To prevent breakout on the underside it says in the manual too that you can just use the drill bit on the flipside just to score the underside and it does work very well. I did a plywood version and with that technique I had no blowouts on the bottom side. Admittedly, it adds time to score the holes, but as you're just barely scraping it on that side you can freehand it, and progress quite fast.
Excellent and honest video that quickly explains the UJK system. I think you are the first person who has talked about tear out under the top, something I have always wondered. Really like your channel.
Thank you for your comment. The tear out under the table was mostly fixed with the same chamfer I applied on top. There were maybe 4 or 5 holes where the tear our ran a bit further. Regards JP
One way to help prevent bad tearout I did was ensure you set the collar on the drill just to the point where it just cuts the underside surface, helped on my plywood top.
Hi John great work, a very useful accessory. The old German 96mm centre set up you referred to is the industrial standard of 32mm between centre's times by three. 32mm centre's are still used today in modern manual and CNC mass production facilities. Enjoyed the video. Tony
Hi John, I have used my jig to make fences from some hard wood which I then cut with the track saw to square them up with it in the dog holes. This helps also justify the cost.
I have the Mark II kit, and find it very accurate, and over time has proven cost effective Pre drilled tops aren't readily available here in the States.
A clear description of how to use this system. I have built tops using both this system (although I made my own jigs, as I have a machine shop) and a CNC cut template. The latter is cheaper, faster, and more accurate (despite the claims, the multiple steps and incremental nature of the Parf method causes accumulative inaccuracies- as the manufacturers freely confirm). With a template, you just clamp it on top and use a trim router to duplicate the holes. If using MDF, accuracy is not actually crucial, since even the best MDF is only rated to a dimensional stability of 0.3% - which is 3mm over a metre length. Main cause is humidity, which can be local in nature (affects one part of the table) and does not fully return even when the humidity returns. Both my template and my table are made of 18mm Baltic ply, which is more stable and durable. I recommend it.
I got one for about 65 inc delivery last year and it came with 6 dogs, I cut it down a little to fit over my table saw in my shed. TBH not use the table saw since.
Everybody has their own way of working with their particular restrictions on space, noise or whatever. What suits A doesn’t suit B etc. I have a large table saw and so, an MFT is rarely used for cutting - but it is used to hold down pieces whilst I chisel, carve, rout or whatever. I had a “MFT” top made for me about 10 years ago. TBH, most holes remain unused. I don’t like the idea of a sacrificial top - just seems like wasting money. So, when I cut on the MFT, I raise everything up on 3mm or 6mm scrap. It does get the occasional ding and I turned it over - still going strong. If and when I do need to replace, I couldn’t justify buying a PARF guide system. I will just lay the old over a new piece of Medite. I think the quality of the MDF used on any worthwhile project is often overloooked. I won’t touch that compressed paper stuff from the sheds anymore. Cheap but there is a reason for that. Medite MRMDF is superb quality as is Finsa but I find Medite availability easier. It can still blow out underneath but, if drilled with reasonable care. Any blow out is resolved by a “countersink”. With the old under or over the Medite, I will then drill holes where I want holes - not all over - and use a new template router bit in that drilled hole to make accurate copies of the size and position. As I say, good for some but not for others.
When I would worked in timber sales we always stocked two of the three big brands. Kronospan, Caber and Medite - it depended on the commercial deal at the time. We then stocked a value brand. Usually imported from outside Europe. Like cardboard, as you say.
Medite is, indeed, quality MDF. But the specification lists a dimensional stability of 0.3%. That is 3mm per metre! This movement can happen during the life of the material, and is not even or consistent. If you are using it for clamping, this is all irrelevant- but for those using it for cutting alignment it is not...
@@Smallbarnworkshop Hi, and thanks- I have returned the favour... As I say in my other comment, I use Baltic ply. I was lucky enough to get two large sheets from a company closing down- it was their work table- very high quality ply.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop thanks for the information. I’ve never known Medite to move but it appears that’s a possibility. I was always told that the large amount of glue and the lack of a single grain direction in either plywood or mdf made movement so small as to be immaterial. Getting good quality plywood is very hard if not possible. One of our sons builds interiors for up market RV’s and his staple is so-called birch plywood. I saw the last lot he had in and it’s just awful - voids, uneven glue lines, lumps of glue. The supplier, a well known timber merchant, offered straight away to take it back but it appears that the quality at the moment is so variable
To prevent breakout on the underside it says in the manual too that you can just use the drill bit on the flipside just to score the underside and it does work very well. I did a plywood version and with that technique I had no blowouts on the bottom side. Admittedly, it adds time to score the holes, but as you're just barely scraping it on that side you can freehand it, and progress quite fast.
Hi. Thanks for sharing it’s a good idea 👍 Regards JP
Excellent and honest video that quickly explains the UJK system. I think you are the first person who has talked about tear out under the top, something I have always wondered. Really like your channel.
