@@alan4x i did my chain replacement like you . but now, i have a sound like turbo when i rev the engine .... any idea? ( like a turbo whistle ) . every hose is on place, no dtc....
Thx, this is my 3rd mondeo sinds 2005. Love these cars and I maintanace and repair it myself. Easy to acces and not much electronics. Never had an electronix failure. Netherlands!!!
@@blackdynamite9940 Heb al eerder een bericht gestuurd, maar geen reaktie. Ik woon in Capelle aan den IJssel. Ik wil je best helpen met je auto. Ik hoor het wel. Gr Rob.
OMG Thank you for making this video. Someone ripped me off when I bought a LS foucs and I decided to do a full rebuild instead of wasting money and trashing the car. I pulled the motor out and started to strip it. When I discovered it had do timing marks I was ready to give up and admit defeat to satan and start crying. I'm going to continue to proceed now that I have some grip on the concept. Thank you
My mk4 petrol has done 141,000 miles and is whisper quiet, uses no oil and gets me 36mpg. The duratec is a Japanese designed engine that's got enough torque to pull in a high gear at lower speed. The v6 duratec is not so robust with many suffering head gasket failures. I had 2 mk1 v6 mondeos that both went the same way. My first was a v6 S.i and the second was a ghia x. The problem was with the waterpump that had the plastic impeller which would detach from the shaft which resulted in overheating. And once those v6 engines cook then head gasket failure is virtually inevitable. Weak spots on that engine were cylinders 3 and 5 that would eventually 'vent', both mine made a ticking noise that sounded like an exhaust leak. Very few if any problems with the 2.0 engine and is a good balance between power and economy. Great video by the way!
Simon I have the same car. I am doubting the dual mass flywheel however, which I believe is fitted. How is yours? Otherwise perfect engine except valve cover stuck like Alan showed
@@marinusapeldoorn6631 I had the clutch and flywheel done last year. The petrol version is a lot kinder to the flywheel than diesels which produce more torque. The one I had fitted was a brand called LUK. I changed the auxillary belt, idle pulley and tensioner, they have a long service interval of 150k miles! I changed the valve cover gasket too as there was a bit of oil that had leaked into spark plug ports 2 and 4. Usual wear and tear items like discs and pads and tyres etc too. Still has the original exhaust and cat though! Probably the most comfortable car I've ever driven.
@@simonjohnhinton1938 I bought mine at 80000 miles at a Ford dealership. Immaculate car but shock absorbers totally worn and major oil leak from right hand drive gear box oil seal, which had been able to be ignored by 3 different Ford dealers who maintained the car during the first 9 years of its life. The selling Ford dealer cleaned up the gear box and hoped I didn' t notice. However I did and the right hand horizontal drive shaft part had to be replaced because of not being round enough or being too rough on the surface, causing the oil seal to be broken again every time it was replaced under guarantee. Car is fine now, I had the shocks replaced by Bilstein B6. Would you be willing for a little technical experiment which is not too complicated, just out of technical curiosity? Regards from Netherlands.
my poverty engine in my mk4 mondeo still going strong. 149k and still drives superb. 36.6 mpg combined and uses no oil between changes. the cam chains are pretty robust but its all about maintenance, I change the oil every 6k and the engine is super quiet on the move.
Hi Alan, i just want to thank you for thsi video. I'm about to put one of these engines from a breakers into my mk3 Mondeo Ghia X, currently burns about 1 litre of oil per week and i'm refreshing all the bottom end seals. This has just made my little project so much easier. Big thanks mate, think you've earned a sub.
I could not think of doing a job like that , that's why i change my oil at 5000 miles and drive it like i am running it in, but love watching you in your videos cheers Alan.
Since I bought a mondeo mk4 duratec 2.0 a month ago for my wife to drive around the city, this video will help me to take care of the timing chain and the camshafts for checking the valve clearance. I'm planing to install LPG as well then this has to be checked quite often. I've seen stretched timing chains in this engines especially with LPG. If you ever have chance to make a video about Valve Clearance Adjustment in Duratec engines, please make it. Most people don't know they have to check Valve Clearance from time to time especially in high mileage cars and quite often when using LPG. Thanks for all your videos.
Absolutely brilliant videos, Alan. I have used them for many tasks with complete success. Havent tried a cambelt yet, but done the Mondeo V front hub bearing, LED lights and rear pads. Great!.
I currently own a 2006 1.8 mk3 petrol, I've had it close to 5 years , been pretty reliable , I have replaced the chain and its parts etc as the tensioner gave up most likely down to poor servicing on the previous owner , although the car isn't all that powerful , its reliability makes up for this , everyone I talk to tell me that the engine itself doesn't last all that long due to the piston ring and manifold problem , it hasn't had either problem show and the car is currently on 188000 miles and is still quiet, cant fault the duratecs , thanks for posting mate
A lot of so called mechanics waffle on and don't actually explain things clearly or correctly however Alan does plus he adds a bit of humour to boot! Great video sir! Bingo!
