The project pontoon boat I bought this fall has this exact replacement console. Fortunately the previous owner didn’t install anything in it except for the steering. I’ve brought it into the house to add options, like you said, much easier when it’s not in the boat. I put my Amazon switch/outlet panel in the vertical spot to keep the angled area free for a stereo and depth finder or whatever the next owner will want to install.
Tom want to thank you for your refurbishing tutorials, in the middle of refurbing a 26ft 15 year old, and this is helping a lot. Decking wood choices seemed to be the biggest priority to me, but we stripped her all the way down with a lot of your advice.
That’s so great to hear! We started the channel to teach as many people as much as possible. There’ll always be DIY folks who tackle their pontoons so why not have a resource for them?!? I’ve only ever used the CCA marine grade treated plywood from Pontoon Stuff. We have our plywood water test going right now and the non treated is already showing mold on the surface (spoiler). Hope our videos help you as the boat comes back together too!
@@TBeshears They’ll ship it to your house from PontoonStuff.com and it’s available in 4’x8’ and 4’x8.5’ sheets. Enter TOMSTOONS at checkout as a discount code to save 5%. It’s not cheap so the discount helps!! Spending the money once to do it right is worth it!
I'm remodeling my pontoon boat with the works, I bought a 8 switch panel, brand new interior seats, already installed a bamboo woven floor, purchased new stereo with four speakers, subwoofer,led underglow pontoon light's, interior led lights, led front lights, horn, a put in a third pontoon, new 4 blade prop, and a propane fireplace inside the front table, seats from deck mate, however I'm having trouble figuring out how to wire everything to the switches so that I can turn everything I just mentioned separately, as well as live well, bilge pump, and heater... I know it's a lot, I custom painted and re tined the railings and custom binami, mirrored out the pontoons... The wiring is just frustrating me, I have two batteries is there a way to have one designated to my accessories and one just for the motor, and yeah fish finder a well
You've got a ton of work done and a ton of work ahead of you it sounds like! Electrical is the one thing that slows people down or often worries or frustrate them. I always install the wiring harness from Pontoon Stuff. Here's a video about that: ruclips.net/video/sOxnD6fRG1w/видео.html The wiring harness has leads to power all of your nav lights, bilge pump/livewell, docking lights, and all the other accessories that can be powered from your 12V system. Once those are spliced into the harness all you have to do is plug it into the switch panel (assuming you bought the panel from Pontoon Stuff too, otherwise you'd have to splice it in like we've shown on other videos using Amazon Switch Panels). You could designate one battery to starting and one to your accessories, but your accessory battery would not get charged ever from the motor so you'd need a separate charging system for it (solar or plug in). I'd consider a beefy battery system for your accessories especially if you're running a subwoofer (with or without an amp). I'd go with two deep cycle batteries in parallel to prolong the time you can run your accessories. I would go with a battery switch which will allow you to push charge to all batteries and also be able to isolate which batteries are being used at certain times. This video breaks down a four position battery switch: ruclips.net/video/Ue81uljYhvw/видео.html
You mean Nash-Vegas?? We will be watching the Vols take on Alabama tomorrow!! Thanks for watching our videos and the kind words. We work hard, play hard, and get to do something we love working on boats!
Thx for all the info. So glad I could ur channel before I hit started. I’m have a hard time finding my model number anywhere on line so I can get specifics on my barge… guess I don’t need it but was hoping I’d be able to find it on crest site but guess they don’t go back to 1996.
You might be able to call or email Crest directly to learn more, but without the model it might be challenging. However, if you get the Hull ID number they might have record of it. The Hull ID is usually 12 digits and can be found on the starboard side in the rear on a plate riveted to the top of the toon, or sometimes etched in.
@@tomspontoonsI ordered and received this same console this week. I’m a lil concerned that the face where everything mounts like u did here is convex and doesn’t look like the panel and such will pull down flat. I hope is will because I’m sure once I cut it there will be nothing I can do about it. Thx
@@Formerlywarmer I’ve not had a problem with anything not mounting flat. I have added screws on some of the larger panels I’ve install on them, to help secure it down snug.
