are you saying a quick hum when you shut the car? yea.. its very brief.. took it to an installer, he said it will always happen with aftermarket subs.. the sound might be less noticeable if you go with a more expensive line out converter. or are you getting a constant humming?
The blue plastic things are butt connectors, they are used to connect two separate wires. Whoever did it must of ran out towards the end of the install because he went old school and used electrical tape on the last couple wires lol.
has been running fine for several months now.. ran for 4 hours continuous at a bachelor party last weekend in the mountains.. no issues whatsoever. what do you mean stop working? did it blow up? or if you disconnected the aftermarket stuff, the original would work again? if so it's a bad turn on wire.. happens, i'd hard wire it then if you used a similar LOC to mine.. as in hard wire it to another 12v pre factory amp.
I have the exact same equipment as you do and set it up as you did. The LOC powers on so long as the remote wire is not plugged in. If I plug it into the amp and start the car, the amp nor the LOC power on.. If I unplug the remote wire and power on the car and then plug the remote wire in, then both work... Any idea what it could be? Thanks!
I found a workaround. I connected a cable from the brown/peach colored cable that's located on the OTHER bundle of wires that also connects to the factory amp. I think it's the one closest to the taillight. The other end plugs into the REM input of the amplifier. This powers on the amp only when the car is powered on.
@@DeepFriedFrog516hey sorry a bit late responding to this. So I actually started having an issue sort of like this after running this setup for a few months. But mine was with the ground. Essentially everything would freeze up and not work unless i disconnected the amp ground, powered off the car, then powered on the car and connected the amp ground while everything was on. Super not safe. So I went to an installer and they essentially said it’s the cheap LOC. I’ve yet to update this video about this. I re-ran the remote turn on from the LOC to a 12v pre-amp oem and then ran that to the aftermarket amp. Works fine. Zero issues. So essentially it’s a shitty LOC. the installer I talked to recommended the LC2i pro which is pricier. Will use my setup for now since it works well
I show it in my video.. but basically the line out converter i bought gets power signal from the speaker wire you tap into, so you run the remote wire from the LOC to your amp direct.. that's why i like that particular Kicker LOC with the remote wire so much for this install
Did you get annoying hum through the subwoofer after installing the new amp. How did you bypass the ANC? Thanks for the video
are you saying a quick hum when you shut the car? yea.. its very brief.. took it to an installer, he said it will always happen with aftermarket subs.. the sound might be less noticeable if you go with a more expensive line out converter. or are you getting a constant humming?
The blue plastic things are butt connectors, they are used to connect two separate wires. Whoever did it must of ran out towards the end of the install because he went old school and used electrical tape on the last couple wires lol.
Nope comes like that from the factory.
Can the amp blow doing this method? With signal coming from
RCA cable ? Did this on my 2014 is 350 after 1hr factory amp stopped working
has been running fine for several months now.. ran for 4 hours continuous at a bachelor party last weekend in the mountains.. no issues whatsoever. what do you mean stop working? did it blow up? or if you disconnected the aftermarket stuff, the original would work again? if so it's a bad turn on wire.. happens, i'd hard wire it then if you used a similar LOC to mine.. as in hard wire it to another 12v pre factory amp.
I have the exact same equipment as you do and set it up as you did. The LOC powers on so long as the remote wire is not plugged in. If I plug it into the amp and start the car, the amp nor the LOC power on..
If I unplug the remote wire and power on the car and then plug the remote wire in, then both work...
Any idea what it could be?
Thanks!
I found a workaround. I connected a cable from the brown/peach colored cable that's located on the OTHER bundle of wires that also connects to the factory amp. I think it's the one closest to the taillight.
The other end plugs into the REM input of the amplifier. This powers on the amp only when the car is powered on.
@@DeepFriedFrog516hey sorry a bit late responding to this. So I actually started having an issue sort of like this after running this setup for a few months. But mine was with the ground. Essentially everything would freeze up and not work unless i disconnected the amp ground, powered off the car, then powered on the car and connected the amp ground while everything was on. Super not safe. So I went to an installer and they essentially said it’s the cheap LOC. I’ve yet to update this video about this. I re-ran the remote turn on from the LOC to a 12v pre-amp oem and then ran that to the aftermarket amp. Works fine. Zero issues. So essentially it’s a shitty LOC. the installer I talked to recommended the LC2i pro which is pricier. Will use my setup for now since it works well
Where did you ground the amp?
Did you use an existing ground or give it its own?
There’s a 10m nut that’s holding the OEM amp to the chassis. I ran the ground from the amp and also the ground wire from the LOC to there.
@MrUaoleksiy25 thanks man! 👍🏽
Where did you run the remote wire from?
I show it in my video.. but basically the line out converter i bought gets power signal from the speaker wire you tap into, so you run the remote wire from the LOC to your amp direct.. that's why i like that particular Kicker LOC with the remote wire so much for this install
Thank you!