Quality work as ever. I'd agree that to do that with the engine still fitted would be almost impossible, especially trying to do the locking pins and crankshaft torque. FYI - The crankshaft pulley, the timing teeth works on the principal on one tooth missing. There was a full ring of time, equally spaced but where TDC is, there is one tooth missing. Some engines do one tooth missing the others do one singe tooth at TDC. I'm waiting on the next video where you pull apart the bottom end so that we can see some melted bearings :)
Man you just made things a lot better for what I have to do. I had the exhaust cam jump a couple teeth due to a mistake I made that I won't get into. The fact that the cam gears aren't keyed to the cams means I can just loosen the bolt on the exhaust cam, advance it back to the proper position with the intake cam, and then just retighten the bolt. Inspection camera showed no metal bits or damage to the pistons, whether I bent the exhaust valves is yet to be determined.
Great video as usual Alan. At 25:30 you mention about being able to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts if the locking tool wasn't fitting into the slots in the other end of the camshafts but that while you could re- tighten the sprocket bolts, you couldn't torque them. All would not be lost though, if you had crowfoot wrenches available. :)
Mines had a lot of maintenance over the years. (Touch wood) it's had a pretty hard life before I had it. (640000 miles). I then do a fair bit of standard maintenance on this engine and its now on 160000 miles. I've had my fun with it but it still sound solid. Despite the horror stories of the butter made bottom end on the ford fiesta St 150.
Granted your instructions were fantastic, I, and several friends, still couldn’t get the timing right after doing the head gaskets on my 02’ 2.3 ranger and I just sold the motor for $200. Time for a HO 5.0 or carb’d 302
You can use a normal bolt instead of the pin, just put it at top dead center and then put the bolt in till it is up against the crank, it can't turn anymore than your bolt and its got more surface area so you don't have to worry about bending the pin when you mess with your pulley for the crank
Hello mate I work as a fork truck engineer And the chain on the 2 litre ford petrol engine is very similar With multiple plates on a single link So basically if the same style on chain on a counter balance is similar in design typically the ford chain I'd say is damb near indestructible Any just thought I'd add a different perspective Love the videos I've got the 1.8 lynx engine(converted to chain....wet chain) And a mk3 duratorq 2.0 litre in a focus titanium x navigator Cheers mate
Thank You. Confirms what I've been told about timing chains (clearly my rattle is not from there) and advises me that this is clearly not to be attempted 'engine in', and is perhaps impossible (no clearance to remove bolts / casing, even after you've struggled to get at them)
I am a big fan of the Mk3 Mondeo, I've had 4 of them. On the 03 model you might want to look out for this problem between 80 and 120K miles. ruclips.net/video/amRXA22ofds/видео.html
Hi I’m amazed as a trainee looking at that crankshaft pulley having no key way hopefully that bolt that holds the pulley is torqued up really high because as you say the oil pump sprocket on the crank shaft is held in place by the compression of that bolt meaning a lose bolt could with the engine running allow the oil pump to free wheel and stop functioning. I’m really surprised fords allowed that? Great vids alan.
This is a *MAZDA Engine Type L6*. I think from the time periode Mazda and Ford have a closer look what they have developed ... Ford only changed a few thinks (I think). As far as I know there is in the Mondeo MK3 commuity *in germany absolute no owner with a lose pulley*. Attention = the petrol 1,8 Li Duratec SCi directinjection engine is a lot different and have a lot identcal parts but the expensive parts + service ... ok I stop at thise point ... (see the intake camshaft and you understand and all around the directinjection AND search for internet forum).
Thank you for sharing, maybe I'd be able to repeat your steps (but wouldn't dare in the end because too much money involved if I do anything wrong). Very interesting to see though. Wish you a nice day! :)
Thanks for this upload great information. Wondering if you can help as I replaced head gasket done the timing but can't get the motor to start. Any ideas on what to look at
Alan been scroling your vids looking for info by the way your vid are fantastic. I wonder if you could help me? I have a 1.6 tdci engine and the belt snapped what I'm finding hard to get the info on is where should the piston be when I time the crack. on my engine all pistons are level near the bottom and 2 and 3 are on there way up would this be right? thanks
hi, if you give me your reg number i can look up where your crank and camshaft sprockets should sit when you fit a new timing belt but generally pistons 1 and 4 would be near top dead centre and pistons 2 and 3 would be near the bottom of the cylinders
@@alan4x yeah thanks for the reply my reg is ML64 YPX, I've been told this of a few guys that 1 and 4 should be tdc. I came across a forum chat which was saying that the magnetic ring on the crack sprocket can come loose and spin round have you ever come across this ?
