about a 4x12" =)
I agree 💯. I have a 12" hartke amp and I just eq the muddiness out if it is necessary.
I run an Ampeg SVT 4 Pro, using the internal crossover to run everything above about 800 Hz to 1kHz into a 4 x 10" w/ a horn, and everything below this into a cabinet with an 18" Electro-Voice. I have never heard the words, "mud," or, "muddy," even spoken in the building. Most of the time I'm just playing an all original 1983 Fender P bass American. I get compliments on my tone from fans of all genres. I primarily play metal, but jazz, blues, funk, a wide variety of rock, even played a couple R&B studio gigs (old school 1970's stuff, what I think of when I hear the term, "R&B," but that's just me), and a few country live gigs, when money wasn't flowing for me many years ago, have been played through that rig. My most recent metal band, about a year and a half ago, told me after my first jam with them, my defacto tryout, that it was the best bass tone they'd ever heard. When I brought my 1992 Ibanez, loaded with EMG PJ- X pickups and the BQC system preamp and pots, two weeks later, they corrected themselves on the new, "best bass tone they'd ever heard."
Personally, I thought they were blowing smoke up my ass, and paying me false compliments, but they insisted on how they were serious.
The point is, any bass rig can sound muddy, if there's enough factors creating muddy tone: the hands creating the player's technique (or picking if using a pick?), or the player's ear doesn't know any better, yet, the bass itself, even rolling off too much on the knobs/pots, especially if it's got active electronics or EQ and someone starts turning knobs they don't understand, then bad cables, really cheap cables, or needlessly long cables can contribute to mud, then finally, the amp and cab(s) can contribute to muddy tone as well, but unless it's a REALLY low quality amp or cab, anyone who's reasonably knowledgeable at how to dial in an amp can get a bass tone that's not muddy.
I never even knew that was a concern until I started watching RUclips videos about 5 years ago.
Best advice: play, listen, experiment, play, listen, experiment, etc. And learn from others (who know what they're talking about, some don't).
True, you just have to dial in your tone differently - I bought a used Peavey PVH 212, and LOVE it (but in TGC store, it did indeed sound muddy, even through a MarkBass head - when I upped the treble & took down the bass, it was warm and clean, but has a tendency to be a bit dark - which I love, because, metal blues:-)
oh how we long for the good ole days back in the 70's when we would get on stage with big giant ampegs and marshall stacks that we taller than we were. still have nightmares about unloading those things at 5 in the morning after the shows. LOL!!!
great video keep it up!!
+nublackmusic All setup nightmares aside, it did look cool though... Lol!
Looks are fine, as long as some roadie is doing the heavy lifting! lol
Some still do, if you have the means
I still play with an Ampeg, because it sounds so good. I leave my 810 cab at home though. The 212 is plenty loud, especially with FOH support. And it sounds just as awesome.
Far too much emphasis on the weight of gear these days. People used to drag hammond b3/leslie and big tube amps wthout roadies. Oh how did they survive?
make sure the cabinet has WHEELS trust me
I'm not a fan of wheels or castors on Gear, which besides making a hole in something that is designed to not have additional area removed, usually aren't Lockable and will start to roll backwards on the smallest of inclines. I also don't like automatically decoupling from the Stage Floor depending if it's hollow or not, which can cause the type of low-end "boominess" that Sound Techs can only control by lowering the Bass practically out of the FOH (if I need to control that, I'll do it myself with my Auralex GRAMMA). IMO I think one of the many transformable 8-in-1 "Transport Carts" which can be repositioned into a Transport Cart to a "Furniture Dolly" to a 2-Wheeled Handtruck (and usually multiple-sized versions of each, for single-person set-ups or "Large Band w/ Horns carrying their own PA) is a much better choice: I personally use and recommend the Rock N Roller-brand "Multi-Cart" line of transporters. Firstly, depending on the size one can usually bring their ENTIRE load-in & out in a single trip, which eliminates leaving a pile of expensive gear in the venue or by your car as you go to get the second half and the rest of your bandmates doing the same when no one notices some guy that was maybe helping was in actuality making off with your Gear (true story: a Guitarist friend I'd worked with on several projects had a 1972 Gibson Les Paul Recording, early '90s Gibson Les Paul Standard & Fender American HSS Stratocaster stolen after a Gig in NYC right out of this scenario). You can also make the horror of a basement or 2nd Floor gig far easier as just about all of these can be used as a Handtruck instead of needed 2/3 people and eliminate the danger of a dropped-and-tumbling cabinet. So do yourself a favor and invest in the $60-$150 range (beyond that is just larger models that can honestly take up too much space even when folded up for transportation in your car) and just make sure you get one with inflatable Rear Wheels and not Molded Solid Plastic or Rubber-type material: going up-or-downstairs or anything but totally dry outside ground will thank you for it!
