Just FYI, I did over oil the pivots of the slow speed governor in this video. You really only need the tiniest amount. I would recommend looking up some watchmaking videos for better examples of how to properly oil a pivot.
This has been a fantastic series, Sam! I recently pulled my K1000 out of the closet to take pictures of the eclipse, and found my light meter acting erratically. As I changed the shutter speed settings, no (or very little) movement of the needle, regardless of the amount of light. But as I clicked through the settings, I would periodically hit one that caused the needle to peg at the upper end and stay there, again regardless of the amount of light. I’ve been watching videos to see if there was anything I could try to fix it, and so far your videos have been the best source of useful information. Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Thanks much. It sounds like maybe the variable resistors around the shutter speed dial or the aperture could be dirty. I'll be doing a video on the meter circuit in a couple weeks where I dive into those parts. Hopefully you can find something to help you sort out your camera.
Sorry, I'm only working on personal projects right now. If you let me know what part of the world you're in, I might be able to recommend a good repair service.
I was going to ask the same question, glad I read the comments before I did lol! Would you happen to know anyone in the Southeast Illinois/Southwest Indiana area?
@@mrimmortal1579 Sorry, I don't. You have to be pretty lucky to have a camera repair shop in your town these days, haha. I think most people have to mail theirs in.
Great videos series! Would love to see a tutorial on how you would disassemble, clean, and adjust the shutter timing of the curtains if you get a chance. I have a difficult time getting the shutter speeds accurate across all speeds after fully cleaning and adjusting a camera with shutter problems.
Currently working on the last video for this camera where I adjust the shutter timing. Unfortunately, I also have some issues getting all the speeds within spec. So I'm not sure if I'll be able to provide any answers but at least some company in misery, haha.
Very informative, but also intimidating seeing all of those tiny parts, bushings, screws, etc. Think I'll attempt some of the more basic stuff on a parts camera before this! Could you just use a ultra fine tip sharpie to mark the position of the gears? Seems more accurate and less messy to clean off.
@@SamsCameraBench Gotcha. Also, where do you get the foam scraping tools that you are using? They look like sturdy metal but blunt and polished so they don't scratch surfaces. I may start getting some tools to learn and attempt these repairs.
I have repaired an LX but I want more experience with the camera before I make a video about it. It's a very complicated camera. I'll get to it someday.
Very nice series, definitely helping me get a leg up with understanding how the modular shutter components link together, and gives me a bit more confidence with my disassembly. I was always pretty hesitant to start removing linkages because I don't know the particular ins-and-outs of how the components interact - but I think I have a better idea now. I have a question though - since you seem to have some watchmaker's experience to some degree. Is there any good or bad reason to add some slight lubricant to the star wheel and pallet/ratchet mechanism it engages on the slow speed mechanism? Most of the watchmakers I observe use a thin film to help with smoothing the escape, and reducing wear as the teeth and notch engage repeatedly.
I don't have any first hand experience with watchmaking (just watched some videos on youtube), but I do know what you're talking about. It's common practice to lubricate the contacting surfaces of the pallet fork. Unfortunately, I don't have any good insight for you. All I can say is that the service manual doesn't recommend it, but I don't know the reasoning. Good luck on your repairs!
Awesome informative video. Thank you for the detailed explanation! I've done this procedure for repair, but not for regular CLA. your video is motivational to try it again. However, in my case the camera was initially jammed. i could not understand why the bulb mode would not activate, the second curtain latch would not engage. the service manual suggests filing the latch, but i decided to gain more experience before doing so.
@@SamsCameraBench Thanks again for your videos. I have worked on a few bodies and realised my mistake. Any manipulation on the shutter requires the mirror box installed. So the bilb problem was on the KM without mirror box, but not on the k1000 and spotmatic (they work without it). And also the k1000 requires a mirror box to activate 1/1000. My problem was trying to make sure the shutter worked before installing mirror box.