@@dannye6070 i left an image on my community tab for timing up your cam belt but the magnetic ring on the crank is normally fitted onto a woodruff key...i have not personally known them to spin
Nice video! I just bought my ford Mondeo 2006 Mk3 Station Wagon (BWY) 1.8L Benzine 125 PK. After 5 days I found out it’s used 1 liter oil on 100km 😕. Now I wanna rebuild the engine, but I have a few questions. 1: How can I check if my timing chain need to be replaced. 2: Do I need to replace my pistons and hone the cilinders (or can I only replace the rings on the pistons. 3: If I loose my piston rods do I need te replace the bearings if they look ok?. I hope you can help me out, and if you have other tips please let me know! Thank you so much! Friendly regards, Toby
I wish the timing cover was that design on the Puma oil burner of the same era. The diesel one is a bit of pressed tin. Impossible to get off without distorting as it has a bigger contact surface area to the block by the aircon compressor. And a nightmare to try and get off in the car. I had the pawl fail in the tensioner on my 54 plate @ about 110k miles. I got it before it jumped the timing. At idle with lower oil pressure the chain slopped around! Did the guides etc at the same time. Something gone again inside it now at 220K but its got other issues with the fuel system now. Sounds like a guide gone.There was quite a bit of chain stretch on it. Apart from the early swirl flaps and coil packs, they were a great engine with few weak points so long as you maintained them. This was the era when ford had money invested in Mazda.
Had to stop at 0:17 and give thumbs up :D Btw. did Ford use some kind of universal set of timing tools back those days? Those look to my remembering pretty much identical to 1.8 endura diesel timing tools. Though I made them from drillbits, flat bars and bolts as poor kid.
cheers jothain ..not sure but probably did as quite a few ford engines were using very similar timing pins and that setting bar for cams fits all sorts
Hey there Alan, really enjoy your entertaining approach to vids. I'm looking at a 2.3L Duratec with a leaking front crank seal. I believe this is the same 2.3L in the pre-skyactiv Mazda6's?? In any case, I'm just trying to be certain as to whether I can remove the crank pulley to get to the seal without having to do all the re-timing palava ... ie is the timing sprocket loose behind the pulley or fixed to the crank timing chain sprocket so it can't move once pulley is removed. Thanks;-)
Hi Alan, is the ford spec'd 913c/d oil essential for engine longegity? Recently bought a second hand 2013 Focus TDCI here in Taiwan, which I believe has the same engine. The ford spec w913c oil isnt easily found here, and dealer serviced with Motul 8100 x clean 5w30 (not the ford spec). Your videos are superb!
You got me laughing Alan with your entrance 😄, anyway good informative video , I enjoy learning about engines , specially the duratech engines as I have a 125 duratech fiesta , but I like learning about the other ford engines , bye for now , by the way , I like seeing you basket the alternator , from Tony from bedfordshire 👍😊
Glad you done a Duratec HE engine, funny how you made reference to the oil drinking, I have this problem in mt Fiesta ST150, its the same engine, aperently its a problem with the oil control piston rings, mines parked up till one day when I have the time and energy to attemt a rebuild.... or maybe I could find a mondeo and swap the higher spec head? Anyways Thanks
We Will Rock You. I've got that as an earworm now after the parts bin thuds make the first three beats. Buddy you're a boy make a big noise! This is what lock down does to you lol.
Alan help! Mondeo mk3 2006 130 hp tdci. Is there easy way the check timing chain and timing? Starting sound is not right to my ears. Car not run at all. Fuel pressure about 400 bar when starting so it good.
Glad I found this video have the same engine but I lost compression sounds like a bunch of marbles need to remove the head helps me quite a bit with the timing do you have a video on head removal thanks for your help
Questions, questions and questions? when you insert the pin in the rear of the block, what is the length of the pin? I bought the kit on amazon for the timing belt, one of pins is 2 1/4 long in length. the other is 3 inch. - / +
Alan I followed your video to change timing chain and alls perfect , built engine back up and now when I run the engine it’s spitting oil from somewhere , any clue to where it’s losing the oil from, if the crank seal is not 100% flush and is inside the casing a tad would this cause the problem??
Great video! About to time a 2.5 duratec myself and this helps quite a bit. For curiosity sake did you notice any sort of diamond washers behind the crank pulley or the cams on initial teardown that would need replacement?
done a few bmw chains and not impressed plus the oil pick up pipe in the sump is so narrow it sucks up all the broken chain guide plastic and starves the engine of oil
Good to know the timing chain is a strong part of these engines, mine has covered 129k miles and still on the original timing chain.😯⚠️😁 I doubt very much you could do this with the engine still in the car? Only issue I've had with this engine is the silly EGR valve getting stuck open! 😯⚠️
Pretty sure this is identical to my 2L mk3 mx5 engine, it would be great if you could check that is the case and add it to the description! I can't find ANY videos nearly this thorough on youtube. We already destroyed 1 engine because we didn't know about the crankshaft positioning bolt -_- now the new engine that we didn't do anything with has started making horrible banging noises and the timing chain is so loose you can move it between the cam shafts a good 3-5cm!!! something is broken in there and i'm going to use some of the techniques i see in this video to help me this time!
Nice vid, on the bench is way easier than in the car ....Alan no diamond washers on the crank?I,ve Never come across a duratec who didn,t have one on the crank, later mazda 3 do even have them on the cams.
