Thx, this is my 3rd mondeo sinds 2005. Love these cars and I maintanace and repair it myself. Easy to acces and not much electronics. Never had an electronix failure. Netherlands!!!
@@blackdynamite9940 Heb al eerder een bericht gestuurd, maar geen reaktie. Ik woon in Capelle aan den IJssel. Ik wil je best helpen met je auto. Ik hoor het wel. Gr Rob.
@@alan4x i did my chain replacement like you . but now, i have a sound like turbo when i rev the engine .... any idea? ( like a turbo whistle ) . every hose is on place, no dtc....
OMG Thank you for making this video. Someone ripped me off when I bought a LS foucs and I decided to do a full rebuild instead of wasting money and trashing the car. I pulled the motor out and started to strip it. When I discovered it had do timing marks I was ready to give up and admit defeat to satan and start crying. I'm going to continue to proceed now that I have some grip on the concept. Thank you
My mk4 petrol has done 141,000 miles and is whisper quiet, uses no oil and gets me 36mpg. The duratec is a Japanese designed engine that's got enough torque to pull in a high gear at lower speed. The v6 duratec is not so robust with many suffering head gasket failures. I had 2 mk1 v6 mondeos that both went the same way. My first was a v6 S.i and the second was a ghia x. The problem was with the waterpump that had the plastic impeller which would detach from the shaft which resulted in overheating. And once those v6 engines cook then head gasket failure is virtually inevitable. Weak spots on that engine were cylinders 3 and 5 that would eventually 'vent', both mine made a ticking noise that sounded like an exhaust leak. Very few if any problems with the 2.0 engine and is a good balance between power and economy. Great video by the way!
Simon I have the same car. I am doubting the dual mass flywheel however, which I believe is fitted. How is yours? Otherwise perfect engine except valve cover stuck like Alan showed
@@marinusapeldoorn6631 I had the clutch and flywheel done last year. The petrol version is a lot kinder to the flywheel than diesels which produce more torque. The one I had fitted was a brand called LUK. I changed the auxillary belt, idle pulley and tensioner, they have a long service interval of 150k miles! I changed the valve cover gasket too as there was a bit of oil that had leaked into spark plug ports 2 and 4. Usual wear and tear items like discs and pads and tyres etc too. Still has the original exhaust and cat though! Probably the most comfortable car I've ever driven.
@@simonjohnhinton1938 I bought mine at 80000 miles at a Ford dealership. Immaculate car but shock absorbers totally worn and major oil leak from right hand drive gear box oil seal, which had been able to be ignored by 3 different Ford dealers who maintained the car during the first 9 years of its life. The selling Ford dealer cleaned up the gear box and hoped I didn' t notice. However I did and the right hand horizontal drive shaft part had to be replaced because of not being round enough or being too rough on the surface, causing the oil seal to be broken again every time it was replaced under guarantee. Car is fine now, I had the shocks replaced by Bilstein B6. Would you be willing for a little technical experiment which is not too complicated, just out of technical curiosity? Regards from Netherlands.
my poverty engine in my mk4 mondeo still going strong. 149k and still drives superb. 36.6 mpg combined and uses no oil between changes. the cam chains are pretty robust but its all about maintenance, I change the oil every 6k and the engine is super quiet on the move.
Since I bought a mondeo mk4 duratec 2.0 a month ago for my wife to drive around the city, this video will help me to take care of the timing chain and the camshafts for checking the valve clearance. I'm planing to install LPG as well then this has to be checked quite often. I've seen stretched timing chains in this engines especially with LPG. If you ever have chance to make a video about Valve Clearance Adjustment in Duratec engines, please make it. Most people don't know they have to check Valve Clearance from time to time especially in high mileage cars and quite often when using LPG. Thanks for all your videos.
I could not think of doing a job like that , that's why i change my oil at 5000 miles and drive it like i am running it in, but love watching you in your videos cheers Alan.
Quality work as ever. I'd agree that to do that with the engine still fitted would be almost impossible, especially trying to do the locking pins and crankshaft torque. FYI - The crankshaft pulley, the timing teeth works on the principal on one tooth missing. There was a full ring of time, equally spaced but where TDC is, there is one tooth missing. Some engines do one tooth missing the others do one singe tooth at TDC. I'm waiting on the next video where you pull apart the bottom end so that we can see some melted bearings :)
Absolutely brilliant videos, Alan. I have used them for many tasks with complete success. Havent tried a cambelt yet, but done the Mondeo V front hub bearing, LED lights and rear pads. Great!.
Man you just made things a lot better for what I have to do. I had the exhaust cam jump a couple teeth due to a mistake I made that I won't get into. The fact that the cam gears aren't keyed to the cams means I can just loosen the bolt on the exhaust cam, advance it back to the proper position with the intake cam, and then just retighten the bolt. Inspection camera showed no metal bits or damage to the pistons, whether I bent the exhaust valves is yet to be determined.
Granted your instructions were fantastic, I, and several friends, still couldn’t get the timing right after doing the head gaskets on my 02’ 2.3 ranger and I just sold the motor for $200. Time for a HO 5.0 or carb’d 302
I currently own a 2006 1.8 mk3 petrol, I've had it close to 5 years , been pretty reliable , I have replaced the chain and its parts etc as the tensioner gave up most likely down to poor servicing on the previous owner , although the car isn't all that powerful , its reliability makes up for this , everyone I talk to tell me that the engine itself doesn't last all that long due to the piston ring and manifold problem , it hasn't had either problem show and the car is currently on 188000 miles and is still quiet, cant fault the duratecs , thanks for posting mate
Hi Alan, i just want to thank you for thsi video. I'm about to put one of these engines from a breakers into my mk3 Mondeo Ghia X, currently burns about 1 litre of oil per week and i'm refreshing all the bottom end seals. This has just made my little project so much easier. Big thanks mate, think you've earned a sub.