+Ian Perge Castors don't necessarily have to be on the bottom of a cab, seen alot of bass cabs with them on the side so you still get the coupling effect while having the portability.
kenny cadarett what if the cabinet is 10cm by 10cm
that's 10 centimeters correct that would be quite small my cabinet is a neo 4-10 no vents and the wheels just pull out so you can put it on the ground I use a 500 watt true rms head it's loud enough I have always been a fan of raising up the cabinet better sound even when I was using 2 15 inch EV prolines in single 15 cabinets it just tends to blend better than being a sub woofer when it has contact with the floor
my peavey tko115 breaks my back.
I would say don't worry about the weight unless you're just playing shows constantly. Nothing beats an Ampeg tube amp. As for cabinets, I prefer smaller speakers. They give a tighter sound. Right now I have an 810, which never leaves my house, and a 212, which I use for gigs. But honestly, I could go even smaller on gigs. A 112 or a 210 would be fine. Every place I've played since the '90s has full front-of-house support. You don't need a loud amp.
Ampeg classic 4x10 is an amazing cabinet that you would never have the urge to upgrade.
With what head would your pair that?
@@TheRealCowlick My dad uses a David Eden Trailer pro 400w head with his ampeg 4x10. Its a great combo.
@@chloedegurechaff1941 nice. I just picked up a hughes and kettner quantum 600 head with a 4x10 cab. Only for 750 dollars.
Unless you can get an Ampeg 2x15 😉
I agree, but if you can have a deal on a 8x10 go for it.
Hey Thanks for "clearing up" that whole 4 ohm/ 8 ohm thing. No one's ever broken it down so that I can understand it like you just did, Thanks a lot Bro.
I have a Peavey Vb 2 Tube bass head at 225 watts and a Hartke 410 cabinet at 400 watts. I love my setup! It has great tone and warmth and is great for any style of music. The tube amp is very loud and sounds amazing! The big drawback I have is that my rig is very heavy but I pretty much keep this rig in one place and mainly use it for rehearsals, practice, and recordings.
The Crown XLS Series automatically Senses what ohm cabinet you plug into and adjusts itself. SO you Dont make a mistake. Good for Crown!
This video is golden!! I can't tell you how much you have really helped me both musically and gear wise. Everything was so clearly explained and now I have better knowledge on ohms, heads and cabs. Thank you for sharing your knowledge to help us noobies. You are a great bass inspiration to me.
Good video and advice! One thing to keep in mind , for optimum even speaker power distribution for a 6X10 setup, a head that is capable of 2ohm load is most efficient.
The setup i have is like yours only difference is my 2x10 cab is 8ohm and my 4x10 cab is 4ohm , total impedance 2.67 ohm, even power distribution to each cone.
They say that matching cabs are the way to go , so say 2 410 cabs @ 8ohms , would be optimum , so it will run at 4 ohm , which most amps can handle , without a sweat.
When i gig , small coffee house gigs get my single 210(8ohm) 400 watts , bigger shows get my single 410( 4 ohm) 800 watts, using my Gk MB fusion amp( 4 ohm minimum load) .
And when i want balls to the walls output , i'll run both cabs(2.67 ohm total) but with my mesa walkabout amp, which can do minimum 2 ohm.
Also , if i may request a video that showcases amp settings as a guideline. I have found that there not enough videos floating around RUclips explaining how to use amp eq's and or compressor, limiter's. Wish i had RUclips when i first started playing bass , what a great resource of information and entertainment.
Anyhow great channel and keep up the great work !
Cheers!
Basic, yet extremely important info. You did a great job of explaining Ohms in regards to matching speakers with amp heads. Good job!
Sigh Co. Bassist Thank you!
The Bass Wizard Yes really good explaination and nice video!
Sigh Co. Bassist Bass-ic
Hi Marcelo..I am 61 and have always run original SVT's from 1974 and built my own cabs with JBL K-140's and E-140's ( all 15's ) and I'd port the cabs to JBL specs, but still use my own cab designs. I can't get raw JBL speakers anymore, maybe they closed down the Northridge plant, I don't know. I had an Ampeg refrigerator cab 8-10 too. Well...I am over all that big equipment now, because I do like the micro amps, not just cause of lighter weight, but the amount of power available for sizeable gigs, and mainly because they DO sound good. Bottom line is, ...the way the companies are making bass amps now...you can get your prefered bass tone out of any one of these amps now days, so just grab one you like and go.
Thanks, Marcelo! good stuff I'm going with Ampeg BA-210vr
I always run a clean DI from my, then a second through my pedalboard and post eq DI from my head, and blend the two. That was when I use envelopes ect it's still phat in the low end.