Dear Sam, I have fully taken apart a Praktina FX (The first model). The timing mechanism uses a coil spring that got damaged on cleaning. I have tried 3d-printing an axis/face-plate that holds the coil so that it doesn't move in the z direction on tension. I would really like to find a replacement for it. Not having a manual or understanding it I didn't understand that the entire curtain timing mechanism stems from the curtain tension. Simply put: I done fckd up. Perhaps you could help me with this since you are, proven, a repair master. As for now I am conserving the body and mechanisms but are basically only parts. I feel sorry for this beautiful camera. Looking back on it, the only thing wrong with it was some dirt and the slackened tension on the curtain tension. Hindsight. So A: If I have been able to make myself clear about what went wrong, is this recoverable? B: What can you suggest me to do, if you pretty please? Highest regards, Mac
Literally amazing video😊. Recently, i'm trying to learn how to repair the old pentax cameras as a personal hobby . Could you make the tutorial video that introduce the basic tools you use while repairing the cameras?. That would be really helpful to someone like me :).
Thanks, glad you like them! I'll try to put together a workbench tour in the future where I talk about all the tools I use. Until then, you can find a list of supplies in the description of the video.
Hey Sam, I'm repairing my camera. After I put the pallet rod back during operation at no point does it push the pallet off the star wheel. Could you be more specific in what exactly the top 2 hooks interface with?
The top top hook is the one that controls when the pallet gets pushed away. The end of it should rest on the side of a cam just beneath the shutter dial plate (the piece with the screw holes). It's easy to install the shutter dial plate so that the cam sits on top of the hook instead of alongside it. That's my guess as to what happened. The second lower hook is part of the curtain braking system. It should extend in between the curtain wind gears, sitting just above the second curtain wind gear. When the closing curtain completes it's travel across the frame, a pin on the wind gear strikes this hook. The spring action in the pallet assembly acts as a break. This also means that the pallet will only engage with the star wheel when the camera is wound, because it releases the break. Let me know if this helps or not.
Hi, i didnt mark underneath curtain gear sync so I put it back as I assume it was but not sure. With the assembly at the stage of the end of this video slow speeds work but after 1second speed I dont have bulb and it goes full speed I think. Do you have any tip for what I should look for?
The issue with bulb not working sounds unrelated to the curtain timing. Probably something wrong with the bulb latch. To check the timing of that gear, fire the shutter in bulb mode but hold the closing curtain open. Look at the camera chassis at the leading edge of the curtain. There is usually a scribe mark from the factory indicating where the closing curtain starts. The edge of the curtain should be right at the scribe mark. If there's no mark, I think the distance to the edge of the frame is supposed to be like 6.4 mm. Good luck!
@@SamsCameraBench oh thanks, i can see the mark! at what point of dissasembly must I adjust the gear i assume is the little curtain one on the top when the lens mount is facing you but when rotating it opens that curtain under no tension and I can't see the mark because of not being able to cock and shot the mechanism when being that dissasembleld.
You can install the curtain/bulb latch while you are setting the timing on the gear. Once you set it, wind the gear until the latch catches it. That's where it will sit during a bulb exposure. Adjust until it sits on the line.
@@SamsCameraBench that was very helpful thank you so much. At the moment curtains are working good but when testing teh fire sequence it fires when pressing the transport latch pin and im not sure about the cause, did that happened to you? For some reason it gets pinched a bit under the gear. Not sure if thats direct cause but starts happening with the brake lever and the assembly under the oiling thing. In the manual they say maybe I need to replace the ratchet lever on the transport gear but I dont think its damaged. Thanks!
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Just FYI, I did over oil the pivots of the slow speed governor in this video. You really only need the tiniest amount. I would recommend looking up some watchmaking videos for better examples of how to properly oil a pivot.
Sam you are a total hero!!! This video is the one I’ve been waiting for. Thank you so much for doing these!
I don't have the dexterity or patience to attempt this, but watched it all in amazement, will be watching the rest of the series.
The way how you explain this is very clear. Really an amazing video
This has been a fantastic series, Sam!
