Unbelievable! I thought at least 2 of these boards would be write-offs for the parts pile. Thanks for sharing. It's very enjoyable to watch someone so good at their craft.
Your videos are always a comfy watch. Years ago in the early 00's my late father and I threw away a mountain of old computer gear from the 90s. Only later in life did I regret that decision as I now have such nostalgia for computer hardware and games of that era and I love fixing things. Keep up the great content, You have inspired me to finally get into board level repairs. I'll try to use your affiliate links as a thanks.
Sorry, but i have ONLY COMPLIMENTS FOR YOU. If you lost followers or viewers (this people doesn't know what is good). Excellent work. AS ALWAYS. Keep doing what you do. You show in all the videos more than a repair, is the love for the good work repairing this motherboards in this case, but i follow you for a while, and is constant, not only for this serie. GREAT WORK. (My like and i am already subscribed)
2:10 Did you notice the "K" before the Ohm? This is everything but a low ESR ;-) BTW the Atten is a good rework station! Bought it a year ago to replace my old cheap one.
I did not notice it :) Someone else mentioned it. I guess I completely ignored the unit... Of course, this is not low ESR :) I like the Atten - I used it to get some connectors off those donor boards, but I also like to try my luck with the chipset on them. BGA rework is something I want to get good at.
@@bitsundbolts BGA rework can be quite satisfying or mood-destroying. I practiced on some old routers and graphic cards. Worked quite well. Later on i tried fixing a 430HX board (GA586DX) - which unfortunately didn't work out. I also had to repair some ripped pads and use soldermask. Can't figure out why, maybe something else is fishy with this board. My last project was reviving a AM4 motherboard where the X570-chipset was dead. This on the other hand worked like a charm and gave me great confidence in my work again. It's a hit-and-miss sometimes, but practice helps a lot!
Awww, sad about the declining views, this was a series I truly enjoyed watching and nice to see my vote / guess was correct. I went with all 6 six repaired for your poll at the start of this series.
I didn’t comment on the previous video when you changed the capacitors and most were ok. Imho, it is worth replacing if you value the component. Here is why: you know don’t when it going to fail: it can leak and eat away components beyond repair (this video just demonstrated the potential damage), they can fail and cause electrical damage to other components, etc. They might be ok today, but for how long? A recapped board with good quality components will last another 20 years. Congratulations on the series, I loved it. PS: I checked my Soyo board, didn’t find any loose power elements (mosfets). I hoped it was the case. Back to storage waiting for a new inspiration / idea
Yes, you're right. There will be a time where those caps are going to fail. It is still remarkable that the caps on those boards seem to be ok for now. But who knows for how long. Could be a couple of years, but I have a feeling that they'll be fine for much longer considering that those boards probably won't be used for long periods of time.
It seems to me the P2B user is able to upgrade up to Celeron 1400 tualatin not Pentium III because the mobo supports 100 Mhz not 133 frontside. This is very good, meanwhile not comparable to P4 and so far it can be a perspective and a free maneuver. Thank you so much, awesome video
Removing the 20 pin PSU connector you probably could have a spare mating half plugged in to aid removal, although in this case it seemed to come out OK. I have loved watching your revival of these boards.
Haha, yes! I totally missed that it was KILO ohms! And I know why you need that engraving pen! You liked how it flipped those SMD capacitors off the board, didn't you????
@@bitsundbolts that was cool but no, I just like how nicely you can polish traces without polish the whole area. The rubber thing I have is great and probably gentler but it takes away chunks of solder mask
Congrats on this great achievment. Repaired and even upgraded. Considering the initial state of the motherboards, that is just awesome and really great work. And I really like the series, could have been more then 6 boards... 😁😁
@BitUndBolts I was happy with each one of these P2B videos. Very cool stuff. But I'm a bit different and eccentric.. EDIT: BTW, again, very well done!! Looking forward to see what you do with a few of those boards!
I think I still have same board in my PBX "PC" running trixbox (asterisk based PBX distributive). It still is running 24/7 for over 15 years at least. (Yeah, it was used for another 10 years at least before being installed into my PBX PC. I did replace power supply unit though, like 3 years ago. Or even more. Maybe before COVID.😅 That's the hardware! I'm sure it would run for another decade easily.
