Making 18th Century Stays (Corset)
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- Next in my More Historically Accurate Demelza series, it was time to sew my 18th century stays! This garment was the ancestor of the corset-- and no, it is not intended for tight-lacing, just support and shape. It's the foundation for 18th century dress, so these needed to be finished before I could start on the rest of the outfit. This video walks through all of the steps, from pattern tracing, cutting out, sewing channels, constructing the garment, adding boning, binding the edges, and finishing with hand-sewn eyelets. While this project had some technically and physically challenging moments, and some fit issues that are unique to my body, it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. The stays are pretty, comfortable, and very supportive, and now I can start on my gown!
I used linen and cotton fabrics, cable ties for boning, and a chamois leather cloth for binding.
For more about my fabric and pattern choices, watch my Project Overview video : • Video
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White cotton twill : www.dharmatrad...
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Music from filmmusic.io
"Luminous Rain" by Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
"Vision of Persistence" by Kevin MacLeod
"Midsummer Sky" by Kevin MacLeod
"Impromptu in Blue" by Kevin MacLeod
License: CC BY (creativecommons...)
You highly underestimate the mental health aspect of watching someone just pin and cut fabric for 5 minutes with soothing music playing in the background. 90%of what I watch on RUclips is historical costumers because it's not loud, flashy or overwhelming, and I can have it playing in the background and I know I'm not missing something seriously important if I look away for a minute or two.
Commercial sewing pattern companies will often change the designs of patterns created by costumers they collaborate with. Some of these changes are meant to make the pattern more accessible to the average home sewer (modern construction techniques, fewer boning channels, modern materials, etc), some are the result of the pattern makers misinterpreting what the original designers did, and some changes are caused by the wonky sizing system that pattern companies use (lots of ease, weird proportions, etc). On the bright side, creators like American Duchess will often have supplemental materials (PDFs, blog posts, videos, etc) explaining how to hack the commercial patterns.
Kirsten Paff:
I think American Duchess did a video on this and I think they mentioned Simplicity changed a bit of the original pattern
The “algorithms” pattern companies use to grade patterns tend to have no idea what to do with negative ease. They’re meant for garments with a decent amount of positive ease, not stays or corsets, so they really mess up those patterns.
What I usually do with tissue patterns, particularly when I know I will be using it again, is to iron on a medium weight interfacing to the back of the piece. This stabilizes the pattern piece so it won't tear, but I still have all the pattern piece markings available. This makes the pattern piece almost indestructible, but unlike butcher paper the piece is still flexible enough to mold to the body for temporary trial fitting.
Ooh, so like the freezer paper trick! That's so clever.
@@SnappyDragon Not quite, unlike freezer paper the iron on fusible interfacing is permanent and flexible. You can then pin the pattern piece to fabric without any degradation of the pattern piece. I've used this method for patterns that I know I will use repeatedly. I use the same type of medium weight fusible interfacing that you'd use for clothing construction. It makes working with the tissues so much easier.
I just might have to get myself some interfacing :D
Do you put anything on top of the paper?
Won't the paper still wear/rip away over time? (Newbie here so I don't yet understand how these things work)
Omg genius! But possibly a bit expensive
Hey, another one of my unasked for advice comments, but you can totally wash and even press (steaming is better) plastic zip tie boning. Hand wash if you're worried about your seams, and lay flat to dry. But my ren fair bodices are all plastic boned and i throw them in a large garment bag, machine was on gentle and lay flat to dry (not regularly, but I work fair and that my bodices will be black in places). And I've Ironed those zip ties when they've been curling the wrong way for corsets. Of course then I realized if i alternate the direction of the curve on the bones it solves the problem, but I've done it.
Hello V, As someone who's been sewing since I was five years old--75 years ago, everything you are doing here is perfect. I use a Bic lighter to round the ends of plastic stays but your method is fine, too. It's always fun to watch your videos.
I just came here to say I subbed for the binding/boning/binding again comment.
I'm making this one right now! My mockup was HUGE eventhough it should have been correct to my measurements according to the pattern. I bet Simplicity added Ease or misunderstood or misprinted the measurements. I'm making mine two sizes down and hoping that will work better. Thank you for posting, this made me feel so much better!