Mines had a lot of maintenance over the years. (Touch wood) it's had a pretty hard life before I had it. (640000 miles). I then do a fair bit of standard maintenance on this engine and its now on 160000 miles. I've had my fun with it but it still sound solid. Despite the horror stories of the butter made bottom end on the ford fiesta St 150.
A lot of so called mechanics waffle on and don't actually explain things clearly or correctly however Alan does plus he adds a bit of humour to boot! Great video sir! Bingo!
Great video as usual Alan. At 25:30 you mention about being able to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts if the locking tool wasn't fitting into the slots in the other end of the camshafts but that while you could re- tighten the sprocket bolts, you couldn't torque them. All would not be lost though, if you had crowfoot wrenches available. :)
Thank You. Confirms what I've been told about timing chains (clearly my rattle is not from there) and advises me that this is clearly not to be attempted 'engine in', and is perhaps impossible (no clearance to remove bolts / casing, even after you've struggled to get at them)
You can use a normal bolt instead of the pin, just put it at top dead center and then put the bolt in till it is up against the crank, it can't turn anymore than your bolt and its got more surface area so you don't have to worry about bending the pin when you mess with your pulley for the crank
Hello mate I work as a fork truck engineer And the chain on the 2 litre ford petrol engine is very similar With multiple plates on a single link So basically if the same style on chain on a counter balance is similar in design typically the ford chain I'd say is damb near indestructible Any just thought I'd add a different perspective Love the videos I've got the 1.8 lynx engine(converted to chain....wet chain) And a mk3 duratorq 2.0 litre in a focus titanium x navigator Cheers mate
Thank you for sharing, maybe I'd be able to repeat your steps (but wouldn't dare in the end because too much money involved if I do anything wrong). Very interesting to see though. Wish you a nice day! :)
I wish the timing cover was that design on the Puma oil burner of the same era. The diesel one is a bit of pressed tin. Impossible to get off without distorting as it has a bigger contact surface area to the block by the aircon compressor. And a nightmare to try and get off in the car. I had the pawl fail in the tensioner on my 54 plate @ about 110k miles. I got it before it jumped the timing. At idle with lower oil pressure the chain slopped around! Did the guides etc at the same time. Something gone again inside it now at 220K but its got other issues with the fuel system now. Sounds like a guide gone.There was quite a bit of chain stretch on it. Apart from the early swirl flaps and coil packs, they were a great engine with few weak points so long as you maintained them. This was the era when ford had money invested in Mazda.
Hi I’m amazed as a trainee looking at that crankshaft pulley having no key way hopefully that bolt that holds the pulley is torqued up really high because as you say the oil pump sprocket on the crank shaft is held in place by the compression of that bolt meaning a lose bolt could with the engine running allow the oil pump to free wheel and stop functioning. I’m really surprised fords allowed that? Great vids alan.
This is a *MAZDA Engine Type L6*. I think from the time periode Mazda and Ford have a closer look what they have developed ... Ford only changed a few thinks (I think). As far as I know there is in the Mondeo MK3 commuity *in germany absolute no owner with a lose pulley*. Attention = the petrol 1,8 Li Duratec SCi directinjection engine is a lot different and have a lot identcal parts but the expensive parts + service ... ok I stop at thise point ... (see the intake camshaft and you understand and all around the directinjection AND search for internet forum).
I am a big fan of the Mk3 Mondeo, I've had 4 of them. On the 03 model you might want to look out for this problem between 80 and 120K miles. ruclips.net/video/amRXA22ofds/видео.html
Pretty sure this is identical to my 2L mk3 mx5 engine, it would be great if you could check that is the case and add it to the description! I can't find ANY videos nearly this thorough on youtube. We already destroyed 1 engine because we didn't know about the crankshaft positioning bolt -_- now the new engine that we didn't do anything with has started making horrible banging noises and the timing chain is so loose you can move it between the cam shafts a good 3-5cm!!! something is broken in there and i'm going to use some of the techniques i see in this video to help me this time!
Thanks for this upload great information. Wondering if you can help as I replaced head gasket done the timing but can't get the motor to start. Any ideas on what to look at
Nice video! I just bought my ford Mondeo 2006 Mk3 Station Wagon (BWY) 1.8L Benzine 125 PK. After 5 days I found out it’s used 1 liter oil on 100km 😕. Now I wanna rebuild the engine, but I have a few questions. 1: How can I check if my timing chain need to be replaced. 2: Do I need to replace my pistons and hone the cilinders (or can I only replace the rings on the pistons. 3: If I loose my piston rods do I need te replace the bearings if they look ok?. I hope you can help me out, and if you have other tips please let me know! Thank you so much! Friendly regards, Toby
done a few bmw chains and not impressed plus the oil pick up pipe in the sump is so narrow it sucks up all the broken chain guide plastic and starves the engine of oil
Glad you done a Duratec HE engine, funny how you made reference to the oil drinking, I have this problem in mt Fiesta ST150, its the same engine, aperently its a problem with the oil control piston rings, mines parked up till one day when I have the time and energy to attemt a rebuild.... or maybe I could find a mondeo and swap the higher spec head? Anyways Thanks
Good to know the timing chain is a strong part of these engines, mine has covered 129k miles and still on the original timing chain.😯⚠️😁 I doubt very much you could do this with the engine still in the car? Only issue I've had with this engine is the silly EGR valve getting stuck open! 😯⚠️
I believe that the crank harmonic balancer that carries the crank timing tabs and locks against the cam & oil pump chain sprocket should have a diamond washer that provides the locking action against the sprocket instead of a keyway system. That washer should be replaced along with the crank bolt as they are both single-use items. That diamond washer is shown in the top left corner (labeled 7) of the diagram at the beginning of the video.