Hey Tom, thanks for this video. I’m at this very stage with templates taped to the consul, 3” tach top right, 3” rpm top left and 2” trim dead center through the steering wheel. Glove box arrived today, impeccable timing and like you said, it fit perfectly in that flat spot beneath the wheel. But now here’s my dilemma…I wanted to place my 6 gang switch with usb charger, 12 volt charger and volt meter beneath the tach. And my radio, 7”x2” hole, beneath the rpm gauge. But on these smaller consuls the darn mounting surface is curved! So the trim for the radio and the switch don’t sit flush…unless you reach for the impact and give her some dugga, duggas. So now I’m having to mount the radio on the side and the switch panel below and beside the glove box. Neither are the handiest location but now a least provide a flat surface to mount. So just curious if you knew why Pontoonstuff made these 😂consuls with the curved panel instead of it being flat, which would’ve made more sense. Anyways my friend, thanks again for your help and advice. Certainly makes it easier! 👍🏻
I've dealt with the curved surface for the last few years in a number of ways. It's pretty common for me to add screws to some of the switch panels on that surface to help pull it down nice and snug, and if there's still a gap anywhere a little clear silicone helps seal things up. No idea why they made it curved other than style and aesthetics. I have done stereos on the side of it before when needed and it turns out pretty well and quite practical...if the captain isn't playing the music then it makes it easy for someone else to access the stereo without crowding over the helm. I do like my switch panel up on the dash though versus down on the flat spot.
Hi Tom, your videos are the best! I can't tell you how helpful they have been as we muddle our way through our pontoon remodel, wished I had discovered your channel before we put the new decking on. I'm wondering if you have any suggestions or another console video coming out on the new Deckmate Deluxe Large Pontoon Console ? We went with that one as the other large console was too wide for our area. We were surprised to see that despite there being a side door and ample access given by removable dashboard section that there is also a large (too large) cut out on the right side, with no way to close that up. Anyways, we are trying to figure out best configuration of guages and the binnacle for it, but seems like we will need to put the binnacle on the side storage unit.
Thanks so much for watching my channel. I’m glad it’s been helpful for you! I will be installing some of those consoles for the first time coming up so I will definitely make a video for installation!!
When you made cut-outs for steerage, switch panel, ... you mentioned your tool was a dremel. My dremel spins and cuts with a mini circular saw blade. It made a mess of the steerage cut-out. Fortunately the hole is covered up by steering wheel base. I hesitate to cut-out the switch panel with my dremel. Yours looked more like a mini sawzall / reciprocating saw. Can you share and more details about the tool? Thanks!!
I use a Dremel 4000 series Rotary Tool with a cutting bit. I freehand cut everything, but there is a circle tool if needed. I’ve had mine a year and it’s starting to lose its power…but that’s fine for 40+ boats of cutting consoles, speaker holes, and so much more. Lastly, DEFINITELY get the corded option!!! Tool: www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-4000-Series-1-6-Amp-Variable-Speed-Corded-Rotary-Tool-Kit-with-34-Accessories-4-Attachments-and-Carrying-Case-4000-4-34/205183198 Bit: www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-8-in-Rotary-Tool-Multi-Purpose-Cutting-Bit-for-Wood-Plastic-Fiberglass-Drywall-Aluminum-and-Vinyl-Siding-561/202263174
With a small outboard there was no need for hydraulic steering. So to keep the cost effectiveness we can swap the cable to match the new layout of the boat a lot quicker/easier/cheaper. Trust me, I love hydraulic steering, but it would have made this extremely expensive and unnecessary on this HP motor. Great question!!
Tom, this has been really educational with all your videos, question on a regular console model like in your video can you add the throttle to that type of console or is there not enough room for it with the steering etc underneath? wondering if we need to return the console or not now...
I just posted a video with an aftermarket binnacle control box (topside mount). There are a few that won’t work with this console. I prefer to do a side mount box on the railing for this smaller console, and go with the large helm for a binnacle control. I’ve made it work several times for binnacle controls including Mercury and Honda controls.
I've honestly never seen a stereo installed in the side of a console, at least not from the factory. Either way, being on the face of the console allows the captain to turn the music up, down, or off in the case of an event where it's necessary for safety. With the BlueTooth stereos these days it allows other passengers to be connected to the stereo to change the song from anywhere in the boat too.
I'd likely mount it on the vertical face under the steering and dash area to the left (when looking at the helm from the captains chair). That would provide the best way to keep the moisture out and have it easily accessible to use.