Their pattern grading algorithms are very much _not_ made for garments with negative ease, which is a problem when they’re applied to patterns for corsets and stays. I’m guessing that your mock-up ended up as loose-fitting as a modern shirt.
@@ragnkja Yes, exactly.
Re: your waist size changing randomly, girl I feel this SO hard. Mine changes anywhere from an inch to two inches depending on the time of the flippin' DAY. Ugh. Makes me want to wear my (eventually sewn) stays all the time! XD
My entire body is like this (I fluctuate constantly over a span of seventy pounds). I think I gained more than three inches in both the waist and hips this year, with *no* discernable cause. Meanwhile, sometimes I will lose more than twenty pounds in a month - again, no discernable reason! So frustrating. I feel like half my sewing life is spent making sloper patterns.
@@HosCreates Thank you. ❤ I do have hypothyroidism, and that certainly was a factor, but that's been medicated, so there's definitely something else at play.
A little disappointed by the lack of comments about being bound and boned... But seriously, these stays are beautiful. You make it look so easy, I might actually try it someday instead of just dreaming about it
Same haha !
Stays were the bra
I actually really enjoyed the cutting of the pieces. I found it really soothing!
Have you seen Juul Thijssen yet? She does videos that are like that, but the whole ways through.
Very nice! I starch the heck out of unstable/squidgy woven fabrics to help preserve my sanity. Great use of the bobbie pin!
The issue with the sizing is that even though corsets and stays etc are meant to be patterned with negative ease. When it comes to commercial patterning this negative ease tends to be converted into regular ease so the fit tends to be loose. I discovered this with the fit of this pattern too. Way to solve it is to go down a size or two and always do a mockup/toile. Yeah I know making several mockups are tedious when it comes to stays but the end results justify the means! And it has the benefit of having your boning pre made for your final version too (plus a handy holder for them while you make the final too!).
My body shape isn't very compatible (short-waisted, sway back and high hip joys) with this pattern sadly but I'm glad you got them to work for you!
I would have thought that about the ease, but one of the patternmakers specifically says the stays include negative ease and are cut to be smaller than the body measurements, et c. The next corset I make is getting many many mockups >_< But these stays should last me for a while. Glad you liked the video!
@@SnappyDragon yeah its when simplicity themselves apply the sizing guide that the negative ease becomes regular ease. It seems like this is a regular occurrence across all the major pattern companies though for pretty much every kind of pattern though. E.g. For this pattern specifically I'm supposed to be an 14/16 (I always have to grade between normally for bust/hip) according to the pattern sleeve but with measuring the pieces and heavy alterations I ended up being the 10/12. Like you I was stuck altering it as I went! Downside was I fully boned mine with 6mm German Whalebone haha!
Glad you'll get use from yours! I ended up moving onto extant c.1740s Corsets and Crinoline pattern and then the Smooth Covered c.1735-50 pattern from Patterns of Fashion 5. With my figure those worked better for me, I didn't even need to shorten the them either surprisingly!
I've now banned myself from making more until I finally do a dress haha!
Can never have too many pairs of stays though..
The one thing about this pattern that did work for me was the short-waistedness, actually! When I mocked up the 1780s round gown to go over it I had to shorten the bodice a good 2-3 inches, but the stays hit almost in the right place. Good to know about the Big 4 and ease, I don't love standard commercial patterns anyways so now I have another excuse to buy ones that are printed on actual paper. I think with my measurements, even if I sized down to the smallest size in this pattern, it might still have been too big.
I am also banned from making more stays until this pair dies, but that's because I don't get to wear 18th century things often . . . Says the girl who's daydreaming of a new 1780s gown without even finishing the current one.
The thing about stays too is the reduction and negative ease depend on how squishy you are! I have a larger bust, but it's squishy, so it compresses easily. I can get away with a smaller size because my squish relocates relatively easily lol.
Another thing I've learnt recently is to try to find the Finished Garment Measurements - often not included on the envelope, sometimes on the pattern pieces themselves (McCalls does this at waist and bust points), or sometimes ONLY the back length (not helpful to me). Butterick and McCalls add about 3-5" ease, and it really messes things up! I always have to do a full bust adjustment AND add length
@@River2500 yeah I measure and total the pattern pieces to see if they fit!