My sealant of choice is Blue Hylomar... best sealant ever..!! I`m not surprised by the quality of the cam chain... this engine was a collaboration by Ford and Mazda. It looks like a variation of a HY-Vo chain that was used by Honda 4-Cyinder motorcycle engines of the `70`s (and possibly later) so, I`m guessing this was a Japanese invention now owned by Borg-Warner... can anyone add to this..??
We Will Rock You. I've got that as an earworm now after the parts bin thuds make the first three beats. Buddy you're a boy make a big noise! This is what lock down does to you lol.
Glad I found this video have the same engine but I lost compression sounds like a bunch of marbles need to remove the head helps me quite a bit with the timing do you have a video on head removal thanks for your help
Alan I followed your video to change timing chain and alls perfect , built engine back up and now when I run the engine it’s spitting oil from somewhere , any clue to where it’s losing the oil from, if the crank seal is not 100% flush and is inside the casing a tad would this cause the problem??
I have the 1.8 ltr mondeo petrol mk3 and it is not a potatoe and have never had a chain issue however i had a little leak from the camcover ,so i replaced the gaskets..... But on replacing 8mm bolts i broke 1..... I can not get one anywhere !!!!!would it be possible to buy one from you? STAY SAFE😄😄😄😄😄😄😄
i don't know where the ford potato line came from but its stuck with me🤪yeah sure you can have a bolt..call 01480 459991 and i will get your address and send it to you
That tensioner is the secret of such a long lasting timing chain. Not like the one fitted on vag engines that loose oil pressure with the engine off and detension the chain.
Yup. Relies on the oil pressure in the engine to keep the tensioner out. During cranking you don't have much pressure so relies on that pawl to keep the chain tension. Its why you should never bump start the puma engined transits as this is the bit that fails and causes the timing to jump
@@flo_neke Take minutes of your life and use RUclips videos. I think you will find some videos. If not in your country and language ... ... try german videos. VW is sold in high amounts in germany. Audi owners have more money in germany and the used car is at higher value = worth to spend more money for service. That is the reason why in germany you see a lot of VW and Audi at RUclips or Television in the garages. Try videos from well known german RUclips persons with a own garage = - Autodoktoren - Redhead Zylinderkopftechnik Sorry I dont know other RUclips channels in germany. The tensioner have no first opticl different ... ... but the guard rail move very wide ... The tensioner move to mutch and you see the beginning of a different zone comeing out of the tensioner. I can not rember the video and the look. I dont like VW and Audi today = only my personal opinion. But the cheap timing chain is the main reason and than the tensioner try to compensate ... cheaper, smaler for less build volume, quitet than think and bigger timing chains (the very very very old double chains from Mercedes-Benz diesel W123 last 500.000 to 1.ooo.ooo km) I dont like a car brands that try to sell cars because the engine have a very very ... ... better MPG with light and small parts plus high technology everywhere... These VAG engines use a lot of technology and these additional parts can make additional problems. Ok japanese, korean, french, ... cars are not realy better. All manufactureres have there typical problems. More advanced technology = more problems and expensiver problem = never ever very very old cars anymore.
Hey there Alan, really enjoy your entertaining approach to vids. I'm looking at a 2.3L Duratec with a leaking front crank seal. I believe this is the same 2.3L in the pre-skyactiv Mazda6's?? In any case, I'm just trying to be certain as to whether I can remove the crank pulley to get to the seal without having to do all the re-timing palava ... ie is the timing sprocket loose behind the pulley or fixed to the crank timing chain sprocket so it can't move once pulley is removed. Thanks;-)
You got me laughing Alan with your entrance 😄, anyway good informative video , I enjoy learning about engines , specially the duratech engines as I have a 125 duratech fiesta , but I like learning about the other ford engines , bye for now , by the way , I like seeing you basket the alternator , from Tony from bedfordshire 👍😊
Hi Alan, is the ford spec'd 913c/d oil essential for engine longegity? Recently bought a second hand 2013 Focus TDCI here in Taiwan, which I believe has the same engine. The ford spec w913c oil isnt easily found here, and dealer serviced with Motul 8100 x clean 5w30 (not the ford spec). Your videos are superb!
I don't know why you would do this job when the cost of the labour will be more than a Mk3 Mondeo is worth. However, I watched because I love mechanical engineering and this is a very good video. I am on my 4th Mk3 and the least I got out of one was 120K miles when it had a catastrophic engine failure. The rest all got sold at 160 to 180K because the accumulation of small repairs was approaching the worth of the car. BTW, I though the Duratec HE was a Mazda engine. I might be wrong.