I bought this same console. How should I mount my new JVC stereo to the console. It's a rectangle stereo with cd player. It came with a sleeve but I'm unsure of how to mount it.
I would probably mount it in the flat panel under the lip of the main dash and steering wheel. Install the housing first, then the player will insert and lock in with the tabs on the sides of the player. Then a plate usually clips onto the housing to cover the hardware.
Yes, we will put that together along with the bits and pieces of wiring we’ve done. Is there anything in particular you want to see? Or start to finish for electrical from accessories, to lighting, to the engine harness, and all?
Yah I you so much for showing how to mount the cover on the console. My boat has the same console but the cover has just been dangling on there. Previous owner had it held on using Velcro! I now have to find those screws and washers so I can mount it properly. No more kiddos sticking their hands in there. Question for you. The cup holders get full of rain water. I see some small drilled holes in the cup holders. Is that normal to have holes in the cup holders? I worry about water getting into the console itself with the electrical in there.
Hey Adam! Believe it or not I’ve seen another panel velcro attached to one of those consoles here in Michigan! Definitely should be closed in tight, and I would definitely keep it water tight too. I have the standard console on my own boat and DID NOT drill holes. I just keep a rag around to soak up the water and dry the holders if they get water in them. A cover for the console (even a grill cover works) will help a ton. I would plug those holes and keep the underside dry. Long term it’ll be worth while rather than having faulty electrical! Let us know if there’s anything else you want to see covered!
@@tomspontoons excellent advice thank you. I would like to see a wiring video expanding on how you attach the wires to the underside of the deck. I watched your light video and you didn’t show how you attached the wires. Also an upholstery video if you can would be great.
Absolutely! We can show how we tie everything up in a future video. We don’t do upholstery in house, believe it or not. We use all DeckMate Seating and have some items, like sun decks, made custom at a local upholsterer.
I’ll be installing one on a boat in the next couple of weeks, and I’ll show the process. The control mounts on the taller part of the side part. I’m excited to give it a try!!
@@TheBradklepperich The issue I am having with the new deluxe console is that it's very deep. It made the 20' boat I'm working on too tight of a squeeze behind the captains chair to access the stern entry. So I'm trying something way different using the side storage arm for the binnacle control in combination with the smaller standard console. On the 24' boat in my shop the new console fits great!
@@tomspontoons can’t wait to see what you come up with. It looks like there’s room on the deluxe large for a throttle. I plan on using the flip bench as a captain chair so the side storage might be used along a seat or something as an arm rest.
@@TheBradklepperich Yes, the large helm has a place for a binnacle control. It's been my favorite helm to install so far. It's just a hair too wide for most 8' wide boats. It works on 8' wide, but it makes it a little squeeze getting through that area.
We have a video discussing "marine grade plywood" versus "marine grade treated plywood". If you're using marine grade treated plywood there is no need to seal or treat it. Just install the new carpet or vinyl right on top. Marine grade, like you can get at local stores, is still super expensive and it's not CCA treated...making me nervous about longevity. You can order CCA treated straight from Pontoon Stuff (use TOMSTOONS for 5% off at checkout) and they'll freight ship it to your house (free shipping). The big boat brands have used CCA treated marine grade plywood for decades on new boats.
How about a video on how to measure and install a Bimini top. I want to get one for my 18ft pontoon but have no idea how to go about measuring or installing. Great videos Make upgrading stuff look fun :)
Thanks for the question!! We have a bimini installation video we will try to post soon. Every top/frame is a little different, so best bet is to refer to the instructions which should provide those measurements. Both the Economy and Heavy Duty biminis from Pontoon Stuff give great instructions!
The switch panel? It could definitely go there, but it would be a little unnatural for most to look down to flip switches. They’re typically up on the dash…but if the dash was taken up by other stuff it could totally be installed there.
I don’t think so. I’ve only been able to install an older Mercury binnacle on this helm and it’s a tight squeeze. I would recommend going with a side mount control and bolting it to the side of the console or to the railing.
@@jeel2235 I personally prefer sticking with OEM products when possible. A Mercury or Quicksilver side mount box would work great for you. Check eBay for good used ones, or even give Vans Sport Center in Grand Rapids, MI a call. They often sell used parts and components and will ship all over…616-364-0666
In a perfect world you’d never get water under the helm. It wouldn’t hurt to have a drain hole or two though similar to how the seat bases are to allow it to drain if need be. I’ve never done it, but I think it’s a solid plan, might only be an issue if bugs can crawl in!