Timing chains on ST250's sound like they are gonna break or come off altogether when the engine is hot, mix the direct injection ticking, HPFP Ticking, DMF flap on tickover and the timing chain noise.
The ST250 is a V6 engine. Normal not many noise. But older engines ... ... noise = engine is ceying for service immediatily. Even the 4 cyl Duratec HE (or SCI) engine is very quite. Noise means wear and very very soon a service. Ignore these noise and you will pay a lot more. Mk3 is older than 26 years = often economic desaster to repair these old engine. Buy a other MK3 but never ever spnd a lot of money. Ok , when the chasis is in good shape and the engine is well serviced since years ...
Hi Allan, its great to see your videos and those funny moments (Brit humor :D ) and because i have been searching in your channel about a 2.0D for these mk3 engines here am i asking for help. I see several guys posting a lot of knowledge but it feels awesome to see the simplicity you tackle several problems. I tried to send you pm using yt but isnt available because im trying to learn how to fix my own mk3 2.0d and maybe you can help me by giving me some leads or tip top. my glow-plugs got stacked and the only way to remove them is to get out the engine or disassemble it from the top (engine bay) but before i even try i would like to ask you for advice and the torque values to tight back these elements. thanks in advance. cheers from poland
as a ford guy , this channel is pure gold ! NEVER STOP please !
thanks
@@alan4x i did my chain replacement like you . but now, i have a sound like turbo when i rev the engine .... any idea? ( like a turbo whistle ) . every hose is on place, no dtc....
There's really a lot of knowledge involved in this kind of work. It's nice that you are showing it to people.
cheers mikofi
😀
@@abderrahimhaddanitankioupr9367 it was gold!
Thx, this is my 3rd mondeo sinds 2005. Love these cars and I maintanace and repair it myself. Easy to acces and not much electronics. Never had an electronix failure. Netherlands!!!
Ik heb ook een mondeo uit 2005 waar in Nederland zit je? Heb je interesse in een betalende klant ter reparatie?
@@blackdynamite9940 Ik woon in Capelle a/d IJssel. Wat is het probleem?
Mijn email is brahmanrob@gmail.com. Ik hoor het wel.
@@blackdynamite9940 Heb al eerder een bericht gestuurd, maar geen reaktie. Ik woon in Capelle aan den IJssel. Ik wil je best helpen met je auto. Ik hoor het wel. Gr Rob.
@@robbeguine612 hi dank voor je reactie ik heb je zojuist een mailtje gestuurd 😉
OMG Thank you for making this video. Someone ripped me off when I bought a LS foucs and I decided to do a full rebuild instead of wasting money and trashing the car. I pulled the motor out and started to strip it. When I discovered it had do timing marks I was ready to give up and admit defeat to satan and start crying. I'm going to continue to proceed now that I have some grip on the concept. Thank you
your welcome david
I'm no mechanic but really love your vids mate, you know what you're doing and seem to have a lot of fun at work - good for you
thanks romac😊
My mk4 petrol has done 141,000 miles and is whisper quiet, uses no oil and gets me 36mpg. The duratec is a Japanese designed engine that's got enough torque to pull in a high gear at lower speed. The v6 duratec is not so robust with many suffering head gasket failures. I had 2 mk1 v6 mondeos that both went the same way. My first was a v6 S.i and the second was a ghia x. The problem was with the waterpump that had the plastic impeller which would detach from the shaft which resulted in overheating. And once those v6 engines cook then head gasket failure is virtually inevitable. Weak spots on that engine were cylinders 3 and 5 that would eventually 'vent', both mine made a ticking noise that sounded like an exhaust leak. Very few if any problems with the 2.0 engine and is a good balance between power and economy. Great video by the way!
Simon I have the same car. I am doubting the dual mass flywheel however, which I believe is fitted. How is yours? Otherwise perfect engine except valve cover stuck like Alan showed
thanks simon, nice information
@@marinusapeldoorn6631 I had the clutch and flywheel done last year. The petrol version is a lot kinder to the flywheel than diesels which produce more torque. The one I had fitted was a brand called LUK. I changed the auxillary belt, idle pulley and tensioner, they have a long service interval of 150k miles! I changed the valve cover gasket too as there was a bit of oil that had leaked into spark plug ports 2 and 4. Usual wear and tear items like discs and pads and tyres etc too. Still has the original exhaust and cat though! Probably the most comfortable car I've ever driven.
@@simonjohnhinton1938 I bought mine at 80000 miles at a Ford dealership. Immaculate car but shock absorbers totally worn and major oil leak from right hand drive gear box oil seal, which had been able to be ignored by 3 different Ford dealers who maintained the car during the first 9 years of its life. The selling Ford dealer cleaned up the gear box and hoped I didn' t notice. However I did and the right hand horizontal drive shaft part had to be replaced because of not being round enough or being too rough on the surface, causing the oil seal to be broken again every time it was replaced under guarantee. Car is fine now, I had the shocks replaced by Bilstein B6. Would you be willing for a little technical experiment which is not too complicated, just out of technical curiosity? Regards from Netherlands.