Mazda L6 engine. You are right = Duratec HE 1,8 li and 2,0 li and 1,8 li SCI petrol engine is a construction from Mazda. Ford and Mazda have a corporation for a few years and they both have a close look what each one devoloped before. Better to use a good existing engine and dont spend years and money for a own development. Plus you can use the production tools and cast thinks from Mazda or the japanese company produce the cast tools for Ford to. Cheaper when you order more production tools.
Questions, questions and questions? when you insert the pin in the rear of the block, what is the length of the pin? I bought the kit on amazon for the timing belt, one of pins is 2 1/4 long in length. the other is 3 inch. - / +
Hi Allan, its great to see your videos and those funny moments (Brit humor :D ) and because i have been searching in your channel about a 2.0D for these mk3 engines here am i asking for help. I see several guys posting a lot of knowledge but it feels awesome to see the simplicity you tackle several problems. I tried to send you pm using yt but isnt available because im trying to learn how to fix my own mk3 2.0d and maybe you can help me by giving me some leads or tip top. my glow-plugs got stacked and the only way to remove them is to get out the engine or disassemble it from the top (engine bay) but before i even try i would like to ask you for advice and the torque values to tight back these elements. thanks in advance. cheers from poland
Alan help! Mondeo mk3 2006 130 hp tdci. Is there easy way the check timing chain and timing? Starting sound is not right to my ears. Car not run at all. Fuel pressure about 400 bar when starting so it good.
Timing chains on ST250's sound like they are gonna break or come off altogether when the engine is hot, mix the direct injection ticking, HPFP Ticking, DMF flap on tickover and the timing chain noise.
The ST250 is a V6 engine. Normal not many noise. But older engines ... ... noise = engine is ceying for service immediatily. Even the 4 cyl Duratec HE (or SCI) engine is very quite. Noise means wear and very very soon a service. Ignore these noise and you will pay a lot more. Mk3 is older than 26 years = often economic desaster to repair these old engine. Buy a other MK3 but never ever spnd a lot of money. Ok , when the chasis is in good shape and the engine is well serviced since years ...
Thx, this is my 3rd mondeo sinds 2005. Love these cars and I maintanace and repair it myself. Easy to acces and not much electronics. Never had an electronix failure. Netherlands!!!
Ik heb ook een mondeo uit 2005 waar in Nederland zit je? Heb je interesse in een betalende klant ter reparatie?
@@blackdynamite9940 Ik woon in Capelle a/d IJssel. Wat is het probleem?
Mijn email is brahmanrob@gmail.com. Ik hoor het wel.
@@blackdynamite9940 Heb al eerder een bericht gestuurd, maar geen reaktie. Ik woon in Capelle aan den IJssel. Ik wil je best helpen met je auto. Ik hoor het wel. Gr Rob.
@@robbeguine612 hi dank voor je reactie ik heb je zojuist een mailtje gestuurd 😉
as a ford guy , this channel is pure gold ! NEVER STOP please !
thanks
@@alan4x i did my chain replacement like you . but now, i have a sound like turbo when i rev the engine .... any idea? ( like a turbo whistle ) . every hose is on place, no dtc....
There's really a lot of knowledge involved in this kind of work. It's nice that you are showing it to people.
cheers mikofi
😀
@@abderrahimhaddanitankioupr9367 it was gold!
OMG Thank you for making this video. Someone ripped me off when I bought a LS foucs and I decided to do a full rebuild instead of wasting money and trashing the car. I pulled the motor out and started to strip it. When I discovered it had do timing marks I was ready to give up and admit defeat to satan and start crying. I'm going to continue to proceed now that I have some grip on the concept. Thank you
your welcome david
My mk4 petrol has done 141,000 miles and is whisper quiet, uses no oil and gets me 36mpg. The duratec is a Japanese designed engine that's got enough torque to pull in a high gear at lower speed. The v6 duratec is not so robust with many suffering head gasket failures. I had 2 mk1 v6 mondeos that both went the same way. My first was a v6 S.i and the second was a ghia x. The problem was with the waterpump that had the plastic impeller which would detach from the shaft which resulted in overheating. And once those v6 engines cook then head gasket failure is virtually inevitable. Weak spots on that engine were cylinders 3 and 5 that would eventually 'vent', both mine made a ticking noise that sounded like an exhaust leak. Very few if any problems with the 2.0 engine and is a good balance between power and economy. Great video by the way!
Simon I have the same car. I am doubting the dual mass flywheel however, which I believe is fitted. How is yours? Otherwise perfect engine except valve cover stuck like Alan showed
thanks simon, nice information
@@marinusapeldoorn6631 I had the clutch and flywheel done last year. The petrol version is a lot kinder to the flywheel than diesels which produce more torque. The one I had fitted was a brand called LUK. I changed the auxillary belt, idle pulley and tensioner, they have a long service interval of 150k miles! I changed the valve cover gasket too as there was a bit of oil that had leaked into spark plug ports 2 and 4. Usual wear and tear items like discs and pads and tyres etc too. Still has the original exhaust and cat though! Probably the most comfortable car I've ever driven.
@@simonjohnhinton1938 I bought mine at 80000 miles at a Ford dealership. Immaculate car but shock absorbers totally worn and major oil leak from right hand drive gear box oil seal, which had been able to be ignored by 3 different Ford dealers who maintained the car during the first 9 years of its life. The selling Ford dealer cleaned up the gear box and hoped I didn' t notice. However I did and the right hand horizontal drive shaft part had to be replaced because of not being round enough or being too rough on the surface, causing the oil seal to be broken again every time it was replaced under guarantee. Car is fine now, I had the shocks replaced by Bilstein B6. Would you be willing for a little technical experiment which is not too complicated, just out of technical curiosity? Regards from Netherlands.
my poverty engine in my mk4 mondeo still going strong. 149k and still drives superb. 36.6 mpg combined and uses no oil between changes. the cam chains are pretty robust but its all about maintenance, I change the oil every 6k and the engine is super quiet on the move.