This is a dumb question but im completely lost when it come to mechanical things... does any ignition switch work and is that a seperate harness needes for it. Not sure how to run that
Your motor will have its own ignition harness and key switch that's separate from the electrical accessories (lights, stereo, etc). I highly recommend purchasing the OEM manufacturer's key switch and harness for your specific motor and brand. A local dealer should be able to help you with that part. Some are separate from the shift/throttle control while some are integrated into the back of the shift/throttle control.
Not an odd question, folks move consoles to and from the center position all the time. The biggest challenge would simply be routing the cables (shift/throttle and steering) and engine harness. You may have to get longer cables and a harness extension to make the extra run from the center of the boat to the outside. It's 100% doable, but might cost an extra $300-$400 to make it happen in those components alone. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Yes, this is the standard rotary helm with a straight (90 degree) setup. We have rigged them with angles too and it works well, but I prefer the standard helm on this console and the large console!!
All the time. Sometimes they’re in decent shape, sometimes they’re rotting and falling apart. Really just depends on the boat. We usually sell them cheap and fast if they’re usable.
hi Tom , question, yamaha 704 control box, steering wheel is 13.5 O.D. , do you think it will fit, other question, is the instrument panel area flat or radiused (convexed) ?
I can't answer that with 100% confidence as I don't have your exact setup in front of me. I know that I have installed similar style controls from other manufacturers on this console before using a 13.5" and even a 14" wheel. The surface as a slight convex shape to it. It's never been an issue for me when installing accessories and such as once they're tightened down they sit nice and flush.
Hey Tom I've been looking for your large console video's and can't seem to find them. Can please help me out and put the link back into the comment sent back to me? Thanks buddy your video's are awsome for us DIYers
Thanks for the kind words. We love sharing our knowledge to help people around the country to tackle their projects at home! Here's the links to that two part series: Part 1: ruclips.net/video/Hidwpm6-npU/видео.html Part 2: ruclips.net/video/M8vknCbTWes/видео.html
Stereo is a Deckmate blue tooth stereo from Pontoon Stuff. Easy to use and has been great. Switch panel was one of the Pontoon Stuff panels, but they’ve been out of stock a while now unfortunately
Thanks so much! Aw, dang it bout the music! First complaint there, have another style you like for out types of videos? I’m always open for suggestions!
@@tomspontoons Haha-any thrash metal will do from my perspective ;) It's just that I have to turn it down when the music comes on, and then back up when you start talking. But like I said, I'm digging your content. Thanks for the great resource to keep me out of trouble when I redo my toon.
@@jklstewart I suppose you luck out when I post some without any music!! It’s limited to choose from for music that’s okay to use…not sure metal would make everyone happy either. We’ll keep doing our best on the content side!!
I totally agree. I'm redoing my 20ft pontoon and bought almost everything from pontoon stuff and they've been great doing business with. Great videos but I really hate that music especially when it gets loud. Keep posting videos
The project pontoon boat I bought this fall has this exact replacement console. Fortunately the previous owner didn’t install anything in it except for the steering. I’ve brought it into the house to add options, like you said, much easier when it’s not in the boat. I put my Amazon switch/outlet panel in the vertical spot to keep the angled area free for a stereo and depth finder or whatever the next owner will want to install.
That's a great spot for a switch panel too. Keeps things more open for the face in case they're adding all sorts of crazy options!
Tom want to thank you for your refurbishing tutorials, in the middle of refurbing a 26ft 15 year old, and this is helping a lot. Decking wood choices seemed to be the biggest priority to me, but we stripped her all the way down with a lot of your advice.
That’s so great to hear! We started the channel to teach as many people as much as possible. There’ll always be DIY folks who tackle their pontoons so why not have a resource for them?!? I’ve only ever used the CCA marine grade treated plywood from Pontoon Stuff. We have our plywood water test going right now and the non treated is already showing mold on the surface (spoiler). Hope our videos help you as the boat comes back together too!
@@tomspontoons seems finding CCA Marine Grade plywood is hard to find in NE Alabama
@@TBeshears They’ll ship it to your house from PontoonStuff.com and it’s available in 4’x8’ and 4’x8.5’ sheets. Enter TOMSTOONS at checkout as a discount code to save 5%. It’s not cheap so the discount helps!! Spending the money once to do it right is worth it!