This budget Bruce Willis knows his shit.
Nice one mate thanks. Was scratching my head but the crankshaft sprocket floating has explained the mystery!!
my poverty engine in my mk4 mondeo still going strong. 149k and still drives superb. 36.6 mpg combined and uses no oil between changes. the cam chains are pretty robust but its all about maintenance, I change the oil every 6k and the engine is super quiet on the move.
Hi Alan, i just want to thank you for thsi video. I'm about to put one of these engines from a breakers into my mk3 Mondeo Ghia X, currently burns about 1 litre of oil per week and i'm refreshing all the bottom end seals. This has just made my little project so much easier. Big thanks mate, think you've earned a sub.
thanks tam..glad it helped
I could not think of doing a job like that , that's why i change my oil at 5000 miles and drive it like i am running it in, but love watching you in your videos cheers Alan.
thanks charles..🤪
Since I bought a mondeo mk4 duratec 2.0 a month ago for my wife to drive around the city, this video will help me to take care of the timing chain and the camshafts for checking the valve clearance. I'm planing to install LPG as well then this has to be checked quite often. I've seen stretched timing chains in this engines especially with LPG. If you ever have chance to make a video about Valve Clearance Adjustment in Duratec engines, please make it. Most people don't know they have to check Valve Clearance from time to time especially in high mileage cars and quite often when using LPG. Thanks for all your videos.
Absolutely brilliant videos, Alan. I have used them for many tasks with complete success. Havent tried a cambelt yet, but done the Mondeo V front hub bearing, LED lights and rear pads. Great!.
thats fantastic, thanks smarty, funny thing is sometimes i have to watch my own videos when i forget to do things lol
I currently own a 2006 1.8 mk3 petrol, I've had it close to 5 years , been pretty reliable , I have replaced the chain and its parts etc as the tensioner gave up most likely down to poor servicing on the previous owner , although the car isn't all that powerful , its reliability makes up for this , everyone I talk to tell me that the engine itself doesn't last all that long due to the piston ring and manifold problem , it hasn't had either problem show and the car is currently on 188000 miles and is still quiet, cant fault the duratecs , thanks for posting mate
Thanks for sparing me the mind-bending music.
lmao😁
It’s an incredible simple chain system compared to newer engines
A lot of so called mechanics waffle on and don't actually explain things clearly or correctly however Alan does plus he adds a bit of humour to boot! Great video sir! Bingo!
thank you E Rashio😁
I do this for a living yet I find myself watching this?
Great info Al as usual
Your camera work is excellent
More Monica please
Eyes off, she's mine
cheers dragster 46😊
Quality work as ever.
I'd agree that to do that with the engine still fitted would be almost impossible, especially trying to do the locking pins and crankshaft torque.
FYI - The crankshaft pulley, the timing teeth works on the principal on one tooth missing. There was a full ring of time, equally spaced but where TDC is, there is one tooth missing. Some engines do one tooth missing the others do one singe tooth at TDC.
I'm waiting on the next video where you pull apart the bottom end so that we can see some melted bearings :)
right oh lol..i will when in get time🤪
My poverty engine just burned 2 valves at 170k, I never touched the engine part from service - great video thank you
Man you just made things a lot better for what I have to do. I had the exhaust cam jump a couple teeth due to a mistake I made that I won't get into. The fact that the cam gears aren't keyed to the cams means I can just loosen the bolt on the exhaust cam, advance it back to the proper position with the intake cam, and then just retighten the bolt.
Inspection camera showed no metal bits or damage to the pistons, whether I bent the exhaust valves is yet to be determined.
hope you get it sorted
Great video as usual Alan.
At 25:30 you mention about being able to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts if the locking tool wasn't fitting into the slots in the other end of the camshafts but that while you could re- tighten the sprocket bolts, you couldn't torque them. All would not be lost though, if you had crowfoot wrenches available. :)
thanks for that comment rommel..that is an excellent way🙃
Thank You for Your contribution to society of ford. Bet You have helped a lot of people with this video.
thanks kon😊
Great job. These engines are nicely built for the technician bit like the 1.8tdci.
Great job a lot of knowledge. Now I know why people said this timing was hard without the right tools.🤔👍
Thanks 👍
Love the multilink chain - looks so solid and stable in comparison to W203 or BMW as you've said ⛓️ thank you for showing!
Right in time! Thank You Alan :) hearty greetings from Warsaw
Mines had a lot of maintenance over the years. (Touch wood) it's had a pretty hard life before I had it. (640000 miles). I then do a fair bit of standard maintenance on this engine and its now on 160000 miles. I've had my fun with it but it still sound solid. Despite the horror stories of the butter made bottom end on the ford fiesta St 150.
this guy's great. makes it look easy and very easy to follow. thanks mate.