That said I make my own patterns frequently or alter extant ones instead of relying much on modern ones anymore.
Sometimes you can wing into a different size with minimal alteration but often I need to alter like crazy! So far on the American Duchess front I now have ONE pattern that works for me out of theirs which is the Split Rump 😂 so there is one saving grace for the book!
Commercially made stays sell for about $300., give or take a few bucks, custom made ones can go for a lot more! You have done a great job for a lot less, and taught yourself a skill!
I have accounted for at least 15 of the views on this video! It’s literally the best reference while I’m making these, currently on my last strip of binding 🥱😴
OMG you just solved a problem I have with my stays!!!!!! Thank you!
Just wanted to say thanks for the content. About to start working on this pattern and watching you do it first is very helpful.
Thank you for showing the making of this pattern.I am fairly experienced at sewing but watching this has helped me move another step towards being brave enough to open the pattern packet and begin.
Commendations to you for you put in so much effort into making this remarkably fine piece of costume, it is without reproach.
Thank you so much for posting this. I have this pattern and have made it to the stays part and got stuck because I was terrified of even tying something so complicated. Watching you make it from start to finish has given me a great reference and I don’t feel so scared to try. Thanks again 💕
That's wonderful! My takeaway is that stays are physically tricky, but fairly straightforward patterning and such. You got this ☺️
I just bought this pattern a little while ago (waiting for it to arrive)! Good to know this video exists to help me make it when I get my pattern!
I really loved your explanation of how you problem-solved the fitting issue!
This was absolutely wonderful!! I think we’d be good friends hehe. I’m going to try to make a mockup of stays this week, so I’ll be coming back to this video a lot!
Yes! Don't be like me, do a proper mockup with bones and everything. I'm always excited for sewing friends, you should find me on IG!
I love that color on you! Your stays came out really nice!
Thank you! I'm actually sad now I didn't order more of that linen, although if I'm stuck in my house much longer I might get some and do a jacket.
SnappyDragon are you in the SF area? I’m San Diego and it looks like it’s going to be a while for most of California. I say order the linen! 🥰
I’m about to get started on these stays, I’m super excited. Your video was really helpful! Subscribed :)
Yay! It's a really good pattern, I bet yours will turn out super well.
This video is really helpful, I'm going to try using the other American Duchess/Simplicity stays pattern to make a sort of full-torso chest binder, altering it by raising the neck and maybe removing the tabs for a smoother edge under regular t-shirts (we'll see how the mockup goes). I actually watched an old livestream Q&A on the American Duchess channel about the pattern of stays you're making, and the stays they made as the final version of the pattern are boned using zip ties.
Loved watching your video. Just a helpfull tip (I hope) for the eyelets, if you ever do them again by hand while going round with the tread after a few stitches put in the holemaker (don't know the english name) just to make the it perfectly round. I did a course of sailmaking way back and it is the same technic only with bigger holes.
The holemaker is called an awl in English, but as a native speaker I still tend to forget the word and just call it a stabby thing.
@@alexismontez4230 Yes stabby thing with no sharp point. Thanks for responding. If you just go in the hole slightly with no real pressure it wil keep the fabric in place. By that you can make closer stitches and the eyelet will become perfectly round. The corsets with the stitched eyelets are so much more apealing to me and I love seeing videos where people make them. The thread can give so much more flair to the corset.
Yup! I repoke mine after stitching to make them look nice and round
I don’t know if anyone else mentioned it, but sometimes the tabs would be lined separately to the rest of the lining. Those bits of lining were sometimes made with simple scraps and often contrasted with the lining or other fabrics used. You can the bind the tabs over those small tab lining pieces, but when putting in the main lining, it’s more of a bodice shape without the tabs, shoulder straps etc and much easier to do, generally avoiding much of the binding at the lower edge
Ive been using commercial patterns and I've been mainly using them for the bodices of my designs/projects and I use the size that is guided by the patterns and every time I put them on after everything is finished they are almost always too big! I love that you were able to modify it in the most efficient way possible and it looks amazing!