I'm remodeling my pontoon boat with the works, I bought a 8 switch panel, brand new interior seats, already installed a bamboo woven floor, purchased new stereo with four speakers, subwoofer,led underglow pontoon light's, interior led lights, led front lights, horn, a put in a third pontoon, new 4 blade prop, and a propane fireplace inside the front table, seats from deck mate, however I'm having trouble figuring out how to wire everything to the switches so that I can turn everything I just mentioned separately, as well as live well, bilge pump, and heater... I know it's a lot, I custom painted and re tined the railings and custom binami, mirrored out the pontoons... The wiring is just frustrating me, I have two batteries is there a way to have one designated to my accessories and one just for the motor, and yeah fish finder a well
You've got a ton of work done and a ton of work ahead of you it sounds like! Electrical is the one thing that slows people down or often worries or frustrate them. I always install the wiring harness from Pontoon Stuff. Here's a video about that:
ruclips.net/video/sOxnD6fRG1w/видео.html
The wiring harness has leads to power all of your nav lights, bilge pump/livewell, docking lights, and all the other accessories that can be powered from your 12V system. Once those are spliced into the harness all you have to do is plug it into the switch panel (assuming you bought the panel from Pontoon Stuff too, otherwise you'd have to splice it in like we've shown on other videos using Amazon Switch Panels). You could designate one battery to starting and one to your accessories, but your accessory battery would not get charged ever from the motor so you'd need a separate charging system for it (solar or plug in). I'd consider a beefy battery system for your accessories especially if you're running a subwoofer (with or without an amp). I'd go with two deep cycle batteries in parallel to prolong the time you can run your accessories. I would go with a battery switch which will allow you to push charge to all batteries and also be able to isolate which batteries are being used at certain times. This video breaks down a four position battery switch:
ruclips.net/video/Ue81uljYhvw/видео.html
Bro...thank you for what you do. I envy your job. If you make it to Nastyville, Tennis-shoe, hit me up, and we can go on the water nearby.
You mean Nash-Vegas?? We will be watching the Vols take on Alabama tomorrow!! Thanks for watching our videos and the kind words. We work hard, play hard, and get to do something we love working on boats!
Thx for all the info. So glad I could ur channel before I hit started. I’m have a hard time finding my model number anywhere on line so I can get specifics on my barge… guess I don’t need it but was hoping I’d be able to find it on crest site but guess they don’t go back to 1996.
You might be able to call or email Crest directly to learn more, but without the model it might be challenging. However, if you get the Hull ID number they might have record of it. The Hull ID is usually 12 digits and can be found on the starboard side in the rear on a plate riveted to the top of the toon, or sometimes etched in.
@@tomspontoonsI ordered and received this same console this week. I’m a lil concerned that the face where everything mounts like u did here is convex and doesn’t look like the panel and such will pull down flat. I hope is will because I’m sure once I cut it there will be nothing I can do about it.
Thx
@@Formerlywarmer I’ve not had a problem with anything not mounting flat. I have added screws on some of the larger panels I’ve install on them, to help secure it down snug.
Hey Tom, thanks for this video. I’m at this very stage with templates taped to the consul, 3” tach top right, 3” rpm top left and 2” trim dead center through the steering wheel. Glove box arrived today, impeccable timing and like you said, it fit perfectly in that flat spot beneath the wheel. But now here’s my dilemma…I wanted to place my 6 gang switch with usb charger, 12 volt charger and volt meter beneath the tach. And my radio, 7”x2” hole, beneath the rpm gauge. But on these smaller consuls the darn mounting surface is curved! So the trim for the radio and the switch don’t sit flush…unless you reach for the impact and give her some dugga, duggas. So now I’m having to mount the radio on the side and the switch panel below and beside the glove box. Neither are the handiest location but now a least provide a flat surface to mount. So just curious if you knew why Pontoonstuff made these 😂consuls with the curved panel instead of it being flat, which would’ve made more sense. Anyways my friend, thanks again for your help and advice. Certainly makes it easier! 👍🏻
I've dealt with the curved surface for the last few years in a number of ways. It's pretty common for me to add screws to some of the switch panels on that surface to help pull it down nice and snug, and if there's still a gap anywhere a little clear silicone helps seal things up. No idea why they made it curved other than style and aesthetics. I have done stereos on the side of it before when needed and it turns out pretty well and quite practical...if the captain isn't playing the music then it makes it easy for someone else to access the stereo without crowding over the helm. I do like my switch panel up on the dash though versus down on the flat spot.