That board uses those bad blue no name caps like the one that exploded and not that light green Sanyo ones you replaced at the previous board. Consider putting the Sanyo ones you removed to this board cause maybe another blue one may release its guts in the near future Great work again! Cheers and I saw all videos...
I liked this series watched it from day 1. See if you can get a bunch of fubar socket 370's now and make those work. Go up an era because that too would be interesting. Well done on making all 6 work.
I will go tomorrow to the scrapyard and try to get some Coppermine and Tualatin CPUs. Who knows what I'll find. But I'm at the lookout for 100 MHz FSB CPUs
Amazing job, congratulations! Initially looking at these boards, I would have expected at least one of them to have lost an irreplaceable component that would have relegated it to become a donor board for some of the others. Fortes fortuna adiuvat! However, your final boss still awaits... 😄😉 Doing a bit of "research", I only recently discovered that there was a version of this board supporting dual CPUs and containing an onboard SCSI controller, the P2B-DS. The thought of dual CPUs really appealed to me back in the day, starting with the Tyan Tomcat IV. Being that far ahead of their time, Multi-Core setups wouldn't have been much use for gaming and therefore just an expensive disappointment though I suppose.
Thank you! I have to start looking into the dual slot CPU I pulled from a pile of boards a few months ago. I never had an encounter with tech like this back in the day.
@@bitsundbolts Oh, did you feature such a board among your scrapyard finds? In that case, I must be getting old. 😅 As they were purely business oriented products, I didn't directly come into contact with them either, but I remember seeing them in catalogues and fantasizing about their performance. It would be quite interesting to see how well dual CPU setups worked back in the day and what software could actually make use of them. If only as a confirmation that, contrary to my younger self's hopes, they would have been absolutely useless for gaming and not straight up twice as fast. 😄
Yeah this is why I believe in replacing 30 year old capacitors even if they are still good. Because if they go bad it requires more work to fix. It's a preventative maintenance thing.
I get your point! This wasn't fun to clean up. Especially that it can be prevented. But I find it odd that this was the only capacitor that leaked. Every other capacitor on this board and the other five boards was ok.
wow! 6 nice motherboards that get a second live! Thank you so much for another wonderful video. Your fixing skills have reached legendary level now :) By the way can you please post the name of that component tester you used on the capacitor? I would like to get one too ... there are so many out there I am afraid to get a bad quality one
I will post the link later, I hope I won't forget. I also got a bad one with a poor LCD display. I don't know why because all of them look the same. It's still kind of trial and error I fear. I'll put a link in the video description in a couple of hours. Thank you for watching!
I watched all 6 restored board videos. Love the content. I'd like to have one , but I'm sure shipping would cost more than the board is worth shipped to Ohio USA
Shipping cost is the main deterrent of me shipping things around. It cost about 25 USD to ship to USA, but I might find a solution to this given enough time.
WHat stands out to me is that one capacitor could have been hit with something corrosive which made it balloon like that. I have a Macintosh SE that still worked despite a battery going nuclear on the board, and the main takeaway with that machine was that it had chemicon axial caps that were ballooned and deformed so badly I could barely tell their values. This was more likely due to corrosion hitting that spot and wicking up into the capacitor and reacting with the electrolyte etc with age and time.
I never saw a capacitor that had something like those boils. Maybe you are right. All the other boards also looked like something corrosive dropped on them.
That bridge is actually also on the board. There are two differently spec'd capacitors, one in the low pF and one with uF. If I am not mistaken, they filter different frequencies.
No... It's unfortunately my fume extractor 😔. It's on the desk right next to the board and one of the rubber legs touches the wooden work board. That is why the vibration is there and makes the video look like that. Unfortunately, I noticed it too late
I believe "the ASUS chip" might be responsible for hardware monitoring of temperatures and voltages, so you'd better check that part is working, before declaring the motherboard fixed. Also if that's the case, it is most likely the motherboard would still POST and work with the ASUS chip removed entirely.
All boards report voltages and the motherboard temperature correctly in the BIOS hardware monitor. Of course, I could have missed something like the additional connectors for measuring additional temperatures (I don't have the original temperature probe), but chances are low since the other values are there.