Granted your instructions were fantastic, I, and several friends, still couldn’t get the timing right after doing the head gaskets on my 02’ 2.3 ranger and I just sold the motor for $200.
Time for a HO 5.0 or carb’d 302
Great video, would love to see how the oil pump chain is changed as well thou, as I would like to change mine while I have it all apart 🤔👍
VAG and BMW could learn a thing or two from Ford on how to design a good timing chain set up, tell Monica I still love her.
vincent o'donnell you mean mazda, it’s a mazda engine
@@WOER-jt3hv Thanks for that, so the Japanese win again.
So much for German engineering quality
@@WOER-jt3hv Isn't this a PSA engine?
i didn't know it was a mazda engine till after i made this vid...i do now🤪
You can use a normal bolt instead of the pin, just put it at top dead center and then put the bolt in till it is up against the crank, it can't turn anymore than your bolt and its got more surface area so you don't have to worry about bending the pin when you mess with your pulley for the crank
Hi Alan. Thanks for this very good video. I have seen it already 3 times. Best greetings from Germany. Klaus
Brilliant straight forward, no shit music, excellent description, helped me understand what I'm up against when I do mine 🤯
Nice one.
I don’t suppose you have a video on the 2 litre DOHC SIERRA Engine?
Thank you.
unfortunately not...i wish i did..that would have been a good one
Best video, I’ve found on this subject,
Glad it was helpful
British is the best on the world to explain techinacly stuff !!
Nice job, that's very funny and interesting to watch (:
Hello mate I work as a fork truck engineer
And the chain on the 2 litre ford petrol engine is very similar
With multiple plates on a single link
So basically if the same style on chain on a counter balance is similar in design typically the ford chain I'd say is damb near indestructible
Any just thought I'd add a different perspective
Love the videos
I've got the 1.8 lynx engine(converted to chain....wet chain)
And a mk3 duratorq 2.0 litre in a focus titanium x navigator
Cheers mate
Thank You. Confirms what I've been told about timing chains (clearly my rattle is not from there) and advises me that this is clearly not to be attempted 'engine in', and is perhaps impossible (no clearance to remove bolts / casing, even after you've struggled to get at them)
@ 4:19 you actually broke a piece off... I have watched this video several times... and I just now realized this.!! Great video fyi!
Is this the same engine as the fiesta st 150 as I’m about to rebuild mine but struggling to find any good videos that go into detail like yours
Same engine yes it is, I’m having a problem with my st150 think it’s the cam chain that’s why I’m here 😂
Nice job very interesting keep them coming mate 👍👍👍
cheers anthony
Thx man for all hard work you put in.
Just brought a 03 reg 2.0 x only 50k on the clock great news that these are really reliable 👍
I am a big fan of the Mk3 Mondeo, I've had 4 of them. On the 03 model you might want to look out for this problem between 80 and 120K miles. ruclips.net/video/amRXA22ofds/видео.html
Hi I’m amazed as a trainee looking at that crankshaft pulley having no key way hopefully that bolt that holds the pulley is torqued up really high because as you say the oil pump sprocket on the crank shaft is held in place by the compression of that bolt meaning a lose bolt could with the engine running allow the oil pump to free wheel and stop functioning. I’m really surprised fords allowed that?
Great vids alan.
This is a *MAZDA Engine Type L6*.
I think from the time periode Mazda and Ford have a closer look what they have developed ...
Ford only changed a few thinks (I think).
As far as I know there is in the Mondeo MK3 commuity *in germany absolute no owner with a lose pulley*.
Attention = the petrol 1,8 Li Duratec SCi directinjection engine is a lot different and have a lot identcal parts but the expensive parts + service ... ok I stop at thise point ...
(see the intake camshaft and you understand and all around the directinjection AND search for internet forum).
Great clear camera work. You know the game, like you said, not a great job in the car!
Thank you for sharing, maybe I'd be able to repeat your steps (but wouldn't dare in the end because too much money involved if I do anything wrong). Very interesting to see though. Wish you a nice day! :)
i have never had one of those chains fail so hopefully you never will need to do one😁
I'm in a 2001 Mondeo 1.8 Duratec petrol. 113K miles and no issues thus far. Never broken down. Been a great car. Garaged every night and very clean.
they are good cars and engines
Thanks for this upload great information. Wondering if you can help as I replaced head gasket done the timing but can't get the motor to start. Any ideas on what to look at
Alan been scroling your vids looking for info by the way your vid are fantastic. I wonder if you could help me? I have a 1.6 tdci engine and the belt snapped what I'm finding hard to get the info on is where should the piston be when I time the crack. on my engine all pistons are level near the bottom and 2 and 3 are on there way up would this be right?
thanks
hi, if you give me your reg number i can look up where your crank and camshaft sprockets should sit when you fit a new timing belt but generally pistons 1 and 4 would be near top dead centre and pistons 2 and 3 would be near the bottom of the cylinders
@@alan4x yeah thanks for the reply my reg is ML64 YPX, I've been told this of a few guys that 1 and 4 should be tdc. I came across a forum chat which was saying that the magnetic ring on the crack sprocket can come loose and spin round have you ever come across this ?