Thanks!
Thank you so much!!
@@tomspontoons you two have a cuppa coffee on me. Thanks for all your help!!
@@davidcobb4527 You're too kind sir! It's Friday so it might be a couple of drinks on our weekly "Friday Meeting" at the pub!
Hi Tom, your videos are the best! I can't tell you how helpful they have been as we muddle our way through our pontoon remodel, wished I had discovered your channel before we put the new decking on. I'm wondering if you have any suggestions or another console video coming out on the new Deckmate Deluxe Large Pontoon Console ? We went with that one as the other large console was too wide for our area. We were surprised to see that despite there being a side door and ample access given by removable dashboard section that there is also a large (too large) cut out on the right side, with no way to close that up. Anyways, we are trying to figure out best configuration of guages and the binnacle for it, but seems like we will need to put the binnacle on the side storage unit.
Thanks so much for watching my channel. I’m glad it’s been helpful for you! I will be installing some of those consoles for the first time coming up so I will definitely make a video for installation!!
When you made cut-outs for steerage, switch panel, ... you mentioned your tool was a dremel. My dremel spins and cuts with a mini circular saw blade. It made a mess of the steerage cut-out. Fortunately the hole is covered up by steering wheel base. I hesitate to cut-out the switch panel with my dremel. Yours looked more like a mini sawzall / reciprocating saw. Can you share and more details about the tool? Thanks!!
I use a Dremel 4000 series Rotary Tool with a cutting bit. I freehand cut everything, but there is a circle tool if needed. I’ve had mine a year and it’s starting to lose its power…but that’s fine for 40+ boats of cutting consoles, speaker holes, and so much more. Lastly, DEFINITELY get the corded option!!!
Tool:
www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-4000-Series-1-6-Amp-Variable-Speed-Corded-Rotary-Tool-Kit-with-34-Accessories-4-Attachments-and-Carrying-Case-4000-4-34/205183198
Bit:
www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-8-in-Rotary-Tool-Multi-Purpose-Cutting-Bit-for-Wood-Plastic-Fiberglass-Drywall-Aluminum-and-Vinyl-Siding-561/202263174
why didnt you go with hydraulic steering, you wouldn't have to worry about placement of the teleflex cable
With a small outboard there was no need for hydraulic steering. So to keep the cost effectiveness we can swap the cable to match the new layout of the boat a lot quicker/easier/cheaper. Trust me, I love hydraulic steering, but it would have made this extremely expensive and unnecessary on this HP motor. Great question!!
AWESOME
Thanks Ben!!
Tom, this has been really educational with all your videos, question on a regular console model like in your video can you add the throttle to that type of console or is there not enough room for it with the steering etc underneath? wondering if we need to return the console or not now...
I just posted a video with an aftermarket binnacle control box (topside mount). There are a few that won’t work with this console. I prefer to do a side mount box on the railing for this smaller console, and go with the large helm for a binnacle control. I’ve made it work several times for binnacle controls including Mercury and Honda controls.
why you did not put the stereo on the side of the console
I've honestly never seen a stereo installed in the side of a console, at least not from the factory. Either way, being on the face of the console allows the captain to turn the music up, down, or off in the case of an event where it's necessary for safety. With the BlueTooth stereos these days it allows other passengers to be connected to the stereo to change the song from anywhere in the boat too.
How do you mount a standard rectangle stereo/ cd player to this type of console. I bought a JVC stereo. It has a sleeve but unsure how to mount it.
I'd likely mount it on the vertical face under the steering and dash area to the left (when looking at the helm from the captains chair). That would provide the best way to keep the moisture out and have it easily accessible to use.
Think its possible to fit a new style mercury binical shifter in this console ?
Yes, it definitely is! I just did one this summer.
I bought this same console. How should I mount my new JVC stereo to the console. It's a rectangle stereo with cd player. It came with a sleeve but I'm unsure of how to mount it.