Yes, but I had two or three other boards that just needed a bit of contact cleaner in the CPU slot. I learned from those and prepared properly this time. And it worked - first try! :)
These boards were professional, they were repaired as in the service center, but the faults were not difficult to repair, it would be difficult to repair if one of the bridges collapsed and the BGA would have to be replaced.
I agree - it was only physical damage. I want to practice more on BGA replacement - using a hot air station only. I don't have space for a BGA rework station - so, I need to master that craft with basic equipment.
It is an engraving pen. The bit rotates and can easily take away the solder mask on the surface. There is an affiliate link to such a tool in the video description.
Could you make the music a bit quieter going forward? I have to drop the volume 2/3 each time music starts playing. Great videos by the way, I have noticed a quality improvement as of late.
Very nice series, was a blast to see you repair all these boards! One thing I am wondering tho: Why didn't you use vinnegar to combat the corrosion caused by the leaked capacitor? I saw it giving very good results, and I bet it would be faster than doing it with the engraving pen :D
Ah it might not be obvious in the video, but I did use vinegar. It helps take debris away when using the engraving pen. Vinegar alone will probably not be enough. I remove discolored solder mask to make sure there's no corrosion left.
I am not entirely certain, but I believe I would have to mod an adapter card to get Tualatin CPUs working on slot 1. Maybe something I'll try to do in the future.
I wonder why that last board has different colour peripheral connectors? Maybe a later revision, or they just ran out of black ones? Or what if it's a fake! 🤣
Haha, no - I put those on there. I only have pink and blue spare parts. I could have changed the black one serial connector too, but it wasn't worth the effort.
@@bitsundbolts I had to go back and look at the start again, It didn't click in my brain until you stacked them at the end. They were black and then they were coloured I should've spotted that you had swapped them! Great restoration series BuB, so glad that these excellent boards will rejoin the global circuit again.
Your training is now complete, you have unlocked the ability to craft a Slot 1 motherboard from scratch. [6/6 Motherboards Completed!]
Hahaha :) Games like Oblivion and Skyrim come to mind...
Yay, what an epic series! I learned a few amazing techniques from you in this series! I really loved watching every episode!
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@bitsundbolts Keep doing what you're doing - a joy to watch!
Unbelievable! I thought at least 2 of these boards would be write-offs for the parts pile. Thanks for sharing. It's very enjoyable to watch someone so good at their craft.
Thank you so much for your kind words!
You pleasantly exceeded my expectations. It always pleases me to see broken vintage hardware restored.
Man you have done some goodness for the community. These are good boards for retro builds and can make several people happy!
I can watch your repair videos all day.
Your videos are always a comfy watch. Years ago in the early 00's my late father and I threw away a mountain of old computer gear from the 90s. Only later in life did I regret that decision as I now have such nostalgia for computer hardware and games of that era and I love fixing things.
Keep up the great content, You have inspired me to finally get into board level repairs. I'll try to use your affiliate links as a thanks.
I wish you all the best and I am happy that you might have found a new passion! And thank you for your support!
Sorry, but i have ONLY COMPLIMENTS FOR YOU.
If you lost followers or viewers (this people doesn't know what is good). Excellent work. AS ALWAYS.
Keep doing what you do. You show in all the videos more than a repair, is the love for the good work repairing this motherboards in this case, but i follow you for a while, and is constant, not only for this serie.
GREAT WORK. (My like and i am already subscribed)
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'll try to continue and even improve to make content like this!
i am happy and sad at the same time. I am happy you got all of them working but i am sad because the series is over 😢
I am sure, there will be more connected content to come :) I have a few other interesting pieces of retro hardware to show!
@@bitsundbolts looking forward to them!
2:10 Did you notice the "K" before the Ohm? This is everything but a low ESR ;-)
BTW the Atten is a good rework station! Bought it a year ago to replace my old cheap one.
I did not notice it :) Someone else mentioned it. I guess I completely ignored the unit... Of course, this is not low ESR :) I like the Atten - I used it to get some connectors off those donor boards, but I also like to try my luck with the chipset on them. BGA rework is something I want to get good at.