I recently pulled my K1000 out of the closet to take pictures of the eclipse, and found my light meter acting erratically. As I changed the shutter speed settings, no (or very little) movement of the needle, regardless of the amount of light. But as I clicked through the settings, I would periodically hit one that caused the needle to peg at the upper end and stay there, again regardless of the amount of light.
I’ve been watching videos to see if there was anything I could try to fix it, and so far your videos have been the best source of useful information.
Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Thanks much. It sounds like maybe the variable resistors around the shutter speed dial or the aperture could be dirty. I'll be doing a video on the meter circuit in a couple weeks where I dive into those parts. Hopefully you can find something to help you sort out your camera.
@@SamsCameraBench I’ll keep my eyes peeled for it!
Hi Sam! I really appreciate how thorough you are. Is there a way that I can send you my Pentax K1000 to get it serviced?
Sorry, I'm only working on personal projects right now. If you let me know what part of the world you're in, I might be able to recommend a good repair service.
@@SamsCameraBench I understand. I'm in Florida, USA
I would contact Eric Henderson at pentaxs.com. Best of luck.
I was going to ask the same question, glad I read the comments before I did lol!
Would you happen to know anyone in the Southeast Illinois/Southwest Indiana area?
@@mrimmortal1579 Sorry, I don't. You have to be pretty lucky to have a camera repair shop in your town these days, haha. I think most people have to mail theirs in.
Great videos series! Would love to see a tutorial on how you would disassemble, clean, and adjust the shutter timing of the curtains if you get a chance. I have a difficult time getting the shutter speeds accurate across all speeds after fully cleaning and adjusting a camera with shutter problems.
Currently working on the last video for this camera where I adjust the shutter timing. Unfortunately, I also have some issues getting all the speeds within spec. So I'm not sure if I'll be able to provide any answers but at least some company in misery, haha.
Very informative, but also intimidating seeing all of those tiny parts, bushings, screws, etc. Think I'll attempt some of the more basic stuff on a parts camera before this! Could you just use a ultra fine tip sharpie to mark the position of the gears? Seems more accurate and less messy to clean off.
I would give the sharpie a try. Sometimes it wipes off too easy but it might work here.
@@SamsCameraBench Gotcha. Also, where do you get the foam scraping tools that you are using? They look like sturdy metal but blunt and polished so they don't scratch surfaces. I may start getting some tools to learn and attempt these repairs.
This becomes a great collectoin of builds! Could we expect a Pentax LX build?
I have repaired an LX but I want more experience with the camera before I make a video about it. It's a very complicated camera. I'll get to it someday.
Very nice series, definitely helping me get a leg up with understanding how the modular shutter components link together, and gives me a bit more confidence with my disassembly. I was always pretty hesitant to start removing linkages because I don't know the particular ins-and-outs of how the components interact - but I think I have a better idea now.
I have a question though - since you seem to have some watchmaker's experience to some degree. Is there any good or bad reason to add some slight lubricant to the star wheel and pallet/ratchet mechanism it engages on the slow speed mechanism? Most of the watchmakers I observe use a thin film to help with smoothing the escape, and reducing wear as the teeth and notch engage repeatedly.
I don't have any first hand experience with watchmaking (just watched some videos on youtube), but I do know what you're talking about. It's common practice to lubricate the contacting surfaces of the pallet fork. Unfortunately, I don't have any good insight for you. All I can say is that the service manual doesn't recommend it, but I don't know the reasoning. Good luck on your repairs!
Awesome informative video. Thank you for the detailed explanation!
I've done this procedure for repair, but not for regular CLA. your video is motivational to try it again.
However, in my case the camera was initially jammed. i could not understand why the bulb mode would not activate, the second curtain latch would not engage. the service manual suggests filing the latch, but i decided to gain more experience before doing so.
Hopefully some of the explanations in the video help you sort out your camera. If you have any specific questions, feel free to email me.