If you play stoner, doom, sludge or similar music, always go with 15" speakers. Preferably large sized 2x15" with lots of power or two quality cabs. 8x10" is OK too, but I personally hate the dispersion with that.
Mikko Puhakka what kind of cheap head would you reccomend?
Triple6 Peavey
For a "what bass amp should I buy" primer for both someone new to bass and making the right investment and the working bassist and the scenarios they will encounter at venues, this video hits on all the right points. I would refer people to this video for a concise explanation. Brands, speaker sizes, etc. are rightly left to buyer's own ears for their application and budget. I always buy gently used to get the most for my dollar. Some of the comments below criticizing this video should be ignored. Sure, they may be factually correct but the points they are arguing are really left to the buyer to determine what's best for them. Nice job "Bass Wizard"!
Excellent explanation!
Just a little correction: if you plug a 8 ohm cabinet into a 4 ohm head, you actually get a QUARTER power.
no. i get 700 watts at 4 Ohms and 475 at 8 Ohms, how is that 1/4?
Dear BW, I bought my first ampeg in 72. I have seen countless tutorials. You are right at the top of clarity and very concise.
Well done young man well done. k
"Lightweight" cabs and class D heads. Having played--oh so many years back--an Acoustic B360/361 (with an 18" woofer and folded horn), I share Marcelo's pain and enthusiasm. Just recently purchased a Quilter Bass Block 800 class D, and matched it with a pair of 2x10s. The power out/decibel level is astonishingly loud yet clear and rich/deep.
I use a vintage fender bassman with the dual showman 215 cabinet for my house or very large gigs. For regular shows, I’ll use either my old BXR 300 with an ampex tube preamp and a 115 cabinet or I’ll use my BXR 60 combo with the tube preamp. The 60 is a 1x12 combo.
RE: Your comments about impedance affecting output @5:25. It is true that a Class D amp will halve its output when the impedance is doubled and so for maximum volume the lowest load allowed (usually, but not necessarily 4ohms) should be used. Again, for people that don’t know, using two 8ohm cabs in parallel will create a 4ohm load. But, other types of amp won’t respond in the same way. A class A/B amp (like the Orange OB1 series) won’t drop output at quite the same rate as class D, so whereas a 500W class D amp might operate at a maximum of 250W at 8ohms a 500W class A/B amp might run into the same load at 300-350W. These numbers are for purposes of illustration, you need to talk to the manufacturer about a specific amp if you want to know how it will behave.
Great explanation. I am just an apprentice and got a Markbass CMD JB Players School Amp. It supports 150 W at 8 Ohm and 300W with another cabinet. Really simplified things for me. Thanks.
I'm starting studying bass and seeing it in 2019.
Thank you for the direct, simple and accurate answer.
been playing guitar for years thought I would try my hand at Bass, wanted to learn a little about bass amps. Your video was clear and extremely informative to me, thank you.
Very comprehensive answer - thanks! Most answers to questions like this are "oh, well it really depends on your budget and needs...vagueness....vagueness....budget...needs....mostly budget but also needs...more vagueness". It is very frustrating.
I have a small Gailien Kruger MB 800. I love it.
You say that 'if you want 2 cabinets, you've got to make sure they're both 8 ohms', for anyone reading, that's not strictly true, some bass amps can do a 2 Ohm load, so you can use two 4 ohm 8x10 or 2x15 cabinets if you're wanting to get crazy with it. Some of these include Ampeg SVT, Marshall VBA400, old school Peavey gear like the Mark IV, a lot of PA power amplifiers do 2 ohm loads as well.
I went out and bought a Eden WT550. And I'm picking up an Eden 410.
Good info!
Wow! Eden amps are some of the best bass amps out there. You mean business with that stuff.
I have a Eden Traveler circa 1996... it's great, been in the shop a couple of times but...damn... great head! Runs a Eden 4x10XLT yummy yummy yummy
Ohm is a measure unit for describing resistance. And so with a higher resistance, you will have less power flowing through from amp to cab. So if you have two cabs rated 8 Ohms, then because there are two power-consuming units (cabs), the amp will be able to distribute at full capacity (4 Ohm) Just like if you were using just one 4 Ohm cab.
You can plug two 4 ohm cabs into a 4 0hm blackface late '60s Bassman with no problems. Leo designed his amps for a 100% mismatch with no chance of failure. I've plugged a 2-15" 4 ohm and a 2-12" 4 ohm Bassman cab into one with no problems. Of course this is an 'old school' tube amp. You can't believe the volume for 50 watts of vacuum tube. It's insane.
Just bought a new Fender Rumble 200, the new redesigned one. Absolutely love it! This thing cranks! Highly recommended.