@@bitsundbolts BGA rework can be quite satisfying or mood-destroying. I practiced on some old routers and graphic cards. Worked quite well. Later on i tried fixing a 430HX board (GA586DX) - which unfortunately didn't work out. I also had to repair some ripped pads and use soldermask. Can't figure out why, maybe something else is fishy with this board.
My last project was reviving a AM4 motherboard where the X570-chipset was dead. This on the other hand worked like a charm and gave me great confidence in my work again.
It's a hit-and-miss sometimes, but practice helps a lot!
And here it is, you did it, 6/6! You even got one to POST first try! x)
A great finale and tribute to those great boards.
Fantastic series. You really show us how it's done properly. I watch all parts and looked forward to each one. Thank you very much
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the videos!
Great Job! Nice to see more vintage hardware saved from the scrap pile.Thank you for the Videos.
Great job with the P2B Resurrection made sixfold!
Awww, sad about the declining views, this was a series I truly enjoyed watching and nice to see my vote / guess was correct.
I went with all 6 six repaired for your poll at the start of this series.
I've really enjoyed this series. Having 6 working boards is a great accomplishment as far as I'm concerned! Looking forward to whatever comes next. :)
Thank you!
I didn’t comment on the previous video when you changed the capacitors and most were ok. Imho, it is worth replacing if you value the component. Here is why: you know don’t when it going to fail: it can leak and eat away components beyond repair (this video just demonstrated the potential damage), they can fail and cause electrical damage to other components, etc. They might be ok today, but for how long? A recapped board with good quality components will last another 20 years. Congratulations on the series, I loved it. PS: I checked my Soyo board, didn’t find any loose power elements (mosfets). I hoped it was the case. Back to storage waiting for a new inspiration / idea
Yes, you're right. There will be a time where those caps are going to fail. It is still remarkable that the caps on those boards seem to be ok for now. But who knows for how long. Could be a couple of years, but I have a feeling that they'll be fine for much longer considering that those boards probably won't be used for long periods of time.
That was a cool series. It's amazing that you were able to fix them all
It seems to me the P2B user is able to upgrade up to Celeron 1400 tualatin not Pentium III because the mobo supports 100 Mhz not 133 frontside. This is very good, meanwhile not comparable to P4 and so far it can be a perspective and a free maneuver. Thank you so much, awesome video
Good working with this motherboard series. I learnt some tips to restore.
Any content is welcome !
Ending it out with the best NFS no less, 6 out of 6.
Removing the 20 pin PSU connector you probably could have a spare mating half plugged in to aid removal, although in this case it seemed to come out OK.
I have loved watching your revival of these boards.
ESR on the first cap is 0.15 KILO ohm! 150 Ohm - that cap is gone! I need an engraving pen :)
Haha, yes! I totally missed that it was KILO ohms! And I know why you need that engraving pen! You liked how it flipped those SMD capacitors off the board, didn't you????
@@bitsundbolts that was cool but no, I just like how nicely you can polish traces without polish the whole area. The rubber thing I have is great and probably gentler but it takes away chunks of solder mask
Congrats on this great achievment. Repaired and even upgraded. Considering the initial state of the motherboards, that is just awesome and really great work. And I really like the series, could have been more then 6 boards... 😁😁
Sorry to hear about the declining views, I DID watch them all.
The declining views aren't a big issue. But I am glad the journey is over and the project is complete. Thanks for watching!
I was waiting for a pizza and just as the board posted my timer went off. perfect timing
Haha, nice!
@BitUndBolts
I was happy with each one of these P2B videos. Very cool stuff. But I'm a bit different and eccentric.. EDIT: BTW, again, very well done!! Looking forward to see what you do with a few of those boards!
Thank you!
Great series of repairs and very watchable.
Thank you!
I think I still have same board in my PBX "PC" running trixbox (asterisk based PBX distributive). It still is running 24/7 for over 15 years at least. (Yeah, it was used for another 10 years at least before being installed into my PBX PC.
I did replace power supply unit though, like 3 years ago. Or even more. Maybe before COVID.😅
That's the hardware! I'm sure it would run for another decade easily.