I'm no mechanic but really love your vids mate, you know what you're doing and seem to have a lot of fun at work - good for you
thanks romac😊
Nice one mate thanks. Was scratching my head but the crankshaft sprocket floating has explained the mystery!!
Since I bought a mondeo mk4 duratec 2.0 a month ago for my wife to drive around the city, this video will help me to take care of the timing chain and the camshafts for checking the valve clearance. I'm planing to install LPG as well then this has to be checked quite often. I've seen stretched timing chains in this engines especially with LPG. If you ever have chance to make a video about Valve Clearance Adjustment in Duratec engines, please make it. Most people don't know they have to check Valve Clearance from time to time especially in high mileage cars and quite often when using LPG. Thanks for all your videos.
I could not think of doing a job like that , that's why i change my oil at 5000 miles and drive it like i am running it in, but love watching you in your videos cheers Alan.
thanks charles..🤪
Quality work as ever.
I'd agree that to do that with the engine still fitted would be almost impossible, especially trying to do the locking pins and crankshaft torque.
FYI - The crankshaft pulley, the timing teeth works on the principal on one tooth missing. There was a full ring of time, equally spaced but where TDC is, there is one tooth missing. Some engines do one tooth missing the others do one singe tooth at TDC.
I'm waiting on the next video where you pull apart the bottom end so that we can see some melted bearings :)
right oh lol..i will when in get time🤪
Absolutely brilliant videos, Alan. I have used them for many tasks with complete success. Havent tried a cambelt yet, but done the Mondeo V front hub bearing, LED lights and rear pads. Great!.
thats fantastic, thanks smarty, funny thing is sometimes i have to watch my own videos when i forget to do things lol
Man you just made things a lot better for what I have to do. I had the exhaust cam jump a couple teeth due to a mistake I made that I won't get into. The fact that the cam gears aren't keyed to the cams means I can just loosen the bolt on the exhaust cam, advance it back to the proper position with the intake cam, and then just retighten the bolt.
Inspection camera showed no metal bits or damage to the pistons, whether I bent the exhaust valves is yet to be determined.
hope you get it sorted
Granted your instructions were fantastic, I, and several friends, still couldn’t get the timing right after doing the head gaskets on my 02’ 2.3 ranger and I just sold the motor for $200.
Time for a HO 5.0 or carb’d 302
I currently own a 2006 1.8 mk3 petrol, I've had it close to 5 years , been pretty reliable , I have replaced the chain and its parts etc as the tensioner gave up most likely down to poor servicing on the previous owner , although the car isn't all that powerful , its reliability makes up for this , everyone I talk to tell me that the engine itself doesn't last all that long due to the piston ring and manifold problem , it hasn't had either problem show and the car is currently on 188000 miles and is still quiet, cant fault the duratecs , thanks for posting mate
My poverty engine just burned 2 valves at 170k, I never touched the engine part from service - great video thank you
It’s an incredible simple chain system compared to newer engines
Hi Alan, i just want to thank you for thsi video. I'm about to put one of these engines from a breakers into my mk3 Mondeo Ghia X, currently burns about 1 litre of oil per week and i'm refreshing all the bottom end seals. This has just made my little project so much easier. Big thanks mate, think you've earned a sub.
thanks tam..glad it helped
Mines had a lot of maintenance over the years. (Touch wood) it's had a pretty hard life before I had it. (640000 miles). I then do a fair bit of standard maintenance on this engine and its now on 160000 miles. I've had my fun with it but it still sound solid. Despite the horror stories of the butter made bottom end on the ford fiesta St 150.
I do this for a living yet I find myself watching this?
Great info Al as usual
Your camera work is excellent
More Monica please
Eyes off, she's mine
cheers dragster 46😊
Thanks for sparing me the mind-bending music.
lmao😁
Great job. These engines are nicely built for the technician bit like the 1.8tdci.
A lot of so called mechanics waffle on and don't actually explain things clearly or correctly however Alan does plus he adds a bit of humour to boot! Great video sir! Bingo!
thank you E Rashio😁
Great job a lot of knowledge. Now I know why people said this timing was hard without the right tools.🤔👍
Thanks 👍
Great video as usual Alan.
At 25:30 you mention about being able to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts if the locking tool wasn't fitting into the slots in the other end of the camshafts but that while you could re- tighten the sprocket bolts, you couldn't torque them. All would not be lost though, if you had crowfoot wrenches available. :)
thanks for that comment rommel..that is an excellent way🙃
Love the multilink chain - looks so solid and stable in comparison to W203 or BMW as you've said ⛓️ thank you for showing!
Thank You for Your contribution to society of ford. Bet You have helped a lot of people with this video.
thanks kon😊
Great video, would love to see how the oil pump chain is changed as well thou, as I would like to change mine while I have it all apart 🤔👍
Thank You. Confirms what I've been told about timing chains (clearly my rattle is not from there) and advises me that this is clearly not to be attempted 'engine in', and is perhaps impossible (no clearance to remove bolts / casing, even after you've struggled to get at them)
This budget Bruce Willis knows his shit.