@@dannye6070 i left an image on my community tab for timing up your cam belt but the magnetic ring on the crank is normally fitted onto a woodruff key...i have not personally known them to spin
Your accent is addressing my ancestors 😂 great channel🤙🏻
You are great mechanic and narrator!
Someone Give this lad his own TV show .
Those non-keyed pulleys always seem pretty sketchy on the petrol engines. Great stuff as always
yeah sketchy is the word lol...not had one come loose yet🤪
@@alan4x they do seem to remain tight, but catches people out that just pop off the crank pulley to get to the water pump 😂
Why didn’t you use one of the tools to hold the harmonic balancer from spinning?
Will the two bolts plus the alignment tool hold everything?
Nice video! I just bought my ford Mondeo 2006 Mk3 Station Wagon (BWY) 1.8L Benzine 125 PK. After 5 days I found out it’s used 1 liter oil on 100km 😕. Now I wanna rebuild the engine, but I have a few questions. 1: How can I check if my timing chain need to be replaced. 2: Do I need to replace my pistons and hone the cilinders (or can I only replace the rings on the pistons. 3: If I loose my piston rods do I need te replace the bearings if they look ok?. I hope you can help me out, and if you have other tips please let me know! Thank you so much! Friendly regards, Toby
I wish the timing cover was that design on the Puma oil burner of the same era. The diesel one is a bit of pressed tin. Impossible to get off without distorting as it has a bigger contact surface area to the block by the aircon compressor. And a nightmare to try and get off in the car. I had the pawl fail in the tensioner on my 54 plate @ about 110k miles. I got it before it jumped the timing. At idle with lower oil pressure the chain slopped around! Did the guides etc at the same time. Something gone again inside it now at 220K but its got other issues with the fuel system now. Sounds like a guide gone.There was quite a bit of chain stretch on it. Apart from the early swirl flaps and coil packs, they were a great engine with few weak points so long as you maintained them. This was the era when ford had money invested in Mazda.
You are a bloody genius dude
thanks marinus 🤪
Really found this video super helpful...i am just wondering...what is the actual length of that special screw tool if i wanted to make one?
Had to stop at 0:17 and give thumbs up :D Btw. did Ford use some kind of universal set of timing tools back those days? Those look to my remembering pretty much identical to 1.8 endura diesel timing tools. Though I made them from drillbits, flat bars and bolts as poor kid.
cheers jothain ..not sure but probably did as quite a few ford engines were using very similar timing pins and that setting bar for cams fits all sorts
Hocam keşke alt yazı açık olsaydı. Çok ihtiyacım vardı bu videoya.. Selamlar.. 🇹🇷🇹🇷
Hey there Alan, really enjoy your entertaining approach to vids. I'm looking at a 2.3L Duratec with a leaking front crank seal. I believe this is the same 2.3L in the pre-skyactiv Mazda6's?? In any case, I'm just trying to be certain as to whether I can remove the crank pulley to get to the seal without having to do all the re-timing palava ... ie is the timing sprocket loose behind the pulley or fixed to the crank timing chain sprocket so it can't move once pulley is removed. Thanks;-)
Did that engine have spun bearings? Ever diagnose it further?
Hi Alan, is the ford spec'd 913c/d oil essential for engine longegity? Recently bought a second hand 2013 Focus TDCI here in Taiwan, which I believe has the same engine. The ford spec w913c oil isnt easily found here, and dealer serviced with Motul 8100 x clean 5w30 (not the ford spec).
Your videos are superb!
You got me laughing Alan with your entrance 😄, anyway good informative video , I enjoy learning about engines , specially the duratech engines as I have a 125 duratech fiesta , but I like learning about the other ford engines , bye for now , by the way , I like seeing you basket the alternator , from Tony from bedfordshire 👍😊
lol, thanks tony
Glad you done a Duratec HE engine, funny how you made reference to the oil drinking, I have this problem in mt Fiesta ST150, its the same engine, aperently its a problem with the oil control piston rings, mines parked up till one day when I have the time and energy to attemt a rebuild.... or maybe I could find a mondeo and swap the higher spec head? Anyways Thanks
Allen
You are so cool man
Brilliant video again
Phil in stoke
Didn’t realise that these engines where so good.
Very good video. Is this the same engine and procedure as an MX 5 mk3 ?
I dont know. It is a Mazda L6 engine and Ford modifyed only some parts around.
Generall it is a Mazda constuction.
Hi Alan, I’ve got an issue with my Duratec Engine, is that something you’d be able to look at? PS I’m local to St Neots.
The intake manifold of that engine has 2 vaccum actuators. One is for the swirl flaps. What is the second one for?
We Will Rock You. I've got that as an earworm now after the parts bin thuds make the first three beats. Buddy you're a boy make a big noise! This is what lock down does to you lol.
lol🤪
Is that the waste spark system on a mk3? Is that only on vehicles outside of the states
Awesome video. It was informative and very entertaining. Thanks.