Marshall 100watt and 4x12 bass cab,, this is the ultimate ...bin playing bass for 50 years and I have never found anything better
I have two Mesa Boogie heads. The Prodigy and the new Class D Subway. In my humble opinion, the Subway is the best bang for the buck. It's made in the USA and it's come closer to my Prodigy than any Class D amp I've tried. It's 800 watts at 4 ohms and 400 at 8 ohms and will go to 2 ohms. I'm using an Eden 4X10 Neo. It's easy on my 65 year old back.
Thanks for clarifying this. I finally understand the whole wattage/ohms thing.
We have played at some places and I only had them DI my amp once because I didn’t like the sound that came out to the crowd. Now I ask for them to mic my 410.
A Marshall Super Bass Mk 11, with a compatible Marshall 4x12 bass cab (x 2, depending on the size of the gig). ✊🏻
I’ve got the same head number 1174 off the line 80’s 100watt super bass 2
With a black widow 18x 2 tens
The Ampeg micro series 2x10 is a great cab ,easy to move ,will sound great with any head .10 s are the way to go ,anything bigger get muddy if playing more than 2 notes and if the volume is up where it should be in the mix ..Nothing sounds as good as a tube head but if you are not recording go light weight with the head also check out the whole micro Ampeg around $325 for the head and 2x10 cab ..i have the Ampeg V4B head 6x10 HLF cab .and the micro 2x10 cab sounds great with the V4B head and with the Ashdowm mag 300 head which is solid state and has a DI output on the front .I hope this helps .Good Luck with Playing !
best thing is to compare cabnets and amp with your ears. but easier said than done because most stores have little bass gear. my 610 ampeg is more muddy and boomy than my hartke 115, and some 410 can be very harsh in the high end with some amps. some time mixing cabnets is bad some times you can make it work.
Marcelo. What if you plug a head 500W @ 4ohms into a cabs that handles 600W @4ohms?
Charlie_33 That should work fine. The power rating on the cab is the amount of power that the speakers can handle so provided that cab is rated higher than the head (which in the example you give it is) it should be fine. Technically, you could run a more powerful head into a lower power cab so long as you don’t turn the volume up to a point where the head is outputting more than the cab can handle, but that’s taking a risk.
I own the SWR Go Light 4-10 cab. I always put it on the floor , with no dolly, the floor contact gives it more Bass kick. It is A Great sounding cab. , its light, but bulky. I play a lot and most clubs are small these days, so I am looking to go with a 2-10 cab. Not sure what is out there now that is as good sounding as my SWR GoLight.
livebass Revolt Yes, that is very true. Ideally you do want it flat on the floor with no wheels or dolly. The sound reflects off the floor and give you more bottom end. If you live in an apartment with downstairs neighbors, you want the opposite, since the vibration on the floor will lead to noise complaints haha
I have the SWR Go Light cabs too. I actually have both the 4-10 and the 2-10, and I do find myself using just the 2-10 alone a lot of times when playing small clubs. Give me enough volume, easy to carry and fit in my car, sounds great and doesn't take up too much space on small stages.
I prefer the hartke high drive . I get the sound that I'm looking for and it has great low end and its solid
I had an h&k 200w with a 4x10. It did pretty darn good. Now i've downsized to an ampeg svp- pro and a fender rumble 75.
I would say 10 inch is a hi fi sound faster attack ,12inch best all rounder IMO, and 15 upward if your into Reggae and want a big round fat sound.
And by the way, I've got some new gear on the way: Aguilar tone hammer 500 and Epifani (used) ul2 310 cab. Can't wait..
That sounds like a great setup, I think that will work out well for you! Just make sure none of the speakers on the cabinet are blown out, you have to check everything when buying used.
My rig is bigger (Growing as well) but I love it
I've got a Line 6 G90 Wireless going into a Mesa M9 Carbine into a Markbass 4x10. Love how it sounds
Great information, the only thing I would say is mixing cab sizes isn't really ideal, especially with a 4x10 and 1x15. Although most ads would make it seem different, mixing cabs creates phasing and power issues.
Thank you for your comments on the bass amp issue, I have a Hartke 4X8” 500 watt combo coming home with me soon ,I hope this will do it as far as being heard also with my sound in tact
Been playing for over 30 years, and toured for years. Good info. Right on. I use a mountain of SWR gear, including a Headlite in one configuration. Not one failure or problem, ever. Good post.
GK 1001 RB excellent amp for that cabinet that's what I use..
I bought my first Peavey Mark III XP Series Bass Amp head ( a literal beast ! Weighs a metric ton! ) but has the versatility in regards with dialing the tone I wanted. Played through a Peavey Black Widow 15" cabinet...very street worthy ! But like you said in the video...playing clubs the bass is most likely through a direct box to the PA . I only play casually nowadays and that same 17 year old Mark III head and cabinet still work flawlessly !