VAG and BMW could learn a thing or two from Ford on how to design a good timing chain set up, tell Monica I still love her.
vincent o'donnell you mean mazda, it’s a mazda engine
@@WOER-jt3hv Thanks for that, so the Japanese win again.
So much for German engineering quality
@@WOER-jt3hv Isn't this a PSA engine?
i didn't know it was a mazda engine till after i made this vid...i do now🤪
this guy's great. makes it look easy and very easy to follow. thanks mate.
I'm in a 2001 Mondeo 1.8 Duratec petrol. 113K miles and no issues thus far. Never broken down. Been a great car. Garaged every night and very clean.
they are good cars and engines
You can use a normal bolt instead of the pin, just put it at top dead center and then put the bolt in till it is up against the crank, it can't turn anymore than your bolt and its got more surface area so you don't have to worry about bending the pin when you mess with your pulley for the crank
Right in time! Thank You Alan :) hearty greetings from Warsaw
Hello mate I work as a fork truck engineer
And the chain on the 2 litre ford petrol engine is very similar
With multiple plates on a single link
So basically if the same style on chain on a counter balance is similar in design typically the ford chain I'd say is damb near indestructible
Any just thought I'd add a different perspective
Love the videos
I've got the 1.8 lynx engine(converted to chain....wet chain)
And a mk3 duratorq 2.0 litre in a focus titanium x navigator
Cheers mate
Thank you for sharing, maybe I'd be able to repeat your steps (but wouldn't dare in the end because too much money involved if I do anything wrong). Very interesting to see though. Wish you a nice day! :)
i have never had one of those chains fail so hopefully you never will need to do one😁
I wish the timing cover was that design on the Puma oil burner of the same era. The diesel one is a bit of pressed tin. Impossible to get off without distorting as it has a bigger contact surface area to the block by the aircon compressor. And a nightmare to try and get off in the car. I had the pawl fail in the tensioner on my 54 plate @ about 110k miles. I got it before it jumped the timing. At idle with lower oil pressure the chain slopped around! Did the guides etc at the same time. Something gone again inside it now at 220K but its got other issues with the fuel system now. Sounds like a guide gone.There was quite a bit of chain stretch on it. Apart from the early swirl flaps and coil packs, they were a great engine with few weak points so long as you maintained them. This was the era when ford had money invested in Mazda.
Hi I’m amazed as a trainee looking at that crankshaft pulley having no key way hopefully that bolt that holds the pulley is torqued up really high because as you say the oil pump sprocket on the crank shaft is held in place by the compression of that bolt meaning a lose bolt could with the engine running allow the oil pump to free wheel and stop functioning. I’m really surprised fords allowed that?
Great vids alan.
This is a *MAZDA Engine Type L6*.
I think from the time periode Mazda and Ford have a closer look what they have developed ...
Ford only changed a few thinks (I think).
As far as I know there is in the Mondeo MK3 commuity *in germany absolute no owner with a lose pulley*.
Attention = the petrol 1,8 Li Duratec SCi directinjection engine is a lot different and have a lot identcal parts but the expensive parts + service ... ok I stop at thise point ...
(see the intake camshaft and you understand and all around the directinjection AND search for internet forum).
Just brought a 03 reg 2.0 x only 50k on the clock great news that these are really reliable 👍
I am a big fan of the Mk3 Mondeo, I've had 4 of them. On the 03 model you might want to look out for this problem between 80 and 120K miles. ruclips.net/video/amRXA22ofds/видео.html
Great clear camera work. You know the game, like you said, not a great job in the car!
Nice job very interesting keep them coming mate 👍👍👍
cheers anthony
Pretty sure this is identical to my 2L mk3 mx5 engine, it would be great if you could check that is the case and add it to the description!
I can't find ANY videos nearly this thorough on youtube.
We already destroyed 1 engine because we didn't know about the crankshaft positioning bolt -_- now the new engine that we didn't do anything with has started making horrible banging noises and the timing chain is so loose you can move it between the cam shafts a good 3-5cm!!! something is broken in there and i'm going to use some of the techniques i see in this video to help me this time!
Brilliant straight forward, no shit music, excellent description, helped me understand what I'm up against when I do mine 🤯
British is the best on the world to explain techinacly stuff !!
Best video, I’ve found on this subject,
Glad it was helpful
Hi Alan. Thanks for this very good video. I have seen it already 3 times. Best greetings from Germany. Klaus
Great video, thanks for this,
Has a 2.0L 2013 Diesel Titanium X 140TDCi have a Chain or belt timing
Thanks for this upload great information. Wondering if you can help as I replaced head gasket done the timing but can't get the motor to start. Any ideas on what to look at
Nice video! I just bought my ford Mondeo 2006 Mk3 Station Wagon (BWY) 1.8L Benzine 125 PK. After 5 days I found out it’s used 1 liter oil on 100km 😕. Now I wanna rebuild the engine, but I have a few questions. 1: How can I check if my timing chain need to be replaced. 2: Do I need to replace my pistons and hone the cilinders (or can I only replace the rings on the pistons. 3: If I loose my piston rods do I need te replace the bearings if they look ok?. I hope you can help me out, and if you have other tips please let me know! Thank you so much! Friendly regards, Toby
Great video what you said at 6:10 I couldn’t have said it better myself. Just had to do a chain on an N47 Bmw engine 🤦🏽♂️
done a few bmw chains and not impressed plus the oil pick up pipe in the sump is so narrow it sucks up all the broken chain guide plastic and starves the engine of oil
You are great mechanic and narrator!