That board uses those bad blue no name caps like the one that exploded and not that light green Sanyo ones you replaced at the previous board. Consider putting the Sanyo ones you removed to this board cause maybe another blue one may release its guts in the near future
Great work again! Cheers and I saw all videos...
Wow! Making it through all six videos is quite the achievement ☺️. There should be a badge for this!
Thank you.
Amazing stuff! My Slot1 computer is Abit BE6-II with slocket adapter from Power Leap. Running Pentium III-S 1.4GHz. I am original owner of those :)
Nice! I assume you had to modify the slocket adapter to make Tualatin work on this board, or am I wrong?
Congrat Sir You Just A Pro Repair
Ah, I wish :) But I am happy you think so! Thank you!
I've really enjoyed this whole series and learned a few things along the way. Thanks very much for putting it together!
Glad you enjoyed it and thank you!
Loved the series :-)
Masz fach w ręku 👏
Fantastic! I loved this series and am glad you were able to restore all 6. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
you left the best for last, BuB, awesome repair as usual. since you've put so much work into them, hope you've sold them all
I think each board will find a new home - messages are coming in. Thank you for watching!
@@bitsundbolts thank you, too!
I liked this series watched it from day 1. See if you can get a bunch of fubar socket 370's now and make those work. Go up an era because that too would be interesting. Well done on making all 6 work.
I will go tomorrow to the scrapyard and try to get some Coppermine and Tualatin CPUs. Who knows what I'll find. But I'm at the lookout for 100 MHz FSB CPUs
@@bitsundbolts Awesome yes I liked the old "Flip chips" some of my fondest memories.
@@bitsundbolts I wouldn't mind seeing the mod to get a Tualatin to work on an older board. Hint, hint, but also no pressure.
Amazing job, congratulations! Initially looking at these boards, I would have expected at least one of them to have lost an irreplaceable component that would have relegated it to become a donor board for some of the others. Fortes fortuna adiuvat! However, your final boss still awaits... 😄😉
Doing a bit of "research", I only recently discovered that there was a version of this board supporting dual CPUs and containing an onboard SCSI controller, the P2B-DS. The thought of dual CPUs really appealed to me back in the day, starting with the Tyan Tomcat IV. Being that far ahead of their time, Multi-Core setups wouldn't have been much use for gaming and therefore just an expensive disappointment though I suppose.
Thank you! I have to start looking into the dual slot CPU I pulled from a pile of boards a few months ago. I never had an encounter with tech like this back in the day.
@@bitsundbolts Oh, did you feature such a board among your scrapyard finds? In that case, I must be getting old. 😅 As they were purely business oriented products, I didn't directly come into contact with them either, but I remember seeing them in catalogues and fantasizing about their performance. It would be quite interesting to see how well dual CPU setups worked back in the day and what software could actually make use of them. If only as a confirmation that, contrary to my younger self's hopes, they would have been absolutely useless for gaming and not straight up twice as fast. 😄
Yeah this is why I believe in replacing 30 year old capacitors even if they are still good. Because if they go bad it requires more work to fix. It's a preventative maintenance thing.
I get your point! This wasn't fun to clean up. Especially that it can be prevented. But I find it odd that this was the only capacitor that leaked. Every other capacitor on this board and the other five boards was ok.
wow! 6 nice motherboards that get a second live! Thank you so much for another wonderful video. Your fixing skills have reached legendary level now :)
By the way can you please post the name of that component tester you used on the capacitor? I would like to get one too ... there are so many out there I am afraid to get a bad quality one
I will post the link later, I hope I won't forget. I also got a bad one with a poor LCD display. I don't know why because all of them look the same. It's still kind of trial and error I fear. I'll put a link in the video description in a couple of hours. Thank you for watching!
It was worse than I thought when I first saw it, but still. I think success was all but certain after #2. Very impressive repairathon.
Thanks! I should have finished with board #2 ;)
I watched all 6 restored board videos. Love the content. I'd like to have one , but I'm sure shipping would cost more than the board is worth shipped to Ohio USA
Shipping cost is the main deterrent of me shipping things around. It cost about 25 USD to ship to USA, but I might find a solution to this given enough time.