Aguilars single 12 is a great cab. I stack 2 or use 1 for small gigs
IMO The amps that really have the highest output are amplifiers that can go down to 2 ohms. I use EBS amps (I own 210 and 410 4 ohm cabs) and my 650 watt head at 2ohms blows most 1000 watt 4 ohm heads out of the water. The Aguilar DB751 has 1,000 watts at 2ohms which can bring down a skyscraper LOL. Mesa, and Amp have some heads that can go down to 2ohms as well.
I agree, I prefer 10's for the punch and tightness. But I use most of the time a Carvin MB15 Micro bass amp that has a tweeter and is 250 watts. I get a great tight and punchy tone from that 15. Don't know why, but I don't miss the 10's when I use this amp.
yeah my thoughts are like yours, I tend to like 10 inch speakers I usually use just sport ends with my head and use my four tens just as a monitor for myself. for bigger venues I still use tens I just had another 410 cab in mono at 4 Ohms that's the tightest most Punchy sound in the world
Awww..I just bought a Mesa Boogie stack 410/212 set up with a SWR 700 head. Now I gatta check my ohms..no problems though. Thanks for the info....subscribed
One thing that popped into my mind when i watched this is regarding the pre/post EQ options. What i always do when i get a new amp is set the EQ preferrably with good headphones so that i KNOW that the sound coming out of the head and out to the PA is just the way i want it. If the head doesnt have a headphone jack, then i try to set the EQ in a room with good acoustic properties and through a decent and transparent sounding cab. My opinion is (talking PRE EQ) that the sound guy often can quite easily dial in a sound that HE think is good, although not necessarily resembling the sound you really want people to hear. Thats the difficult bit of setting your bass sound up i think,
I too love cabs with neodymium speakers and class D heads. When I signed my endorsement deal with Gallien Krueger, I ordered the Gallien Krueger MB 800 Fusion head and NEO 410 cab. By far, the best amp and cab combo that I have ever owned! Endless power, clear tones, even at very loud volumes playing on a down tuned 5 string bass and extremely reliable. Gallien Krueger did a fantastic job on designing and building both, my amp and cab.
I like Gallien Krueger, but I really like the Mesa Subway D-800. I use two 15 inch speakers. The 15 inch speakers, have great tone.
I loved my Peavy TNT 15” combo but it was a put in place and leave it amp at 75 pounds.
and also, if you're going to use just for tens at 4 Ohms make sure the cabinet can handle the power. otherwise it'll just be farting out. and I do have a head that can go down to 2 ohms so I can use 2 4 ohm cabinets right?
There is a bit more to the impedance issue...series v parralel...make sure you understand this factor when plugging your head into more than one cab..
SWR has NOT gone out of business. As much as they've slimmed down the variety of products they offer, the end is surely in sight. Thanks Fender.
Your explanation of amplifier and speaker ohms was awesome. I finally got it figured out...Thanks
One of the best RUclips channels out there! Very underrated
10s for hi fi sound and fast attack , if your into reggae 15s are the way to go big and fat sound , 12s are a great compromise of the two sizes giving more versatility .
I had my cabinet custom made for my style of playing .. the cabinet has 2 10" Eminence 300 watts each speakers with a small Tweeter , running it through a 700 Watt Peavy Tour Amp , Korg EQ both rack mounted .. and on the Bottom End I have a Custom 15" Cabinet with a Peavy Black Widow Speaker for ultimate low end .. they are a little bigger than your standard cabinets and a bit heavier in weight .. but the sound I get out of it is well worth it .. Tremendous Low End , a High .. Thanks for the Tip .. 😎😎😎
I used a GK 800RB head with Mesa Powerhouse 2x10 and 1x15 cabinets. I also have an Aguilar 1×12 that I would use in by amp mode with the 1×15. More recently I bought a Jet City 50 watt Tube guitar head that sounds amazing paired with the Mesa Cabs. 50 watts tube is loud enough to be heard over a drummer and allows me to dial in a little bit of gain to give it a growl and when I play it with a Green Russian Big Muff, it sounds massive.
I got a 4x10, 2x12 & 1x15 for my recording setup
So...sometimes the stage is so small that you can't fit a 4x10, so you use a 2x10 instead.
Considering that the 2x10 and 4x10 is the same with (as we can all see) and most likely the same depth, there must be really low roofs in those venues :P :P :P
Espen Løken i think you meant width not with :)
So stand it on its end, make it tall and thin!? You can play tiny stages like that.
packed with a bunch of great info without getting bogged down in the weeds with tech geek stuff. Thanks, man!