Alan help! Mondeo mk3 2006 130 hp tdci. Is there easy way the check timing chain and timing? Starting sound is not right to my ears. Car not run at all. Fuel pressure about 400 bar when starting so it good.
It was what I think. Timing chain’s tensioner was dead and other camshaft was jump of timing
no, not an easy way to check it and to get to it is an ordeal as well
Glad I found this video have the same engine but I lost compression sounds like a bunch of marbles need to remove the head helps me quite a bit with the timing do you have a video on head removal thanks for your help
Questions, questions and questions? when you insert the pin in the rear of the block, what is the length of the pin? I bought the kit on amazon for the timing belt, one of pins is 2 1/4 long in length. the other is 3 inch. - / +
Alan I followed your video to change timing chain and alls perfect , built engine back up and now when I run the engine it’s spitting oil from somewhere , any clue to where it’s losing the oil from, if the crank seal is not 100% flush and is inside the casing a tad would this cause the problem??
How about the crank shaft sensor position?
Top quality video Alan
cheers william
Great video! About to time a 2.5 duratec myself and this helps quite a bit. For curiosity sake did you notice any sort of diamond washers behind the crank pulley or the cams on initial teardown that would need replacement?
no i did not come across anything like that
They are there, they are sooo thin that you will miss them. They need to be replaced and free from grease/oil before tightening.
Nice video my friend...cheers from Portugal and stay safe
cheers ricardo, stay safe yourself
Great video what you said at 6:10 I couldn’t have said it better myself. Just had to do a chain on an N47 Bmw engine 🤦🏽♂️
done a few bmw chains and not impressed plus the oil pick up pipe in the sump is so narrow it sucks up all the broken chain guide plastic and starves the engine of oil
My old man had a early 1.8 mk3, ate it’s piston rings at 85k.
Don’t think later ones suffer that problem.
most of engine failures we get are from overheating
So what is the fundamental problem with the Duratec Engine that turns them into Oil Burners
and can it be avoided ?
Good to know the timing chain is a strong part of these engines, mine has covered 129k miles and still on the original timing chain.😯⚠️😁
I doubt very much you could do this with the engine still in the car?
Only issue I've had with this engine is the silly EGR valve getting stuck open! 😯⚠️
Pretty sure this is identical to my 2L mk3 mx5 engine, it would be great if you could check that is the case and add it to the description!
I can't find ANY videos nearly this thorough on youtube.
We already destroyed 1 engine because we didn't know about the crankshaft positioning bolt -_- now the new engine that we didn't do anything with has started making horrible banging noises and the timing chain is so loose you can move it between the cam shafts a good 3-5cm!!! something is broken in there and i'm going to use some of the techniques i see in this video to help me this time!
Nice vid, on the bench is way easier than in the car ....Alan no diamond washers on the crank?I,ve Never come across a duratec who didn,t have one on the crank, later mazda 3 do even have them on the cams.
none on this one although they are shown on autodata
Timing chains on ST250's sound like they are gonna break or come off altogether when the engine is hot, mix the direct injection ticking, HPFP Ticking, DMF flap on tickover and the timing chain noise.
🤪
The ST250 is a V6 engine.
Normal not many noise.
But older engines ...
... noise = engine is ceying for service immediatily.
Even the 4 cyl Duratec HE (or SCI) engine is very quite.
Noise means wear and very very soon a service.
Ignore these noise and you will pay a lot more.
Mk3 is older than 26 years = often economic desaster to repair these old engine. Buy a other MK3 but never ever spnd a lot of money.
Ok , when the chasis is in good shape and the engine is well serviced since years ...
Hello Alan just wondering have you carried out a video of replacing head gasket for 2:0 litre ford mondo Diesel engine
not yet
Is the engine block aluminum?
Hi Alan love you video's would this video be the same as a Ford potato mondeo mk3 2l tddi duratorq di thanks
Not a bad engine, is it?
pretty good😊
Great video. This is the only video on you tube which explains this. THANKS🎉😂
How would you go about retracting the tensioner while it’s still in car with timing cover still on if possible?
Hi Allan, its great to see your videos and those funny moments (Brit humor :D ) and because i have been searching in your channel about a 2.0D for these mk3 engines here am i asking for help. I see several guys posting a lot of knowledge but it feels awesome to see the simplicity you tackle several problems. I tried to send you pm using yt but isnt available because im trying to learn how to fix my own mk3 2.0d and maybe you can help me by giving me some leads or tip top. my glow-plugs got stacked and the only way to remove them is to get out the engine or disassemble it from the top (engine bay) but before i even try i would like to ask you for advice and the torque values to tight back these elements. thanks in advance. cheers from poland
Is this the same engine as the Fiesta Mk6 ST that also has a 2L duratec? 🤔
Good video Alan. nice to see the timing tools in use before tackling the job. Any idea what kind of mileage that Duratec's done?