Nice job, that's very funny and interesting to watch (:
@ 4:19 you actually broke a piece off... I have watched this video several times... and I just now realized this.!! Great video fyi!
Didn’t realise that these engines where so good.
Thx man for all hard work you put in.
Glad you done a Duratec HE engine, funny how you made reference to the oil drinking, I have this problem in mt Fiesta ST150, its the same engine, aperently its a problem with the oil control piston rings, mines parked up till one day when I have the time and energy to attemt a rebuild.... or maybe I could find a mondeo and swap the higher spec head? Anyways Thanks
Good to know the timing chain is a strong part of these engines, mine has covered 129k miles and still on the original timing chain.😯⚠️😁
I doubt very much you could do this with the engine still in the car?
Only issue I've had with this engine is the silly EGR valve getting stuck open! 😯⚠️
Hocam keşke alt yazı açık olsaydı. Çok ihtiyacım vardı bu videoya.. Selamlar.. 🇹🇷🇹🇷
Nice one.
I don’t suppose you have a video on the 2 litre DOHC SIERRA Engine?
Thank you.
unfortunately not...i wish i did..that would have been a good one
My old man had a early 1.8 mk3, ate it’s piston rings at 85k.
Don’t think later ones suffer that problem.
most of engine failures we get are from overheating
I believe that the crank harmonic balancer that carries the crank timing tabs and locks against the cam & oil pump chain sprocket should have a diamond washer that provides the locking action against the sprocket instead of a keyway system. That washer should be replaced along with the crank bolt as they are both single-use items. That diamond washer is shown in the top left corner (labeled 7) of the diagram at the beginning of the video.
Those non-keyed pulleys always seem pretty sketchy on the petrol engines. Great stuff as always
yeah sketchy is the word lol...not had one come loose yet🤪
@@alan4x they do seem to remain tight, but catches people out that just pop off the crank pulley to get to the water pump 😂
Great educational and informative video 👌👍👏👏
Nice video my friend...cheers from Portugal and stay safe
cheers ricardo, stay safe yourself
Allen
You are so cool man
Brilliant video again
Phil in stoke
Lockdown Alan to the rescue..........very good engine for tuners they were even supercharged in some Fiesta ST150.
cheers kazuyadog
Really found this video super helpful...i am just wondering...what is the actual length of that special screw tool if i wanted to make one?
Great video might have to do this on my fiesta st150 👍
My sealant of choice is Blue Hylomar... best sealant ever..!! I`m not surprised by the quality of the cam chain... this engine was a collaboration by Ford and Mazda. It looks like a variation of a HY-Vo chain that was used by Honda 4-Cyinder motorcycle engines of the `70`s (and possibly later) so, I`m guessing this was a Japanese invention now owned by Borg-Warner... can anyone add to this..??
Awesome video. It was informative and very entertaining. Thanks.
Lovly video from great Man. Thank you
cheers bartbike😊
You are a bloody genius dude
thanks marinus 🤪
Your accent is addressing my ancestors 😂 great channel🤙🏻
We Will Rock You. I've got that as an earworm now after the parts bin thuds make the first three beats. Buddy you're a boy make a big noise! This is what lock down does to you lol.
lol🤪
That's 100% useful well explained video.. thanks a lot mate.
Glad I found this video have the same engine but I lost compression sounds like a bunch of marbles need to remove the head helps me quite a bit with the timing do you have a video on head removal thanks for your help
Alan I followed your video to change timing chain and alls perfect , built engine back up and now when I run the engine it’s spitting oil from somewhere , any clue to where it’s losing the oil from, if the crank seal is not 100% flush and is inside the casing a tad would this cause the problem??
I have the 1.8 ltr mondeo petrol mk3 and it is not a potatoe and have never had a chain issue however i had a little leak from the camcover ,so i replaced the gaskets..... But on replacing 8mm bolts i broke 1..... I can not get one anywhere !!!!!would it be possible to buy one from you? STAY SAFE😄😄😄😄😄😄😄
i don't know where the ford potato line came from but its stuck with me🤪yeah sure you can have a bolt..call 01480 459991 and i will get your address and send it to you
@@alan4x your a ledgend i,ll give you a call😄😄😄😄
Great video, well explained. 😉👍
Nice.
I have no words other than this
Very good video. Is this the same engine and procedure as an MX 5 mk3 ?
I dont know. It is a Mazda L6 engine and Ford modifyed only some parts around.
Generall it is a Mazda constuction.
That tensioner is the secret of such a long lasting timing chain. Not like the one fitted on vag engines that loose oil pressure with the engine off and detension the chain.
Ironically its the pawl that failed on mine in the diesel variant...
good point, that tensioner cant retract
I will love to see this type of tensioner in vw and audi engines.
Yup. Relies on the oil pressure in the engine to keep the tensioner out. During cranking you don't have much pressure so relies on that pawl to keep the chain tension. Its why you should never bump start the puma engined transits as this is the bit that fails and causes the timing to jump
@@flo_neke Take minutes of your life and use RUclips videos.
I think you will find some videos.
If not in your country and language ...
... try german videos.
VW is sold in high amounts in germany.
Audi owners have more money in germany and the used car is at higher value = worth to spend more money for service.
That is the reason why in germany you see a lot of VW and Audi at RUclips or Television in the garages.
Try videos from well known german RUclips persons with a own garage =
- Autodoktoren
- Redhead Zylinderkopftechnik
Sorry I dont know other RUclips channels in germany.