So, the bass wizzard reccomends 10 Inch speakers. It's okay, but what about 5 string bass guitars? The low B string is definitely a problem for any speaker under 15 Inches. As a long time bassist (30 years) it worked out for me that 15's are the ideal solution especially, when you get started on bass. It's very helpful to get a feeling for a solid fundament which is provided by bigger speakers. And, it always depends on the music you play. 10's can be added if needed, no prob with that. Neodyme magnets are the perfect solution for 15's.
I have used every combination of speaker cabinets. And nothing says Tone like an Ampeg 8x10E. I dont mind the weight And i employ an Ampeg 4 pro. I have heard so many people say I should just use 2 4x10 HLF cabinets. Well the news is in from Dino at Ampeg. The Ampeh 4x10 HLF's and other 4x10 Cabs are fine and can get loud for sure. But if your looking to have a good volume and tone combined then NO. your not going to get both with any 4x10 cabinet. I agree having use every name brand 4x10 cabinet on the market. But i never look back when i am using my 8x10E...
Your explication of impedance was the clearer I ever heard, I finally totally understood thanks ;-)
OK to use a Carvin 500 watt head into a Carvin 600 watt cabinet?
Yes, just don't drive it too hard - watch your input/output balance; the cab will handle most of the power of the head easily - and at 500-600watts, for pretty much 90% of the gigs you might play, you'll probably only need to turn it up to 40% volume max.
For example, I run a 500w @4ohm Markbass head into either a 300w Warwick 4x10 or a custom oversize Aldred Amps 300w 2x10 - I never need to go above about halfway on my output volume, and it all works great, with no damage.
Thanks Robert. I have enjoyed your videos! Additional question. How would you integrate the eq on the amp, active settings on my bass, and pedals into the mix? I know this can be complex. Just need some general advice. Have a great Thanksgiving!
Bob Mazzola Thanks!
Hmm. This is where a more advanced player than I might be able to help you further - when I started actually concentrating on bass, rather than flirting with it in bands, I went to a passive bass - so I have little recent experience from which to advise you, in terms of active basses - however.
Think about the sort of signal you're putting through - if you apply a lot of EQ on your bass, then you probably won't need to do much with your amp settings - given that an active bass with an EQ control of some sort basically boosts your signal, and then allows you to EQ it (what controls do you have? Bass/Treb, Bass boost, Mid, Bass/mid/treble etc?) so that signal from you bass to your amp/pedal/DI box can be close to, maybe even exactly, the sort of tone you want ultimately - so it's a matter of taste, blending with your bandmate's sounds, fitting your sound to the room you're in - as to how much EQ you apply at each stage. Be aware that, for example, if you boost the bass EQ on your bass, run it through a pedal, and then boost the bass on the amp - you'll more or less have an accumulation of bass - perhaps good for Reggae or Drum n Bass, Dubstep, some kinds of Funk - but not so good for most Rock, or Country, Folk, etc.
Does this make sense? :D Had to think for a minute there. And feel free to ask anyone else on this thread.
I would use a 1 watt head
Cody kholeson Are you sure you mean "...1 watt..."?
Should I use 4-ohm head into 4-ohm cabinet, or anyway it`s better to use 8-ohm cabinet with 4-ohm head instead? This in case if I consider using one cabinet.
If you're *SURE*' you'll be staying with one 4-ohm cabinet to one 4-ohm capable Amp, that's the scenario that'll give you more "bang for the buck". However, running everything at 4-ohms will be running it all "hotter"' than 8-ohms and putting more "electrical wear-'n-tear" as well as giving you far less headroom (think of it as running everything at 8/10 ALL THE TIME.
Personally I like to run at 8-ohms for the above reasons: more headroom in general and especially when you need it is a *wonderful* thing, and I like when "maxxing out" my pre-or-power amp at 3 or 4: it's all about running "cool", especially as I use Solid State Preamps (okay, a few Preamp Tubes, but no bulky, fragile & heavy Tube Power Amps for me!) and have to electronic need to run anything "hot"... I'm not trying to push an SVT head to get its classic "grind" when I have pedals for that! ;-D
+Ian Perge Ok, thank you, similar things i thought, but i wanted to be sure, that is useful information.