I would probably mount it in the flat panel under the lip of the main dash and steering wheel. Install the housing first, then the player will insert and lock in with the tabs on the sides of the player. Then a plate usually clips onto the housing to cover the hardware.
Can you do a complete wiring video
Yes, we will put that together along with the bits and pieces of wiring we’ve done. Is there anything in particular you want to see? Or start to finish for electrical from accessories, to lighting, to the engine harness, and all?
Yah I you so much for showing how to mount the cover on the console. My boat has the same console but the cover has just been dangling on there. Previous owner had it held on using Velcro! I now have to find those screws and washers so I can mount it properly. No more kiddos sticking their hands in there. Question for you. The cup holders get full of rain water. I see some small drilled holes in the cup holders. Is that normal to have holes in the cup holders? I worry about water getting into the console itself with the electrical in there.
Hey Adam! Believe it or not I’ve seen another panel velcro attached to one of those consoles here in Michigan! Definitely should be closed in tight, and I would definitely keep it water tight too. I have the standard console on my own boat and DID NOT drill holes. I just keep a rag around to soak up the water and dry the holders if they get water in them. A cover for the console (even a grill cover works) will help a ton. I would plug those holes and keep the underside dry. Long term it’ll be worth while rather than having faulty electrical! Let us know if there’s anything else you want to see covered!
You can find stainless finish washers and flat head screws at Lowes or Home Depot!! They’ll work just fine
@@tomspontoons excellent advice thank you. I would like to see a wiring video expanding on how you attach the wires to the underside of the deck. I watched your light video and you didn’t show how you attached the wires. Also an upholstery video if you can would be great.
Absolutely! We can show how we tie everything up in a future video. We don’t do upholstery in house, believe it or not. We use all DeckMate Seating and have some items, like sun decks, made custom at a local upholsterer.
Have you used the console with the side storage arm? Wondering where the throttle would be mounted. Their website doesn’t say much about it.
I’ll be installing one on a boat in the next couple of weeks, and I’ll show the process. The control mounts on the taller part of the side part. I’m excited to give it a try!!
@@tomspontoons perfect! I’m 8’ wide. And not a fan of the basic console but not a fan of the 40”+ width of the other console either lol.
@@TheBradklepperich The issue I am having with the new deluxe console is that it's very deep. It made the 20' boat I'm working on too tight of a squeeze behind the captains chair to access the stern entry. So I'm trying something way different using the side storage arm for the binnacle control in combination with the smaller standard console. On the 24' boat in my shop the new console fits great!
@@tomspontoons can’t wait to see what you come up with. It looks like there’s room on the deluxe large for a throttle. I plan on using the flip bench as a captain chair so the side storage might be used along a seat or something as an arm rest.
@@TheBradklepperich Yes, the large helm has a place for a binnacle control. It's been my favorite helm to install so far. It's just a hair too wide for most 8' wide boats. It works on 8' wide, but it makes it a little squeeze getting through that area.
Do you need to treat new marine plywood on decking pontoon boat before carpet not using glue for carpet
We have a video discussing "marine grade plywood" versus "marine grade treated plywood". If you're using marine grade treated plywood there is no need to seal or treat it. Just install the new carpet or vinyl right on top. Marine grade, like you can get at local stores, is still super expensive and it's not CCA treated...making me nervous about longevity. You can order CCA treated straight from Pontoon Stuff (use TOMSTOONS for 5% off at checkout) and they'll freight ship it to your house (free shipping). The big boat brands have used CCA treated marine grade plywood for decades on new boats.
Thank you for getting back to me love your show very educational
@@allafedele6858 Glad you're enjoying our videos!
How about a video on how to measure and install a Bimini top. I want to get one for my 18ft pontoon but have no idea how to go about measuring or installing. Great videos Make upgrading stuff look fun :)
Thanks for the question!! We have a bimini installation video we will try to post soon. Every top/frame is a little different, so best bet is to refer to the instructions which should provide those measurements. Both the Economy and Heavy Duty biminis from Pontoon Stuff give great instructions!
On the smaller console can you put the fuse panel on that lower section below the steering wheel?
The switch panel? It could definitely go there, but it would be a little unnatural for most to look down to flip switches. They’re typically up on the dash…but if the dash was taken up by other stuff it could totally be installed there.
Hi Tom can the Marpac top mount contol that you recommend work on this helm??