I’m new to sewing and really want to make corsets as I collect them. I watched your video and thought she’s so talented and omg this seems soooo challenging I hope I can do this! 🙈😫😄
🤣🤣🤣 the thing to take from this is that I am also new and have no idea what I'm doing, and if I can do it, of course you can!
I'm so glad I found you. I just cut out this pattern this morning, and have been sitting looking at it ever since. 😁
Aww, thanks! Take a couple deep breaths. You can do this.
Very good video, I am trying to make some stays at the moment and watching you doing them helped ease my initial fear whenever I’m doing a project 😊
I'm so glad! That's what I'm here for.
I experienced the same thing with this pattern. I even merged two sizes to ensure the correct bust and waist size but it was several inches too big. I couldn't' even salvage it as you did so I remade it. Despite making it 2 sizes smaller it was still too big and I ended up sewing the back panels together. I'm sure it's not American Duchess's fault but it was still frustrating, especially since the shift in the same pattern package fit too small. Patterns have never been my friend......
Check out Kirsten Paff’s comment and the replies, it really explains the issues you are having.
Why you do the mock up. There’s an excellent American Duchess or Abby Cox video of the mock up and alterations process for stays/ corsetry. ( Same person, different channels). She demos how you tighten them up.
To be honest it would be great to see you making mistakes! It's always great to learn from seeing the problem solving process. Love your video, they turned out really nicely :)
Thank you very much for making this video. I, myself, am making a pair of these same stays, but lost the pattern booklet with the instructions. Since I had already planned to do my lining the period way, like you did, writing down the steps you took to make your stays will be very helpful in making my own. Thank you, again. Lyssa
I had to use the close up my back also on mine I made.. different pattern but same issue. Nice job
I have the same machine, and am making this pattern in the next few weeks! This was super helpful to watch ❤
Wonderful! It's a good little machine, I've been asking some industrial-machine level things from mine sewing masks the past few weeks and it's kept up extremely well.
it came out so great!! i used this pattern to make my first pair of stays last year and actually found your video whilst searching to refresh myself for my next pair ^_^ !! I would have NEVER thought to use embroidery floss for the eyelets there on the front, such a great idea. Happy sewing!!
Thank you! Tbh I use embroidery floss because I'm too cheap to buy buttonhole twist, but it seems to work. I bet your stays will be gorgeous!
@@SnappyDragon Thank you!! Crossing my fingers! Hey, nothing wrong with using other materials :D Whoop whoop!
The problem with using embroidery floss is it’s not meant to wear......embroidery on the whole doesn’t have to deal with friction, whereas eyelets whole reason for existing is friction and protecting the fabric from it. This is why it’s recommended to use buttonhole twist, which is designed to take a lot of friction and abrasive force.
I made a mockup with that pattern and got so frustrated with the poor fit after several fiddlings with it that I gave up. You came up with a really good fix!
I made this pattern too, and mine also ended up being a little too big. It fit across my bust perfectly but was too loose around the waist. I’m actually about to try and fix mine in a similar way. I added extra bones to mine so I’m a little limited. I guess we’ll see what I end up doing. Good to know I’m not alone!
I had a lot of questions about making stays that you answered. Thank you!
I just got this pattern and traced it on white thin tissue paper using a sheet of glass with a lamp under as a makeshift luminous table so I don't have to cut the pattern and if the white paper rips I'm not going to loose my mind.
With that said I still don't understand how to actually cut out the pieces on the fabric. I see that with some peices you flipped them right side down. Is that the correct way to do the other "half"? Face up for one side (all four pieces) and face down for the left side to make it mirrored?
I'm a mega noob and decided to throw myself into the 18th century. I now realize that was a bit of a leap 😂
Suggestions are much appreciated.
I hope to be as good as you some day 😊
If you don't have your fabric folded you have to cut 1 set right side up then flip it over and cut the second set. Usually I fold the fabric in half and iron my fabric smooth and pin the pattern to it and cut both sets at 1 time as it saves time and work. But however you do it, it will be ok as the end result will be the same.
Thank you! I recently bought this pattern and was feeling intimidated. You make this look doable!
"Nippers of Doom", lmao! 🤣You crack me up!
Excellent!