You are right about the 4 10's. I have a trace elliot 4 10's with a bright box which I modified it to be full range with 2 horns. It sounds amazing, but I am selling it (on ebay $750.) because it's a little heavy. It's ok for taking it in and out of the car, but it's the stairs that I cannot handle. These days you can't count with the other musicians to help you carry anything. Everybody wants to get paid for anything, so you have to plan to carry everything alone in any situation. I found a 12" Beyma speaker with the light magnets that is rated at 900 watts (continous power). I mounted it in a small PA cabinet with a horn. I use it with the Gallien MB200 and, as long as you don't turn it up all the way, sounds great and it's super light. I have a crown power amp that goes up to 1200 watts (bridged) for that once a year outdoor situation when you need to sound louder than usual, and of course, I will never turn it all the way up (the speaker would fry). I've seen that the new tendency is to have a lot of power and turn it up half way or less. The amps and speakers work cool and there is no distortion. I still have my doubts that it's going to sound as good as the 4 10's, but now there is sound reinforcement almost everywhere and big amps are not needed. Thank goodness!
super helpful video. looking to buy my first bass gig rig and this is the best overview i've seen so far of various options and considerations...
+kosmicwizard well, I like how basic is was...being a beginner myself. anyway I ended up getting a hartke ha5500, 500 watt. which I'm pretty happy with. would have wanted like a ampeg svr or something but they cost a loooooot. I don't like the new obsession over class d amps. who gives a shit that it's light... ask someone to help carry stuff!! maybe if I was gigging all the time. would sacrifice personal comfort for good sound any day...
2:11 is my exact rig a goliath 3 and son of bertha. I use a pre fender swr sm400 hybrid head and Spector basses. Small shows I do use just the 4x10. Love my gear. His go light is cheaper stuff like the working man seres. Also my 15 has a tweeter I can dial up and doesnt sound muddy at all. And my head has a d.i. that sound guys use and it IS my sound aside their e.q.
Trying to get Duff Mckagan’s tone, and I am thinking about getting GK 212 cab, maybe add a 1x15, or 410 with a 115. Some people say that 212 is a compromise between the two. If anyone has any suggestions, then please let me know!
@Bass Boy J, Not that the quality or speaker size and cabinet brand isn't important it is. But if you're looking to get a tone like Duff's you need to start with the bass you're playing. Although Duff has many different branded bass guitars, because he can. : ) IMO and I'd bet he'd tell you the same, his tone comes from a American made Fender Precision Bass. That's the biggest part of getting his tone without a doubt! And Duff is actually endorsed by Fender that offer 2 models of Duff McKagan P Bass designs. Huge difference and factor to the sound you want. Also Rotosound rs66 strings, MXR Bass Chorus Deluxe, 2x15 cabinet which early Gn'R he used GK amps & cabs, crank up the treble and Rock n' Roll !
So what if you have an 8 ohm amp does that mean that you can't have two speaker cabinets connected to it
Do you think 2x10 cabinet is worth it did live performs? Like clubs, bars etc
Tidbit.
Ohms is a measurement of resistance. So the bigger the number, the more resistance, the less power youre using
Easy way to think of it. 4ohms to 1 cab. = 4. 8phms to 2 cabs (8/2) = 4.
Both SWR and SUNN were bought out by Fender who then took their technology and incorporated into their Bassman and Superbassman heads. Personally I have been using mid 90's Trace Elliott equipment, before they too were bought out by Gibson who in turn sold them to Peavey. There are new Trace Elliott rigs on the market but Lord knows where they are made and how good they are.
I use a 1500 watt, two monoblock bi-amp, class d amp into a 4x10 and a 1x18. The amp is very light, but the speaker cabs will give you a hernia.
30 years ago i had an EMC 1972 solid state amp/pa. 8 inputs/8 outputs at 400 watts each, 2 18 inch speakers (400 watts each,
not light, but i'm a big man... ) it served me well when some sound-tech cut me from the band ( a trio !!! )
just crank to 10 et voila !!! Not an average practice amp.
Excellent explanation, you made it clear and cut to the chase.. Thank you!
I love my whole Hartke rig ( HA3500 head,4x10" and 1x15" cabs) but I'm considering a 2x10" modern and lighter combo. As you say, most of the times the amp is for hearing yourself on the stage. If there is a decent monitor system I usually bring out my Sansamp.
Not all amp heads are 4ohm heads. Many are, some are 2 ohms and some but not as many are only capable of 8 ohm loads. Your cabinet impedence limits should be based on whatever minimum load your amp explicitly states as it's minimum impedence
Thanks for explaining how 4ohm/8ohm works!
Just want to say SWR didn't go out of business, Fender bought them and shut them down, along with Hamer and Genz-Benz. Sucks because Hamer and SWR were 2 of my favorite brands. Someone recently bought Hamer and started doing import instruments only right now. Hopefully there will be enough interest for US instruments. But Mike Shishkov is building high quality US guitars in the Hamer tradition. Don't know if anyone can bring SWR or Genz Benz back because Fender probably bought them for technology patents. Notice how Fender's modern amps have improver over the past 5+ years since buying SWR and Genz.