I don’t think so. I’ve only been able to install an older Mercury binnacle on this helm and it’s a tight squeeze. I would recommend going with a side mount control and bolting it to the side of the console or to the railing.
@@tomspontoons
I have a 1994 mariner should I go with marpac side mount or any other recomendations
@@jeel2235 I personally prefer sticking with OEM products when possible. A Mercury or Quicksilver side mount box would work great for you. Check eBay for good used ones, or even give Vans Sport Center in Grand Rapids, MI a call. They often sell used parts and components and will ship all over…616-364-0666
Is it necessary to add drain holes into the bottom of the console? All of the seats had them but this did not, so we were curious.
In a perfect world you’d never get water under the helm. It wouldn’t hurt to have a drain hole or two though similar to how the seat bases are to allow it to drain if need be. I’ve never done it, but I think it’s a solid plan, might only be an issue if bugs can crawl in!
This is a dumb question but im completely lost when it come to mechanical things... does any ignition switch work and is that a seperate harness needes for it. Not sure how to run that
Your motor will have its own ignition harness and key switch that's separate from the electrical accessories (lights, stereo, etc). I highly recommend purchasing the OEM manufacturer's key switch and harness for your specific motor and brand. A local dealer should be able to help you with that part. Some are separate from the shift/throttle control while some are integrated into the back of the shift/throttle control.
Odd question. How hard would it be to move my console from the side to more center(ish)
Not an odd question, folks move consoles to and from the center position all the time. The biggest challenge would simply be routing the cables (shift/throttle and steering) and engine harness. You may have to get longer cables and a harness extension to make the extra run from the center of the boat to the outside. It's 100% doable, but might cost an extra $300-$400 to make it happen in those components alone. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Hi. What angle steering bracket fits best? Is that a 90° ?
Yes, this is the standard rotary helm with a straight (90 degree) setup. We have rigged them with angles too and it works well, but I prefer the standard helm on this console and the large console!!
Which bit do you use to cut the holes in the console?
I use a standard hole saw kit. Any bit that’s made for wood will cut through the plastic too no problem!
Do you ever run across used steering consoles?
All the time. Sometimes they’re in decent shape, sometimes they’re rotting and falling apart. Really just depends on the boat. We usually sell them cheap and fast if they’re usable.
hi Tom ,
question, yamaha 704 control box, steering wheel is 13.5 O.D. , do you think it will fit, other question, is the instrument panel area flat or radiused (convexed) ?
I can't answer that with 100% confidence as I don't have your exact setup in front of me. I know that I have installed similar style controls from other manufacturers on this console before using a 13.5" and even a 14" wheel.
The surface as a slight convex shape to it. It's never been an issue for me when installing accessories and such as once they're tightened down they sit nice and flush.
thank you sir for taking time to answer!!!@@tomspontoons
@@pickinpop always happy to help!
Hey Tom I've been looking for your large console video's and can't seem to find them. Can please help me out and put the link back into the comment sent back to me? Thanks buddy your video's are awsome for us DIYers
Thanks for the kind words. We love sharing our knowledge to help people around the country to tackle their projects at home! Here's the links to that two part series:
Part 1: ruclips.net/video/Hidwpm6-npU/видео.html
Part 2: ruclips.net/video/M8vknCbTWes/видео.html
Stereo is from where? and Switch panel ??
Stereo is a Deckmate blue tooth stereo from Pontoon Stuff. Easy to use and has been great. Switch panel was one of the Pontoon Stuff panels, but they’ve been out of stock a while now unfortunately
Subscribed, liked, and love your content. Hate the music.
Thanks so much! Aw, dang it bout the music! First complaint there, have another style you like for out types of videos? I’m always open for suggestions!
@@tomspontoons Haha-any thrash metal will do from my perspective ;) It's just that I have to turn it down when the music comes on, and then back up when you start talking. But like I said, I'm digging your content. Thanks for the great resource to keep me out of trouble when I redo my toon.
@@jklstewart I suppose you luck out when I post some without any music!! It’s limited to choose from for music that’s okay to use…not sure metal would make everyone happy either. We’ll keep doing our best on the content side!!
I totally agree. I'm redoing my 20ft pontoon and bought almost everything from pontoon stuff and they've been great doing business with.
Great videos but I really hate that music especially when it gets loud.
Keep posting videos