@@SamsCameraBench Thanks again for your videos. I have worked on a few bodies and realised my mistake. Any manipulation on the shutter requires the mirror box installed. So the bilb problem was on the KM without mirror box, but not on the k1000 and spotmatic (they work without it). And also the k1000 requires a mirror box to activate 1/1000. My problem was trying to make sure the shutter worked before installing mirror box.
Dear Sam, I have fully taken apart a Praktina FX (The first model).
The timing mechanism uses a coil spring that got damaged on cleaning.
I have tried 3d-printing an axis/face-plate that holds the coil so that it doesn't move in the z direction on tension.
I would really like to find a replacement for it.
Not having a manual or understanding it I didn't understand that the entire curtain timing mechanism stems from the curtain tension.
Simply put: I done fckd up.
Perhaps you could help me with this since you are, proven, a repair master.
As for now I am conserving the body and mechanisms but are basically only parts.
I feel sorry for this beautiful camera.
Looking back on it, the only thing wrong with it was some dirt and the slackened tension on the curtain tension.
Hindsight.
So A: If I have been able to make myself clear about what went wrong, is this recoverable?
B: What can you suggest me to do, if you pretty please?
Highest regards,
Mac
Literally amazing video😊.
Recently, i'm trying to learn how to repair the old pentax cameras as a personal hobby .
Could you make the tutorial video that introduce the basic tools you use while repairing the cameras?.
That would be really helpful to someone like me :).
Thanks, glad you like them! I'll try to put together a workbench tour in the future where I talk about all the tools I use. Until then, you can find a list of supplies in the description of the video.
On my K1000, I seem to have a "rubberized" shutter. In your video is looks like "cloth". The difference?
Hey Sam, I'm repairing my camera. After I put the pallet rod back during operation at no point does it push the pallet off the star wheel. Could you be more specific in what exactly the top 2 hooks interface with?
The top top hook is the one that controls when the pallet gets pushed away. The end of it should rest on the side of a cam just beneath the shutter dial plate (the piece with the screw holes). It's easy to install the shutter dial plate so that the cam sits on top of the hook instead of alongside it. That's my guess as to what happened.
The second lower hook is part of the curtain braking system. It should extend in between the curtain wind gears, sitting just above the second curtain wind gear. When the closing curtain completes it's travel across the frame, a pin on the wind gear strikes this hook. The spring action in the pallet assembly acts as a break. This also means that the pallet will only engage with the star wheel when the camera is wound, because it releases the break.
Let me know if this helps or not.
Hi, i didnt mark underneath curtain gear sync so I put it back as I assume it was but not sure. With the assembly at the stage of the end of this video slow speeds work but after 1second speed I dont have bulb and it goes full speed I think. Do you have any tip for what I should look for?
The issue with bulb not working sounds unrelated to the curtain timing. Probably something wrong with the bulb latch.
To check the timing of that gear, fire the shutter in bulb mode but hold the closing curtain open. Look at the camera chassis at the leading edge of the curtain. There is usually a scribe mark from the factory indicating where the closing curtain starts. The edge of the curtain should be right at the scribe mark. If there's no mark, I think the distance to the edge of the frame is supposed to be like 6.4 mm. Good luck!
@@SamsCameraBench oh thanks, i can see the mark! at what point of dissasembly must I adjust the gear i assume is the little curtain one on the top when the lens mount is facing you but when rotating it opens that curtain under no tension and I can't see the mark because of not being able to cock and shot the mechanism when being that dissasembleld.
You can install the curtain/bulb latch while you are setting the timing on the gear. Once you set it, wind the gear until the latch catches it. That's where it will sit during a bulb exposure. Adjust until it sits on the line.
@@SamsCameraBench that was very helpful thank you so much. At the moment curtains are working good but when testing teh fire sequence it fires when pressing the transport latch pin and im not sure about the cause, did that happened to you? For some reason it gets pinched a bit under the gear. Not sure if thats direct cause but starts happening with the brake lever and the assembly under the oiling thing. In the manual they say maybe I need to replace the ratchet lever on the transport gear but I dont think its damaged. Thanks!