My main amps are *still* my SWR Mini Mo’, the preamp-only version of their “Mo’ Bass” head with built-in Analog Effects (Overdrive/Distortion, Chorus, Envelope Filter, Octave & additional EQ and Boost) for when Effects just need to be the basics and load-in/out quick and easy, or my 2nd generation “Interstellar Overdrive” for when I want more of a natural SVT-type Tone along with more Effects options when using my larger Outboard Pedalboard.
From their I have the option of using any combination of my Avatar 1x12”, 2x10” or 2x12” Neodymium-loaded Cabinets - I just had the B210 & B212 until I picked up a used Neo B112 for a pittance at my local GC. That gave me the option to have a “Mini Stack” 2x10” & 1x12” set-up between the full 2x10” & 2x12” or just the 2x12” single cabinet (the original reason I chose the 2x10”/2x12” was because the Mini Mo’ had a “Dual Bass” mode that splits the Effected & Uneffected Signals, which I could continue to use with the 2x10”/1x12”.
I realize I was late getting into the SWR Game, but having my two preamps is good enough for me...I can’t imagine what my own personal tone would be like without them. 😳
Genz is back via Jeff Genzler's new brand, Genzler. I just got one and they kick ass!
GK! MB212 w/ MBP212 Weighs in at 82 lbs total 4x12s at 1000w
BOOM! Your video is a perfect example of never being too old to learn something new. I'm not a young kid anymore. I've been playing guitar professionally since WAY before you were born but I have to say that I still found your knowledge and experience very very informative. Now, I'm not a bass player, I'm a guitarist. But HEY, that means that I can play bass too - right? I fully understand your pain when having to move heavy amps and cabs in and out of venues. But I honestly did not know about these ultra light heads and speakers. This is great stuff to know as I am shopping for a bass rig currently. I fully agree with your take on the 10" speakers vs the larger ones. I used to have an Ampeg with 8 10" speakers back when we didn't have options other than to carry around massive boxes. That rig always sounded better than the ones with the bigger speakers. When talking about the impedance of various speakers and cabs, I've always likened them to flowing water through a garden hose. A single hose will have so much resistance. If you run this into a "Y" connector and divide the first hose into two, the water can now flow easier because it's half the resistance. By the same token, if you have two 8 ohm cabs and run them in parallel, you have a total load of 4 ohms because you've divided the signal to each by half. In the good old days when I was playing an old Les through a Marshall stack (and giving myself a lifetime case of tinnitus XD) I had just what you're saying here. The Marshall head was designed for a total load of 4 ohms and each cab had four Celestions wired for 8 ohms. I ended up with a total impedance of 4 ohms. However, for rehearsals, I only wanted to have to carry one cab around and so, I was losing efficiency but still, it worked...ok...it was't bad but it never really cooked like it did on stage with both cabs. I have not played many venues in recent years with a house system and a sound man to run it. If I had stopped to think about it, I would have realized that a pre-EQ DI box is very important to a sound guy that knows his business. So, in addition to the rest of the information in your great video, than you very much for opening my eyes to that DI box situation. I just learned a lot from you young man. Thanx
+David Grason Thank you for the great comment! I'm glad my video was helpful!
On that note mark the bass wizard, i suggest to many of your viewers to get a fender rumble 200 watt, it is perfect for practicing in your house if you keep the volume low, and to carry it, it only weighs 34 lbs and that is killer weight for a big sound, if you think that's too heavy try the rumble 100 the new model is only 22 lbs and it has a delta comp limiter, and a compressor that gets going once you're past voule 5-7 maybe all the way, the limiter is so that you don't damage the speaker and cleverly enough the 500 watt, the king of the fender rumble V3 series is only 36 lbs which i think is brilliant, because not many 500 watt class D solid state amps weight 36 lbs, actually now that i said that is true there are none, but this one the amp is new in 2014 so the 50 watt will run you like 600 bucks or something like that, i got my 100 watt for 350
+Ernesto Chang I'm thinking about the Fender combo 500 with 2x10" speakers vs Fender 200 watts combo with 1x15" ??? I have a Neo GK 1 x15" bass cabinet that I'll use it with one or the other option. and I'm not sure what option will be better 1.- Combo 200 and GK = 2 x15'' speakers
2.- Combo 500 will be 2x10" and 1 x15" speakers
i don't know about combos, but the amps on their own sound good
Hello, excuse me, my English ... my question is: if I have a 300w (ashdown blue) head and I want to connect a homemade two-speaker cabinet ... what impedance should the horns have and how many waats does each speaker have?
I've got a 550x and run through a GK 410sbx....one of the best sounding rigs I've ever played through.
Thanks for the clear explanation of the combination ohms and watts
What about combo amps? Are they any good for smaller venues?
loved the way you described the ohms!