Thank you for your comment. The tear out under the table was mostly fixed with the same chamfer I applied on top. There were maybe 4 or 5 holes where the tear our ran a bit further. Regards JP
One way to help prevent bad tearout I did was ensure you set the collar on the drill just to the point where it just cuts the underside surface, helped on my plywood top.
Good tip Kenny. Thanks JP
Hi John great work, a very useful accessory. The old German 96mm centre set up you referred to is the industrial standard of 32mm between centre's times by three. 32mm centre's are still used today in modern manual and CNC mass production facilities. Enjoyed the video. Tony
Thanks Tony. And thanks for the extra info 👍 regards JP
apostrophe not needed, centres.....great video though, i have looked at a lot of Ax's products recently.
Hi John, I have used my jig to make fences from some hard wood which I then cut with the track saw to square them up with it in the dog holes. This helps also justify the cost.
Thanks Kenny. I am also working on a fence system for these. Probably will be my next video. Regards JP
I have the Mark II kit, and find it very accurate, and over time has proven cost effective
Pre drilled tops aren't readily available here in the States.
Hi Ed. I can buy them on line but the postage is expensive. I think I've got my monies worth. Regards JP
A clear description of how to use this system.
I have built tops using both this system (although I made my own jigs, as I have a machine shop) and a CNC cut template. The latter is cheaper, faster, and more accurate (despite the claims, the multiple steps and incremental nature of the Parf method causes accumulative inaccuracies- as the manufacturers freely confirm). With a template, you just clamp it on top and use a trim router to duplicate the holes. If using MDF, accuracy is not actually crucial, since even the best MDF is only rated to a dimensional stability of 0.3% - which is 3mm over a metre length. Main cause is humidity, which can be local in nature (affects one part of the table) and does not fully return even when the humidity returns.
Both my template and my table are made of 18mm Baltic ply, which is more stable and durable. I recommend it.
I didn’t consider the router option but was concerned about all the dust. I could make my own jig now
@@Smallbarnworkshop Yep, before you know it, you find yourself putting dog holes in everything!
Yeah it’s a good kit if you need to make a few tops, but I bought my new one from CNC Design in Wrexham for £45 inc delivery 👍.
Sounds a great price. 👍 Regards JP
They do sell a jig themselves for doing this exact thing.
I got one for about 65 inc delivery last year and it came with 6 dogs, I cut it down a little to fit over my table saw in my shed. TBH not use the table saw since.
Everybody has their own way of working with their particular restrictions on space, noise or whatever. What suits A doesn’t suit B etc. I have a large table saw and so, an MFT is rarely used for cutting - but it is used to hold down pieces whilst I chisel, carve, rout or whatever.
I had a “MFT” top made for me about 10 years ago. TBH, most holes remain unused. I don’t like the idea of a sacrificial top - just seems like wasting money. So, when I cut on the MFT, I raise everything up on 3mm or 6mm scrap. It does get the occasional ding and I turned it over - still going strong. If and when I do need to replace, I couldn’t justify buying a PARF guide system. I will just lay the old over a new piece of Medite.
I think the quality of the MDF used on any worthwhile project is often overloooked. I won’t touch that compressed paper stuff from the sheds anymore. Cheap but there is a reason for that. Medite MRMDF is superb quality as is Finsa but I find Medite availability easier. It can still blow out underneath but, if drilled with reasonable care. Any blow out is resolved by a “countersink”.
With the old under or over the Medite, I will then drill holes where I want holes - not all over - and use a new template router bit in that drilled hole to make accurate copies of the size and position.
As I say, good for some but not for others.
When I would worked in timber sales we always stocked two of the three big brands. Kronospan, Caber and Medite - it depended on the commercial deal at the time. We then stocked a value brand. Usually imported from outside Europe. Like cardboard, as you say.
Medite is, indeed, quality MDF. But the specification lists a dimensional stability of 0.3%. That is 3mm per metre! This movement can happen during the life of the material, and is not even or consistent. If you are using it for clamping, this is all irrelevant- but for those using it for cutting alignment it is not...
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Hi Mike. What do you use? I've just subbed your channel. Regards JP
@@Smallbarnworkshop Hi, and thanks- I have returned the favour... As I say in my other comment, I use Baltic ply. I was lucky enough to get two large sheets from a company closing down- it was their work table- very high quality ply.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop thanks for the information. I’ve never known Medite to move but it appears that’s a possibility. I was always told that the large amount of glue and the lack of a single grain direction in either plywood or mdf made movement so small as to be immaterial.
Getting good quality plywood is very hard if not possible. One of our sons builds interiors for up market RV’s and his staple is so-called birch plywood. I saw the last lot he had in and it’s just awful - voids, uneven glue lines, lumps of glue. The supplier, a well known timber merchant, offered straight away to take it back but it appears that the quality at the moment is so variable
Holes to sloppy for 19.90 dogs :/
seems tight enough for me :-)