Well done! Fitting stays is hard
Super project
Cutting the boning on an angle! That’s so simple yet so brilliant:)
I recently made these (not finished yet) but the pattern told me i was a size 12. Usually in shop clothes I'm a 6 or 8 so i made a very quick mock up and sure enough it was way too big, and i ended up making an 8, which fits very well. Also i lengthened mine as it was too short and added more boning, i did end up messing up the boning a bit but it turn out pretty ok for ny first corset type thing i reckon
I also have problems with finding modern clothing that fits my waist, my waist is around 66-70 cm which is a S or a M depending on the brand but when buying pants S is too big for waist, M is too big and XS sometimes fits the waist but is tighter than I want on my legs. Due to this I either wear a belt with S pants or try to take them in which I'm not very good at yet.
I also have a greatly varying waist measurement!!!
Oh good, it's not just me 🤣
@@SnappyDragon is it possible that your sewist measuring tape has stretched? bernadette banner laments how often/easily that happens. would it help to wrap a non-stretch string around your waist for length and then measure said string on a yardstick?
i'm glad i'm not the only one with that small of a waist. it makes buying clothes nigh impossible, especially given that my hips are 10" larger. modern clothing is made for boys or for girls who are shaped like boxes! :(
@@ushere5791 Possible, but the numbers get smaller as well as bigger . . .
@@SnappyDragon well, crud! sounds like you have your own personal bermuda triangle of waist measurement distortion field! :0
fabulous!!!
Could I use a twin needle for the boning channels?
I literally just finished this pattern today! Not sure how accurate it is but I didn't find it too difficult to follow even though it was my first time using bias binding and making eyelets. I did seam up the center back as well and if I hadn't it would have been way too big. Btw my waist measures 26" and I made a size 12 so I'm not too sure about their pattern measurements either!
What do you do if the size chart of a pattern doesn’t correspond to your measurements (ex. bust measurement in one of the given rows, and the waist in another? Like 32” bust and 22” waist?)
I’ve never seen more than a stuffed animal and pillow, but I am curious how pattern sizing works.
Depends on the pattern! For these stays you could draw a line connecting the two sizes, but it's different for every type of garment.
@@SnappyDragon Thanks! That makes sense!
What do the stays feel like on you?
Does anyone have any recommendations on how to measure yourself more accurately? This is the first time I’ve sewed anything with a pattern before…. I’m currently on my third mock up going down a size each time. Would love any tips!
Edit: just finished the third mock up and it is still way too big, going to have to go buy the pattern in the smaller size run….
How long did this take in total days ? Lovely work by the way!
Thank you! I don't actually keep track of my sewing time, but I would guess around a month of evenings and days off, while working on a few other small projects.
Tissue patterns can be reinforced using iron on Pellon
Iron spray starch on tissue paper makes it more durable.
One mistake I made with this pattern is that I didn't realize my fabric had a nap and so both my side back pieces were upside down and had a different sheen in the light than the rest of the fabric 🤦♂️ it pays to check which is the top and bottom of the pattern pieces when you're laying them. I also should've sewn around the tabs at the bottom so they don't fray. The bias tape definitely isnt enough to finish the edges. Instead I just put fabric glue at the top of each peak under the tape
Hmm how did you get a size ten? i ordered the pattern and i got sizes 14-22
They have 2 sets of sizes, one starts at 6 and the other at 14.
My waist does exactly the same thing, according to all patterns my waist is a size up from my hips....they are not! I have an hourglass shape. Every time I make something I measure my waist and hips...every time the same thing....so I have to take it all with a pinch of salt.
I want
You iron those tissue patterns. Makes a world of difference!
Cool iron, no steam.
Also better to iron that twill and grain it first. I can see by the bubbling it’s off grain.
Interesting that synthetic whalebone is expensive for you. Got mine fairly cheap. About £5 for 5m but it might be because I could just buy what I needed. Zip ties would have been cheaper but couldn't get heavy duty ones without ordering on amazon and had to order my busk as well so went for the more expensive route.
I also have to buy smaller than I measured my waist. I'm cursed to always be measured wrongdoer somthin
Great video, thank you, but I found listening to you talk over the music very annoying, why not just turn it off?
la forma de coserlo es erronea y no usas la cantidad de capas de telas correcta