I sent you an email
WHat stands out to me is that one capacitor could have been hit with something corrosive which made it balloon like that. I have a Macintosh SE that still worked despite a battery going nuclear on the board, and the main takeaway with that machine was that it had chemicon axial caps that were ballooned and deformed so badly I could barely tell their values. This was more likely due to corrosion hitting that spot and wicking up into the capacitor and reacting with the electrolyte etc with age and time.
I never saw a capacitor that had something like those boils. Maybe you are right. All the other boards also looked like something corrosive dropped on them.
How the views are dropping? I watched all of them!
Haha, it got a bit repetitive maybe! But good to hear that I can count on viewers like you! Thanks!
Great job!
Thanks!
Fireworks! :-)
10:58 I see a solder bridge at 7:55 on the two caps on the bottom right. I guess that didn't affect anything?
That bridge is actually also on the board. There are two differently spec'd capacitors, one in the low pF and one with uF. If I am not mistaken, they filter different frequencies.
@@bitsundbolts Interesting. Didn't know that.
10:25 i wonder what made the video wobbly like that. Is that an anti rolling shutter filter or something like that?
No... It's unfortunately my fume extractor 😔. It's on the desk right next to the board and one of the rubber legs touches the wooden work board. That is why the vibration is there and makes the video look like that. Unfortunately, I noticed it too late
I really enjoyed watching this series of repairs. .thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Comment number 3! The half of 6... That must be something special!
I believe "the ASUS chip" might be responsible for hardware monitoring of temperatures and voltages, so you'd better check that part is working, before declaring the motherboard fixed. Also if that's the case, it is most likely the motherboard would still POST and work with the ASUS chip removed entirely.
All boards report voltages and the motherboard temperature correctly in the BIOS hardware monitor. Of course, I could have missed something like the additional connectors for measuring additional temperatures (I don't have the original temperature probe), but chances are low since the other values are there.
Was this the only one that worked first try?
Yes, but I had two or three other boards that just needed a bit of contact cleaner in the CPU slot. I learned from those and prepared properly this time. And it worked - first try! :)
@@bitsundbolts true.
These boards were professional, they were repaired as in the service center, but the faults were not difficult to repair, it would be difficult to repair if one of the bridges collapsed and the BGA would have to be replaced.
I agree - it was only physical damage. I want to practice more on BGA replacement - using a hot air station only. I don't have space for a BGA rework station - so, I need to master that craft with basic equipment.
3:15 What is this tool?
It is an engraving pen. The bit rotates and can easily take away the solder mask on the surface. There is an affiliate link to such a tool in the video description.
This 0.15 kꭥ ESR (=150 ꭥ) is not a low value.
I did not see that! You are absolutely correct.
Was about to write that :D
BuB - well done! Your videos are very relaxing, thank you for your job :)
Thank you very much!
Could you make the music a bit quieter going forward? I have to drop the volume 2/3 each time music starts playing. Great videos by the way, I have noticed a quality improvement as of late.
Will try to improve! Thanks 👍
Very nice series, was a blast to see you repair all these boards! One thing I am wondering tho: Why didn't you use vinnegar to combat the corrosion caused by the leaked capacitor? I saw it giving very good results, and I bet it would be faster than doing it with the engraving pen :D
Ah it might not be obvious in the video, but I did use vinegar. It helps take debris away when using the engraving pen. Vinegar alone will probably not be enough. I remove discolored solder mask to make sure there's no corrosion left.
Run 1.2GHz Tualatin Celeron then?
I am not entirely certain, but I believe I would have to mod an adapter card to get Tualatin CPUs working on slot 1. Maybe something I'll try to do in the future.
I wonder why that last board has different colour peripheral connectors? Maybe a later revision, or they just ran out of black ones? Or what if it's a fake! 🤣
Haha, no - I put those on there. I only have pink and blue spare parts. I could have changed the black one serial connector too, but it wasn't worth the effort.
@@bitsundbolts I had to go back and look at the start again, It didn't click in my brain until you stacked them at the end. They were black and then they were coloured I should've spotted that you had swapped them! Great restoration series BuB, so glad that these excellent boards will rejoin the global circuit again.
Congratz
Thank you!