The tensioner have no first opticl different ...
... but the guard rail move very wide ...
The tensioner move to mutch and you see the beginning of a different zone comeing out of the tensioner.
I can not rember the video and the look.
I dont like VW and Audi today = only my personal opinion.
But the cheap timing chain is the main reason and than the tensioner try to compensate ...
cheaper, smaler for less build volume, quitet than think and bigger timing chains
(the very very very old double chains from Mercedes-Benz diesel W123 last 500.000 to 1.ooo.ooo km)
I dont like a car brands that try to sell cars because the engine have a very very ...
... better MPG with light and small parts plus high technology everywhere...
These VAG engines use a lot of technology and these additional parts can make additional problems.
Ok japanese, korean, french, ... cars are not realy better.
All manufactureres have there typical problems.
More advanced technology = more problems and expensiver problem = never ever very very old cars anymore.
Hey there Alan, really enjoy your entertaining approach to vids. I'm looking at a 2.3L Duratec with a leaking front crank seal. I believe this is the same 2.3L in the pre-skyactiv Mazda6's?? In any case, I'm just trying to be certain as to whether I can remove the crank pulley to get to the seal without having to do all the re-timing palava ... ie is the timing sprocket loose behind the pulley or fixed to the crank timing chain sprocket so it can't move once pulley is removed. Thanks;-)
You got me laughing Alan with your entrance 😄, anyway good informative video , I enjoy learning about engines , specially the duratech engines as I have a 125 duratech fiesta , but I like learning about the other ford engines , bye for now , by the way , I like seeing you basket the alternator , from Tony from bedfordshire 👍😊
lol, thanks tony
So what is the fundamental problem with the Duratec Engine that turns them into Oil Burners
and can it be avoided ?
Top quality video Alan
cheers william
Why didn’t you use one of the tools to hold the harmonic balancer from spinning?
Will the two bolts plus the alignment tool hold everything?
Hi Alan, is the ford spec'd 913c/d oil essential for engine longegity? Recently bought a second hand 2013 Focus TDCI here in Taiwan, which I believe has the same engine. The ford spec w913c oil isnt easily found here, and dealer serviced with Motul 8100 x clean 5w30 (not the ford spec).
Your videos are superb!
Someone Give this lad his own TV show .
This was really helpful
😁
I don't know why you would do this job when the cost of the labour will be more than a Mk3 Mondeo is worth. However, I watched because I love mechanical engineering and this is a very good video. I am on my 4th Mk3 and the least I got out of one was 120K miles when it had a catastrophic engine failure. The rest all got sold at 160 to 180K because the accumulation of small repairs was approaching the worth of the car. BTW, I though the Duratec HE was a Mazda engine. I might be wrong.
Mazda L6 engine.
You are right = Duratec HE 1,8 li and 2,0 li and 1,8 li SCI petrol engine
is a construction from Mazda.
Ford and Mazda have a corporation for a few years and they both have a close look what each one devoloped before.
Better to use a good existing engine and dont spend years and money for a own development.
Plus you can use the production tools and cast thinks from Mazda or the japanese company produce the cast tools for Ford to.
Cheaper when you order more production tools.
The intake manifold of that engine has 2 vaccum actuators. One is for the swirl flaps. What is the second one for?
Questions, questions and questions? when you insert the pin in the rear of the block, what is the length of the pin? I bought the kit on amazon for the timing belt, one of pins is 2 1/4 long in length. the other is 3 inch. - / +
The older zetec 1.8 and 2.0 were better what's your opinion please
Hi Allan, its great to see your videos and those funny moments (Brit humor :D ) and because i have been searching in your channel about a 2.0D for these mk3 engines here am i asking for help. I see several guys posting a lot of knowledge but it feels awesome to see the simplicity you tackle several problems. I tried to send you pm using yt but isnt available because im trying to learn how to fix my own mk3 2.0d and maybe you can help me by giving me some leads or tip top. my glow-plugs got stacked and the only way to remove them is to get out the engine or disassemble it from the top (engine bay) but before i even try i would like to ask you for advice and the torque values to tight back these elements. thanks in advance. cheers from poland
Alan help! Mondeo mk3 2006 130 hp tdci. Is there easy way the check timing chain and timing? Starting sound is not right to my ears. Car not run at all. Fuel pressure about 400 bar when starting so it good.
It was what I think. Timing chain’s tensioner was dead and other camshaft was jump of timing
no, not an easy way to check it and to get to it is an ordeal as well
Is this the same engine as the fiesta st 150 as I’m about to rebuild mine but struggling to find any good videos that go into detail like yours
Same engine yes it is, I’m having a problem with my st150 think it’s the cam chain that’s why I’m here 😂
Timing chains on ST250's sound like they are gonna break or come off altogether when the engine is hot, mix the direct injection ticking, HPFP Ticking, DMF flap on tickover and the timing chain noise.
🤪
The ST250 is a V6 engine.
Normal not many noise.
But older engines ...
... noise = engine is ceying for service immediatily.
Even the 4 cyl Duratec HE (or SCI) engine is very quite.
Noise means wear and very very soon a service.
Ignore these noise and you will pay a lot more.
Mk3 is older than 26 years = often economic desaster to repair these old engine. Buy a other MK3 but never ever spnd a lot of money.
Ok , when the chasis is in good shape and the engine is well serviced since years ...
Great video. This is the only video on you tube which explains this. THANKS🎉😂